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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    about hte thermsotast and the mileage, I am noticing it already!

    eventhough the car was on stands, i ran it from 1-4 speed and reverse several times. ANd paid attention to the color of the fluid during the several drains. the last one had pretty much the same color as the new fluid.

    user777 i used pretty much the 9 qts. Less than 8 oz left in the last qt. I kept it just in case after the fluid settles down down,I might need to ad some more.

    Anohter curiosity, since i instaled the thermostat, i had to do the drain adn refill of the cooling system. Eventhough it takes more than a gallon to do the whole refill, the autoparts stores sell the antifreeze by gallons. So they make you buy two gallons, eventhough you are gonna used 1 and 1/4 or less.

    yes elroy, my hondy runs smoother now. I can hardly feel the tran kicking in. 4th speed reached at 40 mph. i have to be careful now , i just step on the gas pedal and rpm goes up pretty quick....he is a fighter!!!

    guys thanks again for this forum. speaking of this, i was looking for some hints about water in the trunk, and a user here sent me to a 'honda only forum' telling me the answer was there....not exactly..this is the best honda forum i have found
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Don't know about the capacity of the cooling system, I would have to look that up. This does, however, lead me to ask a few questions. When you refilled the cooling system, did you turn the heater all the way up, and bleed the system of air? It can cause problems if you don't do it right.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    yes i did, tehre is a bolt near the thermostat area that you have to open so the air can bleed out
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Great! It's all good then. Good luck on the trip. :)
  • i replaced the thermal switch. checked the relays. the relay doesnt get 12v so something before the relay is bad. the fan itself works when bypassed. need info on cooling fan control. both switches on engine seem to work. the on by the thermostat is open and closed when supposed to. the one behind it on the engine is the thermal switch wich i replaced. it has one wire on it. then there is one behind that.
  • the fan is good. the relay is good. the switch is good. can it be the radiator fan timer? its located under the carpet on the passenger side. the relay is not getting the 12v required to turn it on. i am stumped cause i havent checked the timer yet. but its an expensive part so i wanna be sure that is it. anyone have any ideas on how to test it before i buy the part? thanks.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Use this link. It may help you solve the problem. Good luck.
  • shanakasshanakas Posts: 1
    Hi, new to this forum. i have a 92 EX coupe M/T with 150k miles. car runs great, but for a few minor things.

    1. car noticeably shakes around 1800rpm to about 3000rpm, mainly in 2nd and 3rd gear. more noticeable when accelerating hard. however, if i stay on that gear and in that rpm range, it will go away. i ruled out axles/half shafts and think it's possibly the EGR ports clogged. i want to make sure before i spend for this....any thoughts?

    2. my car idles low after warmed up. i'd say around 600rpm. it gets lower when i use any power accesories, like sunroof or windows. anything wrong with this?

    3. how can i find an OEM alarm key fob. my car is fitted with the dealer installed honda oem security system. apparently, it is so rare, that my dealer has no info on this. i know it works, as the light blinks, but it is in valet mode as i do not have the key fob to activate it. any ideas???

  • waliswalis Posts: 35
    Hi engineer, I got the valve cover kits for my Honda but I'm a little stuck. I received three sets of gasket plus the valve cover gasket itself. Now, my problem is with the four thin gaskets that I just can figure out where they go. I have the obvious ones figure out (since they were present when I removed the valve cover)...the main gasket going around the cover, the four thick gaskets going inside the groves in the valve cover, the four that go around the silver, the last set of four thin gaskets is the one I can't figure out. Please guide me as to where and how they should fit. Thank you so much!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    now, the last set of four thin gaskets is the one I can't figure out.

    Do you mean o-rings (little rubber circles)? If so, these go under the rocker arm assembly. These are a lot more difficult to change. When you put the little chrome nuts on the valve cover, be careful not to over tighten them. The little studs are easy to break off. The torque for the little nuts is only 7-lb.ft. I suggest using a nut-driver, or 1/4" drive socket-driver with a socket to tighten them. Using something larger (like a ratchet) you would be more likely to snap the studs off, which would create a big problem (replacing stud bolts). If oil is getting into the spark plug tubes it will likely be necessary to change the o-rings, unfortunately. Good luck
  • waliswalis Posts: 35
    thank you so much 'elroy'. I'd do the ones I can do and hope for the best. If the oil still leaks, I'd then come back here to seek guidance once again and tackle the difficult one. Thanks again!
  • robo_geekrobo_geek Posts: 20
    the idle speed is controlled by the EACV (Elect air control valve).

    when accessories come on, alternator should go into higher output mode, and ECU signal should boost idle via EACV

    If idle is too slow, either you've got a vacuum leak, eacv is sticking, or somehow it's not getting the right input from the ecu. The EACV has a filter screen that can be cleaned with solvent, and the whole valve can be easily washed out with solvent if it's sticking. If you're getting a misfire under load, that could also be a vaccum leak.

    You should run a compression test as well as a test for vacuum leaks.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    Sorry Walis, I totally forgot to check this forum. Elroy has good credibility with this stuff too.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I had to change the o-rings in my old 92 Accord. It's not a difficult job. The hardest part for me was setting the valves (seems like you need three hands). :)
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    hello roy, 1670 miles, the 'enterprise' arrived safe and sound to montreal .

    Only one problem though it might happen to anyone of you. brake lights were on even with the engine off. there is a small flexible plastic attached to the brake pedal which opens and closes a small switch. in my car it fell off, so i replace with a piece of plastic for the rest of the trip. If that happens and you don;t see it right away it will drain your battery and it can be a pain in the neck.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Ah, the dreaded brake switch :cry: . It can also prevent the shift lever from coming out of park (if the switch gets stuck in the other position). So has the problem been fixed? Keep checking it, to make sure. Everything else working out ok, I hope. Good luck
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    yeah man, a piece of plastic glued with some gum did it for the rest of the trip! :D need to put a flexible material like silicone or something similar...looks like hard plastic won't do it
  • Well I just want to say thanks to everyone who shared their knowledge from experience with me. The triple flush of the transaxle was the answer. I have only owned this 1990 Accord EX for 7 months and have spent more time under it than driving it. First, two hoses blew the first day I owned it, then the air idle control valve started having seizures, the high pressure line for the power steering, the seal on the distributor, the harmonic balancer fell off on the freeway, the left front cv boot blew and two lug studs had been cross threded with an impact so i got those at the same time, the transaxle slippage, and just the other day both cv boots on the right front blew all over so I am GIVING UP! She is for sale. I am a single mother of two young girls, looking for work and I do all my own repairs. I'm pretty sure I have spent more on parts and tow trucks than I did on the whole car (I know my labor alone exceeds the purchase price) :sick: Anyway what I'm trying to say is thanks for everyone's help and suggestions but I'm gonna call it quits. What a shame too because this was the first "PRETTY" car I have ever owned, darn. I just hope whatever I end up with next isn't as much of a challenge. thanks again to this forum and all of you. ;)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Sorry to hear about your experience. Sounds like the car has been through 18 years of hell. Hope you didn't pay too much for it. And I hope you have better luck with your next car. :(
  • I have a new master cylinder to replace my old one and was wondering if anyone knows of a link that might help me. The removal and install looks pretty straight-forward but the bleeding will take some time. Any suggestions?

    Thank You,
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    The bleeding isn't soo bad, just a matter of making sure you get all the air out, starting with the wheel furthest from the MC. Oh, what model is it, EXs w/ABS have a separate reservour that I think requires being bled also, IIRC.
  • 397864397864 Posts: 8
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Bleeding is much easier with a vacume pump. Two other advantages of the vacume pump are you don't need another person, and the old fashioned way causes many master cylinders to fail. When the brake pedal goes to the floor, the rod is pushed much further than it usually goes, so if there is any corrosion on the shaft, it tears up the seals. This is the Honda recommended sequence.
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  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    I am a tie rod changin' mad-man. I can't tell you how many people have come up to me and said they were getting a new car because of the steering not working right on their Accord. Many times its a clunk over bumps, sometimes its a cluck when turning, or vibration on the highway felt through the steering. Grab the wheel at 3 and 6 and wiggle back and forth. If it rattles, I would replace tie rod. The big thing to remember is how many threads it takes to unscrew it, so you know how far to put the new one on.
    45 minutes and <$100 later, they are on their way again. The other thing is the upper control arm ball joint. If you have your hands at 12 and can push pull, thats likely the culprit.
  • Thanks Elroy. That diagram is very helpful. I've looked into vacuum pumps before and they seem to be priced for mechanics. Are there cheaper ones out there that aren't so expensive? Also, I read somewhere that you should pre-fill the master cylinder before installation but I can't figure out how the fluid would not leak.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    What I have is a small hand held vacume pump. I don't remember how much it cost, but if it would have been a lot, I would not have one. It also comes in handy for testing vacume systems (with the gauge). If you put the cap on the master cylinder, it should not leak out. I would not put too much in, just enough to bench bleed the MC.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    Hi all,
    I am thinking of doing the oil change. So many types and 5-30 10-40 I don't really know which one to put in. My honda has 133k miles. Some mechanics say the thicker the better, some other says put the oil the manual says....what do you think? :confuse: :confuse:
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    what the manufacturer recommends.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    thought about that but the manufacturer recommends Dextron for transmission fluid, and I learnt here, dextron makes shifting harder(i used atf-z1 from h-dealer :confuse: )...that;s why i am in doubt :confuse:
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i've never ever known honda to recommend anything other than Honda ATF for their transmission fluid.

    but you asked about engine oil right, or did i misread your post?
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