I Have a Black "07 Z71 4X4 Suburban The mirrors are identical on both sides they have black plastic all around the mirror side and the top half of the front of the mirror is silver plastic and the bottom half is black plastic if you'd like a picture of each of them send me your email address. Hope this helps.. Thanks Diane
I have a '07 Tahoe LTZ. I just checked my mirrors and they both have black plastic material around them. The driver side mirror is about 1/4" but the passenger side mirror is about 1/8" ??
Our 2007 Yukon XL, with 55k miles, now requires about 5 seconds of engine cranking before it starts. Normally it takes barely a second of cranking for the engine to start. It runs fine once started, and the problem began with this tank of gas (I made sure the gas cap was tight).
If I start it, shut it off, then immediately restart it, it starts instantly again. I do not smell any gas, but maybe it is losing pressure? I also tried turning the key on, give the fuel pump 5 seconds to pressurize the system, but it still takes 5 seconds of cranking to start.
i had a similar problem on an '00 silverado and it was the fuel pressure regulator. I probably knew more about it back then, but this is all I remember now!
Hopefully it will point you in the right direction...
What a difference a few months makes. gas is $4 a gallon. YIKES. Thanks world economy. WE NEED TO DRILL FOR OIL. Please call our fat congressmen and women. Sorry, just venting. Has anyone figured out how to make the cylinder deactivation less sensitive? Does anyone know of any aftermarket chips/modules that can keep the Tahoe in 4 cyl mode on highway driving? I still get 19-20 mpg going 73 on the hwy. If there is wind in front or side, forget it, it goes down to 16-17 mpg. :mad:
Here are some hints that I suggest. I had my 07 Tahoe since March 2006.
I just did a 100 mile trip yesterday from Masschusetts to Maine ( consider the hills on the highway as well). From the moment I went on the highway I set my Economy Reader to "0", my MPG was 23.4 once I got to my destination. Plus, I had to stop four times for traffic that lasted 5 - 8 minutes each.
My best suggesting is not to use the cruise control. I drive on the middle lane 68 - 73 MPH. Also, my tires are at the right pressure.
My city MPG is usally 16.5 on average. I let the vehichle drive itself and try to leave it at 45 MPG on average.
My prior vehicle was a 99 Ford Explorer - 6 cyl SOHC with 15/19 MPG.
I can't complain.
Now, I do agree to let these liberal dudes/dudettes on getting off their pansy rear end and allow to have drilling on our soil for oil.
IT IS CLEANER...than it was 30 yrs ago AND, the technology today zeros in on one - 5 drilling hoes for oil stikes vs 30 -40 30 years ago.
But NOOOOOOOOOOOOO !!!! ......Liberals Just Don't Get It !! and NEVER will !
A reporter would like to talk to mothers who use a large SUV to transport children but are now considering a smaller, more fuel-efficient vehicle as a result of high gas prices. Please respond to jwahl@edmunds.com with your daytime contact information along with your current vehicle and the vehicle/s you are considering no later than Wednesday, June 11th.
Thanks,
Jonathan Wahl Corporate Communications Edmunds Inc.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
I recently had a flat tire that was repaired. When I got the car back the TPM indicated that the system needed to be reset. In checking the owners manual, there is a very specific set of instructions to follow in order for the system to relearn the sensors. I have tried to reset the system several times by either increasing or decreasing pressure in the tires. I followed the manual instructions exactly, and have not been able to get all 4 sensors set at the same time. Does anyone know if there is a trick to resetting this system, or am I going to be stuck taking this back to the dealer and paying to have them do it. Has anyone else had this issue?
Hey mayher, Try calling a dealer and asking them. I had trouble with the oil change sensor and called a dealer and found out that by depressing the accelerator 3 or 4 times that this resets it and it did work. Good luck. Mark :shades:
Several have experienced difficulty resetting the TPMS, especially those with the newer rubber valve stems. Some have had better luck by adding air rapidly or letting air out rapidly. Hope this helps.
I believe you're stuck taking it to the dealer. They will reset your indicators over their link as opposed to your tried method. I had problems after rotating my tires to a point where the "!" message came on the display. It's my opinion that the user reset method is complete junk.
Thanks, appreciate the input, but I already did that. They told me to follow the procedure in the manual which based on the feedback I am receiving is not unusual.
Also tried letting air out rapidly as suggested by another post. Even tried taking out the valve core to let air out rapidly. That didn't work either, fortunately I have a compressor to refill in my garage.
Third response hit it right on the head. " System is junk"
Was this problem resolved or has anybody else had this experience? I have '07 Denali that was fine when I took out my daughter out of her carseat yesterday, but when I opened the rear right door this morning, the trim hit the front door and dented it. I took it to the dealership, but they didn't offer any help. They recommended a place to get body work done and told me it was an issue for insurance. I'm not sure how to move forward with this issue, as I am certain it is not something we did. Any advice would be welcome...
You should bring this up with the Service manager and start a file with GM customer support. It is the service departements mission to deny any type of warranty request. However if you can prove your case to the service manager they will often assist you.
What's interesting is that the trim never hit the front door before so why would it hit now? Unless of course something moved;
My best guess is that the trim came loose as a result of a pretty heavy storm that night. I think water got between the door and the trim and the adhesive can loose. It is only sticking out a small amount, but it was enough to hit. I have since seen someone about getting the body work done and he said that he has seen this issue a few times. He has offered to help me with pursueing warranty coverage and has said he will put me in touch with the guy who used to run the local GMC dealer service department. He says this guy can confirm that this is known though not recognized issue with the Denali. We'll see where this goes. I've been really happy with my Denali, but if we can't arrive at a satisfactory resolution, it will be the last GMC I own.
I had pieces of the door molding on my '07 Tahoe come off and they replaced it and a couple of those had to be replaced. I think they did a poor prep at the factory and the dealer as that 3M trim tape is really good stuff.
I am wondering if anyone has had all of the problems I have had for the last 2 years with my 2007 Chevy Tahoe? Let me list them ALL and tell me if I'm crazy (I bought this June 2006 so it has been almost two years)!! -Wouldn't start/dead battery - Oct. 06 -Wouldn't start/dead battery (stuck in garage!) - Dec. 06 Dealer replaced battery -Back lift gate panel leaked (badly) - April 07 Electrical issues when starting/wouldn't turn over May-Nov. 07 Dealer told me this was normal yet when I persisted FINALLY told me there was an electrical upgrade. -Battery showing low after I drive, stop, and restart - Dealer told me nothing wrong -My backup automatic sensor turns off when I first start - Jan.08 -present
As you can see this thing has had problems yet the one that really scard me happend this weekend. I had to put it in 4 wheel drive (have rims and got a little stuck!), yet when I went to turn it to 2 WD it wouldn't go. I then shut it off, when I restarted it went to 4 low!!! I couldn't get it out at all!! FInally shut it off again and let it sit for awhile and when I turned it on it went to 2WD.
This is my last straw, I bought this brand new and gave up 2 perfectly good cars (03 Chevy Z71 and 05 Toyota Solara) because I liked the new style plus my husband works out of town so we wanted something reliable. Everytime I say something to my dealership they look at me like I'm a dumb female. I have grown up around cars so I do know a thing or two (not how to choose them though!).
Just curious if anyone else has had ALL of these issues?
I own a 2007 Tahoe, purchased when they were first released! I've had a few minor but very frustrating problems and the trim mold was the first, but it was both rear doors. My dealership replaced the trim immediately because one of the clips that secured it in place broke off. But within a month, it happened again. Growing up with a father owning an Auto Repair Shop and his brother owning an Auto Mechanic Repairs, I could tell something was not right but had to get higher management involved. They did acknowledge the trim mold is not a perfect fit because of a design flaw and when replaced the first time, they had to force it to fit. So, they replaced it again and used 3M tape to help secure it. This worked but I get wind noise occasionally bcause it is coming loose in places again. Good Luck and don't give up!
I think there are some service bulletins or recalls on some of the issues you're mentioning... Like the battery stuff... I've had a different set of problems with mine... Like 5 thinks that Chevy agrees are problems, but just isn't fixing.. Call the GM Customer Service line they will help you... Also, talk to the Service manager at your dealer and even try a couple of other dealers to see if any will help you better...
I am fed up with the starter problem!!! A few months ago, my battery was dead. This concerned me because there was not a reason for this to happen, plus it was only a year old. The starter problem began about 6 wks. When I crank the car, it turns over but will not start and just keeps going like I am holding the key. I quickly turn it off worried its going to cause damage. When I try again, it would start as usual. On the first repair visit, the service dept. said, " The diagnostic test results did not detect a problem and they said, "this is normal". That's BS! It continued and sometimes would not start until the third try. On the second visit to be repaired, they said the problem is the battery and it wasnt getting enough juice to start, so I bought a new battery. I am headed back tomorrow but not with a patient attitude... After replacing the battery, it is worse! When i turn the key it does not start and is making a grinding noise. It is taking a minimum of 4 trys to crank. It's driving me crazy and I have no more patience for their computer testing especially when anyone that hears it ask if I an having car problems.
I agree with you on the starter issue!! When I first brought up the issue at the dealership they said they couldn't find anything wrong and it's normal! It's normal for a new vehical to sound like trash?!
I'm going to take the advice to call the GM service center AND try another dealer's service dept. The thing that irritates me is that I have taken more than enough time out of my life trying to get this thing fixed!
I have put two transmissions in my 07 Tahoe. 1 week after we purchased our tahoe the transmission went out, I had just under 400 miles they put a new one in. Two weeks ago I had with 22000 miles on my tahoe and they had to rebuild it. I am checking into the lemon law. :lemon:
I have a 2007 Suburban and have had the same problems. I went to start the car last week and it sounded like I was holding the key. It happened at least three more times and I called the service dept. They at first told me that it might be the cheap gas that I had in my car. One service manager told me that he had 2 other customers last week with the same problem with their new Suburbans. They took the car and called me later that day and told me it was the fuel pump. They replaced the fuel pump and everything seemed fine until later that same day it started doing the same thing again! I will be calling back the service dept to let them know. Obviously this is a problem! I will post again if I get a solution.
Hi, I too am researching into lemon law. Our 07 Tahoe LTZ been leaking trans oil since day 1. Service tried to fix it 5 times already. Now seeing drops of oil on garage floor again.
I just found the OE replacement TPM sensor from Belle Tire (it seems Orange *** brand, don't remember exactly), it much cheaper than original. just share with you. Jason.
Has anyone hd any experience in getting the ECU reprogrammed so as to make the engine stay in V-4 mode more often? With our 2007 Yukon, we NEVER get on it and pretty much just baby it around town so as to get better gas mileage so I think this rig could stay in V-4 pretty much all day.
So what is the logic that the ECU uses that tells the engine to go from V4 to V8 and back?
I am working with Jason Gadberry at Blackbear Performance and he is really sharp...and he thinks he can crack the code.
So has anyone actually got this done to their truck? What kind fuel mileage of performance did you get?
As with any type of ECU reprogramming, unless returned to stock when taken into the dealer for any type of warranty work, warranty may be void. I've seen it go either way depending basically on the service manager and what kind of mood he is in. That is if they find the programming.
The ECU program puts it into the V4 mode when it determines that the engine can safely handle the load. It can stay in V4 for up to ten minutes and then has to go to V8 to allow temperatures in the engine to equalize. I've found that w/ 3.73 gears, mine stays in V4 more in town when in the tow/haul mode. Sometimes that results in higher mpg and sometimes it doesn't because it does cause rpm to be higher as it kicks out OD at lower speeds.
I'm new here. Hi i'm Gregg. Last week I purchased an 03 Yukon XL. The truck would not start after a two hour trip. I jumped it and ran it next morning dead again. Sounds like a dead battery right? Well all this week it starts up no problem. tonight I went to the grocery store went in for ten minutes while the family stayed out with the radio on(truck was off) and the head lights on . When I went to start it the truck was dead. I needed a jump start. I came home just try to start it with no problems. Does this sound like an electrical problem???I thought when cranking batteries died. That was it.
I have a bad oil leak that appears to be coming from directly above the oil filter, (it's not the filter) on the block somewhere. The entire bottom side of the vehicle and rear glass is covered with an oil mist. Anyone else encounter this problem? I have 45K on it. I lost about a quart during a recent 700 mile trip.
You sure it's not from the oil filter? You could have a gasket from the old oil filter separate from the filter....and stay on the engine (I've had that happen with the original mfg filter on my 07 Sub). I always check to make sure the old gasket comes off with the filter, else you will have a leak with the new filter.
Hi Gregg. I'm certainly no expert, but I suspect it may just be the battery. I had the battery die on me once at about 2 yrs/25K miles (just before heading off for vacation). I had been using a portable air compressor plugged into the cigarette lighter. Lights, radio, etc. worked fine, but the car would not start. Not even a click. OnStar button worked, so I called and they sent a guy out to jump it and it was fine for a full year. Then this past Mothers Day weekend (about 3 yrs/40K miles on the car), it died again. I was renting a little travel trailer (these things always happen just as we are headed out of town!), and again the radio, lights, etc. worked fine. I know because I had to test everything and make sure the trailer was properly connected before heading out. Then, again tried to start and nothing, not even a click. So, I got a jump and went directly to NTB. I shut the car off in their parking lot, and when I started it up again to pull it into the garage, it was perfect. No hesitation, nothing. But the guy at the garage there said 3 years was about the life expectancy of an OE battery and I decided I better just get a new one before heading out to camp in the middle of nowhere.
So, short story long, it seems to me that a dead/jumped battery can be recharged and behave well for a while and then start to stutter again after a while. If you have the original battery still, I'd go ahead and get a new one. Someone smarter than me can recommend a good brand, I ended up with whatever they happen to have at NTB because I wasn't in a position to go bargain shopping with a trailer attached and three kids in the car and a road trip set to begin the next morning.
#3060 of 3067 mileage for 07 Tahoe by gmarugg Aug 16, 2008 (5:46 pm) I am getting about 16.5 MPG with mostly hwy miles. I have heard people talk about getting 20 MPG. What is normal?
Normal seriously depends on your driving style. My first summer, I averaged, 13MPG and now, 2 summers later, I'm at about 15MPG. A majority of street driving. My advice, use cruise control as much as possible. When approaching lights, let the momentum of the truck carry you as far as possible. Start up, nice and easy. Finally, cut 5mph off of your average speed.
I have a lot of up and down driving where I am at, but if I am on the highway using cruise control I can get around 19 to 20mpg. But since my daily commute is heavy street driving I usually don't get that.
Also, look up Hypermiling. Practice the safe techniques of hypermiling and you will see a big difference.
**Quote** Has anyone hd any experience in getting the ECU reprogrammed so as to make the engine stay in V-4 mode more often? With our 2007 Yukon, we NEVER get on it and pretty much just baby it around town so as to get better gas mileage so I think this rig could stay in V-4 pretty much all day.
So what is the logic that the ECU uses that tells the engine to go from V4 to V8 and back?
I am working with Jason Gadberry at Blackbear Performance and he is really sharp...and he thinks he can crack the code.
So has anyone actually got this done to their truck? What kind fuel mileage of performance did you get?
Any pit falls of things to avoid? **End Quote**
I would suggest using cruise control as much as possible. I notice on my Tahoe, if I'm just driving I will rarely see V4, but with cruise control I'm in V4 a lot more.
Thanks for the info. It has'nt let me down for a couple of days and I had Autozone check the battery and the report read that the battery is fine. I dont know we'll see. Thanks Gregg
I have a lot of greenish fluid all over the bottom of my Tahoe. _____________________________________________________________________ Green fluid is almost always from a coolant leak. Check your hoses and radiator and heater hose connections.
Nah, it wasn't coolant. It was the transfer case. The oil pump ate a hole in the transfer case cover, resulting in the leak. It took 3 days for them to find it, order the parts, and fix it. Tahoe is 18 months old with 45,000 miles.
Comments
So you have the trim on both sides? or No trim on either side?
i hate to drive all the way over to a dealer - maybe I will just try and find a Z71 next time I am in a parking lot.
If the trim is gone - anyone want to bet that my dealer will say - it must have fallen off while I was driving it --
Thanks Diane
If I start it, shut it off, then immediately restart it, it starts instantly again. I do not smell any gas, but maybe it is losing pressure? I also tried turning the key on, give the fuel pump 5 seconds to pressurize the system, but it still takes 5 seconds of cranking to start.
Help. Thanks.
Thanks
Rick
Hopefully it will point you in the right direction...
I just did a 100 mile trip yesterday from Masschusetts to Maine ( consider the hills on the highway as well). From the moment I went on the highway I set my Economy Reader to "0", my MPG was 23.4 once I got to my destination. Plus, I had to stop four times for traffic that lasted 5 - 8 minutes each.
My best suggesting is not to use the cruise control. I drive on the middle lane 68 - 73 MPH. Also, my tires are at the right pressure.
My city MPG is usally 16.5 on average. I let the vehichle drive itself and try to leave it at 45 MPG on average.
My prior vehicle was a 99 Ford Explorer - 6 cyl SOHC with 15/19 MPG.
I can't complain.
Now, I do agree to let these liberal dudes/dudettes on getting off their pansy rear end and allow to have drilling on our soil for oil.
IT IS CLEANER...than it was 30 yrs ago AND, the technology today zeros in on one - 5 drilling hoes for oil stikes vs 30 -40 30 years ago.
But NOOOOOOOOOOOOO !!!! ......Liberals Just Don't Get It !! and NEVER will !
Drill here, Drill Now and Pay Less !!!!
Thanks,
Jonathan Wahl
Corporate Communications
Edmunds Inc.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Thanks :mad:
Mark :shades:
Also tried letting air out rapidly as suggested by another post. Even tried taking out the valve core to let air out rapidly. That didn't work either, fortunately I have a compressor to refill in my garage.
Third response hit it right on the head. " System is junk"
System is not very user friendly.
What's interesting is that the trim never hit the front door before so why would it hit now? Unless of course something moved;
-Wouldn't start/dead battery - Oct. 06
-Wouldn't start/dead battery (stuck in garage!) - Dec. 06 Dealer replaced battery
-Back lift gate panel leaked (badly) - April 07
Electrical issues when starting/wouldn't turn over May-Nov. 07 Dealer told me this was normal yet when I persisted FINALLY told me there was an electrical upgrade.
-Battery showing low after I drive, stop, and restart - Dealer told me nothing wrong
-My backup automatic sensor turns off when I first start - Jan.08 -present
As you can see this thing has had problems yet the one that really scard me happend this weekend. I had to put it in 4 wheel drive (have rims and got a little stuck!), yet when I went to turn it to 2 WD it wouldn't go. I then shut it off, when I restarted it went to 4 low!!! I couldn't get it out at all!! FInally shut it off again and let it sit for awhile and when I turned it on it went to 2WD.
This is my last straw, I bought this brand new and gave up 2 perfectly good cars (03 Chevy Z71 and 05 Toyota Solara) because I liked the new style plus my husband works out of town so we wanted something reliable. Everytime I say something to my dealership they look at me like I'm a dumb female. I have grown up around cars so I do know a thing or two (not how to choose them though!).
Just curious if anyone else has had ALL of these issues?
It continued and sometimes would not start until the third try. On the second visit to be repaired, they said the problem is the battery and it wasnt getting enough juice to start, so I bought a new battery. I am headed back tomorrow but not with a patient attitude... After replacing the battery, it is worse! When i turn the key it does not start and is making a grinding noise. It is taking a minimum of 4 trys to crank. It's driving me crazy and I have no more patience for their computer testing especially when anyone that hears it ask if I an having car problems.
I'm going to take the advice to call the GM service center AND try another dealer's service dept. The thing that irritates me is that I have taken more than enough time out of my life trying to get this thing fixed!
Good luck!
candyk
Please post your finding.
Thanks
So what is the logic that the ECU uses that tells the engine to go from V4 to V8 and back?
I am working with Jason Gadberry at Blackbear Performance and he is really sharp...and he thinks he can crack the code.
So has anyone actually got this done to their truck? What kind fuel mileage of performance did you get?
Any pit falls of things to avoid?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
So, short story long, it seems to me that a dead/jumped battery can be recharged and behave well for a while and then start to stutter again after a while. If you have the original battery still, I'd go ahead and get a new one. Someone smarter than me can recommend a good brand, I ended up with whatever they happen to have at NTB because I wasn't in a position to go bargain shopping with a trailer attached and three kids in the car and a road trip set to begin the next morning.
I am getting about 16.5 MPG with mostly hwy miles. I have heard people talk about getting 20 MPG. What is normal?
Normal seriously depends on your driving style. My first summer, I averaged, 13MPG and now, 2 summers later, I'm at about 15MPG. A majority of street driving. My advice, use cruise control as much as possible. When approaching lights, let the momentum of the truck carry you as far as possible. Start up, nice and easy. Finally, cut 5mph off of your average speed.
I have a lot of up and down driving where I am at, but if I am on the highway using cruise control I can get around 19 to 20mpg. But since my daily commute is heavy street driving I usually don't get that.
Also, look up Hypermiling. Practice the safe techniques of hypermiling and you will see a big difference.
Has anyone hd any experience in getting the ECU reprogrammed so as to make the engine stay in V-4 mode more often? With our 2007 Yukon, we NEVER get on it and pretty much just baby it around town so as to get better gas mileage so I think this rig could stay in V-4 pretty much all day.
So what is the logic that the ECU uses that tells the engine to go from V4 to V8 and back?
I am working with Jason Gadberry at Blackbear Performance and he is really sharp...and he thinks he can crack the code.
So has anyone actually got this done to their truck? What kind fuel mileage of performance did you get?
Any pit falls of things to avoid?
**End Quote**
I would suggest using cruise control as much as possible. I notice on my Tahoe, if I'm just driving I will rarely see V4, but with cruise control I'm in V4 a lot more.
_____________________________________________________________________
Green fluid is almost always from a coolant leak. Check your hoses and radiator and heater hose connections.
Just covering all the bases.