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Ford Freestyle Maintenance and Repair



  • blue05blue05 Posts: 42
    I just read some of the reviews at on other people experiences with the Pirelli P6 some good alot not so good. You have over 200 reviews to read from .
  • stmssstmss Posts: 206
    people experiences with the Pirelli P6 some good alot not so good

    You get the same reviews with most tires - there is lots of reviews ranging from the worst tire ever built to the best - it is certainly not limited to the P6

    I have the P6 on the Freestyle and our Volvo. Both develop flat spots when sitting and need a few miles to warm up and straighten out - then okay.
  • blue05blue05 Posts: 42
    I look for better quality in a high performance tire not mediocre . If this was a touring or an economy tire my expectations would be less .
  • stmssstmss Posts: 206
    Don't misunderstand, I am not defending the P6. I backed into both my sets by default - one set came with the Freestyle, the other were a warranty replacement on Continentals. They would not be my first choice.

    I would not consider the P6 a high performance tire but they are not economy or touring either - somewhere between.
  • I notice a sound like running water on the drivers side behind the dash on my 05 SE, only on cold starts. I'm assuming it's coolant flushing through the system. Is this normal? Had a similar, more pronounced sound on a Jeep, and it turned out to be a kink in the cooling system which let to overheating problems. Thanks.
  • I recently purchased a 2005 Freestyle fwd and it has 2 problems. The first is brake shudder which I understand there is a TSB out and the dealer will fix. The second and most perplexing is a whine most noticeable at low speeds and reverse apparently from the cvt. It sounds a little like I have a miniature supercharger. The service tech says that the belt drive in the cvt could be the cause and that it is normal to have some noise. No one else seems to have this problems as I have looked through all the posted problems in this forum. I would like it corrected and some advice from this board as to what the problem is?
  • Your service tech is probably correct. A CVT makes a different sound than the conventional trany that you're probably used to. It just takes a little getting used to. A lion sounds different than a tiger.. No?
  • How loud is this "whine"?

    If I don't have the stereo on, I will sometimes notice a faint "whine" (probably from the CVT) in reverse, and at very low speeds.

    I think it's normal, and I typically don't notice it (since a radio at even minimal volume will cover it up).
  • My wife just called me at work telling me that she has the following message on the info center of the dash "3% oil level change soon". The oil was just changed 2 weeks ago and she checked the oil level and appears to be fine. Car just went over 5000 miles earlier this weekend currently at 5073. Is this just a message or should there be a concern?
  • bruneau1bruneau1 Posts: 468
    All Ford CVTs have a little whine, and this is normal. But when road testing different Freestyles, I did come across one that had very loud whine. Ours (FWD) is pretty quiet as far as whine, but it is there and doesn't bother me. The CVT has an intricate alloy chain and not a belt. This may be the source of the whine, but this type of chain is far better than some belts used in previous CVTs in terms of durability and slippage.
  • " Is this just a message or should there be a concern? " Reply to vthockey: When you change the oil, you have to manually reset the oil percentage monitor/warning. Its in the owner's manual, but if I remember right, you poke the odomoter button until you see the oil monitor, and then hold the button down until you see it reset to "0%". It keeps track of time or mileage. GM vehicles have a better oil life monitor system that considers time, mileage, and driving conditions that stress oil as well.
  • "3% oil level change soon".

    I believe what it actually says is "3% Oil Life Change Soon". Somebody obviously didn't reset the oil life monitor when your oil was changed. The reset procedure is on page 86 of the owner's manual. Very simple to do.
  • "...until you see it reset to "0%"

    I believe you mean 100%.

    The Freestyle's oil life monitor does indeed take into account the time the engine is running and length of individual trip. Most of my driving is short distance. That's why my monitor recommends a change after only about 2900 miles.
  • Speaking of CVT durability what is the life expectancy of our CVT transmissions? I put a lot of miles on my vehicles and am curious how long these things are expected to last. I've got 170,000 miles on my other car with the original tranny and am curious what to expect with the CVT.

    - Chad
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    Help me out
    A while ago my wife had trouble getting in the car on hot day. She had to let the car sit for 5 min, then the doors unlocked. It happened a few times. We took car in - they did not find anything wrong with the car, but insisted in reprogramming both fobs. I also told them that sometimes the blinkers blink very fast - again - they could not duplicate.
    Now, after 2 months it does it again, and I noticed that when the turn lights blink fast the locking system does not work. You have to click on the fobs three or four times to lock or unlock. The keypad on the door locks the doors normally.
    Any ideas?


  • I think you need Inspector Clouseau for this one.
  • How long do CVTs last? Supposedly, the engineers target a life of about 100,000 miles, but I don't think anybody has any idea. Very unknown, actually.
  • cmunizcmuniz Posts: 604
    Fast blinker usually indicates a burned out bulb on whichever side is blinking fast. If both sides are blinking fast it probably indicates an electrical short in the system and since the FOBs are acting up, too I would have the technicians find a common component between the two systems - that is the most likely suspect.

    The short could be caused by either heat or moisture making it appear intermitent or random.
  • bobw3bobw3 Posts: 2,992
    Supposedly, the engineers target a life of about 100,000 miles

    Where did you get this information?
  • This is an update. We went to Fort Worth this morning for the arbitration meeting with Ford, BBB and ourselves. Ford was supposed to take part by phone but fell to call. In the place of the phone they sent their reply by mail. They didn't want to be present for the questions we had. Even though the dealership had told me that they could NOT fix it, Ford's reply by mail was that they had done what was needed and it is fixed. That was all they had to say by mail. My Freestyle still has the same squeaks and s quakes going over bumps.
  • Replying to bobw3: "Supposedly, the engineers target a life of about 100,000 miles Where did you get this information?"

    I'm an engineer, albeit aerospace/mechanical/software, I have met several GM and Chrysler, and professor, engineers, and SAE tech articles, over the last 26 years, that state the design goal of 100k miles. It is a goal, and depending on how hard the vehicle lives its life, will more or less be met. Seems like transmissions really nail that 100k goal on average.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    Car census shows vehicles living longer (CNNMoney)

    Today's WSJ has a longer article if you have access to it. Things must be lasting longer; the dealers are complaining about doing less warranty work and thus earning less income.

    According to that article, drivers can now expect 152,000 miles from their cars, and 180,000 miles from light trucks (pickups, SUVs and minivans). And that's 5 year old data.

    Repair frequency isn't broken down, but not all those old cars have needed new transmissions. For those of us who tend to lump cars in with appliances, it's good news.

    Steve, Host
  • ebledyebledy Posts: 1
    I am so frustrated with my Freestyle right now. My car has been sporatically chugging, almost dieing about once a week, mostly when the car is still warming up. I will be at stop sign and push on the gas to get through an interstection and it will chug chug chug even when I am pushing all the way down on the gas. Ford won't fix it unless it does the same thing to them while one the technician is driving it. Of course it won't do it and I feel like my family could be in danger if this keeps happening? Anyone have any suggestions?

    Erin :lemon:
  • passat_2002passat_2002 Posts: 468
    This is drastically abnormal but could be something as easy to explain as bad or contaminated gasoline or clogged fuel filter. I assume your Ford dealer takes this seriously and has read all stored codes that the OBD computer would have stored. Try changing your source of fuel to see if that helps. Suggest that the dealer check the fuel filter and ask if they have hooked up to read all stored OBD codes.
  • min1min1 Posts: 20
    I took my Freestyle in to the Ford dealership yesterday to get squealing back brakes replaced. They had replaced the pads and the bolts that held them to the caliper, but they still said it was squealing, so they ordered new rotors also and had me come back today to have them put on. They seem to think the problem was solved, but as I was pulling away and came to a stoplight, they squealed again. It does not happen under all conditions. It seems to happen when the brakes are about half way engaged. Not lightly or too heavy, just a firm middle of the road application of them seems to make them squeal. And only if the speed is about 40mph or over. I'm not sure if I need to give these brakes a bit of a breaking in period, or if they should be squeal free right off the bat. When I got back in there was an additional 20miles on the odometer, so I assume that they did drive it afterward and probably noticed the squeal, but didn't want to say anything. I've had bad luck with brakes in the past with my Neon and my Impala, so I'd really like to have problem free brakes for a change. Quite annoying.
    Anyway, if anyone has had any similar experience, or knows why these brand new brakes would be squealing, please let me know. Also if this is the sort of thing that Ford should be on the hook to fix.
    Thanks for everyone's input. Always very valuable.
  • ghodgesghodges Posts: 15
    I feel for you. Ford will try to get out your problem by saying it don't act up with them. I know I've been going around and around with them. If they don't help you go to these folks or call, that is what they are for.
    BBB Auto Line
    4200 Wilson Blvd., Suite 800
    Arlington, VA 22203-1838
    Ph. # 1-800-955-5100
    If Ford doesn't do right by you they will hold a arbitration meeting. Ford fell to show up at mine.
  • coldcrankercoldcranker Posts: 877
    I agree with trying to see what OBDII codes are being stored. (Autozone auto parts stores will read those for free in Colorado, and possibly nationwide.) Actually, your problem sounds like low-rpm EGR valve opening to me. I've seen this before. Basically, the EGR valve is supposed to only open above 1800 rpm or so. If the EGR valve opens at too low an rpm, then it makes the engine chug or possibly quit.
  • cmunizcmuniz Posts: 604
    Since it happens when it's warming up, another thought would be to leave it with the dealer overnight so they can drive under the same conditions that you do when it happens.
  • lomaloma Posts: 1
    I have a new 2005 Freestyle Limited with 8k miles. The other day it lost all power - would run at around 5k rpm to go up a hill at 25 mph. The Ford dealer has had it now for 3 days - and expects it another 3 or more. It needs some sort of new coils, sparkplugs, gaskets, and now a powertrain control module. It sounded like a tank when it ran - and smelled like rotten eggs. Sounds similar to your problem????
  • styxfsstyxfs Posts: 7
    On level ground or on a very slight uphill grade, we can feel, and hear, a slight pulsating in the speed of the car. This has happened a couple times in the 4 months we have had our new 2006 Freestyle. It's a rhythmic pulsating, about 1 or 2 times a second, with a speed increase or decrease of less that a 1/2 mph. So it is very hard to notice. It continues until I push the gas a little harder, or release the gas pedal. It has happened with or without the cruise control engaged. At speeds around 45 to 70 mph. I am worried that the CVT and computer are having problems. I have read many listings about having the CVT re-programmed. Has anyone else noticed this.
  • rick2456rick2456 Posts: 320
    Most are lazy. You ever notice what a service tech is doing when not working on a vehicle? Goofing off of course.
  • rick2456rick2456 Posts: 320
    I finally decided to go ahead and buy the Freestyle. I have been an SUV ([non-permissible content removed]) owner for the most part and haven't owned a Ford since 1970 (Maverick). I bought a left over 05 SEL AWD (65 miles) pretty much optioned out. My main fear with this vehicle is the poor warranty. Especially compared to Hyundai and Isuzu. With all the problems noted on this board, I sprung for the extended warranty just in case ($995). As this also includes a rental, one major breakdown would more than pay for it. So far so good. My only minor complaint would be engine noise, but i knew that going in. Hopefully, my faith in buying american for the first time since 1978 will not be a bad experience. Time will tell, huh?
  • barnstormer64barnstormer64 Posts: 1,106
    haven't owned a Ford since 1970 (Maverick).

    Mine was a '73 baby blue, 3-in-the-three, 2-door Maverick.

    Bought used, complete with a ding in the right-rear quarter panel.

    My first vehicle, and cost me less than a grand.

    Awwww, what memories. Especially when the clutch decided to go out. What a day that was.

    You'll enjoy the new vehicle. Ford has improved a LOT since that time.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Most are lazy.

    I doubt that. One cannot draw valid conclusions from only a few observations.

    tidester, host
  • rick2456rick2456 Posts: 320
    Thanks, mine was a 70 sky blue 2 door 3 on the column. Paid 900 for it and sold it for 400 in 79. Only had to replace the water pump ($20). If this one holds up half as well, I will be happy.
  • jtxjtx Posts: 1
    same problem in texas. appt with dealer wednesday. mine has hard to provoke, but it seems that if you slowly reverse up a steep incline (like my driveway), it is easy to replicate.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    We have high curbs in my neighborhood, and the right hand doors tend to catch the grass. That isn't so bad, but the rear door managed to pull the cladding out a little near the rear at the bottom. I can push it back in, but it doesn't stay very well. I intend to go back to the dealer and see if they can push it in or re-attach it, but it is annoying. This is the only thing I don't like about the FS - I wish it had about 1 more inch of ground clearance.

    Anyone else had the cladding pop out in one corner?
  • bruneau1bruneau1 Posts: 468
    Are you blaming the car for your badly designed curbs?
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "Are you blaming the car for your badly designed curbs?"

    The curbs are not "badly designed" - in 1952 the cars were that far off of the ground.

    It is not the curbs - otherwise why did only the rear cladding partially detach? I think it wasn't properly attached in the first place. I don't object to the car doors hitting the grass (not the curb), but the cladding shouldn't catch like that.
  • silbearsilbear Posts: 3
    Re the growl at low speeds and whine at higher speeds. I have over 2000 miles on the car now. I visited Palm Desert, CA. last week and took the car to Palm Springs Motors to have the rear brake shudder corrected and asked them to road test the car for low speed growl and higher speed whine. They felt the problem is in the differential, but they couldn't work on the car for 2 weeks. I can deal with the slight whine that I get from the chain but there is something in addition making a unpleasant noise at low speeds when you are not accelerating.
  • ghodgesghodges Posts: 15
    Mine did the same thing in Sherman, TX. They had to reset the program. I've heard of several others doing the same. that was just one of my miner problems. Ford has never fixed my Freestyle and I just today traded it off to get away from it, the worse auto I've ever owned, and I've been trading every since 1966 every two or three years.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "Ford has never fixed my Freestyle and I just today traded it off to get away from it, the worse auto I've ever owned, and I've been trading every since 1966 every two or three years."

    Maybe I missed your previous posts, could you list your problems?
  • ghodgesghodges Posts: 15
    I hope you have good luck with yours. I just traded mine with 15,000 miles on it to get away from it. I've traded since 1966 every two or three years and that was the worse auto I've ever owned. I even went to arbitration with it, through BBB Auto Line, for nothing. But, you can bet, I didn't buy a Ford or again.
  • ghodgesghodges Posts: 15
    On my 05' Freestyle I had (A) Alt. went out on a Sunday night out in the country (at 8,000 mioles). (B) Squeak in steering wheel. (C) grind on a hard right or left. (D) brake cable work. (E) Squeaking going over speed bumps (slow) in the front and rear. (F) a noise in the right rear wheel (for a while) (G) the gas tank strap recall. (H) the trans. is noisey. Plus you can touch it with a finger and it will leave a dent in it. It spent 18 days in the shop.
    The dealer told me to pick it up, they could not fix the squeaks goiung over the bumps, then told Ford that they fixed it.
    I had an arbitration meeting with BBB Auto Line and Ford set up on 2/28/06 in Ft. Worth, TX. Ford was to meet by phone, but did not call or show, they sent a letter saying they had fixed my problem and made no plans to do anything else. We gave up and traded it off to get a way from it.
  • passat_2002passat_2002 Posts: 468
    If you have really been trading in for a new vehicle every 2 or 3 years for the last 40 years... then I think it's safe to say that you're never happy with anything for very long. Good luck to you, and may you find peace and happiness someday.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    I think Sneakers told me that this was a '53 Plymouth (link goes to his CarSpace album photo).

    We looked the car up a few weeks ago and the ground clearance was something like 14" -- puts modern SUVs to shame. :shades:

    I bet the dealer or a body shop could reattach the cladding with some adhesive.

    Steve, Host
  • nitromaxnitromax Posts: 641
    We have high curbs in my neighborhood, and the right hand doors tend to catch the grass.

    Perhaps I'm not grasping your description, but why do you have to drive over curbs?
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "We gave up and traded it off to get a way from it."

    If you are switching out that often, I assume you are leasing? It is more cost effective in such circumstances.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "Perhaps I'm not grasping your description, but why do you have to drive over curbs?"

    Sorry, probably not clear. I park right next to the curb. When I open the right hand doors, they extend over the high curbs about 1/2 inch. If there is any decent grass on the lawn, the door touches the grass. When a person enters the car, the door moves down about 1/4 inch or so - right into the grass. Then when you go to close the door, the cladding catches on the grass (rear door only) and detatches a bit at the rear of the door. Since the front door doesn't catch the cladding, I'm assuming that the rear cladding wasn't attached right at the factory, leaving a gap of some sort.

    It's not a big issue, but it is the only thing we don't like about the FS. Otherwise it is everything I want from a vehicle.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 4,098
    "I bet the dealer or a body shop could reattach the cladding with some adhesive."

    It looks to me like the cladding is attached with some sort of brad that sticks through the door. I'm hoping the dealer can handle it. I wouldn't want to take it to an independent shop because I'm leasing the FS.
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