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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • my key wont turn when i go to start my car. i know turn the wheel and stuff like that. but even if i do it sometimes it just wont budge. this car has front end problems. would this have anything to do with this?? if not, would taking it apart be the best idea? the steering wheel that is.
  • I did have to replace the ignition cylinder on my '93. The key switch wouldn't turn. The '91 had to get replaced because it would turn but not do anything.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Click on this link and read up. It will probably give you an idea what the problem is. Good luck
  • Hello all! this is my first post - a newbie.

    Have a 92 Accord with 162K. Car was overheating (no red) and mechanic thought it was the temp. coolant sensor (for the computer) and said I could save some money and replace it myself. Bought the Neihous (sp?) brand as instructed. Couldn't get the sensor out (didn't have right tool) and so I (my bad) drove it for a month or so and used the temp. dial to reduce the temp. Fans didn't want to run consistently - sometimes they would, sometimes not. OK, so new radiator because it split a seam on top and mechanic replaced the temp. sensor at that time.

    Just before Thanksgiving, was driving up to Morris, MN and the heater is blowing ONLY cool air (it just started blowing cold air - had heat before that).

    Drove home with cool air, called my mechanic and he said it was probably low on coolant. Sure enough, opened radiator cap and saw no liquid, so added to top. But, now I don't have heat and it's COLD in MN and the car is still overheating (well, never reached the red zone, but the gauge goes almost to the red and then the fan kicks on and car cools down some.

    Usually, the temp. gauge 'lives' around the D for drive, but now, once it reaches temp., it will climb up to the N (drive, neutral, park, etc.) and stays there, regardless of RPM... however, when I come to a stop sign or light, the engine temp climbs. Once I start moving, the gauge drops down to N again.

    The really weird thing, though, is the hotter the engine gets, the cooler the air.

    My mechanic has replaced:

    temp. sensor
    coolant flush
    heater core flush
    some other valve cleaned out
    water pump ) which looked fine, by the way but replaced it anyway along with the timing belt and some offset (?) something-or-other belt since he was there anyway

    He doesn't think it's the head gasket, because I haven't noticed any white smoke and when re-filling the system with coolant, the air bubbles are clear (no gaseous smell or look) and apparently the oil looks fine and I haven't noticed any fluid leak on the snow where I park.

    After he put in the water pump, we ran the car in his shop for at least 20 minutes and the thermostat opened up fine, the heater was blowing HOT air like crazy and the temp gauge stayed on the "D" and didn't climb. Yea! We thought it was fixed!

    I started to drive home and approx. 2 miles along, after going up a steep, curvy incline, the temp. once again started to climb but the heat kept blowing Ok. by the time I had gone approx. 8 miles, the temp was almost up to the "P"ark and heater was blowing cool air. Then the road started going downhill (15% grade) and the temp. started to come down some but still blowing cool air. For some reason, the temp will go down slightly when going downhill.

    I know I've gone on and on, but this problem has been going on for a long time.

    Anybody have a clue what is wrong? I really appreciate any help.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Not a Honda guru here, but I thought I remembered reading where the cooling system gets air-blocked after a drain refill, and you need to jack up the right front corner of the vehicle and open some air drain screw.

    You might want to send an email to, from your carspace email. See mailbox in upper right hand corner. I believe this one is right up his alley.
  • Thank you! I'll email him now. Appreciate your response

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    From all those symptoms, it could be the fan timer, air in the system, or clogging. Read the link below, it should help. Good luck
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Let's not ask people to take conversation off-line - keeping the questions and answers here on the board will help many others now and in the future by building the Forums' knowledgebase. When the conversation goes off-line, that opportunity is lost.

    And, as we see, elroy5 is here and helping, as always. :)

    Marcia4, welcome to CarSpace! Glad to have you here. Keep us posted.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sorry, 30 lashes....
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Heh, not necessary. Have some egg nog - there's some over there on the table for everyone. ;)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I was not sure I should post links on the forum, but it's a lot easier than trying to explain all the possible causes for the overheating problem. If you don't approve, let me know. :D
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Not a problem at all - we welcome all sources of helpful information. :)

    Did you find the eggnog?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Great! That web site has a lot of very useful information on older Accords, and the common problems associated with them. Sometimes I think maybe I should have kept my old Accord, because with all this information, I could have kept it running forever.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    I wish I still had my '94. Someone is driving and enjoying it today. :cry:
  • My 1993 Is Having Problems Starting, But Only Occasionally. Usually It Starts Fine, But Once In A While When I Turn The Key, Nothing Happens, I Have No Dash Lights, No Clock Or Dome Light, Nothing--completely Dead. Yesterday This Happened And I Had Put The Key In And Turned Part Of The Way. The Lights Came On But When I Shut The Door, Everything Died. I Opened The Door And Slammed It Again And Averything Came Back On And It Started As Normal. Any Thoughts?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    First thing to check would be loose or corroded battery cables or connections (be sure to check both ends of the ground cable). If that is not the problem, go to Autozone and get the battery/charging system checked. Good luck
  • Front end is making a grinding noise when I turn sharp left or right. Right axle and bearing have been replaced. If I turn in a parking spot a little fast or put a heavy load on the front, it makes the noise. If I do sharp circles , with gas pressed, it sounds like metal on metal, when I let off gas, the noise reduces, but still hear it. It is not a constant noise, you can tell it is affected by something turning, it would be like click, click, click, except it is a rubbing noise.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I'm no mechanic, but could it be the CV joint?
  • Have you checked the brake pads lately?

    Also, the tin shield behind the brake rotor may be bent and is rubbing the rotor. It's not uncommon to bend that thin shield when removing and lowering a tire. The shield may also be very rusty. I had scraping on my 88 Accord, and after chasing the noise for a while, I found the shield had swelled up from rust in an area behind the rotor. I had to remove the rotor to get to the rusty area.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I've also heard of rocks (or other debris) getting lodged between the rotor and dust shield.
    Does it sound like something is turning while rubbing (changes with speed) or does it sound the same, regardless of speed? The ball joints and suspension bushings are famous for making scrunching sounds, especially when it's cold. The ball joint/bushing noises will go away in the summer, and return every winter. If I would go over a speed bump with my 92 Accord it would make a sort of "fart" sound, but only when the temperature was below 45 degrees, which is not very often here in the deeeep South.
  • Thanks for the comments. I will check the dust shield. It is not a consistent rubbing. It varies with speed, the faster, the more rubs and you have to turn sharp. I also hear the popping in cold weather, but it has done that for a few yeas. I am going to take it in for an alignment and see if they notice anything, I know it is pulling to one side.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You can also check for loose suspension components by jacking the wheel up and grabbing the wheel (top and bottom and front and back) and pushing and pulling on it. The old phrase "kick the tires" was to check for loose suspension.
  • My car fans work when a/c is on and when car is shut off after driving but will not work at idle. Once I put the heat on the temperture gauge goes back to normal. Please help!
  • rustycrustyc Posts: 1
    can someone help me ? I need to remove the drivers side interior door panel. Screws are all out and the panel is pulled away from the door . Only thing holding the panel on is the latch . Opened the latch and removed the screw behind it, but it seems as if the latch is part of the cover . Is there something I am supposed to do to dissconect the latch from the door linkage? Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated ! Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    There is a rod connected to the latch that has to be disconnected. There is a plastic clip that holds the rod on where it is attached. Do not break the plastic clip, because the rod will easily come out without it. If you can open the window glass, try to access the rod from outside the door. It will give you a better view behind the door panel. Good luck
  • My 1990 accord brake lights only work on one side. The parking lights work but that same side is dimmer than the other. Also If I have the headlights on the cruise control will not work. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.
  • Thanks for the quick response. I went to the link but it doesnt give my scenario. Any other suggestions. Also do you know where the temperature fan relay is located? I'm thinking that since the fans are working while a'/c is on and when car is turned off after driving that it has to be something simple like a relay.Thanks again
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Click on the link again and read " the importance of bleeding", Symptom: fan won't run while engine is on.

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Pull your bulbs, and check the filaments.
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