Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
Comments
In Canada, the 5-door with the 2.0L MZR engine has been available since mid-2008. It is designated as the GX model, while the GS and GT trim levels have the 2.5L MZR.
The 2011 Mazda3 GX Sport (the 5-door is called the Mazda3 Sport up north) comes with the 2.0L engine and 5-speed manual standard. Power windows/locks, keyless entry, ABS/TCS/DSC, 16” alloys and 4-speaker AM/FM CD system are also standard. It’s somewhat basic and the only options are 5-speed A/T and Air Conditioning, but it gets much better mileage than the 2.5L models.
Features such as steering-wheel-mounted audio controls, fog lights, cruise control, 6-speaker stereo and Bluetooth require a step-up to the 2.5L GS model. But the entry-level GX is still a great option to have...but only in Canada...
With the fuel cut during coastdown some means would need to be provided to aleart the driver with a message..."it's time to downshift (again)" or fuel flow will be restore. Downshifting involves using the clutch...Oops, just stalled the engine. Or the driver happens to use the clutch with the fuel cut active and the engine will STALL.
btw, the Future of the Manual Transmission is looking especially good given how much discussion it generates !
sincerely,
/e
So my statement pertained ONLY to gas engines.
Since you seemingly think the coastdown fuel technique can be taken advantage of with manual transmission passenger GASOLINE cars might you explain how...?
And while you're there please tell how manual transmission passenger cars with diesels engine take advantage of coastdown fuel cut.
Hmmm.... diesel passenger cars represent only 2% of the market...Does that mean only 20% of that 2% have manual transmssions, 99.6% overall...??
To clarify, the current technique COMPLETELY starves the engine of fuel, not even enough to sustain idle RPM. The technique will continuously downshift the transmission, but only enough to keep the engine turning over at some reasonable RPM. Once the roadspeed has declined far enough that engine RPM cannot be "safely" sustained then fuel flow is restored simultaneously with an upshift, often 2-stage/level upshift.
The transmission is then only shifted back down into first gear once the vehicle has come to a full stop, or nearly so.
With 4 kids plus friends, I would buy one in a heart-beat but they don't exist here.
Why aren't vehicles like this available in NA?
1. Mindless sheep aka the average consumers have been sucked into a ridiculous marketing fabrication that any vehicle which doesn't do 0-60 in under 8.5 seconds is unsafe.
2. Consumers won't buy diesels or MT vehicles because they are unfamiliar.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Yes, my '84 T-bird, V8/auto, slip it into neutral on the downside of the pass, and the MPG would quickly jump to 99 MPG, infinity insofar as the OBC computation was concerned.
Coasting along, coastdown, at ~60 MPG, clutch and the OBC will go to "infinity" although the engine is still being fed enough fuel for idle RPM.
Total fuel starvation during coatdown periods vs simple fuel "cut" to idle.
I concur with this as well - my VW manual gasoline wagon does the same.
There seems to be a subtle and not so subtle distinction between automatic/DSG and 5/6 speed manual transmissions, but I do not want to muddle the issues here until wwest has cleared up the issue in his own mind.
Even ME, driving my 996 C4 6 speed R/awd, I more often than otherwise simply push the clutch in during coastdown periods. Yes, there are times that I enjoy "sporty" driving, but those are rare in comparison.
And FULL fuel cut in a FWD or F/awd vehicle, fraught with peril.
Driver's, in general, being FE conscienous and thereby attentive to sequentially downshifting during coastdown ONLY to conserve fuel. Just doesn't happen..!
And FULL fuel cut in a FWD or F/awd vehicle, fraught with peril.
Fraught with peril?? Were you once a narrator for the Penelope Pitstop/Wacky Racers/Dudley Dooright cartoons??
Maybe that is why brake pads on my vehicles always last 100K+ miles. I think others are insane to say 30-40K pad replacement is "normal."
A good example of this is a typical freeway offramp where you are slowing from 70 to 25 mph to make a turn. Clutch in(move to neutral), brake, and then directly select 2nd when you get to ~25mph(exact speed varies and you have to blip the throttle a bit to get to the right RPMs for that speed, hence the "difficult" part for most beginners). 5th directly to 2nd, using essentially a slow-speed double-clutch technique You can also do the opposite as well when accelerating. I commonly just skip 4th entirely to save fuel.
Ie - unless you actually have a SMT gearbox and are forced to drive as such, you always get better clutch longevity and performance by selecting the gear that you need to be in directly.
This is incorrect. You should not be pushing in the clutch. As you indicate, the car would then need to feed enough fuel to keep the engine idling. If, however, you leave the vehicle in gear and lift off the gas, you will be using ZERO fuel, as the injectors are turned off completely by the ECU.
And, yes, I do this many times a day every day. When approaching each onramp, I try to time it so I lift early enough to coast to a safe speed to negotiate the ramp without ever touching the brakes. If I do it right, I'm able to go all the way around the ramp without touching the gas or brake. On one particular ramp on my way home, I'm coasting for about a half mile total using zero fuel and zero brake.
By the way, I hope you are shifting to neutral and releasing the clutch again. Coasting with the clutch pushed down will cause premature wear to the throwout bearing. Again, not that you SHOULD be coasting in neutral.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
For any type of automatic, don't shift of course. Just lift off the throttle.
My wife used to like to sit at lights with the clutch depressed the whole time (similar to the scenario presented by plekto). I finally was able to get her to break that habit.
***Engine is bring fed enough fuel to sustain idle RPM.
"..always be in the correct gear for the speed..."
Absolutely, fully agree...except during coastdown..who cares.
Yes, all of us probably enjoy an occassional period of "stirring" the gears to attain a consistent level of engine compression braking for quickly slowing the car. But I don't think that "coastdown" is quite the correct term to be used for that.
If my front brake pads EVER last to 40K miles I would be pleasently surprised, 25-30K more common.
How do you know, what is your foundation, for stating that your method results in zero fuel use..? I assume you either have authoritive documentation or have put an O-Scope on the fuel injector power and seen "0" duty cycle.
You can see injector duty cycle with a OBDII scan tool. Or laptop plugged into your piggyback computer, if you have one. Oh, that's just me.
Almost NEVER the proper gear for a quick return to acceleration which is where the 1-2 second "re-acceleration delay/hesitation most often bites us in the...behind.
The injector duty cycle seen by a scan tool is very real. It's the actual commands being given by the ECU at that moment. If it says 0, it's zero. I have never looked at mine when coasting either in gear or neutral. I can tell you duty cycle under full boost though.
At the 161,000 miles mark, the OEM front and rear brake pads and rotors have more than half left of pad material. I swag the F/R brake pads and rotors will last a min of 250,000 miles total (89,000 more miles MINIMUM) The clutch I have a reasonable expectation of 400,000 miles minimum. So really it is up to the driver/s to balance the wear on the wearable/consumable items or ... NOT. The same is true for higher mpg or...lack thereof.
It is something I've read in many places from several tech experts. It is kind of an accepted fact these days on modern computer controlled cars. I'm surprised this is the first you've heard of it. I can't say for sure where or when, but I do remember reading it fairly recently in one of the major car mags I subscribe to (C&D, MT, R&T, Automobile).
I could hook up my laptop with my vag-com and confirm ... but since I don't need to convince myself, I really don't want to bother.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Well my name is Smith, not Public, but I use it all the time and achieve a running average of 41 mpg in around-town driving in my Echo which is EPA rated at 34/41 (before the idiotic 2008 down-ratings which left the Echo at 29/36).
I coast down to below 1000 rpm in whatever gear I'm in before clutching out, and the really nice thing about the Echo's engine is it's so sweet-natured that it allows this without any bucking or surging. Oh, and it has never stalled ever, don't know what that stuff was all about.....
....and at 154K miles I have also never replaced the clutch or the brake pads in this car, which may be partially attributable to this coastdown habit I have so ingrained.....but I do, as some have mentioned above, match the engine RPM to the speed of the car before engaging a lower gear, to reduce wear on the clutch.....
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My scenario (odd term, but whatever...) is that I basically double-clutch and throw it into neutral as often as possible and hold it in neutral through the deceleration until I get to the right speed for that gear. Then go directly to the appropriate gear since I can skip gears I don't want. If you do it correctly, you match the gearing and revs and the clutch basically takes zero wear when it engages. Driving old 60s cars without modern syncros led to this habit.(had to do this lest you ground gears all the time) I'm in neutral at lights almost 100% of the time if I can help it, as well, because my knees aren't getting any younger.
Of course, it also matters how the vehicle is set up. My Volvo 240 years ago would stall almost instantly if I let off of the gas in 1st while stopped. My 4Runner, well, I could take my foot off of the gas and idling in first, it wouldn't stall out. In fact, it would creep forward at 1-2mph like an automatic. Evidently, idle was high enough to allow for no gas situations and still keep running. I suspect that most modern cars are like this as well - they won't actually stall out from fuel starvation without you really trying to make it stall.
Dumb question as I am not an engineer - wouldn't the fact that the wheels are turning and the transmission is coupled to the engine since the vehicle is in gear, keep the engine turning without fuel use?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
this is the beauty of a fully mechanical system, instead of an AT with fluid couplings and built in slippage.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
That's what I meant - in gear, clutch engaged, coasting, wheels turning, the bus goes round and round....
I tried it on the way in this AM. Coasting off the highway only a long ramp, left car in 5th and coasted - OBC read infinity. When I stepped on the clutch, reading jumped to about 40 MPG.
BTW, on a side note, my GTI is the first OBC I've had that reads up to 199 mpg before getting the "---" reading for infinity. All others I've had maxed out at 99mpg.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I've wondered the same thing in my car; as I coast down -- not much in the way of hills here in mid-MI -- the indicatated mileage on my scangauge is not high at all... i forget what it goes up to, but it's double-digit, and not "99."
And this has led me to believe that the injectors are still feeding in gas to keep the engine "running" as it were, even though I'm in an engine-braking situation. Now I wonder whether that's true, or whether the program jsut defaults to some high number.
The car is an '07 Pontiac Vibe 5speed. Anyone know what really happens?
Cheers -Mathias
The car uses less fuel than when you're accelerating or holding speed.
There, now don't you feel better?! :P :shades:
You know , it is truly like "looking for a small needle in a BIG haystack", to find a particular oem/models per hour idle fuel consumption. I have yet to find what the actual consumption rate is on the "no fuel draw" condition, like wise.
Having said that, I know it is .2 gal consumed @ idle per hour on the 5 speed Jetta TDI because of Vag.com graphs and folks ( far more into it than I happened to be) conducting experiments to sharpen the swag in +/- mpg. So a discussion number on a TDI is - 10 mpg. What percentage of that in the "no fuel draw" condition is unknown. However it is easy to swag it is some percentage and number WAY less than that.
On the other hand an "idling" engine during coastdown, downhill enough to sustain say, 55 MPH, can grow to infinity, "99"/ "--"/"---" before you reach the foot of the hill.
My '84 T-bird, 60 mph+ (plus enough to get me a speeding ticket as I reached the bottom) coastdown on the downside of the pass only went to "infinity" (99 MPG) once I shifted into neutral.
DBW is a requirement for full fuel cut during coastdowns or an idle air sourse that can be COMPLETELY closed. QUICKLY CLOSED and just as QUICKLY opened.
There are just simply to many variables, IMPORTANT variables that remain only under drive control, for me to believe that anything other than fuel cut only to idle would be viable in manual/clutch transmission vehicle
In response to one of your past posts', I used the example of the 110 miles downgrade/hill from 7300 ft to sea level on the (DBW) 5 speed TDI Jetta. It is good to see you intergrate that information.
Negative mile per gallon at idle! You are such a kidder.