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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • Hello.. since no one responded to my other one.. maybe you will have fun with this . might be more of challenge.. my brakes tend to not work sometimes.. it will go straight back.. oh.. 1994 Honda Accord 4D Sedan.. anyways.. this is becoming a very annoying thing cause i dont want to run into the person infront of me.. my brakes are fine and dont need a replacement so what can i do..
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    COuld you explain in more detail? Does the pedal just go to the floor? Details will help determine the issue.
  • well.. every once in a while the car doesn't want to break.. you are usually able to stop in seconds but my car doesn't. i would have to let go and retry to stop so it will stop. sometimes that doesn't even work. it breaks but very slowly.. if i were to have to do a sudden stop i would never make it ..... uhm.. what else? did that help?
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    I don't know how much of a response you are gonna get from the boards on this anyway. Usually with a problem as serious as that the first/best advice is to take your car to a trusted mechanic's shop immediately. There may be a leak in the line, problem with the booster, MC, etc.

    This is a diagnosis that should be made immediately, driving with a problem like that is foolhardy.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Get to a shop, and quickly...but it sounds like you have a serious leak in the brake line/master cylinder...I wouldn't drive the car anywhere BUT to the mechanic.
  • I recently bought a 1997 Accord. Love it, but when driving it the other day we heard a noise and when we got out to look the driver side headlight casing and the bumper seem to have broke. Looks like somesort of clip has broken off. Is this something that has happened to anyone else? Thanks. :confuse:
  • mrgold35mrgold35 Posts: 73
    Does it feel like your stopping the car on ice? Every once in a while my 97 Accord with +155K on same rotor/drums would feel like that but only on 10% of emergency stops. I could not duplicate the same results in non emergency stops on a side road. Everything felt normal for regular stops. I have not had this problem reoccur after getting my brake pads replaced at the Honda dealership 6 months ago. I had Brake Master Pads on the car previously.
  • Hi i just purchased a 97 honda accord ex (v6) and as i started driving it i realized something was wrong with the brakes. As i was breakin and id be almost at a stop the break peddle would kick back up and the brakes would make a noise. Now i check the drums, rotors, pads, all are in great condition and recently changed.... can anyone help me with this problem?
  • Hi, i have a 97 accrd ex v6 and i realized when i would accelerate the switching of gears was rough. The car would jerk for a second then it would kick into the next gear.. what would cause this problem..? (my car is an automatic)

    Another problem i am encountering is that my car is running in higher rpms then it should, it shoots all the way past 4000 STILL BEING IN FIRST GEAR! Then sometimes the rpm meter would just stop working. Is this the meter or is something wrong with my trans?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Well, can you audibly hear that the car is revving to such high (4,000+) RPMs when the tachometer (the "RPM meter" is a tachometer) says it is revving high, or is it reading falsely? With the "jerking" you talk about it sound more like a transmission issue. Have you paid attention to the "D4" indicator light? Does it ever blink? If it does, you have a problem with your transmission.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hey folks. I have a 1996 Automatic Accord, and the light that makes the PRND4,D3,2,1 Light up on the center console is out... is this an easy fix? The indicator on my instrument panel works, so it isn't completely necessary that I fix this light, but if it's not hard to do, I'd like to have it done. Any suggestions?
  • Hey Man,
    I cannot say if you have a definate problem or not with the tranny, however I do know that some Honda automatic tranmissions tend to act weird sometimes as you are experiencing. My family has a '96 civic and it has a hard time with second and third gear, it will shift into third, and then downshift into second for no apparant reason, kick up to about 4000 RPM, and then shift again at like 4500 or 5000. It will also hesitate a lot in 4th on the highway when the AC is on. I have talked with some third-party mechanics and they have told me a lot of people report the same type of problems with the honda auto transmissions on the sedans. It isnt anything that will cause the tranmission to lose life, its more just an issue of inconvenience.

    I am not sure what the gauge problem would be related to. Maybe a circuit that has shorted somewhere?? I have not experienced this problem before.

    Personally I can not stand this little querk about the civic that I have been driving. So when I was looking for my used 97 used accord, I decided to get the 5sp man trans.--you get the benefits of being able to shift when you want, and you get an extra gear, which means better fuel economy.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 707
    A. How many miles you have on the odometer?
    B. When was the transmission last flushed?

    Honda transmissions are known for being "peculiar"... And they MUST be flushed (not changed, but flushed) every 35,000 (or maybe 50,000, not sure) and you must fill it up with only original Honda transmission fluid.

    If the car has less than 150,000 miles, it MAY be covered under this Honda special extended warranty discussed here before, which also covers some issues with the transmission's behavior.
  • dballdball Posts: 15
    The odometer and trip meter on my 96 accord has stopped working. Speedometer and tach are fine. Any thoughts?
  • mrgold35mrgold35 Posts: 73
    Try this web site to see if it helps. You can leave it alone and fix it when you sell the car :P
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    I have the standard accord tires (P205/60 R 15) and one of the tires look a little low. What is the recommended tire pressure? I'm guessing 25 PSI but don't want to chance it.

    -Cj :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    What is the recommended tire pressure? I'm guessing 25 PSI but don't want to chance it.

    Check your door panel, but every Accord I've had has been 32 PSI Reccomended, with a maximum of 35 PSI. 25 is much too low, I believe. Your mileage should greatly improve, as should your tire wear, when you increase them into the 30s. (Again, check the door-jamb for definitive answers on reccommended pressure, but the 185/65 15 tires on my Accord LX and the 205/65 16s on my 2006 EX Accord both reccommend 32 PSI.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    You need to provide more information.
    - Is your brake system loosing fluid? Is the fluid level changing?
    - Sounds silly but check if the fluid container is correctly closed.
    - With the car engine off. Press the pedal..does it slowly goes all the way down or does it stops before?. If you keep pressing the brake after you pump it several times..does the stopping position of the pedal changes compare when pressing it without pumping.
    - While stepping onto your pedal, turn on the engine. Usually the pedal should move about half distance to reaching the floor.
    - When was the last time you bleed your system. Or when was the last time you change the complete brake fluid?
    Driving in this conditions is too risky, specially if you are pumping the brakes when this problem shows up while driving (seems that you are doing that when u said "..retry to stop..") could get killed (or what is worst :) , somebody else killed), if you don't repair your brake system. Based on the few things you mentioned seems that your problem is in the master cylinder.
    Let us know if you were able to solve your problem and what exactly was the problem so others can learn.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    Angelbyrd, could you please let us know if you ever solve your problem? If yes, please post what you did.
    I'm having the same problem. My Car won't crank at all once in a while...

    Anybody; do you know if there is any component between the ignition switch and the starter. I'm wondering because when this problem shows up; I'm able to make my starter to work if I bridge it directly. Hope somebody could help. Thanks
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    in my accord, if the alarm is activated and you didn't start the car, it won't crank at all. Then i have to press the alarm button and all is well. Back in may, it really starteled me because it was raing (beyond cats and dogs) and it wounldn't start. I opened the door to exit and heard the alarm so i got back in and deactivated it. It started fine. Eventually i realized the alarm is a kill switch. My 12 year old car has tecnology our 04 explorer doesn't have....

  • seranikoseraniko Posts: 27
    temp goes high only when in heavy traffic, checked thermostat-ok, no oil-water mixing, cooling fan seems working, coolant flush @58k...any ideas?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I was going to suggest that cooling fan since it goes up in traffic. Anyway, run the heater when the car starts running hot, and turn off the A/C. This (running the heat) will pull heat out of the engine and help keep things cool in the engine room (although hot in the car!). Check on that fan; my 1996 Accord LX 4-cyl Auto had the cooling fan motor die at 135,000 miles approximately, so it is possible.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33 do u know your thermostat is ok, I mean, how did u rule it out? Have you check if your fan is being triggered at a temp. level below the middle of the car temp. meter (usually when it reaches a little above the first quarter of the meter)?
    Anyway, you need to make sure (check and rule out) the following (is better to use that order):
    - Leaks
    - radiator cap
    - fan (if it doesn't turn on, check fuse, the relay or the fan control module)
    - Check all coolant temp. switch:
    - Fan switch (should closed between 196 - 203 oF)
    - Coolant temp. gauge (the one that signals the meter in your console)
    - Coolant temp. sensor (which sends signals to your ECM)
    - water pump (maybe is not pumping with enough force...could be problems with its internal fins or maybe something else)
    - Radiator clogged.
    - Thermostat (Pellet type) (could be stuck semi-closed; which doesn't allow the coolant to flow freely into the engine).
    Hope this list helps you.
    Good Luck!
  • mrgold35mrgold35 Posts: 73
    I had a similar problem on my 97 Accord with 115K on the ODO. The temp would rise on very hot days in stop/go traffic and stop lights. Everything would be fine driving above 30 mph. I changed the coolant, thermostat, and checked the water pump and I still had the same problem. Eventually, Honda tech narrowed the problem down to the A/C electric fan not pushing/pulling enough air across the radiator when the car was stopped. The fan looked like it was running normally; but it was only about 70% of normal speed. Replaced the fan, no problems in 2 ½ years. :)
  • Strange one for everyone. Every once in a while when I need to move my Honda out of the garage for cleaning or whatever it runs for 30 - 45 seconds turn it off put it away and the next morning doesn't want to turn over. 104k miles new timing belt, new A/C, tuned to perfection. A honda "specilaist" mentioned a carbon problem when not allowed to warm up all the way. We did a thorough cleaning of the heads then 3 months later same thing. Anyone else having this issue? Suggestions. I can clutch start it if I get it going 5MPH.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    I guess I'm not sure when you refer to " of the heads..." what component are you referring to?..spark plugs?

    When it doesn't turn on; what exactly are the sounds? Are all the lights in the console coming on? do you hear the relays closing? what about the gas pump? does it crank at all? does this happens no matter if it is cold or warm?....we need more details in order to know if we can help you.
  • seranikoseraniko Posts: 27
    pulled out the thermostat and tested it...might be a problem of the cooling fan not kicking in at the right temp.
    any easy way to check this?
  • I meant carbon build up on the intake. Sorry for the mis communication. I had it towed to the Honda dealer 3 months ago when it first happened. They cleaned the carbon buildup off the intake. They mentioned it shouldn't happen anymore because the cleaning usually lasts years. Everything is charged up when I tried to start it last weekend. Lights worked, radio etc... just wouldn't crank. Had a distinct whine from the engine. This has only happened at a cold start. Running perfect now. Just worried this will happen again.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    Carbon build up in the intake could have impact in the quality of air (actually quantity of oxygen) that could reach your engine for later combustion. As you may know, low oxygen during combustion could cause the engine to misfire, idle problems or even the car dying after you drive it for sometime. But usually, Honda sensors and computer should be able to detect this by turning on the "check engine" light.....if you are able to pull out the codes; most of the times it will indicate where exactly is the problem (sensor problem, computer problem,etc).

    Now, as far as I know even if there is no oxygen at all; that shouldn't stop the starter to crank your engine... so I doubt that was the reason of the problem you are (or were =)) having.

    If your car doesn't crank at all then you have a electrical problem; now in your case seems to be random so it maybe some false contact somewhere (could be battery, ignition switch, main relay, or even a problem in the fuse box). Random problems are the most difficult to diagnose but not impossible. Usually mechanics, specially if they are not able to reproduce the problem will do whatever may help to improve the conditions but based only on whatever you told them. That is why it is very important to capture all the details about when the problem happened. A car that doesn't start is a too general description... but saying that the car doesn't crank at all then you can just focus in the ignition electrical circuit only.
    You could start checking the cables around your battery, check the charge and load of your battery (if you take it to autozone they will do it for free, call them to check)....if the problem is still happening I'll suggest to check your main relay (actually you don't need to buy a new one...I remember I have a link on how to do a maintenance of that relay but I need to look in what computer I have it).......Well...I hope all these info. helps you.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    The easiest way is to park your car outside (if it is hot and sunny will be better) and turn it on. Make sure the AC/Vent is off. Monitor your fan... it won't take more than 10 min. if the engine was still warm from a previous drive. As soon as the fan turns on, check the temp meter. If the temp is above the middle of the scale of the meter then you have a problem with the fan switch...but if the fan turns on, but the temp. continues to raise then you have a problem with the "force" of the fan, but it could also be the thermostat or the water pump.
    Hope this helps. Let us know what you found.
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