Diesel Questions and Problems in General (non specific makes)

guy2guy2 Member Posts: 1
edited October 2014 in Land Rover
I have one of these fitted in a Range Rover - all the diesel pipes aew well fitted and have the appropriate straps holding them in place, however, the injector pipes keep snapping just short of the injector pump. There are no heavy vibrations and everything appears tight. no 3 has just gone again after only about 500 miles of very light motoring - anmy help or suggestions gratefully received. Thnks


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm going to change this topic to Diesel Problems so as to attract owners of other makes.


    I'll e-mail you about this.


    thank you


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Inasmuch as this is a conversion, my first suspicion is that your motor mounts are either too weak or incorrectly aligned, allowing too much rotational torque for the engine, or perhaps even too much lateral (front to back) shift.


    Severe vibration could break the lines but you state this isn't the problem.


    Also, if the lines were "forced" to fit the injector pump, that is, bent to be able to screw into the pump, this constant force could break them in time. I have seen this happen with say exhaust systems that are "jacked into place" to meet their flanges, and I've seen it in brake lines that are bent with force to meet their mating nipples.


    You might ask an observer STANDING TO ONE SIDE OF THE VEHICLE, NOT IN FRONT, with the hood open, to watch the engine movement as you step hard on the brake, put the vehicle in gear and apply gas in their first or "drive" and then "reverse".


    If there is noticeable engine rotation, that's your problem IMO.
  • icrmanicrman Member Posts: 23
    The lines will fatique from the vibration loads imparted to them. There are small tie clamps that clamp two or more lines together to form a more ridged system. If you have the factory clamps on the lines in the correct areas, and they still break. You may have to add a solid brace from the line to the engine.
  • patentguypatentguy Member Posts: 45
    Can you use marine diesel in automobiles?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    don't see why not, as long as its #2.
  • hoaderhoader Member Posts: 1
    My neighbor has a Perkins 351.4 diesel non-turbo engine that has just been overhauled. It starts as if it were below freezing when it is in the 70s in F. New rings, pistons, sleeves, rod and main bearings, rebuilt head and injectors. The pump was not touched. After starting, I felt the exhaust manifold and #6 cylinder runs the hottest the earliest where as #5 is the slowest. It took over 2 minutes before it ran on all 6 cylinders. I can't do a compression test till I get an adapter for that engine. I need some ideas and tricks to trouble-shoot this one. :confuse:
    Thanks hoader
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if it's JUST rebuilt with zero time on it I'd run it at fast idle for a good hour or more and then change the oil, first off. Let everything seat in. Sounds like an injector or....does this engine use glow plugs to start? If so, are they all new and are the connections good and tight?
  • hendrix24hendrix24 Member Posts: 7
    hey everyone i am looking to buy a new dodge or chevy diesel ande cannot make up my mind. I was al;ways a chevy man but the past few years i have fallen for the dodges, i am wondering everyone says dodge has a tranny problem but the cummins rocks so everyone please get back and tell me your opinion on this question thanks, and have a good memorial day.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You should cruise our Pickups board for this question:


    There, you can talk to owners of these various trucks.

    In general, I can offer my opinion that a diesel truck is great if you are towing something heavy, otherwise it doesn't make a lot of sense with diesel fuel prices being generally higher than even premium unleaded. As for diesel engines being "more long-lived" or "easier to maintain", that is really subject to a lot of interpretation.
  • newatthisnewatthis Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone, this is all new to me but here I am.

    My husband bought a 1995 Ford f 250 powerstroke diesel 4x4 a few months gack with about 68,000 miles. Currently 85,000 miles.

    Long story short. On his way to Alaska, right now loaded with truck full of building materials and a four horse trailer full of building materials. Just left Redding CA about an hour ago. Called to say the oil pressure is going down. anybody out there know anything about this? is there a specific chat room or place i could get in touch with? Need help fast.


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well how's the engine temperature? If the engine is overheating, then the oil tries to take up the slack of the over-heated coolant.

    If the engine isn't overheating, you may need to run a better oil, like a synthetic. Perhaps your oil is too thin for this job.

    But you know, it sounds like the truck may just be overloaded. Lumber is really heavy and so are horse trailers....you may be exceeding the truck's limits.

    I'd say if he can't square away the oil pressure problem he'd better quit while he's ahead...turn around and come home or detach the trailer and lock it up someplace safe and come home empty.
  • oldharryoldharry Member Posts: 413
    I am not familiar with Daihatsu, but used to work on construction equipment back in the sixties.

    One problem with pump and nozzle injection systems is that the lines carry very high pressure. As we learned in high school physics, a curved tube tends to straighten when internal pressure rises. Preformed fuel lines typically have no sharp curves and have looped areas to deal with changes in length when the line pressurizes without over stressing other spots. As the pump is mounted on the engine, motor mounts should not be a problem. The most likely cause in some of the lines (number 3?) may have been reshaped to fit under the hood.

  • bryang1bryang1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem to yours - pipes snapping on a 2.8Tdi Fourtrak engine fitted in a Range Rover. No.1 went this afternoon! Have you been able to find any solution, I wonder - if so, can you share it?
  • jimstrenkjimstrenk Member Posts: 56
    Not know much about diesel powered automobiles, why would someone want to purchase a diesel automobile? What are the benefits? Don't diesels send out more pollutants?

    Just wonderin'! :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Diesel technology is up and coming and a lot of the old attitudes about diesels will change. Diesels are more efficient than gasoline engines, too. The down side of diesels right now is that it's hard to get low sulphur fuel in America and also, unlike Europe, diesel fuel is as expensive or MORE expensive that gasoline. In Europe (most places) it is considerably less expensive, and this $$ savings spurs further diesel engine development through success in the marketplace.
  • jimstrenkjimstrenk Member Posts: 56
    Thanks for your reply, Mr. Shiftright. I always thought that diesel engines were much noisier and dirtier.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    They are pretty quiet these days, especially the foreign cars. American diesels still make a racket. As for being "dirty" it depends on which pollutant you're talking about. Yes, in soot (particulate) they are dirtier but not in all emissions.
  • dieseldumbdieseldumb Member Posts: 3
    My dodge has 88000 miles .I was driving and it quit.It's full of fuel and is getting past the filter. Has it got an electric solenoid? shutoff fuse? Is Cummins having problems with the injector pump? I drove a 1990 cummins 13 years with no problems at all. help!
  • harrystewartharrystewart Member Posts: 4
    are there any aftermarket products that can be used in engine compartment/hood liner/ to reduce noise. I have heard that sheets of cork can be used but not sure how. I know there is spray on products for underneath etc. but I am looking for something to replace hood liner or add to it. chevy 04
  • sick95troopsick95troop Member Posts: 7
    I've just purchased an '82 Silverado with the 6.2L diesel that the previous owner says he hasn't been able to start since it was run out of fuel by his buddy. I've heard that it may just need to have fuel lines/filter/pump primed. Does anyone have any advice or instructions about this situation. Thanks! Matt
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes, you generally do have to bleed the fuel lines to get a diesel to restart after running out of fuel. All diesels are different in procedure so I hesitate to be too specific but if you got ahold of the workshop manual it would explain it. Basically it's a matter of cranking over the engine with an injector line cracked open at the cylinder head, until fuel bleeds out. Then you tighten it and go on to the next one. ONce all the air is out, it should start...if indeed this is the problem. You are taking this truck sort of on the blind....you have guts! I hope it was cheap.

    PS: Some injection pumps have built in primers to help with this bleeding process but I don't know if yours does. You might check to see if there's a little plunger on the pump.
  • sick95troopsick95troop Member Posts: 7
    With the help of some air pressure at the tank and a fresh set of batteries, we were able to get the fuel lines primed again and the truck started right up. It was a little funny...I paid the guy his $500 asking price, and had him sign the title over....then we worked on it in his driveway for about an hour until we got it started. Once it was running, he asked me, "well, are you gonna sell it back to me for $1000 now!?" It seemed to run pretty well, although the temperature has dropped here in KS the last two days and it didn't want to start today.

    This system doesn't have a priming pump that I can find....that would be a worthwhile addition in my opinion.

    Thanks for your help
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you're welcome and good luck with it. Maybe you need a block heater!
  • 62gmcguy62gmcguy Member Posts: 1
    hi i'm new i was wondering what diesel motors where used in the 70's chevys so i can convert my pickup from a k20 to a k30
  • oldharryoldharry Member Posts: 413
    When it is cold and I have GM diesels to work on ( I do wheel alignments and related work). If they do not start quickly on the first try, for the second try I turn the key, wait for the glow plugs,(wait to start light), turn the key off, and back on for a second run of the glow plugs, then crank. Works quite often.

  • dinokippydinokippy Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 cummins turbo engine will not start warm very well in takes several trys on the starter to get it to run. the engine will turn over but take a while to start. the fuel pressure is fine and the filters have all been changes.
  • benpenibenpeni Member Posts: 1
    Hi this is my 1st post, I have a 92 2.4 diesel surf. Just re installed starter after point replacement, and engine wouldn't start. Checked fuel line for leak or block age, no visible sign or drips, i'm not sure wether taking the starter out from the top was the correct way as i ended up having to disconnect air hoses electrical plugs air filter, unbolt and move aside power steer unit, fuel filter, which were in the way. Starter works perfect now but engine no longer. HELP!!!
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    check to see if the glow plug system is still connected. if it's cold enough to need 'em to start, and they aren't triggering on, you will crank any number of starters, batteries, and ignition switches to death without getting the tarburner heated up.
  • buck14buck14 Member Posts: 1
    my wvo 1986 bmv 524td diesel injection pump can not be rebuilt any body out there have one for sale or know where one is id appre the help :):D :P
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Why can't it be rebuilt?
  • heathdieselheathdiesel Member Posts: 2
    Manual operation of the torque converter lock-up clutch in 1992-1995 trucks with the 4L80E

    In our opinion, the factory transmission programming is quite well sorted out and works very well in the majority of applications. This factory programming affords torque converter lock-up clutch function only in 3rd and 4th gears. When towing uphill, with vehicle speeds that are below the converter unlock point, a significant amount of torque converter-induced transmission heat will build. Being able to hold the converter clutch in lock-up mode will prevent this unwanted heat build-up.

    An annoying characteristic of the program is that it 'unlocks' the lock up clutch as soon as the throttle is released. The engine returns to a near idle speed and the truck just coasts down, without the benefit of being slowed by the engine.

    A simple two-position toggle switch (Part #HDP1053) can be installed on the dash panel to provide a full, manual control of the lock up clutch. This will allow the manual locking of the torque converter in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears and this is beneficial when towing.

    Under towing conditions when vehicle speed must be low due to traffic and or road conditions, the converter can now be held in the lock-up mode while the trans is held in 2nd or 3rd gear.

    To accomplish this modification, you will need a two-position, three pole toggle switch. The one we use us a Cole-Hersee #5584.

    You must locate the 'BROWN' wire coming out of the electrical connector at the transmission. This wire runs to the ECM and controls the lock-up function in the transmission.

    You will interrupt this brown wire at some point conveniently away from the electrical connection on the transmission. Splice a wire to both the transmission-end of this brown wire as well as the ECM-end of it. These two spliced-on wires will run to the new dash mounted switch. We usually mount the toggle switch in one of the ‘block-off’ plates on the dash, however it can be mounted virtually anywhere you like.

    The switch has three connector poles. Fasten the ECM-side wire to one END pole and the transmission-end wire to the other END pole of the switch. Route a wire from the CENTER pole on the switch to a suitable ground source.

    In one position, the switch connects the ECM to the transmission to achieve factory control of the converter lock-up clutch. In the other position, the switch grounds the wire running to the transmission to force a lock-up of the clutch.

    That's it—you are done with this installation.

    You will find that the engine does not enjoy being held down below about 1500 rpm and that this manual type control will require a bit of getting used to. If, for instance, you forget to switch the manual control off before you stop the truck, you will find that upon leaving a stop, the shift to 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears will be rather abrupt, as the torque converter will be locked up.

    We hope that you find this info helpful, however you must feel free to contact us with any questions you may have regarding your 6.5. We are dedicated to support of the 6.5 and are always happy to help.
  • mjhusmjhus Member Posts: 1
    I saw your reply regarding the glow plug system and thought that maybe you might have some insight to my dilemma. I have a 1986 BMW 524td. I am trying to locate the glow plug so I can change the fusable link on it. Several months ago someone I knew was able to change one of the fusable link on the glow plug when my car had the same symptoms but I am not in touch with him currently and was not present when he had done the work. Thanks for any help you may have to offer.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you should have 6 glow plugs and a heavy metal fuse that is in it's own black box somewhere. The glow plugs need to be changed every couple of years.
  • tuqualatuquala Member Posts: 1
    Healthdiesel, is this modification applicable to a '99 4L80E?? I am looking for this exact simple mod for my Suburban 7.4L tow vehicle.

    Thanks for your help!!
  • whisky6whisky6 Member Posts: 7
    Hi,this inquiry is about a pin in the front of 5.9 diesel engine that is suppose to fall out and into timing gears,and destroy the engine the year of this problem is unknown,but i was told caught early it is not expensive to fix if not blank check time,also while i am here what about using cetane booster in a 2006 chevy duramax diesel,thank,s
  • whisky6whisky6 Member Posts: 7
    Hi, will there be harm done to a 2006 chevy diesel by using cetane improver,thank,s
  • roachyroachy Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, need advice on a Cummins VTA903M motor for my boat, white smoke appears and around 1700 revs becomes alittle unstable, your valuable advice would be welcome.
    Thankyou very much :)
  • akenatenakenaten Member Posts: 122
    How often should a Duramax have an oil/filter change?The truck is a 2006 Sierra 2500HD with the LBZ motor.My owners manual says to change it when the computor tells me to or at least once a year. Is that really enough?
  • ddf1ddf1 Member Posts: 18
    Yeah that's what the book says. Personally I think that is a long time. I change mine (04 LB7) every 5000 miles, and I use Shell's Rotella 5W-40 synthetic. And is your truck brand new. I have heard after a couple hundred miles you want to change your oil to clean it up. A brand new motor might end up with some assembly contamination.
  • akenatenakenaten Member Posts: 122
    Yes it's new. I'm supposed to use 15w-40 but haven't found it in synthetic.
  • ddf1ddf1 Member Posts: 18
    The only synthetic I have found was the 5W-40. There may be a 15W-40 but not at the stores I have been too. Plus there is not much of selection of stores in a town of 10,000. But my truck ran fine this last winter on 5W-40, started up every time with no more dragging than expected from the cold weather.
  • juiced1964juiced1964 Member Posts: 1
    .I have a problem with a 3lt 5L non turbo and just wondered if you could help or have herd of this problem?
    The trouble is that it will start first time and run perfect but soon as you turn off and try to restart it will not fire, does not mater how long you run it for even if you switch off as soon as it fires it will not start.when left for about 1 hour it will restart.Have replaced fuel pump solenoid.I have rebuilt this motor.timing is right,compression is ok but when does not start motor turns over as if no compression.will not start on arostart in this condition.Hope to hear from you and thank you for your time.
  • whisky6whisky6 Member Posts: 7
    Hi,i was checking ulsd and a question came up from my son about ulsd as he has a 2006 duramax,he does not think he can use it in his truck, and i went to google it there appears to be a question about retrofiting engines of previouis years,any thoughts on this would be nice,thank,s
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    huh...what about a sticking intake valve (one or more).
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    He should be fine with ULSD in his 2006. Since the fuel already exists, it has to be able to run on it.

    On the other hand, 2007 and future vehicles can NOT run on the older diesel fuel, as this will foul their emissions systems.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • bhill2bhill2 Member Posts: 2,430
    Hmmm, sounds like a rerun of the switch to unleaded gasoline. Your statement 'Since the fuel already exists, it has to be able to run on it' leads me to ask if older diesels perhaps cannot use it. Is that the case?

    2009 BMW 335i, 2003 Corvette cnv. (RIP 2001 Jaguar XK8 cnv and 1985 MB 380SE [the best of the lot])

  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Older diesels will run on it, but the older the engine, the more one should consider lubricity additives to replace what the sulfur-reduction process removes.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • jimlockeyjimlockey Member Posts: 265
    When the new ULSD finally hits the pumps there will be plenty of lubricants in the fuel. The oil companies have already seen to this. People keep adding all the extra what ever to their fuel. This is a total waste of $$$$. I've owned four diesel and have never added anything and have never had any trouble with my vehicles or fuel. I buy from high volume stations.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Don't get me wrong... the only thing I ever add is anti-gel in the winter. And I fill at the same station that I've used for 10 years now - way more semis there than cars. But unless people get over the stigma of going to a "truck stop" for diesel, the odds of the local suburban station having quality fuel that hasn't sat underground for months aren't as good, and additives should be considered if the fuel is the least bit suspicious.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • jimlockeyjimlockey Member Posts: 265
    There are some real nice truck stops. Most of the new stations have a diesel pump for cars in front. If you go in the back, go to the first bay next to the building. This has a small nozzle. The only problem is the high speed pump. Don't try to top it off or vent. You do this and you very likely will get diesel all over you and your car. When I pull my 5th wheel I go with the trucks often. Some have a special place for RV's, but with my Passat tdi I go in front.

    The thing I like about the truck stops the most is they have fresh diesel and the price is often less than a regular station. Heck, some of the regular stations that keep their diesel at the highest price still have winter diesel and not very fresh. This is the situation that gives people a bad tank of diesel.
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