You can tell when your clutch is worn, when while driving in high gear and you try to accelerate more, the clutch will slip. Engine rpm's will go up, but the car won't necessarily accelerate. You don't have long to go at all, at that point.
The reason this happens first in high gear, is that in low gear (first)...the gearing gives the engine power over the wheels. In high gear, the gearing gives the wheels power over the engine.
Thanks. So by noticing slippage, do you just mean the lack of acceleration with increased RPMs when in high gear as kiawah was referring to, or is there another way to notice slippage. (As I have never experienced this, I'm not sure what to look for). Thanks.
Great explanation, thanks! Just curious... can difficulty shifting into first gear be a sign of needing a new clutch as well? (happens some of the time, not all) Thanks.
No, that is an indicator that your clutch is out of adjustment.
Your clutch pedal moves the throwout bearing against the fingers on the pressure plate. The pressure plate and engine flywheel form the bread of a sandwich, with the clutch plate as the bologne in the middle. When the fingers of the pressure plate are pushed in, the pressure plate (one piece of bread) moves away from the flywheel slightly (the other piece of bread), which allows the bologne to slip.
So if the clutch doesn't depress the fingers enough, the pressure plate still grabs the bologne and spins the transmission shaft, thereby grinding the gears a little.
Your original problem of a worn clutch, says that the bologne is too thin. The bread can't grip it enough to keep it spinning. The bread would spin when you accelerate the engine, but the bologne being too thin, slips and doesn't spin.
with the clutch plate as the bologne in the middle
which allows the bologne to slip.
the bologne is too thin. The bread can't grip it enough to keep it spinning. The bread would spin when you accelerate the engine, but the bologne being too thin, slips and doesn't spin.
Was wondering if anyone can tell me where I can locate the oil pressure sender ? I have a 1992 Honda Accord Sedan and my oil light keeps comming on after driving about 15 minutes and comming to a stop or idle but my oil is fine. Can someone help me locate this ?
I think the sensor is just above where the filter is. When the oil light was coming on in my 92, it was because the screen on the oil pickup in the oil pan was getting clogged. It would only come on when the engine was at low rpm (idling).
It's a good idea to clean out the pan too, but it's the screen on the oil pump pickup that really needed to be cleaned. Removing the oil pan is no picnic, just so you know.
Of all the suggestions, I still prefer bologna (you did actually have the spelling wrong, kiawah ). I did try the freeway test last night on the way home from work, and my clutch isn't done yet. Any thoughts from the group on my "sub questions"? Price to expect to pay for new clutch, and dealer vs. non-dealer? Thanks!!
I still prefer bologna (you did actually have the spelling wrong),
Just shows you I don't do the shopping, well actually I don't do any shopping :P
Regarding the price for clutch job.....you already got one estimate (1K) for the job, call around to other shops in the area to get competitive quotes. Would vary a little by region. You can also call some parts places to find out what parts would run. Price out a clutch plate, throwout bearing, and pressure plate....that will get you in the ballpark.
Just buy a new sensor and see what happens before you tear into the engine or oil pan. Could very well be clogged oil screen, but a sensor is cheaper and easier. You could also just screw in an analog oil pressure gauge and see what's really going on--this way no guesses.
My feeling was that the sensor would cause the oil light to come on randomly, not just at idle (or low rpm). Which is what pointed me towards the oil pump screen. It happens to a lot of ooooold Accords. Not nearly as bad as Toyota engines, but the sludge does build up over time, and the screen is pretty close to the bottom of the pan, where sludge builds up. Sometimes, a dent in the oil pan can also cause low oil pressure. People love to lower their Accords and oil pans get dented all the time. You can always try the sensor first, but IMO, it would be a waste of time and $$$.
Yes I follow your reasoning, which is good, but what puzzles me is that that much sludge would surely clog the oil screen at any speed. Now it COULD be the pickup tube is partially dislodged or leaking suction.
I wonder how many miles on this engine. If it's a very high miles then it could just be worn bearings.
When the rpms are higher, the pump can actually pull the sludge through the screen. It's at low rpm that the pump can only get a trickle through the screen. What really cinches it for me is when he said the oil light does not come on right away, only after driving for a little while. The screen gets more and more clogged as you drive, and the pump sucks up more sludge.
All this does not mean 100% that the screen is the problem, but it does have all the symptoms.
Well I'll be interested to see what he finds. I would have interpreted the delayed oil light coming on to the fact that the oil thins out as the engine heats up, and thus runs through the worn bearings even faster--causing the drop in oil pressure.
But as you say, simplest things first. Don't you think screwing in an oil gauge is a good idea? If the pressure is good, then the sensor is bad. If the pressure is bad, then either the oil screen is clogged, oil pickup tube dislodged, or bearings are shot.
That would be a good idea, if he could do this himself, or have someone do it cheap. Cleaning the screen would be free, for me. But I guess hooking up a gauge would be easier, just to be sure.
PS: I just hope he comes back with some answers, after all this.
Dropping a pan sounds like a messy hassle kind of thing.
Buy new oil. Buy a filter Buy a new pan gasket Jack up the car Remove the pan clean the screen scrape off the old gasket install the new gasket install the pan install the oil install the filter let the car down pour old oil into containers take container to recyclers.
Phew! (I'm making too big a deal out of this, aren't I? )
1990 Accord EX The brake lights and all other lights work ok. Problem is that when the park or headlights are turned on , the brake lights come on as well. When you hit the brake pedal the lights just dim a little but stay on. When the park or headlights are off , the brake lights work fine.
Check your rear brake light bulbs, for a bad bulb. One of the filaments is most likely broken, and laying against the other filament (within the bulb).
I just added some Sea Foam idle improver to my air intake pipe, and man! My idle has improved greatly! I bet it would improve a lot more if I remove the whole throttle body, but pouring some in is very beneficial!
CAN SOMEONE HELP! i was driving up a hill when all of a sudden my car wouldnt go more than 30 mph. it will start and go into gear but it wont pick up speed. i am taking it to the shop fri but i wanted an idea before i take it
Its not slipping there is white smoke coming out the pipe and the rpms r high. i just replaced the clutch in aug ($700) now this. could it be the converter cause i noticed where the clutch is really heats up when running for a while.
Could it be the catalac converter. a couple of months ago i got the muffler replaced and they told me it was also going bad. also my dad rebuilt the engine last year. would the converter make it lose power like that?
The white smoke is a telltale sign of making steam from water. Betting that he's missing coolant and has been filling it up periodically. Water and metal don't go well together.
Our 1993 was experiencing the same problems at 120,000 miles. After deciding it was an electrical problem, we removed the plastic cover for the gear shift lever and used contact cleaner on several wires and contacts there. That made all the difference and now starts and shifts out of gear correctly. A very easy and quick repair. I wish someone had told us how to do this trick, we figured it out on our own. So hopefully this will someone out there.
I checked my ABS code. The ABS light comes on and goes off normally when the Key is turned on. Then it blinks with one blink and then nothing. After a few seconds a nother 'one blink' and then nothing. After a few seconds a final 'one blink' and then nothing. That is it. What does that mean?
Do you have any pictures for steps on how to replace the fuel filter? I know it is under the vacuum device and you have to unscrew the two bolts, but after that, I am not very keen on what to do.
ok, i drive a 1991 honda accord. it has approxomatly 300k miles on it but this problem didnt seem to start until about this saturday. i noticed that my car started getting excessivley hot only after a little drive. but the thing is.....is that during my drive the temperature reading would go up to the H and then all the sudden gradually decend back to the middle after i switched gears. (car is a stick shift by the way). but then the car would get hot again. at first i thought it was the radiator so i flushed it and added more anti-freeze, but for some reason...the car only got hotter the next time i drove it. and then someone told me that it may be the water pump but they werent sure cause nothing was leaking. then someone told me it was the thermostat...but i really have no idea as to whats going on....can someone help me. oh and can someone also tell me appproxomatly the amount of labor hours i should expect to be charged for just so when i take the car in i know how much im lookin at. that is ...if its the thermostat.
If it is the thermostat, it shouldn't cost too much (easy to change). Do both of the cooling fans come on when the A/C is turned on? If you like, you can click on the link below. It has a lot of information on this subject. Good luck.
I'd swap out the thermostat and if that doesn't work I'd test for a head gasket leak before removing the water pump.
Rapid overheating from a cold start is not a good sign. Could be the exhaust gases boiling water. But a bad thermostat could give this symptom. I don't think a bad water pump (broken impeller?) would allow the temp gauge to recover at all.
Hi I have a 92 LX wagon and I wanted to know if there is any difference between the 2.2L in a 92 compared to a 94 2.2L. I'm asking because my local library has the chilton manual for the 94 but not my 92.
Most things concerning engines and transmissions will be the same. The body style changed, so some parts may be different. I'd say 90% or more will be the same.
92 Accord LX that runs very rough after sitting for 10 to 12 hrs. Sometime its so bad I cannot keep the car running, running on one maybe two cylinders. If I floor it it will run rough for a bit and then kick in and runs great. Can feel cylinders kicking in one at time. Has new plugs, rotor,cap, and valves just adjusted.
The car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear when I start off from a standstill. I can manually select all forward gears, however it appears that I only have two forward gears working (2nd and 3rd). Neutral, Reverse and Park all work fine.
At first the D4 light started blinking. Now it stays on regardless of which gear I select. Jumping the blue (2-wire) connector does not result in the D4 light blinking (indicating any codes).
I have read where these models have a history of burned resistors and leaking capacitors in the Transmission Control Module (TCM). I haven’t pulled the TCM to see yet.
Yes, if the D4 light stays on continuously, it's probably the TCU. You can open it up, and you will probably see dark spots on the circuit board from leaking capacitors. I don't know if they are repairable. If I were you I would try to find a used one in a junkyard (from a wrecked car). A new one, if you could get a new one, would cost a bundle. Good luck.
i just changed my clucth and i put everything back together and now my starter is not starting the car what could it be i changed the sylniod for the starter but its still doing it
I am just guessing here, but could it be the clutch position switch. The starter will not work without the clutch pedal pushed down, so I suspect the switch was knocked out of alignment while working on the clutch. Not sure where the switch is, but I would look under the dash near the clutch pedal arm. Good luck.
I am just guessing here, but could it be the clutch position switch. The starter will not work without the clutch pedal pushed down, so I suspect the switch was knocked out of alignment while working on the clutch.
I'm not a mechanic, but this was my thought as well.
Comments
The reason this happens first in high gear, is that in low gear (first)...the gearing gives the engine power over the wheels. In high gear, the gearing gives the wheels power over the engine.
Drive down the interstate in high gear. Floor the accelerator. If the car begins to pick up speed and the rpm's gradually build you are okay.
If on the other hand if you floor the accelerator, and the engine revs but the car doesn't go faster.....head directly to the shop.
Your clutch pedal moves the throwout bearing against the fingers on the pressure plate. The pressure plate and engine flywheel form the bread of a sandwich, with the clutch plate as the bologne in the middle. When the fingers of the pressure plate are pushed in, the pressure plate (one piece of bread) moves away from the flywheel slightly (the other piece of bread), which allows the bologne to slip.
So if the clutch doesn't depress the fingers enough, the pressure plate still grabs the bologne and spins the transmission shaft, thereby grinding the gears a little.
Your original problem of a worn clutch, says that the bologne is too thin. The bread can't grip it enough to keep it spinning. The bread would spin when you accelerate the engine, but the bologne being too thin, slips and doesn't spin.
which allows the bologne to slip.
the bologne is too thin. The bread can't grip it enough to keep it spinning. The bread would spin when you accelerate the engine, but the bologne being too thin, slips and doesn't spin.
Wouldn't ham have been easier to type?
Guess I could have said a DVD.
Just shows you I don't do the shopping, well actually I don't do any shopping :P
Regarding the price for clutch job.....you already got one estimate (1K) for the job, call around to other shops in the area to get competitive quotes. Would vary a little by region. You can also call some parts places to find out what parts would run. Price out a clutch plate, throwout bearing, and pressure plate....that will get you in the ballpark.
How many miles on this engine?
I wonder how many miles on this engine. If it's a very high miles then it could just be worn bearings.
All this does not mean 100% that the screen is the problem, but it does have all the symptoms.
But as you say, simplest things first. Don't you think screwing in an oil gauge is a good idea? If the pressure is good, then the sensor is bad. If the pressure is bad, then either the oil screen is clogged, oil pickup tube dislodged, or bearings are shot.
PS: I just hope he comes back with some answers, after all this.
Dropping a pan sounds like a messy hassle kind of thing.
Buy new oil.
Buy a filter
Buy a new pan gasket
Jack up the car
Remove the pan
clean the screen
scrape off the old gasket
install the new gasket
install the pan
install the oil
install the filter
let the car down
pour old oil into containers
take container to recyclers.
Phew! (I'm making too big a deal out of this, aren't I?
The brake lights and all other lights work ok. Problem is that when the park or headlights are turned on , the brake lights come on as well. When you hit the brake pedal the lights just dim a little but stay on. When the park or headlights are off , the brake lights work fine.
After deciding it was an electrical problem, we removed the plastic cover for the gear shift lever and used contact cleaner on several wires and contacts there. That made all the difference and now starts and shifts out of gear correctly. A very easy and quick repair. I wish someone had told us how to do this trick, we figured it out on our own. So hopefully this will someone out there.
What does that mean?
http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
Are you just looking at the gauge or is it blowing steam from under the hood?
Is the water low after getting hot?
Rapid overheating from a cold start is not a good sign. Could be the exhaust gases boiling water. But a bad thermostat could give this symptom. I don't think a bad water pump (broken impeller?) would allow the temp gauge to recover at all.
92 Accord LX that runs very rough after sitting for 10 to 12 hrs. Sometime its so bad I cannot keep the car running, running on one maybe two cylinders. If I floor it it will run rough for a bit and then kick in and runs great. Can feel cylinders kicking in one at time. Has new plugs, rotor,cap, and valves just adjusted.
Could this be fule injectors? Or????
Thank you
The car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear when I start off from a standstill. I can manually select all forward gears, however it appears that I only have two forward gears working (2nd and 3rd). Neutral, Reverse and Park all work fine.
At first the D4 light started blinking. Now it stays on regardless of which gear I select. Jumping the blue (2-wire) connector does not result in the D4 light blinking (indicating any codes).
I have read where these models have a history of burned resistors and leaking capacitors in the Transmission Control Module (TCM). I haven’t pulled the TCM to see yet.
Does the symptoms I describe indicate a bad TCM?
I'm not a mechanic, but this was my thought as well.