Hyundai Sonata 2006-2007

fender123

These are price quotes i got from Tony Hyundai at hawaii.

I got a price quote for the 2007 Sonata Gls auto for $16,785 including the $500 rebate. I was wondering if that was a good deal.

I also got a price quote for a 2007 Hyundai Sonata SE for $20,495 (including the $1500 rebate)

Also i'm new to this forum and i was wondering what OTD means and what TTL means :confuse: ty!!!

pat

This discussion has been reopened in accordance with this post: Sylvia, "Forums Software! Your Questions Answered..." #3319, 12 Nov 2006 2:43 pm.

craigbrooks

Purchased my 06 I4 Sonata about 800 miles ago and love it. I work for a used car superstore and we purchased two I4 automatic GLS's, one pearl white which I bought. Thank god no thumps and no sloshing. Just that annoying ticking until the car warms up. I am thinking about using 5W-30 for the next oil change. I live in Montana and it gets cold here It had 13000 miles on it when I bought it. Paid $14000.00. Held book value at the auction...I'm surprised. My question is, if I have to have warranty work done and I do not have receipts for past maintenance performed will I have a problem? My car went into service in New Mexico as a rental. Is there any way to find out who purchased it as a rental and how do I go about getting maintenance info? The seats are a small issue but I only go on 700 mile road trips once a year and I'll figure a way to make them comfortable for those trips.

ray_h1

The "annoying ticking" is very likely timing chain noise until the chain tensioner fully pumps up. Nissans and Toyotas suffer the same "malady". It's harmless - just the cold startup audible confirmation of a real he-man timing chain's superior durability compared to a synthetic textile reinforced cogged timing belt. I may be wrong, but I think communication with New Mexico's department of motor vehicles would be able to trace to whom the car was intially titled. That information might also be on Hyundai's national database for warranty purposes, too. (Contact any Hyundai dealership or Hyundai's National Consumer Assitance Center
{800-633-5151} for that information. If the car's on their radar, they can confirm it and what it may've been in for.) Presuming you find out which rental agency originally purchased the car, a letter requesting a copy of the car's service log through the rental agency's service facility might just get you squared away for future warranty purposes. I presume you're aware that as the second owner, you're entitled to what remains of the 5/60K basic warranty, only - which includes the powertrain through that time and mileage. The extended 10/100K powertrain warranty that comes into play after the 5/60K basic warranty doesn't transfer to subsequent owners.

craigbrooks

Thanks for the info. When I purchased the car the oil needed changed so I had it done. I did not hear the ticking before the oil was changed. It takes about 2 miles before it goes away. I was thinking lifter noise but the timing chain makes sense. I am still going to change to 5W-30 as we can get some below 0 weather here and hope the ticking goes away sooner. I knew about the warranty limitations for the second owner, still 5/60 is good, a lot better than 3/36 for domestic cars. Thanks again!

craigbrooks

Since there are a lot of knowlegdable people here can someone explain in layman's terms how the CVVT works? Would turning off the ESC disable the traction control?

miamixt

Here is some info on CVVT

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variable_valve_timing

Turning off the ESC would disable Traction Control too. Here is a great link for ESC/TCS/ABS

http://www.racv.com.au/wps/wcm/connect/Internet/Primary/my+car/car+safety/safety- +equipment/brakes/stability+control/

craigbrooks

Thanks for the info!

bobad

Purchased my 06 I4 Sonata about 800 miles ago and love it.

A service bulletin was issued on the V6 timing chain tensioner, but not on the I4 as far as I know. Timing chain tensioner noise is only heard within 30 seconds of a cold start.

Good luck with your new used car.

eagle2a

Excellent post miamixt! Thanks.

I was hit by a "Hit and Run" driver a few weeks ago. Hit my new Sonata(four mo old) in the right rear door and mostly wheel well. About $4,100.00 damage. Hope to get it back later this week or next. Am so hopeful it is "Right"

My point in posting on the fine miamixt response about ESC is the fact that even though this Bird was traveling about 30 MPH when he ran the stop sign and hit us (wife and small dog were with me) no one was hurt, thank God. (air bags did NOT deploy, as they were not needed) My main point is that we only traveled a short distance after the impact. I did not have time to react ,that I can remember, though I know I hit the breaks hard as we came to rest with the right front tire over the curb. We were shoved sideways several feet and very shortly stopped as I indicated. My guess is we traveled only about 40 or less feet, I was going about 25 MPH as we were getting ready to pull into a parking lot.

I would love to have a film of the hit and run and the actual path the car took. But I feel certain that the wonderful breaks on the Sonata plus the ESC kept us from having a much worse accident as this was a very busy four lane street on a Saturday in a medium size city.

Would love to have a read out of the actual activation that the ESC went through.

craigbrooks

I know I should not ask this because I probably don't want to know but.........where can I find a link to TSB's for my I4? And shouldn't I get some credit for asking about the ESC? :shades:

craigbrooks

I might add the ticking is only under load. I can raise the rpm's in park and not hear it. Come on motorheads give me a fix! :shades:

jlindh

If you're not familiar with the sound of pre-ignition "knock", you might try a tank of premium fuel. Ticking under load sounds suspiciously like knock to me. What could be causing the knock is another question, however.

guest

We all learn from each other!. Very glad you were not injured :sick: . I have a owned 12 Cars in my life, and the new Sonata seems to be the safest one by far!.

Had a Turbo Subaru Forester XT, and was sold on its safety. What a crock, while the AWD worked great while going straight, that thing was a death trap :lemon: . Very light in the back, and lost road traction really easily.

The Sonata feels & drives solid. Sure the rear wheel spins sometimes (on a Front Wheel Drive Car????), which is my only complaint with the powerful V6 Motor!.

miamixt

I'm sorry, the above post was provided by MiamiXT. I show up as the unknown poster at times, sometimes I don't even get the Sign In option. Help Sylvia & Pat!.

craigbrooks

Am familiar with knocking and this is not it. Sounds more like lifter ticking and correct me if I'm wrong (which I have been known to be, once I think) solid lifters won't tick for a short time then stop. If they are misadjusted they would tick the whole time. I like the timing chain tensioner theory. I took the other I4 we have in stock for a drive (should've done that before...duh) and it does the same thing. I am not going to worry as it goes away in a couple of miles of driving. Again as stated before, I am going to try 30 weight oil and see what happens. Guess what....I heard that darn gas sloshing around today, really had to listen for it.....bummer.

craigbrooks

Thanks for everyones help! I now know where to turn to if I have any questions about my Sonata.

ray_h1

HMAService.com lists the TSBs by date submitted, not in any particular engine series order. The same site also has the shop manuals for viewing. If you find that the diagrams won't display, you'll need to download and automatically install several Adobe plug-ins from the "Site Requirements" section in the initial greeting screen - the procedure is painless. Registration for access to HMAService.com is free.

bobad

Craig,

Here's a direct link to all the 2006-2007 Sonata TSB's that a kind Sonata owner hosts. Hyundai's site also has TSB's, but the link below is easier to navigate.

http://jerrystout.us/sonata/index.htm

bauk

I own a 2006 Sonata. While in traffic a similar Sonata (2006/2007)was in front of me. Whenever he applied his brakes, the high center brakelight flashed 5 times. This flashing appeared to occur only when the brakes were initally applied. Seemed like a great safety feature. Is this a standard item or some type of after market add on?

cableguy06

Never heard of this before. I'll have to check it out when I get home but I don't think that's normal.

txn428

Seems like an aftermarket add-on.

ray_h1

One word: eBay.

senior

Does everyone follow the owners manual and keep the mph under 55 mph?Its real hard to do.

craigbrooks

There is a sticker inside my door that says "campaign Completed 072" Anyone know what this was? Thanks in advance.

mamamia2

Not really.... I was driving 65-70, but tried to accelerate slowly.

What's important and significant is that you drive GENTLY and not put a lot of load on your engine/transmission and brakes. No jack-rabbiting, no revving your rpm beyond 3,000, no sudden accelerating or braking (unless you rally have to).... Just be gentle for the first 1,200, and I'd suggest keep this gentle behavior for the first 2,500 miles.

drdonrs

I did it with both, my Sonata LX and my Azera. It's not easy when you are on an Interstate Hwy with cars going 65 and 70+ mph. I put the speed control on and drove in the right hand lane. What a difference today, my wife and I went on a little day trip in our Azzy and had it up to 65 to 75 and what a ride. Just great and my Sonata does equally as well. I think it is a good idea to let the engine break in without undue strain.

bhmr59

I bought mine out of state and had to drive many miles on interstates to get home. I asked the dealer about the 55mph recommendation and he said to just keep it under 4000rpm's, which was no problem. But mine is an '05, assume the newer years would be the same.

ray_h1

)) "I did it with both, my Sonata LX and my Azera. It's not easy when you are on an Interstate Hwy with cars going 65 and 70+ mph." ((

Ditto, here. Apparently a lot of people noticed I'd bought a new car since quite a few fellow drivers waved to me. Funny thing was that they only had their middle finger extended. Never figured that one out, but, I always waved back in kind - it's only right to return a courtesy, huh? My engine consumed about 3/8 quart of oil over the first five hundred miles, but thereafter, no observable drop in oil level on the dipstick over the course of my regular 3,000 mile oil change intervals. At nearly 24,000 miles currently accumulated, my fuel economy is consistently just above 30 mpg running 10W-30 motor oil. ('03 Sonata with the 2.7L V6 engine.)

guest

Thanks for your one word reply. That was just what I wanted to find out. I have already ordered an electro flasher. Hope I don't have much difficulty installing it.

cableguy06

I looked up an "electro flasher" and found one with a starting bid of $1.00.

Is this what you purchased???

bauk

I don't believe that I purchased that one. I bought a "safety brake light flasher". Paid $18. with no shipping charges.

cableguy06

Found it. Thanks!

I think I might get one too...for only $18 with free shipping it's worth a try:)

tkumpf

I'd be interested to know how easy or difficult it is to install.

cableguy06

Looks like a very simple 3 wire hookup. A ground and then splicing two wires into the positive lead of the break light wiring.

My guess is that it will take 10-15 minutes tops if your used to working on vehicles and understand electrical systems.

mort6

Will the V6 give me a much better shot at making it to 250,000 miles? I do big millage and I plan to keep my car.

cableguy06

Personally, I don't think it matters much. If you are looking for power, get the V6. If you are looking for mileage, get the I4. Don't think you can go wrong with either one as long as you take care of them and do your oil changes regularly.

pekelopd

If you plan on keeping your car that long (I do) I'd suggest the I4 only because it's lower in cost to maintain and easier to repair than it is on the V6. As is true with most any model car. Ask around, search these forums (I've read it within) I think most people will say the same. Also if it makes any difference, I believe the I4 is Korean made and the V6 is made here(USA).

w9cw

I double this thought. If you keep your car a long time, and/or put big mileage on it, the I4 will be less costly to repair than the V6. Ask anyone who've changed head gaskets, or done anything major, on a transverse V6 configuration, and they will tell you to go with an Inline 4. Even simple things like changing plugs is much, much easier on a transverse I4 than a transverse V6 configuration. The V6 is a nice, smooth powerful engine, but if it were my choice, I'd go with a 2007 Sonata GLS with the I4. I know, not as spiffy and nice looking, but I betcha it will cost far less in the long term, and deliver better MPG to boot.

I speak from experience on the repair of a transverse V6, as I'm facing another D-I-Y head gasket replacement on my current Dodge Grand Caravan's 3.3L V6. The independent shop wants $2K to $2.5K for the job, and for that I will dedicate the 17 to 20 hours specified over the next few weekends, spend the $150 for the head gasket set which includes new valve stem seals, and do it myself. But, it isn't going to be fun!

mort6

Thank you all very much for your imput.

williewiskers

williewiskers

I got the v6 for the main reason of the vvt. From what little I know, you are always getting a tune up.

bauk

Just finished connecting the stoplight flasher. It's easy to access the light, but, you don't have much wire slack to work with. I used "butt splices" to extend the wires. Simple connections. I noticed my light flashes three times when I apply the brakes.

ray_h1

Any suggestions on how/whether to secure the circuit module other than let it dangle from its leads?

cableguy06

My flasher should be here by Friday. I would suggest using double sided foam tape to stick to the underside of the rear shelf near the bulb opening...that was my plan at least.

I also ordered a 921 style LED bulb so I can get the strobing effect versus the flash effect for a faster and greater impact.

I found the bulbs at www.superbrightleds.com

Great prices and a full 1 year warranty on all LED automotive bulbs.

I'm excited... :shades:

bauk

Guess I just took the easy way out. I covered the module with a strip of duct tape and attached it near the light opening. Cableguys suggestion about superbright leds looks interesting. Let me know how many times you unit flashs.

eagle2a

Hello everyone:

I need some help, I'll will tell you why.

I have had some problems with my 2006 Sonata. Not the cars fault, but problems with others hitting my car and someone breaking into it.

I was hit broadside several weeks ago and because the Sonata is a very secure car my wife and I suffered no physical damage although the Sonata suffered $4,500 damage.

I no sooner got the car out of the shop and it was broken into. They broke out the drivers side door glass and stole my wife's purse.

In talking to the police they told me that even though some folks are smart enough to put there purses in the trunk the crooks will break in the door glass and reach in through the broken window and release the trunk with the remote inside trunk release. They watch those parking there car and if the put there purse into the trunk they will do the proceeding to get you ID and credit cards and any money you are carrying.

Now my question.

The Sonata has a very good alarm system if the crooks try and open the doors, trunk, or hood or try and steal the whole car by driving it off when it is armed. But there is no alarm system for broken glass. The police told me that in my city they get apex. 50 to 60 break ins over every week end. Sooooo! What is the best alarm system for the scenario I have just described!

In advance, thank you very much

duke16

Can't help you about alarms,but you can lock the trunk no one can open it remotely.Open trunk and you will find a lever to lock trunk.Can only be opened by master key from outside.

jack47

Time to think about moving.

eagle2a

duke16: The only lever in my trunk is the emergency trunk release for anyone locked in the trunk so that they can get out.

There is a ring type device to pull to unlock the gas tank door if your remote in car button fails to work. But I am not aware of any other control in the trunk as you describe. I looked in the manual under "theft alarm" and it had nothing is say about the device you talk about.

Thanks anyway.