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Chevy Suburban



  • My chevy is having fuel problems it seemed at first like it wasn't getting any fuel to the carb so we changed the filter and it didn't help it would die and then not start again (The pump was put in about a year ago) We would spray some carb cleaner and then it would start for awhile finally it just gave out wouldn't even start if carb was cleaned out, so we took it to a shop and they put it on a system cleaner it ran better for two days and now it won't start again, it cost me about $200 already so does anyone know anything about the trouble these have with the fuel system or have any suggestions for me?
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,721
    My recall notice on my 2000 Suburban mentioned periodic stalling as a potential problem. Have you received a letter from GM regarding the pending recall on the fuel pump wiring harness? I believe it covers many units built in the '00 - '02 model years and the problem is with the fuel pump wiring harness overheating (IIRC).

    I've been hoping GM will get the fix out soon, my fuel pump is very loud and I'd like to wait for the fix to replace my fuel pump.

  • schsch Posts: 1
    I am looking at a 2005 LS, and information on this vehicle will be appreciate.

  • tanner520tanner520 Posts: 4
    FYI for everyone that might be interested. I went ahead and bought a new control unit and that fixed the problems. Air control works like it's supposed to now. The date on my old control unit was 2000 and the date on my new one is 2004.
  • sollsoll Posts: 1
    I just bought a boat (woo hoo) and when my current car lease is up in Spring 2006, I need to buy a tow vehicle. My wife and I own a Honda minivan, which has been great, but no minivan will tow enough weight. My boat and trailer weigh about 7500lbs. Our next boat (this one is 10 years old and we'll buy a longer - about 27-28' boat within a year or two).

    I'm fairly certain that the next boat and trailer will exceed 10,000 lbs. so I'm considering the 3/4 ton Suburban or Yukon XL. When equipped with the biggest engine they sell (I think it's an 8.1 liter), and whatever other equipment necessary, it can tow up to 12,000 lbs.

    Here are my questions:

    1. Has anyone driven a newer (2003 or newer) 1500 and compared it to a 2500? I'm sure that the 2500 is not as smooth, but can it be used as a dialy commuting vehicle?

    The problem I'm having is that my wife has always wanted a convertable, and we're going to get her one and sell the minivan. If I want to tow my boat to the ocean (I live in Georgia), I have to get a tow vehicle which by its nature isn't the best for a daily commuter (bad gas mileage, comfort, etc.).

    2. Is there any other SUV that will tow that much, be a comfortable family highway cruiser (for times that I don't take my boat) and be able to have all of the creature comforts (DVD player, etc), and gets the same or better mileage??

    I looked at the Armada/Infinity, which seems like a good alternative (despite all of the problems people say it has, I would at least look into it), but it only tows 9100lbs. I know that's a lot, but if I want a bigger boat, I need more than a 9100lb towing capacity.

    3. I thought about getting an older 2500 and a third car, but I have no room in my driveway and can't park in front of my house. Does anyone know whether any company out there rents tow vehicles for boats? I called around and everyone seems to say that you can rent a vehicle to tow your car using their (Uhaul, Ryder, etc.) equipment, but nobody that rents a truck or sub to tow a boat with your trailer.

    Based on my research, other than a heavy duty pick-up truck (we need more people room than any such truck would have) or Excursion or big van, there's nothing else to consider. An Excursion won't fit in my garage, and I really don't like the way it looks.

    Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • Help? Sometime, after driving about 30 minutes to an hour on my 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LT, the engine shut off/stall. I have to park on the side road and wait for a few minutes (10-15 minutes) to get the engine started again, it will go for a few miles then it will repeat or died again.

    Does anyone have this problem too? The truck (SUV) is close to 62000 mileages…
  • tanner520tanner520 Posts: 4
    This could either be a fuel filter that needs replacing or the fuel pump is starting to fail.
  • dieselonedieselone Posts: 5,721
    With the weight your wanting to tow, a 3/4 SUV is really the only choice. That leaves you with a 3/4 ton Suburban/Yukon XL or an Excursion.

    I have a 1/2 ton '00 Suburban that I use to tow our 4600lb boat. I wouldn't want to tow much more than this with the 5.3L. It just doesn't have enough torque for pulling up grades. I recently briefly towed a friends 7000lb cruiser with his 3/4 ton Silverado w/ 8.1 allison trans. Wow, what a difference. That combo pulls 7000lbs much better than my Suburban towing 4600lbs.

    An Armada will pull your current setup w/o a problem. I did test drive one, and that is by far the best powertrain setup currently available in a 1/2 ton SUV. Great transmission and Nissan's 5.6 v8 just cranks out torque. I was shocked by how fast that truck is. I got back in my Suburban and it felt very slow.

    The problem with the 3/4 ton SUV/truck is fuel economy, they're a lot heavier and with a 6.0 or 8.1 they get pretty dismal fuel economy. The only way around that is to go diesel which leaves you with a 3/4 truck or an Excursion.

    Everything is a compromise and their isn't a perfect vehicle that will do everything. I'd guess a 3/4 ton Suburban/Yukon XL is your best bet. It won't ride as nice, but you'll have more towing power, bigger brakes and a stronger transmission. I've already rebuilt the l460e in my 1/2 ton burb at 46k miles.

    I've not sampled a 3/4 ton Suburban, but I've read on other message boards, that everyone likes them for everyday driving and towing. The real issue is fuel economy, because with an 8.1 (which is what you need) it will drink gas.

    Congrats on the new boat and good luck regarding the tow vehicle.

    I don't know of any rental companies that will let you rent an SUV to tow.
  • tanner520tanner520 Posts: 4
    Well, I guess I spoke too soon. The control unit did not correct the problem. However, it did help me add another symptom to the problem but the problem still exists. What I've discovered is that the problem only rears its ugly head after the vehicle has warmed up. I don't have this problem when I first start the Suburban up.

    Any direction or contacts/information would be appreciated.

  • wclark3wclark3 Posts: 3
  • jawgadawgjawgadawg Posts: 1
    I am having some trouble that I can not figure out, I have replaced the starter because I was having trouble getting the burb started and it was making a "grinding" sound but the starter is doing the same thing. I checked the fly wheel and all of the teeth are good so I replaced the starter again (warranty) and I get the same thing. Sometimes it won't even engage without major grinding! I have replaced the cables, good battery, any suggestions?
  • goob2goob2 Posts: 1
    I'm having the exact same problem with a 2003 GMC Yukon XL. Fuel pump failed at 24k miiles and was replaced about a year ago under warranty. This problem started about 2 months ago (just as the weather warmed up). Had a real problem with this last week on vacation. Two GMC dealerships have not been able to recreate or diagnose the problem.
  • smnstnsmnstn Posts: 10
    My guess is that you didn't notice this noise until this year's exceptionally hot weather. My '04 does that, too -- so did my '80, '93 and '99. This is simply the automatic transmission changing pitch of the blades to pass hot fluid through more quickly. You probably don't hear this until the engine is heated up. To be sure there's no problem, check your fluid level and smells bad or looks very dirty. But, every 1500 Suburban I've encountered with an automatic transmission and a .373 rear end will do this in hot weather.
  • smnstnsmnstn Posts: 10
    I have owned '80, '93, '99 &'04 gas 1500 Suburbans. The '03 was 2wd and very stable. At one point I had a truck wheel & axle shop do a check for me and they changed the toe-in. With a little tightening of the steering itself, it rode like it was on RR tracks.

    The '99 4wd felt very soft in the rear end and performed as you stated above. Living in the Poconos Mountains at the time, I felt this was unacceptable behavior. My neighbor taught auto mechanics at the area community college and he took it in to their shop and adjusted the torsion bars slightly unevenly to compensate for the usual crown of two-lane roads. This helped -- so did new Good Year tires with a highway tread. There was still slewing on slippery surfaces and unpredictable behavior in slipstreams from large trucks. I added one full leaf to each rear spring bundle at a truck suspension shop and all problems were solved. Plus, when I towed anything, it behaved much better and got better gas mileage.

    My '04 is now exhibiting some instability when my heavy trailer isn't attached. I had installed airbags integral to the newer coil suspension and that made a huge difference, even when not towing. I am convinced that the torsion bars must be adjusted to copmpensate for road crown and that Firestone/Bridgestone tires perform OK for the first 30,000 miles. At 46,000 mine are cupping and requiring inflation to the sidewall limit. You can bet I'll put something else on there this winter. But that reminds me -- NEVER OPERATE YOUR SUBURBAN AT THE TIRE PRESSURE RECOMMENDED ON THE DOOR JAMB!! This will give a nice ride, but terrible handling! If you carry more than 300 lbs (two small adults) in the wagon, you must inflate your tires closer to maximum branded on the sidewall! If you carry maximum load, you must inflate to maximum pressure for better handling, durability, gas mileage and safety. If you tow, try 2lbs less air in the front tires than the rear. I carry a small 12VDC air compressor under the small 2nd row fold-down seat. I also had a compressor with a dash mounted gauge and switch installed to regulate rear suspension pressure from inside the vehicle. And don't forget -- temperature dramatically affects tire pressure! Read this section in your manual. My wife has a nasty habit of taking both hands off the wheel to do something while she's driving (if she feels the unit is stable) and it tracks straight for up to half a mile with no correction, even towing. Check those tires and try air bags or firmer rear shocks. Both are cheap add-ons for benefit gained. S.
  • smnstnsmnstn Posts: 10
    The "Driver's Information Center" display in my '04 Suburban is woefully dim in normal daylight. In sunlight it disappears. I need this stuff to find locations by mileage and to see if I can make it to the next town to get gas, food or lodging. Does anyone else have this problem, and if so, what have you done about it?
  • smnstnsmnstn Posts: 10
    Check your tire pressure! Never go with the door spec. that's about 35 psi, and you probably want to run at 40. The sidewalls of the tires say 44psi, I believe. So 40 gives the tires a fighting chance and allows you a broad temperature range before you have to mess with tire pressure again. S.
  • smnstnsmnstn Posts: 10
    I experienced this in my '99 with cargo doors. A bad rear-end collision fixed it ... But, before that happened, I checked everything with a tape measure and foiund the bumper liner was off. The vehicle frame and mounting points were fine, but the chrome bumber liner was not bolted evenly and the black plastic guards were not clipped into prober alignment. This gave an overall effect of the doors being lopsided. I don't know why the same wouldn't be true of a lift gate. My '04 Suburban came from Janesville, WI and not Mexico. Far fewer squeaks and misalignments, in my opinion. S.
  • smnstnsmnstn Posts: 10
    This is a real late response in a hot summer like this one, but that's a dealer or Delco fix. There is a limit switch that can interfere, and in some cases low refrigerant will cause some malfunction. Mine went out on the Washington DC Beltway on a June day with the temp in the rearview showing 101 on the road. Low coolant in my case. Try cold "defrost" in an emergency. S.
  • smnstnsmnstn Posts: 10
    My '04 does the same thing, especially when towing. I alleviated the situation somewhat with a K&N free-flow air cleaner filter to reduce intake manifold pressure and went to premium gas. My bob-tail mileage jumped to 20+ mpg on 55mph roads, and over 17 on Interstates. My towing mileage with a 6,000 lb utility trailer went to 13.8 from 10.2. The airbags I added to the suspension helps too by keeping everything lined up height-wise. The radical "spool-up" does not happen if the cruise is disengaged, or if you can find the override threshold with the accelerator pedal. I try to anticipate the oncoming hill and decide whether to cut the cruise off or see if we can sneak in under the sensor. However, the actual answer is one you won't like to hear. If you drive slower, it doesn't do it. And, if you're towing, there's less overall shifting with the trailering mode engaged. But, if you hear of anything else PLEASE let me know. Thanks. S.
  • Every morning when I first start the Suburban, there is a belt sqealing noise that lasts for a few minutes. It won't come back again until the next morning. I recently had the belt tensioner and belt replaced but the noise came back a few days later. It's driving me nuts since it never happens by the time I get it to the shop. Any suggestions?
  • Okay, I am really stumped to what might be the problem here.....

    My 95, 2500, 350cc, 4x4 suburban has a problem with overheating. It seems to rise all the way to the danger zone 260 degrees after I drive it for a few miles then drops below 200. It swings back and forth on the guage for a minute or two and then settles down at around 208 degrees and is fine after than. The radiator, h2o pump, themostat, and hoses are less than one year old. We just put in a 195 thermostat last weekend when the problem started. The oil looks good and I'm stumped as to why it's taking so long for the thermostat to open up? Could the guage just be wrong? It's a 195 thermostat but the guage reads a consistant 210. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • I have a 2002 Chevrolet Suburban Z71 that shuts off while going up hill and increasing engine power. It almost seems that is doesn't have the power to climb it. The SES light came on, and it shows the knocking sensor is tripping the light. I am sure that could be caused by a number of things. The vehicle is bi-fuel, and I am running 87 octane in the tank. I don't know why it is doing this, and would like some suggestions if anyone has any.

    As info, my truck has 87000 miles on it, and i did replace the fuel filter.
  • I had the same problem. I removed the compressor and the compressor had NO oil it in. I bought a used compressor, added the right amount of PAG 46 oil, installed it, had it recharged and the problem is completely gone. My compressor appreared to have a little black grease on the bottom rear indicating a possible leak in the casing, losing oil.

    I know have 43 degree air blowing cold!

    Don't wait to have it fixed or do not run the AC until fixed. If the compressor fails there is a about $1000 worth of work to do to purge the AC system of any metal particles caused by a compressor failure.
  • recently, whenever the fuel gauge gets to half, it immediately drops to empty and the message center lights up.. the only way to make it register is to completely fill it back up again. what the heck?
  • bbsgbbsg Posts: 1
    Hi i'am haveing the same thing happen on my 01 suburban.It will stall at any speed and the first thimg i notice is the batt light comes on.I pull over and it cranks but will not start.After a few min it starts right up runs great.I have had it put on a scanner no faults stored.fuel press is also good 55 psi.very intermittent can go many miles before it acts up again.Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • I am taking my 02 Z71 in tomorrow to have it looked at for shutting down at any speed. I have talked with several mechanics who tell me it could be anything from the fuel pump to a knock sensor. Once I hear from them tomorrow I will post the results so you can atleast see what is causing mine.
  • shawndshawnd Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if the 1986 Suburban, or any suburban for that matter came with dual tanks?
    I need a 2nd tank for mine. I have the 43gallon tank in the back. Need a side mount tank, looks like there is plenty of room. I've been looking at junk yards, I see no Suburbans with side-mount tanks.
    Is there a good aftermarket side mount tank that anyone knows of?

    Any help would be appreciated.

  • wclark3wclark3 Posts: 3
  • z50kiddz50kidd Posts: 1
    I was rinsing dead bugs from the front of my 1999
    the other day ,I noticed the head light on drivers side started flickering.I dont know if it was doing this before or not.Now both head lights will go out and come back on.Has anybody else had this problem.Any ideas on the problem.
    I had one person tell me the light switch was bad,and one person told me the light switch would not affect it like this.The day time running lights go off and on as well.I am baffled.Please help..........Jeff Jones
  • Hello. Truck was running fine until this am ( 97, 5.7 Vortech). Tried to start and got nothing. Not a peep. Checked the fuses on the fuse block and found that the 40 amp ign A fuse was blown. Tried a new one and it keeps blowing them. Any ideas?

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