Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair

seabird

Did the test. No slippage. Thanks again.

seastar1960

having possible trans problem. sometimes slipping only after been driving for awhile but only from dead stop.not all the time. fluid find and runs good driving on street and on freeway.but coming off freeway to dead stop and it slips on ttake off from light. any suggestions i do most of my work on my cars but not tranny. jim seastar1960

mrbill1957

There really isn't anything you can do for servicing the trans except change the fluid. No adjustments, no pan to drop, no filter to change.

I also have an 88 Accord, and have found that dumping and refilling the trans, running it a while, and dumping-refilling again helps the way it shifts. It is best to use Honda fluid, its been modified esp for the Hondamatics.

A local Honda master mechanic (now on his own) said that adding any type of transmission additive can ruin the Honda transmission. He said that he has rebuilt over a 100 of them, and many failures were from additives. He claims it attacks the adhesive that holds the friction material in the clutch. Once it starts to peel off, your looking at a rebuild. He charges $900 for a rebuild.

The mechanic also said that he sees many Accords in this vintage with 300,000+ on them, so it may be worth sticking a few $ into it to have it shifting correctly again.

Good luck
Mrbill

ronin_301

When I bought my 89 Accord DX, is was leaking oil rather badly, about a quart a week. It turned out being the valve cover gasket, a really simple repair job. Maybe try checking that?

ilikehondas1

1..Gears will more difficult to sycronize (to change)
2.. Clutch peddle will operate much closer to the floor board than before.
3..the constant nee to double clutch in order to change the gear...(low pressure)
4.. feel a difference in the car's power

ilikehondas1

First change your gas filters, one located on the fire wall and the other filter is at the back under the car near the left rear wheel. if problem continues, have your mechanic carry out a pressure test on your fuel pump.If all these turns out good, verify the high pressure fuel regulator located under the dash left hand corner.But I think that your problem sounds more like fuel filter problems.(the pressure remains constant despite your efforts to increase it by floor boarding)

gothiclullaby

I have a 1989 Honda Accord Sei.. I just got it a few weeks ago when around a week ago it had trouble starting one morning.. I got my roommate to jump me and drove it for about an hour.. then the next morning I had problems starting it again. I just held the key and it turned over eventually.. so I went straight to the mechanic where he did some diagnostic testing on it and it concluded that the battery was dead, but everything else was fine (alternator blah blah) so I put in a new battery and now. (about 4 days later) I'm running into the same problem again.. but its only if the car has been sitting for about 6 hours..

I just got back from the mechanic again who seems baffled by it all since he re did the diagnostic testing on it and everything showed up fine (but this is also after i let it try to turn over for a while (yes.. its cranking if its what I believe that term means)

I'm going to drop it off to him tomorrow night so it can sit overnight and he can figure it out when he gets in .. but if you have any idea.. :sick:

lugnutt

I just bought this 1989 Honda Accord automatic with 200 kms on it and every time i put it into drive or reverse frrom park it slams and jolts the car into gear, other words it shifts very hard into drive or reverse from park.

Any thoughts what this could be, i checked the trans it looks and smells clean ?????
Also i have another problem with the head lights they don't work i checked the bulbs and they work fine but to turn on from the swich inside the car nothing happens.I also checked the fuses and there all good, could it be a wiring issue. any feedback would be great

user777

just ideas:
transmission: maybe a lazy solenoid, or something on the switch assembly of the shifter. ?

and on the headlights: i'm thinking the switch on the stalk is bad.

mrbill1957

Have the fluid changed/flushed with genuine Honda fluid. My 88 Accord always shifts hard when it needs a change.

Another possibility is a broken motor mount. They are known to break mounts which allow the trans/engine to rock back and forth too much when shifting.

Mrbill

lugnutt

I just bought my first Honda vehicle, it's a89 Accord and i was just wondering is it true when doing an oil change or a trans change should you use genuine Honda oil/ trans fluid. some say it may damage your car or the way it runs.
:confuse:

user777

oh yeah - broken motor mount! that is a good possibility. agree with the prescription for a flush - specially is it's been 30 or 40K since the last one performed.

lastwraith

Considering that a Honda mechanic who used to frequent these boards said his dealer was using Castrol or whatever oil was on sale, I would say that using Honda brand is not necessary. Plus I believe the Honda brand is simply made by a major manufacturer anyway. I would recommend using the Honda ATF though, it does seem to make a difference in my '90. However, I would get it online in bulk and that will be much cheaper than doing it at the dealer.

enjoy your ride!

dlmelzer

I have a 99 Honda that sounds as if it might have the same problem. Turn key, hear a click, but doesn't turn over. It isn't the battery (we've had that checked several times). It isn't the ignition switch (we've had that replaced altogether - it started about 90% of the time for about 2 months.) We took the car to the dealer and they say it starts for them, so they don't think anything is wrong. (Their recommendation is to jiggle the key!) We have noticed the engine turns over after fewer attempts if the key is turned very slowly. I am taking it to another mechanic to test the solenoid next. I could sure use some advice on this problem, as well.

arcwelder

My 84 Accord developed an intake manifold coolant leak on the underside of the manifold. After many hours of work I was able to expose the are and discovered the leak coming from a pinhole in one of the plugs. Are replacement plugs available somewhere, if not, what are my options?
Thanks for any assistance

dylanf

I just got a 89 Accord DX and it needs a new engine and i wanted to know how new of an engine i could put in it

garagejohnny

I've had an '89 Accord LXi for years - 175,000 and going strong. It's survived 2 teenage drivers and now I'm driving it myself 50 miles daily (get's a lot better mileage than my F150). I just rebuilt the transmission myself over the winter. Mine had a similar problem to what you describe and eventually got stuck in 2nd gear and wouldn't shift at all. Sure was fun driving that home !!!

The problem is most likely a sticky valve internal to the transmission. There are about 30 different valves in that tranny (should be an F4 transmission code), I would guess that the Centrifugal Valve is your problem. That valve has a sliding piston in it which shifts based on RPM / Speed.

Here's my advice:
FIRST. Take your car to a reputable transmission shop and have them do a "power flush" of the transmission. Should run about $100 and could very likely solve your problem completely. This forces clean fluid and solvents thru your transmission under operating conditions, cleaning and flushing out any dirt, and hopefully tarnish, that has built up in the valves and causing them to stick. When it's done, you've got fresh fluid in there and you're good to go.

SECOND: If #1 doesn't solve the problem, then you're probably looking at a rebuild. I don't know any shops in my area that would touch that job for $900. If it's a reputable and experienced shop, that is a GREAT price.

THIRD: If and only if you are a VERY good mechanic with lots of metric tools, lots of Japanese car experience, long arms, small hands, good eyes, AND A CAR LIFT, then you can attempt the job yourself. But this is not a job for a shade-tree mechanic with a Haynes manual - you really gotta watch what you're doing or you'll be doing it over an over again. An overhaul kit for your tranny is about $125 including a rebuilders manual. I used "dialaclutch.com" they were great to deal with and had a quality product. You'll want to get a MASTER Rebuild kit if you're going to do this job at all. It includes seals, gaskets, o-rings, steel and fiber clutch plates. Don't forget to order the overhaul manual along with the kit - you will definitely need it !!!!

FOURTH: Replace the tranny with a known good one. VERY expensive. I got prices from $2000 to $4000 when I was doing mine. I definitely wouldn't go this route unless the cases are busted. And I don't have much faith in junk yard trannies - you might get lucky, but then again you might replace it 3 or 4 times to get one that works better than yours.

Good Luck.....

lindellkemmet

Its the starter solonoid. Best to change the starter, I think mine cost 80? DId it myself in 1.5 hrs. Same problem you had: turn key, "click" Turn Key, "Click" turn key, then it worked. Its not getting the full amt of "juice" to the starter to turn it over, like a short in the line. That's what the solonoid does. Its an easy fix. Lindy

lindellkemmet

Gold_Driver: I have the same problem, looks like its coming out of the PCV tube just abovethe filter, right? Mine JUST happened when I changed to Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40 (always used Mobil 1 Synthetic 5W 30). Might just be the grommet? Not sure. DId you get yours figured out? Mines leaking a lot. I'm not for temp fix's but I have a 1000 mile trip tomorrow for a funeral so I'm throwing some STP in there to "slurry it up" a bit. Let me know what you found I'm curious!>!>!> I've got a 95 accord, SAME PROBLEM. Lindy

phill2

Don't worry, i have the same problem. I have a 89 Honda Accord LX that will drive fine most of the time, but occasionally it loses power on the freeway, and feels like it's choking. (Power kicks in for about 3 seconds, then cuts out completely, then kicks in etc) Generally if i turn it off and wait a few minutes it will work again, although it has problems starting straight afterwards. (Completely dead) The best way to get it to act up is give it heaps, preferably when going uphill.
I would love some hints on what the hell is wrong with my car, i've had a kit through the carby and new filters etc.
:confuse:

user777

what came to mind was a clogged EGR valve. however, googling revealed others with the symptoms you describe and mention faulty crank arm position sensor, or faulty ignition circuit, distributor or cap.

hollywood454

When engine is cold, I will have to attempt to start a number of times. It will start and die over and over, probably six to eight times, then finally stay running. After that, it runs good. Also, check engine light on.

lgj069

The glove box on my 1985 Accord SEi will not latch closed.I have no idea why.Can anyone give me any help? Thanx...Larry

user777

yeah, buy a new accord.

then there is duct tape.

seriously though, sounds like you need a new latch if you can't disassemble and fix. maybe a junk yard / pull-it yard?

or:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1985&catcgry3=3DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=GLOVE+BOX+COM- PONENTS

jbrandon0396

My 89 Accord LX does some weird stuff. First, After running for a while, 15-20 minutes, it usually will not restart until waiting for another 20-30 minutes. When the engine is cold, it will not run correctly until the check engine light comes ON. Then sometimes, it sounds like it is hitting a rev limiter just before shifting, but this is when driving in a very normal, and legal, fashion. The most frustrating of these is it's failure to restart. Is this an ECM, oxygen sensor or something else? I have just replaced the fuel pump and it works great. Thanks for the help!

klp280

I just purchased an '85 Honda. I needed something to get around in. I drove it home and it died. I replaced the battery and something drained it instantly. I replaced that battery. I have power, but it wont start. I am not sure if it is the alternator or starter? Also, my steering wheel does a 360 when in park.

lynn17

My son has an automatic 89 Honda Accord Lx it was running ,, it turned off when he was driving on freeway .towed home..it sounds like it will start but it wont turn over ,he replaced coil,spark plugs,cap, and rotor.. can you suggest anything else to check ? Thank You

user777

yes, it *might* be a main relay.

google +accord +"main relay"

for example:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa010301a.htm

mrbill1957

it sounds like it will start but it wont turn over

I'm assuming you mean the car is turning over, sounds like it wants to start, but doesn't?

LXIs (fuel injection) were known to have fuel pump relays fail. I haven't seen the complaints with the LX (carb)model and fuel pump relays, but there still is a possibility your problem is fuel related. Is the engine getting gas?

Mrbill

pkgman2

I have 2 accords, an 87 and an 88, i was wondering what the valve specs are..

im going to be changing the head gasket on one soon, but wasnted to get this done for now.?

Also, anyone know if the lx carb and the lxi fuel inj are the same head? got an engine swap to do if they are.

pkgman2

I'm armpits deep in the same on my 89. I know there plugs available, just not sure if they are at a parts store near you.. I know i've gotten a "freeze plug" set before and used only the ones i needed.. didnt see a kit for these yet but can sometimes match them up.

Jeff

pkgman2

I found and replaced mine, with a 20mm one from NAPA autoparts today.. 49 cents.

A little funky getting to it, but it was up on stands, and moved the rh support bracket from under the car, and could get to the culprit.

Back on the road to better mileage woo hoo!!

blakester1

I need the torque specs for cylinder head bolts...I am in Thailand and cannot get the info I need....please help! Thank you

rjg012682

i have a 89 accord lxi that has a coolant leak that i cant seem to locate. i know it is coming from somewhere around the power steering pump. any suggestions?

mrbill1957

The head bolts should be tightened in two passes. The first pass tighten to 22 ft.lbs (30Nm) on the second pass, tighten to 49 ft.lbs (68Nm)

torque sequence looking at front of engine:

(8) (6) (2) (4) (10)

(9) (3) (1) (5) (7)

Mrbill

blakester1

Thanks you are a lifesaver! :shades:

aheedratron

Hello,
I am now the owner of a '89 Honda Accord dx with a carbeurated 2 liter engine and an automatic transmission.
I have browsed your past discussions and cant seem to find answers to my specific questions so here goes:
1) When I first bought the car, I began to go through a minor tune-up. I took off the air intake and noticed a piece that was totally disconnected save for a vaccuum line. I had driven the car for over 100 miles by the time I had gotten around to getting screws to re-attach the part; it sits underneath the carbeurator on the right hand side and the car ran fine without it. I was later told that this piece 'catches final emissions from the car to prevent backfire' or something to that effect I can't find a decent description much less a good picture of this piece, what I really wonder is if there was a reason this was left off? does the engine breathe better without it?
2) While it runs great most of the time, I notice that the tranny likes to slip up (from 2.5 grand to 4-6.5 grand depending on how hard my foot was on the gas)especially on turns in the D-3 gear, while it is not debilitating as of yet, it is quite annoying especially when I am turning onto a highway, is this a quirk? should I have it looked at?
3) When I bought the car, the guy told me that older hondas have a govenor or choke that makes the car idle high until it is 'ready' my car idles at 2 grand and will rise up to 3-3.5 over a minute or two. I tap the gas and it will drop to around 950 rpm. Is this really a normal feature?
4) Is there a manual better than Haynes or chilton out there? or at least supplimentary reading on history, specific part specs, etc...?
-aheedratron

angell21

I have a 89 honda accord i recently bought, and when you rev up the engine or when your driving it wistles and i think it is the exaust. I am not sure so any help would be great. I also want to increase the horsepower not alot just enough where i will get better fuel mileage. So like an extra 30 or 40 horses. And i don't want to spend alot of money, i just spent 300 dollars on a upper ball joint! please let help me!
-Angell21

mrbill1957

I also want to increase the horsepower not alot just enough where i will get better fuel mileage.

Increasing horsepower will do the opposite. Extra HP doesn't come free. If you modify your 89, expect your gas milage to drop.

Mrbill

bdz

In January of this year I had a problem with my 1989 Accord LX (5-speed manual) similar to the problem you are having with your idle. After starting the car the idle would go up to about 3000 and stay there for at least 5 minutes, slowly dropping down to around 750 after about 15 minutes. The car was basically driving itself down the street for about 10 minutes without my foot on the gas. I took it to the local Honda Dealership. They replaced the CHOKE COIL - that fixed the problem. Now when I turn it on from a cold start the idle will start high (around 2000 plus just as it used to) but will kick down when I tap on the gas during about the first minute.

bdz

I had a similiar problem with my 1989 Accord LX (carbuerator). Idle was jumping way up to around 3000 rpm so that the car was basically driving down the street by itself without my foot on the gas. That lasted sometimes for more than 15 minutes. Gradually it would drop down to regular idle. If I went on a short trip to the store, with the idle still running high when I got there, the engine would diesel badly when I turned it off. The problem turned out to be the CHOKE COIL which my local Honda Dealer diagnosed. Everything was back to normal after that was replaced (see also message #91)

mangrove

A couple of months ago, a mechanic replaced the fuel pump and rear fuel filter in my 87 Accord LXi. I think it was the original pump at 255,000 miles; no complaints here!

But since then, the car seems to run out of gas although gas gauge reads 1/4 tank full. When I fill the tank, it only takes 9 gallons; capacity is about 15 gal so indeed there was 1/4 tank gas. And I track gas mileage and get the same calculation.

I've been through this process about four times and it's the same everytime. Within about 40 miles of "running out of gas", the car sometimes starts to sputter and I simply clutch or back off the throttle to prevent a stall. As the "empty tank" stage approaches, there's more sputter so I know that I need to get gas.

Mechanic says he doesn't have a clue...and I believe him. He suggests the other fuel filter should be replaced but wouldn't I have a stall no matter how much gas in the tank?

Your thoughts would be VERY welcomed!

mrbill1957

I wonder if something went wrong with the fuel pump replacement.

I would assume the pump assembly also contains the fuel gauge sending unit. Maybe something was bent during replacement, or possibly the wrong unit was installed.

Maybe the pump assembly is defective, it has a hole somewhere and when the gas drops to 1/4 tank, the pump starts to suck air.

Do you have any paperwork with the part number so you can verify you got the right pump assembly?

Just guessing here.

Good luck,

Mrbill

silvercoupe

How is the idle adjusted on this car?

My son-in-law just purchased this car for a work car and it idles very high--around 1800 RPM. I cannot find a screw for adjusting the idle. Is there an idle control valve rather than an adjusting screw?

frenchprincess

Help, My 1989 Honda Accord is not passing the NOx on the emission.And from what i am finding out from the old owner of it. It has never passed one. He ended up getting a conditional pass. Help!!!

thegraduate

It should be closer to, or below 1k RPM I believe, although I'm not as familiar with the carburated versions of the old Accord as I am the F.I. models.

bluheron

THE PROBLEM YOU'RE EXPERIENCING WILL USUALLY ONLY OCCUR AT HIGH HUMIDITY AND LOW TEMPERATURES LESS THAN 50 DEGREES. THE VALVE ON THE AIR CLEANER SNORKEL TUBE IS EITHER STUCK OR BAD. WHEN THIS FAILS, THE CARBEURATOR ICES UP. IF YOU PULL OVER AND SHUT IT OFF FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES, IT RUNS OK UNTIL YOU GET UP TO HIGHWAY SPEED AND IT ICES UP AGAIN.IF THE VALVE CHECKS OUT OK, CHECK THE VACUUM LINE GOING TO IT. ALSO, MAKE SURE THAT THE VALVE IS ATTACHED TO THE FLAPPER INSIDE THE AIR CLEANER TUBE. REPLACING THE VALVE IS EASY. TURN IT 90 DEGREES AND LEFT IT OUT. YOU'LL HAVE TO DISENGAGE THE ROD TO THE FLAPPER TO GET IT ALL THE WAY OUT.

stivers

Both front power windows will not roll down. It Started on the drivers side then eventually went to passengers side also. I assumed it was the motors. When I took the door skin off I found a (power window control box) with two plugs going into it. One has six wires, the other four. I took a jumper wire from one red wire, in the six wire plug, to another red wire in the four wire plug. I pressed the button, and the window rolled down! I can't find the part anywhere, I could search the junk yards. I would like to know if I could just cut the plugs off and splice, pairs of the wires together eliminating the control/relay? box all together? If so I need to figure out the color combination because there are not any matching colors, out of all 10 wires. If anyone knows anything about this problem, or where I can get this box at let me know. Thanks very much! If you own one keep it! They will drive to the moon and back! :P

willwong

Hello all,
I just bought a stick shift 89 honda accord few days ago. I didn't check the condition of the car carefully at that time. After that, I have been practicing driving the car but I figured out that the 'brake lamp' light was always on even when I was not steping on the brake and the hand brake is off. Does anybody know the reason of it? Thanks in advance. :confuse:

willwong

Does anybody know the meaning of "PGM-FI". This light is always on on my 89 honda accord. Thanks for your help. :confuse: