Hyundai Sonata 2006-2007

aalsherri

I read the information in the webpage www.filtermag.com and I feel it is a scam to get rich fast.
All very fine particles of steel like the ones pass the oil filter are "harmless" to the engine. You can get very powerful magnets from old crashed hard drives free. Such magnets are very powerful and difficult to handle. They are unnecessary and regular magnets are easy to move and should do a good job that is not necessary in the first place.
The $50 price for a set of magnets is a scam without any doubt. It is like the so called untirust electronic system. My recommendation is to change oil regularly with synthetic oil and enjoy a 300,000+ miles on almost any modern engine. Save you money and use it wisely.

pekelopd

Hey Craig, The amount of metal I found on the drain plug was minute. Almost like a metal dust, very, very fine, but you could tell it was metallic. Wasn't much of a concern, but it was my first car while still in high school, so I bought all kinds of gadgets and such for it. Lasted me a good 15 yrs! As for the Sonata, I haven't done my own oil change yet, so I don't know if there's any metal in the oil.

targettuning

Harmless? is that what you think? So the constant shedding of fine metal debris from the engine...debris so fine it passes through any filter and circulates through every area the oil does for however long one chooses to ignore it is harmless? Maybe you missed it or maybe you never looked, convinced this was a scam from the onset but there are pictures of cut open filters with the FilterMag attached showing clear evidence of collected metal scrap pulled from the oil flow. If you think a weak magnet is useful in this application you are wrong. As it clearly states in the text such magnets lack the strength to capture any metal particles as they rush by in strong oil flow. So then you are too cheap/"smart"? to spend $29.95 (you do not need a set but only one per vehicle) for a device that just may diminish engine wear but instead recommend regular oil changes (nothing wrong with that except those metal bits circulate for that time frame unchecked) and use of a synthetic oil (nothing wrong with that either except thost metal bits don't care what medium..natural or synthetic oil... circulates them unchecked). Personally, I will make an effort to minimize engine wear for a minimum expenditure so I DO feel I am using my money wisely. An ideal time to start using one of these would be on a new vehicle when shedding bits and pieces are at a maximum.

johnap2

I agree. There is a lot of junk out there. Consumer Reports did a review on similar magnets some time back in addition to the DuraLube, Slick 50, etc., garbage. I 100% agree with your assessment of using synthetic oil, a good filter, and forgetting about it. Magnets and engine oil treatments are a complete waste of money in new vehicles. Along those lines, hey, I have a great piece of wasteland for sale that is bound to make you money

targettuning

I would like to make it clear up front that I do not sell these nor do I own stock in the company BUT it makes a certain amount of sense (if only to me) that the removal of the circulating metal particles that every engine generates could...just possibly...be a good thing. What do you think?. Well I know what YOU think. Isn't that what your oil filter is supposed to do remove this kind of potentially damaging small metal particles? It would be great if it did however it can't. So,your answer is a good filter and regular oil changes just like the last guy? You must be someone else too smart to fall for this "scam". Consumer reports didn't test this particular type of magnet just the low strength "drain plug" type the other guy advocates so lets not just lump it in with everything else and consider it useless. They may be similar in as much as they are both called "magnets" but definitely not the same in much the same way a Corvette and Cobalt are both cars. I guess some people fail to see the possible value in anything different..oh where is the location your wasteland...possibly in Alaska? There may be oil below!! Who knew...ha.

pat

Here's the link: rgyip, "Hyundai Sonata Audio Questions" #37, 12 Mar 2007 9:40 am.

pekelopd

Hey targettuning, I'm curious of how you get the magnet off of the old filter and onto the new one if it's that differcult to remove.

targettuning

You must slide it off. This company sells both the basic strength (very strong) magnet and an extra strength (very very strong) used for commercial use,racing or modified engines and other extreme conditions. These cannot even be slid off and there is a built in "jack screw" to break the bond enough to remove it.

pekelopd

Interesting.... I'm gonna have to see if I can pick that up locally at one of the auto parts stores. I think it was running for $50 on their webpage. How much did you say you picked it up for?

targettuning

There is a locator feature on the webpage. If you put in your zip code and distance range from that zip it will tell you if anyone sells them locally. Also there is a brand and model dropdown that will tell you which model is used for your application. Generally speaking however most auto parts stores e.g. AutoZone, Pep Boys etc. do not sell them but I think some specialized shops like Trick Truck and those who sell speed parts do. I originally bought the first one for a Santa Fe and the basic strength model cost around $30 + shipping. Since Hyundai uses the same filter for most if not all of their vehicles I would guess they still are about that much. Keep in mind you need only one per vehicle and remember to tell your oil changer to remove/reuse it when you get your oil changed and not to toss it with the old filter. I showed it to all service managers I was interacting with (both Hyundai and now Honda)told them how to remove it (slide it off the end) and reminded them to tell their employee to reuse it. After doing that I had no trouble and all were interested in it. I use three currently...on our 06 Civic, on both my daughters and sons Elantra's...like chicken soup...It can't hurt!!!

pekelopd

I hear you! "like chicken soup". I just thought of something. Isn't most of the engine (block) made of aluminum nowadays?? If that being the case, there's not much iron for the magnets to attract, right? Just a thought. Anyone care to share a thought? Out of curiousity, have you cut away one of your own filters?? The magnetic drain plug that I used in my previous car was in a '77 Volvo 244, and that wasn't an aluminum block.

lightfootfl

Re Filter Magnet
Am I missing something here? Shouldn't the filter itself "capture" all of those little particles? If not, isn't there some kind of filter that would? I know that years ago there were oil pan plug magnets that were available for a similar type of situation, but I thought with the newer filters they were no longer necessary. :confuse:

targettuning

No I never retrieved any filters since I have dealer service departments do the changes for me. Although many blocks are aluminum remember all aren't and in any case the iron particles can come from the bearings which are an alloy of iron (babbit)plus all other rotating items i.e. crank, connecting rods, camshafts, rocker and lifter assemblies either ride on bearings or are cast of forged iron/iron alloy themselves. There are still plenty of places for dangerous ferrous fragments to come from.

targettuning

The "key" word here is should...they cannot. If oil filters were to be made so tight as to not pass the fragments in this micron range they would not pass oil fast enough to be able to lubricate your engine. The fact is the medium in a common oil filter is a paper product and it cannot be fine enough to do this job anyhow so there is a compromise as to how small particles (in microns) a filter will capture/pass. Most of what I am paraphrasing here exists on the FilterMag web site. It is better and more completely explained there so if you are interested I would recommend you check it out. Once again, the weak drain plug magnets cannot capture and hold these fragments out of strong and fast oil flow. Even newer and better filters cannot filter down to the level of the size of much of this stuff. It is small but constantly circulating wherever oil flows in an engine...everywhere!

samiam_68

If you strap a magnet onto a steel or iron-based metal object, such as an oil filter, the object will act as a magnetic shield. Therefore, while the magnet is strapped to the OUTSIDE of the filter, the INSIDE of the filter has no magnetism whatsover, rendering the magnet completely useless. Physics 101.

joe131

Hmmmmmm...

Rebuttals?

targettuning

Are you joking??? This is a totally idiotic statement...did you fail Physics 101? This magnetic field is so strong the thin metal shell of an oil filter has NO shielding affect whatsoever. After actually seeing this thing in operation...how it SNAPS to the filter when you get within an inch or so of the housing...how it is virtually impossible to pull it off. Well,to say the magnetic field generated by this is strong is an understatement. I find your statement pretty much laughable. Shielded indeed!!!

samiam_68

Sorry, but you are incorrect. Even a very thin ferric metal will act as a shield to any magnet, regardless of how strong the magnet is. Look it up.

Here's a very simple explanation and experiment, sparing you the deep scientific research.

http://www.exploratorium.edu/snacks/magshield/index.html

johnap2

I cannot believe this topic is still going :surprise: Those magnets have been proven by numerous research groups to include Consumer Reports to be a complete waste of time and money. There are always going to be people who fall for whatever snake oil is currently being touted.

joe131

got a cite for a test of this particular magnet? I'd like to read it.

duke16

Whats a cite?Is it a magnet?Ask any REAL mechanic about a magnet,he will tell you don't waste your money.

kimweigel

What if the oil filter were non-metallic (PVC for instance). Would the super-duper magnet have a chance to trap the metal particles then?

mshct

A magnet would work through PVC or other materials that aren't a magnetic shield, but then you'd need to come up with a new way to hold the magnet to the filter.

But with the bulk of the engine being made of aluminum, I'm not sure what good it would do.

whisper1

Can someone provide a summary of common problems for the 2006 Sonata.

I am interested on the 2007 top Sonata V6 and the 2007 top Mazda 6 V6. The Sonata is about $4k less then the Mazda. I own a 93 Protege and 01 MPV, every happy with Mazda. I have read that Hyundai QA improved a lot and hence consider it.

Too bad the Sonata doesn't have HID and the Mazda6 doesn't have stability control.

backy

I am kind of surprised you would even be considering a Sonata, since you have a Protege and MPV and seem to like the way Mazdas drive. The Mazda6 and Sonata have a much different driving feel, with the 6 being the better handler and the Sonata a smoother highway ride. The Sonata is also much roomier than the Mazda6, especially in back; the Mazda6 is actually closer in interior room to the Elantra.

Both cars are rated Average in overall reliability by CR, but the Sonata was redesigned for 2006 and the Mazda6 dates back to 2003. The 6 will likely be redesigned for the 2008 MY (something to think about--if you can wait awhile). Given that each car is roughly the same in reliability, maybe you should focus on areas where the cars are distinctly different--ride, handling, room, crash safety, active safety features, styling, warranty--in making your decision? Just a thought.

By "top end" Mazda6 V6, do you mean the Mazdaspeed6? If so, that car really can't be compared to the Sonata IMO. If you mean the Mazda6s, I am surprised you can't find a better deal on the 6, since in my area dealers are offering $5000+ off on them.

whisper1

I am aware the Mazda 6 has better driving dynamics. I actually prefer the firmer ride. I read the Sonata is reasonable in handling. Unfortunity, money has a big part in the decision too.

In order of preferences, these are my choices (all 2007, all V6, all loaded, MSRP listed in CAN):
1) Camry with the sport handling package, $37k
2) Altima, $38.5k
3) Mazda, $34.5k
4) Sonata $31k

I don't expect much discount on the Camry and Altima. I do expect for the Mazda, toward Sept has much better discount due to 1) the 08, 2) poor sale due to age and competition from others, 3) possibly the redesign 08.

Toward Sept, expect to knock $5k off the Sonata and $8-$9k off the Mazda (if the 08 is indeed redesigned). It will be a bit tight with three on the back seat on the Mazda6, better on the Sonata, a lot better on the Camry and Altima. I will take the MPV for family purpose.

backy

It appears you haven't driven the Sonata yet. I recommend you do that soon, and all of these cars. That alone may knock some of them off your list. The Sonata and Camry will be more alike than the Mazda6 and Altima. A good price isn't worth much if you won't like driving the car for several years.

joe131

Sorry for the jargon.
I was asking for a reference, you know, the title, date and page number of an article.

sandman46

Rented one and was very happy with the car. I'd stay away from Mazda. Have a '05 3s and with only 27k on the clock, feels old and creeky. Done the Toyota and Nissan thing and feel the Sonata will be the best bet overall.

The Sandman

targettuning

My final word on the FilterMag...like anything else that is optional in life if you do not like the theory don't believe it. If you don't believe in this particular idea don't buy it. To you I ask this...I would like to know which mechanic is a REAL mechanic and if I find one of those how do I know he/she will agree with another REAL mechanic on this subject or any other for that matter? Pretty broad statement bub considering opinions are like "blank"holes...everybody has one. Ask ANY real mechanic indeed !!
To another poster who thinks a thin filter canister would act as a shield...in spite of your little home project showing shielding somehow would affect the performance of this product try looking a little further on the FilterMag web site (assuming you looked at it at all) and you will see some photos of cut open filters with clumps of ferrous (iron) meterials clustered in the area of the attached magnet. You will also see the distinct pattern of the arrangement of the individual magnets on it..looks like it works to me! There is an explaination of how and why this works there too in spite of the shielding theory.
To yet another poster who wondered if aluminum blocks eliminates the need for this item. Guess what!!! all the other items within your engine including the crank..camshaft...rocker assemblies..connecting rods..all bearings and all rotating or reciprocating parts are still some form of iron either forged or machined so there are still plenty of occasions for iron particles to circulate in your oil.
To yet another poster who thinks we will have plastic oil fiters at some point. Magnets will work fine through plastic but don't hold your breath for those anytime soon.
To a few posters who need published information or proof...on the FilterMag web site there is are some oil analysis reports with and without a filtermag attached. There is also a semi-technical explaination of how and why this MAY be a good idea. Also if you Google Filtermag ( I did NOT do this) you will find all the published information to prove or disprove this that you need.
Finally, I happen to think these work but if the skeptics, cheapskates and those who are sure they are too "smart" to be suckered in on an obvious scam don't want to "invest" a one time expenditure of about $30 bucks on the chance it will help...oh well!!!

samiam_68

My final word on the FilterMag...

Amen!

sandman46

The Sandman

duke16

With all my doors locked,I used the remote to open the trunk.worked fine,but when I closed the trunk lid the alarm went off.Had to unlock front doors to get alarm off.Anyone experience this?

sandman0058

Hi - Just adding my 2 cents on synthetic oil. The first car I used synthetic on was my 1986 CRX Si (purchased new) starting with the 3rd oil change at about 9,000 miles. Car ran fine with regular oil/filter changes every 4-5,000 miles. It got totalled at 98,000. The next car (which I am still driving at 165,000 miles) was a 1992 Ford Escort GT (1.8L Mazda drive train). I started using full synthetic at the second oil change. I changed the oil filter about every 3,000 to 3,500 miles. I changed out the oil every 10,000 miles. The engine still runs strong and does not smoke or burn any oil (although it does have a few drips from old seals). My mpgs have stayed steady for the life of this car (about 22 city and 29-31 highway - I keep up with traffic not the speed limit). I used this approach because synthetics do not break down the way normal oil does. I put my money (and my car) where my mouth is and have gained the confidence to continue to do this on my next vehicle. The key to my method is to use good quality filters and keep the synthetic oil clean. If I did more stop and go driving I would probably add another filter change in between the full oil changes.
Sandman

sandman46

Hey guy, I've been "The Sandman" in Edmunds since April of 2001. I've been called this since my younger days. Glad you like it to...but...it's my name...lol!

The Sandman

craigbrooks

Darn I wanted to change my name to sandman568905432876543. Guess I'll give that thought up.

sandman46

There's on one Sandman...for better or worse!!!!

The Sandman

bhmr59

Sandman, give it up, you're putting me to sleep.

sundazed

I am having trouble with rattles in the dash and seemingly in the glove compartment area in my 2006 Sonata. It is very noticeable when it is cold but as the weather warms up it mostly disappears. Has anyone else had this problem and found a fix for it. Thanks!

zakis

I have the same rattle on my 2006 Sonata I4 when the outside temperature is below around 40 degrees and I hit a bump. It's especially annoying since the car is otherwise so smooth and quiet. It's hard to tell where the rattle is coming from --probablly the dashboard but sometimes it even sounds like its coming from behind the sun visor. Let me know if you figure it out.

whisper1

For the Sonata:
Is the Stability Control works in all speed?
Applies to all 4 wheels or just the front wheels?
Does it also reduce throttle input?

For the Mazda6:
I am not sure if recent year models have Stability Control. If it has, the same questions as for the Sonata.

Thanks

sandman0058

Didn't mean to step on your toes but I've been using this monicker on YAHOO since 1/31/2000. It is a good handle.

Sandman0058

jal012773

Hey everyone. I have a '06 GLS V6 and love it. I recently took it in to have a moan in the rear wheels checked out and to have the windshield washer pump checked. Dealer said nothing they can do about the moan, ordered new washer pump, and found a tail pipe to be loose so ordered a new one for that. When I took it in to have all that fixed, I decided to ask them about the "binding wire" noise in my steering wheel every time I turn it. Now they have ordered a new clock spring. I know these guys probably know what they are doing, but I'm nervous about how replacing this might affect the operation of the air bag since I assume they will have to take the steering wheel off. Anyone else run into these issues?

craigbrooks

Don't worry about the airbag. It comes off in one peice with the horn assembly. Some DIYers have taken this off with no problems.

mamamia2

As to the moaning rear wheel, there is a TSB that's dealing with this issue, but it's about the 4-cyl. Sonatas.

Check this link:
http://jerrystout.us/sonata/tsb/rear%20brake%20moan.pdf

elennon

i bought my sonata GLS on 2/25/07, i also have this rattle when the weather is cold, but it stop if the temperature is above 45 degrees, its coming form the front window behind the rearview mirror, when this happens push on the glass at the corner near the mirror, you can hear the sound, i told my dealer about this!! also my glove department will not unlock, i 'am taking it to the dealer this morning.

craigbrooks

Steve pushed me to finally do this.

Went to go out for dinner near the ski hill here and thought I would take a drive to the area I wanted to use for the top speed run with the I4.

I drove out and found a good stretch of straight flat road and I thought this will be good for when I do it. Well....it was there so I tried.

Approx. 15 MPH crosswind.....got to 6000 RPM and speedo registered 121. Might have done better without the wind, but the car felt kinda used up, started to float a little and I was running out of road. Not to mention traffic about 1/2 mile ahead and my date telling me to slow down.

I'm pretty satisfied with this. I really thought I could get to redline though, or closer to it.

jlindh

Most cars won't get to the redline in top gear. I'm sure your date was impressed with your top speed test. How was the rest of the evening???

craigbrooks

Dinner was good.....the band was good.....got the Sonata out on the highway....

pekelopd

Sweet!!! Doesn't it feel good to NOT have a governor in you car? I've read in some other forum that someone also with a I4 hit 120mph also before they ran out of road.