I know .. and the obsolete nav does nothing for me either, but I bet it wold be an absolute ball to drive. Maybe I should go in during the next rainstorm with a stack of c-notes Or I could meet you at the airport and take you there har har.
I know .. and the obsolete nav does nothing for me either, but I bet it would be an absolute ball to drive.
Yeah, BMW NA stuck the nav system in every car(it was optional across the pond). You can ubgrade it to DVD but it still won't be as useful as a $200 Garmin.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Wow, there is sure a lot of excitement about a 7 year old sub-200 hp stick-shift wagon. I'm not knocking BMW (I own one my myself), but there _are_ other options!
I test drove a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon (not the Outback, the regular wagon), with a stick, and it was a total hoot!
You have to forgive me. I have a very difficult time thinking of 2003 being seven years ago!
You do hit on a sore spot for me. We'd have bought a Legacy wagon with 5 speed all the way back in 99. It was great! But it was too small. Actually if I realized at the time that my daughters would grow up to be midgets I would have bought it. A used one is definitely on the check out list when the time comes for another car.
Actually I am starting to ponder whether that time might be sooner than I thought. The 00 Accord with 181K on it needs new tires soon. I know it will need a timing belt within the year. I'm starting to think that I might better use that money to move on to the next car.
I've been known at times to hang on to a car to the point where if it runs out of gas it's considered totaled and we're definitely not there yet...
2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
I knew a guy who lived in Boston who ordered a new X5 with a manual transmission. This was probably in 2000-2001 or so. I just don't see the point. I prefer automatics like 98% of the people (I'm getting old).
Mark
2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
I used to only drive stick but made the switch to AT after I took on a bay area commute. I miss it sometimes but for a daily driver I'm just gonna have to stick to AT
I really the 'benefits' of driving a manual (more fun, better gas mileage, control, traction, acceleration, and the somewhat intangible forcing-you-to-pay-attention thing, in general). And, let's face it, the prospect of replacing a clutch is a lot better than replacing an automatic transmission at this point :lemon: . I will say, an automatic that is well-matched to its engine is a nice thing. And, admittedly, driving a stick in Chicago stop-and-go traffic can sometimes be a real drag.
I used to be pretty die-hard on the manual trannie thing, but I really like having the two cars and, thus, one of each. Automatic in the daily driver and the stick for the "fun" car. If I returned to having one car, I'd probably still choose the manual.
Wanting a manual these days must purely be for the driver involvement, huh? Not long ago, the acceleration and mpg numbers always favored the manual, but nowadays it seems for those few cars that offer both trannie options, the automatic is matching if not besting the manual numbers. I don't claim to be very mechanically knowledgable - what's with the modern auto trannies? Is it just 'cause they generally match the manuals in number of gears now?
And am I the only one who is stubborn when it comes to the "manu-shift" automatics? My CX-9 has that, and I've played around with it a little, but don't see the sense in using it on a regular basis - like it's pretending to be something it's not. Kinda like, "No - I drive a real manual, so I won't deign myself to play around with this gimmick."
And am I the only one who is stubborn when it comes to the "manu-shift" automatics? My CX-9 has that, and I've played around with it a little, but don't see the sense in using it on a regular basis
Bruce, my wife's '08 VUE has the 6-speed with the manu-matic option ... we find it useful here in Castle Rock when the weather is bad. Nice to drop it down to a lower gear so we don't have to use the brakes quite so much when coming down slippery hills.
I don't claim to be very mechanically knowledgable - what's with the modern auto trannies? Is it just 'cause they generally match the manuals in number of gears now?
Different gear ratios. Autos are usually geared taller tha the manual box, which lets them pull lower rpm's on the highway.
Bruce, my wife's '08 VUE has the 6-speed with the manu-matic option ... we find it useful here in Castle Rock when the weather is bad. Nice to drop it down to a lower gear so we don't have to use the brakes quite so much when coming down slippery hills.
Good advice - I imagine the shifting will come in handy in the mountains, going up and down I-70 as well.
I used to be pretty die-hard on the manual trannie thing, but I really like having the two cars and, thus, one of each. Automatic in the daily driver and the stick for the "fun" car. If I returned to having one car, I'd probably still choose the manual.
My wife's X3 and my 2002 are automatics. Everything else has three pedals. I'd prefer a manual in the '02, but you don't come across nice examples every day and the price was right. In any case, I'll convert it to a five speed manual if/when the 3HP12 finally dies...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
More out of curiousity I stopped at the Ford dealer to take a peek around. They had nothing in fullsize SUVs that interested me, so as I was leaving I saw it.......probably the most beautiful 2005 GMC 2500HD CC SB duramax I've ever seen. Leather, heated seats, interior looked hovered in, exterior was flawless. Truck had 48k miles on it, no leaks, could have passed for new.
Against my better judgement I test drove it, loved it, and had them appraise the Pilot. I have some equity, not much but a little, price was right on the truck. I managed to walk away, telling myself that I would hate it and couldn't live with it on a daily basis.....yeah right, but anyway.
Then on the way home I came within inches of totaling the Pilot, it was so close! I doubt I stopped an inch from eating Toyota Camry behind while getting an F-350 enema! That reminded me how much I adore my Pilot and how safe it really is. Ever hit the brakes so hard that you override the ABS system? Well, I did, the stability control took over and kept the car straight and got it stopped. Thankfully the F-350 managed to stop before taking out the back of my car. Shaken but relieved I drove home and parked my beloved Pilot back in the garage.
Now back to looking for a cheap truck I can pay cash for and drive once in a while when its needed.
Not sure how many folks here have good mechanical skills, but I'm looking for a little advice.
On Thursday, my daughter was driving her '06 ION (33K miles) home from college when she went over a set of railroad tracks and the car stalled on her (she had power to the radio, the engine just died). She was able to get to the side of the road and restart the car and drive home.
We took it to the dealer yesterday, and - naturally - they couldn't find anything wrong. Drove the car over numerous bumps - nothing. No codes in the computer to be pulled.
Any thoughts? We've owned the car since new 3 1/2 years ago and have never had a problem like this.
I'm afraid this might cause some trust issues to develop. The daughter drives home from college every weekend - about 100 miles one way.
On Thursday, my daughter was driving her '06 ION (33K miles) home from college when she went over a set of railroad tracks and the car stalled on her (she had power to the radio, the engine just died). She was able to get to the side of the road and restart the car and drive home.
We took it to the dealer yesterday, and - naturally - they couldn't find anything wrong. Drove the car over numerous bumps - nothing. No codes in the computer to be pulled
Eh I have poor mechanical skills :P but it sounds to me like a loose wire/short somewhere. It could be a bad/flakey ground going to the fuel pump, powertrain computer, or ignition system. You need air, fuel and spark for the thing to work, so if it died, it wasn't getting one of those. I could also have been something transient like the bump knocked an air pocket loose in the fuel system or something, but in a FE car with that much fuel pressure, I don't know how likely it is.
Sounds like it lost spark for a moment when the vibration from driving over the railroad tracks hit the ignition.
Could be lose plug wires or a coil that is going out. I can't remember if the Ion is coil on plug, has a separate coil for each plug, or if it has one or two coils off to the side then wires running to the plugs from the coil/s.
I imagine it is coil on plug though. You would think the dealership would have checked that but well they may not have. Could have been just something totally random too. Are their high tension power lines near the railroad tracks? Could be a combo of the vibration from running of the tracks and interference from the power lines that scrambled the computer for a moment.
Why put it off? The sooner that you ditch the slushbox, the sooner (and longer) that you can enjoy the 5-spd. Just do it!
Well, the engine and slushbox were both rebuilt @9,000 before I bought the car, so I figure that I might as well get some use out of it. On top of that, my son wants to drive it when he gets his license, and I think he shouldn't deal with a manual right away(he'll learn the intricacies of driving a stick on my Wrangler).
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
This might be a long shot, but my 2000 Intrepid had experienced something similar back in 2008. No railroad tracks or bumps involved, but I was just driving along and suddenly it died on me. I put it in neutral, turned the key, and it started right up.
It was fine for about a week or two, but then it did it again. Someone in the Intrepid forum said it sounded like a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor staring to go bad, and that eventually it'll start happening more and more often, and the car will get harder and harder to start. And sure enough, that's what happened!
On the Intrepid at least, the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors won't trigger any computer codes when they go bad. When I took it to the mechanic, he found a vacuum leak and thought that was the problem. And naturally, the car didn't act up for him. He told me to come get it on a Friday, drive it around that weekend to see if it acted up. I didn't have to wait long, as it stalled out before I got home.
The mechanic didn't want to replace those sensors, because he didn't want to just throw parts at the car and hope it works (although he's done that on other occasions. ), but I convinced him to do it, and the car never acted up again in the 1 1/2 months between then and when it got totaled.
Wait, someone did have Valentine's Day. Seriously...
LOL, well its Valentine's Day and the only thing I bought was a used futon. I was kinda grumbling about it not fitting in the Pilot, but after taking it all apart we managed to squish it in there. Hubby said "see, if we had a truck we could have saved a lot of time"
I think I'll stay on the wagon for a while longer......maybe wait until the TT is paid off next year.
On another note, the Pilot is having this weird issue with the driver's side parking light, about 1/2 the time it won't come on unless I smack it hard. I've looked at all the wires, everything "looks" ok. Any ideas?
Try some CRC electrical cleaner and some di-electric grease on the light fixture. Did wonders for a balky parking light on my MB C230 that kept throwing an error.
if the chemicals don't work, you can always shove a paperclip in there to keep the bulb tight. Of course, you don't want to shove it all the way down to where it touches the bottom, too. Yeah, its the easy way out, but it has been working on one of my Benz lights for 3 months now.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks to all who deigned to reply to my post. Let me respond to the responses, in order:
lilengineerboy - It could be a bad/flakey ground going to the fuel pump, powertrain computer, or ignition system. You need air, fuel and spark for the thing to work, so if it died, it wasn't getting one of those. I could also have been something transient like the bump knocked an air pocket loose in the fuel system or something, but in a FE car with that much fuel pressure, I don't know how likely it is.
The dealer checked all the electronic connections - in and out of the various computers, etc. Nothing loose or in need of being tightened.
british_rover - Sounds like it lost spark for a moment when the vibration from driving over the railroad tracks hit the ignition.
Could be lose plug wires or a coil that is going out. I can't remember if the Ion is coil on plug, has a separate coil for each plug, or if it has one or two coils off to the side then wires running to the plugs from the coil/s.
I imagine it is coil on plug though. You would think the dealership would have checked that but well they may not have. Could have been just something totally random too. Are their high tension power lines near the railroad tracks? Could be a combo of the vibration from running of the tracks and interference from the power lines that scrambled the computer for a moment.
Don't specifically know if the dealer checked the plugs and coils - that is a good thought. Also, don't know if the tracks have high tension power lines close by. There are some not far from my house (main line between Denver and Co. Springs) but this was up in Ft. Collins, so I honestly don't know.
andre1969 - This might be a long shot, but my 2000 Intrepid had experienced something similar back in 2008. No railroad tracks or bumps involved, but I was just driving along and suddenly it died on me. I put it in neutral, turned the key, and it started right up.
Someone in the Intrepid forum said it sounded like a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor staring to go bad, and that eventually it'll start happening more and more often, and the car will get harder and harder to start. And sure enough, that's what happened!
On the Intrepid at least, the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors won't trigger any computer codes when they go bad. When I took it to the mechanic, he found a vacuum leak and thought that was the problem. And naturally, the car didn't act up for him. He told me to come get it on a Friday, drive it around that weekend to see if it acted up. I didn't have to wait long, as it stalled out before I got home.
The mechanic didn't want to replace those sensors, because he didn't want to just throw parts at the car and hope it works (although he's done that on other occasions. ), but I convinced him to do it, and the car never acted up again in the 1 1/2 months between then and when it got totaled.
Gawd, I hope it's not something as complicated as that!
I guess we'll have to see if the problem reoccurs - there haven't been any problems since the one occurrence on Thursday.
Sigh.
OTOH, I got to scope out the Chevy dealer (they've been designated as an "Authorized Saturn Service Center") - the new Equinox is quite a stunner, both inside and out. They had a black on black LTZ, loaded, for about $33K. If we weren't so buried with the VUE, I think the wife would like it a lot.
you are nit picking looking for excuses to trade it in on the pickup?
LOL, no, not looking for a reason. After a lot of thought I decided against trading on that truck. I don't think I'd be happy with it as a daily driver, at least no where near as happy as I am with the Pilot. 31 months/50k miles and I still love driving the Pilot......go figure.
We had our first few dealerships open up in the last two years here in Parker. A Ford and Chevy store and then a Jeep/Dodge/Chrysler store...all gone now. I'm sure the Ford store was operating earlier in the week, but drove by today and noting. Three fancy new buildings all vacant, not to mention an Applebee's and Black-eyed Pea across the street now gone, pretty sad.
Oh, wow. I knew the CDJ store had been forced to close (as was the CDJ store in Castle Rock), but wasn't aware that Burt was closing their Ford and Chevrolet stores.
That can't have been good on the bottom line. Though they probably made some money by selling the Toyota and Subaru stores on Broadway ... you know they're now called "Groove Toyota" and "Groove Subaru"?
Yep, I noticed that a while back when I took the Civic down for service. I noticed the GMC dealership just south of Schomp was vacant as well, signs say it had moved further north, maybe in with the Chevy store?? What does Burt have left, just the Chevy store on Broadway?
Plus the Ford and Mazda stores on Arapahoe, to my knowledge - I don't get up that way very often now, given that I've been working from home the past 18 months.
Saw that one. For $1500 I could probably live without AWD, although at that point, it probably makes sense to just pay less for a T5.
Not sure about that color. I am sure what my wife would say about it!
I like the interior of the P2 model better anyway.
How is your's doing? Did you get the various maintenance items taken care of? Should last a long time given how clean it seems to be, and the reasonable miles.
So, yesterday, as I was taking my wife to dinner for her birthday, she asks me "How much do you think you could get for selling your car?"
I ask her why and she tells me that there is someone at her work who is interested in buying a car for about $5K and, this person has been known to prefer Saturns.
I tell her that the trade in value for my car is around $4-4.5K, so I could probably get north of $5K in a private sale.
I then ask her what I would do for transportation. She thinks I should find a small, AWD vehicle - we use the VUE for most of our errand running, so I wouldn't need anything huge or fancy.
The idea would be to sell the L300, use the proceeds to pay off the balance of the ION, then get something new / used for me so we would continue to have only 2 car payments.
So, poking around on the 'net this morning, I find this:
nice car. But smaller than what you have. IMO, overpriced for a 2006.
I personally prefer the S60. roomier up front, and much more comfy seats (traditional Volvo thrones). The S40 has smaller, harder seats for some reason.
The S60 by then was also a bit more reliable, and the AWD hasn't been the most reliable part of some Volvos.
See if they have a S60 2.5T AWD to look if you are actually going to consider Volvos.
COULD you pay less for a T5? I'm not so sure. I mean, yeah, its the same price as my '01, but, if clean and low miles, like that saffron one, I'd prefer the '98, frankly. Better reliability and better seats. I think a '98 T5 like that would still be over $6k. At least from JRL.
Mine? Lessee... I think I mentioned I had the software for the trans updated. I changed the fluid in my driveway (what a mess). Changed the rear brakes. I have the spring mounts in hand (XC90 version, which are beefier), but am waiting for nicer weather to do that. I also changed the upper engine mount and lower trans mounts with poly replacements.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Looks pretty good. I'm really not sure on the price. That one is pretty much top-of-the-line, so it is tough to judge. That's the thing with the S40s I've noticed. Starts at $23k, but can go all the way up to the mid $30s. I think that's a huge spread at that price point. I mean, we're talking 50% price increase in options!
And, after having owned a G35X, I think I might pick the S40 myself. Not as peppy, but lighter and more fuel efficient. And, if peppiness is a problem, it is easily tuneable to give much much more.
Going by TMV, seems they have at least another $1k to negotiate.
Although, there is a somewhat common problem with the AWD volvos of recent years. Angle gear failure. It is expensive to fix, too. So, if going this route, CPO is probably the way to go, which would put you right at your $20k ceiling.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
...although, if getting an automatic, you may not like the turbo lag.
Some years ago, I test drove a first gen WRX and found the turbo lag annoying, even with a stick shift.
Ultimately, power isn't really a top priority (though it would be in the top 5) ...
I wouldn't mind a Legacy GT wagon, with a stick. I've always been a sucker for a clean looking wagon, and always appreciated the "Boss Wagon" articles in C/D.
I'd go for a used Subie over a Volvo too. I think they're a bit more reliable and easier to sell once older. If it was a new lease I wouldn't hesitate to go the Volvo way, but not used.
I also think Legacy GT is a fine wagon. Good amounts of space, decent power, nice interior and great exterior looks. You shouldn't have a problem finding them for under $20k.
I'd go for a used Subie over a Volvo too. I think they're a bit more reliable and easier to sell once older. If it was a new lease I wouldn't hesitate to go the Volvo way, but not used.
I've found quite a few gently used Imprezas in my price range, including this one at a dealer in Co Springs:
I also think Legacy GT is a fine wagon. Good amounts of space, decent power, nice interior and great exterior looks. You shouldn't have a problem finding them for under $20k.
I couldn't find any Legacy GT wagons that weren't miled up here in Colorado. But, of course, Subarus are in demand here at this time of year.
Comments
Yes, it does look nice. I'd deduct the price of a set of decent wheels if they are actually chrome(bleh).
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Yeah, BMW NA stuck the nav system in every car(it was optional across the pond). You can ubgrade it to DVD but it still won't be as useful as a $200 Garmin.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
184 HP
That's why my offer was for the car with the blown engine. I could upgrade it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I test drove a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon (not the Outback, the regular wagon), with a stick, and it was a total hoot!
You do hit on a sore spot for me. We'd have bought a Legacy wagon with 5 speed all the way back in 99. It was great! But it was too small. Actually if I realized at the time that my daughters would grow up to be midgets I would have bought it. A used one is definitely on the check out list when the time comes for another car.
Actually I am starting to ponder whether that time might be sooner than I thought. The 00 Accord with 181K on it needs new tires soon. I know it will need a timing belt within the year. I'm starting to think that I might better use that money to move on to the next car.
I've been known at times to hang on to a car to the point where if it runs out of gas it's considered totaled and we're definitely not there yet...
Mark
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Wanting a manual these days must purely be for the driver involvement, huh? Not long ago, the acceleration and mpg numbers always favored the manual, but nowadays it seems for those few cars that offer both trannie options, the automatic is matching if not besting the manual numbers. I don't claim to be very mechanically knowledgable - what's with the modern auto trannies? Is it just 'cause they generally match the manuals in number of gears now?
And am I the only one who is stubborn when it comes to the "manu-shift" automatics? My CX-9 has that, and I've played around with it a little, but don't see the sense in using it on a regular basis - like it's pretending to be something it's not. Kinda like, "No - I drive a real manual, so I won't deign myself to play around with this gimmick."
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
Bruce, my wife's '08 VUE has the 6-speed with the manu-matic option ... we find it useful here in Castle Rock when the weather is bad. Nice to drop it down to a lower gear so we don't have to use the brakes quite so much when coming down slippery hills.
The other 99% of the time it stays in "D".
Different gear ratios. Autos are usually geared taller tha the manual box, which lets them pull lower rpm's on the highway.
Good advice - I imagine the shifting will come in handy in the mountains, going up and down I-70 as well.
2024 Audi Q8 e-tron - 2017 911 C4S - 2025 BRZ - 2023 A6 Allroad - 2024 Genesis GV60 - 2019 Cayman
My wife's X3 and my 2002 are automatics. Everything else has three pedals. I'd prefer a manual in the '02, but you don't come across nice examples every day and the price was right. In any case, I'll convert it to a five speed manual if/when the 3HP12 finally dies...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Why put it off? The sooner that you ditch the slushbox, the sooner (and longer) that you can enjoy the 5-spd. Just do it!
Against my better judgement I test drove it, loved it, and had them appraise the Pilot. I have some equity, not much but a little, price was right on the truck. I managed to walk away, telling myself that I would hate it and couldn't live with it on a daily basis.....yeah right, but anyway.
Then on the way home I came within inches of totaling the Pilot, it was so close! I doubt I stopped an inch from eating Toyota Camry behind while getting an F-350 enema! That reminded me how much I adore my Pilot and how safe it really is. Ever hit the brakes so hard that you override the ABS system? Well, I did, the stability control took over and kept the car straight and got it stopped. Thankfully the F-350 managed to stop before taking out the back of my car. Shaken but relieved I drove home and parked my beloved Pilot back in the garage.
Now back to looking for a cheap truck I can pay cash for and drive once in a while when its needed.
On Thursday, my daughter was driving her '06 ION (33K miles) home from college when she went over a set of railroad tracks and the car stalled on her (she had power to the radio, the engine just died). She was able to get to the side of the road and restart the car and drive home.
We took it to the dealer yesterday, and - naturally - they couldn't find anything wrong. Drove the car over numerous bumps - nothing. No codes in the computer to be pulled.
Any thoughts? We've owned the car since new 3 1/2 years ago and have never had a problem like this.
I'm afraid this might cause some trust issues to develop. The daughter drives home from college every weekend - about 100 miles one way.
We took it to the dealer yesterday, and - naturally - they couldn't find anything wrong. Drove the car over numerous bumps - nothing. No codes in the computer to be pulled
Eh I have poor mechanical skills :P but it sounds to me like a loose wire/short somewhere. It could be a bad/flakey ground going to the fuel pump, powertrain computer, or ignition system. You need air, fuel and spark for the thing to work, so if it died, it wasn't getting one of those. I could also have been something transient like the bump knocked an air pocket loose in the fuel system or something, but in a FE car with that much fuel pressure, I don't know how likely it is.
Could be lose plug wires or a coil that is going out. I can't remember if the Ion is coil on plug, has a separate coil for each plug, or if it has one or two coils off to the side then wires running to the plugs from the coil/s.
I imagine it is coil on plug though. You would think the dealership would have checked that but well they may not have. Could have been just something totally random too. Are their high tension power lines near the railroad tracks? Could be a combo of the vibration from running of the tracks and interference from the power lines that scrambled the computer for a moment.
Well, the engine and slushbox were both rebuilt @9,000 before I bought the car, so I figure that I might as well get some use out of it. On top of that, my son wants to drive it when he gets his license, and I think he shouldn't deal with a manual right away(he'll learn the intricacies of driving a stick on my Wrangler).
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
25 NX 450h+ / 24 Sienna Plat AWD / 23 Civic Type-R / 21 Boxster GTS 4.0
You have to get that new/used truck to pull your TT this Summer! Get Busy!
Mark
It was fine for about a week or two, but then it did it again. Someone in the Intrepid forum said it sounded like a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor staring to go bad, and that eventually it'll start happening more and more often, and the car will get harder and harder to start. And sure enough, that's what happened!
On the Intrepid at least, the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors won't trigger any computer codes when they go bad. When I took it to the mechanic, he found a vacuum leak and thought that was the problem. And naturally, the car didn't act up for him. He told me to come get it on a Friday, drive it around that weekend to see if it acted up. I didn't have to wait long, as it stalled out before I got home.
The mechanic didn't want to replace those sensors, because he didn't want to just throw parts at the car and hope it works (although he's done that on other occasions.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2025 VW GTI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
LOL, well its Valentine's Day and the only thing I bought was a used futon. I was kinda grumbling about it not fitting in the Pilot, but after taking it all apart we managed to squish it in there. Hubby said "see, if we had a truck we could have saved a lot of time"
I think I'll stay on the wagon for a while longer......maybe wait until the TT is paid off next year.
On another note, the Pilot is having this weird issue with the driver's side parking light, about 1/2 the time it won't come on unless I smack it hard. I've looked at all the wires, everything "looks" ok. Any ideas?
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
lilengineerboy - It could be a bad/flakey ground going to the fuel pump, powertrain computer, or ignition system. You need air, fuel and spark for the thing to work, so if it died, it wasn't getting one of those. I could also have been something transient like the bump knocked an air pocket loose in the fuel system or something, but in a FE car with that much fuel pressure, I don't know how likely it is.
The dealer checked all the electronic connections - in and out of the various computers, etc. Nothing loose or in need of being tightened.
british_rover - Sounds like it lost spark for a moment when the vibration from driving over the railroad tracks hit the ignition.
Could be lose plug wires or a coil that is going out. I can't remember if the Ion is coil on plug, has a separate coil for each plug, or if it has one or two coils off to the side then wires running to the plugs from the coil/s.
I imagine it is coil on plug though. You would think the dealership would have checked that but well they may not have. Could have been just something totally random too. Are their high tension power lines near the railroad tracks? Could be a combo of the vibration from running of the tracks and interference from the power lines that scrambled the computer for a moment.
Don't specifically know if the dealer checked the plugs and coils - that is a good thought. Also, don't know if the tracks have high tension power lines close by. There are some not far from my house (main line between Denver and Co. Springs) but this was up in Ft. Collins, so I honestly don't know.
andre1969 - This might be a long shot, but my 2000 Intrepid had experienced something similar back in 2008. No railroad tracks or bumps involved, but I was just driving along and suddenly it died on me. I put it in neutral, turned the key, and it started right up.
Someone in the Intrepid forum said it sounded like a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor staring to go bad, and that eventually it'll start happening more and more often, and the car will get harder and harder to start. And sure enough, that's what happened!
On the Intrepid at least, the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors won't trigger any computer codes when they go bad. When I took it to the mechanic, he found a vacuum leak and thought that was the problem. And naturally, the car didn't act up for him. He told me to come get it on a Friday, drive it around that weekend to see if it acted up. I didn't have to wait long, as it stalled out before I got home.
The mechanic didn't want to replace those sensors, because he didn't want to just throw parts at the car and hope it works (although he's done that on other occasions. ), but I convinced him to do it, and the car never acted up again in the 1 1/2 months between then and when it got totaled.
Gawd, I hope it's not something as complicated as that!
I guess we'll have to see if the problem reoccurs - there haven't been any problems since the one occurrence on Thursday.
Sigh.
OTOH, I got to scope out the Chevy dealer (they've been designated as an "Authorized Saturn Service Center") - the new Equinox is quite a stunner, both inside and out. They had a black on black LTZ, loaded, for about $33K. If we weren't so buried with the VUE, I think the wife would like it a lot.
LOL, no, not looking for a reason. After a lot of thought I decided against trading on that truck. I don't think I'd be happy with it as a daily driver, at least no where near as happy as I am with the Pilot. 31 months/50k miles and I still love driving the Pilot......go figure.
That can't have been good on the bottom line. Though they probably made some money by selling the Toyota and Subaru stores on Broadway ... you know they're now called "Groove Toyota" and "Groove Subaru"?
If I didn't already have my '01, I'd be very tempted by that. I'd take it as FWD, by the way.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Not sure about that color. I am sure what my wife would say about it!
I like the interior of the P2 model better anyway.
How is your's doing? Did you get the various maintenance items taken care of? Should last a long time given how clean it seems to be, and the reasonable miles.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I ask her why and she tells me that there is someone at her work who is interested in buying a car for about $5K and, this person has been known to prefer Saturns.
I tell her that the trade in value for my car is around $4-4.5K, so I could probably get north of $5K in a private sale.
I then ask her what I would do for transportation. She thinks I should find a small, AWD vehicle - we use the VUE for most of our errand running, so I wouldn't need anything huge or fancy.
The idea would be to sell the L300, use the proceeds to pay off the balance of the ION, then get something new / used for me so we would continue to have only 2 car payments.
So, poking around on the 'net this morning, I find this:
Whaddya think?
I know next to nothing about Volvos, so don't know if this is a good price or not. I'd like to keep the transaction price under $20K if I did this.
If it matters, I also received a coupon from GM entitling me to either $1K or $2K on a new '09 or '10 GM vehicle as a loyal Saturn customer.
I personally prefer the S60. roomier up front, and much more comfy seats (traditional Volvo thrones). The S40 has smaller, harder seats for some reason.
The S60 by then was also a bit more reliable, and the AWD hasn't been the most reliable part of some Volvos.
See if they have a S60 2.5T AWD to look if you are actually going to consider Volvos.
My next car I hope is a V70 2.5T, Maybe.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Mine? Lessee... I think I mentioned I had the software for the trans updated. I changed the fluid in my driveway (what a mess). Changed the rear brakes. I have the spring mounts in hand (XC90 version, which are beefier), but am waiting for nicer weather to do that. I also changed the upper engine mount and lower trans mounts with poly replacements.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
And, after having owned a G35X, I think I might pick the S40 myself. Not as peppy, but lighter and more fuel efficient. And, if peppiness is a problem, it is easily tuneable to give much much more.
Going by TMV, seems they have at least another $1k to negotiate.
Although, there is a somewhat common problem with the AWD volvos of recent years. Angle gear failure. It is expensive to fix, too. So, if going this route, CPO is probably the way to go, which would put you right at your $20k ceiling.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
In this price range, there are a bunch of Subaru's - both Impreza's (4 and 5 door) and the odd Legacy sedan.
I did see a couple of G35x's as well under $20K, but they seemed to be from independent dealers or private owners.
I am using AutoTrader, as that gives me the ability to filter on the most criteria.
... although, if getting an automatic, you may not like the turbo lag.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Some years ago, I test drove a first gen WRX and found the turbo lag annoying, even with a stick shift.
Ultimately, power isn't really a top priority (though it would be in the top 5) ...
I wouldn't mind a Legacy GT wagon, with a stick. I've always been a sucker for a clean looking wagon, and always appreciated the "Boss Wagon" articles in C/D.
I also think Legacy GT is a fine wagon. Good amounts of space, decent power, nice interior and great exterior looks. You shouldn't have a problem finding them for under $20k.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
I've found quite a few gently used Imprezas in my price range, including this one at a dealer in Co Springs:
'09 Impreza Premium
I also think Legacy GT is a fine wagon. Good amounts of space, decent power, nice interior and great exterior looks. You shouldn't have a problem finding them for under $20k.
I couldn't find any Legacy GT wagons that weren't miled up here in Colorado. But, of course, Subarus are in demand here at this time of year.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX