Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

VW Jetta TDI

1858688909193

Comments

  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    Well, I'll let you know when mine goes out, I plan on keeping the car until it costs too much to repair or completely quits working.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Thank you. However I suspect at least a couple to multiple 100,000's miles of miles as service life.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    The thing is, now you have the newer TDI will the old one just sit and deteriorate from lack of use? I am assuming you are enjoying the new ride even more than the old one. You may be better off selling the older one while it still has good resale value.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited February 2011
    For sure, the per year mileage use has fallen off. (25/26 to 19.66 avg) I still find myself still pretty amazed, even after 154,000 miles. So yes, the time to sell IS really sub 200,000 miles. All systems have been stellar, except for a recent coolant sensor issue (triggered a CEL). $18. part and 1 hour labor, then promptly to the smog test for a ... pass.

    I do enjoy the 09 Jetta 6 spd DSG. The 56/52% increase in hp/torque is pretty sweet, sans the -minus 15-19% fuel hit !!!???
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited February 2011
    Just a follow on after thought.

    I also have been noticing on more specialized sites, the total wear metals per 1,000 miles on CR TDI's 09,10,11 MY's has factorially increased over the 03 TDI ALH. It is roughly 12 times greater ( average of three to four UOA's each).

    While I have yet to see nor hear it discussed in the over all picture, I can not help but think it is (along with the 15-19% decrease in fuel mileage) part of the consequences, albeit " price" of the increased hp and torque. As the Honda folks like to point out, great volumetric efficiency.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    I am hoping for that, but driving here in PA, the road salt they dump on the roads could shorten the lifespan by quite a bit... :mad:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited February 2011
    Road salt in PA is *nothing* compared to Vermont. Here in Vermont, the salt covers my cars for nearly 5 months a year. One reason I chose VW was becasue of their 12-year/unlimited miles corrosion warantee.

    The last time I looked, neither Asian nor American-branded vehicles offer that kind of corrosion warantee. (not even close!!)

    Dont worry about the road-salt. VWs are VERY well built to prevent corrosion. Entire body is dipped in zinc and galvonized before painting. Then, all unpainted panels are coated with rubberized stuff. Look underneath a VW... it is completely coated with rubbery stuff. The lower (rocker) panels have special thicker paint to protect from debris being thrown from the tires. Even the steel is thicker than most vehicles. (rap on the metal with your knuckles)

    One method I use to validate corrosion-resistance is to observe the vehicles parked at any walmart.... I look to see which ones start to rust as they age. Most GM products fail this test misrebly... while German vehicles tend to last over 20 years with hardly any rust at all.
  • race2win777race2win777 Member Posts: 1
    I owned a 06' VW jetta TDI Package 2, Coode BRM. I loved the car! As a matter of fact in my opinion for a compact it is nicest and best riding car out there! I did all oil changes myself at proper mileage intervals with the spec oil every single time, oil filter catridges changed every oil change which I mind you is around $75 for each oil change over a hundred at the dealer! I changed fuel filyer and all other required maintenence and still had failure! If you research that oil specification 505.01 there is nothing special about it except that it is designed to be a super low viscosity oil that still protects and why do that you say its about fuel mileage! It's literally almost as thin as water! In my experience the cam lobes wore, the lifters wore some all the way through, and cam bearings totally destroyed. motor still ran though i will give it that just had a ticking noise! Total top end rebuild and motor cleanout ended up costing me around $2200 parts and labor and that was at the friend discount not at the dealer. This all happened around 103K miles i ended up runnin Rotella T after that i think the thicker oil has a better chance of oiling the top end of the motor dont know for sure just my opinion, sold the car around 116K miles. I liked the car just so disappointed that a diesel only lasted for 100K miles before the motor had internal issues i bought it expecting to get atleast 250k.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    race2winner, that's not an encouraging story but thanks for posting all the details.
    i agree with you about the overall quality/features of the car.
    45 mpg is especially handy with fuel at $4/gallon, but it's a shame to pay the savings for camshaft/top-end instead.
    i've actually got the 5-30 505.01 in there now but most of the oil changes have been with the 5-40... so far no cam problems but I can't say I'll be surprised if any arise.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited March 2011
    VW surely did not do any favors in the higher percentage of camshaft issues on the PD (pump duse) engines, 04 to 06 TDI's.

    I would swag that if you had started with Delvac One 5w40 and (drifted to) Mobil One 5w40 TDT (when it hit the market) I would swag you'd have little wear to no repair needed @ 100,000 + miles. The only hassle was those 2 oils were NEVER VW 505.01 certified and remain so. The other hassle was using that oil was in deep vilification for a lot of years, till UOA's and graphic pictures and measurements totally dispelled that MYTH. By then of course unfortunately the "course is set, die is cast" so to speak.
  • howardg2howardg2 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks for the information. My Jetta TDI has just 40K, and they charged me 180.00 to fix the flap today, but I am concerned it will go bad again soon. They told me to call VW and I did. They said it is not under warranty, but would offer me dealer credit for my "loyalty". Grr...it should just be covered.
  • ppassatppassat Member Posts: 1
    Well, my 2000 passat wagon has 160,000 miles on it.
    I love the car but they no longer make a v6 wagon. so I have been considering the new jetta wagon diesel (after I have totally worn out the passat of course). but my friend told me that the new jetta diesel has some huge fuel filter problem that ends up costing the owner $10,000 to repair and that VW blames the car owner for putting in the wrong fuel? Ever heard of this?
    I mean I know that as a VW owner you need to keep a honda in your back pocket for emergencies. But my problems with my passat have mainly been with incompetent or inexperienced mechanics that don't know how to work on these cars. But overall, routine maintenence is a must. so the new JEtta wagon TDI is problematic? My friend told me to get an acura wagon *yah, for $10,000 more dollars).
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    Your friend has heard accurately.
    Many manufacturers have had HPFP issues with 2009 & later diesel cars.
    NHTSA is investigating VW for these issues in the 09 & later jetta TDI.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    Unfortunately the investigation has resulted in blaming mis-fueling.

    In response to ODI's information request for PE10-034, VW indicated that it had "found no defect related to motor vehicle safety with relation to the TDI Clean Diesel fuel system at issue in this investigation" and attributed problems with HPFP failure to operation with gasoline contaminated diesel fuel. Volkswagen stated that "even a small amount of gasoline in the diesel fuel may disrupt the necessary lubrication required and may cause the HPFP to fail." In response to concerns that fuel contamination was the major cause of HPFP and related fuel system failures, VW issued a Technical Service Bulletin in May 2010 (VW TB V011011 2023624 and Audi TB A011008 2023360-1), with instructions to inspect the diesel fuel for vehicles requiring fuel system service that have symptoms associated with HPFP failure.

    The bulletin states that "fuel system damage incurred by use of fuel not complying to ASTM-D-975 Grade 2 S15 (B5 or less biodiesel content) standards will not be covered under warranty." Volkswagen also provided information about 121 mis-fueling incidents reportedly acknowledged by consumers or dealers and test results for about 50 diesel fuel samples taken from complaint vehicles in late-August through early-October 2010. The mis-fueling incidents include about 20 reports involving incorrect fueling by dealer sales or service personnel and generally report symptoms such as rough running, stalling and/or no start within a few miles of refueling the vehicle with gasoline. Volkswagen indicated that the testing of fuel samples from complaint vehicles found that nearly 90 percent contained high amounts of gasoline. Volkswagen implemented design changes for the HPFP in May 2008, September 2009 and November 2010 to improve the robustness of the pump when used with poor quality fuel. ODI analysis of HPFP failures identified from all sources shows failure rates of 0.53% for MY 2009 vehicles and 0.11% for MY 2010 vehicles. This investigation has been upgraded to an Engineering Analysis to continue to investigate the issues with mis-fueling and HPFP design identified during the Preliminary Evaluation.

    I have had issues with my car almost stalling out when pulling away from a stop, but have not put anything other than diesel in the tank. I can't vouch for the quality of the fuel, but have certainly filled up at locations that had ULSD. I wonder what VW would say if I had the HPFP fail and found no gasoline in the tank.... I hope I don't find out.
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    We VDubers are all in the same boat no matter if you have a new one or and old one.
    My BRM came with a list of inherent mechanical issues that will keep costing me 3 to 4 time any estimated savings on diesel fuel mpgs compared to reg unleaded.
    I have had VW's spread out over 50 years and other than a rare 72 super beatle they have all been problomatic.

    The new non hybrid 2011 cars rated at 34 to 40 mpg on reg gas that are the same size or larger than the Jetta TDI are, for my next vehicle the ones I'll be shopping for.

    VW reliability issues are part of the ownership experience as they jump from one half baked idea to another and use us owners as unpaid research and develpment guinea pigs..

    NO more VW's for me, I'm done. As they say, "I'm gettin' too old for this ####"
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    I am sorry to hear your Sportswagen TDI has not worked out for you. I had high hopes for that car. Looking at the alternatives that are non hybrid, well there are none. The closest would be the Hyundai Elantra rated at 33 MPG. The average owner is claiming only 28 MPG combined. It looks like the problem in the USA is our substandard fuel. It is hard to say what damage our ethanol laced gas is doing to many vehicles. How much has it shortened the life of those cars. I am holding out for a diesel SUV. I would like a smaller size than the current half dozen diesel SUVs being sold.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited March 2011
    I really can't say I blame you there. All brands have a certain percentage of "Mr. Hyde" samples. They also have a pretty annoying smaller percentage of "and when its bad its REALLY bad" samples. VW for some reason seems to have a higher percentage of those Mr. Hyde samples (with sub categories) than (for example) most Japanese oems.

    But then on the other hand, they do succeed in having a good percentage of Dr. Jekyll samples also. I just ran a like for like cost comparison on a 03 TDI Jetta and 04 Civic. Let me be one to also say it is really an apples to oranges comparision. Since this is a Jetta TDI thread, the real competition is the Toyota Camry Hybrid. Be that as it may, the gasser 04 Civic costed a lot more than the VW Jetta TDI. In discussion round numbers, app $4,300 in 120,000 miles. Msg 2197

    "What would it take for YOU to buy a diesel car?"

    Let me say this as clear as possible while not shouting. I am/ was in no way unhappy with the 04 Civic. In fact, I am VERY happy with it and it fulfills the reasons I bought it, ...daily commuting. So by default, the VW (Jetta TDI) has been truly a "cut above".
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    Does anyone know how to disable TPMS on an 09 TDI Sedan? Currently I will be running on my spare for a few days (tire with sensor is in shop) and I would like to disable the system so that the light will be out. Would it require a code change with VAG-COM?
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    Some winters i use black electrical tape.
    imho the TPMS system is waaaay more trouble than it is worth.
    when the TPMS valve stems fail/leak, consider to replace with normal valvestems and start a 401K. :|
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    edited March 2011
    I was talking to the guys at our local Goodyear about them, and feel that they are a pointless waste. I check my pressure at least 2 times a month since I drive about 1K a week and want to ensure they are good.

    They said that once the batteries go bad in the sensors, you need to replace the entire sensor, not just the battery inside. Not sure how expensive that will be, but it seems that you have to go to the dealership to have them reprogrammed.

    Currently I am driving on my spare (Bridgestone Turanza ER300) until I can get a new wheel. Does anyone have any experience as to how well this tire will hold up? I have about 1200+ miles to travel before I can get the wheel replaced.

    In the meantime, my TPMS light will be on as my current wheel is at the shop with the sensor still inside it. My light is now flashing or steady, with annoying messages telling me that my tire pressure is low.

    In hindsight, I should have asked them if they could mount the tire back on the damaged wheel, and throw it in the trunk so the car's TPMS will be happy :)

    The tape option sounds cost effective and functional, but I don't think it would pass inspection :P
  • belaircarguybelaircarguy Member Posts: 107
    I have a 2007 Jetta with the TPMS system. One sensor did fail, as the dash light came on, but all the tires were at the correct pressure. A trip to my Goodyear store and they found the bad sensor. They had to get a new sensor, which was about $100 repair job. Looks like down the road, these things will create a maintainence issue at $100 per wheel.

    I check tires about every 2-3 weeks, so normally not an issue, but recently was driving to get on the freeway and the light came on again. Stopped and checked pressure, and sure enough a back tire was low. Took a further look and had a nail in the tire.
  • shriftyshrifty Member Posts: 255
    One of my tires has been patched a few times now due to nails or staples (the big ones). Fortunately I didn't lose air from them, but noticed the bits of metal sticking out. I would rather check my tires weekly than pay a few hundred to have the sensors replaced. I'm not sure what the lifespan is on the TPMS sensors. More than likely I'll have the car programmed to ignore them once they go bad.
  • uvroweruvrower Member Posts: 10
    Have a 2011 Jetta TDI Sportwagen, 6 speed manual. While teaching my son to drive the stick shift, with only 4,600 miles on it, it stalled and would not restart. Took a day to diagnose, but the throttle body had to be replaced. They said the plate was binding. Must have shut off air to the engine? Anyway anyone else have this or similar problem? I just got a friend to buy one before this happened!
  • tditorontotditoronto Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2010 Jetta TDI with approximately 15,000 miles on it. I notice that sometimes it loses power momentarily at highway speeds, and at lower speeds as well, but not as often. It's usually when it is cruising around 1,800 RPMs, regardless of speed. Once when I was driving in stop-and-go city traffic, it stalled...right out of the blue. I was idling, and it just stopped running. It made me think that this might be what is happening at highway speeds as well, but since it has manual transmission, the momentum must be forcing it to restart itself. Nothing has shown up in dealer diagnostics but, then again, trying to explain something like this to an undedicated service advisor can be quite trying.
  • tditorontotditoronto Member Posts: 6
    I've noticed the dual cooling fans working at various times in my 2010 Jetta TDI, even when it is stopped and shut-off after driving for a while. This is normal, but I've also noticed that sometimes the two fans kick in and operate at a much higher speed than I am used to witnessing. In fact, they start up sometimes when I'm in traffic, and they are going so fast, it sounds like a turbo-prop is coming in for a landing. I thought maybe it was something else, like the fuel pump, or worse, but I've manged to pull it over quickly enough to lift the hood and witness them still operating at this speed for a few moments before they slow down to a more normal speed. Are they two speed fans? Has anyone else experienced this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Yes - 2 speed fans.

    However, I would expect it to be VERY rare to have them both running at full-tilt. Mine have never-ever run like this.

    I could surmise a situation where they *might* both run at full-tilt (add all these together)
    *) VERY hot ambient temperatures
    *) Air-conditioning running at full-cooling
    *)stop-n-go traffic (not enough natural airflow thru radiator)

    With that said, unless your engine-temp guage starts to climb, there should be no harm to your engine. The cooling-system is doing its job.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    um--- a diesel engine DOES NOT HAVE A THROTTLE-BODY!!

    The only thing in the intake-tract is the anti-overrun safety valve. This is normally FULLY open while you are driving and snaps shut when you turn off the key.

    Its purpose is to save you (and your engine) from self-destructing. A diesel engine runs on oil --ANY oil-- including its own engine-oil. It is possible for an oil-leak into the intake (from the turbocharger) to make a diesel engine race at full throttle out of control. It would self-fuel itself until all the engine-oil is consumed. (or engine melts!!)

    Here are some Utube examples of what can happen when this safety-valve does not close when you turn off the key.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zx3qKX_Pno
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmkHTkmj2_U
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4fxjKnuI4Y
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw2r_lIRgpY

    You can imagine what happens when a diesel LOCOMOTIVE goes into runaway condition.
  • dieselfitter1dieselfitter1 Member Posts: 42
    If your DPF is in a regen , both fans will run. This is to circulate air around the tight area of the DPF, so that no damage is done to surrounding equipment.
  • uvroweruvrower Member Posts: 10
    I hear you and do not dispute you. However VW called it a throttle body and it states so on the repair receipt. So it may be the overrun safety valve, but I will tell you the engine runs much better now than it has in 3000 miles. Revs more freely and more smoothly. Might have been a progressive failure
  • dieselfitter1dieselfitter1 Member Posts: 42
    The so called 'throttle Body' is actually 4 butterfly valves that restrict the air on one of the intake valves on each cylinder at lower speeds to induce turbulence in the combustion chamber for a better burn.

    I wish these guys at the STEALERSHIP would explain this kind of stuff to CUSTOMERS. :mad:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited July 2011
    Those are "Swirl control valves" many modern engines use such trickery to force intake-air thru skinny air-plenums at low flow-rates. Simple physics tells us that smaller passageways have higher air-velocity. Oftentimes, these feed into only 2 of the 4 intake-valves. Higher velocity means better air-fuel mixture.... but also means more friction along the insides of the plenums. Hence, as flow-rate increases (higher engine RPM) those valve open to enable larger passageways to reduce friction.

    A no-start condition such as that described by the original appended cannot be caused by "Swirl control valves".... Only the safety "overrun valve" stuck closed would cause a no-start condition.

    Many people are not even aware of all the high technology under the hood to squeeze the most MPG and lowest emissions from the engine.

    The basic technology of an internal-combustion engine means it is still just an air-pump. (Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow) All the fancy stuff is there to make the air be pumped more efficiently.
  • uvroweruvrower Member Posts: 10
    Well, thanks to the two of you for explaining it to me. It was not great being stranded and it happened after repeated stalling as I was teaching my son to drive a manual. Did not endear him to stick shifts.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited July 2011
    I can surely understand it. There is a longer learning curve to a 4,5,6, speed manual, than say a DSG or automatic slush box.

    On the other hand, the VW TDI manual transmission combination is one of the easiest to learn/get a feel for. There is so much torque (relative to like models) you literally can get the car moving almost with no throttle input.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    True. Torque is the friend of the new, or less skilled, manual transmission driver.
  • tdi06tdi06 Member Posts: 1
    hi, I have a 2006 jetta tdi 1.9l auto and am in the processing of replacing my camshaft. She has 215k kilometers. Has anyone else had early problems with their engines or know of any issues within the engine that I may be able to get my repair reimbursed? any thought would be appreciated! thank you. Kelly
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I believe that engine is known for camshaft issues...especially if owners did not use the very special oil recommended to protect the camshaft.
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    Oh Boy, I think "Oil Wars 3" is coming soon to this forum!

    As an owner of a BRM 06' Jetta TDI, I think I can say that the 'VW Very Special Oil' tanker has set sail.

    Most 06 owners have done the UOA's and are now using just about any 5-40 concotion off the Walmart shelf except the VW one.

    MIght add a few thousand miles more before the cam ultimatly eats holes in all the tappits.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    edited July 2011
    Oh stop it... My 2003 TDI calls for "special" oil (505.01)... and I beleive the 2006 TDI calls for "very special" (507.00) oil. It is well known that the "very special" oil contains additives to help the camshaft live longer in that engine. The VW engineers know what they are doing.

    Don't go trying to pull the UOA analysts card on me buddy. I wonder how many pistons and camshafts you have personally held in your hand. Anyone who is ignoring VWs recommendations by using "any 5-40 concoction" in a TDI engine is simply asking for trouble.

    It is folks on the forums such as yourself who lead people astray... beware of believing everything you read on the internet.

    There is no need for oil-wars... the original appender was asking about camshafts in their 2006 and I simply tried to answer their question by letting them know they are not alone with their camshaft issues.

    BTW: there is only one "5-40 concoction" on the shelf at Walmart (Shell Rotella® T6 Full Synthetic). It is a very good motorcycle oil.. and I would use it in my TDI briefly. I would NOT use it in a 2006 TDI engine under any conditions.

    QUESTION FOR YOU: Do you even know the TBN (Total Base Number) of the oil you are running in your TDI?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited July 2011
    The "correct" oil is the VW 504.00. Since the VW 507.00 5w30 (latest version circa app )2004 IS BACKWARD compatible, here is one vendors link Total There are any of a number that come to mind: Castrol (gold bottle) Pentosin, Mobil One, Lubromoly, Motul, etc. The real fly in the ointment is the VW 507.00 was not out in the US market when the 2006 TDI was available, despite being out WW in 2004 or earlier. As a result, they went with the (now superseded, aka obsolete) VW 504.00.

    There is a separate discussion on other good to great oils, which offer good price/performance ratios, BUT are not necessarily VW 504./VW 507.00 compliant. Bpeebles mentioned one, Shell T6 . I personally would use the Mobil One TDT 5w40. I actually have since new but it is a 2003 TDI, so I do not have skin in the game. To me there is one issue that is unresolved even as VW has annointed the 5w30 VW 507.00. The old standard was indeed 5w40. The rational was the cam lobes actually used greater viscosity to provide a slightly greater friction barrier.

    Mobil One ESP VW 5w30 VW 507.00, or Mobil One ESP MB 229.51 5w40. Since yours does not require low saps, I would stick with the Mobil One TDT 5w40 as it is much cheaper
  • longo2longo2 Member Posts: 347
    " I would stick with the Mobil One TDT 5w40 as it is much cheaper"

    That's what I use in my 2006 TDI and just bought 2 jugs of it at Walmart yesterday.
  • stlbpwstlbpw Member Posts: 2
    edited July 2011
    I am getting a knocking sound from the front end of my Jetta TDI when it is under load at 75 mph. I took it to the dealer and they could not reproduce the problem. It seems to happen when it is in the top gear and dies out when it gets slower than 70 mph. There is no vibration felt in the steering wheel only the knocking sound. I posted a video showing the problem on youtube:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3URdM-Fxzs

    Does anyone know what this knocking is?

    Thanks.
  • stlbpwstlbpw Member Posts: 2
  • cosmocosmo Member Posts: 203
    Watched and listened to your video. Since you are not feeling any vibration in the steering wheel, I would first inspect the fasteners for the lower engine compartment cover, the wheel well liners, and the heat shields. It may be something light fluttering in the wind at speeds above 70 mph. You might also want to check the seals in the sunroof and windows. The whistling sound of air leaks in older cars seem to have been replaced by vibrating sounds in new aerodynamic cars.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Since the op will probably bring it to the dealer to trouble shoot, he might also want to ask if they are doing the front pillar insulation kit (for his 2010 MY) . I had just recently brought my 2009 TDI for the 20,000 miles included service, and that is one of the first things they inquired about. They also did an ECM software upgrade.
  • ecfoehringerecfoehringer Member Posts: 2
    I am looking into buying a Vw jetta with a tdi and a manual transmission. i found one for sale but it has over 220K miles on it and im not sure how long these babies run for. ive read they can last forever but im not sure never used a diesel before so any help would be awesome.
  • notquitejettanotquitejetta Member Posts: 12
    What year? Purchased my 2010 in December '09. Just rolled 64K, still running like new, but that's not really a good indicator of longevity just yet. I have a co-worker driving an '05 TDI, just rolled 220K, still running strong and getting 40-plus mpg. His driving is pure highway, so as an added bonus he didn't have to replace the factory brakes until 200K. Not a scientific analysis, but I would say based on his results that, yes, they do go a long tme.
  • ecfoehringerecfoehringer Member Posts: 2
    the vehicle is a 1998 i was just wondering if i could get a real opinion on the matter because i was on another forum and the guy said all tdi should last to 450k easy
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    Best advice I can give is to take the car to a reputable VW TDI mechanic for a complete analysis. Probably cost you a $100. Well worth the money. Unless you are buying the car for $1000 or less, it could save you some serious money. The good thing about the 98 TDI is the fact it is simpler and probably a lot less expensive to repair than a newer one. It is not just the engine you have to think about. All the suspension could be worn out at 220k miles. Electronics can be costly as well.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited August 2011
    Good advice there! And don't be too swayed by such extreme claims of longevity...there won't be 1 VW TDI in tens of thousands of them that will go 450,000 miles without at least some internal overhaul, or even more likely falling prey to accident, etc. It would also take an average owner 37 years to reach that mileage at 12,000 miles a year. So unless the person claiming this mileage has been driving the car for 37 years, how would they even know if the engine had been worked on previously?

    If you meet someone who actually *went* 450,000 on the same engine (it's possible), find out how they did it; otherwise, this is pure salesmanship at work. It's like saying "all vegetarians will live to be 125". The normal lifespan (stastistical) of a small diesel engine is about 225,000--250,000 miles, and prior to that, you can fall prey to accident, etc.

    Don't buy the car based on goals that most people can't even test.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    edited August 2011
    What you say and the reasoning are true. But buying a 1998 VW TDI at 220,000 miles, he is only looking to go 230,000 more miles !? ;) Evidently the previous owner (s) did the first 220,000 miles leg @ a rate of app 15.5 to 16k per year.

    Now for the first 4 years (2003 TDI), I did that @ 25,000 miles per year. So if I were to average it out, I am at 21,000 per year. What has practically slowed me down is another TDI addition. :shades:

    Now for sure one should keep up with the scheduled maintenance. Timing belt R/R is the first major scheduled maintenance item. Filters and oil changes are probably next, with 10,000 miles tire rotations.

    Unscheduled maintenance items will certainly come to the fore. That is really why a guru inspection of the TDI is pretty high on the priority list. Yes, he stands to benefit, if the presumably needed to wanted work is thrown his way.

    My scheduled stuff has been TB/WP @ 100,000 to 120,000 miles intervals (you can stretch it to 120,000 miles but... 100,000k is the recommended interval) The 1998 has a shorter T/B interval, but the WP is not in line, so it can easily go 250,000 miles. I run 20,000 to 25,000 miles OCI's my last one was @ 30,700 miles. The next one I have scheduled for app 30,000 miles. :shades:

    So the unscheduled stuff has been @ 167,000 miles (unscheduled but scheduled) smog inspection, which had been previously exempt. Had to buy tires @ 112,300. a coolant sensor needed R/R (the computer threw a code) the driver side low beam needed R/R. I had to buy a new front end Colgan bra, as keeping it 24/7 outside shredded the old one. Brake pads, rotors are swagged to go 280,000 miles. I am still working on lifetime G12 coolant.(9-10 years old) I also plan to change the shocks @ 250,000 miles on G/P. Tire wear has been dead EVEN across the width of the tread. I have also had 1 windshield replaced (small stone/s damage) This is unedited. Anyone can put it into any perspective one wants.
Sign In or Register to comment.