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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • Does your car do this under any particular condiitions? Windy days, uneven, bumpy roads etc. Or does it do it on smooth roads/ in good weather also? I know I experience my car shaking in very windy condition, and it wobbles, or slightly shakes when going uphill on an uneven road(also around 60-70 mph). I don't notice this when conditions are good though. My car is 06 LX sedan 4cyl. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    My car does exactly the same thing, ie the tachometer does jump to around 1200 and dip under 1000 in rpm after selecting 'R' from another gear.

    What does the tachometer do when you select "D"?
  • Great idea to have it checked by dealer! I doubt it has anything to do with transmission though unless you have a V6. Also, doing a 4-wheel alignment or changing your tires (if they are worn) could help.
  • Actually I think it's in any weather. I live in Houston, so we don't have too many windy days (just unpredictable rain) and I noticed it on smooth roads. I even noticed it on different highways that were flat and didn't have any potholes. From what I've read online, it could be my balance shaft, bent rim (unlikely), or transmission. I'm due for an oil change soon, so I guess I'll have the dealer check it out since I have the extended warranty.
  • hmm I'm not sure. Usually after I select 'D' from 'P' or another gear I just step on the gas and go so have no idea what the rpm is. I'll have to check on this. Is it supposed to exhibit something similar as when changing to 'R'?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Just thinking that the higher rpm when selecting "R" is because the reverse gear is larger than first "D" gear, so it would require more rpm/torque to turn from a stop, or at low speeds.
  • I haven't noticed it except when very cold, but I have to go somewhere shortly. I will pay attention to see if it does anything.
  • just got back from my errands and yes mine does jump a little bit, up around 1300-1500 when shifting p to d, and 1100-1200 when shifting p to r, however it immediately goes down to around 900. i wouldn't worry about it unless it really spikes. in the end you know your car and your judgment is best. good luck.
  • My Honda Accord 2003 has been having this problem for almost 3 years now. Unfortunately it's been getting worse lately. The issue is that sometimes the car just won't start. The battery is new. The starter works. Everything else works. There is no disappearing of the dash lights when the key is being turned to start position. Most of the time the problem would disappear in about 5 to 10 minutes. Very annoying.
  • Ha, thanks. That's what I thought(that my car isn't a lemon :P)! Thanks for confirming though. Now I can relax.

    elroy5, I'll check mine and report back, I think it'll behave much the same way as tankbeans posted above when shifting from P to D though (it's almost the same from P to R).
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    keegank, Next time the engine will not start, try this. Remove the gas cap, then listen at the opening while someone turns the key to on (don't try to start). The fuel pump should run for a couple of seconds. If not, I suspect the fuel pump main relay. There was a recall on the relays on 05 Accords, but I've heard of this problem on 03 Accords as well. If your Accord is a V6 model, it could also be the fuel pressure regulator. Good luck
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    There is a TSB for hard or not starting.
    I left the TSB# in my office.
    Will post it when I get it.
  • pastatie, ar39,

    So sorry for delay in responding to your posts. I appreciate the feedback. Sounds like the VINs on the body panels are indeed OEM, indicating original parts. That's good advice to have it doublechecked anyway.

    In the meantime, I thought to check my hood. It's a replacement. I slid into the back of a Lincoln Town Car at 5 mph. The Lincoln was like hitting a granite boulder -- you couldn't tell it had been hit -- but my hood buckled. There's no VIN sticker on it, but there is a sticker that looks like this: R (Honda logo) DOT
    Maybe R stands for replacement? DOT -- Dept. of Transportation?
    The rest of the car has the normal OEM white VIN stickers everywhere.


    I've never noticed anything unusual about the RPMs when shifting to R or D, but I haven't paid much attention. I'll watch tomorrow and see if anything shows up.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    Hey everyone,

    my wife hit the curb on saturday with her front, right wheel. The Bridgestone factory tire was pretty much dead within seconds and we had to do a tire change right there. The car is only at 4500 miles and was purchased on 9/30/2007. I was wondering a few things... 1) any chance this might be covered by a warranty? we have a firestone store here that I go to regularly for my lifetme alignment on my 2004 accord, maybe I can get the tire checked out there? 2) If no warranty would apply, what are odds this could be repaired? 3) if I must replace the tire, can I get just one tire this early in my tires'/car's life or do I have to do in pairs? Here are the tire specifics:
    Bridgestone Turanza EL41 P205/60R16 91V M+S EL41JZ

    and the car's a 2007 Honda accord ex coupe with Navi
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I think as long as you get the same exact tire, you can go with just one replacement tire.

    I had a similar situation a few years back. I had a blown tire and scratched wheel on my driver side rear. I ended up buying one new factory wheel, and two new tires for the rear. I kept the scratched wheel with the (slightly used) tire from the passenger side rear on it as a (full size) spare. It's nice to know you have a full size spare, to go along with the temporary. It cost me a few $$$, but I ended up better off than I was before.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 239
    Thanks for the response elroy5.

    Anyone have any thoughts on the possibilities of warranty replacement and/or repair of this tire?

    If I have to replace, I'll just replace 1 tire like Elroy5 suggested, and maybe just rotate this new front/right tire and my older front left/tire to the back.. and that would help them get a little more even before I bring them to the front in my next tire rotation (in... 5k miles? how often should I be getting them done on my car?)
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Anyone have any thoughts on the possibilities of warranty replacement and/or repair of this tire?

    I suggest that you read the fine print on the tire warranty that came with your owner's manual. I doubt if it is covered since it can be chalked up to driver error, however, it never hurts to ask.

    I ran over a sharp object that ended up getting to the outside of the tire, just off the tread when my old Accord was almost new. I had to replace the whole thing. Like Elroy, it didn't hurt anything to replace just one tire when it was so new.
  • ar39ar39 Posts: 61
    To my understanding, the tire damage was not a from defective tire. Hence, you will not be covered by the warranty. Only manufacturing defects are covered under warranty. Your case qualifies under wear & tear.

    To even out the wear on all tirew, I suggest you use the new tire on the Right Front side for a few thousand mile before you rotate it. RF tires receive the most abuse with LH drives.
  • Ok, I think you're right on this one. When shifting from P to D, there is similar pattern of rpm changes as when shifting from P to R, except the 'spike' in rpm wasn't as noticeable(~1000 rpm) as when shifting to R. :)
  • according2u06,

    I've never noticed anything unusual about the RPMs when shifting to R or D, but I haven't paid much attention. I'll watch tomorrow and see if anything shows up.

    When you test it, make sure you do it right after you start the car. I don't notice anything unusual either when I test it after I drove the car for a while. It seems to be more obvious when engine is cold/not warmed up. Althouth I've come to realize it doen't have much to do with the weather. :D
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Anyone have any thoughts on the possibilities of warranty replacement and/or repair of this tire?

    I think the only way you could get some reimbursement on the damaged tire is from your car insurance. And even with a low deductable on comprehensive coverage ($100) you would still end up paying half of the cost yourself. The warranty is for "defects", and I don't think hitting a curb makes the tire defective.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    My stock Stereo/CD changer has an error code.

    That's the radio code because the battery was disconnected. You should have a card with the code on it. It looks like a credit card. Punch in the numbers and it will work.

    When do I get my timing chain done?

    You have a timing belt on that model, not a chain. It used to be 90k miles but the 02 may be different. I'll bet Elroy knows. ;)

    Welcome to the forums!
  • I'm new here, so I want to ask a few questions and throw out a few commnts. Thanks for having me.

    I have a 2002 Accord EX 4 banger/ automatic/ 4 door. I have no kids and bought a 4 door because I like the room this car provides. I'm a former Cadillac STS owner, so there are a few of us that have come over to the Honda product that can afford a fast luxury car. A few years back when I bought this Honda used about 18K miles I was shocked how slow it was. I was determined to save some gas and the environment, so I bougt it anyway.

    It didn't take long and I learned that you just have to hit the gas pedal harder and it goes, and goes well. Duh.

    I've got almost 90K on the vehicle now. It has been flawless. Gas and oil. I did kill the batterey a few weeks ago, that's what my first question will be to you all:

    My stock Stereo/CD changer has an error code. I've been rolling around LA/OC with no tunes or traffic reports, not good. A suggestion would be great.

    Also, the reverse gear RPM on my Accord is virtually the same in "D" or "R".

    When do I get my timing chain done?

    When do I get my tranny service done agin (had it once already at 50K).

    Thanks for the read and I hope to contribute going forward.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If you don't have an owner's manual, click on this link, then click on owner's manuals. You don't have to sign up or pay anything. Click on the information for your car, and the owner's manual has all the answers you are looking for. The timing belt could be 90k or 105k miles, not sure. The owner's manual will definitely have it in the maintenance section. Happy Hondaing :D
  • I know this has been stated before in the forum, but I can't remember is the drive belt the same as the timing chain. I peeked at the link elroy5 posted, because I'm too lazy to get up and look at my hard copy. I know I'm a [non-permissible content removed], is drive belt just another phrase for timing chain? It was in the same section.

    I have an 03 Accord LX I4 Coupe. I know I'm the king of off-the-wall questions. I figure it might help others out.
  • ar39ar39 Posts: 61
    I would ask you to go to a mechanic & get the wheel & hub inspected. There's no way one can assess damage without inspecting the parts.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 24,890
    not the same. The drive belt is what in the old days was called the fan belt (now it is a serpentine belt). It is on the front of the engine (outside) and drives the altenator, PS pump, AC compressor, etc.

    The timing belt (or chain) is inside the front cover of the engine, and basically is what connects the crankshat to the valves. "Timing" refers to the timing of when the valves open in relation to the piston travel. That is also where the term setting the timing comes from.

    You have to take the serpentine belit off to get to the timing belt, and for sure i would put a new one on then, unless it was recently done.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • you could always rent a flatbed some ramps and a dolly and tow them to mississippi. ;)
  • I guess my question is do I4s from 2003 have a timing belt or a chain. Again, I know it's been posted, but I got all confused. Right now I'm sitting at just under 47,000 miles so I know I'm good for a while, but when the time comes I don't want to be in for a big shock.

    Thanks to all who respond. Thanks, also, for bearing with me as I get a little mixed up from time to time.
  • I know staring them head on is painful, but being behind them might cancel some of that out. I'm also wanting something that will last a while before replacing since I would imagine replacing them too often would be a pain. Turning the front wheels to get at the headlight bay.
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