you probably noticed that if someone was in the passenger seat that the light would stay off. then once they get out or move for that point the light will come on. yes it is annoying. if you put something that weights about 20 lbs on your passenger seat the light will stay off.
i just got my 300 touring about 3 weeks ago. i had it in the shop within the first week (my luck w/ cars). what would happen is while i am accelerating the headlights, radio light, clock light, dash light would get brighter and dimmer almost like a strobe light. first time in the shop they said it was a mod, got it back - still not fixed. now they are saying its the main pfi/computer. any others have this problem. otherwise great car. i love it.
Install the E & G Classics aftermarket grille and a new plate holder comes with it that you can install below the grille. Another possibility is to grind the supports that go into the normal grille until they are flat with the rest of the plate. Make sure that your dealer does not drill the holes in the bumper. You then put it where you want it.
I tried 3 different sprays, Zymol, Turtle Wax and Meguiar's. Turtle Wax did a nice job of making the Plastic shine up. I am looking into a spray that I heard of that is sprayed on and coats the wheel. In the spring a brissel brush is susspose to clean it up. We'll see and I'll let you know
I test drove the 300C like I drive my Vette(s). I ran several 90 degree switchback curves at full thottle....there is no way to break that puppy from thr planet. And if you really want to make some smoke, take the traction controll off, lightly brake with your left foot and the stand on it. If you don't chicken out you will be amazed. I ran it up over 100 and did a panic stop. Fantastic stopping power....note the size of the discs.....all 4 bigger than most!
Then the final test...great big parking lot with few or no poles....yup.... a full power 360 (traction off please). The car is an animal.
And when we got back to the dealers lot, I bought it. By the way the salesman was with me and he said....drive it like you do your Vete.....hehehehe!
DC will stand behind the car. A lot of what I see here on this site is typical of new model, new car buyers. And the only ones who look for the site are those with problems. Would you believe the problem owner are in the single digit minority?
Great car....drive it like ya stole it....it was designed for that.....then slow down on the way to church.
I have had my C into the shop 5 times for airbag light problems. The last time they said they contacted Chrysler, but after about 4 days, BAM! Light goes on and off while chimming each time. I am giving them one more time- then I'm getting legal representation. This is a serious safety concern that they don't seemed too concerned about.
I had the same issue, they needed to replace and re-calibrate the sensor. The part is difficult to obtain as it is on backorder. It took my dealership about two weeks to get it. Once it was installed I have not had the problem since.
The transmission in my 300C failed at approximately 3900 miles. It has been at the dealer for about 2 weeks awaiting a new transmission. They wanted to rebuild it but I would not accept this. I like the car and hope this is not indicative of the quality of the vehicle. I brought Chrysler products (5 vehicles) for years and left them because of the lousy quality. This is the first Chrysler product I have owned in 20 years.
Has anyone had a successful lemon law with the right pull? We have 950mi on ours and have had it in twice so far, no repair has helped yet. Of course Chrysler says it is "road crown". But why does it only pull to the right, why not to the left when in the left hand lane of the interstate?? They can't explain that can they!! If anyone has had a successful Lemon Law case, please let me know what you needed to do to get it taken care of!
I have the same thing car has been in the dlr for 12 days put new drive shaft, new tiers, new rims, and still have the problem. Also have a flapping noise as you drive down a highway around 55/60 sounds like paper on the tier. Any one have a cure
I am a sales associate and I recently sold a 300 Touring. 36 hours later the customer came in and told me that all the lights flicker. I took a look at the vehicle and affirmed what she told me. Anyone have the same problem? Or know how to fix it. Please Reply!!!! Thanks
I recently purchased a 300 Limited that had the same problems with headlights and panel lights flickering. I took it back to the dealer the first time and they said I didn't have the switch that turns on the lights all the way on. Well, it did it again and this time the battery light came on. I took it back to the dealer and they are now replacing the alternator!!!!
This has been a common problem with the lights in Chrysler sedans. It happened in my 98 Intrepid, my 2000 and 2003 300M's and my wife's 2001 and 2003 300M's. If the 300's are using the same dash light intensity dial, then read the following:
If it is just a flickering problem, I found I was able to eliminate that by adjusting the light intensity dial on the dash to the highest level.
If it is a full scale light show - i.e. dash lights and headlights pulsating on and off, it usually stops after a minute or so and can't be duplicated at will for service repair.
The problem is well documented in the thousands of posts in the 300M forum.
I posted a few weeks ago (post #259). I also have the problem that all the lights on the car flicker -- headlights, dashboard, etc. However, it only happens when the car is cold. I guess there is more of a load on the charging system. Had it at the dealer. Everything checked out okay, but then again, the car was warm. Going to bring it back soon because as it gets colder, the flickering is getting worse and really starting to get annoying. Someone mentioned replacing the alternator on one of these posts. Wonder if that solved the problem.
I used to hear of improperly inserted fuses found after delivery. Haven't heard this lately.I have never checked mine since I have had no problems of this type.
There was a TSB issued on the light show problem for the 300M. I don't have the cite but it is out there if you look for it. Maybe the same issue with the 300.
Well, they replaced the alternator on my 300 Limited on Friday 11/19/04..went to Atlanta Friday night and still the same problem.. not much fun for a 5 1/2 hour ride. Please help!!!The dealer doesn't seem to know what the problem is but this light show is very annoying.
I've just been through my first winter driving experience with my 300C in heavy slushy snow. I got stuck in my driveway. I was anticipating problems with the switch to rear drive from the front driver I had before and was planning to install winter ice/snow tires for the season. Problem is, I can't find P225/60R18 winter tires to fit this car!! I also checked with the dealer and with Chrysler Customer Service. No luck and especially no help from the Chrysler Customer Service person. A move down to smaller wheels (17")isn't an option as they don't clear the front calipers. Help! I don't want my C to be a snow sculpture on my lawn all winter!
Here's where I would start for a fix. It's no secret that many of the 300's fuses are not completely seated. There is a fuse box under the hood and in the trunk next to the battery (check your owner's manual for the exact location). Push all the fuses down tight. You can do this.
anybody have there malfunction fngine light come on yet. 5,000kk first problem, i drove about 400 mile with it lit the gas cap was tight.i was in the state of miss. i live in ind. hate to go back to dealer with the problem guess i have to.
I'm a student doing a little marketing research about these new wheels. Can you tell me if the salesman was clear about these wheels being chrome clad (plastic covered in chrome) or if he just told you that they didn't need to be changed in the winter?
I know that I'll probably regret saying this but...pushing the fuses down may have actually helped in my case. Only time will tell and the cold weather may bring it back, but I think that the problem is virtually gone. Even my wife asked if the problem had gone away before I mentioned to her that I had pushed the fuses down. Stay tuned.
My 300M was a constant light show. Dealer replaced "Body Control Module, and it went away for a long time. Now @ 85K miles and the light show is returning. Ready for a new 300 but wondering if Chrysler will ever get it right. After reading some of these post I wonder if the dealer simply pushed down some of the fuses and nailed me for a big bucks "Module". Next time if I stay with Chrysler my extended warranty will exceed 75K miles.
As I understand it the Northeast winters and all the road salt just eats the Chrome. Most drivers in this area take off the "real chrome" wheels for the winter and install standard rims. My dealer told me that because they were chrome - clad and they have a "special coating" the winter slat should not effect the wheel. We'll see.
My 300C now has 3,300 miles. It was solid until 1,000 miles when it developed a rattle or rattles from the center instrument panel where the radio, heater etc. is. The dealership has replaced and padded the chrome (Bezel?) that surrounds the area but something still rattles. However, when it is raining or wet out I can't hear a thing. Once it is dry again it starts up. I like the car but this is taking the enjoyment out of driving it. I even removed the CDs from the radio and the sunglasses from the holder. No luck. Has anyone else had this problem? What would you recommend or what should I do next. The dealership is great and is really trying to help but can't figure it out.
A friend of mine bought a 300 Limited with the 3.5 motor. She is complaining of a clicking noise. I can't hear it in the car, but when you open the hood it is very evident that it is either the injectors or valve noise. My 300 C or my 97 Concorde with the 3.5 motor dose not sound like that at all.
Has anyone else had this problem or have any ideas?
I knew that I would regret saying it -- the light show has come back. It's interesting because the lights only flicker as the engine passes 2,000 rpm's either on the way up or the way down. If you keep the engine speed at a constant 2,000 rpm's, then the flickering turns more into a blinking. This is true for every light on the car -- headlights, dash lights, interior lights, etc. I don't have time right now to have this looked at. Maybe at the next oil change. I'm just a little worried about what this wild electric fluctuation is doing to the rest of the electronics in the car.
Has anyone experienced a snapping/popping sound in the rear-end? After coming to a full stop, and starting up again, a snapping sound can be heard. I'm not sure if it is related to brakes or suspension.
Question -- When I first got my 300 I could swear that the auto climate control waited until there was some heat in the radiator before turning up the fan. Now as soon as the car is started the fan starts blasting which results in freezing cold air blowing around the car until the engine heats up. What are some of your experiences?
You are correct. My 300C waits until the car is warm then turns the fan up (as did my Cadillac and any car with an auto setting). Possibly a problem with your thermostat or cabin temperature sensor? If its something that you can reproduce all the time then I would bring it to the dealer.
I have a rough idle in my 300c. Took it in for an oil change and had the engine checked. They said they reprogrammed something. Still runs rough, but what a ride! Going to take it on a 3000 mile trip...hope I don't have an electronic problem.
I live in the northern tip of lower Michigan and just had the same slushy snow. Plain and simple, I love my 300c Hmei but it is aweful in the snow. I took the advice of the guy in a later message and contacted a Nokian dealer in my area. I have to do something with tires or I'm in deep (pardon the pun) trouble. The Nokian Hakkapelitta SUV in the 235 60R 18 size will work. Even though it is 10MM taller, there is plenty of clearance to accomodate the larger size. If it didn't work, I have no idea what I would have done, it is that big of an issue.
If you have an automatic you might check with your dealer to see if they can change the shift points. Also you might be able to put a different performance chip in the Hemi for snow.
Should be cheaper than buying new tires and if others are having the same problem, it wouldn't hurt to have it noted in the database. My experience with high performance engines with ice and or snow don't really care what type of tires that you have.
Thanks for this post!! My horn does work as long as the key in is the acc. position. Not in the off position though. My car was built in December so it probably does have the most recent software.
Since most of the posters here have some sort of concern about their vehicles I wanted to ask this question. I have 3 month old C with about 8,000 miles. Drives me nuts that I have to put so many miles on this car, but work calls for it. I have a number of problems but I've been able to "bear" with them. Right hand pull, metallic popping or click every morning from inside the middle console or dash, rough idle, erractic shifting, wheels make a cracking sound before they get "warmed up," window makes a weird dragging sound when I roll them down automatically, all without any answers from the dealer...but anyways I was curious to know if anyone out there knows the lifespan of the engine??...i want to be able to drive this car as long as possible, but I also need to plan my future accordingly...if the engine is going to die before 100K, i'll probably need another car in 3 years, but is it the engine I should be worrying about or the transmission. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks
My engine was not giving much power, the cut off was about 4500 rpm. I was stuck in some snow coming,out of my drive it has a slight incline.
I tried it with out ESP and still had the same problem. Finally got it back in the garage by using reverse and my malfunction light came on and still stays on.
The ESP light goes on and off with out me pushing the setting button.
I was unable to get it to the dealer yet , any one else have the same problem.
We had a good snow on Friday and Saturday that really put the new tires to a test. I ended up with the all season Hakapaliita, not the snows. They gave me a choice and as it turns out the all season went through the snow just fine. Without them i would have been useless until spring!
Before I got my Nokian Tires, I got stuck a bunch. When I would go from reverse to drive, the light would go on as you described. I took it to my dealer who cleared it out, and it has not come on again. Also, simultaneously, the ESP light would come on. I don't think the "C" likes winter much ?!?!? There's an aweful lot of torque going on.
Thanks for the input on the light, my dealer replaced a light behind dash and it seems to be working so far. I still have the ESP light going on and off with out pressing the button.
Thanks for the tip on the tires I will look into them.
Comments
I ran several 90 degree switchback curves at full thottle....there is no way to break that puppy from thr planet. And if you really want to make some smoke, take the traction controll off, lightly brake with your left foot and the stand on it. If you don't chicken out you will be amazed.
I ran it up over 100 and did a panic stop. Fantastic stopping power....note the size of the discs.....all 4 bigger than most!
Then the final test...great big parking lot with few or no poles....yup.... a full power 360 (traction off please). The car is an animal.
And when we got back to the dealers lot, I bought it. By the way the salesman was with me and he said....drive it like you do your Vete.....hehehehe!
DC will stand behind the car. A lot of what I see here on this site is typical of new model, new car buyers. And the only ones who look for the site are those with problems. Would you believe the problem owner are in the single digit minority?
Great car....drive it like ya stole it....it was designed for that.....then slow down on the way to church.
billethkid
If anyone has had a successful Lemon Law case, please let me know what you needed to do to get it taken care of!
Getting Some Lemon-Aid From Your Lemon Maker
If it is just a flickering problem, I found I was able to eliminate that by adjusting the light intensity dial on the dash to the highest level.
If it is a full scale light show - i.e. dash lights and headlights pulsating on and off, it usually stops after a minute or so and can't be duplicated at will for service repair.
The problem is well documented in the thousands of posts in the 300M forum.
A move down to smaller wheels (17")isn't an option as they don't clear the front calipers. Help! I don't want my C to be a snow sculpture on my lawn all winter!
No promises, but it's a start.
http://www.nokiantires.com/newsite/tires_popup.cfm?id=29&size- =255/55R18
Dealer Locater Page by state -
http://www.nokiantires.com/newsite/map.cfm
Has anyone else had this problem or have any ideas?
I'm sure you'll find it to be no big deal but I understand it being a nuisance (sp?).
Thanks
Should be cheaper than buying new tires and if others are having the same problem, it wouldn't hurt to have it noted in the database. My experience with high performance engines with ice and or snow don't really care what type of tires that you have.
All the Best
D
I tried it with out ESP and still had the same problem. Finally got it back in the garage by using reverse and my malfunction light came on and still stays on.
The ESP light goes on and off with out me pushing the setting button.
I was unable to get it to the dealer yet , any one else have the same problem.
Thanks for the tip on the tires I will look into them.