Ford Freestyle Maintenance and Repair

pookie5

I have a 2006 Freestyle, Limited, with approx. 2K miles.
It occasionally will not start with the key, (dash lights /radio come on, engine does not turn over),but can be started with the remote starter. It happens several times a week. The dealer has not been able to diagnose the problem. I have tried both keys and neither one will start the car (keys have been re-programmed by dealer). Once it starts, the car is fine until it happens again (usually in a couple of days).
Has anyone had this problem, or have any ideas where the root of the trouble might be?
Thanks for any help.

lumber2

Best guess is that when they cut the wires to install the remote sensor one wire is loose

If the install looks good, remove the remote starter

saabturboid

I second the remote starter as the problem. Even though the car can be started with the remote starter it is likely interfering with the standard starting of the vehicle. I have known several people with aftermarket remote starters and they all eventually have issues with shorts, and/or starting problems.

Personally, I choose to stay away from remote starters for this reason and the thought that the car can accidentally be started in my garage without my knowledge. I have two young kids who I could easily see doing this by playing with the key fobs.

- Chad

puckyhuddle

I had the same problem. Had the car in twice and the service guys could not detect any problem. The service manager suggested he drive the car with me. He drove the car and didn't notice anything. I drove it and he could see the steering wheel vibrate back and forth on stops. They changed the front rotors and have had no problems since. The key was to figure out what braking behavior created the problem, since it didn't happen under all conditions. For me, it was a gradual stop with light pressure. Seemed to be more noticable when car was going between 30 - 40 mph. Good luck!

angeliz

Toady my Freestyle was not particularly responsive to my key fob. It unlocked the driver door but not the other doors. Then as I was driving the turn signals were rapid. I checked, all signal lamps are working. I would not think this was related BUT this happened before, a couple months ago. Then the fob locked the doors when I got out, but would not arm the alarm with the second push of the button. I had to use the code to get in because the fob would not work at all when I wanted to get back in. An hour later, everything is working fine, all symptoms have disappeared, even the rapid signals are back to normal. The fob is working just fine now. Locks, unlocks, alarms, etc. Anyone else have this experience?

bruneau1

I had the same problem until I discovered what i was doing wrong. Measure when the car has been sitting for some time and do not wipe off the stick when withdrawing it. I was wiping it off and putting it back to measure as I always have with other cars. All that did was smear up the stick and made an accurate reading difficult.

stevedebi

Thanks to all for their replies. I was used to Honda's, which have a direct line to the oil pan and won't smear at all.

I checked it this AM before lunch. I was able to pull the stick, clean it, re-insert and then remove it to check the oil (full, and still clean looking at 3100 miles).

vicenac

"Then as I was driving the turn signals were rapid"
I had exactly the same problem a few times. It went away as it came. I thought the back-up sensor installation 9aftermarket at a Ford Dealer) was to blame and I asked for a diagnostic. Nothing seemed out of order. It seems to me that it does it after cold humid weather followed by hot weather (rapid change), but I'm not sure.
Thanks for posting this. I'll take it to my dealer (if it makes a difference).

vicenac

It's back!
Thanks for the advice with the fluctuating RPM! The dealer re-flashed the computer. I get about 3 MPG better then before and fluctuating RPM that I mentioned in a previous post (when changing to N while vehicle in motion) is barely noticeable now.
The cracking noise from the steering is gone. The mechanic said that he never heard it and thus he never fixed anything. He checked the vehicle after the 5.000 miles check-up was done. In the process they also measured the break pads, which might include some cleaning. So probably the noise was caused by breaks.
Big surprise - the oil life was reset to 100%. They're learning!

pokerdrome

I purchased a spare key on E-bay for 15.99 and it came with programming instructions. However, you need the other two keys to program the new one.

schreinerdavid

the last two times I turned on my car. the message board below the speedometer read "small circles to calibrate". What does this mean? The first trip I was on last over 30 minutes and the message went away after about 15 minutes and then showed the odometer and compass setting (all other setting worked fine). The second trip was two short 5 minute hops, and the message did not go away (even after restarting the car).

stevedebi

This message indicates that the on-board compass needs to be calibrated. This is done by finding a large parking lot and turning the vehicle in 360 circles a couple of times. This allows the compass to pick up the correct headings.

The compass descriptions start on page 81 of the user's manual; the "circles" explanation is on page 83.

If the message persists after calibration, there may be a malfunction in the compass hardware.

msfreestyle

When my Freestyle turned over 10,000 miles recently, the odometer no longer shows the tenths. It is whole miles only. This really bugs me, and I don't think I have ever driven a car that does not show tenths.
Also is Ford still making the Freestyle? I have been told they are not.

stevedebi

"When my Freestyle turned over 10,000 miles recently, the odometer no longer shows the tenths. It is whole miles only. This really bugs me, and I don't think I have ever driven a car that does not show tenths.
Also is Ford still making the Freestyle? I have been told they are not."

Freestyle is still being produced. They will switch over to 2007 models in late summer, I think.

You must have an SE? My SEL has never had tenths in the odometer; the trip computer shows tenths in the "miles traveled" display. It is very rare to have any modern car show tenths in the odometer; it is always the trip meter that shows the tenths.

nibyak

I checked this on the drive home last night. My 2006 SE shows the tenths on both the Tripometer and the Odometer. It has over 12,000 miles on it. :confuse:

pnewby

Mine lost the tenths at 10k also, '05 Limited, now have 19k and still love the car/truck/suv/sw/cuv. I just wish the doors didn't show marks quite so easily. Needs a bump strip or something.

nitromax

Just got my car back from the body shop for some minor scratch rework. Don't ask....it's the wifes car. :P

Anyways, I was told that the right rear tail light assembly had water in it and the water was also going into the body of the car (through the tailight assembly)

I've been planning on bringing it in for it's scheduled service anyways so I'll have them take a look at it.

so....check your taillights for water...possibly a defective gasket on ours but who knows.

jrtexas

Hmmm. My odometer reads 18696.4

Must be a computer glitch...

dgulino

I have a 2005 SE built in late '04 and purchased by me in June '05. It has over 20,000 miles on it now, and it has always shown the tenths position on the odometer. I had read that the tenths would disappear after the car turned 10,000 miles because the left-most digit would be needed for the ten-thousands place. But that didn't happen.

stevedebi

Oops, do I feel bad.

My SEL DOES show tenths. I am at only 2599.4 at the moment, so I don't know what will happen after 10K. I simply never noticed the tenths on the odometer; I always use the trip meter.

bobw3

I think if you have the trip computer it will not show tenths after 10K miles, but if you don't have the trip computer, like me, you'll see the tenths forever.

stmss

My 'wrench' light has come on a few times (3-4) over the last few months normally after some hard acceleration (merging). On all occasions it has gone off after turning the car off and did not relight again. It is not reliably repeatable and the first time it was brought to the dealers attention they said no problems could be found as the system is not showing any problems - read - light not on? Since the problem was intermittent and not affecting driving the car, and the dealer couldn't/wouldn't diagnose it anyway, I have left it.

Today the light was back on. This time, about 30 minutes later, the car had a temporary acceleration delay after a stop light(almost like trying to drive away in neutral or like the transmission severely slipping)- car reved up but no go. After about 5-10 seconds, kicked (actually more like a gently slide) into gear and off I went.

Coincindentally, I have a service appointment tomorrow. Anybody else ran into this? Is this a programming thing or something more serious? I suspect tomorrow morning my light will no longer be on.

oldgwth

I have had the delay for 2-3 seconds a few times but no wrench light. Would be very interested in what you find out at the dealer. Mine told me that since we drive by wire the "computer" pcm? will some times cause a delay to make sure all inputs are recognized. On next service I am going to discuss it again. Thanks

vicenac

It sounds like a bunch of hot air from a dealer who does not want to check. I feel for them cause the procedures that they have for diagnostic do not reveal anything wrong.

pietro

Was driving my '05 Freestyle tonite and all the lights flashed a few times on my dashboard. Then all the gauges dropped to the bottom and went back up several times. Did not lose power and car handled fine.
Anyone else experience this and if so, what happened?

stmss

Dealer has diagnosed transmission problem as a faulty mechatronic unit and has ordered a new one. I don't know what it is, the service rep who gave me back my car could not even pronounce it. Sounds like it converts some electronic signal to mechanical action?

The wrench light was not on so this was obviously not required to diagnose as I was first told. Code was 2765-20 if that is any use to anyone.

oldgwth

Thanks for the info and I hope that takes care of your problem. Since I never got a light it may not of set a code but will discuss it on my next service. Thanks again.

smorrow

I have been having the same problem for the past five months.
They have replaced
Alternator -
Dash Cluster - After waiting three hours it had the wrong odometer reading
Replaced Dash Cluster Again - Replaced with wrong year Dash Cluster
Adjusted some plugs and I picked up today - Can't wait to see if its fixed
They have had my car for apprx. 27 days so far and apparently they are baffled.
Good Luck in getting your Dealer to figure it out, since I don't think they will.

vrichardson

We bought our 2005 freestyle limited in march of 2005, since we purchased it we have had 4 alignments. One at 7,052 miles(7/15/05),one at 9897 miles(9/8/05) another at 11,969 miles(10/5/05) and 21,618 miles(5/5/06) At the 7/15/05 appt. they put 4 brand new pirelli tires on my freestyle. Now the tires are getting worn off again. the car wants to pull to the right. They say the have looked everything over and have no idea what is wrong :confuse: anyone have any ideas what it might be? anyone having the same problem?

passat_2002

Almost surely the tires then. It's whats known as a "radial" pull. Probably only one of the four tires is causing the problem. You can rotate and re-balance the tires till the cows come home, and you won't be able to get rid of the problem. I'd take it up with Pirelli.

pietro

I had the car in the shop on Friday, May 5th. They put it on the computer and checked all the connections and could not find anything. The thought was maybe due to the heavy rain. They found mud and water on the engine? I don't run through mud puddles or go off roading!

Took the car out of town for the weekend and it did it again today (5/7).

I was assured the car was safe to run...

wooly1

Had a similar problem with car hesitating at light after hard run. Car simply sat there as if in neutral. Eventually did move. End result was that mileage (according to mileage computer) is dropping. Seems to get worse mileage at highway speeds than in town (mileage dropped from 25 mpg on highway to 19 mpg with overall now at 20.8). Took car to dealer couple of times to check but got run-around. Dealer even said that the mileage was normal. Transmission definitly seems to slip when cold. Have scheduled yet another dealer appointment with the transmission as the only issue.

volfangary

Please keep us updated!

bruneau1

you need a different dealer, if one is available. I stopped going to the selling dealer because of incompetent service.

tomstar

I purchased a 06 se with the light colored plastic dash. the glare was annoying. I fixed the problem with a cover from dashmat.com. It fits almost perfect and has flap cover for storage comp and airbag also. so it covers 90% of the glare problems. You will still see line from the edges of the flap covers and the reflection from the windshield vents but it solved the problem for me. Have almost 3000 miles and no problems so far. Been on trip to mountains and it did well. Best miles before mountains was 28mpg tank. In mountains got 25mpg. Around town maybe 20-22 mpg. I am a conservative driver.

The CVT is different, sometimes acts like a speed control when entering low grade inclines .. interesting. Will get an ESP plan though just for the transmission.

bruneau1

Yes, the CVT does behave a little like a cruise control. When you use the actual cruise, it is the most stable system I have ever used. I continue to have nothing but good feelings about the CVT.

pierresardain

Ever since the first mile I drive on my 05 SEL AWD Freestyle, I have heard this very annoying squeaky noise (that lasts as long as it takes to say "squeak") when the A/C is on.
It is a loud squeak that occurs every 20-25 seconds when the car is rolling at a constant speed (whatever the speed), it can occur even more frequently when the car accelerates.
The squeak is audible from the inside all doors and windows closed but it is much louder from the outside, it seems to be coming from the bottom of the car, maybe more from the back...
It only occurs if the car is actually rolling, not when idle or stopped at a red light.
My dealer has been ignoring my complaints so far (can't hear, no fix possible, not a big deal etc.) and I wish someone could tell me more about what may be happening so I could relay it to them again.
Thanks for any help you can contribute, this is driving me nuts! :mad:

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like either a loose AC belt or a defective AC belt "idler pulley bearing". Neither is a very big deal.

joemilx

There is a very recent TSB on Freestyle instrument panel problems. Mine is currently in the shop awaiting a new panel. When mine failed in the daytime, the wrench and airbag warning lights came on, the info display blanked out, and the gauges dropped and twitched a few times. The a/c also turned off. When I restarted, it was OK except that the trip meter was reset. It failed again on the way to the dealership for service.

Per my service rep (who actually knows which way to turn a wrench), the TSB describes exactly that scenario. No hassle with getting a warranty replacement. Good luck!

pierresardain

Thanks for your post!
Is this consistent with the noise occuring every 20 to 25 seconds or more frequently when accelerating? or only occuring when the wheels are in motion?
Thanks again!

Mr_Shiftright

No it doesn't have to be with the wheels in motion, and woujld be more frequent with acceleration. If it has a random quality to it that is not tied to acceleration, then I would suspect the idler pulley or perhaps even the clutch on the AC compressor. I presume this squeak only occurs with the AC on.

pierresardain

Yes it only occurs when the AC is on AND when the wheels are in motion. At constant speeds (like on a highway) it is every 20 to 25 seconds, whereas it becomes more random with multiple accelerations (like in city traffic).
I will show this thread to my Ford dealer and I will ask them to check these parts.
Thanks again!

jeffdex1

Am driving a 2005 SEL w/AWD and really do like the vehicle -- except for the audio system. The "Limited" offers an optional "Audiophile" sound system. Is anyone aware if the same head unit [6 CD changer w/MP3 capability] is used in the Audiophile system?

Also - I would appreciate suggestions for upgrading this system -- where should I turn? Would additional/replacement speakers make a noticeable difference in sounds quality?

It seems as though one really has to use elevated volume levels to achieve any kind of acceptable sound.

Thanks for your insights...

-Jeff

bruneau1

The least expensive and most effective way to improve that system is to add on a subwoofer which will allow you to use less bass on the existing speakers and give more reserve from the Ford unit. I did this in my Marquis and it worked very well. Replacing the existing speakers will not do much. I bought a little Kenwood unit from Crutchfield which has bass volume, phase, and crossover controls. It would be wired in with the back speakers. A local installer did it for me. The only other avenue would be to replace the Ford unit in the dash. I am sure you don't want to do that. The Limited system has a subwoofer as part of the system.

freealfas

Replacing speakers would actually be the single best option in pursuit improved sound quality. A system with a sub and factory speakers is not going to be that big of an improvement as you will still run into the limits of the speakers you have. There are any number of speakers and price points available for purchase. The Crutchfield site is a good one for guidance and suggestions and it will even filter products that will fit in your FS making the decisions a little easier. It would be best to go to a real store to audition anything you might be considering for purchase and then search the internet for your best deal. With the nature of audio being personal and subjective it just comes down to you deciding what you are trying to accomplish and purchasing accordingly.

barnstormer64

It seems as though one really has to use elevated volume levels to achieve any kind of acceptable sound.

I don't know how (in)efficient the Ford speakers are, but if you can buy some replacement speakers that are more efficient, you'll be able to get more volume out of them without cranking up the volume-control as much.

bruneau1

I don't think this is good advice, since the power of the Ford amplifier will still be the same, and in order to get some bass, the bass control has to be turned up high and that uses up valuable watts which could be used to play at higher volume. You could buy new speakers, but you still will have limited bass and amplifier power, not to mention installation matters, and potential incompatibility. The Kenwood subwoofer I have is powered and available at some local dealers. It's a sweet unit and can be taken out when you sell the Freestyle. It can be placed anywhere in the vehicle and doesn't require any cutting into panels..

fordwrench

I am a ford tech & have fixed this concern before. The problem is in the rear a/c expansion valve. Have the dealer replace the expansion valve, there is a revised part # meaning an updated part quite possibly for the noise concern.

byrdsbyrds

I would love to know what TSB this is. I am getting the same mileage on my 2006. What did they repair, replace, reprogram or re-do??
My only other problem (at 2K miles) was a missing insulator in the roof where it meets the rear hatch.
Many thanks for any info re: the mileage thing.

joemilx

Dealer replaced instrument cluster and all is well. He referenced TSB 060602. Elapsed time from problem to fix was under 36 hours, including parts order and delivery. My Ford service facility has been exceptionally good. Keeping my fingers crossed.