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Hoping to get some comments on this unusual situation. Recently had front and rear brakes done at 45,000 miles using ceramic brake pads. Dealer wanted about $275 for rear brakes alone while local shop where have been going for years asked about $375 for both front and rear with ceramic pads.
As I drove away from shop I felt had to apply a little more pressure to brake peddle compared to before having new brakes done. Seemed ok, however. The next morning as I started to back out of my garage and down a little incline, I applied brakes to keep the back out out/down driveway slow. The brakes did not take hold, however, and I had to push peddle all the way to floor before they kicked in. Very upsetting! I proceeded to drive and everything seemed fine, brakewise, and no problem for rest of day.
The next morning my wife took my M35 and proceeded to back out of driveway and same brake fad occurred. When she drove on straight away it was fine. I called brake guy and he said to bring it in.
The third day and thereafter, backing out of the driveway was fine and normal and the fad while backing out of driveway has not happened again.
Brought car in to brake guy and he hoisted it on rack and checked each tire's brake line for leakage and found nothing. Checked brake fluid under hood and it showed full. He stated he could not understand what caused the problem backing out of driveway on first two days and everything looked fine to him.
Any opinions or suggestions as to what caused fad on backing out of driveway on the first two days after i had the brakes done???? Have not had any problems since and they feel ok. now. Opinions please. Thanks!!
Is the car under warranty? The dealer can check the brake's hydraulic system. I am not an expert. Are ceramic brakes for racing? Are they harder than OEM pads? Softer pads can be quiet and comfortable but dusty. Maybe ceramic is not the best choice but is probably not related to peddle to the floor hazard. I would not drive the car until this is solved.
The ceramic brakes for a performance vehicle are appropriate.They do not fade with heat and last longer.What you describe, sounds like there was some air in the lines and you now have purged them out.The fact that the air returns to the brake cylinder ,causing the level to decrease, yet the volume of air is small would still allow them to appear full. If you have a relationship with this mechanic and he feels they are fine,I don't see that there should be a recurrent issue.You may want also want to place some cardboard or a sheet under the vehicle and check for any leaks,it may leak and evaporate on pavement.
The M35 comes new with ceramic brake pads, Ceramic replacement pads are just fine for this car. You didn't mention whether you have the brake fluid changed? If, so there might be some amount of air in the lines. To be safe if you fluid was changed with new pads ask the shop if they'll re-bleed the brake lines.
I just traded in a BMW 528 for an M35. So far I have only driven in the city below 35 mph. I was wondering if the steering is tighter when you get on the highway, as I find it very loose in city driving.
I had read about the problem that the M35 had with the TPMG. When I discussed the car with the sales manager, "no problem all repaired". When I picked up the car, the salesman "no problem all fixed." I hadn't driven 40 miles, when the yellow light came on, and it is still a problem. Waiting to hear about when and how the car is to be fixed, but furious that it was never checked out after I specifically asked about it.
We just picked up a 2010 M35x. I notice some hesitation when accelerating and when coming out of a turn, same problem as I start to accelerate. Dealer said there can be a second or two delay because of the computer coordination with the engine. Is this something unique to the model that I will have to get used to?
I certainly don't notice any delay on my 2008 M35 in engine response. It can take the transmission a little time to catch up (slushamatic) but that has nothing at all to do with the computer and the engine.
I suggest you drive a dealer demo M35x and see if it does the same thing you are experiencing.
I am starting to have the same problem, but my car has 75,000 miles. I noticed that no one replied, and I was wondering if you ever found the solution?
I assume that you are referring to the problem that shuts down all of my instrument panel when the outside ambient temperature is below 70F. I did contact the Infinity site and got a reply in about a week or so that asked me to describe my problem. So far, I have not had an answer after replying to their request. As a matter of interest, I had to spend over $1000 getting the fuel gage repaired. I was told by the Infinity dealer that my knock sensors were bad, but the independent shop that repaired the gage said the gage problem when repaired would turn off the service light. They were correct. I have lost all confidence in the dealer after they told me the cost would be $6000 to repair the panel, and they told me the knock sensors were bad. My car has 72,000 miles.
Infinity customer service called me this afternoon. The person was not a technical individual and had no answer except go back to the dealership. She advised me that there are no technical people except at dealerships. I find this hard to believe. Her call was a waste of time. I plan to sell the car sometime this summer and get a good old GM or Ford. Never have had this much trouble with either.
You might want to check out ripoffreport.com I think it is. I had the old heatshield/exhaust issue on two infinities. An 07 and 09, the 07 model they fixed after a year of complaining and the 09 was taking me down the same road. I searched and talked with dealers in other states, some acknowledged and other were not aware.. All in all, I think I refuse to buy another Infiniti car at this point.....Why are they good cars, because the one they test are given the proper attention.
I filed a report under there, consumer affairs and NTHSA. A :mad: fter going to arbitration and hearing the same issue, they still refuse to address the issue or acknowledge the sound even with the witness I had there.
I AM LOOKING AT PURCHASING A USED 2006 M35 WITH 60K, NAVIGATION, TECHNOLOGY, AND JOURNEY PACKAGE. IS THIS CAR RELIABLE ENOUGH TO SPEND 25K FOR. AND IS THE UPKEEP AND REPAIRS FREQUENT AND EXPENSIVE?
Yes. I have a 2006 M35x with 73,000 miles and the options you listed, which I bought new in 2005. It has performed just about flawlessly and I intend to keep it for several more years. There were some rattles in the sunroof but warranty fixed that. The upkeep is what you decide to do. The dealer's major service intervals can be expensive ($300-$400), but otherwise all I have had to do is replace the rear brakes. Regular oil and air filter changes and the 3.5L Nissan engine can go forever. The original tires (Goodyear RSA's) were lousy and I made the mistake of replacing them with Eagle F-1's, which wore unevenly and made terrible noise after only 22k miles. Goodyear replaced them for free and I chose their Response Edge tires which have been fantastic.
I have an M35x 2007 pearl. I enjoy the car and have been quite satisfied with the engine and interior. However there are a few downsides - not thrilled with cabin noise which might be improved based on the tire selections suggested in other posts. I've been happy with the dealer service although the prices are not competitive. However the one thing I advise most caution, from my experience, is the paint. I've noticed annoying little orange color spots that seem to leach through the paint. It's noticeable on the pearl white car I have and the dealer has no explanation. I've had the car garage kept and have really low miles (22k), but each time I wash the car I noticed these persistent spots. Some will rub out with enough elbow grease, but it's still strange.
We have a 2007 M35 w/ all the bells and whistles. Purchased this 2nd 2007 new after we crashed our first 2007, which also was new. We had 8600 miles on the totaled M35 and now have 61,000 on the other 2007. Just great cars. In January drove from Arizona to the Mayo Clinic in Minnesota - a difficult trip however, the M35 preformed just beautifully.
I have found a black on black 2006 M45 with 58K for 24k,it has everything in it,every option. Is this a good deal, and how do you tell if it is the sport package? What does the x on the back of the 35/45 mean.I have found that the engine noise is standard on both models.My wife will be driving about 35 miles each way, to and from work. She likes the power of a V8, I hate the gas consumption. Does the M45 take premium or regular. I am hoping to buy and be done with this long car search by Friday with your input and help. Sorry bout all the caps, bad habit.
The x means it's 4 wheel drive. The sports models almost all have a silver dash, but the sports also had 19" tires and the non sports had 18" tires. I'm not sure if you could even order an M35x/M45x as a sports model.
The original Goodyear RSA tires were awful...almost any other tire will be better on the car. Engine noise is a "feature".
One problem with the 2006 cars was the lack of adjustment on the passenger's seat which made the seat uncomfortable for passengers...fixed in 2007. There is a fix for the placement of the voice/bluetooth microphone which makes it work better. If there is a microphone above the drivers seat in the roof liner, it has the fix....if not, then it needs the fix...not sure if there will be a charge, most were fixed under warranty.
I had a 2006 M35, now a 2008 M35 and who knows what when the lease runs out.
The 35/45 comes as a power train consideration standard,with the sport package-19 inch wheels and stiffer suspension or as a X-rear wheel translates to all wheel drive.The 35 and 45 take premium gas,the 45 having about 1-2 less miles per gallon less,listed.I have a 2008 M45X with tech,adv.tech and premium-DVD back seat.The 45 really is very fast/lively,however I still average 22 miles to the gallon.The Goodyear RSA's are the worst. Make sure you chose something different when buying tires.Good Luck !.
Using regular in the M35 just feels like someone threw out an anchor. If you never merge onto a high-speed road, and only drive around in the cities, you may never notice. It does also retard the timing, and the mileage may not be the same (often less), so the actual cost per mile may not change much. I tried regular for a couple of tanks, and was not impressed for my typical driving. Your results may differ.
Since I am in superflat sw florida, I never have to deal with hills. I find that mileage on regular, plus and super is almost identical. Yes, I feel less power with regular, but most of the time I'm just loafing along in comfort getting mad at the navigation system...
I know what you saying and I share your thought. Shouldn't you get improved performance w/ higher octane gas? I have kept every receipt for 60k and have run the numbers over and over and I dumbfounded myself. The car just works. And, I agree, the nav system could be much better. If they keep locking me out of functions Infiniti might not get the next order.
This discussion is more about personal driving experiences and what you should expect from driving a car like the M. I enjoy and appreciate the difference between regular and premium, especially with me M. Again, it's a subjective perspective, but I don't mind paying the difference between 87 octane and 93 octane.
I had a 2005 Avalon Limited that recommended 92, but you could use 87 octane. When I used 87 octane, I felt the difference( lower ) in horse power and I also noticed that my MPG was lower with the 87 octane.
Again, it's a balance between the driving experience you want and what you are to pay.
Any M35 or M45 owners do own maintenance. Specifically change their own oil? Is there room so that one does not have to jack up the car to get to pan drain and oil filter? I do my own oil changes and in beginning stages of researching/purchasing an M.
I can get to the oil 'flap' acess without raising the car. It's tight, but doable. At least on my 35x, you take out two bolts, and a 4x10" or so flap can be opened that gives you access to the drain plug. What's more of a pain is that the oil filter is horizontal, and even after draining the oil, the anti-drain valve on the filter has it nearly full of oil, so it is hard to not have a mess when you loosen it to replace.
I've been using a synthetic oil in mine now for about 30K miles and testing it periodically. With my driving, Mobil 1 lasts a little over 10K miles before the test indicates it is starting to reach its limits. The most I've gone was about 11.2K, and the test said it was nearly depleted of it's acid neutralizing capabilities (but still good). The recommended oil/filter changes at 3750 are way too conservative unless you do mostly short trips, and even then, I think a good synthetic should last more than twice that. Testing would prove that, but I've not done it. I've recently retired, and my driving habits have changed, so I may need to reassess.
Many of the European cars come with synthetic from the factory and have a computer that monitors driving habits...they can often go in the high teens before the computer says to change the oil. My guess is, though, that they may have more oil in their crankcase than the Infiniti engine.
Thanks for the response. I am torn between getting an M (more likely an M45x) and giving up my 2001 740. I live in Cleveland so winters are not good with a RWD vehicle like my 740. Had a winter vehicle but that lease was turned in and I need to make a decision on whether I am going to keep the BMW or get something with AWD. Wife wants to go down to 2 cars and keep it that way.
My 740 has been a good car but it's getting up there in mileage (115K) and I am worried about maintenance costs as well. Would like to go to M due to reliability and performance. But I still cannot find anything that drives and rides like my 740.
I’ve been running AMSOIL for 7 years. Starting running Amsoil before they had a filter system that would run the life of the oil. Amsoil now has a filter that runs 25k or one year so now I change oil yearly and top-off as needed. Just replaced my 2009 oil in March of this year with 22k on it and it still looked very good. Used about 1.5 qts for top-off during the year. I have gone to all Amsoild fluids in our M35. We now have 63k on our 07. Just a grand car and I can’t say enough about there Amsoil products. We live in AZ and I run their 0-30 oil. Check their site out at: amsoil.com
I've never used Amsoil but have heard nothing but great things. I've always used Mobil 1 and have done changes at 7500 miles or yearly. Currently have a 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser with 123K miles that's on Mobil 1. My BMW requires synthetic. I had a 1993 Ford Explorer that went 230K miles and engine was still running great using Mobil 1.
Anyone ever done a total cost comparison between Mobil 1 and Amsoil (with yearly changes)?
When I had an M35X prior to 2/2009 I put on Conti Extremes. Very good. The current model is Exteme DWS. I put them on my wifes 2007 A4 3.2. Very aggressive tread for bad weather. Not a stiff tire. Very good price. They sold out and were back ordered this spring. New tire so I don't know how they hold up. How long do you plan to keep the car and what is your budget?
I suggest road hazard insurance if pot holes are common. Save me. She blew three tires. 2 on potholes and one hopping a curb-her fault.
My '06 M35 Sport came with the Bridgestone RE960s (not sure if they were OE or put on by the previous owner) but at 27,000 miles I found the tramlining unbearable. Since I live in SoCal I decided to put on the Michelin Pilot PS2 and have been amazed with their performance and improvement with the tramlining issue (pretty much unnoticeable).
Yes, the Pilots are very expensive but it is a great car and I prefer to have the best driving experience possible. No regrets here.
Interesting. Everyone else here seems to have tramlining problems with '06 M fitted with G/year RSAs. I have an '07 and did not experience tramlining with the oem RSAs. At about 25k I replaced the worn out RSAs with B/stone RE-960s. Better wet & dry grip and now 46k and 40% treadlife remaining. I think the '06 had an issue with the steering gear, but good for you if the Pilots solved your problems!
I bought a 2007 m35journey two months ago...had a warranty check done and complained about tramlining thinking/hoping I'd get new steering arms...it had 25k miles and oem goodyear rsa's on it...they checked and said steering arms okay, suggested I put new rubber on it and dealer matched price from discount tire. I put Michelin primacy's on it and have noticed a significant difference in ride and noise...happy with the purchase. Austin Infiniti also did a four wheel alignment at no charge.
The primacy MXV4'S? I have a 2008 M45X,same issue,too loud and it follows all of the road imperfections. I have ordered four Primacy MXV4, and I hope it will resolve the issue's.I have 25,000 miles on the vehicle with the RSA's.Worthless tire !
Just wondering if you guys take your cars to the dealer (who can be quite expensive) or another reputable place for your things such as tune up, oil maintenance and such?
Thinking of maybe leasing a M37 in the next couple months. Does anyone know if there has been any problems with the 2011 M37 tramlining? Thanks in advance.
I've had my 2010 M35 since November. Its in the shop for the 2nd time (will be a total of 10 days) already trying to figure out and correct the issue. For a brand new $50K plus car, this is absurd. The first time they put some foam above the dashboard - this time apparently they need to keep the car for 5 days and they can't tell me why. On top of that they give me a filthy G35 as a loaner - I think with the car being in the shop this long already for this type of problem, I should be given a much better loaner.
The rattling noise is quite annoying and even with blasting the radio you still hear it. Anyone else have this problem?
Comments
Recently had front and rear brakes done at 45,000 miles using ceramic brake pads.
Dealer wanted about $275 for rear brakes alone while local shop where have been going for years asked about $375 for both front and rear with ceramic pads.
As I drove away from shop I felt had to apply a little more pressure to brake peddle compared to before having new brakes done. Seemed ok, however. The next morning as I started to back out of my garage and down a little incline, I applied brakes to keep the back out out/down driveway slow. The brakes did not take hold, however, and I had to push peddle all the way to floor before they kicked in. Very upsetting! I proceeded to drive and everything seemed fine, brakewise, and no problem for rest of day.
The next morning my wife took my M35 and proceeded to back out of driveway and same brake fad occurred. When she drove on straight away it was fine. I called brake guy and he said to bring it in.
The third day and thereafter, backing out of the driveway was fine and normal and the fad while backing out of driveway has not happened again.
Brought car in to brake guy and he hoisted it on rack and checked each tire's brake line for leakage and found nothing. Checked brake fluid under hood and it showed full. He stated he could not understand what caused the problem backing out of driveway on first two days and everything looked fine to him.
Any opinions or suggestions as to what caused fad on backing out of driveway on the first two days after i had the brakes done???? Have not had any problems since and they feel ok. now. Opinions please. Thanks!!
I suggest you drive a dealer demo M35x and see if it does the same thing you are experiencing.
I filed a report under there, consumer affairs and NTHSA. A :mad: fter going to arbitration and hearing the same issue, they still refuse to address the issue or acknowledge the sound even with the witness I had there.
The original Goodyear RSA tires were awful...almost any other tire will be better on the car. Engine noise is a "feature".
One problem with the 2006 cars was the lack of adjustment on the passenger's seat which made the seat uncomfortable for passengers...fixed in 2007. There is a fix for the placement of the voice/bluetooth microphone which makes it work better. If there is a microphone above the drivers seat in the roof liner, it has the fix....if not, then it needs the fix...not sure if there will be a charge, most were fixed under warranty.
I had a 2006 M35, now a 2008 M35 and who knows what when the lease runs out.
run the numbers over and over and I dumbfounded myself. The car just works. And, I agree, the nav system could be much better. If they keep locking me out of functions Infiniti might not get the next order.
I had a 2005 Avalon Limited that recommended 92, but you could use 87 octane. When I used 87 octane, I felt the difference( lower ) in horse power and I also noticed that my MPG was lower with the 87 octane.
Again, it's a balance between the driving experience you want and what you are to pay.
I've been using a synthetic oil in mine now for about 30K miles and testing it periodically. With my driving, Mobil 1 lasts a little over 10K miles before the test indicates it is starting to reach its limits. The most I've gone was about 11.2K, and the test said it was nearly depleted of it's acid neutralizing capabilities (but still good). The recommended oil/filter changes at 3750 are way too conservative unless you do mostly short trips, and even then, I think a good synthetic should last more than twice that. Testing would prove that, but I've not done it. I've recently retired, and my driving habits have changed, so I may need to reassess.
Many of the European cars come with synthetic from the factory and have a computer that monitors driving habits...they can often go in the high teens before the computer says to change the oil. My guess is, though, that they may have more oil in their crankcase than the Infiniti engine.
My 740 has been a good car but it's getting up there in mileage (115K) and I am worried about maintenance costs as well. Would like to go to M due to reliability and performance. But I still cannot find anything that drives and rides like my 740.
I’ve been running AMSOIL for 7 years. Starting running Amsoil before they had a filter system that would run the life of the oil. Amsoil now has a filter that runs 25k or one year so now I change oil yearly and top-off as needed. Just replaced my 2009 oil in March of this year with 22k on it and it still looked very good. Used about 1.5 qts for top-off during the year. I have gone to all Amsoild fluids in our M35. We now have 63k on our 07. Just a grand car and I can’t say enough about there Amsoil products. We live in AZ and I run their 0-30 oil.
Check their site out at: amsoil.com
Anyone ever done a total cost comparison between Mobil 1 and Amsoil (with yearly changes)?
Bridgestone = good tire/excellent value
Can't go wrong with a set of B'stone RE 960's. Put these on my '07 M35 18 mos ago replacing oem G/year RSAs - couldn't be happier.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Potenza+R- E960AS+Pole+Position&partnum=445WR8RE960PPXL&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes- &autoMake=Infiniti&autoYear=2007&autoModel=M35 Sedan&autoModClar=Rear Wheel Drive
I suggest road hazard insurance if pot holes are common. Save me. She blew three tires. 2 on potholes and one hopping a curb-her fault.
Yes, the Pilots are very expensive but it is a great car and I prefer to have the best driving experience possible. No regrets here.
The rattling noise is quite annoying and even with blasting the radio you still hear it. Anyone else have this problem?