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Chrysler 300: Problems & Solutions
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Drive carefully!!!
Anyway, it is working fine now. I guess I shouldn't complain. It was fixed the first time. I suppose some confusion with a new model should be expected.
My 300C has a slight right pull, but I prefer that to torque steer on FWD cars. The bulk of the time it's straight.
Sometimes you have to remind yourself that the 300C is not a $50,000 car. It just looks and feels like one. I wouldn't trade it for anything else in its price range. What else looks this good and boasts a HEMI to boot?!
Bebe, I did a search on the nhtsa for " Chrysler pulling" and Chrysler drifting" and Chrysler crown sensitivity" but did not see anything from previous models. Got a link to an actual article from the site?
Hardly noticeable...certainly nothing to worry about.
As far as loping idle...I have been told that the car will sometimes go to 4 cyl mode at idle (not confirmed)...perhaps this could be the colprit (4 cyls moving engine mass of 8 cyls at very low RPM of 600)
1. Shoulder belt bolts
2. Battery cable fasteners --> may explain the non-starting issue #15. (However the car now starts everytime)
NB: Car still pulls to the right - will ask Chrysler about it when the car goes in for the first servicing and recalls.
1. Shoulder belt bolts
2. Battery cable fasteners --> may explain the non-starting issue #15. (However the car now starts everytime)
NB: Car still pulls to the right - will ask Chrysler about it when the car goes in for the first servicing and recalls.
What should I do? Should I demand a new bumper from the dealership??
What car have you owned that doesnt use screws to hold the bracket in place?
nvbanker- I dont know how many states only issue a rear plate, Oklahoma is one of them and I understand that Texas may go to one plate(if they havent done already).
i was just hoping for some ideas of how to bring this up to the dealership. i understand that a front plate is required by the state of california, but do not like the look of a front plate. i have run all my vehicles with this removed and have only once came across a cop that didn't car for my redecorating ideas on the front end.
I just wanted to comment on all of the posts in this forum. With all first year vehicles, there are bound to be problems. I know it's a crude assessment, but consider yourselves guinea pigs. If anyone has any concerns about DCX not fixing these issues, you are wrong. Why are they buying customers' vehicles back then? To analyze them. These vehicles will most likely get sent to DCX's warranty evaluation center in Auburn Hills and get torn down for analysis. Also, during a new product launch, DCX Engineering forces all dealer's to return parts removed for warranty work. If the dealer doesn't comply, they don't get paid for by DCX.
On a more sour note. I recently had a discussion with an ex-DCX Supplier Quality Engineer, now working in warranty analysis, and he said that the LX (300/Magnum) launch was one of the worst in DCX's history. Not a comforting tidbit of information, but they are working to correct every issue out there.
Some of you guys are far too sensitive to problems encountered on new vehicles. Calm down. The problems will be be corrected. Whether it is a brand new model, or any other new vehicle purchase, Things happen.
I purchased a 300C, and let me tell you, it is the highest quality vehicle I have ever bought, and I bought about 30+ new ones since I began driving.
And for those of you who already have your screwed up 300C, how about demanding the dealer fix the front for you in the body shop? That's what I'd do.
and yes..... i will run up to the dealer tomorrow to complain.... i am highly doubting they will do anything, but it is worth a shot. i have a very good friend that owns a body shop, so to fix that i am sure it won't be too hard on my wallet... but still, it should not have come that way, nor should i have to pay to make it right.
i will report back after i talk with the dealer.
Safety precautions. No mention of pulling to the right problem. Anyone got the recall letter?
Case in point: I bought a new Chrysler 300 [Touring] V6 [3.5] literally right off the showroom floor [great looks!] and in taking it home I noticed a discernible 'pull' to the right. Not a harsh pull but a pull decidedly present. Cutting to the chase [and documented at the dealership therein], I'm told by the dealer that the 'specs' are within normal limits and that the vehicle is simply "crown sensitive." I'm further told that the vehicle has no 'alignment' per se but a matter of toe-in/toe-out adjustments [???] but that these specs are also 'within normal limits' and thus the problem being one of 'crown sensitivity' to roads! In effect, no present cure.
Problem is that I now have a brand new vehicle that 'still' pulls right which indicates, at least to me, an obvious engineering issue [read: design flaw perhaps?] yet until a 'cure' is found, I'm supposed to essentially live with this Dx of the vehicle being 'crown sensitive'! So, comes the classic, NOW WHAT? How can something be corrected when I'm informed that it's a matter of the vehicle model being 'crown sensitive'? Any input would be appreciated especially from any new 300-T owners who may have the same problem!
Doc Tony
Thanks for your help on this.