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Comments
There is no mention of replacing Transmission Fluid TILL 120,000 MILES OR 8 YEARS!....
Isn't that interesting?
Also, I wonder, since my wife drives no more than 5k a year, we now have about 15k and the car is almost 3 years old....
Not using our dealer's service but our Shell station's mechanic, what kind of maintenance should I now perform?
The book says to REPLACE THE BRAKE FLUID at 3 years, independent of mileage.
WHAT ELSE?
Thanks!
PS: Have you had the brake pads checked? The rear pads will probably wear early. I changed the rear pads at 52k miles, and I'm easy on brakes.
The engine would last for the life of the car.
My 89 Accord had 213K miles when I gave it away two years
ago. Last week, I asked if the car is still running.
And it is (with original engine & tranny).
Doing a same oil change interval & tranny fluid drain/fill inteval
(30K, 45K, 60K, then every 2yrs thereafter) for my 03EXV6.
Sorry I ramble. Get a second opinion.
drain&fill, and front end alignment.
The prices for new 4 Michs & brakes job are about right. But
at 35K miles, it's too early for these two repairs unless you are
an aggressive driver.
You can do a penny test on four tires. For the brake pads,
you can look through the wheel spokes to see if the pads
wear out to the indicator yet.
I'd visit Serra Honda (in their brand new location near Limbaugh Toyota - Exit 120 off of I-59) or ride out to Roebuck to Brannon Honda (Exit 134, I believe). There's no need to do anything in particular before your warranty expires unless it is actual WARRANTY WORK.
Get a second opinion, either at an independent mechanic, or another aforementioned dealer, if that makes you more comfortable. I have 30k on my car and spent $112 on the 30k mile service (air filter, cabin filter, oil-change, rotation, full-check of systems, others which I can't remember right now!) all at Serra Honda.
I wonder how much they charge for brake pads that are "guaranteed for life."
I'd steer clear of that dealer and follow thegrad's advice.
Oops, sorry on the caps lock...
Find the best regarded local tire/brake place, and take it there for a free estimate. You might also want to switch to a diferent brand tire (the Michelins are OK, but very expensive for what you get. better choices are available). They can also look at your brakes
And the only thing lifetime on a brake job is if they guarantee the pads. The labor, rotor work, etc. will still cost you, and if they are using the basic pads, they only go for about $20.
Oh, if you do need brakes, see about upgrading to premium pads of some kind. The OEMs stink.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Can you describe the indicator check through the spokes for the brake pads? I didn't know that.
Thanks
Can you describe the indicator check through the spokes for the brake pads? I didn't know that.
Thanks
.........that makes two of us. Chucko, you've got the floor.
best, ez..
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/629073629.html
Regards
Corkscrew
For the front pads, you might need to steer the wheels at the angle to look at.
If the pads are about 1/8 of an inch thickness (before hitting the indicator), you can
feel a weak braking & a slight vibration at the front brakes @ 70 mph.
Then time to replace the pads.
P.S. You can only look at the outer pads, not the inner pads. I assume they wear evenly
or a bit more.
Corkscrew
Right, the inner pads will usually wear faster than the outside pads. Just looking at the outside pad through the wheel may not give you a good indication. I don't necessarily trust the wear indicators either. Depending on how well the callipers are working (centering on the rotor when you apply the brakes) pads can wear more on one end than the other. I prefer to take the wheels off, remove one calliper bolt, flip the calliper up, and check each pad. The dealership will always turn the rotors, even if there were no issues (vibration etc.). I find this unnecessary, and it only makes the rotors thinner/weaker each time they turn them. The amazing part is, they charge you to make your rotors weaker. :surprise: If your brakes were working fine, just change the pads and that's it.
They told me my brakes were seriously worn and the front had a "hot spot". They told me the brakes were almost metal to metal. I said, the car is only two years old, is this normal?" Of course, the answer was yes.
The car has 35350 miles. Should I need new brake pads, rotors turned, and four new tires at this point? What are your experiences with your Accords at this mileage?
Do you know how to check the "warning bars" as I've heard them called? Run your finger through the tread groove and when you reach a bump, compare the height of that bump to the rest of the tire tread. If you have tread sticking up higher than the bump, your tires have more life left. Check all four tires, in case they didn't all wear evenly.
By the way, the other guys were right about trying different tires. The original equipment tires cost about $800, when a $500 set will do easily as well, if not better, when it comes to grip and comfort. My personal preference is for Bridgestone Potenza G009 High-Performance All-Seasons. I have them on my 1996 Accord LX and like them a lot. They aren't the quietest in the world, but their wet traction is excellent, important since that car doesn't have ABS.
If I were you, I'd go to a local (Tuscaloosa) shop for tires and brakes; save the 100 miles of fuel (round trip) for another time.
Keep us posted!
TheGrad
2006 Accord EX 4-cyl, 31,500 mi
1996 Accord LX 4-cyl, 180,000 mi
I don't think lug nuts should be rusting on 6 mos. car.
Same thing is happening with my I4 2007 EX Accord. Were you able to find out the problem? I hear an unusual noise sometimes when I try to start up, like a fuel pump activation sound. Anyway, on the second attempt, it has always started up. :mad:
A couple of mine started showing orange last summer. But it's a 5 yrs old car.
I own a 2005 V6 Accord Coupe with 45,000 miles. It has been an incredible car and I have had no problems with it, until the other day. I tried to start it and all the engine would do was turn over, but would not start. I have had this problem with an Acura TL, and it was the computer key. I just waited and re-inserted the key and the car started. The Accord wouldn't start after doing this. I had the car towed to the local Honda dealer and after I got it there, it started up without a problem!
Yesterday, I noticed a man with a new Honda CRV and his car was doing the exact same thing! My car hasn't done this since that one time. The Honda people didn't seem to know what was causing this problem either.
Has anyone here had this problem with any of their Hondas or Acuras?
Thanks
I experimented one night by cleaning both sides of the windows, leaving the car in the garage all night, the next morning putting down the window and there were streaks on both sides.
I took it to a dealer in metro Atlanta and they said it was build up on the track and cleaned it, but it happened again a week later. The tech said he checked his own Accord and noticed it did the same thing.
I was wondering if anyone else had this issue and can it be fixed?
Thanks.
I don't understand this. The tracks only contact the edges of the window. So cleaning the tracks, while a good idea, will not solve the streaking problem. The seals at the top of the door are what can leave streaks on the glass. You would have to catch the rubber seals with a butter knife or something, and clean the under side and the top of the seals (inside and outside), and that should solve the problem. If the seals are clean, top and bottom, it should not streak the windows. I have found that "Invisible Glass" spray foam works great, because it doesn't drip down the window and onto the seals as much as Windex and some other liquid cleaners.
Yep, I do. I just had never really thought anything of it. Now that I notice it I'll have to try and fix it!
TheGrad
2006 Accord EX I4
I am going to take elroy's suggestion and clean those areas this weekend.
Thanks,
The transmission failures seem very common. My radio also went dark but was replaced as 'goodwill'. Its another common problem. Be safe and I recommend not driving until transmission is fixed.
Good luck.
I don't think it's the brake pads...I've had no trouble stopping the car. Nor have I noticed a problem with the car's handling. I don't think it's the transmission either...I don't feel any problems like a missed gear or anything. It's just annoying because it sounds like the car is an old beater when in fact it's only going on 3 years old come this June.
Any thoughts as to what this might be? Has anyone else experienced this? :confuse:
pay for the warranty cost.
You never know when & what parts are going to fail.
You never know when & what parts are going to fail.
Didn't he just give an example of how the extended warranty is not necessary? :confuse:
though the mileage exceeded 36K.
Did you see how much hassles he went through to have it
repaired free of charge?
I think Consumer Reports said it best. "The only reason you should feel the need to buy an extended warranty, is if you know the car you're buying is a :lemon:" Why would you do that?
We have only 15k on our '05 V6 Accord, but based on what I've read here, and checking the tranny fluid (it looks a bit brownish, though smells OK), my mechanic is planning a transmission fluid flush (using that slow-working machine that gradually replaces the old fluid with the fresh one).
Based on what he's telling me, I wanted to double check that I don't have to use only Honda's own brand, but can use a quality ATF -- plus an additive that would make it on par with Honda's specifications.... I did some search on other forums and I found 2 names of additives like LubeGard or SmartBlend, 2 names that may be OLD, so maybe newer, more update additives are now available.....
What you guys think?
Finally, after many delays I went to the dealer with this complaint about a "chirping" sound that was coming from the left side (Serpentine belt side) of the engine when in idle....
They kept the car for inspections, and after an hour called me and told me that since they need to keep the car, and don't have a loaner, I need to rent a car (under warranty)....
I asked why can't I come back in a couple days when they do have a loaner. The answer was "no, we don't want you to drive this car".... Turns out the Timing Belt tensioner was loose and was rubbing against the belt itself.... This has been going on for OVER A YEAR now.... It could have caused the belt to SNAP and RUIN THE ENGINE.....
So, any chirping sound, coming and going in a slow interval, like a bird was chirping... prrrr...prrrr...prrrr... ---- Don't wait, bring it to the dealer.....