Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

elroy5 · February 2008

The 7th gen V6 Accords have timing belts (105k miles). The water pump should be inspected at that time, because it's the only time you get to see the water pump. The water pump on the 4 cylinder wouldn't need changing, unless it fails. Haven't heard of that happening yet. If you use the right coolant (Honda), and it is changed at the maintenance interval, the pump should last the life of the car.

according2u06 · March 2008

Thanks elroy5. Very good info! I wonder why Honda didn't use timing chain for the V6 as well when they made the change for the 4 cyl of the same gen? I wonder if the 08 V6 still uses the belts? hmm...

So, I don't have to replace the water pump with proper maintanence? Awesome!

I haven't changed the coolant though(only added some as needed). Is it supposed to be changed at about 30k or longer/shorter interval? Also, I didn't use the Honda coolant when I did use it. I used a brand called Prestone that I obtained from the Advance Autoparts store. Is this brand okay? It does say it's certified for many makes.:confuse: Or using any other brand might damage the water pump? I'll switch to Honda brand immediately if that's the case.

elroy5 · March 2008

I wonder why Honda didn't use timing chain for the V6 as well when they made the change for the 4 cyl of the same gen?

I think it's because the chain would be very long, heavy, and noisier. Although the belt does have to be changed, it has a lot of benefits.

I didn't use the Honda coolant when I did use it. I used a brand called Prestone that I obtained from the Advance Autoparts store. Is this brand okay? It does say it's certified for many makes. Or using any other brand might damage the water pump?

Did it say Honda specifically? I doubt it. The maintenance interval for changing the coolant is 120k miles, but there is no way I was going to wait that long. I've changed my coolant at 50k miles. Since it's not a good idea to mix types of fluids (coolant, brake fluid, transmission fluid, etc.) and all the fluids do not drain out when doing a change, I would rather be safe than sorry.

according2u06 · March 2008

Did it say Honda specifically? I doubt it. The maintenance interval for changing the coolant is 120k miles, but there is no way I was going to wait that long. I've changed my coolant at 50k miles. Since it's not a good idea to mix types of fluids (coolant, brake fluid, transmission fluid, etc.) and all the fluids do not drain out when doing a change, I would rather be safe than sorry.

You are right, it didn't specifically mention Honda. But it did mention it's ok for most makes and models, and since Honda is a major car company, I thought it's safe to assume that Honda was included. No?

So 50k is good for changing all the fluids... I'll make sure I'll change all the fluids by then. One more question, it should be okay to change something a lot earlier right? Because I already changed the auto trans fluid at around 15k(I did use the Honda factory AT fluid for this one, since I don't want to experience one of those transmission failures :P).
Thanks again.

elroy5 · March 2008

"Most makes and models" doesn't mean "Honda", at least not to me. I also changed my tranny fluid at 15k miles (Honda ATF-Z1). The brake fluid should be changed every 3 years, regardless of mileage. I just thought 120k miles was way too long for coolant change, so I did it at 50k miles. I use all Honda fluids and maintenance items, because I want my car to operate like this for 10 years or more, and will not skimp on maintenance. For most maintenance, I go with what the owner's manual states, but for coolant and transmission fluid (over 100k miles seams extreme) and oil changes. I rather spend a little more on maintenance, and hopefully spend less on repairs later. To each his own.

according2u06 · March 2008

Ok I see, I'll make sure to get one of those Honda factory coolant sometimes, and will also take it to the dealer when it's time to change the coolant(since I can't do it myself). Glad to know you also changed your AT fluid at 15k, like I did. Oh yeah, I also believe it's better to do preventive maintenance than being forced to fix something when it breaks. It's usually cheaper to do preventive maintenance than otherwise anyways.
Thanks for your input, it's all very helpful.

thegraduate · March 2008

My maintenance minder didn't tell me to change the transmission fluid when it indicated my last service (just shy of 29k). I'm going to go with the car's indication of changing the fluids.

I mentioned to my granddad he ought to have his Civic's transmission serviced. He has never had it done in 115k miles. His 255k mile 1987 Civic Wagon had one transmission service in its life, he says, at 180k or so.

according2u06 · March 2008

My maintenance minder didn't tell me to change the transmission fluid when it indicated my last service (just shy of 29k). I'm going to go with the car's indication of changing the fluids.

I thought about changing the AT fluid at 30k too. But my car was feeling a little rough at the time, and since I could not pinpoint exactly the problem to ask the dealer to fix it, I thought it could have something to do with the AT fluid, especially since I also read somthing about Honda trans failures. So, I decided to replace it the same time when I did the oil change.... My car was smoother afterwards but it turned out the AT fluid was pretty clean, so it probably had nothing to do with it.

I mentioned to my granddad he ought to have his Civic's transmission serviced. He has never had it done in 115k miles. His 255k mile 1987 Civic Wagon had one transmission service in its life, he says, at 180k or so.

I'll never try that with my car. That's pushing the car beyond its limits. The fact that his car lasted 255k miles is what I call 'automotive miracle'.

elroy5 · March 2008

When the transmission fluid is changed, the amount of particles attached to the drain plug's magnet gives me an indication on if it should be changed sooner, or later, the next time. It will always have some accumulation, but you don't want it to be thick on the magnet. I have the V6 (different transmission) and it was recalled, so I guess I'm being a little over protective. The 4 cylinder automatics have never been problematic, so I think you could go to at least 30k before a change. Like grad said, many people have gone a long way without a change. It works out fine for most of them.

according2u06 · March 2008

The 4 cylinder automatics have never been problematic, so I think you could go to at least 30k before a change. Like grad said, many people have gone a long way without a change. It works out fine for most of them.

Gotcha! I'll be safe to change it on a longer interval. Not as long as the 180k thegrad mentioned though lol. Tha't's quite a story, but I think that probably has more to do with his grandpa's driving style, more than anything. So 30k it is!

srizvi1 · March 2008

Thanks for the replies tankbeans & thegraduate.

tankbeans scared me for a second with that $715 quote for his 95 Accord EX I4's timing belt change, but luckily (thanks to the graduate's post), I don't have to worry about this since I have a timing chain in my car. To reiterate thegraduate's reiteration, 2.4L 4-cyl in the 2003-present Accords don't have a timing belt to be replaced.

And thanks to elroy5 for his advice on the water pump on the 4 cylinder. To reiterate that also, it wouldn't need changing, unless it fails (he hasn't heard of that happening yet). And using the right coolant (Honda), changed at the maintenance interval, would make the pump last the life of the car.

I just checked my 2004 Accord Sedan Auto 4-cyl EX's owner's manual, and here's what it said about the coolant:

SERVICE / MAINTENANCEMAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
120,000 mi/192,000 km/10 yrs Scheduled Maintenance
Recommended service for your 2004 Honda Accord:
Replace engine coolant, then replace every 60,000 mi/96,000 km/5 yrs.

Hope this helps summarize everything related to the timing chain, water pump, and coolant for at least my car.. but possibly all 2003-2007 4-cylinder Accords?

fairshadow · March 2008

Hello,

I bought new Honda accord 2007 Ex in July,2007. Currently my car is having 3000mile odometer reading with 50 percent oil life remaining. When should I go for oil change and servicing, Has it to do with timeline or how many miles it has run. Not sure, what to follow to keep my car under warranty and good condition

wildman63 · March 2008

Most transmissions should either be serviced regularly or ignored... if you haven't serviced it for over 100K, don't do it. Most transmissions will run well for the life of a car, provided the fluid isn't burned. If the fluid is dark red (not black) simply draining and filling (this doesn't get the stuff out of the torque converter) every 30K or so is prudent. If you've done this regularly, keep doing it. If the fluid is discolored, it may be too late. Flushing a 100K tranny (first servicing) and re-filling is chancey because seals will probably fail.

elroy5 · March 2008

What technicians advise against is power flushing, where the fluid is forced through the transmission under pressure. Power flushing can force particles into small places, where they can clog things up. What Honda considers a (safe) flush is 3 drain and fills, with a short drive in between each change. This method will not hurt anything, and is probably described in your owner's manual. I prefer to change it often enough that a flush will never be necessary.

tallman1 · March 2008

When should I go for oil change and servicing

Wow... you don't drive very many miles! I would recommend following the Maintenance Minder system for your car. There is no need to change the oil too soon. In fact, you shouldn't make the initial change early because there is an additive in the oil to take care of the new engine.

Most of us try to change the oil when the MM gets down to 15% or so. Now if you don't get that far after one year, then change it anyway. That part is in your owner's manual too.

fairshadow · March 2008

tallman1

Thank for your reply, my office was so near my home(hardly 1 mile) that i did not drove much.Now I stay 8 mile from office,so I would add some milage to my car and maybe explore Florida where I stay and nearby state georgia. Other three side of Florida is water , cannot go far.

victor15 · March 2008

I Have a 2003 Accord manual sedan with 35000 miles. My first oil change was synthetic, will there be a problem if I switch back to regular oil. Also I have never changed the transmission oil .

Victor

elroy5 · March 2008

I would just go with the severe conditions interval in the owner's manual (60k miles) on the manual transmission. There's not much that can go wrong with a manual, compared to an automatic. I don't think switching from synthetic to regular oil will hurt anything in the engine, but I would try to stick with one type.

srizvi1 · March 2008

Thanks for the info here Tallman... my wife bought her '07 Accord on 9/30/07 and I believe she's at around 4500 miles and 30% oil life. I'll let it get to 15% or less before I go in for an oil change.

I'm used to my '04 Accord Sedan 4 cylinder EX where I have to do the oil change every 10k miles.

Any thoughts on using regular oil vs synthetic oil? That's what I've been using in my '04 Accord since pretty much the beginning - nothing but Mobil 1. I'm wondering what to do in my wife's '07 Accord.

buckr · March 2008

Thanks for info Belt, right after they fixed the water pump a vibration started with the steering wheel from the engine. I went to Honda and told them the engine mount was lose, they were like okay? I was right, they had to adjust the right engine mount because it was lose, like the 2004 models mention in this site!

user5 · March 2008

Did you have to pay for fixing the engine mount? Was there any recall on engine mounts? In my case they charged me heftly?
What are the signs of a lose or broken mount?
Is there a way to figure out how many mounts were replaced on Hondas?
To me it seems that it is such a passive component, nothing should go wrong with it unless the mount is of low grade material, or the bolt holding it is of defective material/design.
Any thoughts on all the questions - one by one.

tallman1 · March 2008

Any thoughts on using regular oil vs synthetic oil?

I've never used synthetic oil so I don't have any expertise on the subject. I do know that my 95 Accord (that my son now drives) has survived just fine without it. I think it has around 220k miles now.

accordman7 · March 2008

Hello,

Honda service center advised me (and I agreed) to change rear brake pads during my 20,000 Kms (12,500 Miles) routine service for my Honda Accord 2007 LX. I thought that was too early! I use the brakes firmly but not in an abusive manner. Also I wondered that rear pads were replaced before front pads.

Any expereience in that regard? Any recommendation?

Thanks in advance.

alien2 · March 2008

I had the same experience with my 2004 Accord EX. I don't use the brakes agreesively and was concerned that @ 35K the front brakes looked almost new while the rear brakes were worn out to the point that the car wouldn't pass the state inspection. I asked the dealership to ensure that the parking brake wasn't dragging and wearing out the rear brakes. They checked and said that everything was OK. What I did learn was that Honda's original brakepads are much thicker for the front than for the back. I was told that this was done to attempt to have all the pads changed out at the same interval (logically front pads should wear out faster than rear pads). Ask your dealer and see what he says. /Alien

wildman63 · March 2008

I switched to synthetic (Castrol Syntec Full synthetic) at about 20,000 miles in my 2001 Dakota pickup. Mileage went from about 18 to 19mpg. The truck gets driven very little and is on an annual oil change cycle. I feel comfortable letting it go 5,000 miles and twelve months with synthetic.

I'll change over to synthetic in my '06 Accord EX-L 4 cyl once it gets to 15,000 miles. Many mechanics suggest running conventional oil for 10-15,000 before switching.

We're low mileage drivers and rarely get off the two laner here on the Island. The 2001 Dakota has 41K and the '06 Accord has about 12,000 (22 mos. old).

wren67 · March 2008

Hi all,

I took my 2004 Accord Coup V6 in for regular maintenance on Friday and was told that my "compliance bushings were torn" and had to be replaced. My car only has 35,000 miles. Has anyone heard of this being a problem in this model? They asked if I drove on dirt roads alot, which I sometimes have to do for work. Not sure why this would matter, I'm not racing on them or anything. Also, it cost $500 (parts only $17) is this that labor intensive? Lastly, they also charged me $60 for front end alignment which is what I asked for in the beginning, but shouldn't it have been included in the $500?

Thanks in advance for any info you have!

hongwu · March 2008

Hi All,

I have a quick questions, I want to buy a set of alloy wheels (it is originally from a 05 Accord V6 EX coupe) and put them on my 05 Accord I4 LX sedan to replace the original plastic cover and steel wheels. Is it doable? I called two honda dealership and one of them was firm that it is doable but needs an alignment after the replacement; the other said it might need to check if the calibers needs to be replaced as well.

Does anyone has experience on replace rims for 05 Accord?

Thanks,
Jim

tankbeans · March 2008

I don't know if it's doable or not, but I would wonder if the sizes are the same. I think the wheels on the V6 are slightly larger than those on an I4, but I could be wrong. If I'm understanding correctly having different sized wheels could affect the speedometer and the odometer. I don't know how much, if at all. Maybe I'm just a moron.

If you can do it that would be awesome, the alloys do look pretty sharp, in comparison to the steel with covers.

accordman7 · March 2008

Hello,

What is the average fuel consumption for Honda Accord 2007 (LX 2.4 engine) in miles per galon or liters per kilometers?

Thanks in advance.

tankbeans · March 2008

Generally, I've noticed that if you are fairly conservative and don't accelerate aggressively it can yield a good 26-30mpg. It all depends on your driving style and how well you maintain it. There will be people who will tell you 40mpg, but that's usually on all highway trips that are greater than 100miles at a pop under constant speeds.

Back to the point you should be able to get around 26-30mpg once spring hits, when the winter-blend gasoline is phased back out.

thegraduate · March 2008

I support his post, overall.

I'm one of the 40 MPG people, but I don't get that often. On a typical trip running 75- 80 MPH with little stop and go I'll average well over 35 MPG, usually balancing around 37 MPG on average. Occasionally I top 40 MPG, but that's usually when I stay closer to 70 MPH.

By the way, I have a 2006 EX 4-cyl Auto, same powertrain as the LX from 2007.

according2u06 · March 2008

Hey,
I have the same car here(but 1 yr older).

You can always check out the MPG forum for more info...

The official EPA number I believe is 24/34 (city/highway).

tallman1 · March 2008

What is the average fuel consumption for Honda Accord 2007 (LX 2.4 engine)

That varies so much for everyone. Driving styles, outside temps, city/highway combinations, etc. are all factors.

I have over 42K miles on my 06 EX-L I4 manual and I've only had 7 tanks of gas under 30 mpg and two of those were under 29 (28.0 has been the lowest). And all of those were in the winter with a lot of short trips.

I'm not sure why you are asking but everyone is different. Visit the MPG thread and you will see.

tankbeans · March 2008

To add to this poster's comments it can depend on where you live. For instance I live in Minnesota and have an 03 Accord LX I4 and I haven't gotten above 24 since winter started, but last spring when I got my car I was consistently above 27. Some states use winter-blends while others don't. Depending on where you live you might be required to use defrost a lot more than others, as you may know defrost also turns on the air. There is a way to bypass this function, I could never do it, but you may be able to.

Anyway there isn't enough information about your driving style or where you live to make an informed guess. Good luck.

You could also try www.fueleconomy.gov and look up the mpg on the model you are researching. Newer cars tend to do better than older ones of the same model.

wajeeh_r · March 2008

Hello,

I have accord 2003 sedan. on the driving seat belt, some times when i release the belt it rolls back to its position but sometimes Supplemental Restraint System light comes up, when I turn off the car and later some time I start it is normal that Supplemental Restraint System comes when car starts then goes normally.

I observed that it is related to my driving seat belt not any other cause of air bag. What can be done to fix this problem? the belt is okay it rolls back to its position i am confused why it comes once in 5/6 days.

Regards,
Wajeeh :confuse:

user5 · March 2008

I had to get the Honda Accord engine mounts replaced.

To me it seems that it is such a passive component, nothing should go wrong with it unless the mount is of low grade material, or the bolt holding it is of defective material/design.

Did anybody have such a problem? Is there a way to detect signs of cracked/broken mounts while starting or driving?
Thanks.

elroy5 · March 2008

The engine mounts are a lot more prone to damage now, than in the past. They are vacume controlled by the engine computer. Full throttle starts, and hard downshifts at low speeds, are a main cause of engine mount stress. Don't know if that applies in your case.

christie24 · March 2008

I was hoping to get some advice. The other day my 2007 Honda accord got stuck in snow, I tried a few things but finally rocking it for about a minute got it out. I've never been stuck in snow before, so I'm kind of panicky about this, and I don't remember if I used the brakes or not. Did putting it from D to R for less than a minute ruin the transmission? I don't really know much about cars.

grampy1 · March 2008

Your car has VSC,Vehicle stability control. Its recommended to shut off the VSA switch on the dash. In your case,the VSA is hindering you getting out of snow. Remember to turn VSA switch back on.

thegraduate · March 2008

We don't know that it has VSA, as she didn't specify if her Accord was a V6 model (only V6 Accords came with VSA in 2007).

tallman1 · March 2008

Did putting it from D to R for less than a minute ruin the transmission?

Don't worry, you didn't ruin your transmission.

The other two posts are about a feature that your car would have if it has a V6 engine. If you have the smaller, 4 cylinder engine, you don't have it and you did the right thing to get yourself out of trouble.

tankbeans · March 2008

Rocking back and forth from D to R is the recommended procedure for getting yourself out of snow. It's funny you mention it because yesterday I spun out into a ditch on an on-ramp to the freeway. Unfortunately all of my tire patches were frozen because they wheels spun a little too much. I had to get a tow truck to pull me out. You needn't worry about ruining the transmission doing this unless you were revving the engine to the red-line, which I don't think anybody would do.

daveonli · March 2008

Anyone have any info on this car regarding the transmission.I have heard that 3rd gear can be a problem as far as popping out of gear or having trouble getting into gear.also if you do have this problem has it gotten worse? Thanks for any info

blufz1 · March 2008

Elroy,could you please tell me the torque spec for the V6 auto trans drain bolt? The dealer wants $65 to drain and fill 1x,so I think I will try it myself. When you do your drain and fill, do you do it 3 x or just 1 time? Do you use a new bolt washer each time? Thanks,man.

qbrozen · March 2008

I have a problem with mine. It doesn't pop out of gear, but I often have trouble getting it in 3rd. It has not gotten worse, it just exists.

elroy5 · March 2008

This is from the 03-05 Accord service manual, but it should be the same.
1. Bring the transmission up to normal operating temperature (radiator fan comes on).
2.Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off.
3.Remove the drain plug, and drain the fluid. You will probably have to jack the car up, to get the plug out, then lower it so the fluid will all drain out.

The torque spec is 36 lbs-ft.

How many drain and fills would depend on how dirty the fluid looks, and how much crap is stuck to the drain plug magnet. If the fluid is not dark, doesn't smell burnt, and there is very little stuck to the magnet, one change should be enough. If a second change is needed, a short drive (going through all the gears including reverse a couple times) and repeat. The washer should last through a couple of changes (at least). Really it depends on how deep the grooves are in the washer. The hardest part for me was finding a funnel that would work for refilling (long and slender). Have fun

blufz1 · March 2008

Thanks as always. 88 looks a lot happier this year.

elroy5 · March 2008

Thanks as always. 88 looks a lot happier this year.
I think it's going to be a great year!

bvdj84 · March 2008

What does check Fuel Cap mean? I have had this car for more than 2 yrs, and never had this. It is an 06 Accord. Dealer told me, to click the cap, which I do, and to make sure the string attached to the cap is not in the hole. It is did this, when I was on E, and even when I filled up. It still says that, Although dealer said it could take a couple days to go away, because it has to have a vacuum suction again. This has never ever happened.

Has anyone else had the problem?

thegraduate · March 2008

This typically happens when you don't click the gas cap properly, pretty much what your dealer said. It can take several days depending on how much driving you do.

Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair

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