I'm awaiting arbitration hearing. Did you do better than the standard BBB arbitration settlement of "miles on truck divided by 100,000 times purchase price? Did you trade in a vehicle on the one you returned? If so how did they handle the money there? I know asking this sounds a bit personal, but nobody else has ever listed what their settlement was and there are a whole bunch of your allies out here wondering. We've banded together here fight GM on this, and in fact this thread has been usefull to many to try to understand what is happening to us, and to give us ammo when dealing with the dealers. I figured the settlement agreement may have a non-disclosure clause so maybe that is why nobody is being specific.
What horror stories about the fix have you heard? The only problem I've heard/experienced is the steering squeal when I turn it to the left. The fix cured my vibration/shimmy problem, and the truck drives real smooth, no other noticeable vibrations. This is now the best riding truck I've ridden in. If you're truck is in the affected group I'd get the fix, if nothing else it should increase the durability and life of your steering system, and it may cure the cup holder/seat vibration you're experiencing. The squeal problem is very minor, they've issued an administrative notice (proceeds the service bulletin) on the squeal problem, and from my own personal experience, I have confidence in the dealership's service department (Ed Bozarth in Topeka, KS). In the mean time it's not hurting anything. Good Luck, Ken
I'm ready to buy a new truck ext cab 1500. Thinking of waiting for 2001 hoping they will correct a few things. I've read most of the prior posts like obyone's post 432 about reinforcing the frame for 2001? And I'm assuming the r&p steering problems have been changed w/the late 2000 production models (although I read a couple of posts which indicated otherwise). Whats the latest on production line changes? You guys seem to be pretty up on this stuff. Would you get a z71 just to be safe on steering issues (that would seem drastic if you don't need 4wd)?
If you don't need or necessarily want a 4WD then I wouldn't get one just to avoid potential problems. You will be paying substantially more, and you will be penalized significantly in gas mileage from what I hear. With a topper on my 2WD ext. cab 5.3L, I got 23 MPG going 75-76 MPH with the air conditioning on and the truck loaded with luggage, 3 adults, and 2 kids. The best I've heard 4WDs getting similarly equipped was 16-17 MPGs. If you worried about the steering issue you may want to look at the 3/4 tons.
To answer questions from Kingfishgus on settlement we are still trying to work out the finances. The arbitrator ruled that this replacement was due to the lemon law. The agreement shows full purchase price, taxes and collateral charges. There is a charge to us for $258 for mileage which is what we expected. The original complaint was made at 1500 miles or so and I think that is where the mileage reading is used. The settlement did not show finance charges I am working with BBB to make sure that it is included in what we are paid. We originally asked for a replacement vehicle but it didn't happen and thats OK as we want to take our time finding the right truck. Maybe even a rebate will come our way this time! I'd be happy to send a copy of all of the paperwork if you can give me a fax number.
I am one of the ones that had the fix done and am dealing with a minor horror story.
The welding of the reinforcement plate has much to be desired. All four dust boots on ball joints were broken and leaking grease. The dust boots on my aftermarket shocks were all mangled up. The steering was off center. They also lost my keys and remote and didn't tell me about it until I asked for the remote. And this was after keeping my truck for 3 days. So yes there are some horror stories. The only good thing, it really did tighten up the front end, not as wobbly anymore.
Of course the service manager promised to fix everything, but after this past experience I am realy hesistant to let them try to fix their "fix". Later.
I will be doing some road testing tonight again, as some remember, I had the "fix" done on my '00 x-cab and it seemed to work, but after my short drive yesterday on a nearby highway, I'm questioning if the problem actually is gone. Experienced on the concrete road the 65mph vibe again! If it is still presence, I will be making the call to the BBB, as much as I do like the rest of the truck, I don't want to live with this annoyance as well as another that I have now detected a 35-40mph vibration (or as some describe as a growl) I have seen elsewhere where others had a transmission growl, and there are TSB's regarding them. Has anyone experienced this and can it be resolved ? In response to a question of who does the welding- the dealership had their body shop personnel do it. Another question for everyone whose been under their truck-if you grab a hold of the hard(tube)line running parallel to the rack assembly, can you move(swivel) this line? If so, is this considered normal? Lastly, if a buyback happens, can one recover the cost of add-on options such as a remote starter, hard tonneau cover, etc.? Thanks for all of your help!
While load balancing is a more accurate replication of actual load conditions, it is also more expensive. Especially if a tire tech has to work an hour on one tire. So after your warranty expires and the dealer doesn't pick up the tab, what will you do? If your truck qualifies for the TSB, why not have it done as this load balancing is only a temporary fix until your tires become unbalanced again...the root of the problem is the sensitivity of the rack and pinion. GM is attempting to fix this under the TSB...so why is your service manager telling you to rebalance when he should be telling you to have it done? Just food for thought.
ricsch I think that the particulars of a buyback varies from state to state. My state for example has changed their version during their last legislative session. The emphasis has been placed that no economic harm should come to the consumer and that after buyback...reimbursed 100%...the consumer should be able to go out and shop for a new vehicle as if the buyback never happened. That included reimbursement for all aftermarket mods as the vehicle would be turned in "as is". Personally, I have over $6k in mods on my truck. Would be a major hassle to remove them and to reinstall on a "new" truck. This change in the law has made it a little easier. Now if I can find all those damned receipts...
If the tires are not out of balance and there is NO vibration what is going to cause the tires to go out of balance any more often than with any other vehicle. If the tires would have been indexed when they were mounted I don't think I would have ever has a problem. i have none of the shudder you speak of so I am not concerned. I also have no vandeta with my dealer. he has taken care of me for years and will continue to do so. My truck was made in 10/99 and I am very pleased with it. If I have to spen an extra $10.00 to have the tires load balanced that is not a problem.
You have missed my point. Tires will go out of balance as they wear. If you do not have the shudder or vibration common with the 2wd Silverado, that is great. In all the vehicles I've owned, I have never had to load balance any of the tires on any of the vehicles and they never vibrated. The ONLY vehicle that has vibrations is this truck. I have load balanced using the Hunter balancer, yes, the vibrations went away, yes, it was only temporary until the tires wore causing more vibrations. Let me rephrase my question. Prior to your Silverado, how often did you rebalance your tires on your previously owned vehicles due to vibrations?
Will my truck ever be fixed? I purchased my GMC Sierra on June 26, 1999 from Mitchell Chevrolet/GMC Truck in West Point, MS. I took it back two weeks later because I thought it had a wheel that was not balanced. When I came to pick it up, the service manager told me it was a defect that GM was working to correct and he would let me know when GM had a procedure to fix it. I kept checking back. All the while the vibration was getting worse while he repeatedly assured me GM was working on a solution. The truck vibrated when you first accelerated from a stop. It vibrated between 35 & 40 MPH. It vibrated and shimmied at 65 & 70 mph. The passenger seat vibrates back and forth like a 25-cent motel bed while at highway speeds. The broken seat belt rattles in the background constantly. The dash rattles and is getting louder. During November, I called and he told me the dealership was forced to buy a $10,000 tire machine to combat the vibration problems in the new trucks. He said GM now had a fix for the problem; it entailed replacing my springs and balancing my tires on the new machine. He ordered the parts. They came in and I made an appointment to install them in December. I took the truck in and left it while I was out of town. When I came to pick it up, I was told they determined that new General tires were needed before they could put on the springs. They ordered the tires. I waited and called and waited and called, still no tires. Finally I called back in May, he said, “yeah I believe the tires are finally in.” I made an appointment for June 12th, planning to leave the truck for an extended period of time and have the many other problems that were piling up corrected at the same time. Included in these were: sticking throttle, whining transmission, pops and creaks from the front springs while backing up, groans from the power steering unit, loud wind noise from the rear windows, rattle in the dash, exploded shock absorber, broken rear seatbelt, premature engagement of the ABS system, rough idle, and it goes dead sometimes if it is not allowed to idle until warm.
Took in the morning of June 12th, they said there was a mix up and did not have a loaner car. I should come back the next day. I Return June 13th, and I was given a Buick Century. I might add someone had just dropped it off; it was just plain nasty inside, smelled like smoke, ashes and cigarettes everywhere, my little girl even found a razor blade under the seat. I checked back at end of week. They have not done anything. The next week they balance the tires.... it still vibrates. Two and a half weeks later they have done nothing further. They are supposed to address all the other issues listed above during this visit. Service manager says they are doing it a little at a time will work it all out. Three and a half weeks into this I started talking to him about a GM buy back and tell him I am calling GM for a case number. The next day my truck is in the shop suddenly and they are going to work late that night to get the parts on it. I come in the following morning and they have not worked on it, but promise they are about to start. That afternoon I drive it with new springs. It still vibrates. Next day they swap a drive shaft out of a 2000 Silverado, No help. That afternoon they swap the wheels and tires with the same new truck. At this point it actually vibrates worse. About this time I notice they have dropped by hitch on the ground, bending the light connector housing up. We flake bits of paint off of it together and the Service Manager assures me he will replace it. Then he takes me out to drive a couple of 2000’s on the lot. One vibrates, not as bad as mine though. Both have no transmission whine or wind noise however. It is interesting that one has 400 miles on the odometer and a feathered tire on the left front wheel. The Service Manager suggests it is a dealer transfer and they probably swapped a problem tire off of a vibrating customer’s truck. He says he will call the GM District Manager and find out how to proceed. The next day I go back twice, by the afternoon he finally says the GM DM says to order new tires and that will fix it. New tires? I said we just put new tires on yesterday. He said they must be defective that the new ones would be in spec, stiffer sidewalls. Does that mean the 2000’s on the lot have defective tires? Guess so. My Sierra has been in the shop for 36 straight days as of July 17th and the only problems they claim to have repaired is the sticking throttle and the exploded shock absorber. Oh, one other note, I complained about the nasty loaner car. They gave me the service department truck to drive; it only has 80,000 miles on it. The fun never stops. The GM satisfaction center will not give me the name of the District Manager. I have filed a complaint with the BBB and sent GM a certified letter asking for a replacement truck. I guess all I can do is wait for the tires. The Service Manager assures me he will have them in 3 days. Last time he order tires for me it took 4 months! I have no confidence in there being able to fix my truck properly. The latest repair for vibration that GM has proposed actually includes welding on the frame!
I am building a web site we can use to share information and voice our dissatisfaction to GM. Please email me if you still own a defective truck, the nature of the defect(s), and if you resolved it, how you did. I believe there is strength in numbers and we can help each other stand up against General Motors. Web address: <<A HREF="http://drive.to/agmlemon">http://drive.to/agmlemon> Email address: < mailto:gm_lemon@bigfoot.com>
some people have some of your problems. I don't know any that have all of your problems. You seem to have a "winner" on your hands. Your dealer is a real "gem". I give you a lot of credit for your patience in dealing with your service department and to continue to drive the truck. A buyback looks like the only out. Good luck! If you need info regarding fixes for some of your problems, my email address is listed under my profile. Your website is going to take a lot of work...looks like it will help you to vent too...
My local Chevy dealer has a '01 X-cab 2wd shortbox on his lot, sold already,has some obvious changes on the frame-seems they are trying to address problems. There are braces, similar to what was used on cars for bracing fenders to the firewall or radiator supports in older cars(not impressive in strength) ,one going from one frame rail to the other directly beneath the extended cab area, the others run at an angle from about where the front cab mount on the frame is to the center of the crossmember where the lower control arms mount to, one from each side of the truck. Also, the crossmember where the tailshaft of the transmission mounts is 1 1/2 times wider (front to back) and welded in, unlike mine which is bolted in. I would have liked to have driven the truck, but as I said it was an ordered truck for someone. As I posted earlier, I seemed to have the vibe return after the tsb, so I went out for a highway run last night and it appeared fine at 65-70mph, but noticed some dithering/vibration when crossing some overpasses where differences of concrete and asphalt meet. Also, has anyone had experience with a vibration or oscillation feeling through the cab and seats(front or rear)? This has been present from the start, but the Service advisor says its normal- I don't buy it. I plan on contacting the BBB to begin the buyback process since I don't feel this truck will ever be what it should have been compared to my '94-better and stronger, NOTICE GM never advertised SMOOTHER!!
If you think these are the only trucks that vibrate you are mistaken. Check out the Fords and Dodges. I got your point perfectly well but I think our levels of concern are different. My point is the tires will go out of balance more often if they are not indexed. Once they are indexed they will stay in longer. If that is once a year or whatever I don't have a problem with that. It really depends how you drive and how many pot holes you hit. You don't really think they built the load balance machine just for Chevy Truck vibrations do you? Last year I went through 6 B-stone Dueler H/R's before I told the store to take them off....they shook so bad it was intolerable. Put a set of Michelin LTX M/S's on and smooth as a baby's butt...with no other maintenance, This was on our 1999 Blazer LT...no rack and pinion...etc. The original Uniroyal Laredo's did not vibrate but had NO rain traction. Bottom line is that tire QA is severely lacking even in the "premium" brands. `If it turns out that I need to have the TSB accomplished then I will but I don't believe mine needs it.
From what your posting says, sounds like a perfect candidate to have the problem truck bought back. Also, in response to espdixie, I've had several different General tires on the truck, and now have the Michelin LTX M/S tires. But those tires alone couldn't solve the problem that is related to the steering system on the 2wd. And from what I've seen and heard is that GM tried to build a lighter, but stronger frame and possibly sacrificed the strength where they needed it to save weight(my opinion). Sure would be nice to see GM tell us the truth on what's going on!
I've just had one of the Michelin LTX M/S replaced as the cause of vibrations. Dealer said that tire was defective. Funny cause after they replaced the tire, the truck still vibrates...
like you said, changed to Michelin on your 1999 Blazer and no other maintenance. Why didn't you do the same for the Silverado? Perhaps if you had the Michelins you wouldn't need any other maintenance for your truck.
Have you heard anything back from GM regarding your letter for a replacement truck, or from the BBB on your complaint? How long since you had contacted either one?
A few posts back you asked if anyone else felt a vibration (I would call it loosness) in the front end. This is what my problem has been all along. I did have an out of round tire, but that was replace, the rest indexed. So long as the road is smooth it is fine. If the surface is rough (ie concrete) you get the feeling like something is loose or the frame is flexing too much. The frame bracing as stated above sounds like it could possibly fix this. Wonder if a TSB will ever be issued to fix the trucks without the extra support found on the '01's?
when you say looseness in the front end, are you referring to the seat/cab vibration/movement? I'm going to contact my dealership service person and GM customer assistance(asking for a supervisor)and find out if the extra bracing can or will be added to trucks like ours to possibly correct these problems-if they will be able to tell us anything is another story.
You don'r read so well do you???!! I replaced the tires on the Blazer because it needed them. I don't need tire on my Silverado because wet traction is fine and I have no other problem. No rattles, no squeaks, no leaks, no launch shudder, no flutter in the A/C vents, no exploded shocks, no sagging springs...have I missed anything??? IF so I suspect you will tell me.
Trust me.....whe I decide I need tires I will buy them. I will have them load balanced and will have any, or all, replaced that don't meet the standard. Since I KNOW my truck is fine with tires that meet the load spec. I expect no problem. If I do have.....for whatever the problem.....I will work with my dealer and/or GM to solve it. This will be accomplished in a mature and professional manner.....you would be surprised what can be accomplished that way.
That is the last you will hear from me on this topic...bye!!
wrong? I could have sworn he said he had his tires changed at 1500 miles with Goodyear's...so my question was why not change with Michelins...then hypothesizing, you would not have any problems, similar to your Blazer...my bottom line is that I, similar to ricsch, have no vibrations until I hit a bump on the freeway and the truck's steering and body shakes like a bat outa hell...no tire will solve this as the vibration continues in the form of a wobble. I think the fix solidifies the front end by replacing the rack. If you don't think so, that's fine...I'm glad you're happy with your truck the way it is...
I don't know what he's getting upset about either. I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe he's just having a bad hair day. I for one appreciate your posts. Ken
I had just been in communication with an owner of a 4wd truck that has been having vibration problems with his truck. Did not find out the results of his dealer inquiry though. I guess they all have the potential to vibrate, just that the 2wd more so that the 4wd.
I have a '00 2WD ext. cab built 5/19/00. This was supposedly after the fix was being installed at the assembly plant. It has all the shakes, bounces, vibrations that the earlier trucks have, including the 30-40mph vibration. After reading all of the posts about what seems to the same problem, it appears that GM and most of their dealers are stonewalling and BSing the truck buyers that put their 30 grand down on what they thought was going to be the best pick-up they had ever bought. They won't fix this problem because it would cost GM too much. They're trying to wear down those that are complaining hoping they will give up and go away. That is how they are solving the vibration problem on the '99, '00 and probably the '01 Silverados 2WD trucks.
called last week Thursday to say parts are in and that he needs to make an appointment with autobody shop. Called today 3 working days later to find out how long it takes to make an appointment....duh! calls back an hour later saying earliest is next Monday. Same autobody shop that trashed my Pace Edwards rolltop. I'm looking forward to this one....
I was looking at my '00 Denali with the Firestone Firehawks 265/70R16 and was thinking of swapping rims and tires with my silverado. Not too sure what would happen though...at worst, my truck would probably chew the daylights out of the tires.
Your theory of GM hoping we will give up and go away is probably true. I spoke with a Chev Customer Assist.Manager on Tuesday and told her about all of the run-around in trying to get my vehicle repaired(funny, new truck and have to fix it!!) and she just tried to smooth it over, but I will be taking her up on her suggestion of seeing the General Manager of the dealership-beat her to it by already having an appointment this Friday, no satisfaction there, to the BBB I will contact. Also, in topic 615, post #124, a jeffthro commented about possible vibrations from the center carrier bearing on the drive shaft, has anyone heard more on this, or of drive shafts out-of-balance? Could this be causing the vibration through the seats and cab-this vibration in my truck is constant at speeds above 30mph, especially noticable on the highway. Last, hope espdixie has a better day-we're all just trying to get problems resolved.
Don't remember a drive shaft out-of-balance issue, just some concerns about the angle of the drive shaft and how the 2 sections mate up. However, with the way new problems keep popping up, it wouldn't surprize me. Does anyone out there know any more about the transmission growl/howl when you accelerate from a stop or at low speeds. I'm not sure, but I think my transmission noise is getting worse (I have a little over 11,000 miles on my truck now). If anyone knows anything about the transmission whine/howl/growl or whatever it is being called and any fix there is for it I would appreciate the information. Thanks in advance, Ken
obyone- thanks... I really only know 1 person w/ a new Silverado; he has had a 4x4 since last August and I don't think he's had any problems; (don't know for sure)
kansan- your transmission howl: is it a loud noise, or is it a kind of buzz that you can feel in the truck? the reason I ask is because I have an ol' '95 4wd w/56k on it that's had a transmission whine since I bought it w/only 24k and the original tranny. Luckily it isn't real loud, I just turn up the stereo...
It's not a buzz, it's more like a fan on one of those airdyne exercise bikes, except louder and with a whine like sound to it. I know it's not the fan though, because it's electronic and would have no correlation to engine RPM. It may not be a problem, as I never gave it much thought until my wife rode in it with me and asked what that noise was, and she didn't think it was that loud before. I drive it on a daily basis, so if it gradually got louder I may not have noticed it. I know some other people have mentioned a growling or howling sound from uner the hood, and I wonder if this is what they were referring to. Ken
I have replaced 3 GM alternators, all with about 50K miles on them, in the last couple of weeks. It first sounds like a whirring, whining sound, then you see the output on the voltmeter start dropping. I have worked on cars for many years, but when the sucker first started making noise in the wife's Safari, I would have sworn it was the transmission. Good news is, that alternator was a whole lot cheaper than a 4l60e tranny.
I was nosing around and found this press release. So if your GM truck has cold start rattle we know why..... For 2001, the main bearing tolerances of these engines have been tightened for quieter, cold-engine startup. Noise and vibration are also reduced by an intake manifold revision that results in better isolation of the fuel injection solenoid.
Just an update. Got my GMC last month and now have 1650 miles on it. I have no vibrations other than a slight engine vibration at idle, which I attribute to the more aggressive cam they put in the '00 to get the 5 additional HP out of the 5.3L engine.
After reading about the TSB, I took the truck over to Arkansas (I'm in Memphis) and drove up I55. Speed limit is 70 and most of the road is rough. (The only smooth section is being resurfaced. )
Hitting potholes and rough spots at 70, I get a lot of front-end vibrations, but the steering wheel does not twist in my hands. It vibrates up and down a little, but no feeling I'm losing control. It feels mostly like inadequate shocks.
Details: '00 Sierra 1500 SLE manufactured 11/99 in Indiana, Ex cab SB, 5.3L, 3.73 rear locker, Z85 suspension, towing package, aux transmission cooler.
Note to Ryan: Fire Red w/Graphite cloth interior. I'm 47.
Should I be looking at the TSB fix, or just get better shocks?
I would start with the TSB as it only solidifies your front end. If the ride and the steering wheel vibes are acceptable, then no problem. If not and want to improve go for the shocks...just my $.02
Regarding the drive shaft.... when I started my vibration quest for a fix....I had my drive shaft replaced, balanced, measured, shimmed, etc. It did not change the vibration....however, my vibration, for the most part, was due to a warped rim so I'm not really sure.....seems that would be the first and easiest attempt at correcting the problem.
In my opinion the 2 piece drive shaft causes the launch shutter. Although springs, etc. have been used to correct some of the launch shutter problem, I still believe the 2 piece causes most of that.
Just a comment on tire pressure. I had Generals on my 2wd ext cab at 35 psi since my warped rim was corrected. However, I still have the seat/cup holder vibration. I lowered the pressure to 32 psi and the truck rides smoother. I've only riden about 100 miles with the 32 psi, but there is a difference.
According to a local tire shop, I can lower to 30 psi without harming the tire if I don't put a heavy load in the rear. I also went back to the GM dealer and ask also. He said that the lower tire pressure has helped in some minor vibrating trucks. He also told me that the lower pressure would not harm the tires.
Whay you guys think..... Think 30 PSI would be okay?
I've got the Generals too and I agree totally. (I have a 2wd stdcab stepside sle w/crome steel wheels for reference.) I started at 37 psi in the rear and went down gradually to 32psi(where I'm at now) It really does help the seat and cupholder vibe. I only felt this when on rough roads though.
On the front, I have stopped at 35psi.
A trick I tried on the tires was to find a flat section of concrete(driveway or something). I drove onto the concrete, used armorall on a rag and wiped all the dust off the front and rear tire tread, and rolled it straight forward for a few tire revoultions. I then looked to see how much of the tire tread was touching the ground. I kept repeating this and lowering the psi until all the tread patch was dusty after rolling on the conncrete. At this point you have maximum traction and I believe the best ride. No cupholder movement now, but ocasionally a little seat vibe on expansion joints on bridges and stuff. However, my friends new F150 does the same thing on the same sections of highway.
Give this a try and let me know how it works for you. By the way, the recommended tire pressure on the drivers door says 28psi for the front and 35 psi for the rear on mine. Don't know if this is different for ext cabs.
great idea...an added plus is that it's a good way to get rid of all of that armorall that I've been meaning to throw away...
Max tire pressure on Generals is 44#'s? The Generals are the orginal set from the factory? or have they been replaced under warranty? Just wondering on the 28/35 on your door.
My truck manufactured 07/99 came with the 255/70R16 Generals. My door reads cold pressure front 35 psi rear 35 psi. For your info. Don't know if this helps...
My 2K ECb 3/4 ton with heavy duty suspension came with Load Range E tires. For full capacity load, inflate to *80* psi. Combine that with the stiff suspension and the tires should last forever as they are rarely on the ground! :-)
What pressure are you running everyday when driving empty or not towing. I've got the same tires on my 3/4 ton and when I first took delivery of the truck, they had about 45 psi in them. When I rotated them recently, it was very obvious that the rear tires were overinflated because you could easily see the center of the tread had worn a lot more than the edges. The dealer said they usually put 35 psi all the way around, but I'm now trying 40 in the rear and 42 up front.
I go up to 50 psi front and 70 psi rear when towing my travel trailer - rides real good when towing, but then I'm always having to deflate/inflate tires depending upon whether I'm towing or solo. Guess I'll finally have to break down and get my own air compressor.
has anyone had these problems on their ext cab-2 wd trucks. Mine has 3500 miles
1. This morning I drove 3/4 mile and stopped at a slight upward hill at a stop sign. When I pressed the gas petal to leave, the engine revved up,the auto transmission did not engage, then it grabbed slightly,then revved up again, then it grabbed for good and I was off down the road. Strange!
2. Has anyone seen a TSB for the left turn steering wheel whine?
3. When making a sharp right hand turn, something rattles in the drivers side door.
My tires are the original Generals($295 option on the window sticker, also got the heavy duty suspension package), so far hadn't had any rebalances. The max is 44psi on the sidewall.
The psi on the drivers door does read 28psi front and 35psi rear. It is a std cab short stepside 2wd 5.3 auto though. Is yours the same?
Thats odd about the psi ratings on the door being different. 35psi seems to be more in line with what it should be after my testing. Mine was made 10/19/99 in Fort Wayne plant for reference.
Have you tried the armorall trick yet? Just curious to see if it helps anyone out.
I also put a Hellwig rear anti-sway bar on the rear of the truck a few weeks back. It seemed to help smooth out the rear even more when combined with the 32psi of air in the rear tires. Not a drastic difference though.
Trans slipping has been noted by several owners on several message boards and no one has posted a fix as of yet.
Steering wheel whine- need to replace p/s metering valve.
gmcsierra
Don't know if the difference in tire pressure is cause I have an extended cab. I would think that it could be the reason. My truck was also manufactured at Fort Wayne. I tried the armor all yesterday and found 32 psi to be optimal. Gives a slightly better ride on the Michelins.
Ihave a 2000 sierra , short bed, 4.8 , 4x4. I just got new tires on [general 245's]. I have the vibration at 60 mph, Have the rough idle, dealer says that is normal. I have a noise at 40 mph that the dealer says it is the exhaust baffles because it is in overdrive. The new tires were tried and they seemed to be ok for now, time will tell. Also the ride has gone to crap. When you hit a bump, you can feeel it in the steering wheel, floors and seats. Again, he said it is normal for a short bed.
On the door, my truck says 60psi front, 80psi rear. For everyday I run 50psi front, 60psi rear. The ride seems good, but at only 1K miles I haven't gotten a good feel for tire wear. With the HUGE front stabilizer bar on this sucker, the only lean you get is in the sidewalls!
Comments
We've banded together here fight GM on this, and in fact this thread has been usefull to many to try to understand what is happening to us, and to give us ammo when dealing with the dealers.
I figured the settlement agreement may have a non-disclosure clause so maybe that is why nobody is being specific.
Good Luck,
Ken
we are still trying to work out the finances.
The arbitrator ruled that this replacement was
due to the lemon law. The agreement shows full purchase price, taxes and collateral charges. There is a charge to us for $258 for mileage which
is what we expected. The original complaint was
made at 1500 miles or so and I think that is where
the mileage reading is used.
The settlement did not show finance charges I am working with BBB to make sure that it is included in what we are paid. We originally asked for a replacement vehicle but it didn't happen and thats OK as we want to take our time
finding the right truck. Maybe even a rebate
will come our way this time! I'd be happy to send
a copy of all of the paperwork if you can give me
a fax number.
The welding of the reinforcement plate has much to be desired. All four dust boots on ball joints were broken and leaking grease. The dust boots on my aftermarket shocks were all mangled up. The steering was off center. They also lost my keys and remote and didn't tell me about it until I asked for the remote. And this was after keeping my truck for 3 days. So yes there are some horror stories. The only good thing, it really did tighten up the front end, not as wobbly anymore.
Of course the service manager promised to fix everything, but after this past experience I am realy hesistant to let them try to fix their "fix". Later.
If so, is this considered normal? Lastly, if a buyback happens, can one recover the cost of add-on options such as a remote starter, hard tonneau cover, etc.?
Thanks for all of your help!
ricsch
I think that the particulars of a buyback varies from state to state. My state for example has changed their version during their last legislative session. The emphasis has been placed that no economic harm should come to the consumer and that after buyback...reimbursed 100%...the consumer should be able to go out and shop for a new vehicle as if the buyback never happened. That included reimbursement for all aftermarket mods as the vehicle would be turned in "as is". Personally, I have over $6k in mods on my truck. Would be a major hassle to remove them and to reinstall on a "new" truck. This change in the law has made it a little easier. Now if I can find all those damned receipts...
Dean
I purchased my GMC Sierra on June 26, 1999 from Mitchell Chevrolet/GMC Truck in West Point, MS. I took it back two weeks later because I thought it had a wheel that was not balanced. When I came to pick it up, the service manager told me it was a defect that GM was working to correct and he would let me know when GM had a procedure to fix it. I kept checking back. All the while the vibration was getting worse while he repeatedly assured me GM was working on a solution. The truck vibrated when you first accelerated from a stop. It vibrated between 35 & 40 MPH. It vibrated and shimmied at 65 & 70 mph. The passenger seat vibrates back and forth like a 25-cent motel bed while at highway speeds. The broken seat belt rattles in the background constantly. The dash rattles and is getting louder. During November, I called and he told me the dealership was forced to buy a $10,000 tire machine to combat the vibration problems in the new trucks. He said GM now had a fix for the problem; it entailed replacing my springs and balancing my tires on the new machine. He ordered the parts. They came in and I made an appointment to install them in December. I took the truck in and left it while I was out of town. When I came to pick it up, I was told they determined that new General tires were needed before they could put on the springs. They ordered the tires. I waited and called and waited and called, still no tires. Finally I called back in May, he said, “yeah I believe the tires are finally in.” I made an appointment for June 12th, planning to leave the truck for an extended period of time and have the many other problems that were piling up corrected at the same time. Included in these were: sticking throttle, whining transmission, pops and creaks from the front springs while backing up, groans from the power steering unit, loud wind noise from the rear windows, rattle in the dash, exploded shock absorber, broken rear seatbelt, premature engagement of the ABS system, rough idle, and it goes dead sometimes if it is not allowed to idle until warm.
Took in the morning of June 12th, they said there was a mix up and did not have a loaner car. I should come back the next day. I Return June 13th, and I was given a Buick Century. I might add someone had just dropped it off; it was just plain nasty inside, smelled like smoke, ashes and cigarettes everywhere, my little girl even found a razor blade under the seat. I checked back at end of week. They have not done anything. The next week they balance the tires.... it still vibrates. Two and a half weeks later they have done nothing further. They are supposed to address all the other issues listed above during this visit. Service manager says they are doing it a little at a time will work it all out. Three and a half weeks into this I started talking to him about a GM buy back and tell him I am calling GM for a case number. The next day my truck is in the shop suddenly and they are going to work late that night to get the parts on it. I come in the following morning and they have not worked on it, but promise they are about to start. That afternoon I drive it with new springs. It still vibrates. Next day they swap a drive shaft out of a 2000 Silverado, No help. That afternoon they swap the wheels and tires with the same new truck. At this point it actually vibrates worse. About this time I notice they have dropped by hitch on the ground, bending the light connector housing up. We flake bits of paint off of it together and the Service Manager assures me he will replace it. Then he takes me out to drive a couple of 2000’s on the lot. One vibrates, not as bad as mine though. Both have no transmission whine or wind noise however. It is interesting that one has 400 miles on the odometer and a feathered tire on the left front wheel. The Service Manager suggests it is a dealer transfer and they probably swapped a problem tire off of a vibrating customer’s truck. He says he will call the GM District Manager and find out how to proceed. The next day I go back twice, by the afternoon he finally says the GM DM says to order new tires and that will fix it. New tires? I said we just put new tires on yesterday. He said they must be defective that the new ones would be in spec, stiffer sidewalls. Does that mean the 2000’s on the lot have defective tires? Guess so. My Sierra has been in the shop for 36 straight days as of July 17th and the only problems they claim to have repaired is the sticking throttle and the exploded shock absorber. Oh, one other note, I complained about the nasty loaner car. They gave me the service department truck to drive; it only has 80,000 miles on it. The fun never stops. The GM satisfaction center will not give me the name of the District Manager. I have filed a complaint with the BBB and sent GM a certified letter asking for a replacement truck. I guess all I can do is wait for the tires. The Service Manager assures me he will have them in 3 days. Last time he order tires for me it took 4 months! I have no confidence in there being able to fix my truck properly. The latest repair for vibration that GM has proposed actually includes welding on the frame!
I am building a web site we can use to share information and voice our dissatisfaction to GM. Please email me if you still own a defective truck, the nature of the defect(s), and if you resolved it, how you did.
I believe there is strength in numbers and we can help each other stand up against General Motors.
Web address: <<A HREF="http://drive.to/agmlemon">http://drive.to/agmlemon>
Email address: < mailto:gm_lemon@bigfoot.com>
Thanks,
Clay Hodges
Dean
Trust me.....whe I decide I need tires I will buy them. I will have them load balanced and will have any, or all, replaced that don't meet the standard. Since I KNOW my truck is fine with tires that meet the load spec. I expect no problem. If I do have.....for whatever the problem.....I will work with my dealer and/or GM to solve it. This will be accomplished in a mature and professional manner.....you would be surprised what can be accomplished that way.
That is the last you will hear from me on this topic...bye!!
Ken
Dean
I was looking at my '00 Denali with the Firestone Firehawks 265/70R16 and was thinking of swapping rims and tires with my silverado. Not too sure what would happen though...at worst, my truck would probably chew the daylights out of the tires.
Dean
Thanks in advance,
Ken
kansan- your transmission howl: is it a loud noise, or is it a kind of buzz that you can feel in the truck? the reason I ask is because I have an ol' '95 4wd w/56k on it that's had a transmission whine since I bought it w/only 24k and the original tranny. Luckily it isn't real loud, I just turn up the stereo...
Ken
Jim
So if your GM truck has cold start rattle we know why.....
For 2001, the main bearing tolerances of these engines have been tightened for quieter, cold-engine startup. Noise and vibration are also reduced by an intake manifold revision that results in better isolation of the fuel injection solenoid.
Clay
My Web address: <<A HREF="http://drive.to/agmlemon">http://drive.to/agmlemon>
Email : <<A HREF="http://gm_lemon@bigfoot.com">mailto:gm_lemon@bigfoot.com>
After reading about the TSB, I took the truck over to Arkansas (I'm in Memphis) and drove up I55. Speed limit is 70 and most of the road is rough. (The only smooth section is being resurfaced. )
Hitting potholes and rough spots at 70, I get a lot of front-end vibrations, but the steering wheel does not twist in my hands. It vibrates up and down a little, but no feeling I'm losing control. It feels mostly like inadequate shocks.
Details: '00 Sierra 1500 SLE manufactured 11/99 in Indiana, Ex cab SB, 5.3L, 3.73 rear locker, Z85 suspension, towing package, aux transmission cooler.
Note to Ryan: Fire Red w/Graphite cloth interior. I'm 47.
Should I be looking at the TSB fix, or just get better shocks?
Peter
Peter
Dean
In my opinion the 2 piece drive shaft causes the launch shutter. Although springs, etc. have been used to correct some of the launch shutter problem, I still believe the 2 piece causes most of that.
John
According to a local tire shop, I can lower to 30 psi without harming the tire if I don't put a heavy load in the rear. I also went back to the GM dealer and ask also. He said that the lower tire pressure has helped in some minor vibrating trucks. He also told me that the lower pressure would not harm the tires.
Whay you guys think..... Think 30 PSI would be okay?
John
On the front, I have stopped at 35psi.
A trick I tried on the tires was to find a flat section of concrete(driveway or something). I drove onto the concrete, used armorall on a rag and wiped all the dust off the front and rear tire tread, and rolled it straight forward for a few tire revoultions. I then looked to see how much of the tire tread was touching the ground. I kept repeating this and lowering the psi until all the tread patch was dusty after rolling on the conncrete. At this point you have maximum traction and I believe the best ride. No cupholder movement now, but ocasionally a little seat vibe on expansion joints on bridges and stuff. However, my friends new F150 does the same thing on the same sections of highway.
Give this a try and let me know how it works for you. By the way, the recommended tire pressure on the drivers door says 28psi for the front and 35 psi for the rear on mine. Don't know if this is different for ext cabs.
Jay
Max tire pressure on Generals is 44#'s? The Generals are the orginal set from the factory? or have they been replaced under warranty? Just wondering on the 28/35 on your door.
Dean
Dean
Jim
I go up to 50 psi front and 70 psi rear when towing my travel trailer - rides real good when towing, but then I'm always having to deflate/inflate tires depending upon whether I'm towing or solo. Guess I'll finally have to break down and get my own air compressor.
1. This morning I drove 3/4 mile and stopped at a slight upward hill at a stop sign. When I pressed the gas petal to leave, the engine revved up,the auto transmission did not engage, then it grabbed slightly,then revved up again, then it grabbed for good and I was off down the road. Strange!
2. Has anyone seen a TSB for the left turn steering wheel whine?
3. When making a sharp right hand turn, something rattles in the drivers side door.
Any info would be helpful.
The psi on the drivers door does read 28psi front and 35psi rear. It is a std cab short stepside 2wd 5.3 auto though. Is yours the same?
Thats odd about the psi ratings on the door being different. 35psi seems to be more in line with what it should be after my testing. Mine was made 10/19/99 in Fort Wayne plant for reference.
Have you tried the armorall trick yet? Just curious to see if it helps anyone out.
I also put a Hellwig rear anti-sway bar on the rear of the truck a few weeks back. It seemed to help smooth out the rear even more when combined with the 32psi of air in the rear tires. Not a drastic difference though.
Jay
Steering wheel whine- need to replace p/s metering valve.
gmcsierra
Don't know if the difference in tire pressure is cause I have an extended cab. I would think that it could be the reason. My truck was also manufactured at Fort Wayne. I tried the armor all yesterday and found 32 psi to be optimal. Gives a slightly better ride on the Michelins.
Dean
Jim