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Chevy Suburban



  • The seats start to warm-up then shut off, both are doing this. Is there a relay or something that can be checked? Thanks
  • discipledisciple Posts: 2
    Can anyone give me a real-life highway gas mileage number for the new (05) Suburban?
  • echo00echo00 Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply. Yes, we did replace the thermostat and put standard antifreeze. Actually we put 40 below from summit. The only thing we could think about right now is Radiator, though it looks good from outside. We will have it checked very soon. If it does not solve the problem, we have to say good bye to this car, though we like it very much.
  • mitzijmitzij Posts: 613
    check what temp level your seats are set at. the lowest only heats the seat to body temperature, medium goes a little warmer, and high goes a little warmer. there are lights near the control-one bar lit is low, two bars medium, three bars high. it shuts off after reaching preset temperatures.
  • beatfarmerbeatfarmer Posts: 244
    Yep, sounds like the radiator is blocked. Good luck with whatever you choose to do.
  • cbett1cbett1 Posts: 9
    I'm trying to find out how to replace the fuel filter on my gas Surburban. On the tank side is the usual line/nut config but on the engine side is a wierd conn to a small short flex hose. At the end of the flex hose is a metal clip which I can remove but I don't know the trick to getting the thing off. Thanks for your help!
  • On flex fuel vehicles (8th digit in the Vin is Z) it takes a special fuel filter disconnect tool. I ended up taking it to the dealer, and went back and quizzed the mechanic and the tool he used was a Kent Moore J 46363 fuel line disconnect tool, that looked like a pair of tweezers, with a tapered cone at the end, of each side of the blade. You put the cones around the fuel line, slide it up to release the spring and slide the fuel line out. I did a quick google and found another guy's answer on a bulletin board about how to get the tool. I've copied and pasted his comments below.

    Here's the deal on the 2003 VIN (Z) (L59) fuel filter. I just changed mine. This topic may even relate to the 00-04 Z71's, but I know for sure 2003's. I also had to buy the fuel filter from GM. You will need a special tool as standard fuel line disconnects will not work. It's a $40 piece of plastic that looks like a fuel line disconnect however, it is different. I found the number in my Service Manual which I bought from Helm Inc.
    It's a "J-46363 Fuel Line Release Tool."
    Finding this tool is next to impossible. After many hours of searching the net I came up with this information and though it would be important to share. You can only buy it from this place. SPX Kent-Moore Tools
    You have to call the number and give them the tool # you want. Otherwise the dealer will have to change your filter for you as there is no other way to do it.

    Good Luck, I'm due to change too.
  • cbett1cbett1 Posts: 9
    Aaaaaamazing! Sounds alot like the $40 wrench I had to buy to seperate the fan clutch from the water pump on my '96 Z71! It seems to me they waste more money developing this new crap that justifies their overpriced shop fees and requirement for special tools. So did you purchase one (is it for rent?) or are you taking it to the shop? I found your site you refered to and requested price and availability. Thanks you were a great help even if I didn't like the answer! Can you say HACKSAW and HOSE CLAMP?
  • medmed Posts: 2
    My wife’s “99 Sub 4X4 will start but dies after a few seconds. I have replaced the fuel pump, filter etc. but the problem persists. I believe it is a Passlock failure because she tells me the “SECURITY” light came on intermittently before onset of problem. Oh yes, she and one of my daughters managed to destroy or lose both remote entry switches. I would like to bypass or otherwise defeat the security system as we live in an area where theft is rare and the vehicle is 6 years old so who cares anyway? Someone please help me get this thing running without costing me an arm and a leg. I want my truck back.
  • I have a '90 that needs some heater/A/C parts. I have the unit apart however, I don't have the ability to identify any of the parts by their GM numbers. Therefore, I'm having a difficult time trying to order parts because I don't know what to call them. Is there anyone out there that knows of a website or a email address that has an exploded view of parts? I would very much appreciate knowing where to get a view of parts.


  • reils1reils1 Posts: 1
    After the "check engine" light came on, the code that the computer found was the crankshaft position sensor. When going through the Hanyes Manual it says that the car might need to have the firing order reset.My question is how do I reset the firing order, since I can replace the sensor myself or am I going to have to bring it to the chevy dealer to have it repaired. Thanks for any suggestions
  • We have a fully loaded 2004 Z71, since purchase we have had problems with fuses blowing, console faces, steering, DVD player, and stereo system being hot. One dealer measured the temps of various locations and found temps from 115 to 125. We have ejected DVD's that were too hot to touch. When we connect the boat trailer we have fuses blow. (this didn't happen with the 1996 suburban we traded in or when we hook our trailer to another suburban) We have had the vehicle in the shop 6 times for various problems - they have said they can't duplicate or the the temps of 115-125 are normal temps for the electronics. We have also had problems with brakes vibrating and loud noise., they have duplicated but haven't been able to fix. The dealer we bought the vehicle Marshall Chev in TX told us to file lemon law. Chev has offered us an extended warranty, but could not guarantee that the problems would be fix. My email is jb_cox @ yahoo . com Any suggestions or feedback?
  • hdsmasonhdsmason Posts: 2
    My 99 Suburban's temp gauge goes to max and when I turn on the heater it blows cold air. If I rev the engine up the gauge goes down and the air warms up. Is this an indication of a bad thermostat or a bad water pump?
  • hdsmasonhdsmason Posts: 2
    More info. I discovered that there was very little fluid in the radiator. After filling it the temp ran normal but the lower radiator hose never got warm. The upper hose was very hot. I also noticed that the fluid in the radiator was not moving. I thought it would circulate once the thermastat opened.
  • 2005burb2005burb Posts: 3
    I get 19 MPG on the hwy per the trip computer. It drops to 15.5 mls for local and hovers about 17 for mixed hyw in city driving.
  • 2005burb2005burb Posts: 3
    I have a gray 05 burb with 7000 mls, I recently noticed that the paint on the hood was faded and almost looks like it had over-spray on it. Also noticed were small areas around the door edges where the paint was flaking off. The doors were not banged on anything and the truck in the garage all day. The dealers agree to re-paintg the hood but refuses to repaint the door edges. Is anyone else having any probs with there paint job?
  • dick4dick4 Posts: 1
    I bought a new fuel filter and went to change it and had trouble finding the darned thing! Could someone help me locate it? Do I need any special tools? Are there any tricks in changing a fuel filter on a vehicle with fuel injection? The package made reference to possibly needing to relieve pressure in the system before removing the old filter. Thank you.
  • billb1billb1 Posts: 1
    I have owned my 1995 Suburban its whole life. Its got 160,000 miles and runs great. The master cylinder has a small leak and the A/C is weak, other than that no sign of any problems. I have changed the oil every 3000 miles along with other regular maintanance. How long can I expect the Transmission and engine to last? I am trying to decide if I should sell it now while it still has some value or wait and take a chance on putting alot of money into it in the future. Another thing, the mechanic that maintained it for the last 10 years retired and closed up shop and I haven't been able to find a new one.
  • beatfarmerbeatfarmer Posts: 244
    Could be much worse. I had the same thing happen on my 99 and it turned out to be a leak in the intake manifold gasket due to "Deathcool" antifreeze. Do a search on dexcool problems. Had to pull the intake and put in new gaskets.
  • burbmomburbmom Posts: 4
    Hi all ,
    I am new to this forum. I have a 2000 chevy suburban LT . I love it. I have a question for those who work on their burbs themselves. Is it worth for me to take my burb in for the throttle body to be cleaned or is this something that is relatively easy to do ??
    My gas pedal has been sticking awfully and I read on this forum and someplace else that this will solve the problem.
    thanks in advance =)
  • There are no special tools. The filter is located on the frame between the driver side front and rear door. There are not any tricks, just becareful when the line is disconnected, there will be some spillage. Other than that you are good to go.

    -DeaconLew ;)
  • Here's a new one for you!.
    About two months ago I noticed a "rattelling/squeeking" sound comming from under the front carriage of my 2003 suburban> Sounded like the "chirping" you hear from the brakes when worn but woulddissapear after 1/10th of a mile or so. No specific reason or conditions it would appear under but it was loud and very noticable. Had brakes, new tires, and front end redone- no luck! still there- ideas?
  • gkleegklee Posts: 1
    gfergie - My 1999 Suburban has the same thing going on...I replaced the combination flasher switch (under the dash) hoping for an inexpensive fix. The problem is still there...were you able to solve the flasher problem..if so, how?
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,721
    I have an '00 LS w/ 50k miles and about 2 months ago my throttle was sticking also. I went to a auto parts store and picked up an aerosol can of Throttle body/intake cleaner. I removed the air intake at the opening of the throttle body and sprayed the cleaner in while opening and closing the throttle. This fixed the sticking and haven't had any issues since.
  • burban93burban93 Posts: 2
    :lemon: a 4x4 surburban with good truck michlins tires is the best 4x4 u could have. one question though, if u live where there is snow, why did u buy a 2 wd surburban? trade yours in on a 4x4! good luck! :)
  • burban93burban93 Posts: 2
    i have a 93 2500 3/4 ton burban and i had a/c problems as well in the rear vents. after calling several mechanics and chevy dealers i found out it was an orphus tube or screen filter or whatever u want to call it, was probably plugged. i had no idea how to get to it nor what it looked like nor how to fix it really. i called ghent cheverlet here in greeley co. and the nice man explained the details and printed me out sheets from the computer that shows all the parts and how to reconnect them. i guess my advice to u is contact a respected delership and talk to the parts dept. to see if they could help you in the same way or try chilton books. i wish you luck i know i needed it! :)
  • cbett1cbett1 Posts: 9
    Usually they've been close to the transmission crossmember on the drivers side. The trick to relieve the pressure is locating the schrader valve on the fuel line near the top of the intake manifold. Then if your new fuel filter has threaded fittings on each end you won't need a fuel line removal tool. I'm not sure when Chev changed over but on my '03 Burb I needed a fuel line removal tool. Have fun!
  • cbett1cbett1 Posts: 9
    Well last night was the night! Not able to justify a $40 removal tool I made a quick trip to AZ and I'm bringing home a $10 fuel line disconnect tool. I relieved the pressure at the shrader valve and got the filter off no problem. The trouble was getting the hose off the filter. The connector was soo close to the can that the removal tool wouldn't get in there to release the quick clip. So I hack sawed it off between the hose and filter and was then able to get in there with my modified disconnect tool and some needle nose so I could remove the nipple from inside the hose. Only took me an hour but hey - it was time well spent!
  • mtbrtwmtbrtw Posts: 1
    I have several rattles in my doors on my 97, do I need to replace the seals to rid the problem?
  • We have a 2005 suburban with about 5K miles on it. When we stop the car (and sometimes while we are driving it) we hear popping and pinging noises coming from underneath. We have been told that it has to do witht he catalytic converter and the heat shield, and that it is normal, but the noise is awfully loud, and this just does not seem right...anyone have this experience, or can add any input? Thanks! :confuse:
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