Diesel Questions and Problems in General (non specific makes)
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Thanks.
If congress will stop accepting all the oil money and get some real deisel research going we might have some good diesel vehicles in the US. Diesels can be built to burn as clean as a gas engine.
I would love to see Dodge & Chysler add a diesel to their mini vans. Maybe go back to the smaller versions and get away from the grands with all the fancy power doors and fancy fold down seats. Get real safety and real fuel economy.
We want to see an average of 30 mpg.
Jimmy
For those of us who use diesel power, I see us being ahead of everyone else. The American public, for the most part, views diesels with the 1980's in mind, namely smokey, noisy and gutless. A few days ago, I ran into someone at a filling station while refueling my Jeep Liberty CRD. He was driving a small Lexus SUV, RX330. I asked him about the FE he was getting with his Lexus and then told him my Liberty was diesel powered. The guy stated that diesels were so noisy and smelly. I replied that my Jeep was running (I was waiting in line). I thought that the guy's head was going to fall off as he was so shocked.
http://www.thedieselpage.com/t&rguide.htm
73s
Adrian
thanks
Joe
If no one has ever done something, there could be a reason for this but if he wants a hobby, then why not? I suspect there is no LUV engine-to-Kia transmission adapters out there, so that will have to be made...or I guess he could install an entire LUV 4X4 drivetrain into a Sportage. Given the weight of a Sportage, and the horsepower of that Isuzu-built diesel (58 horsepower), this vehicle is not going anywhere fast.
Or he could have another beer and re-think this whole thing
Kettle Chips and biodiesel
http://www.kettlefoods.com/index.php?cID=227
There are two ways around this... use the slow-fill setting on the pump from the beginning, or there are aftermarket kits to relocate the vent. Because of what the kit does, it will void any warranty on the tank, but installed correctly, it not only fills the tank faster, but even allows you to use the built-in "slosh area" of the tank.
kcram - Pickups Host
My 1990 7.3 international diesel is very hard to get started. Once it starts it runs great.
When I first turn the key (after glow plug light goes out) it will fire then stall. I try pumping the heck out of the pedal but it does not seem to help. From there I have to crank and crank and crank. Finally it will start. If it sits for 6-8 hours it will have same problem.
I was told to check glow plugs. Removed all plugs and with jumper wire I connected to battery and grounded the housings. All plugs glowed instantly.
I think I am lousing prime. There are no signs of fuel leakage.
I did replace fuel filter a while back (it was leaking)
If I knew a good honest mechanic I would take it to get looked at but am afraid I will get ripped off.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
thanks
Jim
CANT FIND OUT WHAT IS CAUSING IT.
EVEN DEALER DOESNT KNOW. PLEASE HELP
Unfortunately, they cannot tell me how they came to that conclusion. The truck is running so I am going to replace the lift pump first and install a set of pressure gauges to monitor the fuel pressure. If the problem persist then I know to replace the injector pump. Email me at [email protected] and I will let you know how I made out.
Ouch, that smarted.
Ok, how did you test the glowplugs again?
Are both batteries in good condition? Yes, they will have an affect on the glowplugs.
Next thing, check that the return hoses aren't falling apart and collapsing.
They are the rubber hoses that go across to each injector.
Any leaks at the injectors?
When it finally starts, how bad does it smoke?
How many miles are on this engine?
Ok, now that I asked a bunch of questions, a WAG would be that you have an injector or 2 that are leaking down.
When that happens, it has a flooding affect and can cause similar symptoms.
But, without knowing what they did and what they checked, it is hard to tell.
Which would cause pressure on the return line and blow the hose off.
I would suspect one of the rubber return hoses has collapsed.
I seriously doubt you have an injector problem.
Fuel runs through the injectors all the time. The injectors don't regulate preussure, so you are on the wrong path.
I can't answer your question, but my truck does have a harder time staring in colder weather (I'm positive it is time for glow plugs as they have 90k+ on them, but lonts of long distance driving). It is currently in the shop because the the fuel filter/water separator developed some really bad leaks at the point where the wires enter at the top to heat the fuel, and the drain tube off the bottom busted off. Simultaneously, the braided fuel line developed a pin hole and sprayed fuel all over.
It took them a week to find the correct parts (fuel filter and wires, etc).
I just got off the phone with my mechanic (who hasn't done me wrong yet) and he mentioned that the rubber hoses to each glow plug (or did he say injector) are OEM, look bad and need to be replaced. Which sounds like the same thing the mechanic above mentions.
GL
Both tanks about 1/4 tank full of some kind of junk that clogs the fuel lines and starts to cut off the motor if I let the fuel tanks get too low.
1) I see ads for additives for anti-gel and anti-fungus. I've tried the anti-gel but it doesn't seem to work. Should I try anti-fungus additive?
2) Is there some way to suck out this gel with a vacuum hose or pump?
3) I plan on keeping the truck at least another 100k miles baring any complications. Should I not worry about this as long as it doesn't get higher than 1/4 tank?
4) I am pulling a 12k pound Fifth Wheeler. Is there any possibility of some amounts of gunk getting sucked up thru the fuel lines and causing other problems? (i.e. I just had to replace the fuel filter/heater/water seperator & wiring to that), and rubber fuel line just popped a leak same time. Is it possible that some "gunk" is causing some kind of back pressure?
5) Should I pull the tank and get it cleaned out?
The truck is still at the mechanic. I don't mind spending the money. Have had this old truck since day one.
Diesels by nature have a hard time starting in cold weather. They need optimum glow heat and optimum additive protection in cold weather.
So new glow plugs, fuel conditioner (anti-gel) and new hoses if they are leaking or cracked.
More than likely, there are 1 or 2 glow plugs that are shot. Pretty common.
I will say this. If you are strapped for cash, you can locate bad glow plugs with a test light or ohm meter. There is a way to do it.
But honestly, I would replace all 8. They are about $8 each, depending on where you get them.
The rubber hoses that go to the injectors are the return hoses and over time crack and leak. When you replace the rubber hoses, also replace the o-rings on the caps that the hoses attach to. Contact your Ford dealer and they have a kit with the hoses and o-rings for about $23.
As stated this truck is only used occasionally so as long as I could get it started and with limited time it took me a while to get into checking things out.
I found a very very small fuel leak. Replaced fuel hose and it starts instantly now.
Again thanks to all who posted.
Jim
Glow plugs next. Just the plugs or is there anything else that needs to be replaced at the same time? I saw something about electrical wires somewhere, but wasn't sure if the wires get replaced or if the wires just hook up to the glow plugs.
My dad is a mechanical engineer and would like to replace these for me, but he's not a diesel mechanic (but otherwise very much a mechanic and trouble shooter). Is this fairly easy for someone who hasn't done this before?
I do change the fuel filter every other oil change, unless I accidently get some of that stuff sucked up into the filter, then I change it as soon as possible. This is the fuel filter / water separator. You stated "filters". Is there more than one filter that I need to track down?
Ford quoted me $599 to drop and clean the fuel tanks. That seems a bit high. Is this a difficult job and can any mechanic pretyy much do this? The mechanic I've been using has been good so far.
Wound up replacing all the rubber return lines, parts in the fuel filter/water seperator (leaking bad). Once those were fixed, the next weak link went, the fuel pump.
Sometime before the end of the month will be tackling that big hill again and see if I lose power down to 45 mph. Long ago, I used to pull a heavy horse trailer (fully loaded about 10k), and didn't lose power, although it would downshift.
Will try to remember to post the results of going over the hill the next time... I'm going to guess if no power loss, fixing all the fuel leaks did the trick. From my guess, the fuel filter/water seperator & fuel pump were the culprits (as opposed to the rubber hoses - part of the return system) --- or maybe all of them together.
Will have to go there and ask him. Thanks for all the great stuff guys!!
A 10mm deep socket and extension (I prefer an extenstion with a wobbly tip) will be needed.
And a pair of needle nose vise grips for teh glow plugs that are a little stubborn coming out.
The 2 center ones on each side are a it of a bear, you may need to unbolt the clamp that hoses the injector lines together to get the socket and extension in there.
Some of the blow plugs may be swelled and a little hard to get them to come out.
Use the needle nose vice grips to gently work them out of the hole.
DO NOT force them to hard, as you can break the tip off and that wouldn't be good.
Put a small dab of never sieze on the threads before installing them.
kcram - Pickups Host