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Credit Scores and Vehicle Financing

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Comments

  • jhinscjhinsc Member Posts: 399
    It seems to me based on your income and expenses, you should be able to save enough in 3-4 months to pay cash for a new car. So hunker down and save the substantial down payment or enough cash to outright buy a new car. Believe me, you don't want to pay outrageous interest rates for a depreciable asset, I've been there. Another alternative is to have someone co-sign with you to get a better rate. Maybe one of your parents? Then make your payments early or on-time and before you know it, in a few years your credit scores will be back up. :shades:
  • ftwmcmillanftwmcmillan Member Posts: 1
    I recently financed a 07 Yukon with a 621 Beacon score. I received my loan thru gmac. They gave me 6.99 on 5 years and 7.99 on 6 years. I took the 6 years. Did I get a good rate? I also rolled $10000 negative equity into the deal. I made a $2000 downpayment.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    It doesn't matter. Just don't get rid of that car for at least 5 years.
  • valleyvalley Member Posts: 12
    In fact, the dealer has no reason to not accept your "convenience check" as they are called these days - no need to deposit into your own bank first. And the credit card co. has to honour it. OK I just did a similar deed.
  • valleyvalley Member Posts: 12
    To be precise, how repayment schedule of auto financing affect credit score?

    I know this is the inverse of the initial question posted under this subject but I think it's relavant. I didn't have to finance, but I want to use this loan to improve my credit score because the credit on my plastics far exceeds my traditional loan experience - even though my plastic balance is next to nil.

    I know that variety of loan types makes up 10% of a FICO score. So by taking a secured loan such as an auto loan, I gain in variety - not to say I pocket the cash incentive the dealer offers. But I also notice that credit bureaus track data about my recent balances. So if I pay off too quickly, there is a concern that my FICO score will not improve.

    The finance guy at the dealership told me two things, I want to know if these are true or not.
    1) If I pay off in less than six installments, FICO may question the necessity of the loan in the first place, thus my credit score is not going to change. He sait that 6 is the magic number.
    2) If I take out too low a loan amount, it won't have much of an impact in FICO, either.

    I think the second point is well echoed in other people's talks. But with the first point, even if 6 is a magic number, wouldn't FICO see through it if I pay down 90% of a loan in one installment and leave just a nominal amount to meet 6?
  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Valley, you should know that the finance guy will lose any profit he makes on your deal if you pay it off before six months. He's looking out for his interests, not yours.

    Do you know what your FICO score is? You can get it for free. If it's already above 750, then don't worry about any of this, just pay the cash like you were planning to.

    The most important thing about your credit score is the ratio of your used credit to your income. As you note, variety only counts for 10% of your FICO. That is hardly worth paying all that extra money in interest if you don't have to.
  • valleyvalley Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the tips, biancar. Indeed my score topped 750 - just saw "possible range" of up to 950 and wanna "climb the ladder" ;) . This finance guy was indeed sneaky. As I later realized, he also cheated the salesman out of some of his commissions - or tried to. (Full story here.)

    It seems that the "magic number" for dealer is 4, as both sales and finance swore that I had to make 4 payments to qualify for the financing cash incentive - a claim that turns out to be nonsense.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,583
    The 4 payments, is so the dealer doesn't get a charge-back on the amount the finance company is paying them for writing the loan..

    That has no effect on you, of course..

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  • platinumbird1platinumbird1 Member Posts: 25
    If you know your credit score is above 700+ and one dealeaship is offering these financing terms. How do you approach the F&A to qualify for this offer. Any advise
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    If the DEALER is offering such financing they have to pay for it somehow and the way they do it is on price - you'll pay more for the vehicle than you otherwise would.

    Go for such financing only when offered by the manufacturer.

    Back your question - just have them run your credit and they'll tell you.
  • fades_spinsfades_spins Member Posts: 2
    hey all,

    I had a good FICO score of about 720 when I financed my new car 3 years ago. Through my credit union I got a decent interest rate of 6.4.

    As luck would have it, I was rear-ended last Friday and found out my car is a total loss. My credit score has plummetted to around 550-600. I'm afraid I'll be turned away when attempting to finance whatever car I end up getting.

    Once my insurance pays off my car, will my FICO score go up since my debt-to-earning ration will have improved? If so, how long will that take to show up on my credit report?
  • fezofezo Member Posts: 10,386
    Poking in here and ended up going over to freecreditreport.com (now I have to remember to undo the membership before the end of the 30 day free trial) and found the score up 34 points from when I last checked - and it was great then.

    The problem? Ooooh... I want to go car shopping and there's no logical reason to do it. It would be one thing if I were going after a nice BMW or some such but I'd only be replacing one minivan with another. Must resist. They sell me Uruguay if I wanted it....

    Hey! There was an earlier post that the top credit score was 950. Experian says 730. Anybody know if the three different agencies have different top scores?
    2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,583
    The actual "free" website is annualcreditreport.com

    freecreditreport.com is a commercial website..

    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • fezofezo Member Posts: 10,386
    annualcreditreport.com will gove you info but not a score. They want $7.95 per agency for that.

    freecreditreport.com will give you the number from Experian but it's only free for 30 days. That's fine. I only needed the number once.
    2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
  • fezofezo Member Posts: 10,386
    Experian has a score that tops out at 830. Trans Union's goes over 900 but I'm not paying $7.95 to find out where I might be on their scale. Equifax doesn't mention their scale.

    I did get the free report and there's not a bad mark on it so that's very nice. I'll have to see if my wife wants me to run one on her. Since I'm paying all the bills and pay us both on time all the time (having learned much younger what happens to bad boys who don't mind their credit) I would expect hers to be close to the same. We both make about the same money.
    2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 24,198
    I stumbled onto some website that had a credit score calculator and after answering all the questions I was told I had an "estimated score" between 770 and 820. How valid is this info? I have no mortgage(built house myself), one credit card (pay balance monthly) and haven't borrowed to finance anything since 1986. Sounds like I could get a car loan so low that they would pay ME %. LOL Any thoughts?

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I wouldn't go by the credit score calculator. By law you are allowed to receive a free copy of your credit score once a year (someone correct me if i am wrong). I would take advantage of that and find out your actual score is. Plus it's a good way to make sure there isn't any incorrect information on there.

    Judging by what you posted, you probably will qualify for the lowest possible rate. Not unless they say, you don't have enough credit. Never understood that argument.

    Good luck.
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    you can get a free copy of your credit report once a year but you have to pay to get your credit score.
  • gogiboygogiboy Member Posts: 732
    "and haven't borrowed to finance anything since 1986. Sounds like I could get a car loan so low that they would pay ME %. LOL Any thoughts?"

    oldfarmer-- from my perspective you are an excellent risk, but your rather spartan credit history might work against you. The credit bureaus all use debt/income ratio, payment history and available line of credit among other factors to calculate everyone's score. It seems counter intuitive, but someone having more cards (more available credit) who consistently pays on time could trump someone like you who only has one card and no evidence of financing since 1986--a very long time in the credit world. If you carry a substantial balance on your one card that could work against you, too since your available line of credit would be much lower than if you had three or four other cards that you had held for some time, if those cards were at or near zero balance and you never missed a payment.

    If you are planning to finance a big ticket item it's worth buying the scores simply to make sure there isn't any funny business in the loan office otherwise you can get a free credit report (minus scores) once a year just to make sure that no incorrect information has been recorded.

    Gogiboy
  • myleekmyleek Member Posts: 2
    this site is kind of confusing. I have a general question for any one that can help me. Bacck in 03 my mother signed for a car for me because of my credit was poor and is still poor. Now i was told that my buick park ave has only maybe 10,000 left and I must trade it in right away. How can I trade this car in as a trade in I owe about 3,000 grand on it
  • bobstbobst Member Posts: 1,776
    If your car is in such bad shape that it has a life expectancy of only 10K miles, then it probably is not worth very much, so you would not get much for it in a trade.

    You might as well keep driving it until it dies.

    Besides, wouldn't you rather be there to comfort it when it rolls to a stop with the engine smoking and a rod sticking out of the crankcase. All of us want to be with loved ones when it comes time to meet our maker.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    What year Park Avenue do you have??

    The Park Avenue is actually a very reliable car dispite what some people might say about anything made by GM. The 3800 Engine in there can go 200,000 miles or more without a lot of difficulty.

    Unless yours has a close to 200,000 miles on it already it should be fine.

    Did someone tell you that because your buick has XXX miles on it you have to get rid of it or something?
  • myleekmyleek Member Posts: 2
    i went to the dealership to get an oil change. I knew I was leaking oil some where underneth. The service tech showed me I was leaking oil from the bottom intake and leaking anit freeze up top. He also said he seen metal shavings in the oil. I have also keep my oil change and service the vehicle every 3000 miles.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Sounds like you have the dreaded plastic intake manifold problem. Fairly common on that vintage 3800 engine but not impossible to fix.

    Its not real cheap but its not real expensive either. I would just get it fixed and keep driving the car.

    Once that is fixed no reason you shouldn't get many more miles out of it with regular maintance.
  • lemkolemko Member Posts: 15,261
    I have a 1988 Buick Park Avenue and I'd probably would have to set out to deliberately destroy the car to kill it. I don't think the plastic intake manifold problem affected my car but it did have an effect on my girlfriend's 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass sedan with the 3.1 V-6. I believe it was $538 to repair.
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    The plastic intake, its actualy made out of a DuPont polymer called Zytel, wasn't used until the mid 1990's on series II 3800 motors only.

    I had a 1989 Pontiac Bonneville that had nearly 150,000 miles on it when I sold it. It is still going last time I talked to the guy.
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    You owe 3 on a 2000 Park that needs some repairs. You have some equity here (unless it has way high miles and/or is in poor cosmetic shape). Get it fixed and keep driving it.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Thanks for clarifying that nj2panc.
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 24,198
    I had a 1991 Olds 88 with the 3.8 engine. Ran fine for 127000 miles dispite my two young lads who used it like a demolition derby car. They finally managed to break the frame and dent every surface and body panel but as I drove it into the junkyard the engine still purred like a kitten.

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • rlg0822rlg0822 Member Posts: 1
    I'm a college student who is looking to buy a car. I don't have any experience in negotiating with a dealer. I have read on the website that one of the best ways to avoid the car dealership "getting over" on you is to have a auto loan before you walk into the dealership. I don't have an established credit history. Will I have to have a co-signer for the auto loan? Will the co-signer's credit history affect any aspect of the loan? If so, which aspects of the loan? :confuse:
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    they most likely will want a co-signer or a big down payment. The co-signer should have good credit to get you a good rate.There are dealers that will work with you.Good luck
  • iwasaudreyiwasaudrey Member Posts: 11
    I applied for a loan with my credit union a couple of months ago and was denied. I had only been at my job for two months and was/am making less than a desirable amount of income ($1000 a month gross income). I have now been at the job for four and 1/2 months and am getting a second job. I will only be working that job on the weekends (to keep length of employment going) and will be working at this new job full-time. Combining pay from both jobs I should be making about $2700 (gross income) a month. I have only had credit cards since June of 2006 so my credit is still new. I have about $900 in credit card debt (between three cards) but plan on paying that off before I attempt to finance anything. I have no other payments in my name aside from Blockbuster Online. I have no other debt. My question is, if I pay off my credit cards and save up to make a $1000-$2000 down payment on a 15k-18k vehicle do you think I will have a good chance of getting approved? I know only the bank can tell me for sure, but I was hoping for some opinions.
    By the way, I have been with the credit union since 2005 and my credit score is 685 (I know this can vary by agency).
  • shasta67shasta67 Member Posts: 109
    I think you would have a good chance of getting approved but might run into trouble with the new job that is now your primary job. You are kind of back in the same boat you were before, not much time on the job. If you could somehow wait for six months, pay your bills on time, it would be a slam dunk.
  • iwasaudreyiwasaudrey Member Posts: 11
    So keeping the length of employment going at my current job doesn't factor in? Because that is the only reason I am keeping that job, so that it will help me with a car loan.
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    the first thing the car dealership asks for is your s.s.# after they find out you are financing. They never asked if we had a job they were only interested in our fico score. When they find out how excellant we had no problems. If fact on one of the loan I had no job.
  • shasta67shasta67 Member Posts: 109
    I am sure it would help. I don't really know everything the finance companies look at. It just seems to me that your major source of income in a very new job. There is a major difference between $1000 and $2700 a month and I am sure it won't take long before they will finance you. Your credit score is good for someone with a limited credit history.

    As the other poster said, having a job is not always necessary. A few years ago I quit my job and took a few months off to kick around Asia. When I got back I bought a new truck. They asked where I worked but were not too concerned when I told them I was in the process of going back to work but had not decided where yet. I have pretty long credit history though and was putting 50% down. Not much risk for them really.
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    your credit score is based on your credit history I also have a rather long credit history with all showing paid on time or paid in full. I usually put a large downpayment when I buy new vehicles.
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    My take here is that with a relatively low down payment, you'll probably need a co-signer if you want to buy in the near-term. Your recent turn-down doesn't help.
  • hollyk5983hollyk5983 Member Posts: 4
    I am a nanny right now, I have been for the past year and a half. I get paid personal checks every week, so I do not have any pay stubs to show proof of income. I am the primary and sole owner of my car now. My credit score is 770 though and I have a decent down payment, will I still get approved for a loan based on this criteria?
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    You may not have pay stubs, but how about tax returns?
  • fezofezo Member Posts: 10,386
    That certainly ought to do the trick!

    iwasaudrey - on the credit cards keeping on making payment religiously on time will do you pretty much all the good that paying them all off will. Long periods of on time payments do wonders for your score (which, BTW, isn't bad).
    2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
  • hollyk5983hollyk5983 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your all your input. I'm only 23 so I haven't had my credit cards for that long of a period of time. I just recently learned that to earn a better credit score, you should just pay your payments on time. I always thought that if I don't have a balance at all that would be better for my score. But it makes more sense to keep a balance and just pay it off on time every month. You live and you learn.
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    This should help answer allot of questions behind the mysterious beacon score. What makes it good and what makes it bad. It will also help dispell some myths. The biggest myth being that every time your credit gets pulled your score goes down 5 points. So not true. This is not something I made up but straight from the folks at Equifax.

    BEACON LOGIC:
    Beacon is a generic risk score developed by Equifax and Fair, Isaac that predicts the likelihood that an account will become seriously “delinquent” in the next 24 months. “Delinquent” can mean:
    • 60 days late
    • 90 + days late
    • Charge-off
    • Repossession
    • Bankrupt

    Fair, Isaac also developed a generic risk score for Trans Union and Experian.

    ; Beacon scores range from 300-850. The higher the score, the lower the potential for serious delinquency (The higher the score, the lower the risk).

    Beacon is a non-judgmental tool.

    Beacon is a living, breathing score. As your credit changes so does your Beacon score. For example: As you open new accounts or start to slow pay a credit card – your Beacon score changes.

    PREDICTIVE VARIABLES:

    The most predictive variables that affect a Beacon score are:

    1. Consumers Previous Credit Performance:

    Since Beacon is predicting the future, the most predictive variable is your recent (12-24 months) credit behavior!

    Beacon looks to see how long it has been since the most recent 60 day (or worse) delinquency.
    Beacon looks to see what the highest level of delinquency reached in the last year.
    Beacon looks to see the number of months since the most recent derogatory public record.

    Charge-off: A new Charge-off bears more weight than an old charge-off.

    Paid/Unpaid Collection Items: Beacon does not care if a Collection Item is paid or unpaid. As far as Beacon is concerned, an account that has gone to Collection status is considered to be as bad as an account can get. However, Beacon does care how long it has been since the last Collection Item.

    2. Current Level of Indebtedness:

    Beacon does not have the luxury of knowing what a consumer’s debt to income ratio is. Therefore, Beacon concentrates on the level of debt (especially Credit Card debt) that a consumer has.

    Beacon weighs heavily against credit card debt due to the fact that credit card debt is unsecured.

    To help increase your Beacon score: Make sure that you are never over 50% maxed out on any one credit card.

    3. Amount of time credit has been in use (Credit Stability):

    Has the consumer had existing accounts open for 10 years or 6 months? Chances are, the more time Beacon has been able to track a consumer’s credit behavior, the better the Beacon score will be.

    4. Pursuit of New Credit:

    Has a consumer been shopping for credit recently? If a consumer has been shopping for a car or mortgage – all inquiries that occur within a 30 day period will be considered as only one inquiry to Beacon. Beacon realizes the difference between a habitual shopper and a consumer shopping for the best interest rate.

    MINIMUM SCORING CRITERIA – Beacon will not score a Credit Report with the following:

    A deceased indicator on file
    Safescan Warning
    “File under Review”
    A file with no tradelines
    No updated tradelines in the last 6 months. (Beacon is unable to predict the future if it can’t see how a consumer has paid their bills in the last year).

    Beacon will ignore the following tradelines:

    Child support tradeline
    Family Support tradeline
    Returned check items
    Rental Agreement

    INVISIBLE INQUIRIES – Inquiries that do not affect the Beacon score:

    Consumers requesting a copy of their credit report from Equifax
    ; PRM (Promotional) Inquiries – Consumers receiving promotional credit card offers in the mail.
    AR (Account Review) Inquiries – Credit grantors reviewing their customer’s credit file. Companies review their “loan portfolio” in order to determine if they should close the account (if Beacon has decreased) or increase the Credit Limit (if Beacon has increased).
    EMP (Employment) Inquiries – Credit report pulled for Employment purposes.

    Note: Inquiry de-duping – For a 45 day period multiple auto inquiries are treated as one and multiple mortgage inquiries are treated as one.

    TO IMPROVE A BEACON SCORE:

    Obtain a copy of your Credit Report. Address any discrepancies with all 3 Credit Bureaus.
    Pay your bills on time. Delinquent payments on mortgages, automobiles, and national credit cards can have a major negative impact on a Beacon Score.
    Pay down high outstanding balances. Keep balances low on unsecured revolving debts like credit cards. High outstanding balances can affect a score negatively.
    Do not take on new debt. Apply for and open new credit accounts only as needed.
  • gasman1gasman1 Member Posts: 321
    joel0622 - Thanks! This in-depth explanation makes a lot of sense! It should help a lot of people that want to be helped.
  • bongbeeebongbeee Member Posts: 8
    About a week ago I applied for a car loan through a local credit union. I was told I was pre-approved for 20K at a 6.74% rate and they even gave me a code to give to the dealer when I was ready to buy. However, I just received in the mail the other day that I was denied the loan because of poor credit. I ran a credit check with all three credit bureaus (www.creditreport.com) prior to applying for the loan and found I had a score of about 680. I had some problems with credit during my college days, but for over 2 years now I have not had any late payments, nor delinquincies or collections. I have had credit for about 8 years and I only have a small balance on one credit card. I have also been with my company for almost two years and make about $44,000 a year. I have no current mortgages or car payments, except for a school loan. Does it seem right that I was denied credit? And why would they tell me I am pre-approved and make me feel as though I was fine when I wasn't? Would it help to talk to the credit union? Any input would be great. Thanks.
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    Call the credit union. I bet you are approved.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,583
    Yeah.. makes you wonder... It could be the dealer sending you a notice that you aren't approved, so you'll come back and take their financing....

    I would definitely call the credit union.

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  • bongbeeebongbeee Member Posts: 8
    T :) hanks for your replies kyfdx and joel0622. Do you really think the dealer would do something like that? I was pre-approved on Wednesay, went to the dealer on Friday and received the letter Saturday. I was just really confused, because I have a friend who went through the same credit union, with about the same score but really no credit history (half the number of years) and only one major credit card. I'll give them a call later today and find out what's going on. Thanks again.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,736
    new or used? how long of a term?

    I ask these questions because it is possible, if let's say this is for a used car for 48 months, the 6.74% is for top tier credit. 680 isn't top tier. So they have realized this and denied it. They may approve at a higher rate.

    But, as others said, it could just be a clerical error, too.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • bongbeeebongbeee Member Posts: 8
    I forgot to mention that: they actually don't base approval or gives rates on a tiered level. This is for a new car and for a term of 60 months. My friend who has the same credit rating bought a used car and only took out a 12K loan. I guess I'm just really confused why they would tell me I am pre-approved then send a letter and say I'm not. But you're right, I know 680 is not top notch credit - by far if that.
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