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VW Jetta TDI



  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    Yes, I will use a hose...and actually, I thought of that later. I was referring to the clutch bleeder and then thought that surely I can attach a hose to that as well.

    Well, after going deeper into the How to logs, I found one piece about doing the "zero" thing and it seems that it does not pertain to what I am going to do, and no one else mentions it either.

    Thanks for the info, and the tips, and I will let you know the good news!

    p. s. Motive bleeder has been shipped and is on the way.
  • indytdiindytdi Posts: 2
    Thanks for all of your help! I DID buy the '06 Jetta TDI. I have only had for less than 2 weeks and have put on nearly 1000 miles. Drives real smooth, getting 44 mpg, and I am very, VERY happy w/ my decision.

    Some other questions:
    1)The owner's manual states oil changes every 10K miles. Is that correct?
    2)What is the best way to clean off the black residue around the muffler?
    3)Any additives that anyone would recommend to help prolong the life of my Jetta?
    Thanks again
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    1)The owner's manual states oil changes every 10K miles. Is that correct?
    Yes, you MUST use the proper specified VW505.01 oil. The 1st 2 OCI (Oil Change Interval) is at 5,000 and 10,000 miles. Therafter, OCI is every 10,000 miles.

    There have been several reports of ruined engines by folks that used the wrong oil ONE TIME. The failure does not occour immedeately, but several thousand miles later. Make CERTAIN that only oil approved for for your Pumpe Duse TDI engine is used.

    2)What is the best way to clean off the black residue around the muffler? I dont get any residue...but I would try hot-water and your favorite carwash detergent.

    3)Any additives that anyone would recommend to help prolong the life of my Jetta? Many folks use an additive at every fillup. I use the PowerService brand available at Wallmart. (Grey bottle in summer and White bottle in winter)
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    2)What is the best way to clean off the black residue around the muffler?

    The best way is to avoid it all together. You should try some different fuels and see if that helps. Crappy diesel smokes more which is causing the residue. I try to run BP Diesel Supreme and get zero smoke even at cold start. In me experience, premium diesel make the TDI runs better, quieter, improved mpg, and no smoke. Win, win, win, win.
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    You already hav lots of good advice here - great bunch of people. Ref the black residue around the end of the tailpipe; my car has a twin-pipe stainless steel tailpiece and that does get a bit mucky after lots of town driving. I generally spray it with a good wheel-cleaner, (I use Autoglym), let it stand for a minute or so then brush with warm soapy water, (car shampoo), and rinse. Works pretty well and no effects on the tailpiece after 2+ years, (and no reason why there should be, really).

    As for additives to help "prolong the life" of your TDi; how long do you want it to last ? As I have reported elsewhere on Edmunds, our local taxi guy has recently given his wife his old Skoda Octavia 1.9TDi, (it's a Golf in a different body etc), and she is now using it as her daily driver. He bought a new one. The point of my ramble is that his old Octavia was just over 4 years old and had over 400k miles on it - with no breakdowns - just routine servicing and normal replacement of things like tyres. He did not & does not use any additives. So, how much over 400k miles do you want it to go for ? In my opinion, and that of others here in Europe, additives for fuel and engine oil are wasted money............provided you buy good fuel and the correct lube, (absolutely a must). The fuel system is designed to cope with ULSD, which we've had in Europe for some years. However, we don't see your very low temps over here so adding some anti-gelling agent to the fuel as appropriate may well be necessary but check what the fuel producer says about his fuel's low temp performance. Same with block heaters. Never even seen one advertised here, although I could imagine their usefulness in the northern Nordic area perhaps.

    Anyway, that's the word from a UK TDi owner, (Skoda Fabia vRS, (based on the VW Polo), 1.9, 130bhp, 6-spd manual), who loves these engines. My car will likely be changed later this year and I'm finding it very difficult to get away from TDi even though the Honda 2.2 diesels are very good I'm not a big fan of the Accord or new Civic. So, likely new car will be a Skoda Octavia vRS with the 2.0 TDi - 170bhp/258lbft/6spd manual in either 5-door hatch or estate, (wagon ?), guise. :) Would love the DSG to go with it, but not offered at present. :cry:

    Enjoy your TDi for many years to come. It was a good decision IMHO :D
  • pruzinkpruzink Posts: 112
    For those of you looking for a quick and simple way to bleed brakes without spending a lot of $$ I have found speedbleeders to be very simple to use. Its just a bleeder with a check valve built into it. You just pump your pedal with the valve open and the check valve keeps the brake fluid/air from getting sucked back when you release the pedal (don't need 2 people with one pumping pedal and the other opening and closing bleeder as check valve makes it unnecesary). This is the link:
  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    Speaking of all this black residue on the tip of the tail pipes made me think. Does VW carry a stainless tip for the 2006 Jetta TDI. Last time I checked they didn't and I was stuck with the factory tail pipe. It does look a little dirty which is normal as it heats & cools along with all the road dirt, No soot really should be building up however due to exhaust fumes. I use Stanadyne One Shot Performance Formula at every fill up. Only costs about $2CDN extra every fill. I will see cost on mr bpeebles Power service brand, not too sure if it is avaible in Canada though.

    alltorque what type of stainless tip on your exhaust are you using?

  • I think you'll find that they reccomend waiting 10,000 miles between oil changes if you operate your car only in "optimum conditions". NO CITY driving, NO DUSTY situations, ETC. An oil change every 3,000 miles is your best defense against sending your car to an early grave. Ask anyone you see that drives a classic car, how they managed to keep it running all those years and most will tell you "change your oil every 3,000 miles".
    Diesel First Aid is an excellent additive for winter weather, I have used it for 5 years, living in Vermont and never had a problem.
    Best of luck to you with your new car
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    Years of experience of VAG TDi engines in Europe show that 10,000 mile oil changes are fine. There is no need to change every 3,000 miles - but you MUST use the correct engine oil : VW 505.01 spec or you will surely get premature failure.

    The reason that the "Classics" guys tend to short oil-change intervals is simply that the materials, tolerances, fuels, lubes and filters were all inferior to those available today. Fuels were "dirtier" and tolerances allowed much more fuel and combustion residue to be blown back into the oil sump - plus oil formulations that could only tolerate a relatively small amount of such detritus. When was the last time you ever heard of anyone needing to "de-coke" an engine ? Doesn't happen and that is courtesy of the advances made in those areas. This is not hearsay; I used to work in the Lubes Division of the biggest of the oil majors and have seen the evidence. The internals of modern engines running on modern fuels, (and especially ULSD), and lubes remain very clean throughout their long life.

    Lube oils are formulated to meet the requirements of the engine manufacturers, (and those specs are tight), and putting in "Additives" may actually be detrimental. If you take a VW 505.01 spec oil and add something to it, it is no longer a VW 505.01 spec oil. Of course, if you want to change oil at 3,000 mile intervals please carry on - buy the right brand and you're helping toward my thank you in advance. :)

    In response to sean9, (post 1301), the stainless tip on my Skoda exhaust is the factory fit unit : oval section with two outlets. This tip is not used on any other VW sub-brand and, even at Skoda, is only used on the Fabia and Octavia vRS models. Guess it's a marketing thing to distinguish these "sportier" variants. A picture would save a thousand words.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    "VW 505.01 spec or you will surely get premature failure."

    For the sake of the greater audience, you might want to SWAG some numbers to your above quote! :)

    Correct specified oil is de rigor. Getting it "correct" for the VW is important if not critical.

    My normal OCI for a 2003 Jetta TDI with 5w40 Mobil One Truck & SUV aka Delvac One 5w40, is at 20-25k. (calculated to take it to 25,000 after the warranty was over, but to be at 10,000 miles at warranty expiration!?) The engine has consumed 1/4 to 1/2 quart (8-16 oz) per 20-22k miles. So I tend to top up near the end of the OCI.

    I just recently changed the air filter after 50,000 miles. Even at that it looked good to go to a min of 60,000 if not 80k miles. The oem recommendation of course is 40k. I routinely run this through the Mojave Desert. The dirty side was indeed sandy. I ran a hot soapy water terry cloth squeezed over the clean side (parts) and there was NO visible dirt.

    So additionally, I was indeed pleasantly surprized when I changed the cabin filter at 91,000 miles. Yes it was dirty, but not overly so. The clean side was in fact still clean, and to make doubly sure I ran a hot soapy water terry cloth squeezed over the clean side and there was NO visible dirt.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    The 100% cotton terry cloth was WHITE, I might add.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    "An oil change every 3,000 miles is your best defense against sending your car to an early grave."

    NO NO NO NO -- I cannot say it enough times. Please do not perpetuate the old 3,000 mile OCI. Only people that get PAYED to change oil will tell you this.

    The technology of motoroil has improved since the dark ages and can EASIILY go a lot more than 3,000 miles. You are wasting your $$ and the envrionment by draining oil that has more life in it.

    From the perspective of the VW TDI engine... the 10,000 mile OCI has been PROVEN over millions of miles. There are some people that send oil-samples to be tested every 2,000 miles. This testing has shown that the VW-specd. oil can easiily go over 15,000 miles without breaking down.

    IN FACT: This testing has shown that an engine wears MORE during the 1st couple 1000 miles after an oilchange. You would actually be creating MORE wear by changing more frequently.
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    AMEN. Here endeth the first Lesson. The next Lesson will be "I always let my car idle for 10 minutes before driving off". Aaaaarrrrgggghhhhh !

    Used to have a neighbour who did this every day and wondered why his exhaust system rotted away on a regular basis. This was back in the days of leaded/high-suphur fuels. Same guy had an Austin Maxi, (rather like an overgrown Mini, (original, not BMW 1-Series thing). Engine oil also lubed the gearbox and OCI was 6,000 miles. He used to change every 3,000 miles because "You oil guys are in league with the car manufacturers and only say it's a 6,000 mile OCI so that they can sell me a new engine every couple of years". And this guy was doing a PhD in something un-pronounceable, (he didn't get it, though).

    Ain't folk wonderful ?

    Love this Forum; so much more civilised than some others. Thank you all and have a great Easter.
  • repoman1repoman1 Posts: 64
    Date posted: 04-05-2007

    NEW YORK — U.S. fans of the Volkswagen Jetta SportWagen now have a clue about when the vehicle is bound for their local dealership. The automaker on Wednesday set the timetable for the U.S. launch of the car, starting in August with the 2.5-liter Jetta SportWagen that uses the 170-horsepower 2.5-liter five-cylinder engine.

    The launch of the base model will be followed with the 2.0T Jetta SportWagen that gets the 200-hp four-cylinder engine in the fall. In early 2008, the Jetta SportWagen will be available with a 2.0-liter clean diesel engine.

    Prices have not yet been announced.

    The SportWagen's standard features include air-conditioning, anti-theft vehicle alarm, cruise control, CD player, traction control, antilock brakes and eight-way adjustable front seats. A panoramic sunroof is optional.

    What this means to you: Now you have a schedule in hand for when the sprightly SportWagen can end up in your driveway.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    That 2.0 diesel engine is VW's new engine. It replaces the old/very old/ancient 1.9l TDI engine. It should be optional in all 2008 jetta body styles. Likely to be sold in Rabbits, Passats, and EOS too.

    I would soo buy a jetta if it came with a panoramic roof. Couldn't they just make it optional on the jetta sedan!!

    Also expect a 6CYL diesel for the Touareg SUV's refresh.

  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    I heard so much(and contributed to) information on the Jetta TDI's torquiness. My question: How is the TDI at speed where HP begins to count more than torque? Also, how is the interior noise when at speed?

    I've heard how the jetta 2.5 has a raspy tone and has a quiet sound level when at speed. How is the TDI.

    -Considering a Jetta 2.5/TDI or an Acura Tsx for next purchase and a Tom-tom.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    How is the TDI at speed where HP begins to count more than torque?

    That is when the torque really shines.

    Most 4 cylinder gasser engines need to be downshifted to attempt a pass.... not so with the TDI.

    The TDI engine can pass with EASE by just applying some throttle. No need to downshift and the passing-power is right there.

    Dont take my word for it, testDrive if you can get your hands on one.

    Have you ever heard the old addage of "people buy horsepower... but DRIVE torque"? Any driving that requires a CHANGE IN SPEED is improved with torque....NOT horsewpower

    PS: Your perception of torque -vs- horsepower may be misled... Are you aware that Horsepower numbers are DERIVED from torque and RPM? (In other words, HP and torque are not mutually-exclusive.)
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Agree with the above, you really should try driving one. And if you want to pass at 70mph...don't redline it. Just ease into it and you'll take off like a rocket. I see folks say these are sluggish at highway speeds, but they apparently just don't know how to drive them. High rpm's are not your friend on a diesel. You'll soon find the sweet spot in the power band and that's where you want to be.

    And don't forget how easily you can add go-juice to the diesel. IMHO these motors are just adequate with stock power, but with a little tuning they can be quite fun to drive. I run fairly "swiftly" and still get mid-40's. My son has a RSX type S that I drive occasionally and I get a whopping 24mpg average driving it in my typical style. Granted it's a lot faster, but I don't get on it that hard. And that thing requires 2-3 gear down shifts to pull hills where my TDI will idle up them in 5th.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    Folks, let's be realistic: the VW Jetta TDIs are not rockets on the highway or anywhere else.
    These cars are underpowered and have barely adequate torque.
    The torque is a "saving grace", especially noticeable for passing uphill on highways. But even with the decent amount of torque, there is just no way to consider a jetta TDI as a "rocket". These cars are SLUGS. Awesome slugs though!
    Acura TSX is a way different sort of ride to cross-shop - probably testdriving each vehicle will help you to decide.

    Fwiw, the 04/05 Passat TDI is WAY stronger than any the jetta TDIs and is less of a slug.
    247 ftlb for the Passat TDI!
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    A lot of so called V8 "rockets" are truly surprised both when I pass them and when they try to catch up on long uphill stretches at altitude (2000-6000 ft). And I am not pulling "NASCAR blocking maneuvers", as I pass on the left and pull over to the right lane. (or vice versa if the situation dictates) I basically lose them in two area's, the first sentence describes two, and when they need to stop for fuel at a much shorter interval than the TDI. :) A 15 min stop for fuel will let me put easily 23 miles between us.

    So I think you do it a real injustice to call the TDI a slug, and some of those so called "rockets" rockets.
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    Agree with all of the above. Yes, the 1.9TDi engine is now a bit long in the tooth but still a cracking workhorse. My Fabia with the 130bhp/228lbft 1.9 TDi will happily cruise at 80mph in 6th, at around 2400rpm, then get up and go on to it's max without any drama or downshifting along with the best of them. If you really want to scare the 3-series then just drop into 5th and boot it.

    As the man said; it's all about torque and these TDi's have it in glorious amounts.

    The 2.0 TDi/140bhp engine is now in all VAG models across the Brand range and the 170bhp version is available in all Brands, (VW, Audi, Skoda, SEAT), to a lesser degree. The new Skoda Fabia is now announced, (that's based on the VW Polo), and will have the 2.0TDi/140bhp motor in the top-of-the-range vRS derivative. No DSG, though, it seems. Still, it should be both a hoot and economical.

    You will surely (?) get the 2.0TDi/140bhp motor and if you get the 170bhp version you just have to drive it.................after all, smiling exercises more facial muscles than frowning so why settle for anything less ?

    Here in Europe, the Touareg, along with the Audi A4 and A6 has the 3.0TDi which puts out 369lbsft @1750rpm and 220bhp. The A8 is available with the 4.2TDi but that's way out of my price range. :cry:
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    Whilst I agree that TDi-engined cars tend not to be 0-60 rockets, I have always thought that using this sprint time as a measure of everyday performance was somewhat lacking in real world driving. Mid-range performance for overtaking etc is much more realistic, as is economy. The TDi's deliver real world performance from relatively small displacement engines. Having said that; the 2.0TDi/170bhp hauls the current Skoda Octavia vRS to 62mph in around 7.5 secs which is not too bad for a Golf in a bigger body.

    If you really think they are "slugs" then I truly do not want to be in your garden after dusk :)
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Dear sir or madam: I am a former professional race car driver and have driven/owned many sports cars. I'm not living in some fog where I've never driven a high performance vehicle. With a few tuning mods, the TDI is indeed quite rocket-like at highway speeds (well, not a real rocket that blasts into space, i'll give you that). Even stock, it has quite reasonable highway passing abilities without the redline drama required by many other vehicles. If you feel it's a slug on the highway you either have something wrong with the vehicle or are not driving it properly.

    Now in other situations, there are some dead areas in the powerband and even with mods and a clutch roasting launch, mine will only hit 60mph in about 8 seconds. Certainly not fast, but in certain situations this is one of the strongest and most easy to drive vehicles at high velocities. If you like to drag-race, then it's not the greatest but as an object in motion, the TDI likes to stay in motion.

    I've never personally purchased a 4cyl car besides the Jetta TDI. The work required to propel them at a reasonable clip typically annoys me. In the past I've always commuted with V6 powered cars (and filled up a lot more often.....)
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    Dear sir or madam former professional race car driver:
    All 4 of my TDIs have operated just fine including the current pair. I've had about 120k miles and 4 years to learn how to drive these wonderful slugmobiles in order to get max performance.
    I'm not into "modding" my cars; I'm not talking about modded TDIs.
    If you think that a stock jetta/golf/beetle TDI resembles an actual fast car in any way/shape/form at any speed/rpm/altitude, then you were not driving your race cars & actually-fast-street-cars properly.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    I think by your response, it is one of ego rather than an evaluation of the TDI.

    I think that if you read the threads much there are a host of folks who are thankful for driving tips when driving the TDI, and that is even after driving it a while. Many folks indeed drive them less than optimiumly. Whether you do or not remains unknown.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    thanks ruking1. I like that other forum too, but edmunds is my "#1 forum", lucky for all you readers ;)
    For accelerating as fast as possible in whatever condition, my SOTP-meter works fine for that.
    My right foot is beyond "leadfoot" - I have neutron-star-foot.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    Perhaps your real desire is for a 0-60, 4 sec diesel? One of the folks that follows one of the diesel threads has posted a 70 mpg, 48 mpg on race day, 4 or 5 sec, 0-60 mph, TT diesel link! Obviously the Jetta TDI is NOT that animal. Do a search.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    4 second 0-60 diesel TT? neat. i won't hold my breath for that to be available in showrooms, but if anything resembling it shows up, I'll take a look.
    Currently when I get tired of TDI-ing and being tailgated/cut-off/disrespected by highway commuters due to how slow it is, I bust out my 05 GTO 6-speed for a few days until I get that whole Dr-Jekyll/Mr-Hyde thing out of my system. (Aggressive drivers get peeved & tailgate TDI massively & sometimes pass-on-left-shoulder when I leave a safe distance in front of my car - when all travel lanes are packed. I always keep right if there's space to do so. With the GTO I rarely get tailgated/disrespected, especially after I "demonstrate" that I'm happy to slow down gradually to the minimum legal highway speed and then rocket to 80 or more to catch up to the ~75 mph left-lane-traffic, at safe distance.)
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    If you're being tailgated/cut-off/disrepected because any (non-modded included) TDI can't keep up with traffic there's only two explanations then (since you claim they're in tip-top operating condition).

    1. You have something stuck under your accelerator input device.

    2. Your legs are too short.



    Need another gear or two............
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    I am confused on the driving style aspect. It is hard for most folks to "tail gate" if you are driving in the 95 plus percentile.:)

    The other side of it, if you are in the 95 plus percentile in TRAFFIC, it is YOU that is doing the tailgating. :( :)
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