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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Ozone and pollutants in the air cause the cracking. You must live in a large city.

    In South Dakota tires don't crack. Copper does not turn green either.
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 91
    I live in middle Georgia. The original tires -michelin mxv4 green started to crack within about 8 mo. after I bought the car new. All the michelin tires I've owned in the last 20 or so years have had this problem. I've only lived in middle Georgia.
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    Michelin are the most over priced tires on the market IMHO. In addition, there have been many that are questioning the current quality of tires (based on many forums I follow) that have stated the EXACT SAME issue you have voiced concern about.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    edited September 2013
    The coasts are both = to large cities as far as pollutants go. The population of ND, SD, WY and MT combined is under 3 million - about half that of the Atlanta metro area.

    I can often drive an hour without seeing another car - not much pollution here.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 25,408
    >Michelin are the most over priced tires

    I've found Michelins to be the value tire for drivers. I have Harmony tires on my leSabre with 95000 mi on them and 5/32 in. left on the treads. The started at 11/32 depth, I believe. Six years old.

    I have found Michelins to be the tire when you want one that will roll round and STAY round as it wears.

    They do show some surface cracking as they age. And on an older set of Harmony tires (9 years?) I even have some cracking in the tread grooves. But then I'm wearing them out because the car is going to the junkyard when I trade it or replace it.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • I use the Michelin Primacy MXV4 "V" speed rated tires. I have received 90-100,000 miles wear on these tires, w/ 3/32nds to 4/32nds tread wear remaining. I rotate my tires every 5,000 miles, when I change my oil. Matter of fact, these last 2 tires, had to be changed w/95k miles; also, because of the begining of stress fractures, between the treads. I was fine with this since my tires are mileage rated for 60, 000 miles. Hope this helps!
  • Hope this helps, even if it comes later. I had to finally replace the stamped metal framework, which holds the bulbs. This took care of all the issues. I did try all the suggestions, in this forum--and that merely eliminated what was still working. This part was about $25 to $30.
  • dolfan1dolfan1 Posts: 218
    I've noticed a few posts where people are changing their oil every XXX miles, apparently ignoring the Maintenance Minder. I've been going by the MM ever since purchasing my 07 SE (new). Is there a problem with that? Is there a reason some people don't use it?
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    Use the minder. I have for 167k miles.
  • I own a 2003 Accord EX-L I4, Manual, with 321000kms on it. Over the past year I've changed/replaced the front drive shaft, both front ball joints and right front CB joint as well. Also got a new battery, new serp belt, all four brake pads and rotors. I change the oil every 4000km with Castrol High Mileage oil. Also got a new clutch in Spring 2010.

    I find that sometimes when I accelerate the car doesnt give me enough power and the pick up feels really slow, almost laggy?

    And whenever im leaving my underground garage and i pull my steering completely left cause of the sharp corners in the parking lot, i can hear something grinding against the disc or atleast i believe its the disc.

    The car runs solid in my opinion, gives me about 510km on a full tank for city and some highway driving.

    The check engine light does come on from time to time, usually on the highway when the car seems like its struggling for power.

    I dont know too much about cars, seeing as im 19 years old, hopefully you guys can offer me some advice on what i can do. My dad passed the car down to me, he says its probably been 3 years since the last tune up so im figuring it might need one.

    Thanks in advance
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    The car uses iridium plugs from the factors that last over 100k miles. If he replaced with copper plugs they will need changing much more often and that could be a problem. Also get a free engine scan from an auto parts store. They will tell you what your code is. It may be that you need a new oxygen sensor. My 2007 needed one at about 120k miles.
  • tldtld Posts: 37
    I believe my 05 4 cyl (96k) is developing a transmission whine that is audible in the upper gears from say 50 up. If there is steady throttle the slight noise is heard, let off it goes away. Anyone had any successful diagnosis and repair on this and what it costs?
  • ezshift5ezshift5 West coastPosts: 858
    I can go with the diagnosis: The slight whine is there in 6th gear. It does seem to abate with throttle lift. Actually, it seems to abate with time. Could this be high frequency hearing loss?

    all the best, ez
  • So about a week ago, I noticed a sound (kinda sounds like a lose screw or something vibrating) when I got on the highway. It started when I reached 90kmh and stopped by the time I hit 100kmh. It seems like its coming from driver side of the car either at the left front wheel or somewhere in the engine/suspension. Its a 2003 accord sedan exl manual tranmission with 325300km on it and I just had a tune up done on it about two or three weeks ago. Any idea of what it could be?

    I'd appreciate the help!
  • wise1wise1 Posts: 91
    edited November 2013
    I'm having an intermittent problem of a electrical sound when I crank the car, anyone one else have that problem??? The car is under warranty til end of Jan. Should
    I take it to the dealer and at least get it on record or will they deny my complaint if they can't reproduce my complaint??? :confuse: Also does anyone know what brake fluid came in 07 accords, DOT 3 or DOT4?? I need to add some but don't want to mix 3 with 4.
  • Of course you should and demand it be fixed.
  • Hello 7th gen owners:

    I own a 2003 Accord sedan with 135K miles. I drive with the stereo on all the time, but not at a very loud volume or with high bass.

    After adjusting the fader control on my stereo to the rear speakers, I noticed that both of the rear speakers are not producing any sound whatsoever.

    Is it possible for both rear speakers to blow out at the same time? I'm searching for a pair of replacement rear speakers on Crutchfield, but could it be a connection at the front that could be at fault?

    Thank you for your input,

  • With regards to both speakers; yeah, strange both go "out" close to the same time! Dbl check your adjustments on the radio 1st, because one can use front or rear speakers only. Remember also, the speakers in general are ten to eleven years old! Electronic parts can go-out at any time. Hope this helps...

  • Thank you for your input. I found that both rear speakers had indeed gone out. The paper cone crumbled away like potato chips. Bought a pair of Pioneer rear speakers from Best Buy and my stereo is producing sound from all four speakers.

    @fixitdaddy1 said:
    With regards to both speakers; yeah, strange both go "out" close to the same time! Dbl check your adjustments on the radio 1st, because one can use front or rear speakers only. Remember also, the speakers in general are ten to eleven years old! Electronic parts can go-out at any time. Hope this helps...

  • RagtopcarRagtopcar Posts: 11

    Hope some might give some insight of what I ight check next.

    I have a 04 Accord sedan, while driving today, noticed that my left turn signal was not working. When i signal to turn left, nothing happens. When I signal to turn right, the turn signal works.
    I then turned on my hazard lights and on the dash board, only the right arrow blinks.

    So the first thing I thought was broken turn signal blub. I replace the rear left turn signal blub and no change...still does not work. I then thought maybe it was the front turn signal blub was burnt out but when I turn on the parking lights, the left front parking light come on. I assume the front parking lights and the left turn signal uses the same blub (at least it looks that way).

    Have not idea what I might check next... anybody have any suggustions ?

  • cherri4cherri4 Posts: 7

    Thanks for the infromation.

  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 257
    edited May 2014

    It's been a while since I posted in here. Seems the Edmunds forums have changed quite a bit so I can't figure out where my last post was. I had liked to put regular updates in on how the maintenance of my '07 Accord i4 Coupe EX-L w/ Navigation was going. I'm a little over 90k miles now, and have owned the car for about 6 and a half years. I had bought it new in September 2007.

    Going through the Edmunds Car Maintenance guide ( ), it says I should be preparing to do this at 90k:

    Replace Air filter
    Replace Cabin air filter

    Change Engine oil & Oil Filter

    Rotate/adjust air pressure Wheels & tires

    Inspect Brake lines, hoses & connections
    Inspect Brakes
    Inspect Drive belt(s)
    Inspect boots & seals Drive shaft
    Inspect Exhaust system
    Inspect Fluid levels
    Inspect Fuel lines, hoses & connections
    Inspect/adjust Parking brake
    Inspect Suspension
    Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots

    Regarding the oil: I use Mobil 1 Synthetic alongside an OEM Honda Oil Filter. Though the maintenance minder goes off earlier, I usually push my oil to around 10k miles.

    What I'm kind of worried about is the 60k maintenance. While I did do the transmission fluid change, I don't remember if I did all these things (I've left out the duplicate items I already mentioned in my 90k list):

    Replace Spark plugs
    Inspect Valve clearance
    Inspect Steering gear rack, linkage & boots

    I think that the Spark plugs being done at 60k might be wrong. Isn't it around 120k? And the valve clearance you do during the spark plug replacement right?

    I have a spreadsheet where I try to keep track of my maintenance and don't have those items mentioned on there.

    I'm going to be heading to my usual Honda dealer soon to pick up my RDX (I had them carry out the car's first oil change instead of acura because it's cheaper). Will see if I can get old paperwork printed for my '07 Accord so that if I Got it done there, I'll have that record.

    I'll also be taking a printout of the accessories cost for the Handa store ( )

    Two more things:

    1) Also in that 60k list according to Edmunds is the Flush/replace Brake fluid, but I Think that has to do with years, not mileage. So every 3 years that should get done. I did mine last August 2012 when I changed my rear brake pads and had my rear rotors resurfaced (vehicle was at 70k-ish miles).

    2) I need to get my wipers replaced - any suggestions for good ones? otherwise I'll just pick up what honda dealer parts store has

  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469

    I also have an '07. I replaced my plugs at 120k and they still looked almost new.
    I have 175 k right now on the original brake fluid. It still looks nice and clear and the pedal is firm. Tranny fluid is also original (manual) and shifting is effortless and smooth. Also still have the original coolant. Coolant still looks great - no signs of sediment or corrosion in the radiator.

    I tend to shy away from replacing fluids just for the sake of it. Maybe I just have bad luck, but it always seems like I have a problem shortly after I get something done like changing the brake fluid. Technician does not get all the air out, or doesn't tighten a bleeder valve properly or something.

    Do fluids eventually go bad - yes. I bought a Miata last fall that was 19 years old and had the original coolant (and brake fluid, and clutch fluid). The coolant did look dark greenish black, but there were no leaks (it survived -30 in South Dakota) and the radiator had no signs of corrosion. There was just a little sediment, so I flushed 3 or 4 times and put in fresh coolant - runs great. I will probably replace the clutch fluid and brake fluid sometime this summer, but both systems are working well and the fluid looks nearly new.

    I did have a brake line go bad on my '90 Integra, and I did change the brake fluid on that car. I don't think it was related to the fluid anyway, the rubber line had just dry rotted at a bend after 24 years. New line cost $16 including shipping and I installed it in a few hours.

  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 257
    Wow, seems this sub-forum is a little dead now. Anyways, I'll put a quick update with my Black 2007 Accord EX-L w/ Navi Auto Coupe. I purchased this new in September of '07. Now almost 8 years later, I'm at 99k+ miles getting ready for the big 100k milestone.

    Last time I posted in May of 2014, I was at a little over 90k miles. Car's not getting as much action these days since I'm able to take public transportation to work more now.

    I'm still wondering about the big, big items from my last post. I did the cabin air filter and air filter back in February when I was at 95k miles. I shouldn't have to worry about these items again until around 125k miles.

    I think dudleyr's post above convinced me to just get the spark plugs done at 120k.

    Dudleyr - I'm a little of the opposite in that I do like to follow recommendations and change things when they should be changed according to them. But I'm a little like you in that I do like to prolong things to what the max they should be is. So I don't follow the maintenance minder because I use Mobile 1 fully synthetic oil. I just do the oil changes around every 10k miles - or just by adding 3k-ish to when the minder goes off.

    But I don't pay attention to anything else. My old '04 manual had things broken down by date. That's how I like it. It's just easier that way.

    I dropped my car off at sears last night to get a tire rotation, balance, and alignment done. I have "lifetime" rotation and balance on those from when I replaced all 4 tires in February 2014 (iirc) to the Continental tires from the OEM Turanza tires. And the alignment I have free for 3 years. They gave me a note saying the manufacturer doesn't specify a rear camber adjustment whatever that means. So the left rear camber is at -1.7 degrees (in the red) while the right rear camber is at -1.4 degrees (in the green).

    They also performed an inspection where they inspected the Brakes (Front Linings, Rear Linings, Rotors, and Hoses), the CV boots, Shocks/Struts, Springs, and Front End/Steering. Everything is green.

    So tonight, when I leave the car with our local Honda dealer to have the oil change carried out (I'll bring a 5qt bottle of my own Mobile 1 Fully synthetic oil, as well as the filter and the washer. Makes the oil change $15), I'll ask them to also check on the:

    Inspect Drive belt(s)
    Inspect boots & seals Drive shaft
    Inspect Exhaust system
    Inspect Fluid levels
    Inspect Fuel lines, hoses & connections
    Inspect/adjust Parking brake
    Inspect Suspension
    Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots
    Inspect Steering gear rack, linkage & boots

    And give me a quote on the brake fluid change since it's been almost 3 years since I last did it.

    I'll save the:

    Replace Spark plugs
    Inspect Valve clearance

    .. for the 120k mark. Also, I guess I should do transmission fluid then too since the last time I did it was at 60k miles.

    I'll get the quote for brake fluid change for labor only. I'll bring my own brake fluid in and save a few bucks. I think I still have some but if I don't, usually the Honda Parts store is good about matching online prices. I'll go in there with a printout from handa-accessories ( ). They have brake fluid at $4.41 a bottle. I think I just need 2-3 for the service.

    (Side note: I'm glad to see stocking genuine Air filter and cabin air filter/pollen filters again because when they stopped and just did aftermarket, the honda parts store wouldn't match the price).

    I think that should take care of everything. Anything I'm missing? Any other thoughts?
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