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Chevy Suburban



  • I just picked up a 05 and it pinged and popped at cool down quite a bit. I found the tsb that was suppose to reduce it. But when I go it back it made more noise and even loader. I'm taking it back to the dealer to get it checked out again. I can deal with a low ping at cool down, but when it ping when I drive and idle and you can hear it from 2 houses down, that's just ridiculas, especially what we pay for these cars :mad: If i can't get it to quite down, I'm really tempted to get a cat-back.">
  • trevdtrevd Posts: 1
    Let me start by saying that I am a novice at this so my procedure/instructions are pure sandlot. However, this is the second time I have changed my PCV valve in my Z71. So here it goes. First off You have to remove the plastic valve cover (should have Vortex stamped all over it). Second, locate what I call a shiny aluminum tube/coil located near the top right of the area that was covered by the valve cover. Directly behind the coil you will see a thick black hose. Follow the hose downwards and towards the front firewall (in the direction of the windshield) of the engine bay. The PCV Valve is attached to the end of the hose.
  • I have a 2000 Suburban with under 60000 miles on it. I recently went to Ohio and on the way filled up my gas tank. When I came out of the store, I found gas was leaking from the tank. I thought I must have over filled the tank. A week later when the tank reached 1/4 level the truck would not start. It turned over fine. No gas was being pumped. The service center said that If you run you tank below 1/4 full you could burn out the pump. Anyone ever heard of that? GM said it is not under this recall. :sick: I think I am on my last GM car.
  • robertyroberty Posts: 1
    Yes... I noticed that on mine as well. Only happens on the passenger side. I need to get it looked at, I've turned it off...I don't really like the feature anyway.
  • pmdicpmdic Posts: 1
  • I figured out why the pinging got loader. Whoever did the tsb didn't install the new shield correctly. On the tsb it notes to make sure the new shield doesn't come in contact with any piece of the old shield and not to come in contact with the horizontal seam on the muffler. When I went to check it out it was doing both. So I loosened up the 3 straps and adjusted the shied. The sound didn't completely go away but is now to much quieter.

    FYI for anyone getting the tsb done.
  • I have a 94 K series Suburban that idles just fine. When you get on the road and press on the throttle however, it stalls and wants to cut out. I have replaced one injector that I thought might be bad, the PCV valve, the fuel filter all to no avail.

    Any suggestions?
  • jocaanjocaan Posts: 1
    I had good brakes when I bought this car. The shoes and pads are worn but not super critical. The brakes had a "mushy" feel when the brakes started to weaken. The brake fluid was dirty so I thought the first place to start would be to bleed the brakes. I put two new wheel cylinders on the rear wheels when the bleeding screws broke off. In trying to bleed the brakes after the wheel cylinders changed, I accidently drained the front chamber of the master cylinder-I was checking the level as I bled the brakes but somehow it happened. Now when I try to bleed the brakes there is very little fluid coming out (as before also) when the brake pedal is depressed (it goes down almost completely to the floor).
    The books I have do not mention how to bleed the master cylinder while on the car as I now assume I must start there. What are the steps to follow if I have to start at the master cylinder?
    Plus, one of the manuals says to hold the combination valve (its next to the master cylinder downward to the left I think) open during the bleeding process (which I had not done before when I bled the brakes). I see the combination valve and there are two knobs on either end with rubber caps on them. Should I pry these rubber caps off? How would I open these valves without this special tool that is mentioned? The book says an assistant can hold the "metering pin" in if I do not have the tool. I guess this holding the metering pin in keeps the valve open. Will I be able to see this "metering pin" if I pry these rubber caps off the combination valve? Can these rubber caps be pried off?
    This is a 94 Chevy Suburban that I just purchased so I do not know its history.
    TIA, Frank C.
  • sbreckensbrecken Posts: 1
    My 01 does the same thing. sbrecken
  • scozimscozim Posts: 10
    We just bought a 98 Suburban that's in awesome shape so we can fit the family in it (where I come from it's called a Whitman County Cadillac). We're getting rid of our truck and 5th wheel and with the owners manual on the truck it was real easy to figure out on the VIN tag what rear end gearing I had.

    The owners manual on the Suburban is not very much help. How do I know which gears I have in this thing?

  • dellgatedellgate Posts: 3
    I have 2001 Suburban (c1500 2wd, LT, no autoride) with 50k mi. I am thinking about getting new shocks on Suburban. Any thought on Bilstein shock? Did any one try Bilstein on C1500 2wd?

    If you know quality shop/mechanics who work on shocks in So. Calif, please let me know. Thanks in advance.
  • go8go8 Posts: 58
    Anyone have problems with the driver memory settings? It does not seem like the driver memory settings (i.e., seats, mirrors, pedals) are being recorded. I am pressing the memory button until it beeps twice, which I believe is correct. Any help would be appreciated.

  • bhappy666bhappy666 Posts: 2
    I just bought a 05 Suburban. I don't know what I was thinking when I didn't get the video system. I let my wife pick the truck. :confuse: Now I am searching for the right one. I am in the Va Beach area.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    I think there is a TSB about the memory setting retention problem that came out recently...don't remember the exact wording but I do recall reading about it. I reckon if you go to the NHTSA website you should be able to find a summary about it...
  • I have a 96 4WD w/ a 454 and about 140k on it. The only main issue I have had with it, which goes for most of the model years your looking at, is the front brakes and rotors. They wear quickly. Last set of mine were gone in under 5k, typically an annual change The rotors on these K2500 are not easy to replace either. There is a recommended Service Bulletin that address the issues it calls for special rear pads, new valve kit and a new proportioning valve. I have recently just tried this so I can't tell you if it works. Makes sense though, since my rear brakes have shown little wear over the life of the vehicle.
  • dsh1958dsh1958 Posts: 1
    We have a 2002 Suburban that has had the ABS light on for a number of months. Our local dealer has indicated that it is due to trama to the front passenger wheel and that we need to replace the hub assembly for ~ $500. We know there has been nothing of the sort. We were also surprised to find out that this would not be covered under the warranty. I am wondering if you ever heard anything from your inquiry.

  • anravelanravel Posts: 2
    I am NO expert by any means but "the guys" I work with & my husband have all said that running your tank F to E is not good for the pump. And I'm one to run it F to E--got scared & stopped doing it.

  • stormin68stormin68 Posts: 1
    Certainly I've heard of that and it is true of ALL fuel injected vehicles. The Electric fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank and relies on the fuel itself as coolant. If you allow the fuel to drop below the top of the pump it will overheat and if done consistently WILL eventually fail. My mechanic told me that when my Dodge Daytona left me stranded with a dead pump.
  • Hello there - I have the exact same problem in my 93 sub. I undo the taillights, replaced the switch and it still blows the brake and turn fuses. Did you figure out what the issue was?? This would help so much. Thank you, Don
  • I've got the above mentioned vehicle and in the past couple of weeks she's been acting up on me. In the mornings, or anytime the vehicle sets for a few hours it is VERY hard to get started.

    You turn the key and it cranks just fine but it will not start and run. After making several attempts to start it it will finally start but does so like it does not really want to. (like it's hitting on 3-4 cylinders running wise and then finally catches up to itself and runs fine) I've changed plugs, cap, & rotor and am not sure if it is actually a electrical problem at this point but maybe a loss of fuel prime to the cylinders.(almost like a vapor lock) This is your normal 5.7 350cu. in. Vortec engine. I also had thoughts about a bad ignition coil but after it does start it runs just fine and continues to do so until it is parked again for a while.

    I think I need some second opinions,... or maybe someone who might have delt with this problem and found the demon causing it could enlighten me as to the fix they used.

    ANY suggestions would be welcome!!
  • j2wicej2wice Posts: 2
    My suburban just would not turn over last week and after checking everything found out it was not getting any gas to turn it over with. I was told that i had a bad fuel pump and purchased a new one that did not look like the original i pulled off also i tested the old pump and it will run so we narrowed it down to the fuel pump relay which was bad this has been replaced and everything put back together truck started and ran no problem parked truck over night and now it wont start again any ideas????? any one know where i can find some help on this
  • heilmanmdheilmanmd Posts: 1
    have the engine coolant tempature sensor checked. This can be done if you have the manual and know how to measure voltage, etc... but otherwise best to have a mech put it up on the computer.
    the other issue is that with TBI it could be the TBI itself or the idle position sensor.
    In any case, a shop with diagnostic computer can do the checks.

    Mark Heilman
    94 Suburban Columbus MT 59019
  • tanner520tanner520 Posts: 4
    I have the control unit with the rear defroster included, just an FYI. I noticed if I use the AC and start out with the temperature knob on the coldest setting and then turn the temperature knob to "warmer" after the cab has cooled down, I cannot get the air temperature to blow any cooler after that by turning the knob back to a cooler setting. I can turn the temperature knob all the way to the coldest setting but the air doesn't get colder, the air just stays the same temperature. If I turn the temperature knob to any warmer setting, the air temperature will get warmer but it will never get any cooler after that and you're "stuck" with that setting, unless you turn the knob to an even hotter setting (which really sucks in summer in Texas). Even after you turn the Suburban off, it's still at that same temperature when you start it back up later, even after you wait a long time. I found that if you turn the temperature knob all the way to the hottest setting and back to the coldest, then turn the Suburban off for a few minutes, this seems to reset everything and then I can get cold air again.

    Does this sound like a bad control unit? I've heard that the early ones had "squirrelly" problems but I'm not sure that this is one of them. Thanks. Lewis
  • ttjcctttjcct Posts: 1
    We have a 95 k2500 with the same problem. My husband has replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump switch, he doesn't know it yet (til tonight) but our suburban still won't start everytime. He was told to check the oil sending unit, which he has not. Today I did get it to start but I had no power windows, no a/c, radio or clock but I could lock and unlock the doors. The strange thing is the ABS brake light stayed on during this 15 minute trip home. Our whole brake system, rotors, etc. were all just redone this spring. When I got home and started it again it was fine, power a/c and all. Then after trying it again, it would not always start up and the idiot engine light came on. (It's 115 degrees in AZ and the windows were only cracked, it was really hot inside!) If you get any helpful info. let us know... and we'll do the same. I going to bug him again to just bring it to the dealer. I hope someone has some helpful info.
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Well, sounds like you don't want to take it to a repair shop. I don't blame after what kind of service I have gotten from my Chevy dealer shop...

    If you have a fuel pump / flow problem an easy thing to do is to measure fuel line pressure by the engine. For this you need to buy a fuel pressure gauge (one that has the purge valve with drain hose attached) and measure the fuel pressure as you crank the engine. If pressure does not come up then you are not getting fuel from the pump. You said you replaced the pump already so I wouldn't think this is the issue.

    The second thing the engine needs to run is a spark. It is not possible to see the spark when you crank the engine other than you need to get an extra spark plug (or spark tester) and hook it up with a spark plug wire. If you have spark in one of the cylinders you then probably have it in all of them. Of course you could have a 'cold' cylinder but as I understand it doesn't even try to start you might not have spark at all. If spark is missing check the coil and distributor (I assume '93 model still has these).

    If you have spark then you need to check that your injectors work. With fuel pressure and spark present the thing left to check is that the fuel can enter inside the cylinder for the spark to ignite. I don't know how to check for injector voltage. For that you might need to take it to a dealer. And if the injectors don't 'fire' you could need a new computer in your vehicle.

    All of your trouble could also be cause by a simple grounding problem. Make sure your engine and chassis grounds are good.

  • jsoaresjsoares Posts: 1
    Bought my Suburban 05 off the lot with powered camper mirrors. I went back to see if I can get the power folding/curb side assist installed. I was told by the dealer that it needs to come from the factory like that and that it cannot be done by service. I would figure it would be two bolts and a direct connect. Are the electronics really that different or the dealership that lazy?
  • boydog40boydog40 Posts: 1
    my wifes 99 surb - we recently started getting a strong fuel odor in the cab while travelling down the road with windows up or down doesnt matter - have found no leaks anywhere when parked and idling - any ideas? driving us crazy and scaring us also.
  • I just bought a 95 suburban 2500 4x4 with a 350cc engine. We took it on a 1700 mile trip with no problems. (currently at 120k) It's ran steady at 210 degrees (12 oclock on the gauge) and recently have been overheating. I drove home the other day and the temp shot up to 250 degrees in a matter of 5-10 seconds. The coolant is checked regularly and was bone dry in the reserve. I added more after the engine cooled and only made it another 5 miles with the temp shooting up again from 210 to 250 very quickly. I plan on changing the thermostat today but am wondering how many others have experienced this problem? The truck overheated in 01 causing an engine rebuild, new h20 pump, and radiator replacement so all of these parts have less than 20k on them. Any comments or advice will be greatly appreciated!

    Jeff Janes
  • It sounds to me like maybe a cracked head or headgasket problem. If there isn't any external signs of leakage of antifreeze then it is probably being injested through your engines cylinder(s). Have a shop perform a test for this,... they have a gauge that tests for exhaust fumes in coolant at the radiator. You could also disconnect your coil wire (so the engine won't start and run) and crank the engine over a few times then pull all your spark plugs to which ones are "WET"

    Those individual wet spark plugs would indicate which cylinders are drawing in coolant and causing you all of the headaches.
  • Help? Sometime, after driving about 30 minutes to an hour on my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LT, the engine shut off. I have to park on the side road and wait for a few minutes (10-15 minutes) to get the engine started again, it will go for a few miles then it will repeat or died again.

    Does anyone have this problem too? The truck (SUV) is close to 62000 mileages…
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