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Comments
Awhile back, I put a can of gas conditioner with isopropol alchol in the gas tank it seemed to correct the problem. So at first I thought it had something to do with the carburator or emmision controls. But now, the problem is back and I am puzzled.
Can anyone help ?
Mrbill
I'm wondering if it's possible to buy a replacement for just the plastic mount that sits on top of the metal bumper reinforcement bar. Do they maybe sell kits that include all the bolts etc. plus this mount? If not, would a replacement bumper include all these parts? Thanks.
Must have driven the car then parked it for a while.
The engine turns over but appears to be fuel starved.
Open hood and wait too or three min. Sometimes longer.
No check engine light.
The engine will then catch sometimes I need to press the accelerator several times to encourage it to continue running. Then all is well till the next heat spell.
The clutch fails to release the engine from the transmission. Here is what happened: I was stopped at a light and pressed the clutch in and the shift lever would not engage. I tried all the gears but no luck. I turned the engine off and was able to engage in all gears. I then engaged first gear and started the beast in gear. The starter motor did its job. With The engine running I could move under power but again could do nothing with the shift lever. Still stuck in first gear I managed to drive to a safe location and call for a tow.
let us know what it turns out to be.
Car randomly cuts out - no pattern to problem. Occurs while idling, to driving 60+ mph down the highway. When idling, it simply shuts off. When going down the highway, I press the pedal to the metal if I feel it cutting out - the car will buck severely, cutting off and on, but will recover and keep running. When I restart after a stall (car will not necessary start right up), the engine just turns, it does not really try to start, as if no fuel, or no spark perhaps. Suddenly it cranks and will run for some long period of time (days) or will cut out again shortly after. Issue first started in 11/2005.
A little history---
11/2004 the carb was replaced with a brand new Honda part due to problems - plugs changed and both (I think two) fuel filters replaced.
11/2005 - Car unexpectedly stalls (problem described above). Dealer cannot reproduce the problem and wants to change the fuel pump for about $300, but will not work with me on future repair if problem not solved. I replaced the Fuel pump with one from AutoZone. Noticeable hum coming from fuel pump - can hear it running.
3/2006 - symptons from above return. I noticed the fuel pump was no longer humming, so I figured it failed. Autozone replaced it. I took a flashlight and looked in the tank - don't see any trash.
10/2006 - sympton reappears. Decide to go with a factory Honda fuel pump. Tonight I drive the car for the first time in weeks. Get to work fine - but have issues with it stalling on the way home
I assume after 3 fuel pumps, the pump is not the issue. I do not understand why the problem is so random.
The wife wants me to get rid of it. The interior is great, the outside looks very good - with the exception of this problem, it has been very dependable since day one.
Does anyone have any thoughts? I plan to bring it to the local dealer, but I have not been very pleased with there ability to diagnose recent problems that I have had.
BTW, I had to have the ignition switch replace earlier this year(key remained the same) because the blower motor (fan) and radio would cancel each other out - turn on radio and blower would go off, turn blower on and radio would go off - I realized wiggling the key affected this - the dealer did not believe me and went on a $100 / hr hunt only to come back to the switch like I reported originally.
Sorry, I don't know the relay's location.
Mrbill
Mrbill
Did you actually replace the dash light fuse? Just looking at it might not always tell you what's up.
If the Starter Cut Relay coil is energized - a set of contacts close passing power to the Starter Solenoid. If the starter solenoid gets power, it pulls in a set of contacts that apply power from the battery to the starting motor.
Try starting the vehicle with the A/T in Neutral. If it starts with it in "N" but not "P", you know the problem is probably the switch not sensing the Park position.
If it will not start in "P" or "N", but you move the ignition to Start and you still hear a click, my thinking is it *may* be either the Starter Cut Relay is bad, or is the Starter Solenoid on the starting motor.
Since you start and run it so infrequently, you could have an undervoltage condition on the battery. Do you know someone with a Charger? If so, why not give it a good charging before your next attempt.
Hope it helps.
Mrbill
but, wasn't the late 80s hondas recalled for ignition switch problems? wouldn't hurt to ask.
A bad solenoid may or may not click, and may also be intermittent. But you bring up a good point...test the currrent flow from the ignition switch first off.
I may have a lot of questions cuz this is my first car and I'm trying to do things right and the best possible. I'm looking to fix this car to what it use to be and then some. Does anyone know where the best place to get performance parts for this car is???
if you don't have any noise, maybe you caught it in time and can replace the boot and packing.
if the joint is gone, they may advise changing the joint and 1/2 axle, perhaps for cost and effort reasons. i'm not sure to be honest. for example, see this:
http://www.automedia.com/CV/Rehab/ccr20021101cv/1
and this:
http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl029h.htm
i hope others can provide you better information.
My only other comment is that sometimes, if you paying someone to replace the boots, it might be cheaper to just buy two rebuilt axle kits and plug 'em in. Why? Because with your boots torn, you really want to inspect the CV joints to see how badly worn they are. So you have to disassemble them, clean them, inspect, put on new boots, re-install.
Just plugging in two rebuilt axles may in fact be cheaper, and then you know you have two good CV joints for a long time to come.
Mrbill
What's going on? Any suggestions?
When it first started, I mentioned it to someone that had the same vintage Accord, and theirs also made the noise. They did have the tranny serviced, but the noise returned.
I would say it's not something to worry about unless it gets real bad. You might want to get a fluid change, and if you do, make sure they use genuine Honda ATF.
Mrbill