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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,349
    could very well be the passenger side, as that one takes up the most torque and thus is more prone to wear.

    Other than that, you'd want to check motor mounts. But don't despair if you replaced the wrong side; generally it's a great idea to do both at the same time.

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  • hi, thank you for your replies. I now it is the rubber 'cause i did the following experiment. I flooded the canal taht surrounds the trunk's water got in . Then I paintakingly poured water drops on the glass and the ran down to the rubber joint but never got into the canal. This time water got in.

    Can I do the repair myself? any glue that can hold and seal the opening?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,349
    I would recommend you buy some LATEX black caulk. Latex is great because it cleans up with water and it goes on easily---no mess, no fuss, like that ghastly silicon sealer. You can just squeeze some of the caulk onto your finger and apply it to the area of the windshield you think is leaking, then carefully clean up the excess with a damp rag or Q-Tip. Try to work the latex sealant under the rubber if you can using a little pick or ball point pen or some such to open it up a little. Let it cure before you test it again. If it still leaks, try again.

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  • hey im new to this site. i just bought a 90 honda accord 4dr ex. for 300 bucks on ebay. 158,000 miles. car is mint. no rust!!!! i gave it a super tuneup. best wires,plugs,cap,rotor,o2 sensor,new cold air intake,and header. new battary, and alternator, put a valve cover gasket in. my question is the trans shifts crazy hard without the sport button. i had camaros, and trucks with shift kits and this car feels like it has one. Is this normal?? and i have a slight oil leak. i heard it could be from the head gasket??? if it was that the car would barly run right??? all commits are welcome. thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Accords of that year do shift hard (they don't flare between shifts like other automatics do). Have you checked the transmission fluid? You might want to flush the transmission, and use Honda ATF-Z1. Other brands of fluid make the hard shifting worse.
  • ok it is a little dirty i will get a trans flush this weekend. but what does the sport buttin do?? i tried too use it. it dosent make a difference. or it might but i cant tell. ????
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    It is supposed to be a "Sport mode" to make the tranny shift faster. The sport mode buttons were only used in 90 and 91, and I had the 92, and it was discontinued by then. I would use the Honda brand trans fluid. A flush is considered to be three changes, with a short drive between each. One drain and fill will use 3 quarts, which is only about 65% of the total transmission volume. If you are going to do it yourself (flush), you will need 9 quarts of fluid.
  • ok thanks for the tip.. that was my next questing was how many qurts i will need..
  • A brief story...
    So I am driving to work yesterday morning and I smell burning oil. I look up and there is an F250 superduty in front of me so I don't think much of it. Then I look down and the oil light is blinking. I pull over immediately and stop, shut off the motor and pop the hood. I pull the dipstick, which registered absolutely empty. I look down and the Exxon Valdeez is being re-enacted at my feet. The car is puking its guts out.

    AAA tow to the Honda says counterbalance shaft oil seal went, need to do the timing belt change service (previously done at ~80k) to get to the part...blah blah blah...$700 later I have all new belts and seals and a new water pump. Its at 140k right now, it damn well better get to 200 after that.

    The dealer also said it had a bad control arm and wanted $350 to swap that out. I picked a TRW control arm up from the auto parts place for $90 and put it on this morning. I will be out another $40 for the alignment but 130 is better than 350.

    The only thing left is it needs a muffler and over-axle pipe, which is about $100 but I keep patching it and putting it off.

    It got a new master cylinder a few months back too for about $350. It also just got new tires but that is a wear item and not really fair to charge against the car. Mantenance costs are running about $1000-1200/year since most of it I still take care of myself, but I guess ~$100/mo isn't terrible for maintenance costs.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I learned a lesson on the exhaust pipe and muffler. Go ahead and purchase the OEM muffler and pipe (they come in one piece). It will bolt right up, and you don't have to worry about changing it again for quite a while. Sure, an aftermarket setup may cost half the price, but the sound, combined with the fact that they only last half as long, makes the stock pipe worth the cost. The cheap aftermarket muffler made the whole car vibrate, and I was beginning to think something was wrong with the engine. After installing the OEM muffler, the engine sounded like brand new again. The difference was amazing.
  • Thanks for the tip...I am thinking we are coming from opposite directions though. I think a slightly more agressive exhaust note would be welcome, its kind of fun to hear the growl on exceleration. I typically stick to well known aftermarket brands and I've managed to do okay so far.
    I think that is one of the things I don't like about the newer Accords, it feels like you are driving a Buick.

    I think the one I am currently looking at is the Bossal or the Walker. I think the Bossal one might actually be OEM, I need to see if I can find out who Honda's supplier was back then.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I'm sure there are quality aftermarket exhaust systems out there, but they probably cost just as much as stock. I guess if you want something louder, that would be the way to go. I just wanted to point out that cheaper, is not cheaper, in the long run.
  • I have a honda accord motor parts are 90-93 I have been working on it for a while and bought a lot of parts and it still isnt running.When I turn the key on the check engine light doesnt even come on.Where should I go from here?PLEASE HELP,THANKS dickdasterly
  • Yea you could do the repair yourself, there's a website that will help you it's called and they are both dedicated to honda accords 90-93. The thread will be on DIY or you could just look around. The sell stuff as well... Later..... :shades:
  • Hi there
    Hey man try changing or tapping on the PMG-FI main relay . Its located beside fuse panel under the dash. That relay controls the fuel presure and parts of the ignition. Try that and see if it helps GOOD LUCK!
  • I bought a rebuilt head and installed it but the valves need to be tighted. The old guy at the parts store sold me a feeler gauge and said the trick is to turn the engine by hand and watch the cam shaft. When the round part of the part that looks like and egg is facing the rocker arm, that is the right valve to tighten. Will this work for an F22 head?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    This is only my opinion, but you need to do one of two things. Buy a repair/service manual for your car (Autozone, Advance auto) so you can "adjust" (not tighten) the valves the correct way. Or get someone who knows what they are doing, to adjust your valves. I think you would be better off with the second option.
  • dbailey1dbailey1 Posts: 1
    Would appreciate if anyone out there can 92 Honda Accord is playing silly. Just recently when out driving the green "S" light starts flashing, the speedo stops working and the power starts to decelerate, it doesn't actually stop, and the check engine light comes on.

    The fault doesn't usually happen when starting up but when I have been driving for say 1 to 2 miles.

    The check engine light has been coming on for a month before the other stuff started happening but it would go off when I stopped the car and not make any difference to the running of the car, and might not come on again for the rest of the journey.

  • My son has a 1990 Accord LX with AT. After driving a short distance (a few blocks), the transmission appears to fail (vehicle does not move. Turning vehicle off and restart after a few moments restores operation for a few blocks and then problem reoccurs. I had him drive it to a shop and they determined the AT needs to be rebuilt. I will be able to supply additional info after I get possession of the car tomorrow. Has anyone seen or heard of this problem? Could this be Transmission Computer problem? I have seen a number of posts regarding problems with the computer. Thanks for any assistance anyone can provide.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Here is a link concerning "S" light troubleshooting. It may shed some light on the situation for you. Good luck
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If you have a blinking "S" or "D4" light you may want to read the link too. The computer will flash a code for you if you jump the service check connector. I would have to find the link for that, if you need more information.
  • hughhavhughhav Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Honda Accord LX with 189,000 miles.I was replacing a half to a full quart of oil between regular oil changes. Recently the check engine light appeared and I was down 2 quarts. I replaced it and less than two weeks later I needed to replenish. What could be the possible problem areas to look for?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    stuck pcv valve.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the engine is not smoking (a lot), it has to be going somewhere. Is your coolant getting dark? Check the lower timing cover. If you blew a seal in there it will create problems with the timing belt in the near future.
  • Hi - I just bought a '91 Honda Accord LX with 187,000 miles on it. It seems to be running well for the most part and I'd like to keep it that way! :) It has a little orange 'maintenance required' indicator on the dash... My husband can't see anything obvious wrong with it, (not a mechanic but good at preventive maintenance) and I just want to know what to look for. Also, sometimes while driving the wheel shakes a bit.. almost like one of the tires is going flat or something, but it only does that sometimes. What should I have checked?

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    That little light on the dash is just a maintenance reminder. It will change colors every 6,000 miles (I think). You can reset the light by pushing your key into that little slot next to the light. It does not mean something is wrong with the car. That would be the "Check Engine" light. If that comes on, the computer has detected a problem.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    My 1996 has this minder as well, best I remember it turns yellow (from green) at 6,000 miles, then it turns red at 7,500 miles.

    It is on the speedometer in my car, at the bottom (its not readable here, but you can get an idea of what it looks like... a little square that doesn't actually glow). The key slot you should insert the key into is just to the left of the colored reminder, and to the right of the gear indicator).

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  • 397864397864 Posts: 8
    i have a 1992 honda accord and recently you could be driving and all of a sudden you would loose all engine power, help---help--help.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    Depending on how fast the oil is coming out, the seals around the cam, counterbalance shafts, crank and oil pump can leak. If its the oil pump/counterbalance shafts, it will be more catastrophic in scale.
  • sed1sed1 Posts: 8
    I just had a similar problem, but it was a leak. Turns out it was a worn out o ring on the oil cooler, which is a small unit behind the radiator (I think). My mechanic fixed it for me for under $50 but it was pooling oil under the car.
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