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Comments
HJ
1). If you have a sun roof, the water drain tubes may be clogged and can cause a whistling sound at about 55 MPH and up. I've seen a service bullitin on this issue.
2). If you have the luggage rack, check to see if there is debris wedged between the rack and the roof panel. Sometimes leaves and other objects can get wedged and cause noise.
My problem was solved with just a resealing of the windshield molding. I'd also see what another dealer could do.
Good luck
P.S. I have a key chain that disconnects my ignition key from the rest of my mess that was a free gift from my dealer. Perhaps that is why my Commander never cuts off while driving. Best of luck to all.
If you have any info or advice let me know.
1. front drivers door is leaking around the seal on the bottom. water is pooling and leaking under the plastic molding into the carpet.
2. light whistling noise while on the interstate. Sounds like it is coming from the dash.
3. transmission is dropping on the down shift. Almost like it is skipping 3rd gear going straight down to 2nd.
thanks
The whistling noise has also been a common problem (also addressed in this forum) and apparently is caused by a channel that runs along the top of the windshield. Again, common problem, should be an easy fix.
I have not experienced any problems with the transmission, and I had a difficult time understanding what your problem is. Could you describe it in more detail? Is the Jeep really downshifting hard as you come to a stop?
Anyway, so far so good on my Jeep. I'll keep you posted if anything comes up.
P.S. I have a 2006 Commander Limited with the Hemi. Originally they said I could not get the mud flaps installed on my limited since it has the Hemi. Good ol' Jim-bo fixed that problem too by simply modifying the mounting bracket. I guess I lucked out with a 5 star Jeep dealership that realy cares about my issues. I wish everyone luck. :shades:
"Jeep is working on a simple cure although from my understanding it has to be approved by the epa because it is emissions related this can take 60 days. "
Anyone else heard this?
Here is a piece of the post
OK, ANOTHER SITUATION WITH A STALLING ISSUE. DUE TO THE FACT OF EPA STANDARDS, DCX HAS LOWERED THE TARGET IDLE TO 500 RPM'S WITH MOST OR ALL ACCESSORIES OFF. WITH ALL ACCESSORIES ON THE TARGET RPM,S SHOULD BE 620. SO WHAT HAPPENS AT LOW SPEEDS IN PARKING LOT SITUATIONS THE TARGET IDLE IS AROUND 500, WITH STEERING THE VEHICLE WITH LITTLE OR NO THROTTLE THE IDLE DROPS BELOW 500 RPM'S AND YOU GET A ERRATIC IDLE. AND BOOM IT STALLS.
ACCORDING TO AN ENGINEER AROUND HERE, THE MAIN REASON FOR THE LOWER RPM'S IS EPA STANDARDS............ THE LOWER THE RPM'S THE BETTER THE FUEL ECON IS..
THIS IS TO HELP FOR PEOPLE THAT ARE SITTING IN TRAFFIC IN THE CITIES, WITH MOST ACCESS OFF THE RPM'S WILL REMAIN AROUND 500 AND THE VEHICLE WILL GET BETTER FUEL ACON.
Hopefully, this will help some of you. I am currently the owner of a 4.7L XK Limited that as stalled 5 times. My dealer originally replaced the MAP sensor after the first 2 stalls. Then, it stalled again 2 times on the same day- once on my way to take it back into the dealership. They kept it for 2 weeks (700 miles)trying to reproduce the stall- they couldn't. The service manager and service department has been great- Northwest Jeep of Beaverton in Oregon. They left a data recording device attached to the car and guess what- after another 1000 miles, it happened again- this time I was able to capture the stall with the recording device. The dealership has the vehicle back again and has forwarded the results to DCX in Detroit. For the record, my dealership service manager has stated the DCX has attempted to get this to pass the CARB (california emissions board) 3 times and has been rejected- 60 days has been more like 6-12 months from what I have heard and no good news on this if it really is the issue yet.
Thanks
Connie
Good luck!
If so there is a TSB regarding a whistling noise that is not winsheild related. It has to do with the engine air intake
Oh, it's for sale, if anyone is interested. Extended warranty to 70,000 miles. :shades:
If you have purchased the Trailer Tow Package, I strongly believe that you will find an electrical wire harness (16" long) with a plug on one end and wires sticking out on the other end to be connected to your brake controller. Look for an mounted connector on the left hand side under your steering column. If you cannot find the connector, I would suggest you get your money back for the trailer tow package you have paid on the first place.Somebody made an error on your order. I hope this helps. Good luck.
Horst
Before you spend another dime on your brake controller installation, I would suggest you go to an Airstream RV dealer and have it fixed. They do this kind of work. If you do not have a factory trailer towing package in your Jeep installed, the after installation is a little more time consuming but it can be done with no problems. I hope this helps.
Horst
Thanks
1) A small "chirping" noise associated with the air conditioner. It seems to come from the back passenger side. I've heard this from day one with this vehicle. It goes away when I turn the AC off.
2) A brief "sputtering" at times. It only happens every now and then... but generally when I am lightly accelerating and turning out of a driveway / parking lot and into traffic. The vehicle hesitates and sputters as I punch the accelerator and then it "catches-up" and works fine once I get moving.
:confuse:
I bought my new JEEP COMMANDER in JUN 06 and it has been in the shop 8 times and out of service for 47 days. The car would buck while driving at all speeds unexpectedly... I had problems with the dash, car locks, bucking and check engine light, hard downshifting and I still have problems. I filed for the lemon law a few weeks ago asking for a full refund of all my monies so I can buy a dependable car.. Chrysler wants to charge me a usage fee $5700.. Isn't that great what serivce... They don't care that I've lost more than $5700 in sales and time because I had to bring in my car 8 times (remember I would have to bring it in and pick it up which means I've been to the service department 16 times) and we all know how SLOOOOOOOWWWWWW the service department is checking in your car, then you have to transfer all your things to a rental (I'm in medical sales and carry alot of supplies in my car), then you have to wait to get the rental etc.... But I've missed so many appts with top referring doctors and hospitals and was unable to service my accounts with supplies they needed to help chronically ill patients. My reputation was damaged because I was a NO SHOW... BECAUSE MY CAR WAS BROKEN DOWN AGAIN... not to mention the fact that I almost killed my self trying to get my bucking car off I-95 in rush hour traffic or when I pulled out of the parking lot and could not move cause my car was having another bucking fit...
PLEASE DO NOT BUY A JEEP COMMANDER, if you have one be very careful.. The bucking and at times stalling is unexpected and it's very hard to control while driving. KEEP all your service documents and say your prayers... (I do and I'm not that holy) ;-)
Good Luck and please read below for detailed service info:
Here is a brief overview of problems I've had......
July 03/06 - 07/06 ( Days in shop= 4 days)
1) Whistling noise coming from the front dash window
2) Front passenger door light indicator shows the door is open when it is not, causing inside lights to stay on and chime to be continous.
July 19/06 - 31/06( Days in shop= 13days) CAR HAS TO BE TOWED INTO SHOP
1) Car bucks erratically while driving then check engine light comes and I was unable to control the car due to the hard continuous bucking had to get the car towed to get repaired.
2) Front passenger door light indicator comes on again when door is not open.
(2nd repair)
3) Whistling noise from the front dash is back. (2nd repair)
October 16/06 - 18/06 ( Days in shop= 2 days)
1) Car bucking erratically while driving, then the check engine light comes on. (2nd repair)
2) Whistling noise coming from the front sash window. (3rd repair)
November 04/06-09/06 (Days in shop= 6days)
1) Car bucking erratically while driving, then check engine light comes on. (3rd repair).
December 06/06 – 12/06 (Days in shop = 7days)
1) Hard down shift between 20 & 25 causing the car to feel as it has been bumped forward from behind.
2) Passenger door lock latch loose, causing doors not to lock
December 13/06-15/06 (Days in shop= 3 days)
1) Hard down shift comes back between 20 & 25 causing the car to feel as it has been bumped forward from behind.
Feburary 23/06 – 27/06 (Days in shop = 5 days)
1) Car bucking erratically while driving, then check engine light comes on.
(4th repair).
2) ESP/BAS light is on.
3) Anti-Skid light is on.
4) Front Passenger window shutters when going up. The window barley goes up.
( 5th problem with the front right passenger door)
Feburary 28th – Presently in the shop again.
1) Car bucking erratically while driving, then check engine light comes on.
(5th repair).
Times car was brought in for repairs= 8 times