Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

lilengineerboy

The BRAKE light means there is a fault with the BRAKE system, the ABS light means there is a fault with the ABS system. They are pretty unrelated. The brake light will come on for a loss in brake pressure (busted line, bad master cyl, low fluid) which all have nothing to do with the ABS light.
The ABS light comes on for problems with the speed sensors, problems with the computer brain, or problems with the hydraulic actuator.

No, getting new brake pads will not fix the ABS light.

Mr_Shiftright

No bleeding or draining should be necessary.

The belt deflection is:

BELT DEFLECTION [1]

New Belt 9.5 - 11.5 mm (0.37 - 0.45 in)

Used Belt 12.5 - 16.0 mm (0.50 - 0.62 in)

OR you can use:

BELT TENSION [2]

New Belt 700 - 900 N (70 - 90 kg, 154 - 198 lbs)

Used Belt 350 - 500 N (35 - 50 kg, 77 - 110 lbs)
[1] As measured between pulleys with 22 lbs (10 Kg) of force. A used belt is defined as been continuously running for five minutes.
[2] Using tension gauge.

When using a new belt, first adjust the deflection or tension to the values for a new belt, then run the engine for five minutes and readjust the deflection or tension to the values for used belt.

bubuyog3

My Honda was driving fine yesterday. This morning, I could not start it-- the key would not turn and the shiftstick would not move. My ten-year old son was fumbling inside the car yesterday but he denied touching anything except the garage door opener. What happened? What to do?

Thanks for any advice you can give.

mrbill1957

Try turning the steering wheel one way then the other while turning the key.

Mrbill

bubuyog3

As soon as I read your post, Mrbill, I rushed out and did what you said! It worked !!!
Thank you.. thank you! You're an angel.Now I know better! Now I don't have to call towing service to bring in the Honda to the shop.

You're a blessing!

sullymac

Hi,I have an 91 accord sedan that was working fine until today.The guages on the dash all stopped working.No gas,temp,rpm nothing.I checked the fuse and everything looks good.Any suggestions?

mrbill1957

Glad to hear it worked!!!

When you mentioned your son was in the car, but he didn't say he touched anything, I thought maybe he grabbed the steering wheel, gave it a twist, locking the steering wheel but also locking it under torque. That can lock things up until you turn it.

Mrbill

user777

ahh, MrBill, now that you're an angel, you are allowed to indulge in less earthly explanations.

diyw2b

Any one have DIY suggestions on how to replace the air compressor in a '92 Honda Accord? Is there a simple step by step list of instructions?

Mr_Shiftright

1. If the compressor is marginally operable, run the engine at idle speed and let the air conditioning work a few minutes, then shut the engine off and disconnect the battery negative terminal.
2. Use a Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling System to recover the refrigerant from the system.



3. Remove:

o power steering mounting bolt and nut
o adjusting bolt
o adjusting bolt bracket
o power steering belt
o power steering pump



4. Remove the two cruise control actuator mounting bolts, disconnect the connector and remove the cruise control actuator.



5. Remove the alternator harness clamp and disconnect the alternator harness.



6. Remove:

o alternator mounting bolt and nut
o adjusting bolt
o adjusting bolt bracket
o compressor belt
o alternator



7. Disconnect the connectors from the condenser fan, and remove the connector from the compressor. Remove the three mounting bolts and remove the condenser fan shroud. CAUTION: Do not damage the radiator fins when removing the fan shroud.



8. Disconnect the suction and discharge hoses from the compressor. CAUTION: Cap the open fittings immediately to keep moisture and dirt out of the system.



9. Remove the four compressor mounting bolts and compressor. CAUTION: Do not damage the radiator fins when removing the fan shroud.



10. If necessary, remove the compressor bracket as shown.



11. Install in the reverse order of removal, and:

o If a new compressor is installed, calculate the amount of refrigerant oil in the A/C system by draining the oil through the suction fitting on the old compressor:

100 cc (3 1/3 fl oz) minus contents of old compressor, equals the amount of refrigerant oil to be drained from new compressor.

* Replace 0-rings with new ones at the pipe joints, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them.
* Do not damage the radiator fins when installing the compressor.



* Be careful to connect the alternator harness as shown.
* Adjust the belt.
* Charge the system.
* Test the performance.

cybercool

Hi all,

When I called autozone for a price check for the oxygen sensor, I was told there is two in my 93' Accord EX. And they're not identical on top of that. Is this true? Can someone reconfirm this?

Thanks
Cybercool

elroy5

Yes, it has two oxygen sensors, one before the cat converter (the one you can see with the hood open, and one after (you have to get under the car to see this one). The one after the converter is a heated sensor (usually more expensive), and has three wires instead of two. Make sure to change the right one. Many aftermarket sensors (the cheaper ones) are universal, and do not plug directly in without splicing wires.

cybercool

Thanks elroy5

You're very helpful. I can't really see the one before the cat converter with hood open. Maybe I'm looking at wrong location. I was told it's underneath and in front of cat converter. If I buy the parts (sensors) do you think it'll be expensive to replace? Do I have to replace both?

Thanks
Cybercool

lastwraith

I know this post is old but....Suggest you give it a shot of flammable liquid (starting fluid - not something stupid) in the intake to see if it starts up. If it does, then you KNOW it's a fuel delivery problem and you should check for a main relay failure or some other very common occurrence on our vintage of Accords.

good luck

lastwraith

Usually this problem goes away at high revs if it's a clogged EGR valve, but it's worth a check. Perhaps there was buildup in the intake and you dislodged it (or some of it) directly into the EGR valve. It happens. Disconnecting/removing/replacing the EGR will let you test out this theory.

Cleaning out the EGR (soak) and it's assorted passages (poke) is a summer project due on my baby, so I'm with you in spirit until it gets a bit warmer

lastwraith

I agree, a fluid change (to the right one - ATF-Z1) made my Accord's shift characteristics a whole lot nicer but it's not going to regenerate mechanical damage.

I doubt a flush is a good idea, or necessary, on high mileage cars but you are crazy to NOT CHANGE at least some of the fluid at a time. What's the point of letting the stuff sit in there, lose all it's cooling/lubricity, and then shell out for a new tranny or ditch the car? Anyone who recommends that (barring some very special vehicular circumstances) should probably have the bottle taken from their hand and be given a spot to catch a nap. :shades:

As for "evidence", my vehicle is @ 205K using the drain and fill only method (I bought the car with about 100K on it already). Granted, Accords seem like they could run to 200K with rocks in there as lubrication but I think this is the smartest way to maintain the tranny. Then again, YMMV!

elroy5

How do you know one of the sensors is bad?

rajkmr02

I am driving a HOnda Accord SV4 year 95.the problem is whenever i speed,merely 20 kmh,a noise comes from the engibe,similiar to the ones Harley davidson bikes produce..i have just got my car Top over hauled,replacing major componenets like Blocks,piston,rings etc..why is this noise ?

lastwraith

Not really the correct forum, you should post in the group containing your model year ideally. And...I don't know.

bubuyog3

Hi Angel Mrbill! You make sense about the lock-up of the steering wheel.- thanks for the explanation!

slucia

1991 accord 300k. Car ran at lunch time but would not start at the end of the day. Turns over. Has gas, does not sound like it is firing at all. Checked distributor and replaced rotor and cover. Cam is spinning so I know the timing belt is not broken. Tried starter fluid into the intake but no fire. Put a screwdriver into the spark plug cap and held near ground but no spark. Any ideas?
Thank you.

user777

a relay or the ignition switch.

90coupegak

2 part question guys-1. a/c condenser fan fuse keeps blowing so I replaced the condenser fan motor to no avail, it seems to happen (after the ac is on and the fan has worked for 5 minutes) with a slight jolt to the rpms as if their was a vacuum leak. Also 2. the a/c was ok at 75-80 degrees but at 90 the car is a sweatbox, I tried to charge it with new style refrigerant as i've seen it work on other cars but attempting that just made the front and firewall connection pins start leaking. I covered them with the plastic caps and now there's no cold air whatsoever. Ohh by the way the belt starts squeeking at takeoff w/ the a/c on but goes away in 2nd gear/higher rpms. Heeelp, any input would be greatly appreciated. thanx.

kiawah

You'll need a good air conditioner guy to answer this question, and to look at your vehicle. The belts squealing, suggest that the a/c compressor is bound up too tight and putting too much a load on the belts. No cooling, would suggest too much, or not enough freon. It's actually the difference in pressure across the orifice (ie. the flow thru the orifice), which creates the cooling. If the low side pressure isn't low enough, you don't get the flow you need. Not low enough low side, can be cause by an orifice letting too much thru, too much freon in the system (high side doesn't have enough room to allow the low side to be pulled down), or the compressor not good enough to be able to pull down a vacuum..

Not enough high side pressure, is either a bad compressor, or orifice too large. Too much high side pressure, clogged orifice or bad pressure switch not turning off the compressor clutch.

I've never switched freon types (or heard of anyone doing that), that seems like a disaster in the making.

I'd get it to a good a/c guy. Expect charges for a purge, perhaps a new compressor (expensive), perhaps a new orifice (cheap), perhaps a new accumulator (medium $), and a refill with the correct freon. Pressure switch if needed.

Fukuyama

just for the record I did the 3 change sof ATF fluid recommended by elroy5 ..a year and 10000 later and the shifting is smoother than ever

Fukuyama

I idid the replace from freon12 to r-134 a month ago. Not me, a mechanic, he vacuumed the compressor,clean it, clean valves, nuts, everything that could be cleaned . Put new lubricant, an adaptor that goes on the freon valve next to the radiator top so you can connect the new freon r-134a canister. put new R-134 and I have AC again... He told me to let the car run for a day and then put more gas. I got the "artic" canister with the pressure gauge on top..and I went all the way to 35 Psi If I recall well (half way on the full zone on the pressure gauge that come with the canister) so far it has been working fine.

twa727

nice to know! I think I'll be doing that here fairly soon! thanks for the input.

kiawah

Then take it back to the mechanic for sure.

Fukuyama

Hi kiawah,
now you are scaring me... did he miss something ? I can see bubbles in the receiver drier tanks, which was not replaced.

any suggestion?

kiawah

Sorry, I thought you were the original poster who was still having the a/c problems, and had just done all of that work to the a/c. I didn't page all the way back, just replied to the reply.

If anyone paid to have all of that work done on it, and was still having problems, then take it back to the mechanic who did the work to fix it right. You don't want to have to pay for all of the freon evacuations and refills.

90coupegak

guys the ac condenser fan fuse keeps blowin after working for 5 minutes or so. I changed the fan motor with no difference, changed the fuse to a 20 amp instead of the recommended 15 amp; that lasted 5 minutes longer and that blew, any ideas??? ohh the fuse blows when the rpms drop slightly (like a vacumm leak)as if i was putting the defrost on or the wipers or pressing the door locks which i'm not doing. the ac has to be on obviously for the fuse to blow bc the fan is supposed to work as soon as u turn the ac on. thanx

orbluesman

1992 Accord DX had a brake fluid leak at the front wheel. Fluid went too low and brake light came on. I added fluid and tightened the banjo nut that was leaking. Have since bled the brake lines, but the pedal still slowly goes to the floor, but only while the egine is running. When engine is off, it's firm. Also, after pressing the pedal and releasing, the idle increases. Some have suggested the brake booster may have a leak, others have said the master cylinder is now bad since my bleeder helper pushed the pedal to the floor during the bleeding. Boo hoo Any thought on the best path and procedures? Much obliged in Oregon.

mrbill1957

You mentioned that the fuse blows when the RPMs drop. Could the RPM drop be from a heavy load on the alternator when the fuse blows? Maybe there is some sort of a short from a cut wire rubbing somewhere?

What if you unplug the condenser fan for the A/C, and see if the fuse blows? I don't know whats all on that fuse, you may need to put a smaller value fuse to see if it pops without the fan.

Sorry, not much help

Mrbill

Fukuyama

hi all,

I hope someone can help me with this mess.
car:
Honda Accord 1990 DX

Since I got this car the condenser fan has been disconnected.
At the beginning it was directly connected to the wiper current
intake so it ran as soon as I put my key in. Needless to say ,
I burned 2 fans. I got a new radiator wit both fans,
but I don;t want to burn a third fan. I am putting some pictures

picture one is straight from the manual of honda accord 1990



I marked the items with number so they can be identified in the real pictures

picture 2...my car:



so the compressor clutch relay, the diode and the condenser fan relay are present...at least physically

picture 3 is interesting



number 2 shows the pressure switch connector. next to the stick used to hold the hood open, there is a [i]relay? [/i] attached to the front.. this was always there it has four cables going into it. I cannot find this relay in picture 1(the wiring for the AC system by honda manual). In yellow crosses I show two open cables they had tape on them when I got the car. I tested both opened cables for voltage, i got no reading. I wonder if the condenser fan should be connected to those cables?

Does anyone know if honda built in USA came with a different wiring? or is this a rewiring of the original wiring for the AC system?

I have been using the AC without condenser fan without problem, Temperature hasn't risen so far while driving with AC on , even with the fan off.

Any help will be appreciated... I am trying to put this princess all together.

PS: I don;t see the high pressure valve for the A/C system...where is supposed to be (near the pressure switch connector)

cybercool

Hi all,

When starting up my 93' Accord, gas already in tank, engine cranks after long startup. After adding more gas (regular) I noticed hesitation when depressing gas pedal. I had a friend install a new fuel pump back in Dec 2007. Can this be a fuel gauge pressure problem? Where should I start to look for problems? I don't want to spend too much $$$

Thanks
cybercool

mm04

I'm hopping the experts here can help me resolve this problem. OK here is whats going on.

Turned the key to crank the engine, car starts for about 1 second then stops. Try to restart car and all it will do is crank. I can let the car sit over night and it will start right up. This has happened about 4 times now over the past year. Two days ago, same thing, except this time the car would not start after sitting overnight. On the third day, it started right up.

A local mechanic suggested that it might be an electronic fuel injection relay. He said that it’s a common problem for that era Accord. He also stated that to make sure it’s the relay; I need to get the car to act up again. As with any intermittent problem, the car starts every time now.

I would replace the relay and hope it resolves my problem; however this part cost around $90.00. Any help is appreciated.

elroy5

Read this link. It could help you determine if the relay is the problem or something else is amiss. When I sold my 92 it had an extra relay in the trunk, because I had bought one, then found out the problem was the fuel pump. Good luck.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/

nefnef611

Ok guys and gals heres a question (and sorry if its repetetive) ok so when im driving my car... uh lets say 15 minutes my 90 honda accord shuts off and i get a battery light and an oil light. it wont start. so then i use starting fluid, runs then shuts off after a 1/4 of a mile drive.i also get the same light when i park my car in the parking lot for hours under the blazin sun. i have checked my oil and yeah im slightly over filled, but i feel it isnt the problem. i have bought cap and rotor, wires and plugs and the main relay, cuz it wouldnt start during the hot weather and read that those go bad, and plan to work on my car tomorrow. someone has also told me that i might have a bad vapor canister which is why it was starting during hot weather. someone else said it could be my icm(ignition control moduel). any one have any ideas or advice on what to do?

gregsurfdog

My A/C compressor went out the other day on my 93 Accord LX, I am in the process of purchasing a replacement compressor. My accord has been fitted for the R134 freon......does this matter when purchasing a compressor. I have only found a couple of places online that list the part as for R12 or R134. Thanks for any feedback you can give me.

thegraduate

Oil Light = Low Oil Pressure

The oil light doesn't indicate a problem with how much oil is in the car. However, I'm thinking that the oil light and electrical system light coming on is no different than if you turn your car to the ON position without starting it; you get all the same lights. After all, your car is in the ON position after it quits, and is effectively in the same boat that the car was in before you started it in the first place, if you catch my drift.

In other words, I wouldn't put too much stock into the lights. I don't know how to help you otherwise, but thought I'd share my thinking with you. Best of luck!

camacho94

Hello, I had the same problem with my car. Sometimes when it is parked in the heat it wont start, it justs keeps cranking. Also when you 've just turned the car off. The problem could be either the "MAIN RELAY" located cunder the drivers side dash up high, and/or the distributor.

Fukuyama

Hi,

I noticed today, the battery light turned on when I turned the AC on. I shut the AC off, and battery light turned off. At the beginning I thought it was because I have not driven for quite a long time(less than a month though)

I measured the voltage in the battery and it read 13 something with engine off and 14 with the engine on (I was by myself, I am going to check it again later)..

Something funny though is that the alternator belt has had some STICKY (really sticky) substance for a while..it is not oil, power steering or transmission fluid.... any idea?

Compressor kicks in and blows cold air....

Help please....any idea would be great..at least where should I look into?

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like the belts are slipping. You are feeling burned rubber.

elroy5

I measured the voltage in the battery and it read 13 something with engine off and 14 with the engine on (I was by myself, I am going to check it again later)..

I don't think you can tell how strong a battery is that way. I would take the car to Autozone, and have them hook up a battery tester. My old battery was basically reading the same as yours, but it was too weak, and was causing other electronic malfunctions. The battery would start the car, but when I did start it, it would drain so much of the battery's power, it was causing communication problems for the computer.

204meca

204meca

This is for a 88 Accord Lxi, 2.0 engine I just acquired with 354K & orginal motor which is running well . I was concerned about replacing the timing belt, but the manual has no indication of this in the maintenance section. Do this engine have a timing belt? If so, what is the change intermval? THANKS

mrbill1957

Timing belt for an 88 Accord LX or LXI is every 90K miles.

Mrbill

Fukuyama

Hi, the sticky part is on top of the belt ...it has no contact with the pulleys... i can smell some burning stuff, too

Ok here is another test I ran,

Battery engine off 12.77 V

engine idling hig beams on 12.3 V

increase motor speed to 1500 rpm it reads 12.53

mainteinening the same rpm turning high beam lights off 12.68

I guess the Alternator is DEAD...

my new question is why is not the battery light on the dash board on?(it turns on when I start the car)

and For how long can I drive with a bad alternator ? I don;t want to get stuck on my way to the mechanic

cheers

I am in Canada so no Autozone

Fukuyama

hi there,
So I took the power steering pump off to have access to the alternator. I took the alternator belt too. Couldn't take the alternator because of a funny nut underneath which needs a long 12mm socket .Sad(

I checked all electric contacts...fine... it was suspicious that the alternator will work at high rpm but not at idle or with A/C on...so I tried to check every part involved in it.

The "Crankshaft pulley" which is connected to the engine and has two pulleys (one big one that connects with alternator and compressor) and the small one that connects it with the power steering pump.

I notice I could easily rotate the big one (alternator crankhsaft compressor) once I took the alternator belt.... but I could not rotate the small one (crankshaft - powersteering)..there is a sort of rubber band between them.

Is this normal? ...in case it is not...what are the consecuences Sad should I drive it to the mechanic or tow it away?

Mr_Shiftright

Well yeah that does sound like a dead alternator. Haven't a clue about the sticky stuff---did you or anyone use "belt dressing" on the belt at some point? If so, DON'T do that anymore. That crap ruins belts and alternators.

The red light on the dash is merely a light that is lit by battery current. Even the smallest charge from the alternator will shut it off.