Here is the little table I made several years ago. I bought an unfinished pine round from Home Depot, cut two flats, routered the edges and finished it with polyurethane. The metal piece that receives the tube is available from the RV store for a few bucks. It's an easy project that really pays off.
Click to enlarge.
And just for fun here is a pic of my sink! Wow. Note the new units have a little more tasteful fake wood.
To all of you "real" campers out there, don't read this.
Do you ever plan to have a TV in your camper? If so I can show you a picture of the little entertainment center I built into the shelf to the upper right of my sink picture. It has a 5" Sony TV, a 12V VCPlayer, and the AM/FM CD player shown. I also installed an amplified antenna which works great (tied the FM into it also). I know you don't have a cabinet in yours but you do have the empty space. It's not the ideal location for viewing but oh well. A simpler solution is to buy a 9" TV/VCP combo and set it on the shelf above the sink. I didn't do that because it sucks too much power, takes up shelf space, and has to be packed away when you drive. I'll take a picture of mine sometime.
And no, I don't get out to nature just to watch TV. In fact I rarely use it. But it is nice to cozy up in bed on a stormy night and watch a movie. Once on New Years Eve I was in Las Vegas in the MGM parking lot watching live TV shots from the scene outside the door. That was pretty unique. By that time we had burned out on the crowds, NYE in Vegas is rather interesting. The strip is closed to cars and open to drunks. They even have beer vendors on the sidewalk!
I would like some serious input from folks out there that have done what I would like to do. I have a 96 Chevy 1/2 ton, ext cab, short box, with a payload of almost 1700 lbs. I want a small cabover self contained camper that weighs in around 1900 lbs wet. I also will be installing Ride Rites on this truck. I know I am overloading the rig. I believe allot of folks do this and I would like to hear what the outcome has been. A new 3/4 ton is on my wish list but not at this time. This camper will not stay loaded on the truck all the time and will likely only be used about 6 times a year on trips within 400 miles. What is the lightest self contained camper available. All comments welcome, pro or con. Thanks Louie.......
jraske, brutus, vince4, I talked to the dealer about the Air-Lift today and he said that it is a rubber thing inside the bladder that is different on the Lance version, not the plate like I had thought, sorry. He also quoted me $300 for the bags and $150 for the install. The compressor add-on is another $400, I'm not sure if that was installed. Sound reasonable? I may need to think about the on-board compressor option. It was more than I thought. I wondered how difficult it would be to install and if I could mail order the kit from somewhere. The HappiJac tie downs are $225 installed. The RV dealer's schedule puts me out in late May before I can get the truck done.
Vince4, thanks for the photos. The table is a nice idea and well done.
Louieb, look at Lance's Lite line. It might have something light enough. Go to www.lancecamper.com
Phoenix Campers has a self contained camper that they list at 1400lbs. I have a non-self contained Phoenix that is listed at 1300lbs and comes right at that weight.
From the website you can request literature. I think they are made to order and take 8-10 weeks.
I had some problems with mine, but they were not serious. Once I took care of the issues, the unit has been reliable and comfortable and has taken to the artic ocean and back.
They list a TC800 at 1380lbs dry with an optional toilet.
My dad used to have an RC Willett camper and he always said it was the best truck camper he ever had. He's now into bigger trailers.
Between my wife and myself (300lbs total) and gas and water and food and clothes and supplies, we add 800lbs to the camper weight. And we pack light. I suspect you will do about the same. So a 1400lb camper will be 2200lbs on the 1700lb payload.
We've seen worse. Take it easy, especially in the hills and mountains.
Thanks for the photos of the inside of your camper. Yes it looks almost exactly like ours. We have the teal green decor, instead of the blue or brown. Did you notice on the 915 Lite that the table swivels, so it makes easy access when sitting down. It looks like you have two doors under the sink, whereas, I have only one large one. The pantry & two drawers are over the heater like yours also. The shelf above the sink is for the TV/vcr, where I have cable/12V/110 hook ups. Since we have an extended cab over, all we have to do is sit the TV down on the carpet between the bed & the wall.It shouldn't slide, but I could always put a pillow next to it or something like that. I would like to see a picture of your set up though. I too don't go camping to watch TV, but like you say, on a stormy night, a good movie, why not! By the way, my stereo is located on the same wall as the fridge. Speaking of fridges, we went camping this Easter week end for the first time to try all of the appliances out, & I was really impressed with how cold the fridge kept things. In fact, not knowing how well it worked, I went to get a 7-UP, & sure enough, it was a 7-UP slush. When we arrived in camp Fri. afternoon on the Sacramento river, (Lovey's Landing)the back of the camper was facing to the west in direct sun, & yes , it got rather warm in the camper, so what better time to try the AC. It was wounderful!! We don't usually camp where there are hook ups, but now, were more apt to try one now & then. Is that a 12V fan I see on the counter? I don't want to drag this out, so I'll blab more tomorrow. You got it right Vince.. the air bags one buys from Lance, have a jounce bumper inside the bag to keep them from collapsing if you should lose air, & they are made expressly for Lance. Tomorrow.
Our Northstar cab-over camper dealer tells us that there are no air-bags available for the Tacoma (4x4 Xtracab TRD). Is this true? We have been planning to have overload springs installed, but would prefer the air-bags, if they are available, for their versatility.
Are you sure of the 1700lb payload? If you got that from a sticker on the truck then it's real but if you got it from any literature then it's probably for a base truck and you have to subtract for V8, air, etc. What is the rear axle rating?
You will be over no doubt but I think the truck will handle it okay. I had a non-self-contained cabover on a '70 Dodge 1/2 ton and it worked but just barely. I had to put overload springs and a rear sway bar and it still wasn't safe. Your truck is new enough that the brakes and engine are better to begin with.
One contributor to this board has a new Dodge 1/2 ton and he carries a full size Lance. He added air bags to handle the weight. Go back to post #56 for a picture of his rig and some discussion. Maybe send him an e-mail.
You should have a rear stabilizer bar to reduce the side-to-side rocking. And it's likely your shocks will be overwhelmed so the truck bounces and floats some. Other than that you just need to drive a little more carefully: brake early, use low gears on long downhill runs etc.
The dealer is inflating the prices a bit but that is to be expected. The non-Lance version of the bags are available on-line for $200-260 depending where you buy. Then shipping on that. I'm looking in my new Camping World catalog and they run $200-240 and $80 for installation. So you're paying a premium at the dealer but it may be worth the saved hassle of running around.
Now the compressor is another story. It sounds high but you need to get the model and if it is installed or not. For reference, Camping World sells the Load Controller II for $160ish and the I for $260ish. The light duty II kit is fine for pickups.
On the mounts, I paid around $100 for the front/rear set of Happijac mounts (no turnbuckles) at a Lance dealer. I think they wanted around $70 to install them, I can't remember exactly. So it sounds like your dealer is a bit on the high side.
If you are a PC member you could order the compressor kit right now for $152.10 dual guage or $89.99 single guage with $1 shipping from Camping World. That sounds a lot better than $400. The installation is a bit of work but it's not hard. Are you the work on cars type?
You might want to look at the SunLite line. I have the Eagle SB which is not fully self contained but has a 21 gal. water tank and space for a porta-potty. This is a Pop-UP model on a 1/2 ton Ram 4x4 ext.cab. Lightly loaded my rig weighs 7,000 lbs. I dont't have any special springs,shocks,or air bags and the truck handles fine. I am looking at getting a 3/4 ton just to carry more weight. Gross on my truck is 6600 with a pay load of 1475. Sun Lite does offer self contained models.
Thanks for the input from all, I plan on visiting the websites included and have emailed the author of #56. For a little more discussion, my actual payload is #1642, not 1700 lbs. I have been told that you can actually get more out of it by using your gavwr. In my case my frt is #3925 and rear is #3750, totaling #7675 and with my truck weighing in at close to #4950 this should give me close to #2700. Now understand I was told this by a camper salesman so I'm not sure if this is exaggerated or not. Any thoughts?
First, never believe a salesman who gets a comission on what you buy, and won't get hurt if the worst happens.
The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is for the vehicle, and the Gross Axle Weight Rating is for the axles.
You can load the axles to the GAWR without worry. That is the rating for the wheels, axles, bearings, etc. Overload may cause component failure.
However, if you load both axles to the max you have exceeded the GVWR which is for the frame and brakes. The brakes are rated to stop a certain weight. Above that weight the brakes will overheat and may not stop the vehicle. Picture brakes designed for a Ford Escort trying to stop a 1/2 ton pickup. Won't work. You could put bigger brakes on the truck, but it is cheaper to buy a 3/4 ton. If you can find a 3/4 ton wreck, you may be able to use the front brakes and the rear axle. Driving slower and using engine braking will help, but you won't have any reserve braking for emergency situations. You may never have an emergency and you may be OK. On the other hand ................
I'm not sure we want to contemplate the consequences of overloading and breaking the frame. We know there is some margin in the design of all the parts, but we don't know how much, and we don't know if your truck is one of the strong ones or one of the weaker ones.
I wouldn't want to push the GVWR more than 10%. So, if the vehicle is rated at 6400lbs, +10% equals 7040lbs. Actually, I'd get nervous before that, but that is the limit I'd be willing to try.
Air Lift does have bags to fit the 2000 4x4 Extracab Tacoma (Firestone doesn't)--the same ones they had in '98, rated for 2500#. Camper guy says there isn't enough room under the 4x4 for the air-bags which have been available until now--he's tried the Air Lifts. So unless there's something else out there, I'll have to go with the overloads. Thanks again.
Thanks for the info. I think the dealer was a little high also but they only sell and service the truck camper industry so I think it might be worth the extra money for less hassle. Plus, I assume I have to go to them for the Lance version of the bags.
As for my ability to install the kit, I could probably do it, if I understand the directions. Many times I find the understanding the instructions 1/2 the job !!! Did you install any part of it?
I went to the Air-Lift website and downloaded some info and will call the dealer for details. I will let you know.
I have a guy coming to buy my 93 F250. He was the second one to look at it. It is in such great shape that it shows well. The only downside to this is (very small) he is not buying it for the truck camper feature!! Too bad because it has the bags and tie downs already installed. I'm actually very excited because I pick up my new truck Thursday night. Timing couldn't be better !!!
The instructions from Airlift are real good, they make sure to point out any small item that might be different from one brand of truck to anouther and everything is spelled out exactly how it is to be done. I just installed mine last week and had no problem understanding the instructions at all. I don't know about the Firestone brand but from what I have heard they are the same as the Airlifts and should have just as good instructions with them. John
Almost all of the camper weight is on the rear axle so I don't think your method is valid. Someone here (Mike2 ?) weighed each axle of his truck with and without the camper. The front only went up by about 150lbs. If you could weigh the rear empty it would tell you how much you have to work with. As far as exceeding the GVWR, I don't completely agree with Mike. As he says there is some margin in the design and we don't know how much. However there is also no standard for setting the GVWR. Maybe your stopping distance will be longer than GM will accept, that doesn't mean the brakes will give out. They have to consider worse case scenarios when designing and rating and it's unlikely you will put it in one of those. You do give up a margin of safety no doubt but it isn't all or nothing. Maybe I got lucky but I got away with quite a lot on an all drum brake, 100,000+ mile mostly worn out 1/2 ton truck. Actually I'm sure I was lucky but that's another story.
Here's an idea. Go spend $30 and get one ton of rocks from a rock yard. Drive around for a few days and see how it does. Other than lean, the truck will handle the camper better. I know this from personal experience. I guess it's because the camper center of gravity is more forward. Now what you do with the rocks afterward is your problem...
I did not notice the swivel table as I could only peek in the windows. I don't care for the new method of having the table pole against the seat. I guess it keeps the table from poking out into the walkway but it makes the middle cushion almost unusable. It's true I rarely sit there with only 2 people but I do use it for leg and/or storage space which I think the table would block.
Did it come with a TV antenna? I added the Winegard amplified Batwing (same one Lance uses) and it works great.
Oh yes, you spotted my air conditioner sitting on the shelf. It does run on 12V but is a little lame in the cold air department. They had a little 12V table top swamp cooler at the RV store a few years ago. Very cute but cost about $300 so I passed.
clint, if Air Lift says they fit then why take the other guy's word? I hear Air Lift has pretty good phone support, why don't you give them a call and see what they have to say.
djpstman, I installed the bags and compressor myself. I do all that kind of stuff myself because I enjoy it and I do a better job (usually) than a disinterested mechanic. If you want to know what's involved in the compressor install I can give you some idea.
I sold a 89 F250 when I got my Silverado. Same as you, it was all set up for a camper and I ended up selling it to a company for use as a delivery truck. Kind of a shame.
I recently installed Firestone Ride-Rites on my 2000 F-350 dually, as with the others it was an easy job and well documented in the instructions. It only involved drilling four holes per side for the bags, and one for the inflation valve if you choose to have separate systems for balancing side to side. I used Camper's Choice, they were $203.95 plus $1 shipping. Just completed a trip of 4500 miles to pick up my new Lance and cruise around, they worked flawlessly.
The pole for the table is mounted off center, so when you turn it one way, it gives you room on the wall side of the table, & when you turn it back 180 degrees, it moves the table out of the walk way. Even with it in the walk way position,it still gives you plenty of room. It's really not a bad set up. The camper we bought came with the TV antenna, but it was an option. I have a fan just like yours, but it's 110. Works great if you have hook ups. I'll be going up to Paradise this week end to have something done on the camper, & maybe camp a night or two. Does your water fill spout have a locked door, or just a screw cap? Mine is just a screw cap, so I'm trying to come up with a way to secure it. Some kind of locking device. Any thoughts?
My water inlet is behind a locking door. Not that it is very strong but it is out of sight. Locking yours is a bit tough. You could a replacement plastic locking compartment like mine has and glue it to the outside of the camper so it covers the fill spout. That may look too messy though. You could put a gate valve on the inside. That would at least block access to the tank.
You should buy a 12V fan for those times you don't have 110. Although it sounds like you may be enjoying that AC too much to leave the 110 source in the summer! Did you get a Fantastic fan?
Thanks everyone for your input on the air bags. I'm not sure I have the heart to drill into the frame to mount the bags. I may have to depend on the dealer for that. If it wasn't for the drilling, I might be tempted. My fear is that I wouldn't get the drilled holes lined up with the bracket holes. The drill will start hopping all over the frame and scratch it all up.
I called the dealer today and he said the part number for the load controller is DR132 or DR134, he wasn't sure which type it was; i.e, Load Controller I or II. Anyone know which one that is? He said the cost is $275 and about $120 install. I think Vince thought it was the Load Controller I.
Thanks everyone for your input on the air bags. I'm not sure I have the heart to drill into the frame to mount the bags. I may have to depend on the dealer for that. If it wasn't for the drilling, I might be tempted. My fear is that I wouldn't get the drilled holes lined up with the bracket holes. The drill will start hopping all over the frame and scratch it all up.
I called the dealer today and he said the part number for the load controller is DR132 or DR134, he wasn't sure which type it was; i.e, Load Controller I or II. Anyone know which one that is? He said the cost is $275 and about $120 install. I think Vince thought it was the Load Controller I.
No, I didn't get the Fantastic fan. Maybe later. I think I will get a 12v fan though. Were going to camping world & Costco tomorrow to buy a few things for the camper. Sunday, I'll be heading up to Paradise.. found a camping site for the night with full hook ups for $15.90. Supposed to be around 80/85 degrees. Might just have to use a little AC. Why Lance didn't put a locking door on the water fill, is beyond me. It's not a major problem, but I want to be the only one to have access to my fresh water. I'll let you know when I figure it out.
I called the camper dealership again. They checked around and found that although the first attempts at using Air Lifts on the 4x4 Tacoma had failed (bags eventually twisting out of place), certain modifications have made their installation successful. Considering this history, I will be quite wary. I'll need proof that they really work.
Those are not Air Lift part numbers. They use 5 digits with all numbers. If it the light duty kit (the right one for you) then the price is outrageous. Take a look at the kits for yourself
Boy, good thing you have that AC in this sweltering weather. Maybe y'all ought to mosy on down to Texas where they do AC right!
That dumb cheap fan would be about $8 if it used 110VAC but since it's 12V they get about $35 if I remember correctly. I stewed on that a year before I broke down. Sometimes I can be cheap.
While you are in Paradise on Sunday, I'll be in Grass Valley. Funny. I should look you up sometime when I come up. My brother lives there.
If you really want them and they say they work then why not just do it. What's the worst that could happen? It's not thousands of dollars. Actually they should be fairly cheap because they are the light duty version. Springs would work too but you can't adjust them for the load (not much anyway) and they affect the unloaded ride. If the bags start to twist or something you'll catch it early because you will be watching. There is always some way to improve bracketing if that's needed.
Drilling the holes for the brackets is easy.All you have to do is use a C-clamp to hold the bracket where you want it then take a center punch and give it a good wack with a hammer to mark the hole location and give your drill bit a starting point so it won't "walk" all over the frame. You can even leave the bracket clamped to the frame and just drill right through the hole in the bracket. Once you have the first hole drilled put in one of the bolts and tighten it down a little to hold the bracket were you want it,then just drill the other holes through the holes in the bracket and you will have no problem with them lining up right. It's not that hard of a job, and if you have the tools to do it with why not save your self a few bucks and do it your self? John
Wife and I rode 4 hours north to New York and picked up the 11.5 foot camper. I was a little concerned, but the Happi jac tie downs, anti-sway bars, helper springs and elec plug all worked great. All great idea's from you guys including install tips. That Siverado IS the ticket, I didn't even know the camper was there, even was able to use cruise control most of the time, it is a bit mountanis here in Pa. AND... 13 mpg hauling the camper!!! Talk to ya later, Steve
Just wanted to thank everyone for their input regarding overloads and such. I havn't purchased a camper yet, but I did install my Ride Right air bags on Sunday. It went fine, about an hour and a half on the drivers side and a half hour on the passengers side. Goes a little faster once you learn a few tricks. The only problem/concern I have is the carriage bolts holding down the bottom bracket are easy to overtighten and I wound up bending my driver side bracket a bit. I don't think it will mater as the weight is always pushing down. I did learn that once the drill bit penetrates the frame rail, the fender molding is real close to your forehead. Its still a little sore! Advice: Lean your head against the fender before your bit breaks through. Hows that for using your head? I also want to mention that Firestone has fantastic customer relations. At least with me. My truck is dualed off and I needed an extra heat shield for the bag on the drivers side, the kit only comes with one. I called them directly, explained my situation the same day I ordered the kit and the only question asked was what was my address. The extra heat shield arrived priority mail before my kit did. Free of charge!
Well got my first trip under my belt. The Skamper and Tundra combo handled just fine. Logged 400 miles roundtrip and avg. 15.4 mpg. Got a little chilly in the catskills but the heater worked fine except for the fan noise [seemed like it kicked in every 15 min.]. Still haven't mounted the airlifts or found a permanent home for the battery yet but eventually. Just want to thank everyone for the great advice and info that is shared on this board.
I was wondering if you found out anything about the weight difference in the axles on your new truck? I am thinking about a 01 3/4 ton gas 4x4 Ouad cab. I am not sure what you got but I would think the axles would be the same thanks
Steve, that's good mileage with the camper on. I get around 10 or a little better. Our gas in CA gives less mileage now that it has MTBE in it. We've had the privilege of paying about 5-10 cents more for this special gas for a few years now. Of course I drive 65 to 70mph with the camper on, how fast did you set the cruise? Remind me what you have, this is the used camper you found, correct? I'm too lazy to look back, did you install a Hellwig sway bar? I think we discussed it but I don't remember the outcome.
louieb, good tip on the head thing. I guess you learned it the hard way! What camper are you going to get?
gary, the heaters do come on often. This is where insulation makes all the difference. Now you know why the battery is important. Do you have room under the hood for it?
Vince, No tellin, Im still up in air as to what to get. I'm actualy even looking at some motorhomes now. Guess I'm just lookin for a deal. My wife felt the camper I liked was too small. Gotta keep her happy!
The plate on the door of my 2001 Dodge 2500 quad cab SLT gives a GAWR of 6084 lbs. The brochure put out by Dodge Corp says that the rear axle for the Dodge 2500 quad cab is rated at 6200 lbs with a footnote that says that it is upgraded to a 7500 lb axle in the diesel and the V10. Because Dodge switched rear axle suppliers for the 2001 model year that began in January, I suspected that the company might have substituted an axle of lower capacity when they made the change. I have checked the door plate on two other Dodge diesel quad cabs from the '99 and 2000 model years and find that they gives the same rear maximum axle weight as mine (6084 lbs). These trucks were manufactured during the period covered by the Dodge brochure and I have concluded that they must have the 7500lb axle. This is about as far as I have gotten. I think that I have a 7500 lb rated axle. I'm just not certain. I went under the truck and got some numbers off the rear differential cover but cannot relate them to anything.
I also checked the max weight specified on the sidewall of the 265/75R16 tires (load range E). It comes to 6830 lbs total for the two rear tires. So even if I did have a 7500 lb axle, I would be overloading the tires if I tried to put 7500lbs on it.
Next week after I get the battery mounted under the left rear fender (no room under the hood with two batteries already in the diesel) I will stop by the gravel pit scale and get front and rear axle weight before loading the camper. Then in a couple of weeks I will reweigh with the camper on.
My guess is that the door plates on all Dodge 2500 quad cabs will specify a 6084 lb GAWR. You might check some door plates to see. However, if the brochure is to be believed, the V8 gas rear axle is rated at 6200 lbs vs 7500 lbs in the diesel and V10.
Yes I flipped the shock bolt too. I also moved the parking brake cable out of the way because the bar would bend it if it moved a lot. I screwed a 4" or so threaded rod into the cable clamp mounting hole, then put a few nuts on the end of the rod to secure the cable clamp.
Well I finally ordered a set of Edelbrock IAS shocks. I don't know if they will handle the load as well as Rancho 9000s but from what I've read here they should be better than stock for both loaded and unloaded.
After reading someone's story on the Silverado topic I tried www.carparts.com. Just like that other guy, I got a quote by e-mail and later got a live on-line quote for less. It went from $74 to $62 each just by asking twice, then I used a coupon to get 1/3 off so they came to $41 each. The coupon is in MotorTrend and is good through May for any order if you are a new customer. I didn't even have the coupon number but they gave me the discount anyway. That coupon is what made me do it now. For comparison, I got a quote from www.shockwarehouse.com for $69 each.
Well, ordered a 3/4 HD ext cab LB 2001 Silverado yesterday. Got the new AL headed 6.0L with 5-speed and 4WD and 4.10 Locker. Couldn't get a 3.73 with the locker.
No clue as to pricing. Kinda wondering if I should get the crew cab version instead but the new FORD SD LB CC is about 6 inches too long for my garage (my '89 F-350 CC fit...) and figured the Chevy would put me in the same position.
Sure love driving around in my 4.8L 1/2 ton, but just is a little too light for towing my 5,000 lb trailer when loaded with dirtbikes in the bed.
Hope to see it at the end of the summer or early fall....
Anybody add the camper wiring after they got their Silverado's without it? Got the TrailerTowing package but not the camper wiring...
I ordered my 3/4 Silverado with 3.73 and locker. 4.10 would have been ok, but 3.73 is standard.
I thought I was the only one with a 4.8L (5spd) 1500 moving up to a 2500 4x4 6.0L 5spd. Nice to know I'm not the only person who is not shiftless.
My dealer said I could not order the trailer towing package with a manual transmission. The only reason I wanted it was for the camper wiring.
Different dealers have different ideas as to what is or is not available. I don't think they even tried to order what I wanted, they just said it is not available.
Maybe it is a difference between the 2500 medium duty (same body as 1500) and the 2500 heavy duty (new body, same as 3500HD).
Good luck, you should be getting one of the first off the line. My 2000 2500 is built and should be at the dealer next week. I'm already buying parts for it.
I'll be adding my own camper wiring using the aux battery relay. Very simple to hook up and no cutting or splicing, and only 2 wires to run to the camper. I will install the aux battery (dealer said it is not avail in CA)later, when I'm back from vacation.
Another solution to your jack problem is to use the swing out brackets that are required with dually trucks. I think you can see a picture of them at www.lancecamper.com.
Do you know which body style the new truck will be? Is it like the 2000s or is it the new HD look?
Why didn't you order the camper wiring for $50 more? That way the work is done for you and is nice and neat. If you want a factory harness you can add it since it's a plug-in splice of the trailer wiring. It's a bit confusing to follow but I think it inserts into a plug connection near the rear bumper and then runs back up the frame to the front of the bed. GM seems to forget them frequently and the dealer is able to add it.
The Michelins say LTX A/S and mud and snow on the sidewall. They were the standard tires on this truck model when I ordered it.
Thanks for the suggestion about the swing out brackets. The jack brackets on my Sun Lite are mounted to the bottom of what the brochure calls "outriggers", not the corners of the camper the way the Lance jacks are mounted. To put it another way they are bolted through the plywood that forms the overhang above the truck bed. I think the spacer block will work fine to give the jack a chance to clear the tires.
Once we have the camper on it stays on for the whole trip. We leave the jacks at home - a bit risky if we have a major breakdown. Also the gray water tank will be in the way of the opening for the crank for the spare tire winch. In order to operate the winch to crank down the spare I will carry a vise grip and can turn the shaft from under the truck. (If I have the vise grip we won't have a flat!)
I've looked at adds listing that tire and have never seen a E rated 265. Maybe it's a special order. It's good to know I have a choice. Now if I could get a 285 I would be really happy. I think that's the best size looks wise.
Now I'm going to be out of control with the pictures for awhile.
Brutus, I did get the Olympus 360L ($299). So far I'm very happy, the pictures are sharp and clear even when they fill the entire monitor. It's 1.3M pixel which is actually more than needed for e-mail. The only real reason to go to higher is if you want to print large photo quality pictures. The only thing I don't like is that it has a serial port rather than USB. This is true of all the comparable cameras I saw.
Kodak has a new one out, the DG-215. It was the same price and had 2x optical zoom but there were some things I didn't like as well. It's worth a look if you want this $ range though.
I got the battery support, relay and the starter to relay cable (for my soon to be here 2500).
I've looked at it and I will mount the relay to the battery support. The wiring will fit, and I won't have to drill into the firewall not knowing what I will destroy if I drill wrong.
I would have done this to my 1500 if I had known the connector was there for the relay. Looks very easy to wire up from that point. Just run a fused 12V wire from the relay to the camper and run a ground for the camper. And we gain all the space the battery took from the camper (we do have a small camper and space is at a premium).
Just put a eagle sb on my tundra, v8, access cab. Got 14.5 mpg on a trip involving 4 mountain passes. trip went well, do not have airbags, but will put them on.
Comments
Click to enlarge.
And just for fun here is a pic of my sink! Wow. Note the new units have a little more tasteful fake wood.
Do you ever plan to have a TV in your camper? If so I can show you a picture of the little entertainment center I built into the shelf to the upper right of my sink picture. It has a 5" Sony TV, a 12V VCPlayer, and the AM/FM CD player shown. I also installed an amplified antenna which works great (tied the FM into it also). I know you don't have a cabinet in yours but you do have the empty space. It's not the ideal location for viewing but oh well. A simpler solution is to buy a 9" TV/VCP combo and set it on the shelf above the sink. I didn't do that because it sucks too much power, takes up shelf space, and has to be packed away when you drive. I'll take a picture of mine sometime.
And no, I don't get out to nature just to watch TV. In fact I rarely use it. But it is nice to cozy up in bed on a stormy night and watch a movie. Once on New Years Eve I was in Las Vegas in the MGM parking lot watching live TV shots from the scene outside the door. That was pretty unique. By that time we had burned out on the crowds, NYE in Vegas is rather interesting. The strip is closed to cars and open to drunks. They even have beer vendors on the sidewalk!
Anyway I blab, the pictures got me going.
Thanks
Louie.......
Vince4, thanks for the photos. The table is a nice idea and well done.
Louieb, look at Lance's Lite line. It might have something light enough. Go to www.lancecamper.com
You can check the website:
http://phoenixcampers.com/index.html
From the website you can request literature. I think they are made to order and take 8-10 weeks.
I had some problems with mine, but they were not serious. Once I took care of the issues, the unit has been reliable and comfortable and has taken to the artic ocean and back.
Another source is:
http://www.rcwillett.com/
They list a TC800 at 1380lbs dry with an optional toilet.
My dad used to have an RC Willett camper and he always said it was the best truck camper he ever had. He's now into bigger trailers.
Between my wife and myself (300lbs total) and gas and water and food and clothes and supplies, we add 800lbs to the camper weight. And we pack light. I suspect you will do about the same. So a 1400lb camper will be 2200lbs on the 1700lb payload.
We've seen worse. Take it easy, especially in the hills and mountains.
Good luck,
Mike L
You got it right Vince.. the air bags one buys from Lance, have a jounce bumper inside the bag to keep them from collapsing if you should lose air, & they are made expressly for Lance.
Tomorrow.
Gary-
You will be over no doubt but I think the truck will handle it okay. I had a non-self-contained cabover on a '70 Dodge 1/2 ton and it worked but just barely. I had to put overload springs and a rear sway bar and it still wasn't safe. Your truck is new enough that the brakes and engine are better to begin with.
One contributor to this board has a new Dodge 1/2 ton and he carries a full size Lance. He added air bags to handle the weight. Go back to post #56 for a picture of his rig and some discussion. Maybe send him an e-mail.
You should have a rear stabilizer bar to reduce the side-to-side rocking. And it's likely your shocks will be overwhelmed so the truck bounces and floats some. Other than that you just need to drive a little more carefully: brake early, use low gears on long downhill runs etc.
Now the compressor is another story. It sounds high but you need to get the model and if it is installed or not. For reference, Camping World sells the Load Controller II for $160ish and the I for $260ish. The light duty II kit is fine for pickups.
On the mounts, I paid around $100 for the front/rear set of Happijac mounts (no turnbuckles) at a Lance dealer. I think they wanted around $70 to install them, I can't remember exactly. So it sounds like your dealer is a bit on the high side.
If you are a PC member you could order the compressor kit right now for $152.10 dual guage or $89.99 single guage with $1 shipping from Camping World. That sounds a lot better than $400. The installation is a bit of work but it's not hard. Are you the work on cars type?
http://www.airliftcompany.com
http://www.firestoneindustrial.com/home.htm
The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is for the vehicle, and the Gross Axle Weight Rating is for the axles.
You can load the axles to the GAWR without worry. That is the rating for the wheels, axles, bearings, etc. Overload may cause component failure.
However, if you load both axles to the max you have exceeded the GVWR which is for the frame and brakes. The brakes are rated to stop a certain weight. Above that weight the brakes will overheat and may not stop the vehicle. Picture brakes designed for a Ford Escort trying to stop a 1/2 ton pickup. Won't work. You could put bigger brakes on the truck, but it is cheaper to buy a 3/4 ton. If you can find a 3/4 ton wreck, you may be able to use the front brakes and the rear axle. Driving slower and using engine braking will help, but you won't have any reserve braking for emergency situations. You may never have an emergency and you may be OK. On the other hand ................
I'm not sure we want to contemplate the consequences of overloading and breaking the frame. We know there is some margin in the design of all the parts, but we don't know how much, and we don't know if your truck is one of the strong ones or one of the weaker ones.
I wouldn't want to push the GVWR more than 10%. So, if the vehicle is rated at 6400lbs, +10% equals 7040lbs. Actually, I'd get nervous before that, but that is the limit I'd be willing to try.
Good Luck,
Mike L
As for my ability to install the kit, I could probably do it, if I understand the directions. Many times I find the understanding the instructions 1/2 the job !!! Did you install any part of it?
I went to the Air-Lift website and downloaded some info and will call the dealer for details. I will let you know.
I have a guy coming to buy my 93 F250. He was the second one to look at it. It is in such great shape that it shows well. The only downside to this is (very small) he is not buying it for the truck camper feature!! Too bad because it has the bags and tie downs already installed. I'm actually very excited because I pick up my new truck Thursday night. Timing couldn't be better !!!
John
Here's an idea. Go spend $30 and get one ton of rocks from a rock yard. Drive around for a few days and see how it does. Other than lean, the truck will handle the camper better. I know this from personal experience. I guess it's because the camper center of gravity is more forward. Now what you do with the rocks afterward is your problem...
Did it come with a TV antenna? I added the Winegard amplified Batwing (same one Lance uses) and it works great.
Oh yes, you spotted my air conditioner sitting on the shelf. It does run on 12V but is a little lame in the cold air department. They had a little 12V table top swamp cooler at the RV store a few years ago. Very cute but cost about $300 so I passed.
djpstman, I installed the bags and compressor myself. I do all that kind of stuff myself because I enjoy it and I do a better job (usually) than a disinterested mechanic. If you want to know what's involved in the compressor install I can give you some idea.
I sold a 89 F250 when I got my Silverado. Same as you, it was all set up for a camper and I ended up selling it to a company for use as a delivery truck. Kind of a shame.
Gary-
You should buy a 12V fan for those times you don't have 110. Although it sounds like you may be enjoying that AC too much to leave the 110 source in the summer! Did you get a Fantastic fan?
I called the dealer today and he said the part number for the load controller is DR132 or DR134, he wasn't sure which type it was; i.e, Load Controller I or II. Anyone know which one that is? He said the cost is $275 and about $120 install. I think Vince thought it was the Load Controller I.
I called the dealer today and he said the part number for the load controller is DR132 or DR134, he wasn't sure which type it was; i.e, Load Controller I or II. Anyone know which one that is? He said the cost is $275 and about $120 install. I think Vince thought it was the Load Controller I.
Gary-
Thanks for talking me through this.
http://www.airliftcompany.com/loadcon2.htm
The heavier kit is for big motorhomes. Camping World or Performance Products sells the kits on line if you want to compare.
That dumb cheap fan would be about $8 if it used 110VAC but since it's 12V they get about $35 if I remember correctly. I stewed on that a year before I broke down. Sometimes I can be cheap.
While you are in Paradise on Sunday, I'll be in Grass Valley. Funny. I should look you up sometime when I come up. My brother lives there.
It's not that hard of a job, and if you have the tools to do it with why not save your self a few bucks and do it your self?
John
I also want to mention that Firestone has fantastic customer relations. At least with me. My truck is dualed off and I needed an extra heat shield for the bag on the drivers side, the kit only comes with one. I called them directly, explained my situation the same day I ordered the kit and the only question asked was what was my address. The extra heat shield arrived priority mail before my kit did. Free of charge!
thanks
louieb, good tip on the head thing. I guess you learned it the hard way! What camper are you going to get?
gary, the heaters do come on often. This is where insulation makes all the difference. Now you know why the battery is important. Do you have room under the hood for it?
I also checked the max weight specified on the sidewall of the 265/75R16 tires (load range E). It comes to 6830 lbs total for the two rear tires. So even if I did have a 7500 lb axle, I would be overloading the tires if I tried to put 7500lbs on it.
Next week after I get the battery mounted under the left rear fender (no room under the hood with two batteries already in the diesel) I will stop by the gravel pit scale and get front and rear axle weight before loading the camper. Then in a couple of weeks I will reweigh with the camper on.
My guess is that the door plates on all Dodge 2500 quad cabs will specify a 6084 lb GAWR. You might check some door plates to see. However, if the brochure is to be believed, the V8 gas rear axle is rated at 6200 lbs vs 7500 lbs in the diesel and V10.
Good luck.
After reading someone's story on the Silverado topic I tried www.carparts.com. Just like that other guy, I got a quote by e-mail and later got a live on-line quote for less. It went from $74 to $62 each just by asking twice, then I used a coupon to get 1/3 off so they came to $41 each. The coupon is in MotorTrend and is good through May for any order if you are a new customer. I didn't even have the coupon number but they gave me the discount anyway. That coupon is what made me do it now. For comparison, I got a quote from www.shockwarehouse.com for $69 each.
No clue as to pricing. Kinda wondering if I should get the crew cab version instead but the new FORD SD LB CC is about 6 inches too long for my garage (my '89 F-350 CC fit...) and figured the Chevy would put me in the same position.
Sure love driving around in my 4.8L 1/2 ton, but just is a little too light for towing my 5,000 lb trailer when loaded with dirtbikes in the bed.
Hope to see it at the end of the summer or early fall....
Anybody add the camper wiring after they got their Silverado's without it? Got the TrailerTowing package but not the camper wiring...
I thought I was the only one with a 4.8L (5spd) 1500 moving up to a 2500 4x4 6.0L 5spd. Nice to know I'm not the only person who is not shiftless.
My dealer said I could not order the trailer towing package with a manual transmission. The only reason I wanted it was for the camper wiring.
Different dealers have different ideas as to what is or is not available. I don't think they even tried to order what I wanted, they just said it is not available.
Maybe it is a difference between the 2500 medium duty (same body as 1500) and the 2500 heavy duty (new body, same as 3500HD).
Good luck, you should be getting one of the first off the line. My 2000 2500 is built and should be at the dealer next week. I'm already buying parts for it.
I'll be adding my own camper wiring using the aux battery relay. Very simple to hook up and no cutting or splicing, and only 2 wires to run to the camper. I will install the aux battery (dealer said it is not avail in CA)later, when I'm back from vacation.
Mike L
Another solution to your jack problem is to use the swing out brackets that are required with dually trucks. I think you can see a picture of them at www.lancecamper.com.
Why didn't you order the camper wiring for $50 more? That way the work is done for you and is nice and neat. If you want a factory harness you can add it since it's a plug-in splice of the trailer wiring. It's a bit confusing to follow but I think it inserts into a plug connection near the rear bumper and then runs back up the frame to the front of the bed. GM seems to forget them frequently and the dealer is able to add it.
Thanks for the suggestion about the swing out brackets. The jack brackets on my Sun Lite are mounted to the bottom of what the brochure calls "outriggers", not the corners of the camper the way the Lance jacks are mounted. To put it another way they are bolted through the plywood that forms the overhang above the truck bed. I think the spacer block will work fine to give the jack a chance to clear the tires.
Once we have the camper on it stays on for the whole trip. We leave the jacks at home - a bit risky if we have a major breakdown. Also the gray water tank will be in the way of the opening for the crank for the spare tire winch. In order to operate the winch to crank down the spare I will carry a vise grip and can turn the shaft from under the truck. (If I have the vise grip we won't have a flat!)
Vince got a digital camera today.
Now I'm going to be out of control with the pictures for awhile.
Brutus, I did get the Olympus 360L ($299). So far I'm very happy, the pictures are sharp and clear even when they fill the entire monitor. It's 1.3M pixel which is actually more than needed for e-mail. The only real reason to go to higher is if you want to print large photo quality pictures. The only thing I don't like is that it has a serial port rather than USB. This is true of all the comparable cameras I saw.
Kodak has a new one out, the DG-215. It was the same price and had 2x optical zoom but there were some things I didn't like as well. It's worth a look if you want this $ range though.
http://members.home.net/vofm/airbags.jpg
http://members.home.net/vofm/caboverbed.jpg
http://members.home.net/vofm/frontright1.jpg
http://members.home.net/vofm/frontright2.jpg
http://members.home.net/vofm/frontleft.jpg
http://members.home.net/vofm/rear.jpg
http://members.home.net/vofm/tiedowns.jpg
Enjoy
(Brutus, I shrunk them down to a more reasonable size. They went from 200k to 36k and still look good.)
I got the battery support, relay and the starter to relay cable (for my soon to be here 2500).
I've looked at it and I will mount the relay to the battery support. The wiring will fit, and I won't have to drill into the firewall not knowing what I will destroy if I drill wrong.
I would have done this to my 1500 if I had known the connector was there for the relay. Looks very easy to wire up from that point. Just run a fused 12V wire from the relay to the camper and run a ground for the camper. And we gain all the space the battery took from the camper (we do have a small camper and space is at a premium).
Mike L