Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

thegraduate

The only thing it will do is reset any radio presets you may have had, and your clock as well. Connect it the same way you disconnected it, and your car should run.

Disconnect the cable terminals from the battery's terminals (negative/black first and then positive/red). You'll just need a wrench to do so. You'll reconnect them in reverse order.

confused5

Thank you!

thegraduate

Let us know how everything goes!

kiawah

You just have to disconnect one of the battery cables, negative is preferred.

You might try reaching up under your dash, and finding the brake light switch which would be part of the braking mechanism. I suspect it's just stuck, and you could maybe pull up on the brake pedal, or pull out on the switch plunger. You might also be able to pull a connector on that switch.

caire

Hi,

Can anyone tell me how to get my '92 Honda Accord glove box open, prefferably without further damage? The key is missing and the latch has broken. Also, there is no power to the passenger windows and the fuse seems fine ... any suggestions what I should check next?

thanks ..

mrbill1957

They key for the glove box is your ignition key.

Mrbill

caire

That's the first thing I tried. It doesn't open it so it looks like the whole mechanism is messed up.

ben1952

The same thing happen to me, You need to replace the main relay, It is found under the dash. (ben1952)

ben1952

when I drive my car it stumbles and jerk when it accelerates, like it is not getting gas. ( ben1952)

kbster

Car is parked on an incline, put oil in this morning and has a little gas and it just won't start. It makes a turning over noise with some clicking, but nothing....any ideas on what to do? Does it need to be filled with gas in order to get it started? PLEASE HELP!

elroy5

If the gas level is really low, adding some may help. If the starter is turning the engine fast enough for it to start, you need to check for spark and fuel. One or the other is probably missing. Pulling a plug, can tell you both.

Fukuyama

that happened to me on a trip to Canada. It was thepiece of rubber that opens/closes the brake light switch when you pull the brake pedal down or release. I replaced it plastic piece with a plastic screw and glued it with gum.

when you push the brake with the car on park you must hear a click sound, If not...the pedal is not reaching the switch....good luck

derrickj

I was driving home when my car just cut out. I have a 1990 Honda Accord and for a little while It was slightly misfiring. Also whenever I would turn the car off I could smell gas. I replaced the rotor button on the distributor and it helped but lately the engine had been running rough. Now I don't seem to have any spark at all to my plugs. Also should I be able to rotate the rotor by hand because right now It is stuck. Clueless and reaally need help. Thanx Derrick

carachase

i have recently acquired a 91 accord 2.2 w/ a 5 speed. my husband thought it had a blown head gasket. he fixed that problem, but now a new problem. when you try to start the car (when cold), it will crank most of the time but run only long enough for engine to get warm, then shut off. if you immediately try to crank it, it will turn over and attempt to crank again, but won't. my husband has checked & replaced most everything i have heard could be wrong with it, such as:
1. fuel pump main relay
2. spark plugs
3. plug wires
4. distributor cap
5. rotary button
6. MAP sensor (which cleared code 5)
7. EGR valve
8. ignitor (inside distributor)
9. fuel pump

probably more than what i can think of right now. i found some information on the trouble codes. code 6 is the ECT sensor. i gotta find out what that is. i have no idea what could be causing the code 15, since we have had the distributor & ignitor checked simultaneously @ AutoZone. nothing was wrong with either. code 43 is for the fuel supply system, but as i mentioned earlier, we have already replaced numerous things regarding the fuel.

:confuse: :mad:

does anyone have ANY more tips on what to try next? we have 5 vehicles in our driveway and NONE are running right now. i have 2 kids and need transportation.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!

thanx,
lesley

toethyl

My 93 Accord has been having some difficulties lately. Newest problem: I have replaced the front head light because it had stopped working; however, the new one didn't work either! I next went to the fuse box and inspected the fuses. When I removed one of the fuses the light magically lit up! However, both low beam headlights were dimmed. Could there be a problem with the relay!? Please help me!!!

corkscrew

Code 6 ECT sensor is the engine coolant temperature sensor. Here is a link to one of those other automakers that explains what it is and does:
http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=28

allisonhanline

Recently my 93 Accord started leaking oil. After taking it to one of the dealerships they said the oil was coming from the housing to the timing belts and that just to take it appart it would be 650 dollars and they are pretty sure that the one of the 3 gaskets were blown and they would replace them all three, but the parts are only 60 bucks. I need to know if there is anything that can be done just to get this car into good enough shape to be driven to car max and sold because the oil leaks out immediately almost. I need help because I can't pay that much money to fix this car that MIGHT be worth twice that amount....Please message me with any suggestions... :confuse:

elroy5

You could probably find another shop that would change the seals for much less, but with blown seals and oil leaking out very quickly, you could burn up the engine on the way. Has the timing belt been changed? And how many miles does the car have on it?

lilengineerboy

The counterbalance shafts in the motor are under whatever pressure the oil pump puts out. When those seals fail, the oil pump pushes the oil right through those seals onto the ground. In my case, catastrophically. $650 sounds a little low to me from a dealer. They should also replace the timing belts, and possibly the water pump, depending on the mileage and how long you intend to keep the vehicle. I would imagine they are planing on replacing the 2 camshaft seals, the front main seal and 1 of the counterbalance shaft seals. The other shaft seal is integrated into the oil pump and is considerably more costly.
An independent shop would be cheaper, and in my case, the Honda dealer took 3 tries to get the seals in right and not leak.

allisonhanline

timing belt was just changed actually prob about 2 months ago and the car has 189900 miles

elroy5

There are seal retainers that were made to keep the seals from popping out. They should have been put in when the timing belt was changed. Either way, the timing belt and all the sprockets have to be removed again to change the seals. It's a lot of work, and $650 is not a bad price (for a dealership). You could probably get a better price at another shop, but you would have to get it towed there (more expense). You are between a rock, and a hard place here. Did the lack of oil (when the seal went out) cause any damage to the engine? Is the car in good enough shape to be worth it? Only you can answer that one. :sick:

es345

Hello,

My '92 Honda Accord appears to be leaking oil from what I believe is the oil pressure sensor (located just above the oil filter). Problem is, I can't tell how it is removed in order to fix or replace. Is it possible to repair myself or is it something only a Honda service centre can handle? Thanks.

es345

Nevermind.. got it figured out.

116549

Hi,
I have been reading a lot of the same posts, my car when stopped at a stop light idles somewhat rough. It has 150000 miles and is an LX. Everything on the car is mechanically sound, and I checked with my Honda dealer about the fuel filter, and he said it was a 1 million mile filter. I just recently put a new muffler on it, but it was still shaking before that. Any ideas? I know a good amount about cars, so anything is good.

lilengineerboy

I checked with my Honda dealer about the fuel filter, and he said it was a 1 million mile filter.

I call BS. Change fuel filter (if you have 150k and you haven't you are just making life hard for your fuel pump), check your plugs and wires. You didn't mention if it was an auto or manual. If you have an auto, there is an "active motor mount" that can fail and cause that vibration.

elroy5

Could also be the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) and throttle body need to be cleaned out with some carburetor cleaner.

116549

yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I do not believe (or know) if it has been replaced; the manual says to replace it every 60000 miles. It is an auto, it had been shifting pretty hard until I put fresh ATF in. The old ATF was only a year old and was already really brown with a good amount of deposits. How do you clean out the throttle body, I was looking into it, but do not know exactly how. Also, the $350 to get a new fuel filter installed seems like a rip. I read it was somewhat easy to install a new one, but you need to be careful. If the automatic transmissoin is the problem, how much would that be to fix?

elroy5

Don't know how good this link is,
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1844067&page=1
but it should give you some idea. I would try cleaning the valves and throttle body first, since it will only cost you the price of some cleaner. If that doesn't work, I would check out the engine mounts and maybe the fuel filter. Good luck

This is where the valves are located on your car. IACV in red circle, FITV in yellow circle.

116549

hey thanks for the help! It could be that, I guess I will check it out first, but it still might be a good idea for a new fuel filter anyway, dont you think? How long did it take you to clean the throttle body? The pictures are really helpful too!

elroy5

It doesn't take long, if you have the tools handy. I would change the filter too, if you have the means. I know sometimes $$$ can be tight, so I like to give people the cheap solutions first. Happy Hondaing

116549

cool. do you have any pictures handy for the fuel filter? they both seem pretty easy. would you be able to just go through the air intake to the throttle body and clean through the hole, or would you take it all apart? it is easy to put back, correct? do you need to unwire anything for safety precautions? thanks again.

elroy5

I would just do the IACV for now. Just do like the link shows. No need to disconnect the battery, just the wire to the valve. Be careful with the gasket, or to be on the safe side buy a new one for the valve.

116549

okay. how would I reset the ECU after I am done?

elroy5

Remove the 7.5 amp fuse in the under hood fuse box labeled radio or battery/backup for 10 seconds. I think it is the only 7.5 amp fuse in the under hood box.

PS: If you don't have the code for the factory radio, I would not remove that fuse. I think you would be fine without having to do that anyway. As long as you do not turn the ignition on while the valve is disconnected, a code will not be stored.

jim2008

have a 1993 Honda Accord LX it also was running rough at low RPM's and just quit one day driving down the street. Checked it out and it had no spark would turn over easy but no spark. The problem was the Ignition Control Module. It cost $70.00 at Advance Auto Parts. It is an easy fix. Disconnect the battery cables. Remove air filter and air filter box so you have room to unscrew the three screws fromt he distributor to remove the distributor cap. One the distributor cap is removed take a flat screw driver and pry off the rotor from the shaft and remove the the cover so you can get access to the inside of the distributor. You will see the Ignition Control Module there are two screws that hold it inside of the distributor the are located on the outside below the ICG Module unscrew the two screws and be carefull not to strip them use a good phillips screw dirver and alot of pressure on the screw as to not strip them. Once those two screws are unscrewed remove the four wires and be carefull not to break the wires other wise you will have to sodder new wires. Once the wires are removed it will slide right out. Take and unscrew the two screws on the back of the ICG and remove the bracket you will need the bracket to install on the new ICG. Use the gel between the two medals so that it will not corrode later. Reinstall all parts in the reverse order that you removed them. This is a known problem and it will no doubt fix your starting problem. Easy fix only nine screws total.

zgembo

I have a Honda Accord SE 1993 with 180,000 miles and no oil leaks. I love this car.

My only problem are the headlight that seem to go out for no particular reason. I can get them to come back up by tapping on what I believe to be a LIGHTING RELAY in a fuse box on a upper left side of the engine.

It does happen more often during rain. So is it wiring, lighting relay or something else I need to check?

Any help is well appreciated

kiawah

Would suspect the moving pieces, before wiring. Relay, or headlight switch.

Since you are able to tap on the relay and fix the problem, that would be a very good indicator of where the problem most likely is. Go get a new relay.

94integra

I just bought this car. It idles very rough and wants to die at every stop. The check engine light is on and when I go to the back by the tail pipe it has so much carbon. When I was at the back putting on the tags, it coated my pants with some serious black soot. Does this sound like a fuel injection problem? I was told that this could make my catalytic convertor meltdown. Is there an easy affordable fix or process of elimination? :sick:

rossaccord

I have the same problem. mEchanic says its time consuming and would cost @ $400.00 to fix it. I am not sure how he is going to fix it. Please share how you figured out solving this problem.

92 Honda Accord LX

Thanks

superjoint

I have a 91 Accord LX where is the relay switch?

elroy5

If the check engine light is on, you need to get the codes from the computer (ECU). It will do a lot to narrow the possibilities. If you read the link below, it may help. Good luck.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ecu.html

elroy5

Here's a link for the Main Relay. Good luck to you too.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

94integra

It stays running at a low idle if I am not driving it. I spoke with a mech who would check codes for $70. Still not sure if I am going to do that though. This car I picked up for $964 total after paying for a lost title. I need to figure out how much it is I want spend, so it won't cut into my profit. Thanks for the Suggestion ELROY5

thegraduate

Have the codes checked at AutoZone for FREE.

elroy5

The problem is a 90 Accord is not OBD II, so it's not as simple as plugging in a scanner. Many Autozone guys will not do what it takes to get the codes from his car. This link describes retrieving codes on these cars.
http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm

lilengineerboy

Murrays/Schucks/Kragen will let you borrow the scanner on your own (you buy it and return it through their tool loan program). I don't know if its required for the 90-93 Accords. I never got a CEL, just the oil light, which saved the motor.

elroy5

4th gen (90-93) are OBD-I and do not have the scanner port. I think 94 was the first year for OBD-II.

cstout73

1993 Honda SE - 10th Anniv.
My ABS light just came on while I was driving. It now comes on every time I drive - about 20 seconds after I start moving. Sounds like a speed sensor. My question is how do I get the code? I know I need to put jumper between to leads on to something underneath or behind the glove box. I looked there and I didn't see anything. Do I need to remove the glove box or any plastic covering?

elroy5

This link http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm
has a picture of where the connector is, and the little kick panel it should be behind. Good luck. The ABS light should blink any codes that are stored.

automoron

I have a 1992 Accord LX with 180K miles. I always have it serviced at the dealer, who last time told me that I would need a new cluth in the very near future - "there's not much there". How will I know when the clutch needs to be replaced. The dealer told me it would be about $1K for the job. Is that a reasonable price? What should I look out for as far as extra parts he will try to sell me that I won't need, etc? Would you recommend going somewhere else to have this done? Obviously you know by now that I don't know the first thing about cars. Any advice would be much appreciated!