My 95' Mits 3000GT will not start two, three , maybe four times a week. Wait 10 minutes and she starts right up. over the last 4 years I have put an rebuilt engine in her,(water pump went bad, blew the engine) Battery cables, Battery, Alternator, clutch, clutch cylinder, radiator and hoses, brakes and more. She runs and looks great. I have had it to a few mechanics, the last fixing a ground. However the problem persists. Has anyone had a issue like mine? What was the fix.
it can be many things.. try doing a whole tune up starting from plugs wires (make sure to gap the plugs correctly) and air filter. while you're there, check for any restrictions that the intake might have, clean the throtle body inside and out, and you should notice a difference. If you still have the same problem then check the MAF sensor cause it might be going bad on you but I really doubt it
well 300 bucks is hell cheap man!! I say you buy it if you dont have the money for a better one (stick ) dont worry about making power right now, make sure you take care of all the problems that the car might have first and make sure that the reg maintance of the car has been done (timing belt, plugs, wires, etc) you'll get the power later cause a healthy 3000gt has no problems giving it to you. DOCH engines can be modified really easy even if they're automatic. anyways, good luck with the car and enjoy it!
let it warm up for a while when you first start the engine, it should go away after a few mins, if not, you can give it gas, first take it to 1000 then to 1500 for about 10 seconds then let it go. you really shouldnt go as far as 8k cause it could damage the engine. if this doesnt work for you then I'd get, either a less thicker oil and go synthetic
there's many.. the vr4 comes with factory twin turbos making about 320hp and putting them on the four wheels which make a hell of a fast car!! sl model has the same engine but has a FWD transmission and no turbos still makes about 210hp and could look exactly the same as the vr4
if this is you're first car, you shouldn't be looking for a vr4 lol too much power and thats not good if you cant drive stick, and not even to mention how dangerous it can be on ice! you like the car? then get the sl model still a wonderful car
sounds like an oil leak.. but you can tell if your car is a DOCH or a SOCH by looking at the valve cover.. the SOCH is way smaller than the 24v and if the distributor has 3 wires going to the front of the engine right above the exhaust manifold and 3 going to the back then it would be a SOCH engine.. I own a base model and ppl might say that it's slower than the DOCH engine, but I've taken many of them with just a few mods.. in fact, base models are lighter and can get the same power as the sl model with the right modifications. anyways i think you should be happy with what you have even if it's not what u thought it was
go to 3sx.com and type "belt" look up the diagram of how the belt goes and it'll tell you the names of all the parts. save it or print it out, and all you have to do is losen a couple of bolts that hold the tensioners, is really not complicated. about 25 mins i'd say... good luck
look it up on wikipedia, it'll give you some info about the car. then you can go to 3si.org to find out more stuff about it. for parts i'd say 3sx.com and vr4's not only come with the turbos, but the're always stick and have many other cool features
I got a 12v engine, there's a noise coming from the driver side of the car, sounds like a rattling. it makes it when i step on the gas and force the car to move, cant hear it at idle tho... if i go over 1500rpm it starts to make it, and the higher the rpms the faster it makes the sound, it is always constant and i have no problems with it cause it doesnt seem to be doing any harm but its annoying the **** out of me!! any idea of what it might be?
I am having the same exact problem! Mine set for 3 years and is now doing the same thing! Did you ever figure out what the problem was? It would be so much appreciated!!
My AC looses its cold air after about 2 weeks. If I try to top it off it wont take much and does not make much off a diference. If I drain the system and put 2 cans of AC in it works great but only for the 2 weeks or so. It seems to still have quite a bit off preasure in the system when it looses its cold air. I have tried stop leak and also had the dealer check for a leak with no success. Any ideas. Jack
Hi Firestone, I think your on to smething. I am trying to find the orifice tube. I'm guesing it's up in front of the condensing coils. can you confirm? Thanks, Jack
Sorry for the late reply, I have not visited for a while. Never figured out the problem. Replaced oriface valve, and o rings and no success. Still does the same thing.
My gas gage and speedometer are not working on my 95' 3000gt. Tried replacing the gage cluster ( bought on e-bay). The speedo registers 20 mph at a stand still and the gas dial still is not working. Any ideas?
The rest of the features on the cluster are working fine. (Rpm pointer, lights, directional s)
I have put a second gauge cluster in my Mits 3000GT. At first the Speedo and Gas gage still did not work. Then suddenly the Speedo started working. Since then the gas gage started working but only read 3/4 full. The gas tank was just filled to the top. It then stopped working, went back to reading empty, and has again started working but only reading back up but to 3/4 of a tank Any suggestions? Thanks, JACK
I am from Lithuania. I have 1994 Mitsubishi GT3000 WR4 Twin Turbo. There are problems with ECU. It's not standard Mitsubishi GT3000 ECU, it have two plates inside, In front of it written: C-S type E2T61372-P, part No MD 192588, 10MHz-CPU M37798 CPU, on the sides written: big number and small number 2588 E 2T61372. Specialists of ECU tested it and don't find mechanic or electronic defects or trouble. They said there are problem with programming ECU, ECU needs to be reloaded, but there isn't OBD2 or OBD1 diagnostic connection in my car. My ECU himself have some connection (blue one named YAMAICHI FAP-40-07.028B), but there no possibility to connect to this connection in our country, Mitsubishi office in Lithuania couldn't help me with this problem. What can you recommend me about this problem? Is this possible to buy connection wire for this YAMAICHI FAP-40-07.028B connection and diagnostic CD for this ECU? Sorry there isn’t possible to show photos or I don't know how to make this.
Comments
Thanks,
Frustrated Jack
Jack
I think your on to smething. I am trying to find the orifice tube. I'm guesing it's up in front of the condensing coils. can you confirm?
Thanks,
Jack
Thanks,
Jack
The rest of the features on the cluster are working fine. (Rpm pointer, lights, directional s)
Thanks
Jack
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
JACK
I am from Lithuania. I have 1994 Mitsubishi GT3000 WR4 Twin Turbo. There are problems with ECU. It's not standard Mitsubishi GT3000 ECU, it have two plates inside, In front of it written: C-S type E2T61372-P, part No MD 192588, 10MHz-CPU M37798 CPU, on the sides written: big number and small number 2588 E 2T61372. Specialists of ECU tested it and don't find mechanic or electronic defects or trouble. They said there are problem with programming ECU, ECU needs to be reloaded, but there isn't OBD2 or OBD1 diagnostic connection in my car. My ECU himself have some connection (blue one named YAMAICHI FAP-40-07.028B), but there no possibility to connect to this connection in our country, Mitsubishi office in Lithuania couldn't help me with this problem. What can you recommend me about this problem? Is this possible to buy connection wire for this YAMAICHI FAP-40-07.028B connection and diagnostic CD for this ECU?
Sorry there isn’t possible to show photos or I don't know how to make this.