Chronic Car Buyers Anonymous (Archived)

roadburner

ab348 said:

roadburner said:

corvette said:

GM used to specify a 10 year interval for brake fluid. Most European brands recommend changing it every 2 years, I think Honda/Acura is 3 years.

2 years is as far as I am prepared to go. Not only does the moisture lower the boiling point, but it can also damage the ABS pump(s).

Sounds like ABS pumps have a rather serious design flaw if that's the case.

I’ve never had a failure but then I maintain my cars by the book.
Consequently, I haven’t lost any sleep over it.

roadburner

rayainsw said:

First actual, instrumented test I have seen for the 2022 GTI:

https://www.motortrend.com/cars/volkswagen/gti/2022/2022-volkswagen-gti-first-test-first-drive-review/

Thanks for the link; I know the British car magazines have griped at length about the touch capacitive switchgear on the new GTI. I’ve been spoiled by the later iterations of iDrive- I either use the iDrive controller or voice recognition 99% of the time.

stickguy

nyccarguy said:

dad23 said:

Good luck @nyccarguy, is this the first issue you've had with the Pilot?

Yes & Thank-you!

Should have put a scan tool on your birthday list!

stickguy

rayainsw said:

First actual, instrumented test I have seen for the 2022 GTI:

https://www.motortrend.com/cars/volkswagen/gti/2022/2022-volkswagen-gti-first-test-first-drive-review/

Excellent performance and handling, especially for FWD. and their estimate on the R in the mid 4’s is really strong. Plus AWD to deal with the torque and launching. The R seems like the best deal.

https://www.motortrend.com/cars/volkswagen/golf-r/2022/2022-volkswagen-golf-r-first-drive-review-on-ice/

28firefighter

https://www.reuters.com/world/us/washington-state-passes-bill-with-goal-phase-out-gasoline-cars-2021-04-15/

stickguy

28firefighter said:

https://www.reuters.com/world/us/washington-state-passes-bill-with-goal-phase-out-gasoline-cars-2021-04-15/

I’ll be dead long before there aren’t gas powered cars on the road.

And if the want to try, better seriously upgrade the power grid first.

28firefighter

Well, to be clear, it's just limiting the sale and registration of new MY 2030 cars and later. Old cars will still be able to be registered.

nyccarguy

Good news and bad news. The dealership found the problem. The Rocker Arm Control Solenoid was completely dry. They checked the dipstick and said there was little to no oil in the engine. They even sent me a video of the engine oil draining out which was thick and black. They said they ran a test and found no leaks. The solution is to perform a couple of oil changes to make sure everything flows properly. $190 plus tax.

https://app.truvideo.com/v/8nHbnxPl?s=xqxZwCHj8QfVoFnhtllHwd1coBA8aUPVngT8nkg1l1g=

I wonder if my mechanic just forgot to change the oil.

au1994

nyccarguy said:

Good news and bad news. The dealership found the problem. The Rocker Arm Control Solenoid was completely dry. They checked the dipstick and said there was little to no oil in the engine. They even sent me a video of the engine oil draining out which was thick and black. They said they ran a test and found no leaks. The solution is to perform a couple of oil changes to make sure everything flows properly. $190 plus tax.

https://app.truvideo.com/v/8nHbnxPl?s=xqxZwCHj8QfVoFnhtllHwd1coBA8aUPVngT8nkg1l1g=

I wonder if my mechanic just forgot to change the oil.

That’s great news but I believe I’d be having a rather pointed conversation with my mechanic.

28firefighter

Wait - what? You've been driving with no oil?

ab348

28firefighter said:

Wait - what? You've been driving with no oil?

"Oil change? You mean, you have to CHANGE it?"

stickguy

That’s a big reason I use the dealer for oil changes and routine services. If someone is going to screw up and cause a problem, I want to be the one doing the pointing!

Maybe the mechanic did skip it. Because to be that low, you would likely notice the smoke if it’s burning since it isn’t leaking.

Cheap fix at least. And good excuse to fire up the trade calculator!

pensfan83

Never would have guessed that.

28firefighter

Only a Honda would be able to drive with no oil for any significant mileage and simply throw a check engine light...

stickguy

Nope. And why you can’t tell too much from the dash messages. Scan tool might not have helped much unless it made you think of checking the oil!

Actually, good reminder to check your oil monthly!

xwesx

nyccarguy said:

xwesx said:

Always a frustrating experience, @nyccarguy . Surely just a hiccup.

I’m just glad the closest Honda dealer is the next town over. 7 miles from my house, unlike the trek you have to endure every time your Q7 needs service. Any news with regards to the Q7 BTW?

My dealer is just the next town over, too!


Now that you mention it, no, I haven't heard anything in a couple weeks now! The representative called me on Tuesday, 3/30, the day after I dropped it off, to say that they needed to order some parts for the reductant pump, but that they should have it done "within a week, or maybe as late as Thursday if the parts are delayed." However, I think that was *last* Thursday now, and I still haven't heard anything! Oh, well! In the meantime, I'm putting miles on somebody else's car instead of my own. I clocked the odometer over 1,000 a couple days ago, and I have certainly dirtied this thing up with our winter breakup now in full swing!

roadburner

nyccarguy said:

Good news and bad news. The dealership found the problem. The Rocker Arm Control Solenoid was completely dry. They checked the dipstick and said there was little to no oil in the engine. They even sent me a video of the engine oil draining out which was thick and black. They said they ran a test and found no leaks. The solution is to perform a couple of oil changes to make sure everything flows properly. $190 plus tax.

https://app.truvideo.com/v/8nHbnxPl?s=xqxZwCHj8QfVoFnhtllHwd1coBA8aUPVngT8nkg1l1g=

I wonder if my mechanic just forgot to change the oil.

That does not sound good. If it wasn’t leaking or being consumed by the motor the only other explanation is mechanic error.

xwesx

ab348 said:

On the downside, it has the horrible Cadillac electronic shift mechanism which never fails to befuddle me even though I've driven with them a few times. When I was leaving the dealer lot I forgot that you had to hold down the little button on the side when you were trying to shift it into Drive, but a message on the dash reminded me of that. Later I stopped in a parking lot to do an errand and for a while thought I was going to be stuck there because I couldn't get it into reverse when I wanted to back out of the spot. Finally figured out that you had to do it in 2 steps, first P to N, then N to R. Hate it.

Welcome to the Dark Side. This sounds very similar to Audi's system. Even with this car for nearly three weeks now, I still hate it. There is literally nothing intuitive about it at all.

corvette

@nyccarguy - that stinks! The videos looked like to me that there was no oil on the dipstick, but once he started draining it, it was very dark but still draining after he want back to check the rear brakes. So, I don't think it was completely empty. The case on the oil filter also looked fairly dirty--how long ago did your mechanic allegedly change the oil?

There are some anecdotes that the VCM can cause oil consumption on the order of 1 quart or so per normal change interval, but if that were the case here, I think you'd have to miss more than one oil change to get a completely dry dipstick. I'd keep a close eye on the oil level. (I try to check the tire tread condition, oil level, and battery health every 1,000 miles, which is probably overkill.)

xwesx

sda said:

If you had to go from P to R in a hurry, say to get out of the way of another vehicle, that could be an issue. Also if you had to 'rock' a car to get unstuck, would you be able to do that?

With some difficulty, perhaps. Why? Well, it seems that, occasionally, I can get it to transition from reverse to drive smoothly. But, in most scenarios, I must have *my foot on the brake* in order for the car to engage the gear. /facepalm

Oh, and here's another fun one I was explaining to my son this morning:

We were starting to take off from a stoplight, and he hears this loud *thwack* followed by the car slowing for a moment before it starts to accelerate again. Natural question, "what was that?"

Here's what it is: The darned accelerator pedal is so short on these cars that I cannot comfortably rest my foot in a position that works well for the brake and also allows me to firmly press the accelerator! As such, pretty much any time I have the cruise set ahead of a light, then press the brake, I naturally just pivot my foot to the accelerator. The pedal catches the end of my shoe, starts to go, then slips off it as I try to press down further. I must plant my heel in an awkward position for the brake pedal in order to have a confident command of the accelerator.

Hey, but at least there's no risk of "unintended acceleration" anymore. Stupid drivers of the world unite!

ab348

stickguy said:

Nope. And why you can’t tell too much from the dash messages. Scan tool might not have helped much unless it made you think of checking the oil!

Actually, good reminder to check your oil monthly!

roadburner said:

nyccarguy said:

Good news and bad news. The dealership found the problem. The Rocker Arm Control Solenoid was completely dry. They checked the dipstick and said there was little to no oil in the engine. They even sent me a video of the engine oil draining out which was thick and black. They said they ran a test and found no leaks. The solution is to perform a couple of oil changes to make sure everything flows properly. $190 plus tax.

https://app.truvideo.com/v/8nHbnxPl?s=xqxZwCHj8QfVoFnhtllHwd1coBA8aUPVngT8nkg1l1g=

I wonder if my mechanic just forgot to change the oil.

That does not sound good. If it wasn’t leaking or being consumed by the motor the only other explanation is mechanic error.

And I know what would happen to me if I went to the mechanic alleging that. "No way! That can't happen here!" Deny, deny, deny.

I wouldn't lose the video of the black oil draining out.

If nothing else, Mr. Mechanic should reimburse you for the bill for today's services. And now I might be of a mind to start looking for a vehicle to trade the Pilot on.

sda

On our 2010 Pilot we had a VCM repair of some sort that was covered by a TSB around 70k, which is about the same mileage as Bradd's. IIRC I noticed it was starting to use oil between changes which it hadn't done in the past and then later a warning light triggered which prompted a dealer visit. I don't recall exactly what they did but they reprogrammed and replaced 3 spark plugs. I went ahead and had the other three plugs replaced. That seemed to cure the issue. It ran great and no oil consumption between oil changes. Was doing fine at 149k when we traded it.

xwesx

nyccarguy said:

Good news and bad news. The dealership found the problem. The Rocker Arm Control Solenoid was completely dry. They checked the dipstick and said there was little to no oil in the engine. They even sent me a video of the engine oil draining out which was thick and black. They said they ran a test and found no leaks. The solution is to perform a couple of oil changes to make sure everything flows properly. $190 plus tax.

https://app.truvideo.com/v/8nHbnxPl?s=xqxZwCHj8QfVoFnhtllHwd1coBA8aUPVngT8nkg1l1g=

I wonder if my mechanic just forgot to change the oil.

Low, yes, but what came out looks pretty typical for used oil; it is certainly not thicker than I would expect.

sb55

nyccarguy said:

Good news and bad news. The dealership found the problem. The Rocker Arm Control Solenoid was completely dry. They checked the dipstick and said there was little to no oil in the engine. They even sent me a video of the engine oil draining out which was thick and black. They said they ran a test and found no leaks. The solution is to perform a couple of oil changes to make sure everything flows properly. $190 plus tax.

https://app.truvideo.com/v/8nHbnxPl?s=xqxZwCHj8QfVoFnhtllHwd1coBA8aUPVngT8nkg1l1g=

I wonder if my mechanic just forgot to change the oil.

My Silverado has the rare 6.2 motor and that takes 8 quarts. We had the oil changed before a trip. We drove it to SC when it was pretty new and got a low oil warning. It was 2 qts low. I suspect that the dealer mechanic put in 6 qts that the "regular" 5.3 takes. It has never burned a drop since.
I hope that is the case with yours.

xwesx

corvette said:

@nyccarguy - that stinks! The videos looked like to me that there was no oil on the dipstick, but once he started draining it, it was very dark but still draining after he want back to check the rear brakes. So, I don't think it was completely empty. The case on the oil filter also looked fairly dirty--how long ago did your mechanic allegedly change the oil?

There are some anecdotes that the VCM can cause oil consumption on the order of 1 quart or so per normal change interval, but if that were the case here, I think you'd have to miss more than one oil change to get a completely dry dipstick. I'd keep a close eye on the oil level. (I try to check the tire tread condition, oil level, and battery health every 1,000 miles, which is probably overkill.)

It can vary by manufacturer, but typically to get a "dry" dipstick, which this one wasn't entirely dry if the black drip on the end was any indicator, is about two quarts low. The "fill" mark is one quart below the "full" mark.

I second the notion to keep an eye on the oil level. I check my vehicles every other fill up (unless I have established cause to check more frequently!).

xwesx

I mentioned earlier that we are in the midst of winter breakup now. This year, that means lots of fun because of the heavy snows a couple weeks ago, followed by a week of record lows (meaning -20F or so), and then, suddenly, +40-50F days!

Last night, I went home early (about 1745) to drop my daughter off before going back into town, and some folks that live about a mile from me were stuck in their driveway (newish Impala). Young couple, military, and the young lady is at term on her pregnancy. I helped the husband push the car backward to the road, which we were successful in doing. I continued home, dropped off the daughter, then turned around to head back into town.

Passing the house again, they are AGAIN stuck with the car, this time fairly hopelessly so because they took a strong run at it and just buried the car in slush about two lengths into the drive. Thankfully, one of the other people who lives there has a pickup with decent tires on it. We asked him about helping, which he had no interest in doing, but, thankfully, he also had motivation to get the car unstuck since he wasn't going anywhere as long as the driveway was blocked! He let me use the truck instead (brave man!), so I pulled out my recovery gear, got everything rigged up, and I easily pulled the car further into the drive. Then, resetting with a shorter distance (small driveway), I pulled the car up to their parking spot, disconnected everything, then we used a little elbow grease to get them into the parking spot.

...TBC...

xwesx

I finally made it back to town, at nearly 1900 (was supposed to be there at 1730!), and finished off that meeting as best I could. My son and I then went home, I fired up the plow truck, then I drove back to that person's house and scraped all the slush out of the driveway, just in case that was "the night" in terms of the baby's arrival. On the way home, I saw another car parked on the road (tell-tale sign of slushy driveway!), so I stopped at that person's house and spent another 45 minutes scraping a few tons of slush out of that drive.

On my short stint to my own house... my plow runs out of fuel (gauge hasn't worked in a decade, and I just lost track of my use). Thankfully, I was only a few hundred meters from home, but then a neighbor drives up and stops to chat. He offers to drive me home for the cans and back to the fueling station to get fuel. I almost declined (since I have my own cars, too!), but it was clear that he just wanted a social break from the harsh realities of his own life, so I accepted, we chatted, and before too much longer I was fueled up and ready to go home. Except... that neighbor's drive was pretty awful, too, and his beefy truck had trouble getting through the slush, so I went ahead and scraped his drive, too. LOL

The good news was that I was still home by 2200, which was plenty of time to snag a little dinner and fall flat on my face!

xwesx

@nyccarguy How curious, this timing....

"Mike" from the dealership called me about ten minutes ago. The Q7 is ready; they had some delays in the parts and ended up having a few surprises during the course of the repair, but it is now ready to go. I just have to figure out when I can get down there to get it!

nyccarguy

corvette said:

@nyccarguy - that stinks! The videos looked like to me that there was no oil on the dipstick, but once he started draining it, it was very dark but still draining after he want back to check the rear brakes. So, I don't think it was completely empty. The case on the oil filter also looked fairly dirty--how long ago did your mechanic allegedly change the oil?

There are some anecdotes that the VCM can cause oil consumption on the order of 1 quart or so per normal change interval, but if that were the case here, I think you'd have to miss more than one oil change to get a completely dry dipstick. I'd keep a close eye on the oil level. (I try to check the tire tread condition, oil level, and battery health every 1,000 miles, which is probably overkill.)

I saw the dipstick was dry and then saw the oil draining out. Yes it looked black, but I'll have to inquire exactly how much drained out. I had the oil changed at 63,600 miles. He also changed the front & rear brake pads & rotors. I'll have to keep a closer eye on it.

xwesx

nyccarguy said:

I saw the dipstick was dry and then saw the oil draining out. Yes it looked black, but I'll have to inquire exactly how much drained out. I had the oil changed at 63,600 miles. He also changed the front & rear brake pads & rotors. I'll have to keep a closer eye on it.

Does your mechanic put a reminder sticker in the window? If so, was the sticker replaced (showing 63,600)? If he did that, it is likely that he didn't forget to do the oil change. However, 4,000 miles is plenty of time to use that much oil if there is another issue. Or, at least use *some* oil if, for some reason, he forgot to top it off.

roadburner

xwesx said:

ab348 said:

On the downside, it has the horrible Cadillac electronic shift mechanism which never fails to befuddle me even though I've driven with them a few times. When I was leaving the dealer lot I forgot that you had to hold down the little button on the side when you were trying to shift it into Drive, but a message on the dash reminded me of that. Later I stopped in a parking lot to do an errand and for a while thought I was going to be stuck there because I couldn't get it into reverse when I wanted to back out of the spot. Finally figured out that you had to do it in 2 steps, first P to N, then N to R. Hate it.

Welcome to the Dark Side. This sounds very similar to Audi's system. Even with this car for nearly three weeks now, I still hate it. There is literally nothing intuitive about it at all.

I still prefer a traditional shift lever, but I’ve acclimated to BMW’s “beer tap.” Squeeze the button on the side and pull back for Drive and push forward for Reverse. Push the top button for Park.
What I really find non-intuitive is the BMW DCT- to put it in Park you have to turn off the engine while the DCT is in neutral.

sda

I wish they would go back to a standardized shift format. It would make things so much easier. Push/pull/twist/tap, good grief.

tjc78

sda said:

I wish they would go back to a standardized shift format. It would make things so much easier. Push/pull/twist/tap, good grief.

Classic example of “if it ain’t broken”...

stickguy

Yup. Every car should have the classic H pattern and a clutch pedal.

pensfan83

I remember Grand Cherokee's had a similar issue with their shifter before a recall made them go back to a traditional shift knob and pattern.

stickguy

The plugs issue was a common VCM problem. Next step is new rings. I forget if there was a TSB Or extended warranty on that, but I know there was at least talk of a class action suit.

Spend some time on the forums, and lots of info and various gizmos created to override VCM (muzzlers). If I had kept our old RDX probably would have gotten one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VCMuzzler-II-to-Disable-muzzle-VCM-on-Honda-Acura-vehicles-VCM-Muzzler-delete-/172807770690

pensfan83

roadburner said:

xwesx said:

ab348 said:

On the downside, it has the horrible Cadillac electronic shift mechanism which never fails to befuddle me even though I've driven with them a few times. When I was leaving the dealer lot I forgot that you had to hold down the little button on the side when you were trying to shift it into Drive, but a message on the dash reminded me of that. Later I stopped in a parking lot to do an errand and for a while thought I was going to be stuck there because I couldn't get it into reverse when I wanted to back out of the spot. Finally figured out that you had to do it in 2 steps, first P to N, then N to R. Hate it.

Welcome to the Dark Side. This sounds very similar to Audi's system. Even with this car for nearly three weeks now, I still hate it. There is literally nothing intuitive about it at all.

I still prefer a traditional shift lever, but I’ve acclimated to BMW’s “beer tap.” Squeeze the button on the side and pull back for Drive and push forward for Reverse. Push the top button for Park.
What I really find non-intuitive is the BMW DCT- to put it in Park you have to turn off the engine while the DCT is in neutral.

I've become accustomed to Honda/Acura's push button system as well. Once your familiar with it maneuvers like 3 point turns aren't any harder to execute than if you had a traditional lever IMO.

nyccarguy

xwesx said:

nyccarguy said:

I saw the dipstick was dry and then saw the oil draining out. Yes it looked black, but I'll have to inquire exactly how much drained out. I had the oil changed at 63,600 miles. He also changed the front & rear brake pads & rotors. I'll have to keep a closer eye on it.

Does your mechanic put a reminder sticker in the window? If so, was the sticker replaced (showing 63,600)? If he did that, it is likely that he didn't forget to do the oil change. However, 4,000 miles is plenty of time to use that much oil if there is another issue. Or, at least use *some* oil if, for some reason, he forgot to top it off.

He always puts a sticker. He puts 5K miles (synthetic) which in my mind is a little conservative considering the fact that I give him Mobil 1 0W 20 Full Synthetic (what the Pilot requires). I go by the Honda Maintenance Minder which usually gives it 6,500 miles (ish).

Something just doesn't add up. I've watched him work. He is methodical. Always does his research. He explains everything to me. Why something needs to be done. The last time he changed the transmission fluid in my Dad's Yukon, I watched him check it 4 times and then add 1/4 quart.

stickguy

Time to start shopping. Too bad inventories suck.

Hers a plan. Sell pilot to Carmaxvanaroom. Lease an F150. Let the wife use the Tacoma until the lease runs out, then get something she wants. You use the prelude more during the summer.

stickguy

pensfan83 said:

roadburner said:

xwesx said:

ab348 said:

On the downside, it has the horrible Cadillac electronic shift mechanism which never fails to befuddle me even though I've driven with them a few times. When I was leaving the dealer lot I forgot that you had to hold down the little button on the side when you were trying to shift it into Drive, but a message on the dash reminded me of that. Later I stopped in a parking lot to do an errand and for a while thought I was going to be stuck there because I couldn't get it into reverse when I wanted to back out of the spot. Finally figured out that you had to do it in 2 steps, first P to N, then N to R. Hate it.

Welcome to the Dark Side. This sounds very similar to Audi's system. Even with this car for nearly three weeks now, I still hate it. There is literally nothing intuitive about it at all.

I still prefer a traditional shift lever, but I’ve acclimated to BMW’s “beer tap.” Squeeze the button on the side and pull back for Drive and push forward for Reverse. Push the top button for Park.
What I really find non-intuitive is the BMW DCT- to put it in Park you have to turn off the engine while the DCT is in neutral.

I've become accustomed to Honda/Acura's push button system as well. Once your familiar with it maneuvers like 3 point turns aren't any harder to execute than if you had a traditional lever IMO.

Still weird, but you do get used to it. And once you know it, easy to do by feel. Really only need the big drive button, and reverse lever, both super easy to tell by feel. It goes into park automatically when you turn the car off.

xwesx

stickguy said:

Time to start shopping. Too bad inventories suck.

Hers a plan. Sell pilot to Carmaxvanaroom. Lease an F150. Let the wife use the Tacoma until the lease runs out, then get something she wants. You use the prelude more during the summer.

Dang. You have it all figured out for him! So much for shopping!

nyccarguy

stickguy said:

Time to start shopping. Too bad inventories suck.

Hers a plan. Sell pilot to Carmaxvanaroom. Lease an F150. Let the wife use the Tacoma until the lease runs out, then get something she wants. You use the prelude more during the summer.

I'd be sleeping in the Tacoma if I went with that scheme plan.

stickguy

you aren't that tall. Should fit if you lay at an angle.

xwesx

stickguy said:

Still weird, but you do get used to it. And once you know it, easy to do by feel. Really only need the big drive button, and reverse lever, both super easy to tell by feel. It goes into park automatically when you turn the car off.

I said it before.... the design doesn't matter that much as long as they make it intuitive. In fact, the more visually different it is, the better. As a driver, you might initially reach for a lever that isn't there, but you definitely aren't going to mistake the functionality of push buttons or a dial for that of the lever they replace.

au1994

nyccarguy said:

xwesx said:

nyccarguy said:

I saw the dipstick was dry and then saw the oil draining out. Yes it looked black, but I'll have to inquire exactly how much drained out. I had the oil changed at 63,600 miles. He also changed the front & rear brake pads & rotors. I'll have to keep a closer eye on it.

Does your mechanic put a reminder sticker in the window? If so, was the sticker replaced (showing 63,600)? If he did that, it is likely that he didn't forget to do the oil change. However, 4,000 miles is plenty of time to use that much oil if there is another issue. Or, at least use *some* oil if, for some reason, he forgot to top it off.

He always puts a sticker. He puts 5K miles (synthetic) which in my mind is a little conservative considering the fact that I give him Mobil 1 0W 20 Full Synthetic (what the Pilot requires). I go by the Honda Maintenance Minder which usually gives it 6,500 miles (ish).

Something just doesn't add up. I've watched him work. He is methodical. Always does his research. He explains everything to me. Why something needs to be done. The last time he changed the transmission fluid in my Dad's Yukon, I watched him check it 4 times and then add 1/4 quart.

Absent smoke or an oil puddle, it is a mystery. I believe you have a long relationship with him so a conversation certainly wouldn’t hurt and I’m sure his diagnostics would be cheaper than the dealer.

But yeah, like everyone else said, a quote from Carmaxvanaroom ‘don’t cost a thing’!

xwesx

roadburner said:

I still prefer a traditional shift lever, but I’ve acclimated to BMW’s “beer tap.” Squeeze the button on the side and pull back for Drive and push forward for Reverse. Push the top button for Park.
What I really find non-intuitive is the BMW DCT- to put it in Park you have to turn off the engine while the DCT is in neutral.

How odd. It's an automatic; how often does one put an auto into neutral?!

ab348

Picked up the ATS, no charge for anything, and the two issues I reported seem to have been addressed. They tried to sell me a 4-wheel alignment but I had one done last fall when the tire shop swapped over my winter tires, so I declined and had them give me the alignment data they found. Now that I'm home I'm looking at the sheet the tire shop provided a few months back after they did it and I'm confused since they look almost the same. Guess I need to revisit the tire shop for further explanation next week. My inclination is to trust the tire shop more than the dealer but maybe I'm wrong.

greg128

I saw the dipstick was dry and then saw the oil draining out. Yes it looked black, but I'll have to inquire exactly how much drained out. I had the oil changed at 63,600 miles. He also changed the front & rear brake pads & rotors. I'll have to keep a closer eye on it.

I have always checked oil in all of my vehicles regularly and always look at the color and the smell of it. After many years you can recognize the look and smell of oil from a properly running engine.

oldfarmer50

stickguy said:

28firefighter said:

https://www.reuters.com/world/us/washington-state-passes-bill-with-goal-phase-out-gasoline-cars-2021-04-15/

I’ll be dead long before there aren’t gas powered cars on the road.

And if the want to try, better seriously upgrade the power grid first.

I’m waiting for them to build coal fired plants to charge all the EVs.

greg128

oldfarmer50 said:

stickguy said:

28firefighter said:

https://www.reuters.com/world/us/washington-state-passes-bill-with-goal-phase-out-gasoline-cars-2021-04-15/

I’ll be dead long before there aren’t gas powered cars on the road.

And if the want to try, better seriously upgrade the power grid first.

I’m waiting for them to build coal fired plants to charge all the EVs.

Then move to China