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Your comment about replacement of the solid lifters is certainly worth thinking about as well. Costs will be significant IF the solid lifters must be replaced - I guess the issue is to assess what probability one should assign to such event . Do you have any info on this ?
I was generous with the deal.. i traded a 01 Lincoln Ls v8 sport with 33k oon the odo. They made a good deal on their car and gave next to nothing on the trade. as expected.
!. then my old lincoln sells within a week.
Do not worry as i can afford to put my own 225 on.
Anyone need some new Michelen 215's 180 dollars a pair.
i refuse to kiss [non-permissible content removed] to the dealer.
they will NEVER get my business again.. my aunt and cousin were to buy Sonata's b4 christmas and i'm sending them to another dealer.
i look forward to nit picking every noise, rattle or problem. I'll scour TSB and be sure to be a pain in side.
Why all this talk about engine configurations... 10/100 mean you needn't worry yourself. the 3.3 aluminum v6 is state of the art.. a little hp challenged but a fine motor by all accouts.All review on the Sonata are favorable. i beleive all this talk about miliage , motor durability is a wast of breath.. Its Hyundai. after owning S korean weapons, electronics.. i can safely say the koreans are as proficient as thee japanese and far better than the chinese.
Hyundai salesman.. are you a Vampire like the rest of them?
sorry but your chosen proffesion is synonymous with bold face liars who if they had a conscious would never sleep a wink . With all the lying you do about everything and the false friendships you provide B4 a sale. I wouldn't trust a salseman of cars to walk my dog.. let alone tell me about timing chains and solid lifters like it matters.
If a tsb comes up ..they will fix it.. at least we can be assured that a up and coming Hyundai corp will respect the buyers of its products.
i appologize if this sounds personal.. but quite frankly i did pay for the best. they made money at both ends of the deal. i was easygoing. The automall are a--wholes for not crediting me their cost for 4 new 215 and selling the 225 at their cost price difference.
or they could have switched tires on the gls 4 cylinder they have with 225 's Like a 4 cylinder owner would give a sh-t.
Tell me the logic in not giving me the better tires?
and let me state for the record the handling difference is quite noticable. when they rate the camry and the accord as a more inspired ride.. well they should have tested the Sonata with better 225's. 215 on a car that weighs 3400 lbs thats pathetic. It looks pathetic.
Anyone buying a new 07 v6 insist on the 225's as they are the minimum width acceptable on this vehicle.
i've lived in snowy regions and anycar should have seperate tires for that season.. their is too much of a compromise otherwise. At the cost of the Sonata it gives you monetary freedom to add accesories.. and neccessities.
We basically bought 2005 state of the art japanese technology in a 2007 korean car. spend the little extra and this car is more than worh it. iknow i plan on at least 8 years of ownership.. and during that time .. tires and rims the Studie front grille.. the body kit are all options to keep it fresh.
I think you may have been mistaken in readning that the 4cyl in the new Optima is a chain motor and is basically the same motor as the new Sonata
Sorry you had such a bad experience with your dealer. If you really want to punish him take your warranty work to another dealer. They usually can do the work in less time than the factory allows and they have the opportunity to make a little money on the work. You didn't buy your rig from Cocoa Hynudai did you? When I was there last I saw a ton of Hyundais on the road. Watched his infomercial a few times too.
Go easy on Hyndai slsmn he is just doing a job like you and I and he is just doing what his manager tells him to do. If your Lincoln sold within a week it must have been in good shape. I'm in the car business too AND I bought a 4 cyl. Your right, tire size doesn't matter it's all in how you use them. :shades:
http://www.gainec.com/sonata/index.html
The later 2007 sounds like the best bet, as it will finally allow you to switch tracks/stations using the steering wheel controls. I believe black leather interior will also be available in the Limited Edition for the later 07s.
Thanks extended to both of you fellas for setting me straight on the new mu 2.7 engine ! Really appreciate it .
The way that the Kia website is set up sure led me to INCORRECTLY conclude that the 2.7 mu has the steel timimg chain with innovative link design . I have to now conclude that only the I4 has this chain.
Do either of you know what Hyundai /Kia recommend as far as WHEN to undertake the first Valve Clearance Inspection & Adjustment ? And better yet, whether an Ajustment (or replacement ) is normally found necessary ? Thanks
You're RIGHT! There are TWO timing chains installed in the mu V6 derivation of the prior delta V6 that also had TWO timing chains, too. (It's to laugh... Hyundai may've improved those two auxiliarry chains enough to let KIA division brag in its advertising, but, if so, it's left a misrepresentation in the minds of prospective buyers bordering on false advertising in my humble opinion) These two chains interconnect the exhaust and intake camshafts for the right and left cylinder banks respectively. But, the primary drive from the crankshaft up to the heads is still via a cogged, reinforced belt as before. You can look up the new mu engine's diagramatic representation in KIA's online shop manual at KIA Tech-Info. You'll need to register an email address and a password for free access. Once in, click on SHOP, designate "Model" as "Optima MG", "Year" as "2007", "Control Unit" as "Engine" and "Option" as "2.7 DOHC". Then double-click on "Engine Mechanical System" --> "Timing System" --> "Components and Components Location" The resulting diagram clearly identifies the belt visually and by name.
I have the 2006 I4 GLS. Since my first and last oil change, and the weather getting colder (if it has any relevance) I can hear this WHINING/WHEEZING sound coming from the engine... It is apparent especially when accelerating at low speed (can be heard up to about 45mph), and it fluctuates as the engine RPM fluctuates... It sounds like I have a small electrical motor that's running in parallel to my engine.
I also noted that on very wet, rainy, drizzly days the sound is noticeably LESS pronounced... My service manager can hear the sound, but has no clue, nor is he interested in investigating it...
Any theory from anyone would be appreciated...
"NOTE:
Grinding noise from the power steering pump may be heard immediately after the engine is started in extremely cold conditions (below -4º F.). If the noise stops during warmup, there is no abnormal function in the system. It is due to a power steering fluid characteristic in extremely cold conditions."
Hyundai is now filling their systems with "PSF-4"* fluid. (Mine came with "PSF-3".) I'd venture that while the newer fluid is less likely to grind, groan, 'n wheeze, it may still not be entirely silent under really cold conditions.
*I have NO idea whether "PSF-4" is backward compatible with "PSF-3", so older model owners should ask their dealership service managers, not ME.
The sound is not grinding, and it does not go away when the car warms up.
And I also thought it to be the belt, so I bought a "Belt Dressing" spray and used it on the belt. It made no difference.
Still a mystery.... the sound is like a small electrical motor, working in parallel to the engine, and fluctuating EXACTLY as the engine-sound is fluctuating with the RPM changing when accelerating only... I am suspecting it to be maybe the TIMING CHAIN? I don't know enough about the mecahnics of the engine to come up with my own intelligent idea...
Maybe you have the very first HYBRID Sonata and don't even know it :shades:
Timing chain would not cause a whining noise.
Here's a link to Craig's album: Craig's Pics.
I have had a convertible since 1990 and was The president of the convertible club in Spokane, WA in 1995. We gave rides to people in parades every weekend during the summer. When I moved to Montana my town really only has one parade and that is the 4th of July. I have been in it since 1996. Nothing like strutting your stuff wouldn't you agree?
I love a parade. My first one was in 1976, I was a junior in high school, borrowed a 57 T-bird from a neighbor and drove our class relay queen around the football field. I kept that car all day.
Enough about parades......back to the issue at hand, our wonderful Sonata's.
BUT THERE IS SOME NEW REVELATION:
I actually went to my mechanic this morning, and said he is pretty sure the problem is with the ALTERNATOR, which makes a lot of sense, since the whining/wheezing sounds very much like an ELECTRICAL MOTOR...
He listened to the sound while racing the engine at 2,000-2,500, he then attached a long metal rod to the Alternator and put it close to his ear. He says there is a kind of a STETHOSCOPE that one can easilly detect the noise's origin... The fact he was able to so easilly come up with a logical idea, yet my guys at the dealership -- couldn't -- is not very encouraging, though not very shocking....
The question is -- what do I do next? How do I convince the lazy folks at the dealership to replace my alternator if it ain't really broken (eventually it WILL brake)? Do I have to contact Hyundai (how?) to convince them that the Alternator is bad? What do you do in a case like this?
In the absence of anything reflecting common sense on the part of the service manager, just keep your cell fully charged and drive the car until the errant shaft bearing(s) sieze(s) up. Then call the dealership to come tow your car in. The boobs shouldn't have too difficult a time assessing what went wrong when they see the shredded serpentine belt remnants fused to the pulley. (There are good mechanics and then there are some dealership mechanics who can't pour the contents of a chamber pot out even with instructions printed on its bottom...)
I'll be back with the results. At this point I'm keeping my gun under the seat, fully loaded. Just kiddin. Actually dead serious. Never mind.
Regarding your issue:
What my car did not come with was the new audio configuration that allows you to switch tracks and radio stations via steering wheel controls (also a late '07 model feature). Mine only allows you to mess with the volume and switch between modes.
This is an easy, popular DIY upgrade for '04 ~ '06 owners in Korea. New part with seek function costs only $13 plus $4 for new wiring. Unfortunately, I am not sure whether you can buy this part cheap in the states.
Part cost: about $400.
They call it "super vision."
Also, 2.4-liter 4 cylinders modelds come equipped
with 5-speed automatic.">
<img src="http://www.sonataclub.net/board/data/diy_board/16720_20061209140203_1.JPG
Let me first say how thankful I am to Edmunds and this Sonata forum in particular - that's why I am now a proud owner of two Sonata NFs - the 4cyl GLS'06 and the 6cyl LX'06.
If this post may seem a bit longer than necessary, please excuse this Edmunds newbie and have a bit of patience to read it to the end if the post title rings a bell for you.
I am writing this message with the hope that somebody may have some advice or insight into two serious enough problems I've encountered with my two Sonatas. They're great cars, particularly the LX, and the only problems I currently have are the two I will describe below (my GLS had a gas gauge stuck half-way from E to F, which was fixed promptly by local dealer under warranty).
My 4cyl GLS'06 has a significantly inferior braking feel compared to the LX'06. In a simulated panic stop situation, hitting the brakes on the LX slowes down the car very fast - much faster than my GLS. It is almost as if my brakes on the GLS don't bite as much as they do on the LX - the car slows down, but not as fast (even if I hit the brakes hard, at my 200lbs that's a lot of force). Because I get to drive both cars, I am constantly experiencing this difference and always have an uneasy feel when driving my GLS.
I mostly do city driving (Bay Area), and being busy enough I just lived with this braking problem - always worrying on a highway that if I need to do a panic stop I may not be able to stop the car fast enough. A few weeks ago, I decided to go to my local dealer. The shop foreman drove my GLS, and concluded it feels fine. After I insisted they check the braking system, they ended up replacing the rear brake pads because of that TSB on "4cyl brake moan", and said they bled the brakes. However, after driving the car again, I cannot sense any change in the braking feel. Of course, dealer says all brake pads are fine, brake fluid should be fine, and that the car brakes OK for them.
So, I am not sure what to do at this point. The 4cyl GLS and 6cyl LX should have the same brake system, don't they? If so, why one car brakes so much worse than the other one. Has anybody experienced anything like this with their Sonata? I would appreciate very much any advise or insight you may have. The only other symptom I can offer is that the handbrake on my 4cyl GLS needs to be pulled much higher until it grabs, maybe twice as much, compared to the handbrake on my 6cyl LX - something on the order of 4-5" on my LX and 8-10" measured from the end of the lever.
The second problem I have is with my 6cyl LX'06, and related to a sudden engine power surge when braking from say ~20mph to a full stop. One day I was pulling up in my parking spot with my foot on the brake to keep the car moving forward slowly - out of a sudden, car jumped forward so suddenly that I almost hit the wall in front of me. It was a scary incident because I stopped <1ft away from the concrete wall (thank God to a curb stone).
Fast forward today, when I was driving in the city, and made a 90deg turn with maybe about 50ft to go before a stop sign - had my foot lightly on the brakes through the the turn, and shortly after I made the right turn, while my foot was still on the brakes, out of a sudden I felt the engine revving up and the car try to accelerate - since I was already braking, I applied more pressure and the car stopped in time. It was very weird, and something I've never experienced in any of the other cars I drove.
Trouble is my wife drives the LX, and I begun to worry for her. I only drive the LX on weekends (GLS stays parked, because of the inferior brakes), but after today's experience I am convinced something is wrong with my LX - I checked online for the TSB's for Sonata NF, but could not find anything relevant.
Has anybody experienced anything similar to this sudden power surge in their 6cyl 2006 Sonatas? I would be very grateful if you could describe what fixed this problem.
Thank you all very much.
(newbie) Jon :confuse:
Don
As to your "power surge" -- this has been reported previously about the V6 Sonata. Here is what I found out on another Sonata forum:
"it could very well be power-steering related. Most cars monitor pump pressure, and especially at full lock, may raise the idle to compensate for the power the pump is eating up, and you end up feeling this, esp. in gear."
I never noticed this on my I4 (seems like you neither), but we also own a new Civic that has the same thing, with the engine surging a bit while the steering wheel is turned EVEN SLIGHTLY at low speed....
BTW, what is the bottom button in the back...Mute? I tried to look up more info from the source of your pics (Sonataclub) but I can't read Korean.
I think the volume control is moved to the left and the right section does the radio/CD track seek function. The left bottom switch is the mute button as you have stated.
<img src="http://tendown.co.kr/web/product/medium/tendown_1059.jpg
I previously owned a 2006 4cyl GLS and now a 2006 6cyl GLS. The brakes are the same for both cars. I also drove a 2006 Sonata LX loaner car for a couple of days and never got the impression that the LX had superior brakes. In fact I recall reading a Consumer Reports review of the 2006 Sonata where they tested the stopping ability of a Sonata with 16" wheels and one with 17" wheels and their tests revealed that the car with the 16" wheels stopped quicker than the one with the 17" wheels. I recommend that you test drive a 2007 GLS (with 16" wheels) to see if you experience the same issues as on your GLS. If you don't then the brake problem is unique to your car and you should demand the dealership and Hyundai fix it.
You should just stick to reading, and quit posting.
No, just kidding! :shades:
Sorry for your problem. It sounds like the brakes could be heat glazed. If the dealer didn't pull the pads and examine them, he doesn't really know.
Heat glazing is usually caused by repeated high speed braking. Changing the front pads would probably cure it, an dbetter braking habits would prevent it. I think cruise control is VERY HARD on brake pads, and can cause warped rotors. How? I have noticed several drivers that set their cruise at 65-75mph, and habitually brake down from that speed to nearly a full stop. I consider that an "emergency stop"! It can cause the pads and rotors to get red hot. Always tap the cruise button or brake pedal to kill the cruise, and coast down to ~35mph before applying brakes. Both brake wear and gas mileage will improve. Good luck with your problem, and Merry Christmas!
Do-it-yourself service is no basis for an automaker to deny a warranty claim per se, but warranting an unauthorized modification on a U.S. spec vehicle is another matter. If your installation of devices inconsistant with the specified equipment manifest for U.S. models fails to work as expected and/or results in the failure of something else, you'd be responsible for the repair costs. Odds are that worst case scenario won't happen, but just something for you to be aware of.
bobad, what you said here may be what's going on with my brakes. I noticed on my 4cyl GLS'06 that the first time I apply the brakes in the morning they seem to grab better for a little while - I guess it has to do with the rust particles that form on the rotors overnight, causing more friction between the pads and rotors. After a couple of braking cycles, the brake feel is back to the "usual" - car will slow down, just that never showing the same urgency to stop as my LX'06. I assume that if the brake pads are covered with some ceramic glazing layer, there will be less friction between pads and their rotors.
I plan to go to my dealer again next week, and I will ask them specifically if they inspected the front brake pads when I was last there with the car.
Thanks for your advice. I will keep everybody posted of once this problem will be fixed.
You are right - it seems the V6 models have bigger rotors:
Sonata 2006 specs
As bobad wrote, it may be front brake pad glazing - even if my i4 GLS is 1yr old with only 4000miles at this time. I do very little highway driving, but there is a chance the rotors were already glazed when I bought the car...
If the front pads will turn out to be fine, I guess I will just have to get used to the brake feel of the I4-GLS.
I will also try to test drive a 2007 I4-GLS just to see if there is a noticeable difference.
RHDUKE00 said he didn't feel any difference in braking on GLS I4, V6 and LX - it makes me hopeful that my current problem is just a front bake pad issue, and that my I4 will soon brake just as good as my LX. Just wondering why did the dealer missed any front pad issues ...
Thanks for your insight. I will let you all know what happens after my next dealer visit.
On both occasions, my speed was very low (coasting into my parking spot at ~5mph or so, or towards a stop sign in 50ft at ~10mph), and I am 100% sure in the latter case the problem happened after turning the steering wheel for a 90deg turn, while decelerating towards full stop (but not turning the wheel to full lock). Any power surge will probably be more noticeable in such slow speed conditions, especially with this powerful V6.
And so, perhaps you are right - it may just be related to power steering. What puzzles me is that on both occasions the surge happened while going straight, shortly after making a right turn - so, there was always a delay of a few seconds from the time I returned the steering wheel to going straight, and the time the surge happened.
I'll mention this experience to my dealer. If I find out anything useful, I will let you all know.
You certain that wasn't merely a momentary engine rpm surge as the transaxle downshifted to 1st gear?
> rpm surge as the transaxle downshifted to 1st gear?
I don't think it was this - I wasn't paying attention to what the transmission was doing on both occasions. so I can't be 100% sure.
However, if it was the transmission I would imagine that this sudden surge at low speed should have happened on more than the 2 occasions it did in the 10months I had the car so far (e.g. when coming to a stop at a traffic light).
At this time, I suspect it may related to power steering as indicated in one of the above posts, or some other unknown cause.
Will see what the dealer will say, although I put more faith in the collective wisdom of this forum. I'll also try to experiment a bit with the car during the upcoming holidays, see if I can come up with a set of conditions which allow for this issue to manifest again.
Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to you all.
Voxboy - they could be SERVICE DEMOS as my dealer has a bunch on their lot too. Once they get about 5-7K miles on them, they remove them from the service loaner fleet and put them on their used car lot. The difference between these service loaner cars and a USED one is that the service loaners DO come with the 10/100K factory warranty. A used Hyundai only comes with the remaining 5/60.
Hope this helps.
The Sandman