I priced several shops. Most were $229 installed. One was $299 installed and the one closest to home was $225, so I went there. When I went in he charged me $200, don't know why, maybe because I was buying the bed mat at the same time.
It must be a trivent, because it slides in one direction only.
The camper is a 1969 8.5' Travel Queen. I purchased it from the original owner last summer and we have been all over Idaho, Nevada and Oregon with it. The camper has an icebox, furnace, stove and oven, and a bathroom (no shower) It will sleep six if the 5th and sixth are kids willing to sleep in the fold-down overhead bunk. The only thing I wish it had was a shower. I can't my wife too far away from one or she makes things hard for me. My dogs don't seem to care. I just added some 110V oulets this weekend to accommodate the new TV we added and let me tell you, it features some seriously sturdy construction. 2x2 upper frame, tubular steel underframe, 3/4" birch plywood on the cabinets and closets, with 1/4" birch paneling. It is completely self contained with propane heating and lighting as well as 110V and 12V lights. I am actually going to the scales tonight to get a weight on it, but I have always estimated it at about 1300lbs. due to the amount that the truck would squat compared to the gravel I used to haul in it. The sticker on the truck says it can handle 1574lbs.
I have about 500 miles on a Lance 1010 and a 2000 chev K2500 extra cab. I know the camper is heavy but the truck handles it well except for a little leaning when you change lanes or travelling real uneven roads. I push the camper when its on the truck and you can make it rock just by pushing on it by hand. I have air lift air bags and the factory HD shock absorbers. Will the Ranchos help this rocking or do I have to install an anti sway bar?
I bought an F350 Superduty this year with the caper package and never got a "Camper Certificate" stating weights and center of gravity, etc. The dealer didn't know what I was talking about but I had one with my 93 that came as part of the "camper package". Did Ford do away with this? I thought I remember reading something like this on the Superduty chat but I couldn't find it.
Mike, I finally found an auto glass dealer in Yuba City that will install a CR Laurence Trivent for $226, & not only that, they come to your house at no extra charge to install it. Pretty good deal. Vince, do you have a slider, & if so, do you have a boot between the camper & the cab?
I too bought a 2000 F-350 recently and when I took delivery was missing the camper certificate. The Fleet sales manager and my salesman pleaded total ignorance and tried to tell me there was no such thing. I asked them specifically if perhaps the prep guys lost it while doing the delivery prep. This was after I had confirmed it was a piece of paper supposedly placed in the glovebox. When I made an issue of it and had them write it into the sales agreement, (that they would provide it within 30 days), lo and behold it was found in the prep area. This was after their continued assurances that the prep guys didn't even go into the glovebox, which I already knew was a lie. Anyway, sorry to get so long, but yes,indeed, the Camper Certification is part of the camper package.
I like this window better than the factory one in my 99.
The factory window can be opened from the outside in 5 seconds with a coathanger. I know, I did it when I locked myself out in Colorado. The factory window has a flexible rubber gasket that you can push the coathanger through, the new one has a metal frame with a rubber gasket inside the metal frame. No way to put a wire through the metal frame.
After you get your slider installed, be careful for the first 1-2 days. The 2 part adhesive they use to mount the window takes 48 hours to setup. Before that, you could drive down the freeway and have the window come out and land in the bed.
You also have to avoid pressure washes, slamming the door with the windows closed, etc.
Does anyone know where I can find GVWR and GCVWR for my rig? By the way, I weighed:
Truck (full tanks) - 4400 Truck and camper (dry but with gear)- 6320 Truck, camper, boat - 8380
By the time I add people, dogs, boat fuel, water, food and clothes, I am estimating GCVWR to be approx. 9500 lbs. obviously way more than my truck should be hauling. I just want to know how much over I am. As they say, "Ignorance is bliss". --Red
Dealer Owner's manual Shop Manual Sales Literature Library Owner's of the same truck
Your weights don't look too bad. 6320 is about the rating of my 1/2 ton Silverado. And the boat trailer is only 2000 lbs. And you can carry some gear/supplies in the boat to reduce the weight on the truck.
The truck is a 1987 GMC 2WD 1/2-ton with a 4-spd manual tranny and a 305 ci motor. The springs have been replaced with aftermarket 3/4-ton HD springs. The rotors, wheel cylinders, master cylinder, calipers and pads have also been replaced with HD parts. Unfortunately, due to the age, factory supplied figures are hard for me to find. The best I could do was to decipher the VIN to find that the GVWR is 6001-7000 lbs. I do not have trailer brakes, but 2000lbs is the cutoff in Idaho so I am right on the edge. The decal in the glove box lists the weight capacity for a slide-in camper is 1506 lbs.
It may not be possible (or meaningfull) to find GVWR for your truck. It has been modified away from factory specs.
You don't sound like you are grossly overweight in any case. My 1500 has a 1350lb camper rating, 2000lb capacity, and I run right at those numbers and top out at 6500lbs. 4500lbs shipping weight.
You have upgraded the brakes and springs. The axles always have reserve capacity even when the truck is loaded to the Max GVWR. It sounds like you have been using the truck like this for awhile.
Don't worry about it, enjoy it! If you are worried about things failing because of the weight, worry more about them failing because of age.
Mike, Thanks for the info. on the window. I will keep it under a 100mph the first couple of days. Did you get the slider so you could have access to the camper, or were there other reasons as well?
Red, that must have been one fancy camper when it was new. Now days those goodies are expected but I doubt that was true back then. Isn't the wood wonderful? I've seen an even older Airstream trailer and everything was beautiful wood inside.
satch, you will never get rid of the rocking but you can reduce it. A rear stabilizer bar is absolutely the next thing you should do. In my opinion it is a mandatory item to have with a big camper. Unfortunately GM doesn't agree so we have to add our own. There has been plenty of discussion here about brands and installation tips. Mine is from Hellwig. If you are serious about adding one let me know and I'll say more. The Rancho shocks should help some since I assume they are stiffer than factory when set to the stiffest setting. But they are really to recover from a lean with less rocking whereas the bar is to prevent the lean in the first place. I'd recommend the bar first and live with it awhile before doing the shocks.
Gary, I do have the factory slider. So I'm in good shape if I lock my keys in (as long as I have a hanger). I don't have a boot but will likely buy one like Mike has. It's smaller than what I would like so I haven't ordered it yet. I mostly want to reduce the wind noise with the slider closed. The camper creates a lot of turbulence back there. Only Dusty dog rides in the back and she can't fit up on the step to hang her head out so I don't need my slider open much.
I think the Ford 1/2 ton GVWR is 7,800, but I'm not positive. The full weight of your boat (or any trailer you pull) doesn't count towards your GVWR. The GVWR only counts the weight of the truck, camper, gear, passengers, fuel and other things in or on the truck. The only weight you count from the boat is the tongue weight. The tongue weight for conventional towing is probably around 15% of the trailer weight, give or take a couple percent.
It looks like your boat weighs about 2,000 pounds, which probably gives it a tongue weight of about 300 pounds. If you back out the 2,000 pounds from your 9,500 total figure, that gives you 7,500. Now add back in the 300 tongue weight. That puts your gross weight around 7,800 pounds. That's pretty close to the GVWR of a 1/2 ton without modifications. It sounds to me like you're running in a good comfort zone for your rig.
By the way, for the many Chevy fans in this topic area, the latest Trailer Life Magazine has a first look at the 2001 Chevy heavy duty 1 ton with the 305hp, 525 torque Isuzu diesel and Allison tranny. The article reserves final comments until it can fully test pulling a big 5th wheel, but essentially, they said there is likely a new king of the hill, at least for now. The GVWR is also alleged to be 12,000 pounds, which is 800 pounds more than my Ford Superduty 1 ton dually, which is currently tops amongst pickups. The Chevy is sounding pretty impressive.
1. Access to/from camper to cab. Not often, but it is nice to have.
2. Ventilation when the camper is off. I really like to open that window and have the airflow through. Actually, I used to get that with the camper on until I added the boot.
The GVWR for a 1/2 ton is more like 6400lbs. Ford and Chevy used to make a 'Light' 3/4 ton or a 'Heavy' 1/2 ton that was rated at 76-7800lbs.
This weekend I will do my first fuel fill on the new 2500. I'll let you know the mileage. And on Sunday, the first oil change (at 500 miles). Then throw on the camper and leave on vacation the 3rd of June. Hmmmmm - last year on the 4th of June we entered Alaska, 7 days and 3500 miles after leaving Santa Clara.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I weighed everything mostly so I knew what to look for in the new rig I will be getting in the next year. As stated, I have been hauling the present load around with no problems, so I'm not too worried. Trailer boating also reviewed the 2001 Chevy HD this month and liked it. I will be test driving the 8.1L and 6.6L diesel as soon as they start hitting the lots. Thanks again. --Red
You're right about the 1/2 ton GVWRs. I went into the Ford site. The F-150 has three payload groups. One is a 6,000 GVWR. Another is a 6,600 and the third is a 7,700.
The interesting part is that the 7,700 payload package includes bigger breaks, 4 wheel ABS, larger 7 lug 16 inch tires, beefier frame and suspension. It sounds to me like this is the former F-250 light duty they supposedly quit making last year after the first full year of the Superduty. You don't suppose Ford dressed down the F-250LD to make it look like a F-150, so they could say "most in class"? Ummmm.....
Heading down towards Homer tomorrow after work, so the truck and camper will get over 400 miles on it this weekend. The camper is locked and loaded. I've got it plugged in to insure a full charge on the battery. This is the third camping trip in the past four weekends. The plan is to get out of town every weekend through Labor Day.
I was going to forward you an e-mail I wrote about the Hellwig bar installation but you didn't list an e-mail address in your profile.
The Hellwig bar is okay but the installation is a bit tight as they made the bar too small. You have to play around a bit to make it work. The important tips are to reverse the left shock lower mounting bolt and to twist the bar on the axle a little. Also make sure the end link mounts rotate front to rear. This will make more sense once you see the thing. This is probably the best bar for the money as it's only about $130. Hotchkiss (sp?) sells front/rear sets for like $400+. Here are a few sites
If you really want to hear all about bars, open the archived Cabover Camper topic #891, select "see all responses," and use your browser's Edit Find function to search for "bar." That'll keep you busy for awhile. I'll send you the e-mail if you want.
I called Hellwig and they gave me the number for a distributer. I called the distributer and ordered the swaybar. When I got home the distributer called me and said if my 2500 was built before Jan,1 2000 they had a sway bar to to ship. My truck was built in April and something is different and Hellwig won't be producing these for a month. If you have any more info my e-mail is beartrap@win.bright.net.
Hey, I'm jealous man! First weekend in June we leave on vacation. That is our first time out of town since out snow trip 2(with wife).
There always seems to be some reason we can't go.
Vince,
First tank - 13mpg or better. Depends on whether it was completely full or not. It went 100miles/quarter tank. Just like my 1500 with the camper on. But, it started at 'F' while the 1500 takes 100 miles to reach 'F'. I'll find out this weekend how long it takes to reach 'F'. Then change the oil, and next weekend we're gone for 3 weeks.
I got my aux battery installed! I fit a small, high powered expensive Oddysey battery.
HxLxW 5.8x7.05x6.7" 470CCA
$180
It fits under the fender brace easily. I had to make brackets for it. Sure it small, but our needs are limited, some lighting and the fan on the furnace.
I needed the space inside the camper. We are taking our old computer to my brother in Nebraska, so I wanted to get the battery out of there.
I also got around 13mpg on my first tank. I've never done it again around town. I guess I was using a particularly light foot during break-in.
I'm amazed you found a battery that fits under the bracket. I'd like to snap a picture of it to add to my new web page. Someone sent me an e-mail asking for that old write up and since I have pictures now I used this topic to learn how to improve my web creation skills (still infantile). I'll add your battery findings.
If you look at that bracket you'll notice the firewall mount is to some rather flimsy sheetmetal. Since that doesn't offer much rigidity, maybe it's there for crash performance. In that case the battery may serve a similar function so the bracket is not necessary. What do you think?
I got the PC925 battery. It fits easily under the brace (5.0" tall at that point). I compared batteries at the auto parts store - 470cca is equal to a full size battery with a 24-36 month warranty. Typical 72 month warranty batttery was 600cca, but they are not deep cycle batteries and this on is rated for 400 deep cycles.
If I have the time I will take a couple of digital pictures and email them to you. OHHH---that might be difficult, I boxed up my computer already. Maybe I can use the camera at work at lunch time.
On the 2nd tank it looks like I'm getting 50 miles more to every mark on the gauge. I should fill it up later this week since we leave on Saturday and I like to leave with a full tank.
With the camper on, the truck lists slightly to the drivers side. Most of the weighty stuff (refrig, water heater, water pump, furnace) is on that side. I ordered the air lifts for it. I also want to use them to help level the truck at campsites. As long as the back is down, I can raise it a couple of inches with the air lifts.
The truck runs better with the camper on. The granny low that seemed too low seems perfect, the shocks that seemed almost too harsh seem great. Limited sway from the camper (less than the 1500 with the sway bar). Plus, I'm really starting to like the color.
I thought the popup would be about the right ballast to smooth out the new truck. Since I know it doesn't squat, actually I bet it's not even level, you won't get a nice range with the air bags because you can only go up. That will help if the ground cooperates. But to use them in camp you need a compressor. Are you going to buy one or just carry a bike pump?
Did you order the heavy or light duty bags? Did you order them from Jegs?
My dad may be interested in the battery. I'm not sure since he needs two he may want both new. But if the price is right...
Actually I'm about 1" low in the rear with the camper empty. Minimum air pressure will probably take care of that. Of course, we are starting to fill the camper up. For campground leveling, I just have to make sure the rear is not high and I can level it with air.
I have a small air compressor that I used with the other air lifts. Its noisy, but it works to level the camper.
I got the heavy duty bags from Camper World. With the 10% discount and $1 shipping it was about the same. I will probably add the in cab dual control system later.
The battery is sitting on my workbench now. It is one year old, and has had 1 deep cycle discharge when I left the refrig on 12V for too long. Make me an offer I would hate to have to throw it away.
Boy it's quiet here. I'll be out traveling the world until the 26th. Hopefully everyone will be back by then and we will all have wonderful stories to tell.
Still no fish. No stories to tell. Well, none that I want to tell. Early season kinks. I've been out four of the past five weekends. New Optima deep cycle battery died on the second night of a trip. Night temps in the 40s, so furnace was being used. I had run the generator during the day, which should have been charging the battery. At the same time, after getting the battery charged again by running the truck, the fan and light on the range hood would not work. I figured it was somehow related.
As it turned out, there were actually multiple issues. First, some bozo didn't tighten down the terminals when installing the new battery. A couple of jaunts down three miles of rough dirt road back to the fishing hole further loosened the already loose cables to battery. Oh yeah, I guess I was that bozo. Anyway, that may have prevented a charge to the battery from the generator or the truck battery and it may have also been what caused the second problem.
The second problem was that I was able to crank my generator from the button inside the camper, but the generator did not get AC power to the camper. The frig didn't flip over to AC and the microwave and AC would not work.....AND, the generator would not charge the battery. I flipped all the breakers in the camper, but there was a separate breaker outside on the generator itself that flipped itself off, maybe because it got a power surge of some kind because of the loose wires on the battery. The third problem (the range fan and light) was a fuse.
So, the resolution to all problems cost less than $1.....and one rather cool night without a furnace. Fortunately, I have plenty of blankets and sleeping bags for just such a situation. Live and learn. It won't be the last time that a simple solution takes me awhile to figure out and it certainly won't be the last time that I am the cause the problem. This past weekend everything worked flawlessly again.
Heading south to Ninilchik to look for Kings this weekend. Went north to Willow last weekend, but the Kings still were not there. Went south Memorial weekend, but very few Kings were in the rivers, although some of the trollers in the saltwater were catching them.
Enjoying all the postings for all the big campers, on a smaller scale I am heading out on my inaugural camping trip with my new 8.0 self contained Slumber Queen on my 1999 Dakota. Got the Dakota HD version with everything but it still squats more than I like even with the 2000# payload package. Camper weighs in just shy of 1400# with A/C and am going to get some air bags, although couldn't get them installed before this trip so will have them for the next trip. Have hit the road a couple of times to relatives locally 1.5 hrs aways and it seems to do fine on the road and the 5.2l has no problems with the hills in the Seattle area, should be interesting to see how it does on the mountain passes, I'm expecting a 65 mph cruise but I'm sure it will cost me, getting around 13 fully loaded with the camper. I'll hope for some better weather East of the Mountains.
I hauled the combo of my 11.5 foot truck camper and 24' pontoon boat to Elk Neck State Park,Md. on the 2500 Siverado. Great place I can crab, fish large stripers and catfish and it's only 1 1/2 from the Harrisburg, Pa area. Used tow/haul and 3rd gear and it went great. And 10 mpg. I'm happy. Went to the parks boat launch, my choc.lab got out, saw a group of geese and took off at 120 mph after them! Problem was when they all went down the dock and they got to the end of it,they took off and he got a suprize bath. That was a Kodak moment. Next trip is just the boat to Canada and then the camper to the inside of the Pocono race track. They even have shower's in there. Should be a great view from on top of the camper!
Thanks for the photo of the entertainment center. Looks great! Seems like everyone is going somewhere. If your still around, where are you headed? We might be moving from the foothills to the cold country. Thats the only traveling we'll be doing. Should know sometime next week. Think I'll go with the Hellwig sway bar & save myself a few $$$$$$, if they have the right part that is. Have a good trip. Oh by the way, I think I saw Mike just outside of Sacramento last Sat. the 3rd on his way to Iowa. Not too sure, but it was a new carmine red metallic Silverado, with a Phoenix pop-up camper headed east.
We were passing through there on Sat the 3rd. Good eye!!
I have the Hellwig bar I took off my 1500, and Vince said it is the same bar for the 2500s. I don't need it on the 2500, so it is available for 1/2 price if you want it.
But, I won't be back until the weekend of the 24th/25th.
I don't know when I will get a phone hookup to log in again.
I forgot to mention, most of the miles were run with AC on and CC active in the mountains. I had to turn of the CC and downshift for some of the mountain passes.
I had a vibration and stopped at a local Iowa dealer and got all 4 wheels rebalanced. It seems ok now.
I just returned from 4 days in Wisconsin visiting family. Had a great time fishing on the lake my Uncle lives next to. Tomorrow I'm off on a business trip to Singapore and Malaysia for two weeks. Don't know if I'll have any internet play time.
Mike your mileage is very good. I get about that with no load. By the way, I have a magazine article I want you to read for a possible trip idea. It's about a trip to the north edge of the Grand Canyon via dirt. Ask me about it when you return.
Brutus, oops. Things work better when correctly installed don't they?
rick63, is that a hardside or popup camper? Have you been reading here about air bags so you know all you need to know?
Is closed for probably 2 months due to no rain. I live in Flagstaff and have driven lots of the backcountry around N.AZ. Let me know if yawl plan a trip, can give you some pointers (like stay at Fire Point on the north rim)....
Vince4, Its is a hard side, I looked at one or two soft sides but thought they were makeshift at best, beside they weighed in as much as or more than the hard side model I got. All that mechanical crap for raising and lowering weighs a fair amount I would imagine. I am encouraged by what I read here regarding air bags, although, one place I called said they did not have air bags that would fit the Dakota. Not sure if they were referring to clearance between the side of the frame and the tires or between the axle and the frame, I have around 6 or 7 inches between the frame and axle. The local Les Schwab dealer did not blink when I told him my truck type so I will be heading there in the next week or two.
Camping was successful and a lot of fun, we ended up going self contained by accident but everything worked per design so that was good.
Give my regards to Kuala Lumpur and be sure to check out the Petronas Towers, have you been to Malaysia before ???
Comments
It must be a trivent, because it slides in one direction only.
Mike L
I just added some 110V oulets this weekend to accommodate the new TV we added and let me tell you, it features some seriously sturdy construction. 2x2 upper frame, tubular steel underframe, 3/4" birch plywood on the cabinets and closets, with 1/4" birch paneling. It is completely self contained with propane heating and lighting as well as 110V and 12V lights.
I am actually going to the scales tonight to get a weight on it, but I have always estimated it at about 1300lbs. due to the amount that the truck would squat compared to the gravel I used to haul in it. The sticker on the truck says it can handle 1574lbs.
P.S. Call me Red.
Boise, ID.
Vince has a Lance (915?) on his 2500, and he has a sway bar and stock shocks with good success.
Good Luck,
Mike L
Vince, do you have a slider, & if so, do you have a boot between the camper & the cab?
Gary-
I like this window better than the factory one in my 99.
The factory window can be opened from the outside in 5 seconds with a coathanger. I know, I did it when I locked myself out in Colorado. The factory window has a flexible rubber gasket that you can push the coathanger through, the new one has a metal frame with a rubber gasket inside the metal frame. No way to put a wire through the metal frame.
Nice, clean installation.
Later,
Mike L
After you get your slider installed, be careful for the first 1-2 days. The 2 part adhesive they use to mount the window takes 48 hours to setup. Before that, you could drive down the freeway and have the window come out and land in the bed.
You also have to avoid pressure washes, slamming the door with the windows closed, etc.
But, I think you'll like the window.
Mike L
Truck (full tanks) - 4400
Truck and camper (dry but with gear)- 6320
Truck, camper, boat - 8380
By the time I add people, dogs, boat fuel, water, food and clothes, I am estimating GCVWR to be approx. 9500 lbs. obviously way more than my truck should be hauling. I just want to know how much over I am. As they say, "Ignorance is bliss". --Red
Make, Model, Year?
The places I'd look (besides here) are:
Dealer
Owner's manual
Shop Manual
Sales Literature
Library
Owner's of the same truck
Your weights don't look too bad. 6320 is about the rating of my 1/2 ton Silverado. And the boat trailer is only 2000 lbs. And you can carry some gear/supplies in the boat to reduce the weight on the truck.
Does your boat trailer have brakes?
Mike L
Unfortunately, due to the age, factory supplied figures are hard for me to find. The best I could do was to decipher the VIN to find that the GVWR is 6001-7000 lbs.
I do not have trailer brakes, but 2000lbs is the cutoff in Idaho so I am right on the edge. The decal in the glove box lists the weight capacity for a slide-in camper is 1506 lbs.
You don't sound like you are grossly overweight in any case. My 1500 has a 1350lb camper rating, 2000lb capacity, and I run right at those numbers and top out at 6500lbs. 4500lbs shipping weight.
You have upgraded the brakes and springs. The axles always have reserve capacity even when the truck is loaded to the Max GVWR. It sounds like you have been using the truck like this for awhile.
Don't worry about it, enjoy it! If you are worried about things failing because of the weight, worry more about them failing because of age.
Good Luck,
Mike L
Gary-
satch, you will never get rid of the rocking but you can reduce it. A rear stabilizer bar is absolutely the next thing you should do. In my opinion it is a mandatory item to have with a big camper. Unfortunately GM doesn't agree so we have to add our own. There has been plenty of discussion here about brands and installation tips. Mine is from Hellwig. If you are serious about adding one let me know and I'll say more. The Rancho shocks should help some since I assume they are stiffer than factory when set to the stiffest setting. But they are really to recover from a lean with less rocking whereas the bar is to prevent the lean in the first place. I'd recommend the bar first and live with it awhile before doing the shocks.
Gary, I do have the factory slider. So I'm in good shape if I lock my keys in (as long as I have a hanger). I don't have a boot but will likely buy one like Mike has. It's smaller than what I would like so I haven't ordered it yet. I mostly want to reduce the wind noise with the slider closed. The camper creates a lot of turbulence back there. Only Dusty dog rides in the back and she can't fit up on the step to hang her head out so I don't need my slider open much.
3/4 ton: 8,800 pounds
1 ton: 9,900 pounds
1 ton dually: 11,200 pounds
I think the Ford 1/2 ton GVWR is 7,800, but I'm not positive. The full weight of your boat (or any trailer you pull) doesn't count towards your GVWR. The GVWR only counts the weight of the truck, camper, gear, passengers, fuel and other things in or on the truck. The only weight you count from the boat is the tongue weight. The tongue weight for conventional towing is probably around 15% of the trailer weight, give or take a couple percent.
It looks like your boat weighs about 2,000 pounds, which probably gives it a tongue weight of about 300 pounds. If you back out the 2,000 pounds from your 9,500 total figure, that gives you 7,500. Now add back in the 300 tongue weight. That puts your gross weight around 7,800 pounds. That's pretty close to the GVWR of a 1/2 ton without modifications. It sounds to me like you're running in a good comfort zone for your rig.
By the way, for the many Chevy fans in this topic area, the latest Trailer Life Magazine has a first look at the 2001 Chevy heavy duty 1 ton with the 305hp, 525 torque Isuzu diesel and Allison tranny. The article reserves final comments until it can fully test pulling a big 5th wheel, but essentially, they said there is likely a new king of the hill, at least for now. The GVWR is also alleged to be 12,000 pounds, which is 800 pounds more than my Ford Superduty 1 ton dually, which is currently tops amongst pickups. The Chevy is sounding pretty impressive.
1. Access to/from camper to cab. Not often, but it is nice to have.
2. Ventilation when the camper is off. I really like to open that window and have the airflow through. Actually, I used to get that with the camper on until I added the boot.
The GVWR for a 1/2 ton is more like 6400lbs. Ford and Chevy used to make a 'Light' 3/4 ton or a 'Heavy' 1/2 ton that was rated at 76-7800lbs.
This weekend I will do my first fuel fill on the new 2500. I'll let you know the mileage. And on Sunday, the first oil change (at 500 miles). Then throw on the camper and leave on vacation the 3rd of June. Hmmmmm - last year on the 4th of June we entered Alaska, 7 days and 3500 miles after leaving Santa Clara.
Later,
Mike L
Thanks
Satch
Trailer boating also reviewed the 2001 Chevy HD this month and liked it. I will be test driving the 8.1L and 6.6L diesel as soon as they start hitting the lots. Thanks again.
--Red
The interesting part is that the 7,700 payload package includes bigger breaks, 4 wheel ABS, larger 7 lug 16 inch tires, beefier frame and suspension. It sounds to me like this is the former F-250 light duty they supposedly quit making last year after the first full year of the Superduty. You don't suppose Ford dressed down the F-250LD to make it look like a F-150, so they could say "most in class"? Ummmm.....
Heading down towards Homer tomorrow after work, so the truck and camper will get over 400 miles on it this weekend. The camper is locked and loaded. I've got it plugged in to insure a full charge on the battery. This is the third camping trip in the past four weekends. The plan is to get out of town every weekend through Labor Day.
The Hellwig bar is okay but the installation is a bit tight as they made the bar too small. You have to play around a bit to make it work. The important tips are to reverse the left shock lower mounting bolt and to twist the bar on the axle a little. Also make sure the end link mounts rotate front to rear. This will make more sense once you see the thing. This is probably the best bar for the money as it's only about $130. Hotchkiss (sp?) sells front/rear sets for like $400+. Here are a few sites
http://www.hellwigfirst.com
http://www.ipdusa.com
You can buy the Hellwig from
www.jcwhitney.com
http://www.heckethorn.com
If you really want to hear all about bars, open the archived Cabover Camper topic #891, select "see all responses," and use your browser's Edit Find function to search for "bar." That'll keep you busy for awhile. I'll send you the e-mail if you want.
Really appreciate the info.
Thanks
Ronnie
Hey, I'm jealous man! First weekend in June we leave on vacation. That is our first time out of town since out snow trip 2(with wife).
There always seems to be some reason we can't go.
Vince,
First tank - 13mpg or better. Depends on whether it was completely full or not. It went 100miles/quarter tank. Just like my 1500 with the camper on. But, it started at 'F' while the 1500 takes 100 miles to reach 'F'. I'll find out this weekend how long it takes to reach 'F'. Then change the oil, and next weekend we're gone for 3 weeks.
Later,
Mike L
HxLxW 5.8x7.05x6.7" 470CCA
$180
It fits under the fender brace easily. I had to make brackets for it. Sure it small, but our needs are limited, some lighting and the fan on the furnace.
I needed the space inside the camper. We are taking our old computer to my brother in Nebraska, so I wanted to get the battery out of there.
Mike L
I'm curious to hear what is so much different on your truck that they had to change the bar. Maybe they'll do a better job this time.
I'm amazed you found a battery that fits under the bracket. I'd like to snap a picture of it to add to my new web page. Someone sent me an e-mail asking for that old write up and since I have pictures now I used this topic to learn how to improve my web creation skills (still infantile). I'll add your battery findings.
If you look at that bracket you'll notice the firewall mount is to some rather flimsy sheetmetal. Since that doesn't offer much rigidity, maybe it's there for crash performance. In that case the battery may serve a similar function so the bracket is not necessary. What do you think?
Silverado Auxiliary Battery Installation Page:
http://members.home.net/vofm/battery.html
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/home.htm
I got the PC925 battery. It fits easily under the brace (5.0" tall at that point). I compared batteries at the auto parts store - 470cca is equal to a full size battery with a 24-36 month warranty. Typical 72 month warranty batttery was 600cca, but they are not deep cycle batteries and this on is rated for 400 deep cycles.
If I have the time I will take a couple of digital pictures and email them to you. OHHH---that might be difficult, I boxed up my computer already. Maybe I can use the camera at work at lunch time.
On the 2nd tank it looks like I'm getting 50 miles more to every mark on the gauge. I should fill it up later this week since we leave on Saturday and I like to leave with a full tank.
With the camper on, the truck lists slightly to the drivers side. Most of the weighty stuff (refrig, water heater, water pump, furnace) is on that side. I ordered the air lifts for it. I also want to use them to help level the truck at campsites. As long as the back is down, I can raise it a couple of inches with the air lifts.
The truck runs better with the camper on. The granny low that seemed too low seems perfect, the shocks that seemed almost too harsh seem great. Limited sway from the camper (less than the 1500 with the sway bar). Plus, I'm really starting to like the color.
Later,
Mike L
1/2 price - $65 + shipping (it is heavy, shipping will be a bunch; local is better)
Mike L
Make Offer.
Mike L
Did you order the heavy or light duty bags? Did you order them from Jegs?
My dad may be interested in the battery. I'm not sure since he needs two he may want both new. But if the price is right...
I have a small air compressor that I used with the other air lifts. Its noisy, but it works to level the camper.
I got the heavy duty bags from Camper World. With the 10% discount and $1 shipping it was about the same. I will probably add the in cab dual control system later.
The battery is sitting on my workbench now. It is one year old, and has had 1 deep cycle discharge when I left the refrig on 12V for too long. Make me an offer I would hate to have to throw it away.
Mike L
Mike L
No luck on the digital photo yet.
Mike L
http://members.home.net/vofm/bar.html
http://members.home.net/vofm/tv.jpg
As it turned out, there were actually multiple issues. First, some bozo didn't tighten down the terminals when installing the new battery. A couple of jaunts down three miles of rough dirt road back to the fishing hole further loosened the already loose cables to battery. Oh yeah, I guess I was that bozo. Anyway, that may have prevented a charge to the battery from the generator or the truck battery and it may have also been what caused the second problem.
The second problem was that I was able to crank my generator from the button inside the camper, but the generator did not get AC power to the camper. The frig didn't flip over to AC and the microwave and AC would not work.....AND, the generator would not charge the battery. I flipped all the breakers in the camper, but there was a separate breaker outside on the generator itself that flipped itself off, maybe because it got a power surge of some kind because of the loose wires on the battery. The third problem (the range fan and light) was a fuse.
So, the resolution to all problems cost less than $1.....and one rather cool night without a furnace. Fortunately, I have plenty of blankets and sleeping bags for just such a situation. Live and learn. It won't be the last time that a simple solution takes me awhile to figure out and it certainly won't be the last time that I am the cause the problem. This past weekend everything worked flawlessly again.
Heading south to Ninilchik to look for Kings this weekend. Went north to Willow last weekend, but the Kings still were not there. Went south Memorial weekend, but very few Kings were in the rivers, although some of the trollers in the saltwater were catching them.
First tank= 13.3mpg'
2nd tank = 15.1 mpg!
3rd tank = 14.3 mpg
4th tank = 14.1 mpg
5th tank = 14.8 mpg
Much better than I expected, only about 1mpg less than my 4.8L 5spd 99 Silverado with the same pop up camper.
I was expecting 12mpg so I am very happy with 14.5 average.
More to report when I get back to work and can use a real computer instead of this laptop.
Mike L.
Used tow/haul and 3rd gear and it went great. And 10 mpg. I'm happy.
Went to the parks boat launch, my choc.lab got out, saw a group of geese and took off at 120 mph after them! Problem was when they all went down the dock and they got to the end of it,they took off and he got a suprize bath. That was a Kodak moment.
Next trip is just the boat to Canada and then the camper to the inside of the Pocono race track. They even have shower's in there. Should be a great view from on top of the camper!
Gary-
We were passing through there on Sat the 3rd. Good eye!!
I have the Hellwig bar I took off my 1500, and Vince said it is the same bar for the 2500s. I don't need it on the 2500, so it is available for 1/2 price if you want it.
But, I won't be back until the weekend of the 24th/25th.
I don't know when I will get a phone hookup to log in again.
Mike L
I had a vibration and stopped at a local Iowa dealer and got all 4 wheels rebalanced. It seems ok now.
Mike L.
Mike your mileage is very good. I get about that with no load. By the way, I have a magazine article I want you to read for a possible trip idea. It's about a trip to the north edge of the Grand Canyon via dirt. Ask me about it when you return.
Brutus, oops. Things work better when correctly installed don't they?
rick63, is that a hardside or popup camper? Have you been reading here about air bags so you know all you need to know?
Its is a hard side, I looked at one or two soft sides but thought they were makeshift at best, beside they weighed in as much as or more than the hard side model I got. All that mechanical crap for raising and lowering weighs a fair amount I would imagine. I am encouraged by what I read here regarding air bags, although, one place I called said they did not have air bags that would fit the Dakota. Not sure if they were referring to clearance between the side of the frame and the tires or between the axle and the frame, I have around 6 or 7 inches between the frame and axle. The local Les Schwab dealer did not blink when I told him my truck type so I will be heading there in the next week or two.
Camping was successful and a lot of fun, we ended up going self contained by accident but everything worked per design so that was good.
Give my regards to Kuala Lumpur and be sure to check out the Petronas Towers, have you been to Malaysia before ???