Engine Removal

blackchevy1990blackchevy1990 Member Posts: 3
edited March 2014 in Chevrolet
Im taking the engine out of my 1990 Chevy Silverado 350, 5.7 liter. I have no clue what the torque converter-to-drive- plate bolts are, or where they are. Can anyone help me?


  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The drive plate is the flexplate or flywheel bolted to the back of the crankshaft. The bolts you refer to attach the flexplate to the torque converter. With the starter and converter splash shield removed, rotate the engine with a breaker bar and socket on the front balancer centre bolt for access.

    Are you sure your experience level is up to this?
  • blackchevy1990blackchevy1990 Member Posts: 3
    So the bolts are on the flywheel or behind it? Im not that experienced but we have to get it out anyways. After an incident involving my step uncle, a screwdriver, and my number one spark plug hole he somehow messed up my engine pretty bad trying to find top dead center (dont ask).
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    3 threaded lugs welded to the front face of the converter just in from it's outer diameter, 3 holes in the flexplate. The bolts go through the flexplate into the converter. Remove the cover and rotate the engine, you'll see them.
  • blackchevy1990blackchevy1990 Member Posts: 3
    Okay ill try that, ill let ya know if it works. You sound like you know what your talkin about, i may need to ask ya more stuff as i get to it!
  • goodwrench4evegoodwrench4eve Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Silverado Z71 Ext 5.3 exhibits a rare condition. After starting and running for a minute or so, the fuel gauge drops to "E" and the low fuel indicator comes on. As soon as I put the trans into "D", the gauge reads correctly. If placed in "P", after a minute or so the gauge drops to "E" again. Can you point me in the right direction ? Sending unit, instrument cluster, wiring ?
  • jae5jae5 Member Posts: 1,206
    Also, before you start pulling the motor, take time and mark where the vacuum lines, wiring and other connections are. Take some pics of the engine bay while everything is still connected. Then as your pulling wires and lines, get some masking tape and a couple of black sharpies and start marking. Mark everything and make multiple copies of the pics (mark them as well) if you have to; it'll save you later on.

    When your pulling bolts, place them in plastic bags and mark the bags as well. I know these things sound basic but you'd be surprised how many people forget these steps, especially if it's their first engine pull. And I assume you have a Chilton's or other manual for the removal and that you've read it a few times.

    And don't forget to support that tranny; if you don't whoa boy!! A suggestion, don't let that step uncle of yours handle that or any other job. ;}

    Relatives, you just can't get rid of them.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hi goodwrench!

    Welcome to the Forums.

    Unfortunately you seem to be in the wrong topic here. This topic is strictly for Engine Removal Questions.

    Try using our "search forums" feature to the left of this page and type in the keyword "Technical Question" for one possible place to post, or "electrical gremlins" for another.

    You can also use "browse by vehicle" to find other owners who might have come up against this problem.

    thank you

  • blastermanblasterman Member Posts: 3
    My grandson has a '96 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST Turbo w/Auto Trans. He had a rod go thru the pan the other night and the Cyl wall is scored so will need new engine. I have worked on cars for approx 50 yrs but have not had any experience pulling engines on front wheel drives. My question is: Can I pull the engine without pulling the trans? I am waiting for the Factory Service Manual.
    I have checked Mitsubishi forums but they don't seem to know for sure. I've gotten 3 different answers.
    1. Have to pull trans with engine.
    2. Have to drop trans, then pull engine.
    3. With Auto trans, support trans, unbolt torgue converter and push into trans, then can pull engine.
    Does anybody know for sure what works?

    Sure would appreciate some help'
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Mitsubishi Eclipse 1990-1998 Repair Guide

    Relieve the fuel system pressure.
    If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
    If equipped, remove the engine under cover.
    Matchmark the hood and hinges and remove the hood assembly. Remove the air cleaner assembly and all adjoining air intake duct work.
    Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container, then remove the radiator assembly, coolant reservoir and intercooler.
    If equipped with AWD, remove the transaxle and transfer case.
    Tag and detach the following components: accelerator cable, heater hoses, brake vacuum hose, connection for vacuum hoses, high pressure fuel line, fuel return line, oxygen sensor connection, coolant temperature gauge connection, coolant temperature sensor connector, connection for thermo switch sensor, if equipped with automatic transaxle, the connection for the idle speed control, motor position sensor connector, throttle position sensor connector, EGR temperature sensor connection (California vehicles), fuel injector connectors, power transistor connector, ignition coil connector, condenser and noise filter connector, distributor and control harness, connections for the alternator and oil pressure switch wires.
    If equipped, with A/C, remove the A/C drive belt and the compressor. Leave the A/C lines attached. Do NOT discharge the system. Wire the compressor aside.
    Remove the power steering pump and wire aside.
    Remove the exhaust manifold-to-head pipe nuts. Discard the gasket and replace with a new one during installation.
    Attach a hoist to the engine and take up the engine weight. Remove the engine mount bracket. Remove any torque control brackets (roll stoppers). Note that some engine mount pieces have arrows on them for proper assembly. Double check that all cables, hoses, harness connectors, etc., are disconnected from the engine. Lift the engine slowly from the engine compartment.
  • blastermanblasterman Member Posts: 3

    This appears to be the procedure given in the Chilton's Manual. If you look about 10 lines up the page you will see it says" After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported". It doesn't defrentiate between A/T and stick trans. I don't think you could get enough clearance to get the engine off the trans input shaft of a stick trans. That's why I don't care much for these aftermarket manuals. There is always something they don't tell you. The incinuation is that you can take the engine out w/o the transaxle whether it's a stick or A/T.
    I also have the Haynes Manual. It says you have to remove the transaxle- period.
    The Mitsui Mechanic I talked to said he wasn't sure if you could pull the engine on an A/T and leave the transaxle in. He said they usually pulled them togather. That might just be to generate more revenue.
    The Mitsui forums didn't address the A/T trans, only the stick and said you had to pull both.

    I should have the Factory Manual in a couple of days, I'll see what it says. I still think there is room to pull the engine and leave the transaxle in place. I have made my living the past 20 years repairing all kinds of Machine tools and industrial equipment, much of which I had never seen before. I had a reputation for being able to repair stuff nobody else could so I think I can handle it. It's just kind of nice to talk to someone who has actually done something your not familiar with if you can.

    I appreciate you taking the time to respond. Will post back with what I find out. Maybe somebody else will find the info helpful.

  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It's AllData. Let me know what the OEM manual says.
  • blastermanblasterman Member Posts: 3
    This is in reply to the question I asked about a month ago about taking the engine out of a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse.

    Yes, you can remove just the engine in a Mitsubishi Eclipse with an Automatic transmission. The Factory manual says you have to pull the trans first, but I found that is not necessary. This will only work for cars with A/T trans, Sticks will have to pull the transaxle or pull it with the engine. Most people I spoke with say they drop them out the bottom of the car but this requires getting the car high enough to have clearance to get the assy out.
    1. Remove the crank pulley and the water pump pulley. This will give you about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of clearance to move the engine away from the bell housing.
    2. Remove the battery.
    3.Disconnect and label all necessary hoses and wiring plugs.
    4.Remove the starter and lay back out of way.
    5.Remove the A/C Compressor Mounting bolts and lay the compressor back out of the way, may need to use wire to hold it back. Do Not break any refrigerate lines.
    6.Remove the Power steering pump bolts and lay the pump out of the way.
    7. Remove the alternator.
    8.Disconnect throttle linkage and lay back out of way.
    9. Remove the radiator and fans.
    10. Remove the exhaust header pipe.
    11. Remove the torgue converter access/inspection plate.
    12. Remove the 4 bolts in the flex plate/converter connection. Rotate the engine clockwise using a screwdriver in the flywheel or a 1/2" drive ratchet in the crank pulley.
    13.Push the torgue converter back into the bell housing. May be stuck in pilot bushing. I made a couple of retainers to put pressure against the convertor and prevent it from coming out with the engine. I used 2 pieces of 12 Ga steel about 1 inch wide X 2 1/2" long. Drill hole in one end, bent in about a 45 deg curve. Attached to Front and back of bell housing with Inspection plate bolts. Don't dent or bend the torgue convertor housing.
    14. Connect hoist and take a strain on engine.
    15.Remove bell housing bolts.
    16. Remove top engine mount linkage near timing cover.
    17. Carefully rock engine to help break torgue converter/pilot bushing loose.
    18. Move engine clear of convertor and bell housing, then slightly forward so intake manifold will clear solenoids on firewall, then up and out of car.
    19. Go slow and keep looking around engine to make sure nothing gets hung up.

    Note- First step should be remove the Hood.

    This allows you to roll the car back outside or whatever while you work the engine over. Only requires a Cherry Picker or other suitable hoisting mechanism.

    This is the general procedure. Common sense is still required . Saves alot of time and effort.

    Hope this might help others needing to pull the engine in an A/T equipped car.

  • littlebuk13littlebuk13 Member Posts: 2
    Alas, I have searched all over the net and have yet to find the exact answer I desire and I hope you can help me out. I purchased the vehicle listed above about 6 months ago and when I did the previous owners told me that the transmission had just been serviced and the front axle replaced and the vacuum lines were not connected. Well I got to looking and have discovered not connected means no vacuum actuator and 3 lines just laying there. I have got it down to knowing that there is 2 smaller lines and one larger one and one of the lines has to connect to the vacuum actuator and the other two; I don't even know. I was wondering if you could tell me where the larger line goes and the two other lines go and how to tell which line was which; I would really appreciate it.

  • rustedhumfleetrustedhumfleet Member Posts: 1
    I own a 54 caddy with stuck 331. I want to put a SBC in her. The 331 has front motor mounts and was wondering if any one would know a good swap that might mount up to the original tranny. I pretty new at this stuff but willing to learn. I need an idea of fast cheap motor swap. Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you can have "fast" or you can have "cheap", but you can't have fast AND cheap on an old car like that one. Fast would be just rebuild the block in there, and cheap would be a Chevy crate motor and TH-400 transmission, but how it all fits in there is anybody's guess. You have to measure your new powertrain and make up the motor and trans mounts and figure out the driveshaft issues.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    the info appears to be on autozone dot com... if you can service intentionally-busted urls with spaces that don't belong (because the message won't post with a live click-it-now url), you can go directly there. if not, select your vehicle for service, go to vehicle repair info // transfer case // shift motor, and there is a diagram in the middle of the page.

    ht tp://ww w.auto zone.com/servlet/UiBroker?Forw ardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/12/b4/6b/0900823d8012b46b.jsp
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    have seen odd messages with an intact URL blown away after time. the fractioned URLs seem to stick around. curious that the robots don't always hack 'em, it may be related to content and they are knocked out by real live hosts, but that's why I now almost instinctively fracture the URL in at least the service identifier (htt p) and often crack 'em in the middle of a long one, too.
  • hatchman91hatchman91 Member Posts: 2
    I am swapping a 2.2 automatic for a 2.2 automatic. I cant get the engine out. i disconnected AC, fan, etc, alternator, ps pump, pretty much all the basics. Right side motor mount off chassis. Drive shaft...like I said all the basics. I cant get it out, help me please!!!!! I dont want to have to resort to taking off the cab!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Is it like NOT BUDGING one little inch or is it hanging up on something? In other words, when you lift does it lift the whole truck or does it pivot but not come out?

    Okay..check..is starter out? are battery cables off the engine block? Are you separated from the trans completely?
  • hatchman91hatchman91 Member Posts: 2
    Starter is not out, I saw that binding as I was givng up. I did not disconnect the trani, trying to pull as one unit. Help
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    So is it hanging up or not budging? How about the speedo cable.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Here ya go:

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable and properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
    2. Drain the engine cooling system and the engine oil into separate drain pans.
    3. Matchmark and remove the hood from the vehicle.
    4. On 1997 models, remove the battery.
    5. Raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jackstands. It will be most convenient if the truck can be supported so underhood access is still possible. Otherwise, the truck will have to be raised and lowered multiple times during the procedure for the necessary access.
    6. Unplug the Oxygen sensor electrical connection.
    7. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. On some models it may also be necessary to disconnect the catalytic converter from the exhaust pipe.
    8. Remove the braces from the engine and the transmission (if equipped).
    9. On 1998-99 models, remove the starter motor.
    10. Unbolt the transmission and separate it from the engine or, if necessary, remove it from the vehicle.
    11. If necessary for clearance on 1998-99 models, remove the alternator rear brace by unfastening the bolt and nuts.
    12. Disconnect the ground straps from the engine block and remove the drive belt.
    13. On 1997 models, GM recommends that you remove the water pump.
    14. Remove the A/C compressor and bracket. If possible, set the compressor and bracket to one side without disconnecting the lines.
    15. Tag and disconnect the hoses and transmission coolant lines engaged to the radiator, then remove the radiator.
    16. Remove the power steering pump and cap the power steering lines to avoid contamination.
    17. Tag and disengage the heater hoses from the heater core in the bulkhead or from the manifold.
    18. Disconnect the 12 volt supply from the mega fuse, if necessary.
    19. Tag and unplug all electrical connections and wiring harnesses.
    20. Tag and unplug all vacuum lines.
    21. Disengage the throttle cable, and if equipped the cruise control cable.
    22. If necessary for clearance on 1998-99 models, remove the EGR pipe and the EGR valve.
    23. Disconnect the fuel lines.
    24. Install a suitable lifting device to the engine.
    25. Remove the engine mount bolts and carefully lift the engine from the vehicle. Pause several times while lifting the engine to make sure no wires or hoses have become snagged.
  • ford830ford830 Member Posts: 1
    on a 1996 f 150 does the cab need to be raised to remove the engine.
  • aertolaaertola Member Posts: 2
    1992 toyota pickup. Put a rebuilt motor in three years ago along with many other parts. Just blew 2 cylinders. So much for the 22re being indestructible! Want to keep the truck. Should I get a junkyard motor, another rebuilt, or one of those brand new after market motors from ebay?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well a "rebuild" is only as good as the rebuilder. Some "rebuilds" are merely "overhauls" (a big difference).

    Rebuild should mean "all parts renewed or machined back to factory spec" (e.g., rebore cylinders with oversize pistons, re-machine crank with oversize bearings).

    Overhaul means "bad parts replaced, serviceable parts left alone". This usually means new rings on old pistons, maybe new bearing shells on an old crank, and a valve job and a paint job.

    Unless the rest of the truck is really pristine, I'd go for a junkyard motor that's been tested, bagged and warrantied.
  • aertolaaertola Member Posts: 2
    The truck is good shape but not pristine. I put a lot of money into this truck and I can't afford to replace it with something newer. I think I'll go with the junkyard motor as suggested.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    But only a tested engine,, with oil pressure and compression test #s written on a tag. Or if it's some bargain-basement place, you have GOT to hear it run and be able to test it yourself. That's just too much labor for rolling dice.
  • mazdarangermazdaranger Member Posts: 1
    i have a mazda b4000 that im doing a motor swap on. i have taken everything off the motor and took out all bolts holding the tranny and block together, and the 4 bolts holding the fly wheel and tourqe converter togehter, but the engine just wont come out. just wondering if there is something im over looking?
  • helpme20helpme20 Member Posts: 1
    hello can anyone tell me how to get a 6.9 diesel engine out of a 83 ford e350 van , there is no room to lift the engine up????????
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    One way I have seen it done is to fashion a plate that bolts to the carb (or throttle body) mounting flange on the intake manifold and then pull the motor straight out the front after removing the radiator, grill, etc. That's on a gas engine though, I wonder if it's possible on a diesel.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    1. Disconnect battery ground cables and remove engine cover.
    2. Drain cooling system, then remove front bumper, grille assembly and gravel deflector.
    3. On models equipped with speed control, unfasten speed control servo bracket and position aside.
    4. On all models, scribe hood latch location, then remove latch and cable assembly from grille upper support bracket.
    5. Remove upper grille support.
    6. On models equipped with A/C, discharge refrigerant from system, then remove A/C condenser.
    7. On all models, disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from oil cooler and radiator, then remove oil cooler with mounting brackets.
    8. Disconnect radiator hoses from engine, then remove fan shroud, fan and radiator. The fan retaining nut has left hand threads.
    9. Remove vacuum pump and drive belt, then disconnect vacuum line from transmission modulation pipe.
    10. Remove alternator adjusting arm, adjusting arm bracket and drive belt, then pivot alternator inward toward engine.
    11. Disconnect alternator electrical connectors from alternator and fuel line heater.
    12. Disconnect water temperature sender electrical connector from left front of cylinder block.
    13. Disconnect water temperature overheat lamp switch electrical connector from top front of left cylinder head.
    14. Remove engine ground cables from bottom front of engine.
    15. On models equipped with power steering, remove steering pump and bracket, then disconnect and plug return line from steering pump and position pump aside.
    16. On models equipped with A/C, disconnect refrigerant lines from A/C compressor.
    17. On all models, disconnect vacuum hose between injection pump and vacuum regulator valve and position aside.
    18. Disconnect and cap fuel heater inlet line from fuel filter and fuel pump.
    19. Remove air cleaner and intake duct and place a suitable cover over intake manifold opening.
    20. Disconnect and cap fuel filter outlet line from fuel filter and injection pump, then cover the injection pump and fuel filter openings.
    21. Remove fuel filter return line, then the fuel filter and bracket as an assembly.
    22. On models equipped with A/C, loosen A/C compressor mounting bolts and rotate compressor toward engine.
    23. On all models, disconnect and plug fuel inlet line at fuel pump.
    24. Disconnect accelerator and speed control cables, if equipped from injection pump and bracket on intake manifold and position aside. Remove cable bracket.
    25. Disconnect engine wiring harnesses and position aside.
    26. Remove transmission kickdown rod, then disconnect heater hose from water pump and right cylinder head.
    27. On models equipped with A/C and/or auxiliary heater, remove hoses from bracket at left rear of engine.
    28. On all models, disconnect oil pressure sender electrical connector from rear of engine.
    29. Disconnect fuel return line from left rear of engine, then remove transmission oil dipstick tube attaching bolt from rear of right cylinder head.
    30. Remove engine oil dipstick and tube.
    31. Remove ground cable to cylinder block attaching bolt, then the 4 upper transmission-to-engine attaching bolts.
    32. Raise and support vehicle.
    33. Remove engine mount attaching nuts, then disconnect exhaust pipe from exhaust manifolds.
    34. Remove converter inspection plate, then the 4 converter to flywheel attaching nuts.
    35. Remove starter cable, then move fuel, line on No. 1 crossmember down and aside.
    36. Lower vehicle and attach suitable lifting equipment to engine.
    37. Support transmission with a suitable jack and remove remaining engine to transmission attaching bolts.
    38. Separate engine from transmission, then raise engine high enough to clear No. 1 crossmember. Move engine forward and remove from vehicle.
    39. Reverse procedure to install.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Sounds like LOTS of fun!
  • ajaksajaks Member Posts: 11
    Great but which hose goes to which pole? There is a plastic protrusion between two poles. Is this a marker? And again which hose to which pole on the transfer case switch?
  • dmonicdmonic Member Posts: 2
    ok how hard would it be to git a 94-96 3000gt that is FWD and switch it to 4WD what parts would you kneed i understand a 4WD tranny will be kneeded .
    plz help because i am abought to drop in the 6g72tt in it and i kneed it 4WD
  • short_0neshort_0ne Member Posts: 4
    hi, im new to the site and i have a project im planning to start this summer. ive got an 88 ford f150 v8 302 5.0. im looking to pull the engine, drivetrain, suspension steering column, everything that makes the truck run basically. but i wanna know where to start and what things too look out for on the way. to be specific i wanna throw everything into a dunebuggy frame that ill have finished by the next summer. once i have all the parts out i can take measurements and build the frame accordingly. can anyone help????
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well first off, what are we going to DO with this dune buggy? Street legal only, off-road fun + street legal, offroad only + serious course, road racing across Mexico?
  • short_0neshort_0ne Member Posts: 4
    uhh, for now i was thinking off-road fun. more or less its just a base model, ill improve upon it later. right now im between two trucks to use for it. an 88 ford f150 v8 302 5.0L, which is for free, he said it runs, its just missing a starter. the other is an old 4cylinder ranger, rwd, standard transmission, running. i dont know the year of the ranger onhand. which vehicle would be the best option for what i want? also if i can help it i would like independant suspension, but are these vehicles able to go that way, and what things dictate whether or not u can have independant suspension?
  • short_0neshort_0ne Member Posts: 4
    Actually offroad and street legal......
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Might be good for you to do some homework before digging into this. I don't really have the expertise but I do know enough about car projects to know that one needs "a plan" laid out before starting.

    Maybe a subscription to this mag might be a good start for you?


    Looks like they know how to set up a PU for fast desert racing!
  • short_0neshort_0ne Member Posts: 4
    one last thing, you wouldnt have any idea on how to go from a front engine layout to a midengine layout?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you'd need a truck with a ladder frame, that's for sure, not a unibody. Then I guess it's a matter of engineering a cradle for the engine in center-frame, and of course a short driveshaft, some kind of engine cover, throttle linkage, shift linkage.

    It would be a challenge to one's fabrication skills! :surprise:

    Seems to me that any off-roader would need a long travel suspension kit and some way to widen the tire stance.
  • 2000eclipse2000eclipse Member Posts: 1
    is this process the same for a 2000 eclipse?
    Thank you
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