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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • This is stuff I found when I had that problem with my accord. Mine turned out to be a problem with the IACV (idle air control valve)

    Good luck, Keith


    It is most likely your Idle Air Control Valve. With the engine idling, remove the cover from this valve and feel for air circulation. When the engine is at correct operating temperature, this valve should close off and you should not feel any air circulating. Valve will run about $210. The idle air control valve is located on the front of the EFI. Two phillips head screws hold the top cover in place.
    fast idle valve... I spent like 50 bucks on it at If you are looking at the motor (*standing in front of the car) look on the intakemanifold. The fastidle valve is on the front side of the IM on the right hand side. Its got two rubber hoses connected to it, and a copper top. Replace the whole assembly, and your car will be normal again.
    Finally with the intake pipe off of the t/b one of my friends noticed a 10mm bolt missing from the Fast idle valve underneeth the throttle body. I pulled the throttle body off to take a better look at it and sure enough i was missing a 10mm that holds the fast idle valve to the t/b.

    So we pulled the throttle body off put a bolt in it and bum!!!! Problem fixed...

    After all of that time it did end up being a vacum leak, it certanly wansn't expecting it to be underneeth the t/b but I'm very glad i found it..

    So guys before you start replacing your IACV's check and make sure you don't have a vacum leak, if you don't have a vacum leak take off your fast idle valve shake it, if the inside rattles, it went bad!!

    As for a bolt missing out of my fast idle valve I have no clue how that happen because i never remember taking it off or messing with it at all..

    So once again here are the fixes to this problem.

    1. Low coolant level, air in the cooling system.
    2. Vacum Leak in the maifold t/b, injector area
    3. Fast Idle Valve went bad
    4. Dirty screen in IACV
    5. Bad IACV in this case thou the motor would make a quick 400rpm surge.

    Hope this helps guys and good luck!!
  • Yup, raises the shift points as you said. Though basically the same can be accomplished by getting on the gas harder. I suppose someone might have a use for it but as far as I'm concerned it is pretty pointless.
  • When i make a hard turn, there is a very odd, high pitch noise that sounds like it is coming from the steering column, any guesses?
  • Elroy5, thank you for the advise, you are probably right, the board is smelling "amperes", I'm trying to find a electric repair expert (industrial instrumentation) to try to save my board. I'll send you the news. See u.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The one circled in Red is the IACV (idle air control valve), and the one circled in Yellow is the FITV (fast idle throttle valve).

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  • I have a similiar issue--'Just bought a '93 Accord LX with only 72K. I'd rather wait until it gets 90K before changing that timing belt. Is it possible to see if there is oil on the timing belt without taking the engine apart?

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If you look at the picture above, the upper timing belt cover is between the valve cover, and the orange dipstick loop. You can see half of the belt, with the upper cover removed. If there was oil in there, you would probably see it dripping out from the bottom of the lower cover. Good luck.
  • I'm assuming this picture is to rectify one of the tidbits of info I reposted that was written by someone who confused the two valves. I should've caught that and edited it, thanks for clearing things up for anyone who was confused by that elroy.


    Happy Turkey Day to all who are celebrating
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I would never fault anyone for giving their effort to help someone out. Just trying to clear things up. Happy Hollidays! :D
  • Thanks, elroy5. But I didn't see any picture above. Am I missing something? :confuse:
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    It's on the previous page now. Page 24.
  • I've got a question for anyone with a '93 Accord EX 5-spd: Is the transaxle ID Code H2A5 or H2U5? I'm planning on converting my automatic to a manual and I'm getting conflicting information on which transaxle I need. A local "auto recycling center" states that they have a H2A5 from a '93 EX, but the Haynes repair manual states the '93 EX had the H2U5 transaxle and the H2A5 was only on earlier EX's. I want to make sure I get the most improved design. Thanks!
  • I'm planning on converting my automatic to a manual and I'm getting conflicting information on which transaxle I need.

    I guess my first question is Why?
    '93 Accord EX 5spds aren't exactly rare or expensive. CL has them running between $2-3k aound these parts. I believe when you change the transmission you will also have to change the pedal assembly (so you have a clutch), add the clutch hydraulic system, change the transmission and motor mounts, change the engine computer so it knows its working with a stick, I think the axles are different too.
    Also, if you are going with this involved of a swap, I would probably go for the Honda factory service manual instead of the Haynes which leaves stuff out.
  • I got the Accord from a friend for half of what it's worth, and the only thing I didn't like was that it was a slushbox. There are plenty in the junkyard to dig parts from, and I've already got everything except the transaxle. (I've got the only auto Accord around with a clutch pedal!) I guess to answer your question, I just love working on cars, and I view the swap as a challenge and a learning opportunity. So, anyone got a '93 EX 5-Spd that can answer my transaxle ID question?
  • biksbiks Posts: 5
    I found a 1991 Honda Accord SE Sedan 4D on sale. It already has 148K miles on it.

    What things should I check before buying and What would be the best bargain for the vehicle?

  • biksbiks Posts: 5
    I have more details on the vehicle:

    - Exterior looks ok. But the cover just behind both rear wheels have picked up some rust. I guess this very common in Accords.

    - Both front seats (leather) are badly worn out. I am not sure if it worth repairing it.

    - On the right rear there are some scratches. Seems it hit something, but not very badly i guess.

  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    the honda used car appraiser is a start as far as value, but the condition of the vehicle and record of maintenance is so important:

    yoiu might want to see if you can find a forum related to buying a used car...

    you should check everything. ;)

    well, my advice would be (if you were serious about the vehicle) to spend $50-80 and have an independant specializing in Hondas give it a look over. a pre-purchase inspection.

    if the seller is confident in the condition of the vehicle, they will allow you to do that to determine more objectively the condition of the car.

    there are so many things you want to make sure are properly maintained, there'd be a long list of items. however a good shop can look it over in 1/2 hr to 1hr and determine if there are brake issues, starting, suspension / steering, transmission, etc.

    was it a single owner vehicle? do they have records of servicing? is it currently registered? carfax clean? did they have the timing belt / water pump replaced? if so when was it done? does it burn oil? if an A/T, when was the transmission last serviced? how many miles are on the brakes?

    if you drive it and notice any slipping or harst shifts in the transmission, erratic idle, poor braking, knocking / pinging from the engine, etc - you may be buying a problem vehicle.

    for me, engine condition / compression, transmission and condition of the brakes are very critical.
  • biksbiks Posts: 5
    Hi There!

    I just did a test ride and gathered few more information from the owner.

    1. Timing belt - Never changed or repaired
    2. it is has AT - Never serviced

    I drove about 10-15 miles and found the ride was not smooth. I noticed low vibration while driving at 30-50 Mph. It was little smoother at 70Mph but still not very smooth.

    I noticed very noticeable jerk when AT shifted from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3. Also, when I shifted back and forth between P, R , N and D , with brakes applied, I noticed harsh shift and sometimes it took about a second or little less to change. Does that indicate problem with transmission??

    The owner never changed the timing belt or water pump and never serviced transmission. So I guess I will need to change the timing belt as soon as I get it.

    Also, I noticed it was much more noisy inside.

    And what can we say about the condition of the vehicle ? good, fair or don't even bother looking at it ? ;)

  • Timing belt was due at 90k, if that breaks, the valves hit the pistons and it destroys the motor. That is about a $400-600 service (replace the waterpump, timing belt, etc). The transmission should be serviced more often then never. At this point, I would probably write off the transmission and run it until it dies.
    I have noticed at about 100-110k miles the front suspension needs to be rebuilt (tie rods, upper/lower ball joints, struts and mounts). My guess is given the car's lack of maintenance to date, that might be around the corner.
    The transmission mount for the automatic can fail and can make a rough idle in the cabin.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    well the timing belt and pump is going to set you back quite a bit - and with the other inevitable stuff...

    personally, unless you like a project vehicle where you are competent enough to do all the work yourself, and even if you had all the parts cheap... i'd say even then it may not be worth it...

    hondas are built pretty ruggedly, but there is regular maintenance which has to be done. you'd be inheriting all the maintenance they didn't do.

    personally - i'd pass on it.
  • I was reading the backlog and saw on posting #315 that you in fact have a '93 EX 5 Spd. Would you be willing to help me find out which transaxle you have so I can get the correct one? Thank you.
  • I would be happy to take a look. Do you know where it is stamped? I actually meant to look when I changed the oil over the weekend, I totally forgot.
  • I appreciate it. You're not the only one that thinks I'm nuts for doing this. The transmission ID code should be stamped on the front of the transmission where it bolts to the block. I believe there is just a little UPC-type label on it. Thanks again.
  • Hey guys, I am new here and wondered if anyone can help with a problem I have. I have got a 93 Accord (5 speed Manual) and I am getting a knocking / juddering sound when driving, but it doesn't happen all the time. It sounds almost like a flat tire, and only happens when I am driving at about 30+ miles per hour. It also only occurs when I have my foot on the gas, and then all of a sudden a knocking sound will kick in. When I let my foot off, it stops. As I say it doesn't happen all of the time, and over a period of time, the knocking get's worse. Anybody had this problem before?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Try this. In an empty parking lot, make tight circles to the left 3-4 times, then stop, and make tight circles to the right 3-4 times. Does the knock appear then?

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  • My '93 Honda Accord EX 5spd trans says H2U5 and its mated to an F22A6.
    If I were you and going through all this trouble, at least get a JDM trans with a limited slip so there is some cool factor involved, or install an aftermarket limited slip while you have the trans out.
    Eh or get a H22 vtec motor and a limited slip trans with that.
  • I knew it was the H2U5! The H2A5's gotta be for the '91/'92 EX. My local Honda/Acura specialty recycler (S&M Import in Omaha) tried to convince me that the H2A5 they have in stock was from a '93 EX. I'm sure it's an honest mistake; I've bought from them before with no problems. I'll look into a JDM trans. I assume that the domestic H2U5 doesn't have a limited slip diff. Thanks again, and let me know if you need assistance with anything.
  • I have a 92 Accord LX automatic that won't shift out of 2nd gear when in drive (up or down). It started off fine this morning, but before I got out of the neighborhood, I noticed it wouldn't up-shift, then when I let of the gas, it didn't downshift. Came to a stop, idled fine (TC dissengaged properly), but when I accelerated from a stop, still in 2nd. Shifting manually made no difference. Then I stopped, put it in park, turned off the ignition, restarted, no change. Park, reverse and neutral are all fine. Soloniod? Computer? I'm more familiar with manual trannies, so I'm stumped.
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