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Comments
-juice
Just to make you feel better the first car I bought on my own was a 1995 Mazda MX-6. I went to the dealership to test drive a Camry but looking close up didn't care for it. It was one of those combo dealerships..anyway I tested a Miata for fun only then saw the MX-6 and loved it. I didn't know jack about the car or anything about Mazdas in general. I bought it didn't haggle, didn't question, didn't look at the engine. Well I was in the market for a 6 cylinder whatever I bought. Didn't know enough about the badging and didn't look under the hood. I ended up with a 4 cylinder. Hey it had better pick up than my 4 cylinder Mustang so I figured it was 6. I met with the general manager of the place and he offered to get me the car I thought I bought because the sales person knew I wanted a 6 cylinder but she lied to him. However, I would have to pay the sales tax again. I didn't want to do that, so I asked for the monetary difference in what I got and what I thought I was getting. Because he had to cover for his sales person he offered me half of the difference plus $750 in maintenance or whatever I wanted so I got a decent deal after the fact.
Don't feel so bad and just chalk it up to learning experience and have fun in your NEW car!! Those of us who don't have one yet could be so lucky!
Recently, one of the local Porsche/Audi/Mazda dealers took on Subaru as a line. They are well respected for the other lines they carry and they are building a dedicated facility for the Subaru dealership. You can't believe the state of the union for Subaru dealerships here (NE Ohio), but that is another story.
Made my initial contact through the SOA website. Test drove the Tribeca the next day and I can report a VERY favorable test drive and buying experience. We ended up with a 5 seat limited in Titanium Silver with the Protection Group on a 36 month lease for $339 per month, tax included. It should be here no later than early next week.
Welcome aboard! Glad you liked the Beca.
John
Other than first month payment - did you have to come up with any other cash?
Ajay
This is my second subaru. I still have my 97 subaru Outback with 128K with no major problems. Its still going strong... I am in a dilemma whether to sell it or not. The dealer gave me $1800 trade-in value and I decided against it.
Ajay
Thank you for your feedback.
Every thing relating to price is negotiable.
If the items are not on the pre-printed factory window invoice - then you be safe in assuming they are creation of the dealer and should be removed from the negotiations from the start.
I was a very prepared buyer so you saying "become a better prepared buyer next time" is meaningless. I had all the facts and #'s etc. etc. They were just being stubborn about it and calling my bluff.
The end result is they lost me as a customer and I wont be going there for service or giving them any future business ever and I will be notifying SOA and giving them a bad report in the survey so in the end they lose a lot more then the couple thousand they overcharged me out of pure greed.
i do not see how my point about YOU selling a used car via pp and having the buyer come back to you is no different than what you are asking of your dealer.
thanks in advance for any tips.
Heres the only thing I have found (scroll down for the different mileage/years contracts) plus it shows LIST pricing...
http://www.langstonsubaru.com/en_US/f_AddedSecurity_1.chtml#1
I am in the Los Angeles, so anyone who's gotten a good deal around here please reply..
thx
Don't mean to sound greedy, but I'll save a few bucks anywhere I can.
thx
-Jeff
$349 per month for 48 months, 12,000 miles per year. $ 2500.00 down, plus tax title and drivers fees. the balloon payment at the end is 16,804.18. Buyer has the option to purchase or return the vehicle. They claim to have 20 in stock, Base, limited, and 7 passenger.
I am seeking feedback as to if this is a good deal, and any other comments.
You have not stated what model or equippment comes on the Tribeca at that price.
Howevr, based on the info provided your total payments over 48 months comes to over $36,000 not couning sales tax, title and fees. If that is a nicely equipped model it might be decent.
However, always ask what the capitalized cost of the vehicle is and the interest rate or money factor.
If you use Edmunds or Kelly Blue Book you can find the dealers cost with the options being quoted and that will tell you how much profit the dealer is making.
trade in was $100 less then edmund is showing for trade-in value for my SUV. so essentially I paid them about $100 plus say $500 over invoice if all the accesories were already on the vehicle at invoice. but like I said they need to install the tow hitch and oil cooler, the roof rack, mudflaps, and front hood protector for that price. and I got a becca with every option I wanted and none that i didnt. such as the front lower bumper protector and also did not buy the stupid cargo cover.
so what do you guys think? good deal?
Chrysler Pac I had traded in had a loaner car on their standard warranty and was extended with the ext warranty.
Not sure what their invoice was but figure they are getting about 40% margin on the extended warranty. I got the 4 yr/60k with Zero deductable GOLD plan which covers everything the factory warranty for $600. MSRP is $800.
-juice
I got the following options as well for a total of $37,016
Trailer hitch/transmission cooler
crossbar
auto-dimming mirror
all weather mat
luggage compartment cover
cargo tray
wheel locks
puddle light (after reading the posts)
$352.53/month which the salesman says is a 4.7% interest rate
36 month, 12,000 miles
$2500 down plus fees ($67) and taxes ($2,242)
buy out is $20,856
Purchase price, according to the dealer, is $32,025 which is basically MSRP
I'm not convinced this is such a good deal. Advice needed!
Second of all, nobody pays MSRP, lease or not. You should always bargain the purchase price first. Look at the monthly payment is the easiest way of getting ripped off.
How much did you pay for your accessories that were not on the B9? did you pay MSRP? did you pay install?
I did get the extended warranty 4y/60k miles for 75% of MSRP. not sure what the invoice is on extended warranties. no one seems to know on here. I paid $600 vs MSRP was $800 for the ext warranty. its the zero deductable GOLD plan.
only thing I wonder is that since the powertrain warranty is 5/60 you are not getting that much more coverage on non powertrain items.
I get them so if I sell my car privately at about 3 yrs with 50k I can tell them I will transfer a 1 yr 10k mileage 0 deductable warranty.
Classic plans cover nearly 1000 parts in all major component areas, including engine, transmission, drivetrains, front suspension, steering, brakes, electrical, cooling and fuel systems and air conditioning. Also provides towing and rental car reimbursement for covered repairs.
Gold Plus plans include all Classic plan coverage plus hundreds more parts. In fact, they provide essentially the same "bumper-to-bumper" coverage as the basic factory warranty. Only a few maintenance items and body parts are not covered. The Gold Plus plan also reimburses for lodging and meals when a breakdown interrupts your out-of-town travel, plus: 24-hour emergency roadside assistance*, $100 allowance for "Sign & Drive" dispatched towing, jump start, tire change, gasoline delivery, locksmith service, computerized trip routing, dealer locator service, travel assistance, lodging, meal reimbursement and road hazard tire protection.
Don't get me wrong, extended warranty is still worth it if it is reasonably priced. To me, $600 seems free money for your dealer. I'd pay twice that much for a 6-year/100k warranty which is more likely useful.
how about the a.c compressor and evaporator on my 98 Legacy which needed replacing at 60K!
its invoice (or $3000 max off MSRP or thats what it says on the VIP pamphlet I got with my IMBA membership material a few years back - but that limit may have been pre Tribeca days).
you may be able to get as good a deal haggling with a dealer but this ensures no haggling and they have to give it to you for factory ordered cars too and not just whats on their lot.
I wanted to see if this gets you invoice (close to the Subaru VIP program).
Paid Invoice, which is like $34,200 something + cost of crossbar and rear bumper guard. The sales guy looked it up in the book and i looked over his shoulder. $34200 is under the Invoice column. 2 dealer gave me the same invoice cost. Edmunds list the invoice as $33135 + dest of $625 = 33760. Hmmm.. Could Edmunds be off or the dealer 'padded' the invoice cost?
Got 1 year of free oil change too. (I didn't even have to ask!)
:shades: :shades: :P
Have to wait like a month to be built from Indianna
It's been answered in post# 83.
Even a free loaner car is figured into the dealerships overhead and affects their pricing minimally at least. The loaner is probably the only perk that is not a negative financially, along with free coffee & snacks.
BMW's free maintenance programs - are not free - it is part of the price you paid. In addition BMW & other brands that do this are thinking about themselves not the buyer. With a large % of their cars being leased - a free maintenance program greatly increases the likelihood of getting better maintained vehicles which equals more valuable vehicles back at lease end.
A very smart move on the factory's part - but not free.
Extended warranties are another financial deception. If you can not afford say more than $500 or $1000 in emergency repairs maybe an extended warranty is for you especially if you plan to a 100K or more on the car.
However, never forget that SOA or any factory is not looking out for your bottom line but their own. There is nothing wrong with that; that is capitalism. Extended warranties would not exist if they were good for the consumer - what company in their right mind would continue to sell a product or service that they know will cause them to lose money it.
It has always amazed me how an otherwise smart, savvy sophisticated person can become a naive and gullible consumer the moment they enter an auto dealer’s show room. They happily pay sinfully high prices for worthless add-ons like: fabric protection, paint sealants, and rust proofing (my personal favorite) on a car that comes from the factory with a very good rust warranty.
I have a friend that is in a 12 step program for substance abuse and they have this saying or rather riddle:
Q: How do you know when an addict is lying?
A: When their lips are moving.
Remember this the next time you are with an auto sales person (yes, yes - I know - there are some that are truthful) assume everything they say is false and check it out before you sign on the dotted line.
If there is one of those skinny add-on invoices next to the factory invoice, everything on it is usually BS & pure profit for the dealer. There are exceptions. For example, if it lists an extra that you can see and touch it maybe okay: i.e. pin stripes, a hitch, or roof rack etc.
I often suspected that auto show rooms have emitters that flood the area with electronic impulses that turn off the smart cells in the brains of otherwise very intelligent customers.
Just in case, wrap your head in tin foil or wear a lead lined helmet – just in case
As far s ext warr., my thinking is why bother with it. Why would you want to buy a car that is not reliable? We are Subaru fans because its reliable right? My brother used to have ext. warr. on a Chevy. The dealer wouldn't fix the same problem twice under the ext. warr.
When I bought my current car, VW Passat, my insurance company had a 'ext warr' program or insurace for breakdown, that for like $50 a year, it would cover any mechanical work on the car after a $250 deduct. A lot cheaper than what dealers charges.