I have a 06 Accord VP 4 door. 15 inch steel wheels are standard. Is it possible to change to 16 inch alloy wheels such as the ones on the LX Special Edition? I read in the manual that making modifications such as this can affect suspension and ABS.
Yes, you can go aftermarket, but be careful what you get. SOme of them aren't made that well, they can be heavy, and you need to make sure they have the correct offset.
IMO, stick with the OEM wheels if you can. They will bolt right on, fit correctly, and even look like they belong on the car.
They are probably way overpirced from the dealer, so see if you can find a set of take-offs from soemone that bought a new car and upgraded. You can save a ton of money that way.
If you don't want to go all the way up to a 17" (from the coupe or V6), the 16" EX wheels will work nicely, and are probably easier (and cheaper) to find.
Also remember that they will probably come with the tires on them. If you buy aftermarket, you also have to get new tires.
And, keep your original steelies. If you live in snow country, they will work nicely with snow tires, especially if you end up with 17" wheels.
I completely agree. Aftermarket is cheaper and you can find so really good deals out there (I got a set of 16" kazara's and goodyear tripletreds for 1K with lifetime tire repairs/rotation on my 93 camry). In terms of aftermarket designs, most are for show, so unless you really want to stand out, I'd try and find oem's. I'm waiting for my oem tires on my accord to wear out before I get a new set of wheels, just because I'll be going to 17" from the 15" LX wheels, and it seems like a waste of a perfectly good set of tires
OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer - basically any part of the car that's usually made by a subcontractor. The twist with tires is that Honda may buy tires from different manufacturers for the Accord, so the OEM tires on yours may be a different brand or model from another persons.
The other twist is that people claim that OEM products may not be the same quality as the item you can buy aftermarket, even though the part or the tire has the same number. So you may hate or love the tires that came on the new car but replacement tires of the same brand and model may not perform the same.
Some people think it's better to buy OEM replacement parts for things like shocks, since they figure that the car engineers specified specific qualities for the shocks while the franchise outfits or auto parts companies may make a generic shock to fit lots of cars.
More than you asked about...and I'm sure there's lots of other twists to the definition!
hello all i have a 90 accord with the 2.2 and all i have done is a 4-2-1 header high flow cat. 2 1/4 pipe back to the after market muffler cold air intake all the way down in too the fender and cut out the front bumper to let more air in and a front strut brace gas mileage did not change with the exh. open but when i put in the bafel i lost about 5 mpg it is a auto trans and has 16" rims as far as putting on a turbo they are nice and add lot of power but to much money and too many things that has to be changed out for it too a daily driver in my book but for race or weekends would be great IF you have the money too dump in to it have pics of my accord for anyone that wants too see them
I have a 97 LX 5sp Man, and I want to get some more power, so I can accelerate faster. At this point I cannot afford a whole lot, maybe $300. If I went with a new intake system, what would one suggest? I have looked at the AEM systems, and I would like to know the difference between the regular AEM cold air intake vs. the short ram vs. the V2.
well, you can spend your money on an intake, but don't expect a noticeable difference in acceleration. They sometimes add a few ponies, but not enough that you'd actually feel it and usually not even enough to be measurable.
I can tell you that a CAI takes in air from outside the car (hence cold air) while a short ram take air from inside the engine bay (this being hot air and far less desirable). I don't think I can tell you the difference between the V2 and CAI.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
agree with above....You wont notice much of a difference with an intake, whether warm air or cold air...maybe 3 or 4 ponies (give or take). but the sound is nice. :shades:
ok, thanks for your help guys. I was reading on the manufacturer's site that the V2 can increase your HP up by as much as 15, They could just be trying to sell the product though.
Look at the dyno charts. 15 hp is the max gain but not throughout the entire RPM range, mainly upper end. The difference in power can be felt though! The V2 extended the Hp increase to the mid and lower RPM ranges.
Eibach just released their pro kits for the 06 coupe/sedan V6. shows a 1.4 front drop and .7 rear drop. Most likely no one has them yet but just wanted to see if anyone does and if so how is the look and the ride quality. Maybe someone with an 05 coupe V6 can tell me how this kit looks and feels. Just looking to get rid of that ugly wheel well gap without a harsh ride.. anyone??? :shades:
Well, here's the thing. One sample of dyno charts don't always tell the whole story.
I don't want to say this particular manufacturer is lying or anything, but lemme put it this way ... if I had an intake I wanted to sell, I would run a hot car in a hot garage with a well-used paper filter in a stock intake ... then compare that to a car running in a nice chilly garage with a fan blowing into the front grille and running a brand new free-flowing filter on my intake. Will you see a difference? Absolutely. Is it a comparison that's totally on the up-and-up? Nope. But who is gonna know unless I opt to post the exact conditions I run each car in?
And this isn't just about intakes, but this is kinda one example of how manufacturers of any product can skew their data to put them in the best possible light.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Wow you guys are something else. Are you lawyers? They are the only ones who argue that much with published facts.
However, it you don't think the tests are legitimate, then don't buy a cold air intake. Why argue it to death.
All I know is I put one in my 1995 Integra GSR and it significantly improrved the performance. Alos, puton a cat-back exhuast and different tires.
As a side, the air conditioner before was always slow to cool. After the CAI it reached cooling temperature much quicker.
Okay on my one Honda now, just have K & N filter and Borla exhuast and on the Honda other only voodoo shifter knob and Invidia exhaust. LOL They both feel fast!
Lawyer? No. I'm a realist. Sure, they say 15whp. But they never mention what other mods are installed. 15whp is a SIGNIFICANT increase in power in a low displacement/output car like a Honda.
Next, since when does the engine's intake have anything to do with air conditioning?
Finally, unless the original poster has deep pockets, both the TSX and S2000 swaps aren't happening.
"Next, since when does the engine's intake have anything to do with air conditioning?"
Since you asked, the orginal engine bay was completley filled. With the cold air intake coming from just under the fender well, the engine bay opened up and there was a lot more air flow I guess. Anyway, an unexpected side benefit in the case of a 1995 Acura Intergra was instead of being a medicore A/C it became pretty fast cooling A/C.
LOL I know the swaps would be costly, but the guy wants HP and you are saying CAI, headers, an exhaust don't really add that much Hp. I guess he could look at a turbo or SC.
wat up guys i'm ready to start all the Performance Mods. on my car including engine swapping. Any Recommendations on wat kind of engine to get I currently have a 2.4L Vtec engine 4cly (Auto) Now my question is, is it possible to stick a V6 in there or a Acura TL engine in there, what are my options when it comes to the engine swapping?
That sounds like a whole lot of work. I'm not sure what year Accord you have or what your financial situation is, but my suggestion would be to trade it in on a V6. Most cars that have a bigger engine usually have upgraded suspension, tires, and other components to accomodate the extra weight of the heavier, more powerful engine.
hey! does anyone have experience with any of these short-throws on a late model V6-6MT?? seems pretty cheap and easy to install. wonder if it screws w/ anything, or is mushy, etc.
I have a 2005 6-speed Accord and 2006 6-speed S-2000. The shifters are great . They lower the shift knob about 1/2". Just unscrew the old and screw on the new; less than a minute to install.
The way they lower the shift is that the knob is almost drilled clear through the top of the shift knob , so it sits lower on your existing shifter threads.
do you have this on your accord? I'm reading real quick, but i don't see anything about the accord on that site. Just the S2k. If it works on the Accord, I might be in for that (although it won't eliminate the slight rubbery feel of the stock shifter - but any improvement would be welcomed).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
welllll... not necessarily. I'd have to be sure the threads are the same on the S2k stick as the Accord stick. I'd also have to check how deep the threads go on the Accord stock shiftknob. Who knows? Maybe its already threaded on there pretty deep?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
i gotta wait a few weeks before my wife will let me make any kind of purchase though. so when i call i want to be able to make a purchase on the spot if they have the right answers.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Hi, I am new to this forum. I want to know has anyone done retrofiting the headlight. I m thinking of using TSX HID set and retrofit in my Accord OEM headlight. Anyone know the place that can do it in LA area. I found some forum showing detail how to retrofit yourself. But i want to do with professionals. The reason I am using TSX set is It is DOT approved. I have 06 Accord EX 2.4L I4 engine. What will be the cost effective way to boost the power? What are the options i can do to get more power from this engine. Thanks...
Has anybody put TSX shocks/springs on an Accord? My understanding is that the TSX has the exact fitment of certain 4 Cyl. Accords (03-05?), including mine (2005 Accord LX - Manual Transmission). The reason that I am asking is because I picked up a set of take-off shocks/springs (TSX owner upgraded their stock set-up) for practically nothing.
Prior to buying the TSX suspension parts, I had purchased a set of Eibach (Pro-Kit) Springs. Now, I'm not sure how to proceed. I don't know which springs to use, as I'm not sure how the Eibach's measure against the stock TSX springs. I'm also curious how the Accord shocks compare against the TSX ones, as I will be switching over to the TSX shocks. I'm also wondering if anybody knows how much the car would be lowered, if any, using just the TSX components. I just want to close the wheel gap a bit, and am not looking to drop the vehicle too much. I'm conservative.
Any insight/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I just got ahold of a virgin LX-i... I want to play with it, and I'm new to tuning... suggestions? I have a VW 12.5lb turbo I'm thinking about putting on it myself, I can do the metal work. What things should I do to this car to make it all out fast? I'm new to this, haha. I have a cat-back magnaflow on it already, and it doesn't do a whole lot, it does a little though, and it sounds meaner than it did. What next? is my turbo idea crazy?
does anyone know a good set of performance springs for an 07 Accord VP? The ride height should not drop drastically, but enough to significantly boost performance. Thanks
you can get Eibach pro kits or Tein H-Tech springs that will give you a mild drop of an inch or so. The Eibach's cost a little more but are good quality. However, your ride will become a little more harsh because of the drop and you might want to consider some aftermarket shocks/struts as your stock ones will be more challenged and will wear out quicker. If you do get the aftermakret shocks/struts, install them at the same time as the springs or you will pay twice for labor. Its kind of a trade off as you will get better looks with the springs and handling will also improve but you will suffer with poor ride quality and will feel the bumps more.
Thanks, I think I'll go with the Eibach springs, and I'll probably get shocks/struts too. This may sound kinda weird, but every since I was a kid, I loved it when we drove over bumps, so a rough ride is an added bonus for me.
AEM makes a good cold air intake- to get the most hp thermoplastics conducts no heat where aluminum has a little generated when in use on a intake -a coated header is next you have 2 choices 4-2-1 or 4 into 1. For street use a 4-2-1 is the best this will give you more torque at a light from a dead stop. The exaust must be mandrell bent which means the exaust flow in not hindered in any way and a racing converter in a must. Once you introduce moue air you must give the engine more fuel- you will need a fuel pressure regulator buy a complete unit and a new fuel pump. Next for the brakes replace the rubber lines with stainless steel units and high temp Dot 4 brake fluid. The suspension will need some polyurthane bushings and a bigger roll bar in front and back. You will also want strut braces top and bottom front and rear. The clutch if manual should be replaced for a ACT unit and a light steel flywheel put in at the same time while the trans is open a limited slip diff is also recommendedand that is only a start
Just trying to update this thread to see if anyone has used the Eibach Pro Kit on their V6 and how the car rides and looks. Like oldmansi I'm looking for a firmer ride without too much harshness or road chatter. I've noticed that there are still no struts out for the '06'-'07 either by Eibach or Koni. But maybe the ProKit springs plus upgraded ultra-high performance tires can do the trick?
The stock struts will not last if the car is lowered with only springs. I was thinking about getting the Honda factory "Sport suspension package". I think it lowers the car 1 1/2".
Can it be installed on the '06-'07 models, and can it go on the sedan as well as the coupe?
I just found that the Koni Yellows are listed for the '06 V6 on TireRack.com, so that's an option too--and a lot cheaper than the Honda suspension upgrade package that I saw. I've been told that the Koni Yellows work well with the OEM springs. What do you think?
The Honda suspension package I saw was on H&A, but they may have sold out, because I don't see them on the site now. OK, Eibach ProKit springs will work with the stock shocks (sportline will not, they require stiffer shocks). Some people experience the "boat look" with this setup however (rear lower than front). Not all cars have this problem however. I would suggest doing some more research on the subject though. Good luck
the pro kits should be ok with the stock shocks/struts and the drop is 1.4 front and .7 rear, so it will not give u the saggy rear drop. the stock shocks/struts will be challanged more so they will not last as long as aftermarket shocks like the Koni's. but, with a mild drop like this you should be ok for a while. the HFP set up is good but drops the car 1 inch front and back , which does not even out the wheel well gap.
OK, I've been doing more research for this and I'm hoping for some feedback on these options. I drive a '07 V6 Accord and my priorities are:
1) Close to (improved?) OEM ride & noise comfort, with 2) Moderately improved handling & steering response 3) Look, drop, &/or rake angle a secondary factor to the above
Options I'm considering:
1) Pretty well sold on the Koni Yellows for struts 2) Springs? This is where the confusion sets in: Tein H-Tech vs. Tein S-Tech vs. H&R OE Sport vs. H&R Sport vs. Eibach ProKit. Any experience out there with how these springs do on the V6 (with the Konis)? 3) Not sure how to evaluate the HFP suspension package compared to the Koni + springs option (it would be cheaper) 4) Probably will not try adding a rear sway bar because I don't need the understeer help it gives, and don't want the additional road chatter it gives
Right now I'm leaning towards either the H&R OE Sport or the Tein H-Tech because they have the least drop and are slightly above OEM spring rates (as best as I can tell). I'm figuring my new tires will get me most of the way I want to go, so I don't want to overdo the >handling/>harshness thing. I'll be using Kumho SPTs for non-winter driving. Comments on the HFP package welcome too. Thanks!
Comments
IMO, stick with the OEM wheels if you can. They will bolt right on, fit correctly, and even look like they belong on the car.
They are probably way overpirced from the dealer, so see if you can find a set of take-offs from soemone that bought a new car and upgraded. You can save a ton of money that way.
If you don't want to go all the way up to a 17" (from the coupe or V6), the 16" EX wheels will work nicely, and are probably easier (and cheaper) to find.
Also remember that they will probably come with the tires on them. If you buy aftermarket, you also have to get new tires.
And, keep your original steelies. If you live in snow country, they will work nicely with snow tires, especially if you end up with 17" wheels.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
The other twist is that people claim that OEM products may not be the same quality as the item you can buy aftermarket, even though the part or the tire has the same number. So you may hate or love the tires that came on the new car but replacement tires of the same brand and model may not perform the same.
Some people think it's better to buy OEM replacement parts for things like shocks, since they figure that the car engineers specified specific qualities for the shocks while the franchise outfits or auto parts companies may make a generic shock to fit lots of cars.
More than you asked about...and I'm sure there's lots of other twists to the definition!
Dan
I have a 97 LX 5sp Man, and I want to get some more power, so I can accelerate faster. At this point I cannot afford a whole lot, maybe $300. If I went with a new intake system, what would one suggest? I have looked at the AEM systems, and I would like to know the difference between the regular AEM cold air intake vs. the short ram vs. the V2.
thanks for your help.
ND
I can tell you that a CAI takes in air from outside the car (hence cold air) while a short ram take air from inside the engine bay (this being hot air and far less desirable). I don't think I can tell you the difference between the V2 and CAI.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Exactly. Manufacturers love to make all kinds of marketing claims to sell products. That's advertising for you.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Also get cat-back exhaust and headers.
Well, here's the thing. One sample of dyno charts don't always tell the whole story.
I don't want to say this particular manufacturer is lying or anything, but lemme put it this way ... if I had an intake I wanted to sell, I would run a hot car in a hot garage with a well-used paper filter in a stock intake ... then compare that to a car running in a nice chilly garage with a fan blowing into the front grille and running a brand new free-flowing filter on my intake. Will you see a difference? Absolutely. Is it a comparison that's totally on the up-and-up? Nope. But who is gonna know unless I opt to post the exact conditions I run each car in?
And this isn't just about intakes, but this is kinda one example of how manufacturers of any product can skew their data to put them in the best possible light.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The dyno results are bunk though. Who knows what other modifications were added to get that gain.
Sure, it had an intake that played a part in the gains. To gain 15whp, it had to have other assistance mods.
However, it you don't think the tests are legitimate, then don't buy a cold air intake. Why argue it to death.
All I know is I put one in my 1995 Integra GSR and it significantly improrved the performance. Alos, puton a cat-back exhuast and different tires.
As a side, the air conditioner before was always slow to cool. After the CAI it reached cooling temperature much quicker.
Okay on my one Honda now, just have K & N filter and Borla exhuast and on the Honda other only voodoo shifter knob and Invidia exhaust. LOL They both feel fast!
YMMV,
MidCow
P.S.- Do a S2000 or TSX engine swap.
*shrug*
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Next, since when does the engine's intake have anything to do with air conditioning?
Finally, unless the original poster has deep pockets, both the TSX and S2000 swaps aren't happening.
Since you asked, the orginal engine bay was completley filled. With the cold air intake coming from just under the fender well, the engine bay opened up and there was a lot more air flow I guess. Anyway, an unexpected side benefit in the case of a 1995 Acura Intergra was instead of being a medicore A/C it became pretty fast cooling A/C.
LOL I know the swaps would be costly, but the guy wants HP and you are saying CAI, headers, an exhaust don't really add that much Hp. I guess he could look at a turbo or SC.
Cheers,
MidCow
i've always missed the throw on my old integra!
thanx!
Rick's Voodoo is best about $35-40. See web URL: http://www.ricks2k.com/products/shiftknob.php
The way they lower the shift is that the knob is almost drilled clear through the top of the shift knob , so it sits lower on your existing shifter threads.
Cheers,
MidCow
i was actually referring to the do-hickey such as this one at:
http://www.neuspeed.com/products/product_details.asp?app=53|AC&type=3<ype=ns_i- mport&p_id=1047
i guess it adjusts the throw of the arm itself(?)
any experience?
thanx again...
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Haven't had any direct experience with the true short shifter, but I have talked to some friends who say they work very well.
Shift -ON,
MidCow
I only have it on the S2K. But it is just a threaded ball and should work on the Accord as well.
Cheers,
MidCow
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You might be right, but more than likely it will work. Just contact Rick's VooDoo and ask them for sure. If you want I will contact them.
Good Luck,
MidCow
i gotta wait a few weeks before my wife will let me make any kind of purchase though. so when i call i want to be able to make a purchase on the spot if they have the right answers.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Already contacted them
Yes, it fits all Hondas with manual transmissions.
Rick
Richard A Hesel
Rick's Signature Accessories
www.ricks2k.com
by the way, which finish do you have?
hmmm... the drop-down price list doesn't have the titanium. And i wonder what the black ones are made of. also aluminum?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I am new to this forum. I want to know has anyone done retrofiting the headlight. I m thinking of using TSX HID set and retrofit in my Accord OEM headlight. Anyone know the place that can do it in LA area. I found some forum showing detail how to retrofit yourself. But i want to do with professionals. The reason I am using TSX set is It is DOT approved.
I have 06 Accord EX 2.4L I4 engine. What will be the cost effective way to boost the power? What are the options i can do to get more power from this engine.
Thanks...
Prior to buying the TSX suspension parts, I had purchased a set of Eibach (Pro-Kit) Springs. Now, I'm not sure how to proceed. I don't know which springs to use, as I'm not sure how the Eibach's measure against the stock TSX springs. I'm also curious how the Accord shocks compare against the TSX ones, as I will be switching over to the TSX shocks. I'm also wondering if anybody knows how much the car would be lowered, if any, using just the TSX components. I just want to close the wheel gap a bit, and am not looking to drop the vehicle too much. I'm conservative.
Any insight/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
http://www.hondanews.com/CatID2104?mid=2003071549412&mime=asc
Can it be installed on the '06-'07 models, and can it go on the sedan as well as the coupe?
I just found that the Koni Yellows are listed for the '06 V6 on TireRack.com, so that's an option too--and a lot cheaper than the Honda suspension upgrade package that I saw. I've been told that the Koni Yellows work well with the OEM springs. What do you think?
1) Close to (improved?) OEM ride & noise comfort, with
2) Moderately improved handling & steering response
3) Look, drop, &/or rake angle a secondary factor to the above
Options I'm considering:
1) Pretty well sold on the Koni Yellows for struts
2) Springs? This is where the confusion sets in: Tein H-Tech vs. Tein S-Tech vs. H&R OE Sport vs. H&R Sport vs. Eibach ProKit. Any experience out there with how these springs do on the V6 (with the Konis)?
3) Not sure how to evaluate the HFP suspension package compared to the Koni + springs option (it would be cheaper)
4) Probably will not try adding a rear sway bar because I don't need the understeer help it gives, and don't want the additional road chatter it gives
Right now I'm leaning towards either the H&R OE Sport or the Tein H-Tech because they have the least drop and are slightly above OEM spring rates (as best as I can tell). I'm figuring my new tires will get me most of the way I want to go, so I don't want to overdo the >handling/>harshness thing. I'll be using Kumho SPTs for non-winter driving. Comments on the HFP package welcome too. Thanks!