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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    Thank you man!! I will take it to the mechanic!! I mihgt frive to Canada it has to be perfect!
  • hey all accord drivers
    im need to replace my front brakes i have done this job many times on other cars but i really dont want any surprises when i take the front tires off does any one have any tricks or a pic of this ps i lovemy car its 325000 km on it fantastic and many more to come thanx all dice
  • i have a 90 accord and have 2 or 3 problems first thing the a/c was juz fixed and doesn't seem too get cold like my explorer does and it is not a r12 sys anymore been changed to 134 and when i am using the a/c the car loses power after i have ran it for a long time can hold the gas paddle down all the way and the car takes off slow

    does any one know whats wrong?

    2nd thing is the passenger rear wheel make a loud bang when i hit bumps in the road have replace the strut already
    does anyone know whats up with it?
    little back ground on it the car has 16" wheels with 215/50 on all 4 corners 4-2-1 header aftermarket cat and 2 1/4 pipe to the muffler (also aftermarket do not know model number) strut brace in the front and cold air intake in the fender
    thanx for any help dan
  • Changing front rotors is a big deal. You have to remove the axel nut and separate the steering knucle from the lower ball joint to get access to 4 bolts on the back of the assembly to get the wheel bearing out which sandwiches the rotor. If you are going to change rotors, its pie.
  • lej5875lej5875 Posts: 2
    Hi,If there is NO spark in the HT leads, then replace Coil which is fitted in the Distributer Box.
  • lej5875lej5875 Posts: 2
    Its fuel Cut off main Relay which is fitted above the Accelater pedal.
  • zmanecuzmanecu Posts: 1
    My 1992 Honda Accord EX seems to be stuck in 2nd & 3rd gears. When in "P" the Dash light shows it in "P" and "D". Put in "D" it starts off in 3rd gear and stays there. Put it in 1st, it starts out in 2nd gear. Whatever Gear you put it in, the dash lights show it in "that" gear and "D".
    It has to be Electrical because when your sitting still, there would be a clicking noise in the shifter between the seats. WHAT"S THE PROBLEM? I'm getting frustrated.
  • cb7exrcb7exr Posts: 3
    Ok so I just spent a load of cash on a new clutch. But now when it's very hot outside/ engine is very hot, the car slips out of gears a lot, just like before with the old clutch. It will slip in every gear significantly and it's extremely hard to get up to speed. I brought the car back to my mechanic (who I trust and is pretty good)and he bled the clutch, which it turns out did nothing. Is the new clutch not done properly or is my transmission on it's way out?? Ideas? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Sounds like the mechanic has to eat this one.

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  • We recently obtained a 1990 Accord w/195,000 miles. The problems is with the rear running lights. A "brake lights" red warning comes up on the instrument panel.

    With the headlights on, the rear running lights don't work. With the headlights and left signal on, everything works. With the headlights and right signal on, the running lights don't work. On the running lights setting, the running lights work fine.

    Any clues :confuse: ? A lighting relay? Wiring?

  • That sounds like a ground problem of some sort...was the car ever rear ended? I would check both filiments on the rear bulbs (there are 2, one brake and one tail lamp) and the CHMSL. I would then check to see if power is going to the socket in each case using a volt meter. If there is no power there, check the upstream wiring and the switch. If there is current going to the bulb and it doesn't light, check the ground paths. Also, check for corrosion about the bulb socket and make sure the wiring isn't loose.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    hello My 1990 honda is getting water in the trunk when it rains(, FL). I sealed the back lights and I put some silicon around the rubber around the trunk . Still it gets wet inside..Should I change the rubber around?
  • There is a drain line (I think it starts above the rear window) that gets clogged and then leaks into the trunk. IIRC the dealer did repaired it and it wasn't very expensive.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    I'd be more apt to swap out the headlight switch/directional assembly --that should be a one piece unit on a stalk off the steering post.

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  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    in myhonda the left fan..looking at them fron the driver seat connected to the same input as the windshield has been working for years!
  • Where can I get this drain line at or how do I find it? I have the same problem on my 1990.
  • sed1sed1 Posts: 8
    Our 93 Accord had the same problem and our body man sealed the rear turn signal/taillight assemblies because, I was told, the grommet dried out. When they dry out and shrink,it lets let the drain/rainwater, which drains down the channel on the side of the roof above the doors, then runs to the channel in the trunk, which probably then goes to the mentioned hose or drain hole. Hope that helps, and it wasn't very expensive.
  • pastatiepastatie Posts: 26
    I also had the trunk leak, right side. Bulldog6821 is correct. There is a gasket behind the turn signal/tailight assembly. I believe 4 nuts hold is on. Take them off, pop off the lense. Clean the area and use silicon caulk on the gasket. You could buy a new gasket but the silicon works. I had not more trunk leakage. All roof/trunk surface water drains through these channels on either side of the trunk by these lenses. Hope this helps.
  • don't know if anyone got back to you regarding this or if you still need help with that. If you do, let me know, i have the repair manual, can scan in a couple pages for you.

    i removed mine last year, there were a couple tricky part or spots in order to remove the front bumper.

    or you can email me at
  • hi there, my driver side power window won't go straight up. It goes down no problem, and when it goes up, it goes all the way to the top but will slide out of the rubber channel, so when it rains water will come in and of course driving on the highway is worst with the wind noise since it will leave an opening. If i push the window back while it's going up, it seems to stay on its track ( after my fingers got caught between the glass and the door frame ).

    would like to have it fix before the snow comes but am not sure where the problem comes from. is it the riser bar or is it the windown guide insdie the door.

    comments are appreciated.

  • jdipjdip Posts: 2
    mike711, i really need your help. I have the "s" light on solid, the car stuck in second gear and no codes coming up. The honda dealer can not help me, they tell me that i need a new transmission, however the problem goes away for a couple days when you restart the computer, then just comes right back. did you have any luck with replacing the TCU? Did it solve the problem? Anyone out there with any suggestions?
  • jdipjdip Posts: 2
    pastatie, I will now search ebay for the transmission control did you know which module to buy? you said "BE VERY CAREFUL which module you get as Honda had a lot of problems with these from 90-93 and superseded parts numbers." can you give me a hand?
  • i have the same problem, did u ever find a solution for it?
    please let me know. thank you and god bless.
  • pastatiepastatie Posts: 26
    If you have a friendly Honda dealer parts department just call and ask what is the exact part number. I don't have the number of the one I took out ( which was the original installed unit) but the one I bought on Ebay, and the one which will also work, is 28100-PX4-823. This is a superseded unit # from the stock number. I got this number from a parts guy at my local Honda dealer so I purchased it on that basis and it works on my 1991 Accord LX sedan. There is a difference between EX and the DX-LX models so this is where my caution comes from. Hope this helps.
  • If you google Majestic Honda they have an online parts area that has the micro-fische (sp?) for most Hondas by model and year. You get an exploded view of the assembly and all the part numbers.
    Their prices seem good but the shipping seems a lil steep.
  • I had the same problem, had the ignitor changed and then the relay switch.
  • thx!! but any chance, do u remember how much the labor and parts were?
  • I just got a this car and need to replace the transaxle (CV). It is a manual transmission without ABS. The parts seem to be reasonably priced and I'm thinking of doing the replacement myself. I've heard this is an easy (?) repair. Should I pick the cheapest remanufactured parts or go with OEM new? Any tips on the removal and installation procedures? Thanks.
  • FukuyamaFukuyama Posts: 75
    Hi man, I checked my car and this is what I found. Recently I sent my car I the guy paiented & repaired it. He also told me that I should replace the rear "windshield" since there was rust under the (rubber & joint) that holds the glass to the frame. I checked that out. I opened the trunk and left it open, I poured some water on the rear glass and came down to the canals around the trunk. between the rubber and the chasis and the rubber that holds the rear glass some water got into the rust and leaked into the trunk !!! Is there anyway I could repair that without taking off the rear glass.And If I have too, Do I have to repaint the whole car?

    Thank you in advance
  • sed1sed1 Posts: 8
    There are clips,that any local body shop should have, that fit on the outside of the window and guide it into the window rubber. Our body guy didn't even charge us for clipping it into the window frame. That took care of our problem.
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