obyone....that's a really good question. I remember my sales person folding down the NAV screen to install the disk 2.5 years ago when I bought mine. What I don't remember is how he did it.
Sounds like a trip to the owner's manual is in order.
shark....I looked under "menu" last night when I was in my Tahoe. I didn't see any button there for "loading" or "open" or anything remotely close to how to change the NAV disk. Do you remember what the menu button says?
Yeah. This means it is more than just a draining the battery from leaving a light or radio on. First, bring your battery to an auto store to get it tested. It may be breifly holding and chage and dissapting quickly meaning it is bad. If it fails, get a new one.
If it tests good, you may have a loose connection on the alternator. If not, it sounds like your alternator is going out. Get it replaced.
That would be awesome if we could. The AFM is pretty useless the way they have it programmed. Mine really only dropps to 4 when i let off the gas.. That's the only time I'm not worried about gas mileage. When I'm not giving it gas.
They probably have a non aggressive programming so that people woudn't be complaining about thier trucks not performing like a truck.
If it spent more time in v4, you'd see a great loss of performance. In fact, if v4 is what you want and you don't care about your truck performing like a truck. You may want to get an economy car. ha ha!!
I know, we want the best of both worlds, an economy truck!!
I guess you could spend an extra $10k + and get the tahoe hybrid.
Yeah. I've noticed that too. If im on flat road and in the 45 to 55 mph speed limit. I will put it in cruise at about 50mph and it will stay in v4. You can hear the higher rpms too.
Hi.. Go to Menu on the right side radio/nav panel. then click on Nav on top middle of menu. then go down to the round map of the world.. I think it says change "something" can't remember off the top of my head... but click on that and it will open the face screen and you'll get the option to eject DVD then you can change it out and close. That's it. Good luck.. let me know how you come out. Diane (SEABYRD)
FYI - I just had the same thing happen with our 2007 Tahoe. The dealer thought it was a ground problem under the driver seat, but ended up stating that it was a radio problem. He said I was the first person to have that type of problem at his dealership, but he had another lady come in the same day, with the exact same problem. They put in a new radio and everything is back to normal again.
Still having this problem with the battery dying after just leaving tailgate opened for around ten minutes (inside lights on )The truck then has to be jump started, I might not have this problem for weeks as long as NOTHING is left on for more than five or ten minutes, Very frustrating!! Can anyone help?? Thanks Gregg
May also have something electrically defective with a very large current drain, but you could check that by monitoring the amount of current draw coming out of the battery while the door is open. If you have a large current drain, then start pulling fuses to figure out which circuit is the draw (blower motors, headlights, heated seats, shorted diodes in the alternator, etc).
Does this sound familiar? Made a tight turn in an off road environment (little clearance) and tore off the air deflector under the front bumper. Dealer quoted $63 to replace, however before I could get around to getting the replacement part --- ran through 2 tanks of fuel (89 oct Reg unleaded).
Ironically I've noticed almost a 10% decrease in avg fuel economy --- 17.8 >> 16.2 mpg
Is this a fluke, or does that black plastic trim piece below the front bumper have an actual purpose / effect on fuel economy.
Stupid question --- don't know. What do you think??
Not a stupid question but if you had read your owner's manual, you would have noticed that it said to take the lower air dam off when going off-road. And yes it does have an aerodynamic purpose in that it reduces the Cd. But you found that out.
Did you ever find out the problem? I have an 07 Yukon that does the same thing (among other electrical issues). I also just had the battery replaced, again. This is the third battery in this vehicle that I have had less than 3 yrs (31K miles). Just curious to see how yours was diagnosed. I think mine is a big fat :lemon:
For your '07, you need to have Service Bulletin #07033 performed. It's a reflash. Afterwards there will be a sticker affixed to the left side/front under the hood. I had mine done and haven't had a problem since.
I have the same problem with a 2007 Tahoe. Right rear sensor was probably damaged when my wife backed into a parked car(very slight rub on the bumper near that sensor) and the "Service Park Assist" keeps on when you start the car. How did you ever resolve your issue?
I have a 2007 Tahoe. The Bowtie on the front grill is starting to show signs of deteriation. I'm going to buy a new Bowtie and replace. Is this something that I can do easily? or will it require the dealer to replace?
Try Stylin' Trucks. They will have a nice replacement bowtie. I've purchased from them before as well as made returns, all without problems. Replacement is pretty straight forward.
Does anybody know what year Cadillac Escalade tail lights fit the 07 Tahoe, or if they fit at all? Also, how would you do a 3" drop if the Tahoe has the load/ride leveling system? Thanks.
Not sure if you are really set on putting the Escalade tail lights on your Tahoe, as there are other options out there (see URL below for example). Be advised that when you change your tail light assembly to all LEDs, you may need to add resister (or some call it the load equalizer) to your turn signals circuit or replace the OEM Flasher to handle a lower current. http://www.ipcw.com/ http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?category|category_root|-26=Lighting&partf- amilyid=6045
Two problems w/ the NBS Esky tails - they will require a load resistor and an Esky applique (vent cover) as the Esky one is square and carries down to the taillite.
The option I took was a set of Eagle Eyes from shopcreativecustoms.com. They are plug and play. Takes about 20 minutes to install and they look sharp.
I just experienced the Service Four Wheel Drive message as well. The four wheel drive continued to work perfectly however, at my 60,000 maintenance I mentioned it to the Service Manager. They performed 4 Wheel Drive Maintenance Service...a week later I was in 6 inches of snow, I dialed in the 4WD, the light came back on but this time nothing happened...no 4 WD. Now they want to change me to determine what is wrong. Anyone have this experience and a quick solution?
HELP! 30,000 miles leased Chevy Suburban died on me last night. I have it towed back to the dealer, The service team has not contacted me and has not offered options how I can recoup my being immobilized for days now. Anyone has similar problems with service and customer service with Chevy?
Thanks for responding quickly. I am totally exhausted. I was not thinking of being compensated. Aren't they supposed to offer a loaner car or something? This is my first time to be in this situation with a leased truck. Any reports of similar problems with their 07 Suburban?
Leasing is just one other financing arrangement. You can: - pay cash (and the dealership gets its' cash for the car, or - you can take out a loan with someone and you own the car when the payments are over (and the dealership gets its' cash for the car), or - you can find someone to do a lease with and whomever wrote the lease owns the car when the payments are over (and the dealership gets its' cash for the car).
You deal with the service department on any problems the vehicle has. You get in the same service queue as everyone else, but actually the scheduled committed services are usually done first and any non-planned service (like you) get worked in if/when they can.
I've dealt with all kinds of service departments over the years. Some have loaner cars which they give out, some have rentals which you can rent if you need, others have a delivery van which they'll drive you back home for no charge, others have no benny services whatsoever.
If you get all your maintenance, oil changes, state inspections, tire rotations etc done with them, then they try to help you out more than someone who just drives/tows in off the street.
I have an '07, and other than the wiper heater cable recall....... have not had a single problem with it (knock on wood).
I have a 2007 Tahoe with about 40k miles (just out of warranty!) and would like to remove the bezel (plastic woodgrain piece) that surrounds the radio/nav & AC controls. A barely noticable but very annoying crackle has started and it sounds like it's coming from behind the bezel. I'm thinking maybe a screw has become a little lose which is causing the noise. I would like to get in behind and just tighten everything down...
Has anyone had any experience removing this piece? Are there any removal instructions out on the web? It's a pretty tight fit so I don't want to just start prying on it and see if it pops off. Maybe there is a special tool??
The bezal on my 07 Suburban Z71 just pops off... it takes quite a lot of force but it doesn't have any screws in it.. I used 2 plastic spatulas to slide carefully in behind it and pull it off... It feels like it will break but it didn't. It really takes a lot of pull to pop it off !! Don't know what could be loose but being what it is today... it could be anything. Goodluck !!
I hope you can help me. I have a 2007 Tahoe and I am desperately trying to find a 12V ignition switched wire that I can hook a GPS up to. I read a previous post you made way back in 2006. Where you stated "Also, the single orange wire is a 12V ignition switched source the customer can use for various accessories like a radar detector. Switch 1 on the DIP switch must be turned on to enable this feature. I spent several hours trying to find a switched 12V on my Denali, so this is a nice feature."
Where is this orange wire and what DIP switch do I need to move?
Would something like the dual fuse holder (see the URL below) work for you? There may be circuit design change from the 2006 to 2007 models... Hope this will work rather than having to change the DIP switch setting.
My automatic headlights sensor is working intermittently. It could be a bright sunny day and my lights are on. I can also tell because my Nav display is on Auto display and I get the darkened screen. When I shut down and leave to do something and come back a little later and the system operates like it should. Anyone else experience this?? I don't know if it's the dash sensor that is the problem or if there is some kind of relay tied to this system that is at fault?? I don't know if that sensor is easy to change out or if this would be a major dash removal project (I don't want them tearing into the dash because usually results in something getting loose and the start of dash rattles...). Any info is appreciated... THANKS.
You might try disconnecting the battery for about 20 minutes. Sort of a hard boot for the BCM. If that doesn't help, then probably have to have service look at it.
Funny you mention doing this with the battery because I just noticed it happening after I had a new battery installed!! Maybe it needed that longer time between the disconnecting of the old and hooking up the new one. I'll give it a try... THANKS!
Comments
Who reads those dam things anyway?
Sounds like a trip to the owner's manual is in order.
If it tests good, you may have a loose connection on the alternator. If not, it sounds like your alternator is going out. Get it replaced.
Gear Head.
They probably have a non aggressive programming so that people woudn't be complaining about thier trucks not performing like a truck.
If it spent more time in v4, you'd see a great loss of performance. In fact, if v4 is what you want and you don't care about your truck performing like a truck. You may want to get an economy car. ha ha!!
I know, we want the best of both worlds, an economy truck!!
I guess you could spend an extra $10k + and get the tahoe hybrid.
Gear Head.
May also have something electrically defective with a very large current drain, but you could check that by monitoring the amount of current draw coming out of the battery while the door is open. If you have a large current drain, then start pulling fuses to figure out which circuit is the draw (blower motors, headlights, heated seats, shorted diodes in the alternator, etc).
Ironically I've noticed almost a 10% decrease in avg fuel economy --- 17.8 >> 16.2 mpg
Is this a fluke, or does that black plastic trim piece below the front bumper have an actual purpose / effect on fuel economy.
Stupid question --- don't know. What do you think??
http://www.ipcw.com/
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?category|category_root|-26=Lighting&partf- amilyid=6045
As far as lowering kit, checkout the URL below for your reference. Of course, there are thousands of places out there that offers something similar... have fun finding what you want and to your taste.
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?category|category_root|-30=Suspension&cat- - egory|cat_-30|374=Lowering+Kits&canned_results_trigger=&partfamilyid=1331
The option I took was a set of Eagle Eyes from shopcreativecustoms.com. They are plug and play. Takes about 20 minutes to install and they look sharp.
I have it towed back to the dealer, The service team has not contacted me and
has not offered options how I can recoup my being immobilized for days now.
Anyone has similar problems with service and customer service with Chevy?
Any reports of similar problems with their 07 Suburban?
- pay cash (and the dealership gets its' cash for the car, or
- you can take out a loan with someone and you own the car when the payments are over (and the dealership gets its' cash for the car), or
- you can find someone to do a lease with and whomever wrote the lease owns the car when the payments are over (and the dealership gets its' cash for the car).
You deal with the service department on any problems the vehicle has. You get in the same service queue as everyone else, but actually the scheduled committed services are usually done first and any non-planned service (like you) get worked in if/when they can.
I've dealt with all kinds of service departments over the years. Some have loaner cars which they give out, some have rentals which you can rent if you need, others have a delivery van which they'll drive you back home for no charge, others have no benny services whatsoever.
If you get all your maintenance, oil changes, state inspections, tire rotations etc done with them, then they try to help you out more than someone who just drives/tows in off the street.
I have an '07, and other than the wiper heater cable recall....... have not had a single problem with it (knock on wood).
Has anyone had any experience removing this piece? Are there any removal instructions out on the web? It's a pretty tight fit so I don't want to just start prying on it and see if it pops off. Maybe there is a special tool??
Any help would be appreciated...
Thanks,
Greg
Don't know what could be loose but being what it is today... it could be anything.
Goodluck !!
I hope you can help me. I have a 2007 Tahoe and I am desperately trying to find a 12V ignition switched wire that I can hook a GPS up to. I read a previous post you made way back in 2006. Where you stated "Also, the single orange wire is a 12V ignition switched source the customer can use for various accessories like a radar detector. Switch 1 on the DIP switch must be turned on to enable this feature. I spent several hours trying to find a switched 12V on my Denali, so this is a nice feature."
Where is this orange wire and what DIP switch do I need to move?
http://www.jcwhitney.com/TAPA_CIRCUIT_WITH_DUAL_FUSE_HOLDER?ID=12;0;0;0;100001;P- roductName;0;0;0;0;2005174;0;0#