Basically doing maintenance based on miles was a very crude way, as the actual degredation on engine and the car itself is greatly different when you drive on the highway versus in the city.
The new manual states that the oil life indicator checks both engine revs (city driving) and mileage and calculates a more realistic figure for wear on the engine. BAsed on this info, I would not change the oil based on miles, but based on the oil life indicator. Also, Jaxs1 is right that if you don't get to 10% within a year, then change the oil.
Engine technology has improved greatly in the last 10 years. In new BMWs, you change oil every 15,000 miles...
If you follow the manual, and hence the oil life indicator, then you guarantee that the Honda factory warranty will be in effect if something goes wrong. That is the least expensive and yet the right thing to do, in my opinion.
My little wrench light came on a few days ago, indicating that my oil life had reached 15%. I took it to the dealer that day and had the oil changed, though I forgot to mention to them that I want to use synthetic oil from now on (I'll do that next time around!). By the way, my car had about 6,700 miles on it when the idiot light came on.
Warner
PS - I have a 2006 Civic with automatic transmission and do not have a severe case of the "lug bug" with my car, although I DO know what you guys are referring to and believe that some people's cars must have this MUCH worse than mine does for them to be upset about it. It never would have bothered me, nor would I have given it a second thought had it not been mentioned here. I DID mention it to the service manager at my dealership, who gave me a stupid, puzzled look but said that he'd report it. I told him to check here on Edmunds message boards as SEVERAL people were experiencing the problem and that it could ultimately affect sales of the 2006 Civics.
I posted a little while back about various very annoying squeaks and rattles in my EX Sedan. Both front driver and passenger door panels were the biggest offenders. After complaining a few times to the dealer, they ended up replacing both panels under warranty. So far 1 month, no more creaks or squeaks there. I was finding a buzz, vibration coming from the drivers side seat belt adjuster thingy, so I recently pulled it apart(it's not too hard, just be careful not to scratch plastic) and put some foam weatherstrip material in there. So far, so good after 1 week. I'm down to 2 more rattles: 1. somewhere in the dash under the glovebox 2. rear deck I found that many people are having rattling rear deck issues, and apparently it is due to the deck not being fastened down all the way. Since I plan on putting some better speakers in the car once the weather gets better, I'll address it then.
I AM getting the 1500 RPM "Lug Bug" or whatever it is, and have been since I've had the car. It seems to happen at around 40 MPH and 1500 RPM. I reported this to the dealer 3 times, but keep on getting "Cannot reproduce", so I reported it to Honda USA. After speaking to a trusted friend who is an auto mechanic, he told me after I described it to him as a transmission software issue, and Honda may be working on an upgrade to the AT software. According to him, the more people report/complain about this issue, the faster Honda will try to issue a fix.
While prowling the 8thgencivic forum I noticed a topic regarding the setting of a custom message that pops up when the radio is turned on. Does anyone know how to set this up and whether it can be done with the standard EX radio?
you have to know what car people talk about always. people talk but never put the car they own down. they just assume. That custom message is only for the Si
I also had a vibration near the bottom of the glove box. if you tap on the glove box when it is closed, you can hear a buzz sound. Dont know how to fix that myself expand bang on the glove box which makes it go away for a bit.2006 civic lx. the front passenger window buzzes. If it is rolled down a tiny bit, the buzz goes away. if it is all the way rolled up, the buzz comes back. dont know why.
U haul has hitches - they order them in when you ask. they are not in stock. And my bike shop gave me a quote on a Thule roof rack; so I guess Thule has these in stock (the bike shop guy had to call Thule)
Any word yet on when a tow hitch will be available? I'm also waiting for Thule to release adapters for a roof rack....'06 Civic EX Sedan Automatic
In my 2006 Civic Hybrid behind the Nav screen above the cd slot is a Pc Card slot does anybody know what kind of Pc Card fits in there si I can purchase it and put music on there, I called the dealer and they did not know.
It does not actually read a pc card but reads a pc adapter card. The adapter card has has a place for you to insert and reads compact flash memory, sd memory, etc. You can buy them at Best Buy but cheaper on the internet like New Egg.com. Why they didn't make the Navi capable of reading SD memory straight from the memory stick makes no sense to me, but appently they are trying to make new technologies hard to use?
I own a 06 Civic Sedan Lx and I'm a newbie. For those who are good at maintain your wheel, what gas do you suggest me to feed my car? levels of octane 87, 89 or 93??
The Honda engineer that designed one of my Hondas wants 87 Octane and the one that designed my other wants 91 Octane minimum!
Supposedly, a Honda Engineer said that you could achieve 10 more horspower on a V6 using 91 Octane. No one has ever been able to produce a direct quote;I think was a quote of a newpaprer reproter talking to a car testing magazine who supposedly talked to a actual Honda design engineer that said you ger extra horspower.
The real answer that has been stated many times before and seem to offend a new poster is RTM (Read the Manual). If your manual says use 87 then use 87. If it says the 87 is okay but 91 is recommended, then it is your choice, but 91 might be wiser. But if it says use only 91, Like the Si Coupe and the S2000, then I would use only 91. The upcoming Si Sedan will require 91. Other Civic and Accords require 87, why spend more money if it isn't recommneded and really has less power ( higher octane burns more even under higher compression and does not produce more power; it is actually less). The only time to go to higher octane than recommended is in older cars with carbon build-up that in effect have increased the compressio ratio. With newer knock sensors you may not hear the pinging, but you might see reduced power. In those cases of older cars that are quite performing up to snuff you mmight want to try a higher octane level.
RTM and Read previous threads! Many questions have already been discussed and have already been answered thoroughly.
Have a good day, my ship came in!
MidCow
P.S.- I think the extra 10 horsepower is bll puckey
The only study I remember reading indicated that many modern cars will produce more horsepower with higher octane fuel, but the horsepower is at the higher rpm range and if you stay within "normal" rpm range the performance difference is negligible to non-existent.
Sometimes cars that "require" premium will also run fine on regular - the "premium" requirement is to optimize the horsepower rating the manufacturer can publish.
In any case it seems to take a tank or two of gas for engines to "re-learn" their engine control, at least when you increase the octane - while the knock sensors will quickly pick up knocking and detune the engine, they don't seem to as quickly "up"-tune the engine when you put in better gas.
I put mid-grade in both our CR-V and Dodge minivan (4 cylinder). Seems to help optimize performance without driving cost up too much. Although sometimes I wince at the pump these days.
let me clarify one point, I DID read the manual. It says 87 OR HIGHER. thats why I ask that stupid question. but some answers do help me a lot. Thanks!
The reason for more horsepower is simple. The car is designed for premium (91 Octane) and with regular (87 Octane)the knock sensor comes into play and the ignition is electronically retard reducing the horsepower. If you can remember older cars that didn't have knock sensing and electonic ignition the car would start "pinging" with too low of Octane.
However, If a car is absolutely designed to run on a low Octane , then providing a higher octane does not increase the perfromance or horsepower.
However, if the car was designed to run on a higher octane and you are running a lower octane forcing your engine microphone to detect pinging/kncking and forcing the elctronic retardation, then increasing the octane will increase your performance and horespower.
Cheers,
MidCow
P.S.- The pummp wincing is just getting ready for another round with the customer losing again.
In his/her post #3676, nosliw wrote that they are driving an 06 Civic LX sedan. That's why I wrote that they should use 87 octane fuel. Had he/she written that they were driving a Civic SI or an Accord V6 my response would have been more along the lines of your message.
I love my Civic, but there are two major problems.
First, the engine vibrates A LOT when it idles as 650 to 700 rpm. It also vibrates at above 700 rpm too, but that's less unbearable, since when it is moving, road noise helps cover up the vibration. When idling, it shakes so badly that my leg gets numb. The dealer says that it needs complaints from more users to pursue this problem with Honda. They say the rely on their computer diagnostic, which detects nothing wrong with the engine. Does any of you have a similar problem? My engine also makes a constant, very loud, ticking sound as well. The problem existed from day one, and now, 2000 miles later, it is getting worse, not better.
Second, lots of users are reporting 37 MPG with 50% city driving. I drive 70% highway, with minimal congestion, and I am getting between 29 to 32 MPG. I am a VERY, VERY gentle driver, 55-60 mph top, cruise control always, minimal use of brakes, never rev engine, very soft acceleration. My tire pressure is checked weekly, pumped exactly to 32 PSI according to the User Manual. How do other Civc owners get such good mileage? Do I have a lemon on my hand, or am I missing something?
I would thankful for any ideas/suggestion from anyone.
from my understanding of Octane ratings, Octane rating is sort of a measurement of the amount of Octane in the fuel way back when standards were being established.
The lower the octane amount in the fuel, the faster the fuel ignited - hence, a faster, more intense explosion.
The higher the octane, the slower the fuel burned - a less explosive, less hard hitting explosion, but exploding over a longer period.
if i'm correct, one of the reasons that high octane fuel is better is that it lets the piston cycle through the top dead center of piston travel and the majority of the explosion happens when the piston is traveling down through the power stroke.
the lower octane burns much more quickly smacking into the piston traveling toward the top dead center (tdc) during compression stroke and causing knocking, but you get a more powerful explosion.
this is why the honda engine designed for 91 octane has to electronically retard the ignition, to give the piston time to get to tdc.
but wouldn't the engine designed for 87 octane (lower) fuel be more efficient using 87 octane, or is 91 still better and/or more efficient?
i'm going on 20 years since i learned this stuff, so if anyone knows better or that i'm full of "bill puckey", let me know?
by the way, Octane, while still used, is not what is solely used these days to regulate the octane rating. toluene factors very much into today's octane rating. (the more, the higher the octane rating)
I have an 06 civic ex at and have not had any vibration problems,,, i do hear a ticking noise while its idleing but its not bad. As far as the gas mileage goes,,, most of the peeps i've heard from are not getting anywhere what is advertised with gas mileage. The best i have ever got is 31mpg and the worst was my first 2 tanks and they pulled 26mpg. But here lately i have been getting a consistant 29mpg. My car has just over 3500 miles on it. Hope this helps some. I don't think your vibration is normal though, and would definatley have it looked into further.
Took possession of my '06 EX Auto Sedan almost a month ago. I'm a very happy camper so far. I'm getting 30-32 MPG for my usual mixed driving. On my one and only road trip, I managed 34 (lot of miles driving 70 mph on the interstate).
I haven't experienced the dreaded 1500 RPM vibration, but I think I have a sense of what it sounds like based on how my car behaves at that engine speed. I hear a dull hum... it would have to be about 3 times louder on my car before I'd call it an annoyance. One thing I'd speculate is that it's possible the problem is related to driving habits. If your foot wants to hold the pedal at a particular position in the right driving situation, maybe that "helps" produce the vibration. I'm not suggesting drivers are doing anything they shouldn't, just thinking maybe this is a "luck of the draw" thing to some extent (sort of like being tall makes a person hit his head on things frequently).
For those unhappy with their Civics, I'd suggest driving a Grand Prix for 5 years like I did... my Civic seems so much better in so many ways!
You hit it right on the head. I've had my 06 civic ex auto sedan since Oct. with about 2k mi on the odometer. I get that same dull hum when I approach 1500 rpms on the highway. As you mentioned, its not bothersome,but sounds like something is not right. My wife's 2004 civic auto never behaves in this manner.Will definately mention this concern during first oil change.
Please, someone furnish the real life mileages of both the Civic, and the Civic Hybrid. My reason for asking is financial, so I am trying to see the actual figures rather than the advertising hype. Thank you.
1) Are some gasolines better than others? What is "Top Tier Detergent Gasoline"?
In general, Honda recommends that you buy gasoline from high-volume, major name-brand stations.
To prevent the build up of deposits inside your engine and fuel system, it is important to choose fuels that contain effective detergent additives. The detergency of some US gasolines is insufficient to provide protection from such deposits. Honda recommends the use of "Top Tier Detergent Gasolines," where available. Gasoline brands with this designation meet new, voluntary standards and have demonstrated their ability to keep engines clean through a series of demanding tests. Significantly, Top Tier Detergent Gasoline does not contain MMT, a metallic additive that creates deposits in your engine and exhaust system; (see the MMT explanation below). Fuel brands that have achieved the Top Tier Detergent Gasoline designation can be identified through their marketing campaigns, and/or by fueling station signage.
Some gas stations in our area sell oxygenated fuels or fuels that contain other additives. What's Honda's position on these fuels?
Do not use gasoline containing MMT (Methylcyclopentadienyl Manganese Tricarbonyl). MMT is a gasoline additive that is used by some refiners to boost octane. It contains the metal manganese. This additive contaminates your engine components and exhaust emission control system, and can lead to a significant increase in emissions and a loss in performance and fuel economy. Damage caused by the use of fuels containing MMT mat not be covered under warranty. Gasoline containing MMT is not common in the United States. It is prohibited in federal reformulated gasoline and in all California gasoline. However, MMT has been found in some fuels in the Southwest, mountain states, and the northwest area of New York State. MMT is more prevalent in gasoline sold in Canada, but lately many MMT-free fuels have become available. Regardless of location, the presence of MMT in the fuel will not be indicated on the pump, so it is important to ask your fueling station if their gasoline contains this additive. Alternatively, you may contact the customer service department of your preferred fuel brand with this question.
Some conventional gasolines are being blended with alcohol or an ether compound. These gasolines are collectively referred to as "oxygenated fuels." To meet clean air standards, some areas of the U.S. and Canada use these fuels to help reduce emissions. If you use an oxygenated fuel, be sure it is unleaded and meets the minimum octane rating requirement described in your Owner's Manual.
Before using an oxygenated fuel, try to confirm the fuel's contents. Some states/provinces require this information to be posted on the pump.
The following are the EPA-approved percentages of oxygenates: ETHANOL (ethyl or grain alcohol): You may use gasoline containing up to 10% ethanol by volume. MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether): You may use gasoline containing up to 15% MTBE by volume. METHANOL (methyl or wood alcohol): Gasoline containing methanol is not common in North America. Your vehicle was not designed to use fuel that contains methanol. Methanol can damage fuel system components. This damage would not be covered under warranty.
Fuels that exceed the EPA's approved oxygenate percentages for conventional and reformulated gasolines must be clearly labeled on the pump. One example of such a fuel is "E85," which contains 85% ethanol. Do not use such fuels in your vehicle. These fuels will cause performance problems, and may damage your vehicle's engine, fuel system, and emission control system. This damage would not be covered under warranty.
If you notice any undesirable operating symptoms, try another service station or switch to another brand of gasoline.
============================================
Does it help to use a fuel with a higher octane rating than required in my Owner's Manual?
Refer to your Owner's Manual for the pump octane number recommended for your Honda. Use of a lower-octane gasoline than recommended can cause a persistent, heavy metallic rapping noise in the engine that can lead to mechanical damage.
There is no advantage in using a fuel with a pump octane greater than that recommended in your Owner's Manual.
Got my Civic around Christmas last year. Has about 3,600 miles on it now - always gets 31-33 mpg mixed city/highway. Took all highway trip today, got 38 mpg finally! That was with cruise on 70 mph on very hilly road - Louisville to Cincinnati and back. (Auto trans)
In additional to vibration while idling at 650-700 mpg, I also get the worst vibration when the defogging is on (for the Civic, this also means the air cond. is on). In that case, the entire steering wheel would vibrate. I notice this when I am pulling out of an outdoor parking lot on raining days.
Also, it is good to hear more data on real life mileage. Reading the Edmunds and Yahoo Auto user reviews, you do see lots of people getting 37 MPG even with half city driving (and even with auto trans). And yet, when you look at the EPA.GOV website, only 3 out of around 25 people get that, while others are getting mostly around 33 MPG with 60%-70% highway. I wonder what accounts for the huge difference. It's not tire pressure, cause mine is checked religiously. It's not fuel, cause I use Chevron exclusively as recommened. It's also not drivng habit, since I drive like a grand parent and use only criuse control on hwy.
That vibration doesn't sound right. I think I'd have to take it in and have the service manager experience it. As far as gas mileage goes, I'm now getting 32-33 in close to a 50/50 mix of driving. And, I also drive like granny.
I will give you an insight that might help you. I bought an 03 accord when they first came out. i had the same exact thing where the car would vibrate. especially when i stopped at a red light. the vibration would increase if i had the ac on or if the lights on the car were on. if both were on, watch out. (give that a try and see if it works, make sure you are not in park but instead just stop with your foot on the brake) i have a friend that also had the same exact year, model, trim line and his car did not do that. the demo car i test drove did not do it. finally after 2.5 yrs later honda came up with a solution/problem identification. it was the engine mounts. i was told that if they were off by micrometers (the thickness) it would cause that vibration. so they eventually had to put some kind of washers/rubber stoppers to stop the vibration. it didn't really work. they also wanted to mess with the idling but couldn't because it is all computer driven. i told the dealer about my prob. the next day after my purchase and i was told that the car needed to be broken in. obviously that wasn't the case. so i kept complaining. i think it might be like the accord and since it is a new design these things happen. i was told my car was one of 1% or something that had the problem. my suggestion... take it back to your dealer. make sure they document EVERYTHING you tell them and get copies. and keep taking it back every 2 wks, or every 1 month. you may need it for future lemonlaw :lemon: fights. (mine came handy ) there is no reason for you to pay the same amount of money as everyone else and end up with a lesser car. even with honda's great name and reputation, these things happen. make sure you stay on top of it.
one last thing: make sure you test drive the car you are getting. i test drove a new one and decided to get a different color. the color i picked was not driven at all, still had the wraps and plastic on it. so if you are getting a civic make sure you take the car you are buying out for a ride and look for the vibration as i described above. hope this helps sluri
I own an EX MT and am also experiencing a severe idle vibration when the car is idling at 650-700rpm. This is most noticeable when the engine is at normal operating temperature and the car is stopped. As you are experiencing, the vibration is very uncomfortable and annoying to say the least. I have had my car back to the dealer 2X/month for this issue among others and have had the service manager and area honda rep ride in the car with me to experience this vibration. Both were able to detect it. Adjustment of engine and transmission mounts did not resolve this issue. As of last week, Honda Tech-Line's response was that this vibration is "normal" because other cars have been noted as operating in this manner. I don't understand this logic at all, unless they want to add the word "defect" after the word normal to make it an accurate statement. If this is what Honda considers "normal" for "The Car of the Year", then I made a mistake purchasing a Honda vehicle. I called Honda in California (800-999-1009) to open a case file for my car regarding this issue and suggest that you and everyone else who is having this vibration issue (and any others) to do the same. Hopefully, the more complaints they receive will wake-up Honda's engineers and enlighten them enough to conclude that this vibration issue is not "normal" for this multi-million dollar redesigned civic. If Honda does not acknowledge and find a solution to this vibration issue, I will get rid of my civic. As far as gas mileage goes, I am receiving 29 city and 33 highway. Out of curiosity, does your VIN# start with 1H or 2H?
Going on a long road trip this weekend 577 miles. Washington, DC to Chattanooga, TN. I have 5500 miles on my 06' Civic EX w/navi. When I get back I will let you guys know how she fared on gas milage. I just got the oil changed and that improved my city gas mileage.
City only....so far, with much cold weather warm-up and windshield frost melting.... averaged a bit over 24 MPG. with an EX automatic. Last fall right after purchase and prior to the onset of winter (in PA.)I had driven it on a few short out of town, moderate speed (55-60), secondary road, trips (about a 50 mile duration) and got around 28 MPG. I see no reason that with the return of warm weather and a few more miles added to the car I can't get mid-to-upper 30's on the highway.
First and foremost IGNORE the EPA estimated mileages, especially the city rating. If you can achieve 26 city and 36 highway you are doing well. You question the big differences between hundreds of consumers posting their experiences with actual gas mileage..start with all the vagueries of how much fuel IS a full tank. The pump may shut off and some may pump in a few more gallons or until the auto shut off on the pump shuts off a second time and maybe yet again. Some consider the tank full when fuel runs over the fender others the first time the nozzle "auto shuts off" Even the same owner may or may not do this the same way all the time so a difference of even 1 or 1-1/2 gallons between different users makes for a relatively big difference in over-all fuel economy. Then there is the math, simple you say but you must allow for people rounding up or down fractions of a gallon or tenths of a mile in vehicle mileage. Then there are the math errors...the flat out lies about fuel mileage...and for every owner there is a different driving style, city gridlock, or open praire, mountains, driving 55MPH or 90MPH, 1 person in the car or 4 with all their luggage, different terrain, weather conditions..different vehicle maintainence, tire pressures, boy racers who drag stoplight -to- stoplight etc etc. on and on. I would not put a whole lot of concern into the fact that you may get a couple of MPG more or less than the next guy.
17,000 miles on my 06 EX sedan auto. I have consistently achieved EPA estimates of 30 city and 40 highway. Most city tanks are 33-34; most highway tanks are 37-38 cruising at 80. I have seen as low as 30 and as high as 41. I am very nerdy and fill the tank to the same spot every time: the fuel is right at the top of the filler neck, which is usually 2.0 to 2.1 more gallons after the pump automatically shuts off. However, even if you are inconsistent as to where you stop filling, it will become insignificant over the long haul if you keep a running total of miles and gallons added for an overall lifetime mpg.
Regarding the idle vibration: I don't have it. My Civic is nearly as smooth as my Odyssey, which is to say I can barely feel anything at idle. My Civic is smoother at idle than my 04 Accord 4-cyl, which had the TSB to the motor mounts that somebody else mentioned.
My Civic did have a pesky wind noise from the driver's window that took over 18 repair attempts. At one point or another I heard things like maybe it's normal because other Civics do this, but the reality is not all Civics did this. The wind noise was finally fixed, so your engine vibration should get fixed eventually if you are persistent.
My mistake was I noticed the wind noise on my Civic when I first test drove it, and this noise was not present on two other 06 Civics I drove. I was confident Honda would fix it, and the Civic I bought was one of the first ones and was ordered with the exact color, etc. that I wanted. I never thought it would take so long to fix, and in hindsight should have just waited for another one equipped exactly as I wanted without the wind noise.
The moral of the story is to do a thorough test drive and don't take it home if it's not perfect, because it might take longer than you think to fix those little bugs. On the plus side, Honda is good about fixing things if you are persistent enough.
Same problem. Fine in Park but once you are gear and come to a stop, it is very, very noisy. Who knows what kind of long term effects this could have on the engine. Other than that though, I love the car. I will have to bring it in in the next few weeks.
careful about filling the fuel that high. you might damage your charcoal canister (part of the emissions system) since it is hooked up to the top of the gas inlet on the car.
no vibrations at idle on my 2006 civic lx auto. my problems were rattles/noisy growling sound from outside when at around 1500 rpm or so while driving only. only 1500 miles on the car so far so not going in for oil change to tackle these problems yet.
both driver and passenger triangle window seals seem to be bad. they windows are not sealed to the door. the seal came loose and curled up and there is a large gap between the window and the door frame. May be this is a cause for someones wind noise? any way dealer fixed one window then the other one got worse. so I will go in to fix it. it is a basically a big space between the triangle window and door frame on the bottom side.
I was wondering if newer built cars still have this problem or if Honda performed a running change to minimize or eliminate it? To that end I wonder if owners here who both just purchased their cars and have the noise could let us know the build date. To the best of my knowledge the bulk of these "lug bug" cars were built early on at the Ohio plant...say late last fall into early winter. Mine was built in mid September. It would be of interest to see if the January, February, even early March (if there are any of those yet) built cars have this problem..
My Civic LX AT was built in Ohio in mid-February. I took delivery 3rd week of February. It has 1100 miles on it and definitely has the "Lug Bug" at 1500 rpm. No vibration of note, just a "growl". The amplitude of "growl" or "purr" it emits from front of powertrain seems to be inversely proportional to ambient temperature. A couple of weeks ago we experienced unseasonably early Springtime weather (50 degrees in early a.m. & 75 degrees in late afternoon which are my daily commute timeframes). During this time, the sound was minimal. This week, late wintertime is back, ambient temperatures are 20 degrees lower, and the "growl" is definitely back.
If anyone has spotted any chatter from Honda about this problem, please share.
On another note, the Civic is delivering 35 - 36 mpg in daily commute driving.
Sorry you had problems. However, I don't think your dealer was honest with you. I would have taken it to another dealer or contacted Honda Customer support if something like thta ever happens again.
For those new to the site let me further clarify the "vibration" term in my original post. I do not mean a vibration in the sense that the steering wheel shimmies or shakes in your hand but instead something more like a harmonic vibration (a sound rather than a physical feel) as a result of sympathetic resonance (some other component resonating at that rpm) at the specific 1500 R.P.M. where this occurs.
I have had the same problem with numerous visits back to the dealer. My dealer has been in contact with Honda's engineers who have admitted that the problem is similar to what you might experience with a manual transmission car being driven too slow in fourth gear. You get a crowl because you're going to slow for the gear it's in. The car isn't downshifting into the lower gear soon enough. They will be working on a fix to the computer problem that controls the shifting pattern. I hope this info is helpful.
Late December I picked up my 2006 white EX Coupe. Assuming a brand new car was going to be problem free, I was in for a shock. Shock has turned into downright discouragement.
What I love: Looks fabulous, pick up, handling, great sound system
What I don't love: The mysterious 1500rpm growl/hum/vibration. Evidently Honda knows, but no known fix as of yet. Car does not always start on first try. Dealer checked immobilizer. Found nothing. Gas mileage mystery. Never have gotten over 29mpg. Windshield caulking peeling up. Glass could potentially could come off. Dealer replaced caulking Interior ceiling material, steering wheel, dash and shift consoles had defects. Dealer replaced them. Radio buttons not working after steering wheel was replaced. Dealer fixed. 2 recalls (gas pedal and ODS replacement) Interior plastic will scratch if you look at it sideways. Hearing gas sloshing around.
What I've been told by the dealer: Apparently the cars assembled in Toronto Canada are experiencing more problems than the other assembly locations. This is not comforting or acceptable.
I am checking the Lemon Law in NC. The first couple things I was understanding about, but at this point I'm quite upset. I've had to have the car in an out of the dealer 7 times. I know a lot of you have run into the same issues, and just wanted to share my experience as well.
Hi this is a very good description of the problem I have also. My car was built in Ontario Canada. I dont' know the build date ? Don't know how to find it. I did buy the car in early February. I will use your description of the growling/lugging problem when I go to the dealer. Yup, it feels just like your stuck in the wrong gear. I hope some computer programming can fix this. !!! I will bring it up to my dealer when I get my first oil change in 1 or months. In the meantime, the problem isn't getting worse.
in regards to window caulking,...the rubber seal around my triangle window on my 06 LX sedan curled up and peeled off and away from the actual door frame. So there is a big gap between the hard rubber moulding of the triangle window and the car. A big gap for water to get into. I noticed it at 400 km . It happened to both the passenger and driver door. Car built in Ontario,Canada.PUrchased Feb./06 . Build date? Dont know how to figure that one out.
You may want to check the 06 Civic Coupe thread.....read most recent 3 pages. 2 separate people are saying rear windshields have separated from car at right pillar. They apparently deteriorate quickly. One reporting that just the force of air from closing the door was raising the windshield off of the car by several inches. Only 900 miles on the car. Very scary.
Comments
Basically doing maintenance based on miles was a very crude way, as the actual degredation on engine and the car itself is greatly different when you drive on the highway versus in the city.
The new manual states that the oil life indicator checks both engine revs (city driving) and mileage and calculates a more realistic figure for wear on the engine. BAsed on this info, I would not change the oil based on miles, but based on the oil life indicator. Also, Jaxs1 is right that if you don't get to 10% within a year, then change the oil.
Engine technology has improved greatly in the last 10 years. In new BMWs, you change oil every 15,000 miles...
If you follow the manual, and hence the oil life indicator, then you guarantee that the Honda factory warranty will be in effect if something goes wrong. That is the least expensive and yet the right thing to do, in my opinion.
My little wrench light came on a few days ago, indicating that my oil life had reached 15%. I took it to the dealer that day and had the oil changed, though I forgot to mention to them that I want to use synthetic oil from now on (I'll do that next time around!). By the way, my car had about 6,700 miles on it when the idiot light came on.
Warner
PS - I have a 2006 Civic with automatic transmission and do not have a severe case of the "lug bug" with my car, although I DO know what you guys are referring to and believe that some people's cars must have this MUCH worse than mine does for them to be upset about it. It never would have bothered me, nor would I have given it a second thought had it not been mentioned here. I DID mention it to the service manager at my dealership, who gave me a stupid, puzzled look but said that he'd report it. I told him to check here on Edmunds message boards as SEVERAL people were experiencing the problem and that it could ultimately affect sales of the 2006 Civics.
I was finding a buzz, vibration coming from the drivers side seat belt adjuster thingy, so I recently pulled it apart(it's not too hard, just be careful not to scratch plastic) and put some foam weatherstrip material in there. So far, so good after 1 week.
I'm down to 2 more rattles:
1. somewhere in the dash under the glovebox
2. rear deck
I found that many people are having rattling rear deck issues, and apparently it is due to the deck not being fastened down all the way. Since I plan on putting some better speakers in the car once the weather gets better, I'll address it then.
I AM getting the 1500 RPM "Lug Bug" or whatever it is, and have been since I've had the car. It seems to happen at around 40 MPH and 1500 RPM. I reported this to the dealer 3 times, but keep on getting "Cannot reproduce", so I reported it to Honda USA. After speaking to a trusted friend who is an auto mechanic, he told me after I described it to him as a transmission software issue, and Honda may be working on an upgrade to the AT software. According to him, the more people report/complain about this issue, the faster Honda will try to issue a fix.
It seems that somehow the hot air is being blown through the entire middle console.
anyone else having this experience?
great for coffee, but not for a cold drink, it warms it up FAST!
only solution i have found is to blow only from defroster vents or panel vents, but NOT any of the bottom vents.
Its a very easy fix. Post #3461 has all the info.
however, i would assume that the new BMWs use synthetic oil to go that long?
so, i decided if my eyesight was that bad, i should stay off their forum,,,
Any word yet on when a tow hitch will be available? I'm also waiting for Thule to release adapters for a roof rack....'06 Civic EX Sedan Automatic
Please help me.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=4746519&type=product&id=1093467451- 044
levels of octane 87, 89 or 93??
Supposedly, a Honda Engineer said that you could achieve 10 more horspower on a V6 using 91 Octane. No one has ever been able to produce a direct quote;I think was a quote of a newpaprer reproter talking to a car testing magazine who supposedly talked to a actual Honda design engineer that said you ger extra horspower.
The real answer that has been stated many times before and seem to offend a new poster is RTM (Read the Manual). If your manual says use 87 then use 87. If it says the 87 is okay but 91 is recommended, then it is your choice, but 91 might be wiser. But if it says use only 91, Like the Si Coupe and the S2000, then I would use only 91. The upcoming Si Sedan will require 91. Other Civic and Accords require 87, why spend more money if it isn't recommneded and really has less power ( higher octane burns more even under higher compression and does not produce more power; it is actually less). The only time to go to higher octane than recommended is in older cars with carbon build-up that in effect have increased the compressio ratio. With newer knock sensors you may not hear the pinging, but you might see reduced power. In those cases of older cars that are quite performing up to snuff you mmight want to try a higher octane level.
RTM and Read previous threads! Many questions have already been discussed and have already been answered thoroughly.
Have a good day, my ship came in!
MidCow
P.S.- I think the extra 10 horsepower is bll puckey
Sometimes cars that "require" premium will also run fine on regular - the "premium" requirement is to optimize the horsepower rating the manufacturer can publish.
In any case it seems to take a tank or two of gas for engines to "re-learn" their engine control, at least when you increase the octane - while the knock sensors will quickly pick up knocking and detune the engine, they don't seem to as quickly "up"-tune the engine when you put in better gas.
I put mid-grade in both our CR-V and Dodge minivan (4 cylinder). Seems to help optimize performance without driving cost up too much. Although sometimes I wince at the pump these days.
However, If a car is absolutely designed to run on a low Octane , then providing a higher octane does not increase the perfromance or horsepower.
However, if the car was designed to run on a higher octane and you are running a lower octane forcing your engine microphone to detect pinging/kncking and forcing the elctronic retardation, then increasing the octane will increase your performance and horespower.
Cheers,
MidCow
P.S.- The pummp wincing is just getting ready for another round with the customer losing again.
In his/her post #3676, nosliw wrote that they are driving an 06 Civic LX sedan. That's why I wrote that they should use 87 octane fuel. Had he/she written that they were driving a Civic SI or an Accord V6 my response would have been more along the lines of your message.
First, the engine vibrates A LOT when it idles as 650 to 700 rpm. It also vibrates at above 700 rpm too, but that's less unbearable, since when it is moving, road noise helps cover up the vibration. When idling, it shakes so badly that my leg gets numb. The dealer says that it needs complaints from more users to pursue this problem with Honda. They say the rely on their computer diagnostic, which detects nothing wrong with the engine. Does any of you have a similar problem? My engine also makes a constant, very loud, ticking sound as well. The problem existed from day one, and now, 2000 miles later, it is getting worse, not better.
Second, lots of users are reporting 37 MPG with 50% city driving. I drive 70% highway, with minimal congestion, and I am getting between 29 to 32 MPG. I am a VERY, VERY gentle driver, 55-60 mph top, cruise control always, minimal use of brakes, never rev engine, very soft acceleration. My tire pressure is checked weekly, pumped exactly to 32 PSI according to the User Manual. How do other Civc owners get such good mileage? Do I have a lemon on my hand, or am I missing something?
I would thankful for any ideas/suggestion from anyone.
The lower the octane amount in the fuel, the faster the fuel ignited - hence, a faster, more intense explosion.
The higher the octane, the slower the fuel burned - a less explosive, less hard hitting explosion, but exploding over a longer period.
if i'm correct, one of the reasons that high octane fuel is better is that it lets the piston cycle through the top dead center of piston travel and the majority of the explosion happens when the piston is traveling down through the power stroke.
the lower octane burns much more quickly smacking into the piston traveling toward the top dead center (tdc) during compression stroke and causing knocking, but you get a more powerful explosion.
this is why the honda engine designed for 91 octane has to electronically retard the ignition, to give the piston time to get to tdc.
but wouldn't the engine designed for 87 octane (lower) fuel be more efficient using 87 octane, or is 91 still better and/or more efficient?
i'm going on 20 years since i learned this stuff, so if anyone knows better or that i'm full of "bill puckey", let me know?
by the way, Octane, while still used, is not what is solely used these days to regulate the octane rating. toluene factors very much into today's octane rating. (the more, the higher the octane rating)
Took possession of my '06 EX Auto Sedan almost a month ago. I'm a very happy camper so far. I'm getting 30-32 MPG for my usual mixed driving. On my one and only road trip, I managed 34 (lot of miles driving 70 mph on the interstate).
I haven't experienced the dreaded 1500 RPM vibration, but I think I have a sense of what it sounds like based on how my car behaves at that engine speed. I hear a dull hum... it would have to be about 3 times louder on my car before I'd call it an annoyance. One thing I'd speculate is that it's possible the problem is related to driving habits. If your foot wants to hold the pedal at a particular position in the right driving situation, maybe that "helps" produce the vibration. I'm not suggesting drivers are doing anything they shouldn't, just thinking maybe this is a "luck of the draw" thing to some extent (sort of like being tall makes a person hit his head on things frequently).
For those unhappy with their Civics, I'd suggest driving a Grand Prix for 5 years like I did... my Civic seems so much better in so many ways!
Thanks!
Carl
You hit it right on the head. I've had my 06 civic ex auto sedan since Oct. with about 2k mi on the odometer. I get that same dull hum when I approach 1500 rpms on the highway. As you mentioned, its not bothersome,but sounds like something is not right. My wife's 2004 civic auto never behaves in this manner.Will definately mention this concern during first oil change.
Here's info from Honda site:
1) Are some gasolines better than others? What is "Top Tier Detergent Gasoline"?
In general, Honda recommends that you buy gasoline from high-volume, major name-brand stations.
To prevent the build up of deposits inside your engine and fuel system, it is important to choose fuels that contain effective detergent additives. The detergency of some US gasolines is insufficient to provide protection from such deposits. Honda recommends the use of "Top Tier Detergent Gasolines," where available. Gasoline brands with this designation meet new, voluntary standards and have demonstrated their ability to keep engines clean through a series of demanding tests. Significantly, Top Tier Detergent Gasoline does not contain MMT, a metallic additive that creates deposits in your engine and exhaust system; (see the MMT explanation below). Fuel brands that have achieved the Top Tier Detergent Gasoline designation can be identified through their marketing campaigns, and/or by fueling station signage.
======================================================
Some gas stations in our area sell oxygenated fuels or fuels that contain other additives. What's Honda's position on these fuels?
Do not use gasoline containing MMT (Methylcyclopentadienyl Manganese Tricarbonyl). MMT is a gasoline additive that is used by some refiners to boost octane. It contains the metal manganese. This additive contaminates your engine components and exhaust emission control system, and can lead to a significant increase in emissions and a loss in performance and fuel economy. Damage caused by the use of fuels containing MMT mat not be covered under warranty. Gasoline containing MMT is not common in the United States. It is prohibited in federal reformulated gasoline and in all California gasoline. However, MMT has been found in some fuels in the Southwest, mountain states, and the northwest area of New York State. MMT is more prevalent in gasoline sold in Canada, but lately many MMT-free fuels have become available. Regardless of location, the presence of MMT in the fuel will not be indicated on the pump, so it is important to ask your fueling station if their gasoline contains this additive. Alternatively, you may contact the customer service department of your preferred fuel brand with this question.
Some conventional gasolines are being blended with alcohol or an ether compound. These gasolines are collectively referred to as "oxygenated fuels." To meet clean air standards, some areas of the U.S. and Canada use these fuels to help reduce emissions. If you use an oxygenated fuel, be sure it is unleaded and meets the minimum octane rating requirement described in your Owner's Manual.
Before using an oxygenated fuel, try to confirm the fuel's contents. Some states/provinces require this information to be posted on the pump.
The following are the EPA-approved percentages of oxygenates:
ETHANOL (ethyl or grain alcohol): You may use gasoline containing up to 10% ethanol by volume.
MTBE (Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether): You may use gasoline containing up to 15% MTBE by volume.
METHANOL (methyl or wood alcohol): Gasoline containing methanol is not common in North America. Your vehicle was not designed to use fuel that contains methanol. Methanol can damage fuel system components. This damage would not be covered under warranty.
Fuels that exceed the EPA's approved oxygenate percentages for conventional and reformulated gasolines must be clearly labeled on the pump. One example of such a fuel is "E85," which contains 85% ethanol. Do not use such fuels in your vehicle. These fuels will cause performance problems, and may damage your vehicle's engine, fuel system, and emission control system. This damage would not be covered under warranty.
If you notice any undesirable operating symptoms, try another service station or switch to another brand of gasoline.
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Does it help to use a fuel with a higher octane rating than required in my Owner's Manual?
Refer to your Owner's Manual for the pump octane number recommended for your Honda. Use of a lower-octane gasoline than recommended can cause a persistent, heavy metallic rapping noise in the engine that can lead to mechanical damage.
There is no advantage in using a fuel with a pump octane greater than that recommended in your Owner's Manual.
Also, it is good to hear more data on real life mileage. Reading the Edmunds and Yahoo Auto user reviews, you do see lots of people getting 37 MPG even with half city driving (and even with auto trans). And yet, when you look at the EPA.GOV website, only 3 out of around 25 people get that, while others are getting mostly around 33 MPG with 60%-70% highway. I wonder what accounts for the huge difference. It's not tire pressure, cause mine is checked religiously. It's not fuel, cause I use Chevron exclusively as recommened. It's also not drivng habit, since I drive like a grand parent and use only criuse control on hwy.
I bought an 03 accord when they first came out. i had the same exact thing where the car would vibrate. especially when i stopped at a red light. the vibration would increase if i had the ac on or if the lights on the car were on. if both were on, watch out. (give that a try and see if it works, make sure you are not in park but instead just stop with your foot on the brake) i have a friend that also had the same exact year, model, trim line and his car did not do that. the demo car i test drove did not do it. finally after 2.5 yrs later honda came up with a solution/problem identification. it was the engine mounts. i was told that if they were off by micrometers (the thickness) it would cause that vibration. so they eventually had to put some kind of washers/rubber stoppers to stop the vibration. it didn't really work. they also wanted to mess with the idling but couldn't because it is all computer driven. i told the dealer about my prob. the next day after my purchase and i was told that the car needed to be broken in. obviously that wasn't the case. so i kept complaining.
i think it might be like the accord and since it is a new design these things happen. i was told my car was one of 1% or something that had the problem.
my suggestion... take it back to your dealer. make sure they document EVERYTHING you tell them and get copies. and keep taking it back every 2 wks, or every 1 month.
you may need it for future lemonlaw :lemon: fights. (mine came handy
there is no reason for you to pay the same amount of money as everyone else and end up with a lesser car. even with honda's great name and reputation, these things happen. make sure you stay on top of it.
one last thing: make sure you test drive the car you are getting. i test drove a new one and decided to get a different color. the color i picked was not driven at all, still had the wraps and plastic on it. so if you are getting a civic make sure you take the car you are buying out for a ride and look for the vibration as i described above.
hope this helps
sluri
Skeeter11
Regarding the idle vibration: I don't have it. My Civic is nearly as smooth as my Odyssey, which is to say I can barely feel anything at idle. My Civic is smoother at idle than my 04 Accord 4-cyl, which had the TSB to the motor mounts that somebody else mentioned.
My Civic did have a pesky wind noise from the driver's window that took over 18 repair attempts. At one point or another I heard things like maybe it's normal because other Civics do this, but the reality is not all Civics did this. The wind noise was finally fixed, so your engine vibration should get fixed eventually if you are persistent.
My mistake was I noticed the wind noise on my Civic when I first test drove it, and this noise was not present on two other 06 Civics I drove. I was confident Honda would fix it, and the Civic I bought was one of the first ones and was ordered with the exact color, etc. that I wanted. I never thought it would take so long to fix, and in hindsight should have just waited for another one equipped exactly as I wanted without the wind noise.
The moral of the story is to do a thorough test drive and don't take it home if it's not perfect, because it might take longer than you think to fix those little bugs. On the plus side, Honda is good about fixing things if you are persistent enough.
Marc
no vibrations at idle on my 2006 civic lx auto. my problems were rattles/noisy growling sound from outside when at around 1500 rpm or so while driving only. only 1500 miles on the car so far so not going in for oil change to tackle these problems yet.
both driver and passenger triangle window seals seem to be bad. they windows are not sealed to the door. the seal came loose and curled up and there is a large gap between the window and the door frame. May be this is a cause for someones wind noise? any way dealer fixed one window then the other one got worse. so I will go in to fix it. it is a basically a big space between the triangle window and door frame on the bottom side.
If anyone has spotted any chatter from Honda about this problem, please share.
On another note, the Civic is delivering 35 - 36 mpg in daily commute driving.
Sorry you had problems. However, I don't think your dealer was honest with you. I would have taken it to another dealer or contacted Honda Customer support if something like thta ever happens again.
GoodLuck,
MidCow
What I love:
Looks fabulous, pick up, handling, great sound system
What I don't love:
The mysterious 1500rpm growl/hum/vibration. Evidently Honda knows, but no known fix as of yet.
Car does not always start on first try. Dealer checked immobilizer. Found nothing.
Gas mileage mystery. Never have gotten over 29mpg.
Windshield caulking peeling up. Glass could potentially could come off. Dealer replaced caulking
Interior ceiling material, steering wheel, dash and shift consoles had defects. Dealer replaced them. Radio buttons not working after steering wheel was replaced. Dealer fixed.
2 recalls (gas pedal and ODS replacement)
Interior plastic will scratch if you look at it sideways.
Hearing gas sloshing around.
What I've been told by the dealer:
Apparently the cars assembled in Toronto Canada are experiencing more problems than the other assembly locations. This is not comforting or acceptable.
I am checking the Lemon Law in NC. The first couple things I was understanding about, but at this point I'm quite upset. I've had to have the car in an out of the dealer 7 times. I know a lot of you have run into the same issues, and just wanted to share my experience as well.
Thanks.
-Imissmy95LX.