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Honda Accord (2003-2007) Maintenance and Repair



  • They were definitely on for more than 5 minutes when I showed the dealer.

    So is there an Auto setting on the light stem (the post that comes off the steering wheel)?

  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    There is no way to set the lights. They just go off automatically.

    Perhaps a host will move these posts to an existing thread that might have someone more mechanical than me. Something is not working with the auto-off feature.

    Was the dealer's service dept. able to tell you anything?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,101
    edited April 2011
    I think that this will get more attention in an existing Accord problems discussion, so I'm going to shift it there.


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  • Thanks, I'm going to have the dealer check this out specifically, next time I go, and I will post the results.

  • shulashula Posts: 1
    I was coming home the othe day on the interstate when I noticed the car slwoing down so I pulled off to the shoulder. The car would not move when I pushed down on the acelerator. I put more transmission fluid in it and could drive it to the mechanics shop, 2 miles away with much trans slipage. He said the transmision is gone and will need a new one. I see this Lucan transmission product that says it will fix a slipping transmission. Has anyone tried this? Does it really work? 2003 Honda Accord, 4 door, LX, automatic 3 speed, 214,000">
  • fw_manfw_man Posts: 18
    Your transmission is dead and needs to be rebuilt. The fact that when you added liquid it actually moved, means you lost all liquid over time. That means you have a leak. This is either due to too much pressure inside, or one of the seals is gone. I have a 2006 Accord, auto 4cyl with 147k on it now. I had to get tranny rebuilt 40k ago. Had one of parts inside wore out and caused vibration which loosened the seal enough to loose all liquid. Cost me slightly over $2k to rebuild it.
    Once you have parts inside that have worn out (for whatever reason), no liquid will restore them to working condition. These parts need replacement.
  • Dear Shula:
    The previous reply could be "right-on", however, you owe it to yourself to try something else--B4 a rebuild job! You're no worse off--right? Besides, it might buy you a little time! However, I would try a Lube Guard transmission additive, B4, Lucas. I've tried both--and I've gotten better results w/ Lube Guard. Also, Lucas additive, will also swell and eventually dissolve your seals, over a sustained period of time. Also, Lube Guard is the only product I've seen in transmission shops. What does that tell you? Good luck!! :)
  • inertia1inertia1 Posts: 8
    During the winter while I was driving the heater was working just fine. However whenever I stopped it would stop heating. Now with the winter it doesn't seem to be doing the opposite (or maybe it just started getting hot outside so I may hpnot have noticed it yet)

    Any idea what might cause that?
  • Honda30Honda30 Posts: 16
    edited April 2011
    This question only applies to the 2003 to 2007 6 cyl. Accord 4 door with automatic transmission.
    At light to moderate acceleration, at what speed (MPH) does the transmission shift into 5th gear?

    Please state the year of your Accord when answering.
  • fw_manfw_man Posts: 18
    2006 4 cyl. Mine between 55-60MPH
  • ag1830ag1830 Posts: 2
    I have the same question, did you get any advice..?
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    I bought my accord new. It has 106,000 miles. For those of you with high mileage accords, when did you change the struts or have you had to change them?
  • fw_manfw_man Posts: 18
    I have a 2006 4 cyl Accord with 149k on it. I did not yet change my struts. Does not feel like I need to. Tires wear fine, no leaks, no excessive shaking/grunts/creaks, etc.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Degradation of struts is usually so gradual that a driver wouldn't notice how much they've degraded unless they replaced them. So yeah, it makes no sense to replace them unless they are misbehaving, even if they might not be performing "as new" anymore. If there are no clunks, no visibile leakage upon inspection, no unusual tire wear and no lose of control on bumpy roads, then you might as well not worry about them.

    Often it's the people who carry passengers or heavy items in the trunk that notice strut degradation first.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    Degradation of struts is usually so gradual that a driver wouldn't notice how much they've degraded unless they replaced them. So yeah, it makes no sense to replace them unless they are misbehaving, even if they might not be performing "as new" anymore. If there are no clunks, no visibile leakage upon inspection, no unusual tire wear and no lose of control on bumpy roads, then you might as well not worry about them.

    I guess the only caveat to that is if you need to make an evasive maneuver on the highway or some such thing like that, the car may not react the way the driver expects. Age & mileage take a toll on the shocks and while driving in a straight line at moderate speeds, it may not be noticeable but when attempting to quickly change direction, issues can arise.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    At least statistically, struts start to weaken at about 80,000 miles. That is, after all, half the life of most cars and it's about 6-8 years of use, so it makes sense.
  • Hello,

    I have a 2007 Honda Accord EX (V6). It has 26,000 miles and runs very well.

    One problem: The climate control system(AC or heat) makes a odd rumbling sound when I'm at a red light or whenever the car isn't moving for at least 5-10 seconds and the car is in drive.

    I also feel a vibration in the brake pedal whenever this rumbling sounds occurs. The vibration and the rumbling disppear when I turn the air off.

    It doesn't occur every time I stop the car. It does happen every time I drive.

    The service techs have not been able to hear the sound or feel the vibration - I'm going to have to drive with them in the future.

    I did have the hepa air filter replaced in November and the rumbling and vibration went away for about two months.

    Does anyone have any idea what may be causing this rumbling and vibration?

    I'd appreciate any help.

    Thank you.
  • temj12temj12 Posts: 450
    Thank you for the replies about the struts. As I said, I have 106000 miles on the car. I have had no trouble with the car and the body is still tight. There are no rattles. I have never replaced the front brakes. I had them checked when I serviced the car at 105000. They keep telling me that there is plenty of wear left. It is absolutely the best car I have ever owned. You just drive it and keep it serviced and that is it. When am I going to start to have trouble and what are the things that I will have to repair?
  • I have a 2003 Accord LX with 202k miles. I passed it on to my daughter at around 180k (and bought a 2011 Accord Coupe). I have not had any mechanical issues with the car...none. For those interested, here is a summary of maintenance done to the "03 - all done by myself:
    Oil changes every 5-7k - Quaker State 5W20 since new.
    Drain and fill transmission (3qts Honda ATF) every 15k.
    Drain and fill radiator coolant every 50k (1.3 gal. Honda Coolant).
    Changed spark plugs at 97k, but they still looked great, and could have waited much longer. Plan to change again at around 220k.
    Air filter changes at 20k.
    Front brake pads at 70k, 100k, and 156k. Also replaced front rotors at 100k.
    Drive belt at 110k.
    Have not changed any suspension parts yet, as I have not experienced any handling, tire wear issues, etc.
    I am no expert in auto maintenance, but maintaining a Honda is very simple. This may not be the schedule, type of oil, etc. that everyone will follow, but it has certainly worked for me. We currently have four Hondas, and I maintain them all similarly.
  • Dear "temj12":
    The reply by "deliciousbass" is right-on w/maintenance. As far as struts, that depends on your vehicle & the strut wear; meaning that some struts wear indefinitely w/o replacement needed. Symptoms of struts needing replacement are slight bouncing or a slight pulling when you change lanes or try an evasive maneuver, and their is to much give on one side or the other. This is what happened on our 2004 Accord EX, 4dr w/ 200,000 miles. I went to the dealer and picked-up 2 complete strut packages for about $300, and installed them myself and got an alignment at the dealer for about $65 or $75. They were running a special. You need 2 jackstands, rubber gloves, 3/8" breaker bar and 12, 14, & 16mm sockets. Looosen the pinching nuts below, lubricate w/silicone spray, hit it w/a rubber mallet, so you don't damage any metal parts, lower arm should drop. Topside, you'll see 3 nuts, looosen & remove, and the strut assy. will drop and you shoud be able to wriggle free the assy and put in the replacement strut assy. Reverse order of removal, and wallah, you completed a strut R&R job, and saved yourself $200-$350 labor, in the process. Remember work safe and clean, plenty of light--and you will like the results, and put another feather in your cap!!! Hope this helps! :)
  • grampy1grampy1 Posts: 140
    Car battery died,so i replaced it with a new one.
    I tried several times to reprogram the thing,and finally took it to the dealer. Of course they had no problem re-setting it.
    When i tried to do it i just had the key in the on position,Dealer Tech started the engine to program it. Does the engine have to be on and running?
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    When you say "reprogram" do you mean entering the radio code? I've done it before but I'm sure I didn't have to start the engine. I have the navi model so the sequence is a bit different... and there is a separate navi code too.
  • grampy1grampy1 Posts: 140
    You are correct about the engine NOT having to be running,and "re-program" being the same as entering the radio code.!

    I got bum info from a friend

    Thanks for your reply
  • Following the maintenance suggestion from my dealer in Rockville, MD I got my 07 Accord (had 29300+ miles) Throttle Body servicing done. After that the car would vibrate, a lot starting at 55K miles/hr . The dealer got it reset (as they claim) so the vibration now happens at 60 miles / Hr but the dealer claims they did the best they can.

    called Honda customer care, they claim the car was bought at the dealership so it is their car and not Honda's. They do not want to warranty the factory trained mechanics work and claim they would not allow other dealership to fix the issue either. My dealership simply does not know how to fix the issue and is now lying about not being able to replicate problem.

    any suggestion, how I deal with the dealership to get the problem they created resolved, or Honda to allow me to get another dealership to fix my car.
  • michael2595michael2595 Posts: 72
    Welcome to the I hate my Honda Service Dept Club.. Personally, I would write a letter to the President of Honda Customer care is worthless. Go right to the top and send a FEDEX letter to the big guy.... I Had many things taken care of with other manufacturer because of that letter.. Also, Demand to speak to the regional service manager.If they say no Go to the owner of the Dealership if you have to and yell bloody murder.. Acting like a crazed customer in public will get you somewhere.. Being too nice will get you nowhere.. Personally, I no longer will set foot in Honda service Dept.. I take my 2007 to an independent who does great work for at least one half the price. Just an FYI, under warranty my brakes and rotors were going on me at less than 15k.. They blamed it on my driving.. I was flabbergasted.. After many yelling matches, etc I couldnt wait any longer becuase it was beginning to be a safety issue, I took my car to an independent and ripped out the whole brake system including calipers, etc..Cost me a small fortune but it was done right.. In the mail a few leeks later I got an we are sorry with a coupon for 100 dollars towards a set of brakes.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    edited May 2011
    Did the dealer say the vibration is being caused by the throttle body? Is it possible that something else is causing the vibration? Stalling, poor performance, hesitation and Idle problems I can see, but vibration at freeway speeds isn't a typical throttle body symptom.

    Was any other work performed (tire rotation maybe?) when you had the throttle body cleaned?

  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I agree with Mr. Bill. A vibration at around 60 mph sounds like a tire balance issue.
  • jonahdogjonahdog Posts: 28
    Curious as to why Honda rec the throttle body service ? Was it acting up or just a "car has reached mileage" thing? I don't remember seeing this rec service in the owners manual :confuse: I also have an 07 accord (@48K) but it runs like new. Personally, I don't subscribe to the "service is required at specified mileage" honda rec maintenance... well, except for the timing belt (if your car has one). I prefer to inspect / listen to my car and "maintain" it as needed. I also happen to belong to the "I hate Honda Service Club" !!!! Definitely follow the earlier advice of finding an independent service you can trust... Ask around. My salesperson even suggested an alternative when I bought my car. He wants my return business and isn't about to burn a future sale!! I also have a 2003 Accord that vibrates @ 55-60 mph every morning. I feel it on the interstate on a moderate grade when the transmission is in OD pulling @ 2000-2200 rpm. After that first hill it seems to disappear. I suspect motor / transmission mounts may be going....but haven't had time to investigate. I did have my tires checked. Found one questionable and had all 4 force balanced which helped but not completely...
  • daveturnerdaveturner Posts: 25
    I agree that the dealership service department can be a rip-off. I serviced my 2004 Honda Accord from 2004 to Sept. 2010 and thinking back, these are the bad experiences I have had:

    1) I remembered the dealer service advisor had me change my brake pads probably once ever 1.5 years--and I drive about 11,000 miles per year; the independent service shop i go to did not recommend changing my brake pads that fast.
    2) In August 2010, out of nowhere, I had my Accord in at the dealership to do a routine 5K mile maintenance, the service advisor said my Accord's front shocks were leaking fluid and would cost $700 to replace--and he stated it must be done soon because it would be a safety issue. I was shocked at this so I took my accord to an independent repair shop (they only service Hondas and Toyotas) and they found nothing wrong with my shocks--I now use them for my Accord's service & repair.
    3) I remembered doing an alignment on my Accord after I ran over a big pothole in 2008, the service department advisor said they could not fix my alignment issue and my Accord would drift to the right and recommended me to get it fixed by a body shop (which the dealership is affiliated with). I refused to do it. Later, in Sept 2010, when I changed all 4 of my tires (using at an independent shop (affiliated with, I had an alignment done and my Accord drives straight!

    overall, I think the dealership service department have to charge much higher than independents because of the licensing fees they have to pay to Honda and admittedly the dealership's waiting lounge is definitely much better than most independent shops--but you have pay through the nose for it by either high service prices or hidden costs--like more frequent unnecessary maintenance procedures (brakes, shocks, etc).
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    So my 2007 Accord EX 5spd manual is about to hit 60k. I am planning to change the trans fluid with the "blessed factory Honda fluid" for the 1st and the coolant with "factory Honda coolant" for the 2nd time. I have already done an oil/filter/air filter change very recently based on the service minder and I did the brake fluid change @ 30k. I am thinking I will need new brakes soon enough so I will just perform the fluid change then.
    I am also looking at new tires, feeling comfortable with the 60k from the 205/60R16 Bridgestone Turanza EL41s. They were reasonably quiet and offered decent all season traction but were disappointing in dry weather handling. I am still planning to do the 17" upgrade to 215 or 225 17s so I can get something of a performance tire. After putting true snow tires on our other car, I am looking forward to having those on this vehicle as well next winter on the original wheels.
    Lastly I have the Acura TL rear sway bar waiting to be installed with updated brackets, bushings and end links. For an hour of work and $40, I will see if that helps with the front end plow the Accord exhibits on corners.
  • michael2595michael2595 Posts: 72
    The most profitable center is not sales or leasing or those overblown 100,000 mile service contracts.. Its the service dept . After my warranty was up I walked out that service dept never to come back after they changed my cabin filter for 90 dollars without my permission.. I told them to take it out... 5 minutes of work and 15 dollars is what it cost me. They can rip other people off.. I am at an independent which I say is at least 50 to 60 percent cheaper and a real nice guy. Priceless
  • michael2595michael2595 Posts: 72
    Has anyone here used thier products and services.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    I have used BG products to correct particular conditions. I have used their transmission fluid in other vehicles and their fuel injector cleaner. I have found both to be fine although if they promise the world, they are unlikely to deliver.
    I haven't used any BG products with my '07 Accord but have had good luck with their products in my '89 Galant.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I am also looking at new tires, feeling comfortable with the 60k from the 205/60R16 Bridgestone Turanza EL41s.

    I'm over 90k on my OEM EL41s. I still have a fair amount of tread left but I've been looking as well. I sure read a lot of good reviews on the Michelin Primacy MXV4s.

    I'm still on my original brakes too. It's getting close to the time I have to replace those as well.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    105k on my EL 41's. Not really fair though because I run snow tires in the winter so really only about 70k. Still not bad. I am looking at the Primacy MXV4 this summer - Michelin has a $70 rebate that comes and goes so I will probably get in on the next one.

    I also have all original brakes - and they have plenty of life left.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    105k on my EL 41's. Not really fair though because I run snow tires in the winter so really only about 70k. Still not bad.

    Yeah I am going to put W409s or similar on the original wheels. Our Subaru on snows was amazing last winter, and those were WinterSport D3s, which aren't a super-hard-core snow tire at all (before that it had used W404s that had worn funny and out of balance). My commute is almost all highway so I expect the tires to last a long time.

    I am looking at the Primacy MXV4 this summer - Michelin has a $70 rebate that comes and goes so I will probably get in on the next one.

    Yeah, I think I am going to get something more aggressive for the summer tires, like a Dunlop DZ101. I really have never been a huge fan of Michelin, although I've never had a problem with them, either.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    I remember reading all the posts about how awful the OEM Michelins were back in 06. Those of us with the Bridgestones were quite happy so I've been leery about Michelins, although the OEMs on my 95 Accord seemed okay.

    When I read the ratings on Tire Rack and elsewhere, the Primacy MXV4 really shines so we'll see.

    Costco has $70 off on Michelin now so I'll probably go with the V rated tires soon. They are $145 each and with install, state fees and taxes, they are $633.48 out the door. Discount Tire is a buck cheaper per tire but install is more. Plus they don't have the $70 discount right now. Tire Rack would be much more with local install.

    The way things are working out, brakes, tires, and 100k tune-up are going to be close together so getting the tires now will help with evening out the expenses.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    What is the 100k tune up?

    The 4 cylinders don't have a timing belt anymore, right? So is it just spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, and oil change? And some inspections? Or do you have to replace the water pump and chain tensioners as well?
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 39,687
    I was just looking at my owners manual yesterday, and am pretty sure the fuel filter is not even mentioned. So the only additional items are the plugs, and a valve adjustment in their someplace. But mostly just the plugs as a replacement item.

    Water pump is just listed as an inspect item (even on the 6 cyl. where you have to replace the timing belt). So most likely you just ignore it unless it fails.

    the chain tensioners are also ignored I think.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD

  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    What is the 100k tune up?

    Good question. I'll have to check when it pops up on the maintenance minder. ;) I'm too lazy to go down and see what the owner's manual says right now. :blush:
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 39,687
    I will save you the trouble. Absolutely nothing. At least it is that way in my Odyssey's manual.

    It just says something about taking it in when the wrench goes on, and does not include the schedule.

    I actually look at the manual for my Accord (using the V6 chart) to figure out what to do when for the van!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD

  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    Well my Accord manual does have a key that tells me what the letters and numbers mean when the wrench pops up... that's all I meant.
  • dolfan1dolfan1 Posts: 218
    The low profile OEM Michelins on my 07 V6 seem kind of rough, I'm trying to figure out what I wan't to do as they now have 40K plus miles. I don't like to play around with fate, they have quite a bit of wear left but sooner or later I'm going to change all four. I'd rather do that before one of them fails. Still trying to figure out which way to go. Would prefer a better (more comfortable) riding tire.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    You could choose a higher profile tire that will help. Lots of people do that. But of course, your "new" size has to work out to be mathematically similar to what you had on there. a 3% variance is permitted, more than that is not recommended.

    Here's a TIRE SIZE CALCULATORto help you.
  • daveturnerdaveturner Posts: 25
    edited May 2011
    Based on the reviews in this forum and from the reviews at, I changed my 2004 Honda Accord EX tires back in early September 2010 with Michelin Primacy MXV4 via and installed them through a recommended local installer.

    My Accord came originally with Michelin tires and they lasted me well into the 70k mile range, but occasionally I noticed that sometimes when I accelerate from a stop in rain, I could lose traction (which can be kind of scary and have to hold tight on the steering wheel).

    The Michelin Primacy MXV4 I currently have performs similarly to the original Michelin's but it doesn't have that traction problem. I live in the Los Angeles area so I have never driven in snow. Also, with my original Michelins it would squeak when I turn right or left too fast, with the new Primacy MXV4's they don't do that.

    Overall, I am quite satisfied with the Primacy MXV4s. My mom's 2007 Camry OEM Bridgestone Turanza tires lasted only about 40k miles before needing to be replaced (because they have a lower thread life rating than the Michelins).
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    My 1993 Accord had MXV4s when I inherited it. Those lasted about 40k and were replaced by Kumho Ecsta ASXs that really seemed to wake up the handling of the car.
    The treadwear rating is kind of a joke. Its an index number based on each tire manufacturer's own testing against a "standard" tire. It basically means treadware ratings are only comparable with in a brand, not really between tires or brands.
    Its also slightly harder to tell when someone feels a tire handles better or corners better than another tire because the tire's performance changes as it wears and its hard to get a baseline.
    The nice thing is, most drivers don't care. They want something that will provide a cushy ride and last a long time, and maybe good fuel economy. Unfortunately, I want a tire that feels responsive, offers good turn in, good lateral grip, and good performance in wet conditions. I am willing to trade off some treadware and even some fuel economy for that. I am not willing to accept error states like tramlining or rubbing.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    So the transmission fluid change went fine once I realized the car had to be level (the front end was jacked up to provide access, but the rear was on the ground) to be able to fill the trans completely. I jacked up the back and things filled fine.
    I also drained the coolant and refilled it with Honda blessed coolant for the 2nd time (1st at 30k, this time at 60k).
    Since the back was in the air anyway, I started to install the Acura TL rear sway bar. The end links are the worst part. I tried the allen key in the back of the bolt while trying to unscrew the nut and it didn't really get me anywhere (I think it was a 5mm allen key that fit). Anyone else have any luck with that? Everything else was easy as pie. Right now, I think i am just going to get the old ones out by any means necessary and get new ones ($60/pr). Any thoughts?
  • mr_gonemr_gone Posts: 50
    Hi all: I'm interested in a used Honda Accord EX sedan, manual transmisssion, 4 cylinder, and am wondering how significant the differences are between the 2005 and 2006 versions. I am ruling out 2003 and 2004 because--from what I can tell--they didn't have side curtain airbags, not even as an option.

    I know that in going from 2005 to 2006, Honda slightly changed the engine and reworked the suspension a bit, plus the nicer tail lights (gauges, too, right?) Looking at Edmunds pricing, there seems to be about an $1,800 gap between the two. I'd be inclined to go with the 2006, but it seems very hard to find this particular combination of EX, manual, 4 cyl, 4 doors. So if I came across a 2005 priced right, it might be tempting. Are there any mechanical issues that I should be aware of that would affect my decision? Most likely I would hold onto the car for several years. No other really distinguishing driving needs.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 823
    edited June 2011
    In 03, the side curtain air bags were standard equipment in the EX-V6 (according to the sales literature I have)

    My 04 EXL I4 has side curtain air bags, I just don't know about the DX/LX models since I don't have the sales literature for 04.

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