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VW Jetta TDI



  • highenderhighender Posts: 1,365
    welcome mortster:

    When was your fuel filter last changed ? Sometimes diry diesel fuel will slowly clog up your fuel filter. After a while, the engine is starved for fuel, and shuts down. A simple fuel filter change will work, if it has not been changed....Really easy to do.....go to tdi problems

    where do you live, and does it get really cold ? If your local temps drops below 40 deg, you may have gelling issues. This also causes problems in starting.

    Check battery. Cold starting diesels uses a lot of power. You need a good battery.

    glow plugs and intake manifolds could be issues, though in general, they are not.
  • jkinzeljkinzel Posts: 735
    Opinions please. Went to the local VW dealer Saturday and did some test drives of a 2006 and a used 2005.
    We looked at but did not drive a 2004 Jetta as we ran out of time.

    Dealer called this morning and said they would take a $1000 off the top with out even talking.

    What it is: Certified VW used car Wheat and beige 2004 Jetta TDI, 42000 miles. Paint has two minor scuff marks, very small no body damage. Clear front end mask applied to paint. Rear plastic bumper has a puncture from the inside out and a slight scuff mark in the same area on the left side.
    It has after market chrome rims so I’m assuming that it was owned by some in their twenties.

    Asking $21999

    Thought I might offer $20,000, give me $2000 for my 93 Explorer and replace the wheels with stock VW wheels.

    I would like to see it the bottom line closer to $16,000 than $18,000, but then I’m cheap.
  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    33,00km on my Jetta TDI 06. Engine light came on while driving in the city and remains on. The car seems to idle a little rough but still goes ok. ANy thoughts on what it could be? I was told unless the engine light is flashing I should be ok to drive the car with the engine light on. Is this true? Cant get it into the Dealership until next week. Thank goodness it will be under warranty as a simple troubleshooting scan is an easy 100 dollars these days.

  • vwinvavwinva Posts: 71
    Use the Used Car estimator on to see if the price is par for your zip code. Ditto for trade in on Cherokee. I would ask to have the chips and dings repaired as well.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Yes - Safe to drive unless CEL is flashing.

    BTW: There is no need to ever PAY for a "troubleshooting scan". Many autoparts stores will scan for the codes FREE OF CHARGE.

    Of course, it is the SKILL to diagnose a problem using the results of a "troubleshooting scan" which costs.
  • I have 70K miles on my 2001 TDI and the engine light came on at 40,000 miles. They tell me that VW wants you to take it in for the 40K check and spend $400.
  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    Actually i miss typed there I have 33,000km on my car not 3300. I also noticed it says emissions service on the display when I start the car. My guess is that it is some sensor for the exhaust that has failed. I am no where near 40,000miles yet, however I did not know the 06' had a engine light come on at an exact milage. Bpeebles do you know about this? To me it should be up to the owner of the car to decide if he wants to service the car at the recommended interval. Not up to the car! LOL
  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    I finally got my car in to get the engine light looked into. I was only at the service shop for an hour when they told me is was a sporatic fault not really caused by anything! :confuse: What the heck does that mean I asked, they told me it could be a sensor affected by temp changes or atmospheric pressure. They told me they rest the engine light and I should now be ok. Anyways, I shaked my head and said ok. 2 days later the light cam on again with the "Emission Workshop" showing up on the dash. I am taking the car back yet AGAIN :mad: for the same problem. I really think they just blew me off. Anyways I will not be leaving without answers tomorrow.


    If anyone knows what the heck that fault code is that may be helpful.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I looked up the fault code you list above. It is listed as the following 2; (They may both mean the same thing)

    P0183 ==> Fuel Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit High

    P0183 ==> Fuel temperature sender-G81 Interruption/Short to B+

    If I recall correctly you have an 2006 TDI. The temparture of the fuel is "sensed" and that modifies the way the fuel injection signals.

    You may just have a poor connection to the sensor. (I am not certain where the sensor is on the PD engine... The sensor on my TDI is inside the injector pump)
  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    Yes you are right. I had the car in today and that is what they told me the fault code was. And it would sporatically change on the diagnostic computer between the 2 descriptions you have mentioned. Funny enough the dealership told me that it was a loose wire to that sensor that was causing the issue. They sent me home after reseting the engine light and once again told me it will be ok. Not 5 min on my way home the light came on again. So I turned around and went straight back. I got to watch the technician this time hook up the computer to read the error code and inspect the sensor. In case anyone is wondering the sensor is located under the main plastic cover and connected to the stainless fuel tubing on your right hand side. Can not miss it. Easy access. The connection was good however the actuall temperature reading was -30deg C which was good cause for the engine light with the P0183 error code. When you unplugged the sensor and reconnected, the temperature reading would go back to a normal reading, take the car for a short spin and back to -30 and P0183. Anyways, will have to go back AGAIN for trip #3 to get this fixed as now they want to change out the sensor but didnt have any in stock today BIG:surprise: . Until then I just hope the fuel injection ratio will be ok for me to drive, I have to wait until next Thursday.

    Also on a side note, made me laugh 2 older women in the service waiting room both had their TDI's in to get the interior heaters looked at because they were complaining that is was too cold in the cab. Both brand new cars. It has been -25C here last week, I tried explaining to them that having the heat maxed out and the fan on high on cold days will not help the interior warm up faster, instead turning the heat down and letting the engine warm up and run in a lower gear to get the rpms up is your only option. All i got was very suprised looks. :surprise:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is good to hear that they have orderd a fuel temp. sensor for you. Let us know how that works out. (under warantee I hope)

    As for the 2 women complaining about too little interier heat.... most folks do not realize that the interior heat comes from wasted heat from THE ENGINE. The sacrifice for high efficency is very little wasted heat.

    That reminds me of a company that was "testing" an electric car here in Vermont a few years back. It was great in the summertime... but in subzero weather, it was waaayyyy too cold for anyone to sit in it for very long. They tried adding a propane heater to the electric car just to keep the occupants warm. In the end, they concluded that a battery-operated car is not feasable in cold climates.
  • I'm looking at getting the new Jetta. My commute is 90 mi round trip. The Jetta Diesel has really good mpg spec. I've never owned a diesel car before. Can someone give a quick summary of the PROS and CONS to a diesel car? Thanks in advance.
  • indytdiindytdi Posts: 2
    I have been on the fence on buying a new TDI jetta. HAve had larger cars/suv's in past but all I really need is a dependable car that is fun to drive and ideally gets great gas mileage.
    1)Should I wait to get the new TDI engine in '08 or is the '06 model perfectly fine (and will be for years to come)?
    2)I am between a '07 Wolfsburg Jetta vs. '06 TDI Jetta. Price basically the same. Any advice? Thanks.
  • Alright, there are a few things you should know about the older diesels, and the newer ones.
    1. the lifespan of the new diesels are unknown because of the complexity of the exhaust system. noone knows if they are going to last, or if they are going to slowly wind down and have a normal 100,000 mile life expectancy which would serve no point if you are buying a diesel for it's longevity and fuel economy.
    2. the diesel fuels are becoming cleaner. Diesel emissions are usually worse for people but better in the longrun for the environment than gasoline. There are new diesel fuels that are coming out that are actually cleaner than most standard gas, one of the best things sine taking lead out of gasoline 35 years ago. and the best thing about it is that it will work with all diesel engines, old and new. I believe that fuel is 97% ethanol free, or something like that. The other good thing is that (after time) you can run vegetable oil or used cooking grease in the car. This is what this 'bio' fuels are made from. bio-fuels consist of corn biproducts that are in liquid form. Normal gasoline bio-fuel still needs alot of oil in order to make it work in gasoline engines, diesels on the other hand need NO extra refinement and therefore saves the environment that much more.
    3. The new inspection standards for diesels mean that any diesel vehicle pre-2007 needs no emissions check, they just check the lights, brakes, shocks, etc. (according to nj and ny emissions laws. Diesels cannot be sold in California yet) But the new diesels, with complexity of the exhaust will make the emissions test that much more rigorous, even harder than normal gasoline engine tests. If that fails you are basically screwed because to fix that exhaust will cost an arm and a leg.
    4. Diesels get AMAZING fuel efficiency, normal 32-36 in city and a good 40-45 highway. I live in the most populated areas of new jersey and i get roughly 32 city and 43 highway, and that's with stopping every ten feet. My '06 jetta has only 13000 miles on it so the gas mileage can only go up. This saves the environment, even with dirty diesel fuel, and it also saves money on buying gas (although usually 20-30 cents more per gallon than regular unleaded) but also, some insurance companies give discounts for diesels.
    5. diesels last forever. I had a few problems with mine. The clutch and transmission both went before 7000 miles and i had to get both replaced. i believe that was just a fluke because i have only read of one other person with that kind of problem. Since then i've had no problems. Diesels usually last a good 200-300 thousand miles without ever breaking down, and luckily they are less noisy than those old Mercedes and Buick diesels 20 years ago.
    i recommend the diesels alot because of the fuel economy, cleaner fuels being released, and new peppiness added with the longevity of the engines. I love my '06 Jetta TDI and wouldn't trade it for anything, especially not the new diesels because of the complexity of them. It's faster than my '01 ford focus (not anywhere near as fast as my '87 toyota mr2), and cheaper in gas and insurance. That has evened out with the fact that there are no diesel mechanics around the corner. You HAVE to go to the dealership to get things done, and you must do it in a timely manner. A typical oil change costs about 80 dollars and they are a volkswagen trained service department so be prepared for lots of attitude and things not always done right the first time. Luckily, most dealerships have at least one German speaking person, and if you make an attempt to talk to them in German they usually work harder. (german culture... don't ask).
    Good luck, and let us know what you do!
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    Hi, Here in UK I drive a Skoda Fabia vRS, (Skoda is a VW/Audi sub-brand : same mechanical components, different bodies, lower prices). My engine is an '04 1.9 TDi/130bhp mated to a 6-spd manual. Car is based on the VW Polo but with a larger body.........closer to Golf in size. Although my engine is an '04 it's the same as the '06. After 2.5 years/38000 miles the only warranty work done was replacement of a clip on the fuel-filler cap and a new windscreen wiper arm that just snapped, (only second ever such incident apparently and replaced FOC without any hassle). Mechanically it has been stunning. Yesterday I did a 400 mile round trip; mainly 70-75 mph highway but with a really crawly 20 miles and a stop/start session through a major city. Adjusted for US Gallons car averaged 48mpg. That's by no means unusual in my experience and includes a few episodes of "Yipppeee, we're off" :) :) spirited stuff whilst educating BMW 3-Series etc drivers in the delights of diesel. For first 10000 or so miles it burned some oil but that ceased and it doesn't use any between services. On the 130 bhp motor the Torque figure is 229lbft from about 1900 rpm and that's what gives it the fun factor and the economy. It will pull cleanly in just about any gear and show a clean pair of heels to most things in 3, 4, and 5. The trick with diesels like this is to change up whilst you're in the torque band, say 3000/3500 rpm. Changing up higher is pointless; diesels are about torque, not revs. The great torque means that 6th gear cruising is very relaxed, hence very economic and gradients are never a problem.

    The 1.9 TDi engine has a fantastic reputation here in Europe and one of our local Taxi guys recently moved to new Skoda Octavia with the 2.0 TDi/DSG. His previous Octavia had the 1.9 TDi/105bhp/5-spd manual and had covered 400000+ miles in just over 4 years without anything other than routine servicing/consumables. He gave his old car to his wife as her daily-driver, 'cos it was worth zilch as a trade-in. Reported this previously in "Is This The Day Of The Diesel ?" topic. The 1.9 TDi, and now the 2.0 TDi, engines are loved by Taxi guys for their economy and bomb-proof mechanicals.........which is a good recommendation, I think. VW/Audi/Skoda/SEAT are now offering cars with the 2.0 TDi at 168 or 170 bhp, (depending on the brand), plus a mountain of torque.

    The 1.9 TDi is not the world's quietest engine and "rattles" a bit on cold start. That smooths out on the move and I quite like the somewhat gruff engine note at warp-factor fun.

    Apologies for rambling on about this but, as you will have gathered, I love these devices and am looking forward to seeing the '08 version of my car and hope it will have the 2.0 TDi/170bhp/6-spd DSG combination. If so - it's mine and I may never stop smiling.

    Hope this helps a little. :)
  • cosmocosmo Posts: 203
    I looked up the revised fuel economy estimates for our 2004 Passat and 2006 Jetta TDI's yesterday, and found the EPA's new calculations are even more pessimistic than the old estimates. Both cars have beaten the old EPA estimates consistently in both city and highway driving since they exceeded 10K miles.

    Here's the link to the new estimates.
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,333
    Thanks for the heads up. So the 2003 TDI actually beats the new EPA by (38-47) 9 mpg overall combined.

    In my case it would be 12 mpg. :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    While dragnbaron has touched on the main points there are a few other things that some new TDI owners find surprising.

    1) NO HEAT IN THE WINTER.... If you live anywhere it gets below 10F, the heated seats are manditory.
    2) If you live where it gets below 10F, consider a plug-in engine-heater on a timer if you expect to get any heat out of the engine within the 1st 20 miles of driving.
    3) It takes well over 20,000 miles for TDI engine to "loosen up" and realize its full MPG potential. (I have measured 56 MPG with AC on!)
    4) Expect to add Diesel-fuel-antigell in cold weather. (I add cetane-booster at EVERY fillup)
    5) you MUST use the proper oil in the engine lest the camshaft will self-destruct. (quickie-lube places are not an option)
  • sean9sean9 Posts: 82
    :D Finally got the fuel temp sensor changed out on my 06 Jetat TDI. Has been working fine for the last 4 days since it was done. I made a post on the TDI club website and I was not alone with this problem. Many had the same issue but the sensor never really seemed to affect the performance of the car. I thought this would affect the fuel ratio in some way. Anyways I am happy my car is back to 100%. There was also another Jetta in for the same thing at the dealership last week. I wonder if there was a bad batch of these sensors sent out the the new 06's.

    The weather here has been above freezing the last 2 weeks and the snow is melting fast. Took off the winter tires and rims today and put back on the all seasons. Spring is in the air. :shades: Cant wait for summer.
  • I live in alaska and even when it is 30 below I have no problem, sometimes I plug it in and sometimes I dont I have only used that booster 2 times and it seemed to me to be a wast of money I still get over 525miles on a tank even in 30 below, and 650 in summer. it has 20180 miles and it is still going strong. i drove to san fran and it cost $255. what a deal!!! I love this little car. no car will warm up until after 10-20 miles anyway when it is below zero, this is a great car. I think you should buy one if you have not already. it is a great car the salespeople are the ones who you should not trust, at least not here in alaska. anchorage.
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    Hello. I have an '03 Jetta TDI and the engine light has just recently come on. The car has just over 73,000 trouble free miles on it. I have not had it in to a dealer - doing my own maintence. The light came on this past week, and today both the ABS light came on, as well as the brake light - and it is flashing. I tried the parking brake several times, which I always use when the car is off, and it didn't seem to be stuck at all. The car runs really well in every way. Can this be something that is built in to get you to the dealer? Anyway, I have been reading the posts here, and that seems to be a possibility. I am going to have to get o someone who has a computer program and code reader. Can I buy the software and do this myself? Only one thing, I have a MAC not a PC, so they might not have this available for the Mac.

    Thanks for the reply!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Yes - you can scan the codes yourself with VAG COM.... not sure about availability for Apple.

    Some auto-parts places also will scan the codes for you free of charge. (like Autozone)

    If you do get the codes, you can look them up HERE
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    Thanks Mr bpeebles! Have you any idea what's going on with the brake light and ABS lights coming on? Would you be hesitant to drive the car? It runs fine. I will have to drive it 15 miles to the nearest auto parts store, and hope they have the ability to do this. I went to the site you suggested for the codes and no Mac application.

    Thanks for your help.
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    I went to Auto Zone and they did the check for me and came up with the code P0674. This code is not listed in the chart that you referred me to Mr. bpebbles. The man at Auto Zone told me it was coding as: Glow plug #4. So apparently, something is amiss with the #4 cylinder glow plug. If I replace it, should I go ahead and replace all of them while I am at it? What kind of maintainence should I pull? the brake light and ABS lights were not on...go figure.


    Charles in Indiana
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    This link will tell you everything you need to know about glowplugs.

    They are relativly easy to check and replace. (apply a thin layer of antiseze to threads of ALL of them weather you replace or not.)

    HINT: the Glowplugs are numberd the OPPOSATE of the cylinders. Thus GP#4 is nearest to the timing belt (passengers side of engine)
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    Thanks for the info Bruce. I really appreciate it!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hey Bruce, I know I mentioned this before, but why not add some of these things to the CarSpace Guides section? That would be greatly appreciated! :)
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    Hello. I looking forward to bleeding my brakes. I went to a great “how To” at Fred’s TDI but still have some questions.

    It says on 47-16 of Bentley’s That I have to bleed the clutch slave cylinder since I have a manual transmission. The pic at Fred’s TDI, it shows the screw in the engine compartment. Is this messy when it’s done? Any hints to this?

    The Bentley manual also points out that I have to use some sort of tool to apparently keep the brake pedal depressed when bleeding the brakes. Any hints on this? I guess a big stick stuck between the pedal and the seat? The how to doesn’t address this.

    My biggest concern is that on 47-15, the Bentley manual states that I have to “perform a zero compensation of the brake pressure sender 1 (G201) with a scan tool” - Whatever that is. The how to makes no mention of it, although I realize he was a '00 I think, and maybe not a maual - so it didn't apply. What am I up against with this issue?

    I am going to use a pressure bleeder that I will make or buy. I priced out the homemade one and it came to almost $50. Buying one is only $63 shipped complete. So I am waffling on what to do there.

    Anyway, any help on these comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  • csmcsm Posts: 37
    Hello. I looking forward to bleeding my brakes. I went to a great “how To” at Fred’s TDI but still have some questions.

    My biggest concern is that on 47-15, the Bentley manual states that I have to “perform a zero compensation of the brake pressure sender 1 (G201) with a scan tool” - Whatever that is. The how to makes no mention of it, although I realize he was a '00 I think, and maybe not a manual - so it didn't apply. Is this an issue?

    It also says on 47-16 of Bentley’s That I have to bleed the clutch slave cylinder since I have a manual transmission. The pic at Fred’s TDI how to, shows the screw in the engine compartment. Is this messy when it’s done? Any hints to this?

    The Bentley manual also points out that I have to use some sort of tool to apparently keep the brake pedal depressed when bleeding the brakes. Any hints on this? I guess a big stick stuck between the pedal and the seat? The how to doesn’t address this.

    I am going to use a pressure bleeder that I will make or buy. I priced out the homemade one and it came to almost $50. Buying one is only $63 shipped complete. So I am waffling on what to do there.

    Anyway, any help on these comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have never done a "zero compensation"... but I am sure that my VagCom will do it.

    As for your quesiton about it being "messy" when a bleeder-nipple is opened - I assume you will be hooking a HOSE to each bleeder nipple before you open it up... in which case, it is not messy at all as long as you keep the other end of the hose in the catch-container.

    DO NOT EVER LET BRAKEFLUID GET ON A PAINTED SURFACE!!! It is a very good paint-remover. It is a good idea to have bucket with soapy water and a rag nearby so you can wash off any accidental spilalge of brakefluid.

    Personally, I have always used a vacuum bleeder which is simply a hand-vacuum pump with a jar. (started out as a breast-pump when my 1st child was born.. LOL)

    As long as you have a bentleys, that is considerd the "bible" when it comes to VW repairs.
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