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Honda Accord (1976-1989) Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • dmclaudmclau Member Posts: 2
    My 88 Accord DX, with automatic trans and carburator, will not idle and it stalls at a traffic light unless I keep my foot slightly on the accelerator pedel. Could this be the torque converter ? It feels like the engine is luging slightly durring the attempted idle time. Otherwise it runs very good.

    Awhile back, I put a can of gas conditioner with isopropol alchol in the gas tank it seemed to correct the problem. So at first I thought it had something to do with the carburator or emmision controls. But now, the problem is back and I am puzzled.

    Can anyone help ?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak. Also, check your PCV valve, the valve on my 88 lost the check ball inside and would not idle.

    Mrbill
  • accord88accord88 Member Posts: 1
    I recently had my front bumper ripped off my 1988 Accord LXi, and I'm trying to put it back on myself. The bumper itself is structurally fine, except for the little plastic mounts that the bolts screw into. These were all broken off when the vandal tore it off.

    I'm wondering if it's possible to buy a replacement for just the plastic mount that sits on top of the metal bumper reinforcement bar. Do they maybe sell kits that include all the bolts etc. plus this mount? If not, would a replacement bumper include all these parts? Thanks.
  • boltgunnerboltgunner Member Posts: 2
    84 Accord sedan, A/T, completely restored, carb came from a carb rebuilder, motor sings, new PCV valve and hose, new vacuum hoses, new fuel filters, passes Texas dyno emissions check with room to spare on the numbers, new cat, runs strong - BUT, at idle at a stop sign or a red light, as soon as you apply the gas, there is a bog or hesitation. If you just hold the gas pedal there while it hesitates, it will die. If you gently and slightly pump the pedal during the hesitation then you get through the hesitation and she accelerates just fine. NOTE - if you do not know anything about the feedback carb system on 84's and 95's, your reply may not be applicable. This car broke the mold on complexity with regard to control systems. I have the Honda service manual but Honda did not write that book with troubleshooting in mind, just testing individual systems like fuel pressure and many other control systems relating to the carb. I am looking for a sequence of checks to follow to troubleshoot this, not a bunch of "it might be this" comments, OK? Thanks in advance!
  • zack9zack9 Member Posts: 2
    It must be very hot 85f or above.

    Must have driven the car then parked it for a while.

    The engine turns over but appears to be fuel starved.

    Open hood and wait too or three min. Sometimes longer.

    No check engine light.

    The engine will then catch sometimes I need to press the accelerator several times to encourage it to continue running. Then all is well till the next heat spell.
  • zack9zack9 Member Posts: 2

    The clutch fails to release the engine from the transmission. Here is what happened: I was stopped at a light and pressed the clutch in and the shift lever would not engage. I tried all the gears but no luck. I turned the engine off and was able to engage in all gears. I then engaged first gear and started the beast in gear. The starter motor did its job. With The engine running I could move under power but again could do nothing with the shift lever. Still stuck in first gear I managed to drive to a safe location and call for a tow.
  • honda1974honda1974 Member Posts: 4
    i have an 88 accord lx carb with auto trany. i bought it from a friend whom could not figure it out. when he had it it was kinda hard to start, but would and it ran rough like it was missing. well i called a local shop and checked firing order wired it like they said now it wont start, so i called a honda cert shop got right fire order changed it still wont start? acts like its out of time but iv got fire order correct, checked #1 piston at tdc on comp stroke and it matches #1 on the cap. i was told there is a component in the dist that can and often does affect plug fire. so i changed the dist but same problem the ignitor plugs into the coil can my coil cause this problem?? and if not then what other possabilites are there? thanks :confuse:
  • honda1974honda1974 Member Posts: 4
    oh yeah i forgot to mention that i did a compression check and iv got good compression 125 to 140.
  • honda1974honda1974 Member Posts: 4
    ok disregard the backfire iv got it fixed, but now it runs but wont idle, and there is no power. i dont know how to describe it. i think ill have to break down and take it to a shop. thanks for your time, and i appreciate any ideas.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    sounds like its drowning in fuel or cannot breath (i'm thinking exit). oops sorry - i wasn't supposed to guess...

    let us know what it turns out to be.
  • honda1974honda1974 Member Posts: 4
    they say only fools are sure, and i was sure i had the plug wires on the right plugs, well i didnt. and when i did it didnt backfire and it actually started, go figure. so now it ran but very poor wouldnt idle and after reading some other questions and answers here i went back under the hood looking for vacume leeks and low and behold one hose was disconected from the intake manifold, i pluged it in and walla, runs like a top. thanks for your time and advice.
  • anh3anh3 Member Posts: 75
    88 accord DX, M/T, 221k, carb., great engine rough starts. i observe the plate when it starts cold and it seem that the plate doesn't open up fast enough (i open it fully with my finger and all the shaking stops). the engine shakes, while it seemed to be burning rich (gray-light black smoke coming out tail pipe); especially cold days. It idles opposite of what it should be when starting cold - i have to give it some gas to keep it warm up and it idles high (can go up between 2k-3k rmp) when it half-way warm. a tap on the accel. pedal brings it down to normal idle It idles fine after warmed up, and should the plate stayed open after it warmed up and idles normal? an auto part person told me its running rich, is that right?!
  • nfs480nfs480 Member Posts: 6
    Whenever I pull up to a stoplight in my 1989 Honda Accord SE-I the engine starts to really shake the car and the steering wheel vibrates heavily up and down. Any idea what is causing this and how to fix it? If you need more information please ask.
  • tjrrtjrr Member Posts: 23
    In the event I cannot find help here - do you folks know of another active Honda repair site?

    Car randomly cuts out - no pattern to problem. Occurs while idling, to driving 60+ mph down the highway. When idling, it simply shuts off. When going down the highway, I press the pedal to the metal if I feel it cutting out - the car will buck severely, cutting off and on, but will recover and keep running. When I restart after a stall (car will not necessary start right up), the engine just turns, it does not really try to start, as if no fuel, or no spark perhaps. Suddenly it cranks and will run for some long period of time (days) or will cut out again shortly after. Issue first started in 11/2005.

    A little history---

    11/2004 the carb was replaced with a brand new Honda part due to problems - plugs changed and both (I think two) fuel filters replaced.

    11/2005 - Car unexpectedly stalls (problem described above). Dealer cannot reproduce the problem and wants to change the fuel pump for about $300, but will not work with me on future repair if problem not solved. I replaced the Fuel pump with one from AutoZone. Noticeable hum coming from fuel pump - can hear it running.

    3/2006 - symptons from above return. I noticed the fuel pump was no longer humming, so I figured it failed. Autozone replaced it. I took a flashlight and looked in the tank - don't see any trash.

    10/2006 - sympton reappears. Decide to go with a factory Honda fuel pump. Tonight I drive the car for the first time in weeks. Get to work fine - but have issues with it stalling on the way home

    I assume after 3 fuel pumps, the pump is not the issue. I do not understand why the problem is so random.

    The wife wants me to get rid of it. The interior is great, the outside looks very good - with the exception of this problem, it has been very dependable since day one.

    Does anyone have any thoughts? I plan to bring it to the local dealer, but I have not been very pleased with there ability to diagnose recent problems that I have had.

    BTW, I had to have the ignition switch replace earlier this year(key remained the same) because the blower motor (fan) and radio would cancel each other out - turn on radio and blower would go off, turn blower on and radio would go off - I realized wiggling the key affected this - the dealer did not believe me and went on a $100 / hr hunt only to come back to the switch like I reported originally.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I would have to assume that your 86 has a relay somewhere that controls the electric fuel pump. Since you have replaced the pump, I would suspect the relay could be acting up. If you know what wire is HOT to the fuel pump, you could patch a temporary 12v bulb to it and watch it for a while to see if it stays lit.

    Sorry, I don't know the relay's location.

    Mrbill
  • tjrrtjrr Member Posts: 23
    Good point. The problem has been going on since 8/2005. I cannot recall if I considered the relay or not. I do know there are two boxes under the hood with relays in them. I will investigate further and see if one is clearly labeled as such.
  • dxmandxman Member Posts: 2
    I have an Accord DX with some electrical issues I am not sure if they are related. The rear light bar will not light up when i switch on the headlights. I have a front headlight motor that gets warm when the car is on. My interior dash light has stopped working for a week. All the bulbs have been changed. I am going to replace my combo switch. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah I'd change the combo switch...but have you checked already for current back at the tail lights?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I would think the only time the headlight motor would get warm is if the headlight isn't fully opening or closing. That happened to my 88, and all I did to fix was to lube the pivot points on one side.

    Mrbill
  • dxmandxman Member Posts: 2
    I disconnected the left retractor wire is frayed on the connector. The license plate bulbs are blown. I replaced the fuse for them & the rear tail lights, but the tail lights came one for a moment and went out. the fuse blew as well.I am replacing the license bulbs before adding a fuse.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like some wiring grounding out, if fuses are blowing. You might have to trace the wires from the trunk toward the front of the car until you come to some kind of coupler and look for trouble there. Maybe a clip or brace has pinched a wire.
  • wanger1wanger1 Member Posts: 32
    I attempted to replace the driver's side CV axle on this car on Tuesday the 17th. I got the suspension apart and went to pull the axle out and the butt of the axle closest to the transaxle stayed in the transaxle. I worked for almost 1 + 1/2 hours trying to get it out with no luck. It was getting close to dark, so I greased up the bearings on the old axle and reinstalled it, due to having to drive the car today the 18th to work. Does anyone have any idea how to get this stub out of the transaxle? Any ideas would be helpful. I am a rather large man and I could only get under the car up to my chest. I have pulled on it and pryed on it until I was exausted. I can't figure out why it won't come out. :confuse:
  • shamsonshamson Member Posts: 1
    89 Accord DX - While installing a stereo I accidentially shorted the dashboard lights. I have checked all of the fuses with no luck. Ideas? Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have you tried jiggling the dashboard light dimmer switch?

    Did you actually replace the dash light fuse? Just looking at it might not always tell you what's up.
  • jkaiserjkaiser Member Posts: 2
    My girlfriend has an 87' Honda Accord Carb. automatic. It refuses to start. Won’t even turn over. When we put the key in and turn it all the way to the point right before it starts turning over, everything works. Lights come on etc... But when we turn it to start it all you hear is a click. No turning over... nothin. Sometimes it will turn over and start and run just fine other days it will not. If we play around with the shifter it sometimes start and other times it does not even help. Its kind of like a hit or miss. Other then that the car runs fine... when we can get it to start.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    a tad outside my league here, but for an automatic, a vehicle must be in Park or Neutral in order for the ignition switch, moved to the "Start" position to pick up the coil in something called the Starter Cut Relay. Note, for a Manual Transmission vehicle, the Clutch Interlock switch must be sensing the clutch is pushed in.

    If the Starter Cut Relay coil is energized - a set of contacts close passing power to the Starter Solenoid. If the starter solenoid gets power, it pulls in a set of contacts that apply power from the battery to the starting motor.

    Try starting the vehicle with the A/T in Neutral. If it starts with it in "N" but not "P", you know the problem is probably the switch not sensing the Park position.

    If it will not start in "P" or "N", but you move the ignition to Start and you still hear a click, my thinking is it *may* be either the Starter Cut Relay is bad, or is the Starter Solenoid on the starting motor.

    Since you start and run it so infrequently, you could have an undervoltage condition on the battery. Do you know someone with a Charger? If so, why not give it a good charging before your next attempt.

    Hope it helps.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    When it won't start, have you tried starting in neutral? My 88 has an intermittent safety switch, sometimes it will only start in neutral.

    Mrbill
  • jkaiserjkaiser Member Posts: 2
    sometimes it starts in neutral but not all the time. Somedays it starts in park others in neutral... other days it will not start at all and other days it turns right over first try.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds too random for a battery or neutral safety switch...so I'd guess bad starter solenoid.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    if he's hearing the click each time, i guess i'd agree. if not, then either the ignition switch or the special starter relay.

    but, wasn't the late 80s hondas recalled for ignition switch problems? wouldn't hurt to ask.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well you could hook up a simple test light to the lead going to the starter solenoid and if the light lights every time the key is turned, it's the solenoid.

    A bad solenoid may or may not click, and may also be intermittent. But you bring up a good point...test the currrent flow from the ignition switch first off.
  • adam87accadam87acc Member Posts: 1
    My '87 Honda has the exact same problem. Any information on what else this 'CHOKE COIL' might be known as would be of great use to me. Thanks.
  • 88accord188accord1 Member Posts: 3
    I just bought an 88 Accord hatchback and I have a major power steering leak. The leak is right over the manifold and it gushes out when I turn the steering wheel any suggestions on how to stop it???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's probably one of the two power steering hoses. Not a hard fix. You have to replace the hose or hoses, you can't patch them up, the pressure is very high on ONE of them...on the drain hose you might get away with a temporary patch.
  • 88accord188accord1 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice. I went out and got a new high presure hose and it works fine now. I do have another question my cv boots are bad should I change the whole axle or is it ok to just change the boots???

    I may have a lot of questions cuz this is my first car and I'm trying to do things right and the best possible. I'm looking to fix this car to what it use to be and then some. Does anyone know where the best place to get performance parts for this car is??? :)
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    not positive about this, but if the boots are torn and the grease packing has been lost, you'll probably notice a bliiip bliiip bliiip sound as you make a turn indicating that excessive CV joint wear has already occurred.

    if you don't have any noise, maybe you caught it in time and can replace the boot and packing.

    if the joint is gone, they may advise changing the joint and 1/2 axle, perhaps for cost and effort reasons. i'm not sure to be honest. for example, see this:
    http://www.automedia.com/CV/Rehab/ccr20021101cv/1

    and this:
    http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl029h.htm

    i hope others can provide you better information.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    good suggestions from user777!

    My only other comment is that sometimes, if you paying someone to replace the boots, it might be cheaper to just buy two rebuilt axle kits and plug 'em in. Why? Because with your boots torn, you really want to inspect the CV joints to see how badly worn they are. So you have to disassemble them, clean them, inspect, put on new boots, re-install.

    Just plugging in two rebuilt axles may in fact be cheaper, and then you know you have two good CV joints for a long time to come.
  • wanger3wanger3 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1987 Honda Accord LXi with the 2.0 engine and auto trans. The car has 230,000 miles on it and still runs like a top. It has been making a clicking noise. It is not a CV joint, because it has a little trans problem that will at certain rpm's cause it to jump out of gear while downshifting. If you let off the gas, it will go ahead and shift down and it does it if shifting down to 2nd or 3rd gear and when it jumps out of gear the clicking speeds up no matter how fast or slow you are running. What I wanted to ask was if anyone has any idea what the clicking might be? Also sense it started making this noise the mileage has dropped off 6 to 7 mpg. Could it be the trans clutches?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    if you mean it jumps from one gear into neutral, or what feels like neutral (engine revving up) you have a transmission problem. Check the fluid and if okay drop the pan and look for shiny bits.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    The 87 tranny unfortunately doesn't have a removable pan. Actually, I wonder if any of the Accords have a removable pan? I don't think my 04 has one either.

    Mrbill
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well okay then, warm it up and drain it into a pan and inspect it that way...or drain it through a fine cloth first and see what's in there.
  • gdmacdgdmacd Member Posts: 2
    its an accord 89 2 liter engine.any help with this?
  • wanger3wanger3 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks
  • 84gordo84gordo Member Posts: 1
    I have an 84 Accord with a manual transmission and I need to know what special tools I may need to replace the axles. I'm okay at replacing most parts but this is completely new to me. Thank you for any response. Jim
  • wanger3wanger3 Member Posts: 7
    You can remove the pan, but unfortunately it is a split case and it is a major undertaking. Just for the sake of argument I did discover that part of the problem I have been experiencing was due to a C/V axle going bad. I replaced it, but the car is still doing the trans thing and clicking. I am wondering now if maybe the other trans axle is bad too. As far as the trans operation, it shifts up fine except when cold (Slips a little going into 4th gear) and shifts down fine as long as you are slowing down to come to a stop. I talked to the guy I bought the car from and he said that this was the second trans since the car was new, and that it just needed the fluid changed. Unfortunately on this model you have to drop the slit case and the valve body to change the filter and I'm not going to attempt that myself. It only cost $1,250.00 to have the trans serviced, but that includes new clutches. I can buy a low mileage used trans for about $600.00, so why would I want to pay $1,250.00 to have this one serviced? I can of course just drain the pan and dump 3 quarts of fresh fluid in it and see if that helps it any. I am not going to change out this trans or have the filter changed until it stops working. I just don't make that much money. I would have to save up for 8 or 10 months to come up with $1,250.00, so right now that's out of the question.
  • wanger3wanger3 Member Posts: 7
    Would anyone happen to know if there is another auto trans that will bolt up to the 2.0 in the 87 LXi? These trans they put in these cars are a problem child. I called and talked to the guy I bought this car from and he said this was the third trans in this car since it was new. Of course I guess it depends on how the trans was treated by the previous owner, doesn't it? I was also told that the LXi automatic's engine won't bolt up to the 5-speed. Is that true?
  • 88accord188accord1 Member Posts: 3
    Ok my cars been running good until now. I was coming to a stop sign and for some reason my car just completely shut off. I checked the plugs, distributor, and rotor. I also changed both fuel filters what else could be wrong with it???? :sick:
  • tbone76tbone76 Member Posts: 8
    I have a Honda Accord 1988 LX-i 4cyl 2.0 LT. 150k for miles.Only when I first start the car in the morning and drive it slowly thru my back alley way at 5 MPH.,I hear a very loud squeeeeeeeek coming from the back left tire area when brakes are first applied for the first time in the morning.But this only happens when I first start up in the morning.Once the car is warmed up and driving in town I do not hear it anymore and the braking seems just find with no more squeaking noise.
    What's going on? Any suggestions?
  • me2butch4ume2butch4u Member Posts: 17
    I have 88 accord with 70,000 miles. I put a used automatic tranny in it when I bought it and used one had 55,000 miles on it. When I shift from park to reverse or reverse to drive, it makes a grinding noise. I ask mechanic about it and he said, "Oh, thats an issue with those high rpm motors, there's nothing you can do about it, it's normal." Is this true and is it harming anything when it happens? I can't imagine setting the idle down any lower, as it idles around 700-900 rpms at a warm idle and at this idle, the brand new altinator barely keeps the electrical stuff going. Thanks-deb
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I've noticed the same gear clash when shifting from reverse to drive in my 88 for years. It started around 90k miles ago, and hasn't gotten any better or worse over time. It does seem to go away once the tranny is warm.

    When it first started, I mentioned it to someone that had the same vintage Accord, and theirs also made the noise. They did have the tranny serviced, but the noise returned.

    I would say it's not something to worry about unless it gets real bad. You might want to get a fluid change, and if you do, make sure they use genuine Honda ATF.

    Mrbill
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