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Comments
Are you loosing coolant because your car is overheating; do you have leaks? What about the oil..is is leaking somewhere (you need to identify exactly where are you loosing your oil?). What about when you start your car.. does the fumes have any special colors? Have you check your spark plugs..are they oily?
It could be that you are loosing oil, and maybe that is making your car to work in higher temp. which makes a higher probability to loose coolant thru a poor maintained radiator, hoses, etc.
241k miles are a lot of miles...have you change any rings yet?.
Seems that people wants to put your car to "sleep" no matter what...but before we take that in consideration, let see if we are able to pinpoint the problem you are having.
When you said "usual start-up sounds" are you saying that you hear 2 relays closing and the sound of the gas pump working...does your starter kicks in but the engine is not able to engage?...please be very specific.
Provide any maintenance details or work done in your engine for the last 18 months. If any repair was done, what was change.
Reset your computer codes by : driving for 15 min.; then disconnect the battery for 5 min (make sure you have the code for your radio) and then connect it and drive it for another 10min...check the codes again (provide the codes).
How many miles your car have? Check the color of your spark plugs (detail description of them...color, if oily, tip very worn, etc)
Provide as much info. so we can narrow the source of the problem...
Thanks
1. I check the radiator fan and it works, but it only comes on only when the A/C is on. What controls the radiator fan to turn on?
2. The condenser fan will come on only if I tap it with something. Is the condenser fan going bad?
Thanks in advance.
The sensors that controls each of the fans in your car are not the same; the sensor that controls the condenser fan triggers at a higher temp. which means that they will never turn on at the same time.
Read #481 for more details and possible causes for overheating.
Good luck.
http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl022i.htm
but that's location information for a '94.
not sure where you'd find it on a '97.
found this:
http://www.faqfarm.com/Q/Where_is_the_speed_sensor_on_a_1990_honda_accord_locate- d
maybe someone else can help?
maybe you could ask at an auto parts dealer.
- Ignition Control Module. (ICM)
- Engine Control module (ECM)
But remember; before changing anything; just make sure that all the electrical connectors inside your distributor are clean of rust and they are not loose.
Here is some info. you can read about ignition coils:
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa062902a.htm
Good luck
But you brought up a good point; most probably there is a problem with any of the sensors that the ECM uses in order to send the signal to the ICM which determines the triggering of each spark plug. In my Honda '94 these are the CKP(crank angle), TDC(top dead center) and CYP(cylinder position) sensors which are located inside the distributor... I believe that in a 97 V6 they use the same sensors but they are located in a different place.
In order to diagnose those sensors in a model older than a 96; I'll recommend to use an OBDII scan tool (some auto parts shops do it for free) because they provide more information than trying to pull the error codes manually (thru counting the blinking of the engine light in the dashboard). In summary:
- Diagnose your car with an OBDII scan tool and check the status of CKP, TDC and CYP sensors. In addition, take note if there are problems with any other components. Keep in mind that scan tools are not 100% accurate, so you need to analyze additional related components in order to figure out your problem.
- Check/replace the Ignition coil.
- Check/replace your ICM
- Check/replace your ECM (less probable)
95 Accord Ex 2.2 VTEC. 118K
I have been looking for a explanation to one of my long standing Issue. I drive a manual and bought this Accord in 2004. I have avaraged around 29-30 MPG 70 Highway 30 City.
I have put 30K on it and I downshift all the time. My friends who travel with me are stunned and advised me not to do that. I have allways downshifted to slow down or to stop. I do not go lower than 3rd gear though.
I need some desperate advice or suggestion or comments on this issue. Am i damaging the PowerTrain in anyway? Please respond if you have any information.
Thank You.
I have another issue too. The Timing Belt was replaced at 60K now i have 118K, the manual says every 90K. Is it the same for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd changes too.
I also have the actuator in the driver door making weird noise. I am going to do it myself in the summer, cold here in the winter to work on cars.
I use full synthetic oil and change oil in it 7K or lower as mentioned in the manual. What is your oil change intervals on the full synthetic.
Big Issue is the SRS light in the center of the dash on for no apparent reason. Took it to a friendly mechanic and got it checked out. Faulty turn switch ring in the steering column. I do not know what that means, I decided to wait, post it out here and see anyone here has similar issue with SRS.
Mrbill
i'd personally continue with the downshifting with a manual. there's a time and a place for it. after all, it is a manual. life's too short not to have fun.
and he's supposed to be braking with the brakes and the engine anyway right?
One of the more common failures of ATs is slipping which is usually signs of the clutch being worn.
My response was strictly based on the question of more wear with downshifting or not. Logically, the more you use anything, the more it will wear.
Sure, downshifting can be more fun then just pushing the clutch in and using the brakes 100% I guess if your willing to risk having to replace a clutch, then go for it. It's all a personal like-dislike I guess.
Enjoy which ever way you decide to do it, both will work.
Mrbill
exception: Long downhill runs, when you do use the lower gear for braking.
I have another issue too. The Timing Belt was replaced at 60K now i have 118K, the manual says every 90K. Is it the same for 1st, 2nd, and 3rd changes too.
I also have the actuator in the driver door making weird noise. I am going to do it myself in the summer, cold here in the winter to work on cars.
I use full synthetic oil and change oil in it 7K or lower as mentioned in the manual. What is your oil change intervals on the full synthetic.
I have a bad actuator on my 1996 also. Passenger side, rear. It makes the whining noise, and maybe one in thirty times does it actually go up or down. It started as just the noise, but eventually died on me at about 145,000 miles. It's no big deal, since I rarely carry passengers in the car.
Timing belt is every 90k, as you said. Apparently it was done early at 60k miles. Now you can wait until 150k.
I think I'd only downshift when the gear I'm shifting INTO, the lower one, caused my RPMs to be under 3k. Going from something like 3rd to 2nd at 40 MPH seems a bit excessive. Maybe I'd wait until my RPMs went under 2,000, THEN downshift (pushing RPMs back to the 2,500-3k range or so).
Oil changes? I go every 4,000 or so, but I drive in stop and go, and don't use synthetic.
I don't know about the SRS light, I've never had that issue.
There is a Service Bulletin that does cover your car, which also relates to your very specific problem!
It's service bulletin 98-081.
I used to have a similar car, a '95 though. It covers emission issues, which in reality is a LOT... I got the list and it's really long... And it gives you an extended warranty up to 150,000 miles, or 14 years... Pretty nice... I already had my Distributor and Speed Sensor replaced, and a free Tune Up at 75,000.
BUT, as much as I understand, you going to a Honda Service, complaining about the car is not gonna make them pull out service bulletin 98-081... You need to bug them and tell them about it.
Check with a Honda Service in your area. You've got nothing to lose. And if, in the meantime, you've repalced the Speed Sensor, or even the Distributor Cap ---- call Honda, ask them to reimburse you for your out of pocket. That's exactly what happened to me (I was not aware of this bulletin at the time of repair, and was reimbursed by Honda couple months later).
you're going to have to downshift eventually anyway to match gearing and engine speed, etc like the AT does.
i think the poster realizes, you don't downshift for the purposes of over-revving.
the downshift is an action preceeding another action.
gosh, do you think people with manuals are slowing to lights from speed with the clutch in?
Given the cost to repair, and the iffy state of the body, he suggested just driving until it fails. Can anyone estimate how long it might take to die, with mostly short commuting use, and will any engine additives help?
thanks for any advice
richard in newton, mass.
One way to test is, with insulated gloves or pliers, rev the engine slightly and then pull the spark plug wire off in the suspected cylinder. If the noise suddenly doubles in frequency, it's a loose wrist pin--if it remains the same in frequency, it's probably a rod or severe piston slap.
I'm not sure why the car should run rough, however, and vibrate. This may indicate a drop in compression. Maybe you need to do a compression test. If you've dropped compression and the cylinder refuses to fire at all, then you know not to drive it anymore.
Actually, I'm wondering if maybe you have a collapsed valve lifter or a worn camshaft lobe. That's more in keeping with the symptom of noise+vibration, since a bad lifter or bad lobe would both cause a cylinder to not fire.
Based on this, I guess he doesn't have any other option than driving until it dies.
Determining how much time the engine has left it is going to be difficult (again assuming he doesn't know anything about testing car engines).
The only thing I can recommend is to make sure to check the oil level everyday.
Richard; nobody will pay more than a 800 bucks for your car right now...but if you really want to make some money from it; I'll recommend to try to sell it by pieces (if you have time and patience)...my neighbor paid $100 for an accord front windshield!.
Good luck!
Whatever the cause, your advice about driving to death makes sense. Think it would be worth trying any additives like STP to keep it well-lubed? On the other hand, with New England winter coming, might not be a good idea.
thanks again.
richard in boston
No, additives won't help, it's too late for that...however, if it were a sticking lifter, additives might help.
you've got a fuse box in the engine compartment (black box), and two fuse blocks I think on either side of the dash assembly. open the doors and look at the dash from the side, you should see two access doors.
can't tell you the actual fuse position or which block it would be in. perhaps that is printed on the access panels.
with a multi-meter, or battery and bulb, you could check continuity of each fuse. sometimes the blown fuse isn't easy to see visually. pull and reseat all your fuses related to the function you are troubleshooting.
Has anyone experience such an abrupt failure of a 4AT transmission? Could some type of hose/pump come loose inside the tranny from the last oil change? Can this type of failure only be fixed with a tranny replacement? Any help would greatly appreciate, this is a perfect commuter car and I want to squeeze another 2 years out of it.
Thanks
This isn't meant to be an insult, but I've seen it happen before, so bear with me...
Do you have the power window switches "locked"? If they are locked, only the driver's window will work, but the other three will not respond. It's just a thought. For your sake, I really hope this is your problem!
Thanks for the response. I am still confused why not to use synthetic oil. I use 5W-30 Valvoline maxlife full syn. Is there a concern. If there is please let me know i would not use any more of that thank you.
If using synthetic makes you happy and eases your mind, and isn't too hard on your wallet, I say go for it! No concern from me.
Hope everyone had a great holiday. It's back to the grind tomorrow!
I'm hoping that since my father filled up the car on Thursday night, and the light came on when I cranked it Friday morning, that the CEL was from the gas cap maybe not being on tight enough (dad doesn't remember how many clicks he did). After I cranked the car, I opened the gas flap and clicked the cap 4 more times. This was Friday morning.
Fast forward to now
I have driven the car every day since then, including driving it today. I have covered about 175 miles, and probably cranked the car 8 to 10 times since the CEL came on. It remains lit.
Has it been enough time passed if in fact it was the gas cap? The car has no other sypmtoms, and when I called the service tech, he said to drive it a few days since it had no symptoms.
I'm thinking it needs to go to get the code read now, but wanted some other opinions.
How long does it take for the CEL to go off after re-sealing the gas cap?
Places I have Checked
Dads expedition
Bank
Pants pockets
room/home
In the honda
book bag
Any tips to finding them or getting a cheap(but quality) alarm transponder. replacement will be appreciated. I can explain my story in detail if nessacery. On a silver belt clip with 3 keys, transponder. with two circular buttons and a honda key.
-Cj (From here on out, I'm keeping tags with my name and # on my keys!) I miss driving
maybe you didn't loose them, but your subconscious doesn't want you driving. :shades:
I agree with you, grad. I want to take it in.
Cant wait to find... err them to find me!!
-Cj
Turns out, it was the Oxygen sensor. Goodwill replacement by Honda even though the recall-issued warranty had expired. (14 year, 150,000 mile warranty on all aspects of the emissions system).
The bad O2 sensor showed me a 3 MPG drop in this last tank; only 25 MPG where I usually average 28.
I'll be due for a new timing belt/water pump at 180k. Eww.
by the way does any one know about the 1994 honda accord lx with abs models having the rotors being bolted on to the bearings or something? i have heard numerous things about it.