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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Suspect a blown head gasket, with coolant leaking into the pistons. Do a compression test on the cylinders.
  • Could it be the catalac converter. a couple of months ago i got the muffler replaced and they told me it was also going bad. also my dad rebuilt the engine last year. would the converter make it lose power like that?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The white smoke is a telltale sign of making steam from water. Betting that he's missing coolant and has been filling it up periodically. Water and metal don't go well together.
  • Our 1993 was experiencing the same problems at 120,000 miles.
    After deciding it was an electrical problem, we removed the plastic cover for the gear shift lever and used contact cleaner on several wires and contacts there. That made all the difference and now starts and shifts out of gear correctly. A very easy and quick repair. I wish someone had told us how to do this trick, we figured it out on our own. So hopefully this will someone out there.
  • I checked my ABS code. The ABS light comes on and goes off normally when the Key is turned on. Then it blinks with one blink and then nothing. After a few seconds a nother 'one blink' and then nothing. After a few seconds a final 'one blink' and then nothing. That is it.
    What does that mean?
  • 116549116549 Posts: 17
    Do you have any pictures for steps on how to replace the fuel filter? I know it is under the vacuum device and you have to unscrew the two bolts, but after that, I am not very keen on what to do.
  • 116549116549 Posts: 17
    okay, replaced the filter, and so far runs great! I hope that was the problem, it was pretty much the only thing that was left to do!
  • ok, i drive a 1991 honda accord. it has approxomatly 300k miles on it but this problem didnt seem to start until about this saturday. i noticed that my car started getting excessivley hot only after a little drive. but the thing that during my drive the temperature reading would go up to the H and then all the sudden gradually decend back to the middle after i switched gears. (car is a stick shift by the way). but then the car would get hot again. at first i thought it was the radiator so i flushed it and added more anti-freeze, but for some reason...the car only got hotter the next time i drove it. and then someone told me that it may be the water pump but they werent sure cause nothing was leaking. then someone told me it was the thermostat...but i really have no idea as to whats going on....can someone help me. oh and can someone also tell me appproxomatly the amount of labor hours i should expect to be charged for just so when i take the car in i know how much im lookin at. that is ...if its the thermostat.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If it is the thermostat, it shouldn't cost too much (easy to change). Do both of the cooling fans come on when the A/C is turned on? If you like, you can click on the link below. It has a lot of information on this subject. Good luck.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    This may be a stupid question.
    Are you just looking at the gauge or is it blowing steam from under the hood?
    Is the water low after getting hot?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    I'd swap out the thermostat and if that doesn't work I'd test for a head gasket leak before removing the water pump.

    Rapid overheating from a cold start is not a good sign. Could be the exhaust gases boiling water. But a bad thermostat could give this symptom. I don't think a bad water pump (broken impeller?) would allow the temp gauge to recover at all.

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  • Hi I have a 92 LX wagon and I wanted to know if there is any difference between the 2.2L in a 92 compared to a 94 2.2L. I'm asking because my local library has the chilton manual for the 94 but not my 92.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Most things concerning engines and transmissions will be the same. The body style changed, so some parts may be different. I'd say 90% or more will be the same.
  • Hello

    92 Accord LX that runs very rough after sitting for 10 to 12 hrs. Sometime its so bad I cannot keep the car running, running on one maybe two cylinders. If I floor it it will run rough for a bit and then kick in and runs great. Can feel cylinders kicking in one at time. Has new plugs, rotor,cap, and valves just adjusted.

    Could this be fule injectors? Or????

    Thank you
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Sounds like you could have a distributor problem. When you take the cap off, is there a metal dust present? Did you check for spark at each plug?
  • mm04mm04 Posts: 16
    I have a 92 Accord EX with a problem.

    The car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear when I start off from a standstill. I can manually select all forward gears, however it appears that I only have two forward gears working (2nd and 3rd). Neutral, Reverse and Park all work fine.

    At first the D4 light started blinking. Now it stays on regardless of which gear I select. Jumping the blue (2-wire) connector does not result in the D4 light blinking (indicating any codes).

    I have read where these models have a history of burned resistors and leaking capacitors in the Transmission Control Module (TCM). I haven’t pulled the TCM to see yet.

    Does the symptoms I describe indicate a bad TCM?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Yes, if the D4 light stays on continuously, it's probably the TCU. You can open it up, and you will probably see dark spots on the circuit board from leaking capacitors. I don't know if they are repairable. If I were you I would try to find a used one in a junkyard (from a wrecked car). A new one, if you could get a new one, would cost a bundle. Good luck.
  • i just changed my clucth and i put everything back together and now my starter is not starting the car what could it be i changed the sylniod for the starter but its still doing it
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I am just guessing here, but could it be the clutch position switch. The starter will not work without the clutch pedal pushed down, so I suspect the switch was knocked out of alignment while working on the clutch. Not sure where the switch is, but I would look under the dash near the clutch pedal arm. Good luck.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I am just guessing here, but could it be the clutch position switch. The starter will not work without the clutch pedal pushed down, so I suspect the switch was knocked out of alignment while working on the clutch.

    I'm not a mechanic, but this was my thought as well.
  • it will kick out and spin it just makes a whining noise
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the starter is actually doing something, it's not the clutch switch. I was under the impression that nothing was happening. From your last post, it sounds like the starter is not engaging the flywheel, and not turning the engine over. Don't know if you can buy just the affected part, or the entire starter would need to be changed though. I would have the starter tested.
  • yep.i finally decided to egt a rebuilt TCU. go to ebay and look for the seller: mandigital. i bought one from him 140 bucks with 3 year warranty ...good deal and no more s or D4 blinking
  • Hello,
    I have a 1993 Accord EX. I have owned it for about 3 years now with very few problems. For the last couple of days I have been having problems with the gear shift. It's very difficult to shift between gears. Moving the shifter from in gear to neutral is fine, but moving from neutral to any gear requires great force. Since owning this car, I've occasionally had a similar problem with shifting into 1st gear, but now it's all gears.
    Has anyone had a similar problem who can offer some insight?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I'm not a mechanic so I'm not much help to you, but just to clarify, you do mean a manual transmission, right? If indeed it is an automatic, check the shift-lock release maybe? If it is a manual, I'm no help!
  • Yes, it is a 5 speed manual transmission.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    on some rare occasions, I would have difficulty getting into 1st on my '94 accord MT. what I would do would be to go to reverse first, then back into first. I think this happens to many folks.

    but what you are describing sounds a lot like a mis-adjusted or inoperative clutch. i'm pretty challenged in this area, but I'm thinking there is a hydraulic resevoir (clutch master cylinder) for the clutch next to the one for the brakes. look in your owner's manual and see if it describes where the clutch cylinder and resevoir is located, and see if there is sufficient fluid or if there is water in there.

    sorry as to not be of more help.
  • Thanks, you were a great help.

    That's exactly what it was. The hydraulic resevoir for the clutch was almost empty. I filled it to the max with DOT 3 brake fluid and now everything is running smoothly. Now I just have to watch the fluid levels to see if I have any leaks.

    Thanks again.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    right, keep watching it, and if the level appreciably drops you're going to have to find the location of the leak. i'm not sure what honda recommends for the clutch master cylinder, but if its DOT3 brake fluid, you're good. I try to keep it to OEM spec'ed fluids.

    glad it worked out.
  • Both the '93 Accords Ive had required a new clutch slave cylinder. Neither required an actual clutch.
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