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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • Maybe running it dry messed up your fuel pump? I've always heard it is bad to run a car out of gas because it can damage your pump (causing it to overheat because it isn't being cooled by gasoline like normal).

    I'm no mechanic though, so don't take my word for it. I'm just speculating.
  • If you ran out of gas entirely, it will take a little while for the pump to get fuel from the tank in the back of the car all the way to the fuel rail in the front of the car. Think of it like waiting for the water to get from the hot water heater to the shower.
    An electrical failure (distributor) would be unrelated to the running out of gas.
  • I have a 1992 Accord that also had a leak in the tail light. The way I found out was my passenger turn signal went out. The front left turn signal works at a high speed now.
    I now need to trace a bad ground or power wire back to the turn signal since it won't correct with a new bulb and routine troubleshoot. Has anyone done this before? Any areas prone to wiring issues that I should check first?

  • You might check what is called the main relay. It is located way under the dash above a silver box. there is a simple solution to fixing this because the new relay you can only get from a dealer and is 70 bucks. email me for more info
  • My daughter has a 1990 Honda Accord LX with electric locks & windows. The drivers door wont unlock with the switch or key. The manual lock moves just a little but won't unlock the door. Does anyone have any experience with this problem?
  • I had this issue with a rear door and I had to remove the inside door panel and adjust the linkage from the lock acutator to the lock mechanism. If its not turning at all, you can try some lock lubricant first.
  • I don't see any post here related to A/C freon refill! I will post my question here. In case there is a post already, i will delete this.

    My accord 90 is not colling well. and the freon saver looks foamy so freon level is low. Should I replenish the system or should I leak it all out and put new gas in ? any hints?
  • If you never had to service your AC in your 1990 the bad news is you will have to convert the system to the newer R134 freon. The old stuff is almost impossible to find and if you do hold onto your wallet. A basically competent service facility can do this service as well as check all your components in case you have a leaking condenser etc. Good luck.
  • R12 is actually pretty easy to find...Pep Boys had it last time i was there. It is currently illegal to manufacture in the US, but our friends and neighbors to the south have no problems with it. Also, since most cars now use 134, the demand is much lighter for R12.
    That said, the conversion really isn't that big a deal anymore. They leak test the system and change over a couple of fittings and then refill the system with R134 and PAG oil.
    There is middle ground, there are freon types on the internet that claim to work for both or either. The issue is to find where the leak is coming from.
  • thank you man, If the freon is bad stuff I rather get the adaptor and use more nature friendly coolant gas. I am surprised you can get it in the stores!!!! CFC i mean!! How much would be the adaptation? more or less?
  • Freon isn't bad if its sealed inside your AC system...its when it leaks out that its bad.
    I would call around and get quotes from independent AC shops. I believe they change the valves on the system that are used for filling and emptying. A bigger and likely more costly issue is to find where the system is leaking from and repairing the faulty component.
    Many times, components are pretty cheap on eBay, but you still have to have someone evacuate the system and then refill it after repairs are completed.
  • If there is a leak, it must be really really small. I replaced the saver 3 years ago and it has been working until now. so What I can do is to keep refilling the system once adapt it to good 'freon' AC problem would cost me big bucks ...i was asking about changing the 'adaptor' to use friendly freon...what could it be?
  • Someone please help me!:(. My Honda accrod 1990 Automatic is giveing me trouble!:( the S keeps blinking, and the car is loseing it's power when the S blinks. At first it runs great, then the S blinks and the car loses it's speed, and when I put the car on park and turn it off, it makes a loud noise like clak! what can it be? the car runs great untill the S starts blinking.
  • supra4life1
    Go back to message 359 and start forward. You will most probably need a transmission control module but please read the posts to verify with what your symptoms are. Messages around #382 talk about it also. Putting it in park and getting a clunk is a new one but the S light is probably the key to your problem. Good luck.
  • Hi,

    My Gear shift handle has a button that turns on a sport green light on the dashboard panels. What is this for?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    If I understand it correctly, it raises the shift-points (for example it might shift at 3,500 RPM in Sport mode where it would normally shift at 2,700 RPM). I hope someone else will confirm this, but I believe that is what it's purpose has a more aggresive shift pattern for sportier driving/acceleration.
  • ill bet its the fuel injectors because i almost did that once and my dad yelled saying i could mess the injectors up.. they will like freeze or dryout basically so have them checked
  • The automatic transmission of my 92 Accord still crazy, some times it works great, other times it "turns on" the D4 light and really shifts (and lock) just the third gear. At these times it just accept to shift to first and rear gears "manually". The return to normal operation happens eventually, without previous notice or rule. I saw other people with the almost same problem, is the solution to change the transmission computer? Could I try to repair damaged components in the computer circuit? : :confuse:
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    did you google it? there is a site where they rebuild these things - but there's also information out there that helps you read the code(s) from the thing if i'm not mistaken. having trouble searching tonight. you might take a look.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I had the same problem with my 92 Accord. It was the computer (tranny). If you open up the computer, you should find black spots on the circuit boards where the capacitors have leaked on them. It will cost you a bundle for a new computer, so I would try to find one used. But be sure to open it up, and check out the boards before buying one. Good luck.
  • hello all i have a 91 honda accord lx and when i start the car or it is in nuetral it revs up and down on its own continuesly i have looked at the throttle and the gas peddle ( or however it is spelled) and they are both fine. when the car is in drive and in first the rpm's never go down all the way and the car kinda accelerates itself can someone anyone tell me what the hell is going on? you can reply to me on here or at thanks everyone
  • Just aquired a 92 LX with 86,000 miles. Fatherinlaw bought the car new. It has never been back to the dealer. It runs great and looks good (Garaged since new) Do I need to be concerned about the timing belt. How difficult is it to replace it with the kit and water pump? I would like to do the work myself.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    There are many "how-tos" on the internet. Do a search. You need to change it at 90k miles.
  • if it only has 86,000 dont worrie about the timing belt unless he use to drive it reall hard then ya might wanna have it checked other than that i wouldnt replace it till about 150,000 i changed mine at 200,000 never changed it before that it wasnt too bad just alil loose
  • does anyone here have a accord with h22 in it??
  • if it only has 86,000 dont worrie about the timing belt unless he use to drive it reall hard then ya might wanna have it checked other than that i wouldnt replace it till about 150,000 i changed mine at 200,000 never changed it before that it wasnt too bad just alil loose

    Given its age and mileage, I definitely wouldn't put it off past 90k. The engine is an interference design so when the belt breaks, the valves and the pistons try to occupy the same space. This makes a game over for the engine. While you are in there, most people change the tensioners and the water pump.
    If you dont do this and the belt breaks, the engine sustains major damage and then you keep posting about how to find an H22 conversion instead of googling it or looking at the Sport Compact Car website where they did it in a project car.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Not many here, but there are many who have made the swap. Try a search.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    if it only has 86,000 dont worrie about the timing belt unless he use to drive it reall hard then ya might wanna have it checked other than that i wouldnt replace it till about 150,000 i changed mine at 200,000 never changed it before that it wasnt too bad just alil loose

    You are one of the lucky ones. There are many who waited, and were sorry they did (some have broken soon after 100k). If the belt breaks, your engine is usually not worth repairing afterwards.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I think it is pretty labor intensive, but definitely DO the change, especially considering it is practically 15 years old. Don't avoid this, or you'll have a nice lump of metal that was once an engine.
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