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Comments
I do enjoy the 09 Jetta 6 spd DSG. The 56/52% increase in hp/torque is pretty sweet, sans the -minus 15-19% fuel hit !!!???
I also have been noticing on more specialized sites, the total wear metals per 1,000 miles on CR TDI's 09,10,11 MY's has factorially increased over the 03 TDI ALH. It is roughly 12 times greater ( average of three to four UOA's each).
While I have yet to see nor hear it discussed in the over all picture, I can not help but think it is (along with the 15-19% decrease in fuel mileage) part of the consequences, albeit " price" of the increased hp and torque. As the Honda folks like to point out, great volumetric efficiency.
The last time I looked, neither Asian nor American-branded vehicles offer that kind of corrosion warantee. (not even close!!)
Dont worry about the road-salt. VWs are VERY well built to prevent corrosion. Entire body is dipped in zinc and galvonized before painting. Then, all unpainted panels are coated with rubberized stuff. Look underneath a VW... it is completely coated with rubbery stuff. The lower (rocker) panels have special thicker paint to protect from debris being thrown from the tires. Even the steel is thicker than most vehicles. (rap on the metal with your knuckles)
One method I use to validate corrosion-resistance is to observe the vehicles parked at any walmart.... I look to see which ones start to rust as they age. Most GM products fail this test misrebly... while German vehicles tend to last over 20 years with hardly any rust at all.
i agree with you about the overall quality/features of the car.
45 mpg is especially handy with fuel at $4/gallon, but it's a shame to pay the savings for camshaft/top-end instead.
i've actually got the 5-30 505.01 in there now but most of the oil changes have been with the 5-40... so far no cam problems but I can't say I'll be surprised if any arise.
I would swag that if you had started with Delvac One 5w40 and (drifted to) Mobil One 5w40 TDT (when it hit the market) I would swag you'd have little wear to no repair needed @ 100,000 + miles. The only hassle was those 2 oils were NEVER VW 505.01 certified and remain so. The other hassle was using that oil was in deep vilification for a lot of years, till UOA's and graphic pictures and measurements totally dispelled that MYTH. By then of course unfortunately the "course is set, die is cast" so to speak.
I love the car but they no longer make a v6 wagon. so I have been considering the new jetta wagon diesel (after I have totally worn out the passat of course). but my friend told me that the new jetta diesel has some huge fuel filter problem that ends up costing the owner $10,000 to repair and that VW blames the car owner for putting in the wrong fuel? Ever heard of this?
I mean I know that as a VW owner you need to keep a honda in your back pocket for emergencies. But my problems with my passat have mainly been with incompetent or inexperienced mechanics that don't know how to work on these cars. But overall, routine maintenence is a must. so the new JEtta wagon TDI is problematic? My friend told me to get an acura wagon *yah, for $10,000 more dollars).
Many manufacturers have had HPFP issues with 2009 & later diesel cars.
NHTSA is investigating VW for these issues in the 09 & later jetta TDI.
In response to ODI's information request for PE10-034, VW indicated that it had "found no defect related to motor vehicle safety with relation to the TDI Clean Diesel fuel system at issue in this investigation" and attributed problems with HPFP failure to operation with gasoline contaminated diesel fuel. Volkswagen stated that "even a small amount of gasoline in the diesel fuel may disrupt the necessary lubrication required and may cause the HPFP to fail." In response to concerns that fuel contamination was the major cause of HPFP and related fuel system failures, VW issued a Technical Service Bulletin in May 2010 (VW TB V011011 2023624 and Audi TB A011008 2023360-1), with instructions to inspect the diesel fuel for vehicles requiring fuel system service that have symptoms associated with HPFP failure.
The bulletin states that "fuel system damage incurred by use of fuel not complying to ASTM-D-975 Grade 2 S15 (B5 or less biodiesel content) standards will not be covered under warranty." Volkswagen also provided information about 121 mis-fueling incidents reportedly acknowledged by consumers or dealers and test results for about 50 diesel fuel samples taken from complaint vehicles in late-August through early-October 2010. The mis-fueling incidents include about 20 reports involving incorrect fueling by dealer sales or service personnel and generally report symptoms such as rough running, stalling and/or no start within a few miles of refueling the vehicle with gasoline. Volkswagen indicated that the testing of fuel samples from complaint vehicles found that nearly 90 percent contained high amounts of gasoline. Volkswagen implemented design changes for the HPFP in May 2008, September 2009 and November 2010 to improve the robustness of the pump when used with poor quality fuel. ODI analysis of HPFP failures identified from all sources shows failure rates of 0.53% for MY 2009 vehicles and 0.11% for MY 2010 vehicles. This investigation has been upgraded to an Engineering Analysis to continue to investigate the issues with mis-fueling and HPFP design identified during the Preliminary Evaluation.
I have had issues with my car almost stalling out when pulling away from a stop, but have not put anything other than diesel in the tank. I can't vouch for the quality of the fuel, but have certainly filled up at locations that had ULSD. I wonder what VW would say if I had the HPFP fail and found no gasoline in the tank.... I hope I don't find out.
My BRM came with a list of inherent mechanical issues that will keep costing me 3 to 4 time any estimated savings on diesel fuel mpgs compared to reg unleaded.
I have had VW's spread out over 50 years and other than a rare 72 super beatle they have all been problomatic.
The new non hybrid 2011 cars rated at 34 to 40 mpg on reg gas that are the same size or larger than the Jetta TDI are, for my next vehicle the ones I'll be shopping for.
VW reliability issues are part of the ownership experience as they jump from one half baked idea to another and use us owners as unpaid research and develpment guinea pigs..
NO more VW's for me, I'm done. As they say, "I'm gettin' too old for this ####"
But then on the other hand, they do succeed in having a good percentage of Dr. Jekyll samples also. I just ran a like for like cost comparison on a 03 TDI Jetta and 04 Civic. Let me be one to also say it is really an apples to oranges comparision. Since this is a Jetta TDI thread, the real competition is the Toyota Camry Hybrid. Be that as it may, the gasser 04 Civic costed a lot more than the VW Jetta TDI. In discussion round numbers, app $4,300 in 120,000 miles. Msg 2197
"What would it take for YOU to buy a diesel car?"
Let me say this as clear as possible while not shouting. I am/ was in no way unhappy with the 04 Civic. In fact, I am VERY happy with it and it fulfills the reasons I bought it, ...daily commuting. So by default, the VW (Jetta TDI) has been truly a "cut above".
imho the TPMS system is waaaay more trouble than it is worth.
when the TPMS valve stems fail/leak, consider to replace with normal valvestems and start a 401K.
They said that once the batteries go bad in the sensors, you need to replace the entire sensor, not just the battery inside. Not sure how expensive that will be, but it seems that you have to go to the dealership to have them reprogrammed.
Currently I am driving on my spare (Bridgestone Turanza ER300) until I can get a new wheel. Does anyone have any experience as to how well this tire will hold up? I have about 1200+ miles to travel before I can get the wheel replaced.
In the meantime, my TPMS light will be on as my current wheel is at the shop with the sensor still inside it. My light is now flashing or steady, with annoying messages telling me that my tire pressure is low.
In hindsight, I should have asked them if they could mount the tire back on the damaged wheel, and throw it in the trunk so the car's TPMS will be happy
The tape option sounds cost effective and functional, but I don't think it would pass inspection :P
I check tires about every 2-3 weeks, so normally not an issue, but recently was driving to get on the freeway and the light came on again. Stopped and checked pressure, and sure enough a back tire was low. Took a further look and had a nail in the tire.
However, I would expect it to be VERY rare to have them both running at full-tilt. Mine have never-ever run like this.
I could surmise a situation where they *might* both run at full-tilt (add all these together)
*) VERY hot ambient temperatures
*) Air-conditioning running at full-cooling
*)stop-n-go traffic (not enough natural airflow thru radiator)
With that said, unless your engine-temp guage starts to climb, there should be no harm to your engine. The cooling-system is doing its job.
The only thing in the intake-tract is the anti-overrun safety valve. This is normally FULLY open while you are driving and snaps shut when you turn off the key.
Its purpose is to save you (and your engine) from self-destructing. A diesel engine runs on oil --ANY oil-- including its own engine-oil. It is possible for an oil-leak into the intake (from the turbocharger) to make a diesel engine race at full throttle out of control. It would self-fuel itself until all the engine-oil is consumed. (or engine melts!!)
Here are some Utube examples of what can happen when this safety-valve does not close when you turn off the key.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zx3qKX_Pno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmkHTkmj2_U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4fxjKnuI4Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw2r_lIRgpY
You can imagine what happens when a diesel LOCOMOTIVE goes into runaway condition.
I wish these guys at the STEALERSHIP would explain this kind of stuff to CUSTOMERS. :mad:
A no-start condition such as that described by the original appended cannot be caused by "Swirl control valves".... Only the safety "overrun valve" stuck closed would cause a no-start condition.
Many people are not even aware of all the high technology under the hood to squeeze the most MPG and lowest emissions from the engine.
The basic technology of an internal-combustion engine means it is still just an air-pump. (Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow) All the fancy stuff is there to make the air be pumped more efficiently.
On the other hand, the VW TDI manual transmission combination is one of the easiest to learn/get a feel for. There is so much torque (relative to like models) you literally can get the car moving almost with no throttle input.
As an owner of a BRM 06' Jetta TDI, I think I can say that the 'VW Very Special Oil' tanker has set sail.
Most 06 owners have done the UOA's and are now using just about any 5-40 concotion off the Walmart shelf except the VW one.
MIght add a few thousand miles more before the cam ultimatly eats holes in all the tappits.
Don't go trying to pull the UOA analysts card on me buddy. I wonder how many pistons and camshafts you have personally held in your hand. Anyone who is ignoring VWs recommendations by using "any 5-40 concoction" in a TDI engine is simply asking for trouble.
It is folks on the forums such as yourself who lead people astray... beware of believing everything you read on the internet.
There is no need for oil-wars... the original appender was asking about camshafts in their 2006 and I simply tried to answer their question by letting them know they are not alone with their camshaft issues.
BTW: there is only one "5-40 concoction" on the shelf at Walmart (Shell Rotella® T6 Full Synthetic). It is a very good motorcycle oil.. and I would use it in my TDI briefly. I would NOT use it in a 2006 TDI engine under any conditions.
QUESTION FOR YOU: Do you even know the TBN (Total Base Number) of the oil you are running in your TDI?
There is a separate discussion on other good to great oils, which offer good price/performance ratios, BUT are not necessarily VW 504./VW 507.00 compliant. Bpeebles mentioned one, Shell T6 . I personally would use the Mobil One TDT 5w40. I actually have since new but it is a 2003 TDI, so I do not have skin in the game. To me there is one issue that is unresolved even as VW has annointed the 5w30 VW 507.00. The old standard was indeed 5w40. The rational was the cam lobes actually used greater viscosity to provide a slightly greater friction barrier.
Mobil One ESP VW 5w30 VW 507.00, or Mobil One ESP MB 229.51 5w40. Since yours does not require low saps, I would stick with the Mobil One TDT 5w40 as it is much cheaper
That's what I use in my 2006 TDI and just bought 2 jugs of it at Walmart yesterday.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3URdM-Fxzs
Does anyone know what this knocking is?
Thanks.
If you meet someone who actually *went* 450,000 on the same engine (it's possible), find out how they did it; otherwise, this is pure salesmanship at work. It's like saying "all vegetarians will live to be 125". The normal lifespan (stastistical) of a small diesel engine is about 225,000--250,000 miles, and prior to that, you can fall prey to accident, etc.
Don't buy the car based on goals that most people can't even test.
Now for the first 4 years (2003 TDI), I did that @ 25,000 miles per year. So if I were to average it out, I am at 21,000 per year. What has practically slowed me down is another TDI addition. :shades:
Now for sure one should keep up with the scheduled maintenance. Timing belt R/R is the first major scheduled maintenance item. Filters and oil changes are probably next, with 10,000 miles tire rotations.
Unscheduled maintenance items will certainly come to the fore. That is really why a guru inspection of the TDI is pretty high on the priority list. Yes, he stands to benefit, if the presumably needed to wanted work is thrown his way.
My scheduled stuff has been TB/WP @ 100,000 to 120,000 miles intervals (you can stretch it to 120,000 miles but... 100,000k is the recommended interval) The 1998 has a shorter T/B interval, but the WP is not in line, so it can easily go 250,000 miles. I run 20,000 to 25,000 miles OCI's my last one was @ 30,700 miles. The next one I have scheduled for app 30,000 miles. :shades:
So the unscheduled stuff has been @ 167,000 miles (unscheduled but scheduled) smog inspection, which had been previously exempt. Had to buy tires @ 112,300. a coolant sensor needed R/R (the computer threw a code) the driver side low beam needed R/R. I had to buy a new front end Colgan bra, as keeping it 24/7 outside shredded the old one. Brake pads, rotors are swagged to go 280,000 miles. I am still working on lifetime G12 coolant.(9-10 years old) I also plan to change the shocks @ 250,000 miles on G/P. Tire wear has been dead EVEN across the width of the tread. I have also had 1 windshield replaced (small stone/s damage) This is unedited. Anyone can put it into any perspective one wants.