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2013 and earlier-Acura TL Lease Questions
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If so, your payment sounds pretty good. See if you can find out what the CAP COST is (what the dealer is selling the car to you for)?? This number should be AT/BELOW invoice for the car. I think it is, but I am not sure.
I did a ZERO due at sign lease (just sign & drive), and this is the way to go. I am glad you are looking at this option.
Your payment is $403 + 7% = $431/mo. This is for 35 more months, because your 1st payment is made for you already in the "sign & drive".
To be honest, I think you are golden........but see if you can find out the Cap Cost. You could email/call them back and say I need to be at $425/mo (inc tax) and I will take the car now. Just make sure that number is good for you!
I have several dealers that I am talking to at the moment and am getting pricing info from them. One of the dealers who is a bit further away gave me a very good price. However, the smaller local dealer is trying hard to earn my business and has been very easy to work with. I'm curious at what point does one stop the "Well this dealer gave me this price, can you beat it" game? I guess I could continuously go back and forth, until one of the dealers ended up crying uncle?
I wasn't really in the market for a car, as my 98 Accord EX V6 was running great. When I saw the ad for the TL lease and $359 monthly, that made me look closer.
I'd never leased a car before, but after spending time to crunch the numbers, came up with the absolute rock bottom best possible deal as my goal which would be just under $400 a month including 7.75% tax:
Base MSRP 36,225.00
holdback [3% MSRP] (1,086.75)
Invoice 33,283.00
true cost 32,196.25
destination charge 715.00
Final cost 32,911.25
Current incentive (2,000.00)
Best price 30,911.25
Since the $2000 is for a purchase, it didn't apply to the lease.
After calling around SoCal, I ended leasing from Mission Viejo Acura for:
Sales price 33,748.00 (250 under invoice)
Capitalized cost 34,398.73
Capitalized cost reduction 250.00
Residual value 21,425.20
Depreciation 12,973.53
Residual ratio 0.58
Rent Charge 2,793.43
Term 36
Total monthly payment inc tax 471.91
Money Factor 0.00139
Miles per year 10,000
I paid the following upfront instead of rolling in into the loan:
acquisition fee 595
cap cost reduction 250
CA tire fee 8.95
Registration fees 291
Doc fee 45
Misc fee 28
Also, I didn't qualify for the .00018 MF and was all the down at .00196. When I spoke to the F&I guy, we looked over my credit report and he agreed the score wasn't indicative of my payment history. He offered to sell me the Finishing Touch (Scotchguard) and keep the payment the same. He just bumped my interest to the preferred level of .00139.
Overall I'm really happy with the deal. Tustin Acura was also willing to sell at $33500 for a little more down.
Again, try to make it a point that you will take the car IF they agree to your price. Just be ready to do the deal if you get them to that point.
It's perfectly fine (and your right) to "price compare" with different dealers. I don't think anyone will fault you for that. Saving yourself $$$$ is NOT a bad thing!!
Actually, in my whole process, I went a little too far I think. I actually made one dealer mad and I lost the deal there............I had to walk out. Don't get to that point, especially if you really want to buy the car from that dealer.
Shoot for invoice or $100 - $200 +/- and call it a day. This way you win and they earn your business and will treat you with respect when you take your car to them for oil changes/car washes/parts/accessories/etc.
Good Luck and let us know what happens!!
Anyhow, after all things considered, I decided to go with the local dealer rather than driving an hour and a half away. here's deal I managed... Thoughts or comments?
MSRP: $38,940.00
Adj Cap Cost: $36,549.14
Residual: $21,392.25
Depreciation: $15156.89
Rent Charge: $1689.48
Total Base Payment: $16,846.37
Number of Payments: 36
Base Mthly Payment: $467.95
Base Mthly Tax: $32.76
Total Monthly Payment: $500.71
Total Out of Pocket: $840 (Includes 1st month Payment and Fees & Taxes)
You did great on your deal, I am glad you chose the Type-S over the IS250. The Lexus is sooooo small and under powered compared to the Type-S. I am 6'5" and there aren't many cars that I can fit in and feel comfotable in that provide 4 doors and drive with authority............and don't break the bank. The Acura TL-S was the perfect choice for me........mine is Carbon Bronze Pearl with Taupe/Black interior.
Again, you made a great deal..........and a fine choice for your next ride. ENJOY!!
P.S. If you are looking for a simple way to increase HP & MPG, get a drop in K&N air filter from Autoanything.com for $39.00 and free shipping. You will notice the difference right away, the MPG will increase over time...........usually after 1st & 2nd oil changes in new cars.
Thanks again!
Car_man
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imagine someone walking into the dealer in March, and getting told, well we will get ALL NEW, higher hp, SH-AWD TL's in next month, but we have these leftover 08s on the lot that you can buy at full MSRP... oh too bad you dind't buy it around christmas we were giving them away at invoice... yeah right...
i figure the overall "cost" will stay the same or get better. I see the MF got better, but the residual dropped a bit.
what is the residual for a Type S with 10k, 12k or 15k? thanks.
i'm torn between getting the type S or just waiting for an 09. i'm honestly on the fence also between just keeping my current daily driver and picking up a third car as a "toy". i've got a paid off sedan that i use to commute..it works fine. it's paid for. it's got a lot of miles...but it's a an old volvo with 130k and those things run forever. it really well maintained and i COULD easily keep it another 3-4 years and it would run fine. it's just not "Fun" and new like a TL-S would be. i can't trade that car in b/c they offered me so little for it. i could private party my sale and then lease the TL... OR i can just say F the TL, and keep my volvo as my commuter/daily driver/beater and pick up an S2000 as a toy.
But, are any of these numbers affected by one's credit score and credit history? I had an incredibly high credit score and perfect history for many years, until about 6-9 months ago. Unfortunately, my wife and I have gone through a really rough financial hardship where we had fallen behind on many bills including credit cards, mortgage, and current car lease payments. We have since bounced back and gotten current (not on credit cards) but, now have a bad credit history and am sure my score won't look too good either.
Does anyone know how this will affect my negotiating power and the deal I get?
How will the numbers be affected? What's my best approach? Can I still get a good or decent deal?
most of the rates quoted here assume tier 1 credit. not sur what the minimum fico cutoff is..710 or something like that.
if you have less than that the rate goes up, not astronomically, but it can go up.
sorry to hear about the recent difficulties. if you are just getting back on your feet, maybe getting a new car isn't such a hot idea. keeping what you have (if it's paid off) or buying something CHEAP might be a wiser choice. not as much fun, but more prudent perhaps. best of luck.
Unfortunately, the timing isn't great as my wife and I both have leases that are about to expire, so we really don't have much of a choice in replacing our cars soon. It might work in our favor though as we will hopefully be able to get lower payments.
I'm looking into an Acura TL because I'm more likely to get a better deal on that than an Accord or any other large family sedan at this point. Besides, I have always liked the TL anyways, so it kinda works out.
If you or anyone have any better suggestions...PLEASE advise.
you will get a good deal on a TL.
deals on it now are very good. if you can wait a month or two the deals may get better.
does anyone here know the current MF and residuals for a TL-S???
Car_man
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You never mentioned the selling price of the TL that you are interested in leasing. This is an important number for you as a consumer to know for two reasons. First, the selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. Without knowing the price of the car that you want to lease you don't know how good a price you are getting it for. The second reason is that one needs the selling price of the vehicle that they want to lease is that it is necessary to calculate its lease payment. I would be more than happy to give you a detailed analysis of this deal if you let me know what its selling price is.
Car_man
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do you know the residual values for the TL Type S???
in 2007. tje Type S had a lower residual than the base and base w/nav. has that also changed, so that they ALL dropped accordingly...or did the TL Type S not go down as much as the base????
from a financial standpoint - does it make more sense to lease b/c of this change..or is it truly a wash?
it would seem that if you put ZERO dollars down, you are technically getting a better deal b/c you are paying evenl ess in interest, but you're paying more depreciation..so in the end...the car is worth 2% less than it *was* goin to be woth had you leased in late december....
so when I turn the car back in, it will be cheaper to buy. so if i want to buy it, it will cost me about $800 less to buy.
i'm getting better at figuring out all this lease stuff, but i'm still no expert.
do I do better at lease turn in/trade/buy time on this "new" deal or not?
i like the TL-S. If I got the car, I'd want to get an IPOD adaptor so I could run it via the stereo controls. I'd also want the Aspec body kit. on the White diamond pearl, i think it looks really good.
so here is the big question - the dealers are selling/leasing at invoice. i can get the super low MF. In order to get the best deal on the TL-S ... what about basically sasying, ok i'll lease the car, but i want the body kit and the ipod adaptor at cost.
i know they won't give it to me for free...as they have to buy it....but the price on the acura website that they quote you, plus install is crazy high. i have seen tha stuff online from retailers for half or less of what the dealer wants. i assume the dealer gets it at THAT price or even less then marks it up a bunch.
it doesn't really make sense to pay for extras on a leased car b/c at the end of the lease, you lose the car and that stuff goes wih the car. so at full retail value, i woulnd't want to add it to a leased vehicle.
BUT if they would throw the a sepc body kit in at cost, which i think is like 600 bucks or so, and install it FREE - i'd bel ooking at a more marginal cost for a cosmetic upgrade i really like.
i might talk myself into it if it was dirt cheap.
am i insane for wanting to add an expensive accessory like this to a leased car?
would the dealer go for this or would they say no? anyone?
Maybe not insane... but....
Non-residualized accessories will kill your lease payment.. I wouldn't do it..
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the body kit, even at $1000 - which is close to dealer cost, would add about $30/month to my lease payment. kind of a lot when you nit picking lease payments.
but on white diamond pearl...that kit looks SLICK! at least from the rear it does. the front is so so...but the back quarter angle... nice.
Base TL
MSRP $34,440
Selling Price $31,999
Trade in equity $600
Residual %/amt 56%/$19,286.40
Money Factor 0.00045
No money down, no security deposit
First month payment only
Monthly payments = $390.76
thoughts...feedback? need to decide tomorrow.
thanks again
2008 TL w/ Nav. Here is the ridiculous offer (at least I think) I got today. Some numbers might be missing as this is from memory; the sales mngr took all paperwork as I got up to leave. Also, this is in Florida.
MSRP - $36,940
Adjusted Cap Cost - $35,700 (yeah right...invoice is $33,998)
Residual % - 56%
Money Factor - .00045
Cap Cost Reduction - 0 ($0 down)
Due at signing (explained below) - $1,500
Monthly payment inc. tax - $490
Funny day today. The initial salesman lasted about 15 min. before he had to get his sales mngr involved. I was told that the actual invoice price was not $33,998 but instead $33998 + $795 Dest. charge + $500 Advertising Fee + $200 misc fee = $35,700. Obviously a BIG lie as real Inv. is $33283 + $715 Dest. = $33998. Then said he could not negotiate $500 Advertising fee....Is this true???
He said money due at signing (of which he said none could be negotiated/waived) included: $500 Dealer Fee + $250 MV + $490 1st pymnt + tax-tag-title = $1500.
Obviously, not a good deal at all. Too many wrong #s everywhere. Needless to say, I will NEVER go back to that dealer (was treated rudely too) but will shop around to other nearby dealers.
My questions are: Do I have to pay the $500 advertising fee, $500 dealer fee, $250 MV fee and anything above $33998 as invoice??? Please Help!!!
Thanks to all of the helpful posts on this forum, I think I was able to get a decent deal on a 2008 TL Lease. Just wanted to share the information with everyone in case it helps. I'm located in Omaha, NE
2008 Acura TL
36 month
12K/miles per year
0 Down (first payment ONLY)
$410/month (5.5% tax included)
I am looking into leasing a TL-Nav for 3 years/36,000. I was wondering if you have the residual/money factor for this vehicle, if I decide to use the $2000 marketing support. According to the Acura website (and my local dealer), I am not allowed to use acura's special lease rate. Is this correct? Which is a better deal - using or not using the 2K market support? Thanks.
if you lease, you can buy it at invoice though. best deal I was quoted, with NOT ONE CENT out of pocket was $513/month for a Type S. that figure INCLUDED CA sales tax of 7.75%. so it was a TOTAL/FINAL payment amount and it was a true sign and drive - no money due at signing. Just sign the form and drive way.
i liked the TL Type S except for the torque steer. that really kills the experience for me. hard to get all excited about driving it all sporty when you mash the gas out of a turn and the frickin steering wheel jumps out of your hand.
if you can't feel the torque steer you aren't driving it hard enough.
if the price gets even cheaper I may do it just b/c it is a good deal. otherwise, i'm keeping my current daily driver and going to lease an S2k. the money factor on the S2k is about the same as the TL. great deal and a WAY more fun car.
TL-S Auto (no 6 speeds available anywhere!!)
$36,132 (close to or at invoice)
Residual: 20,638
MF: .00045
36mo/12K miles
Dealer will also pay the last 2 payments of my current TL lease ($950)
2 options
1) $2500 + 1st mo. payment = $525
2) 1st payment only = $563
Dealer said the .00045 rate is only good for 36 months. If I want to go to 39/42/48 months, they have to use 5.8% MF. Is this right?
What's the verdict on this deal? With the number of Acura dealers in Houston, I feel that I can get something lower than this.
my offer was in late dec of 07, so the MF was a big higher, but the residual was too...but with the new numbers, you get almost the exact same pricing.
with NO money down. not one cent...just sign the papers and drive off my payment was going to be $513/month for 36mo.
if I put down $3000 the payment would have been $425 or so..give or take a bit..i foget the exact number.
the 513 was an exact number.
they are selling you the car at almost invoice, but not quite.
That's a pretty good deal...how'd you manage to do that sign & drive for $513? Did you get the same terms 36/12K miles? And the $35,700, is that including destination?
The dealer gave me $35,417 + 715 dest. that's how he got that price.
I'm from Baton Rouge, LA, and there are only 3 Acura dealers in Louisiana - one of which is terrible, the other two, including the one in my city, are in lower volume, minimal competition areas, and thus, higher prices, and they refuse to go down, probably because they don't get the kickbacks high volume dealers get.
Therefore, I've called dealers in Dallas and Houston. Been working with Gillman Acura in Houston. They seem nice. Anyone have any experience with them?
Numbers wise... I looked at a bunch of prices paid for purchased TLs... the average difference between MSRP and purchase price typically is about 5000. For a lease on a TL, tack on 2000, so 3000 off.
Deal I've been working with them is for 15k mi / yr for 3 years:
MSRP: 34440
Base Cap Cost: 31395
Acquisition: 595
Net Cap Cost: About 32000
MF: 0.00045
Residual: 54%
Going to pay TTL up front
Comes out to around 400 a month I think. Does Acura use the standard lease formula? Where...
Depreciation monthly = (net cap cost - residual)/36
Finance fee monthly = (net cap cost + residual)xMF
Tax = (Dep + Fin)x rate
Also, if I do business with them, anything special I should do prior to driving to Houston? Gillman says that they don't put any tint, protection packages, vin teching, etc... on their cars. I wonder if they can fax me over something with definite numbers and a VIN.
And anyone know how out of state leases work for titling and licensing?
Charlie
TO
$1900 down, $387 per month
NOW
I see from above posts that this can be beat even more (1152 bhzii)
$390.76 with only $600 trade in +$390.67=$990.67
Which is about $1000 more than the deal I had in place.
I really want a Type S but can't seem to get there. ANy thoughts?
Smitty
36 month/10k yr/$700 down includes TTL/$499 month including tax
How would the Money Factor and Residual Value change for the last post if the mileage was 10k or 12k? And how would it change if you added Nav?
Also, what are the other non-negotiable charges with Acura? (i.e. Acura Bank Fee, Destination Cost, etc)
Basically looking for the numbers specific to Acura so I can run the numbers.
Thank you very much,
A.J.
Here's the deal we got:
Vehicle: 2008 Acura TL with Navigation.
Terms: 36 months
Miles: 12K / year
$0 down, NY taxes rolled into payments.
Inception fees - about $1400 (1st month, registration, bank fee).
Monthly payment: $435 (including NY State taxes).
Financing came to 1%, price was slightly below invoice.
How did we do?
Thanks
MSRP- 36940
Invoice- 34248
Purchase price- 33248 + 595 (Aquisition Fee)
Money factor- .00045
Residual- 55%
12k miles per year for 36 months
With all the DMV fee and registration and first months payment drive off = $935
Monthly Payment 431.48 per month including taxes 8.75%.
What say...how did I do??
Tomorrow I'm set to lease a base no Navi TL with:
MSRP: 34440
Base Cap Cost: 31500
Fees: 595 Acquisition + 225 Title and Licensing = 820
Net Cap Cost: 32320
15000 Miles / year = 54% residual = 18597.60
MF = 0.00045
36 months
First payment due at signing, no money down other than that
Payment comes out to 440.93 per month with 9% taxes applied to the payment
I know you're doing 12000 vs 15000, but still seems odd considering you're leasing a Navi for 430 vs non Navi for 440.