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Comments
http://users.erols.com/ahollow/
As far as the questions about my choice of circuit breaker, etc. I got my information from a local RV place and from Sure Power directly. They both recommended the #1602 isolator (up to 160 Amps) with a 120-Amp breaker. I guess maybe that is their way of making sure they are covered and they don't have me returning a fried isolator. I guess I'd rather have the bigger unit and know that I'm covered.
As to the air bags, I did install them on my old truck; it was just with only 200 miles on the new truck, I didn't want to be the one drilling the first holes. Installation through Camping World was only $72, so that wasn't too bad. The problem was all the stuff I bought in their store during the 2 hours it took to install the airbags. By the way, I agree with everyone else in here that airbags are definitely the way to go. With only 10 lbs in them, you don't even know they are there. With 60 lbs, I can haul 2400+ lbs, and still have a level and safe truck.
mictro, I would double-check on that 120-amp circuit breaker. Where in the line does it install? If you put that big a breaker between the isolator and your camper, even a direct short to ground probably won't trip a breaker that big. I've used 30-amp circuit breakers for years, and haven't popped one yet. Vince and stabbur are right, you don't want to go too large with a circuit breaker for these purposes.
. Gross weight the truck is 6600 lbs, so I am 420 lbs over. Is there that much difference between a 99 and my 00 Ram in regards to weight?
Your pictures look great, it's a nice rig. You did a good job documenting the battery. I have a similar setup with 2 under the hood and 1 in the camper, however I'm using the factory relay. It'll be interesting to see how long it lasts.
Those Firestone bags must lift better than the Air Lift brand most of us have. We run 55 to 85 psi on 3/4 ton trucks, and I see you only run 60 psi with less spring assist. Do you have a rear stabilizer bar? Have you replaced the factory shocks?
I have a Chevy and bought the factory battery cables for the auxiliary battery option. The positive cable has a fuseable link in it to protect against gross failures. It's cheaper than buying the 120 amp breaker. If you could locate a generic 100 amp fuseable link (they are common from the factory) you could use it to go from the alternator to the isolator.
For the isolator output to the camper a 30 amp cheap breaker is best. You don't want to go higher or it won't provide adequate protection.
Keep in mind tires are important. LT-rated tires should be considered a must with a heavy camper. There is a lot of weight and side-load while driving with a camper, and the tires need to properly carry this load. P-rated tires on trucks used other than status symbols are just a problem waiting to happen.
Also, I did install a Hellwig rear sway bar. It fit perfect and works great. The shocks are stock for now. I will look at upgrading those when I have more miles on the truck.
Tire ratings should never be exceeded for obvious reasons.
However, the max GVWR is for whole vehicle. This is the weight the brakes are designed to stop reliably. I view this as a serious issue. In normal, day to day driving it may be no problem, but in a panic situation, or needing maximum brakes coming down a long mountain grade, you may be in trouble. I hope this never happens, but I think you are on thin ice when you go well over the vehicles max weight rating.
Long term the extra weight may cause excess frame flexing and breakage.
I'm only slightly over (6500lbs on max GVWR 6400lbs) and I don't like this. I actually have a 3/4 ton truck on order so I will have plenty of margin on the truck ratings. I don't think the 100lbs over poses any risk, but my wife is a worry wart, and it weighs heavily on her. And the bigger, heavier truck doesn't bother me beyond the payments.
Mike L
One area I won't skimp on is tires. ahollowell is correct about the LT tires however I'd take it one further and say that you should stick with 10-ply E rated tires unless your camper is light. Unfortunately you can't get those in wide sizes but it's more important to not have breakdowns.
LS model
6.0L V8 5spd
Locking Differential
AC, PDL, PW, CC
Forged Aluminum Wheels
Camper Mirrors
Fog lights
MSRP $27786 GMS $24155
My current truck is a Chevy 1500 4x4 std cab longbed 4.8L and very similar equipment.
I don't know if I will be able to get my order through or not. It is very near the end of the model year (last date to order is Apr 7) and not many 3.4 ton orders get through. My dealer is the biggest dealer in the area, and they don't know if they can get an allocation or not. I'll know by the first week in April. 2 weeks. I'm concerned that next year Chevy will only offer the larger SD size 3/4 ton trucks, and I don't wan the larger size, just the capacity.
Except for color, transmission and a couple of options, this would be very similar to Vince's truck. But a lot lighter when loaded.
Mike L
If the seal just isn't doing the job and it's in good shape, I'd put a little rain gutter above the door to direct the water to each side. I'm sure you can find suitable L shaped metal at a home store. That won't help the water hitting the door from wind blown rain though. For that I'd put a strip of the curved metal sometimes used on the bottom of exterior doors for the same reason.
sel. I had no major problems with any of them but I didn't keep any of them over 36000 miles.
My popup weighs 1400lbs. With my wife, myself, and all of our food and supplies we just exceed the 2000 load capacity of our 1/2 ton truck.
You may need air lift or similar air bags to help the suspension, but you may be OK with the camper if you travel light (we don't).
Mike L
The door gasket is a piece of rubber and appears to be intact. True, the door had been replaced because the camper got hit and I believe the door has leaked ever since. I couldn't remember if the old door leaked at all. The work was done by the dealer and I have called and talked with the service guy. He suggested using some foam gasket material but I am not sure how it would fit. He also made the same suggestion you did on the rain gutter. He said other people have done this. I don't know if this is something I have to make or Lance sells this. I am not sure if I want to change the camper design because something is wrong with the door. I think the door sits out further than the frame and therefore rain falls on the door edge and follows past the gasket. I love the camper and would like to keep it but this leak could mean an early demize if I don't solve this. Currently I have a piece of plastic covering the opening. Sorry for the long post, any suggestions would be appreciated.
I would only add the rain gutter as a last resort because it wouldn't look right. The best solution is to get the door to mechanically fit correctly, then the seal can do it's job. Since the dealer did the work, they should fix it.
You may be right about the water hitting the top edge. But the rubber seal should still block the water. What if you only cover that very top edge with plastic and then shoot water at the rest of the door, does it still leak? It seems likely that water is running down to the bottom and getting in there. Is the seal being compressed correctly? Close the door on a piece of paper and see how easy it pulls out. Do that all around the door. Does the water have an easy path to run out of the bottom of the frame to the outside and not to the inside? If not, maybe a bead of silicon glue along the inside bottom of the frame would cause the water to run to the outside. Try adding some closed-cell stick-on foam weather stripping tape right on top of the rubber, at least for a test.
This is a very fixable problem. It'll just take some investigation and ingenuity. Don't get rid of a great camper for such a small thing. If you give up, take it to another RV repair place. Hopefully you will find that one guy who knows just what to do.
As I mentioned earlier, a 1200lb camper, gear and supplies and two people equals 2100lbs. So, we are running at 6500lbs, or just over the trucks ratings.
No confirmation on my order for a 3/4 ton yet. They are hard to get and it may not go through. I don't even know if I can afford it now that my wife is getting early retirement from HP.
I really need to win the lottery so I can retire also.
Mike L
Before you move those tie downs, there is another choice to consider. Several people here have frame mount tie downs and they are happy with them. The one problem with the Happijac system is that under abnormal loading the front brackets can bend back and dent the bed. This possibility drives some to the frame mounts. The one brand I'm aware of is http://www.torklift.com. Maybe other folks here will help out with info.
How is the truck handling the weight? Did you get the electrical all done? I assume that camper doesn't have its own battery. If not, do you have any plans to add one? It's important to have a dedicated one because it's quite easy to discharge the truck battery with lights, furnace etc. to the point where it won't turn over an engine. I'd say a second batt with isolation is mandatory. If you read the old posts then you know we've been through that topic a few times. Of course we could always do it again!
Where are you going to buy the air bags? I hope they have them for your truck by this time.
garyt4 Go with the torklift tie downs if possible, I got them on my truck and I think they are great they are a little pricey but you can't get a better tie down then with frame mounts, I know about your problem with after market parts I have a 2000 Ford F350 these trucks have been out for almost two years and I still come across the problem of parts being produced for it.
John
The stake pocket mounts you have are okay for temporary use but you should get something better. Then you wouldn't need to move the camper eye bolts either.
Your battery idea is fine if you intend to use it for short trips. I guess you aren't required to wire up brake lights and such so you really don't need to do any electrical work. Does the camper have a place for a battery? If not then how would you carry one? If you decide that you want the battery to charge from the engine it's not difficult to connect.
John, the bags come in two sizes for our application, 2500lb and 5000lb. They have some other models for lowered cars or other specialized applications. The two companies are as mentioned above. The Air Lift brand is sold at Camping World, Performance Products, and others. You can get the Firestones at JC Whitney and I'm not sure where else. Performance Products sells the 5000lb set for $258 but they tend to be overpriced. Hellwig sells the Firestones under their name, you can try http://www.heckethorn.com/ for a quote. Gary, Performance Products sells the 2500lb set for $196 just to give you a reference.
My order was accepted today. The last day for any orders to go in for this year's build is 4/3/00 and since Anderson only orders on Tuesdays, today was the last day for them.
The factory is still quoting 8-14 weeks, but some guys on the other discussions have been getting trucks in as little as 4-5 weeks.
More waiting.
2000 Chevy 2500 4x4
Regular Cab Longbed
LS
AC, CC, PW, PDL, Upscale seats
AM/FM w/CD
6.0L 5 spd
3.73 w/Locking Differential
Heavy Duty Suspension
Skid Plates
Forged Aluminum Wheels
Camper Mirrors
Fog Lamps
Dark Carmine Red w/Black Fender Flares
Graphite interior
MSRP $27768 GMS +3% pricing $24188
Mike L
You'll need those scissor steps for real now. Actually the 3 step size may be a little short, the 4 step is just right for mine. But mine goes up to the camper door so yours might work okay if you mount the bracket low on the bumper and use the bumper as the fourth step.
So no more worries about weight, only windows now. I know you wanted to order the aux battery option, are you going to put one in yourself? I forget how your camper is powered now, does it have an isolated battery?
I had to give up the aux battery. I think that's a mistake by the dealer, but not such a big deal. After all, I have your instructions on how to do it. My camper currently has an isolated battery, but I would like to move the battery out of the camper and gain the space. If we could move the water tank out we would be in heaven - spacewise.
I guess it is time to sell my El Camino. Know anyone who wants or needs a '72 EC 350HO(ZZ1), 4spd, 12 bolt, new interior with buckets and SS dash, SS hood, Rally Wheels. $10000 invested in parts - $5000 - - -?
Later,
Mike L